Touch & drag AF is much faster to pinpoint the eyes you need to focus on in single-point AF mode. It doesn't need to have a custom setup. Keeps it simple 😀
That assumes you are using the lcd screen. When I aam shooting weddings I am looking through the viewfinder. No touch and drag. Screen useless in bright sun.\
I love how fast you can switch from person to person with eye detect. I always struggled with the Sony A7R3 and A7R4 for groups of people, especially if they were on the move like a runway. the way I have it set up on my R5 is this. For the dial around the SET button, I have that set to the AF method so I can quickly switch back and forth between eye detect and spot AF. It also means I can go forward or backward depending on which way I turn the dial as opposed to having to cycle with multiple presses of a button. I move the aperture and shutter speed to the top dials. The control ring is for my ISO. I do miss the touch bar which I used for temperature. I have the touch and drag also enabled. I'm a left eye shooter and luckily with the R5 (versus my previous R), the viewfinder juts out farther from the body so you have more room to work. For a group of people, I start off with the eye AF. I focus on the person I want. If the camera chooses the wrong person, I start off by tapping the joystick in a direction to quickly switch the eye from person to person (also great for switching focus from left eye to right eye and vice versa). If it doesn't allow me to go to the desired person (like the 3 person example in the video), I use my right thumb to drag the orange reticle to the desired person and then let go. that should move the eye af to the correct person. if the eye AF fails to grab the right person after all that, I rotate the dial to spot AF and then touch and drag the spot square to the desired person. just a different way to be quick.
I have a very similar setup, but since I am also using a Samyang AF85mm 1.4 RF that doesn't feature a control ring I changed things a bit around: Backdial is ISO, AF On starts tracking, asterisk button switches between Servo and One Shot and the AF field button cycles between the different AF methods, as does the control ring if I am using a lens with one.
Thanks Michael, your settings are a huge help for a new R5 user. I’ve been shooting Canon for over 20 years, the R5 requires considerable trial and error compared to my 5D IV’s. Until I found your tutorial I was very frustrated, now I’m beginning to gain confidence.
Well, I don't understand why you would remove AF function from the shutter release button and then assign so many function to the other buttons. There is much easier and quicker way to do this. Leave you Shutter button on default mode (AF and metering). In Menu set Servo and AF+ Tracking. Then set eye detection to On. The go the Customise buttons menu and go the AF-On button. While first action for this AF-On is highlighted (which is AF start and metering) hit Info button and you will be in a special setting menu. Now select type of AF (servo or One shot) which ever you prefer, then select method for AF (lets say One point) and you done. By doing this, you will have your standard AF and eye detection on your Shutter button, but if for some reason you need this single box to have your focus on, you just press AF-On and you get to the preselected Servo or One shot mode + the single point focus or whatever you selected. You can do the same settings for the Star button and select different settings. By the way, to make sure you have a little square on your screen in AF eye tracking , in AF menu which is Pink, on page 5 you need to choose 1st option, not the second. After this you can easily point out this little box to any person, then half press your shutter button and you have eye detection on that person or similar you can focus on any subject. If this is not enough and you struggle to focus, press AF-On and then it goes to the preselected AF point type and AF method. Easy and covers everything which you described. Removing AF from the shutter button and use only back buttons for different type of focusing was ok on older cameras, but now you have much flexible customisation and I don't get why you would continue to use awkward old style when you need to press 2 buttons all the time to make a single shot.
I have set up my R5 based on your outline above and I cannot thank you enough. This works great! I just got an R3 and wondering if you would have an outline for that camera as well? Thank you.
@@lovedogandco.7138 I am glad to see my comment helped you. Congratulations on your purchase! R3 is a great camera! Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to try R3, so I don't know if AF system is the same as in R3, but I assume it would be very similar to R5 in terms of customisation.
Switching from my Sony A7r4 to the Canon R5, face prioritizing is literally the ONLY feature that I miss about that system. This is a great workaround that I don’t mind getting used to. Thanks for the tip!
One year later, are you happy you made the switch? I second shoot for a Sony user and I always find the way he explains the face prioritizing on his A7 iv to be wayyyy smoother to the point where he doesn't need a back up mode for when it doesn't work properly.
I have it set up similar but my back button focus is eye detect with servo. Press info on the custom button setup and set the type of focus mode for it. My front shutter butter is one shot. Best of both worlds.
This sounds like another great setup. Just want to make sure I understand - so your shutter is set to Metering and AF start? And in pink menu 1 > set to One Shot AF? And then you set up the AF-ON button to AF-ON > Info > Servo > Face Tracking? Since your shutter is set to Metering and AF Start does pressing the AF-ON button take precedence of the focusing when firing the shot?
Right off, thank you for how you introduce your video with "good morning, ladies and gentlemen." I get so tired of "hey guys what's up." Classy and traditional! Nice!
Excellent. This is the solution. Having the the ability to pick any face amongst faces in servo while still being able to switch right over to old school single point non-servo focus pick, hold and frame method. Not a fan of touch & drag as it is slow and imprecise. This was the droid I was looking for.
8:35 Simply switch the AF mode to the first option (using DOF button), to :-) tracking square, and you'll have a wider focus area that will allow you to recompose and keep focus on the point you selected. In SERVO. So fit for wide open lenses as well. This way you don't need to reconfigure the cluster selection button, you don't need to toggle ONE SHOT/SERVO. It's all done with the changes you described leading up to 8:42 ;-) Problem solved. Great video!
We've got it set similarly - AI servo, Eye detection by default and initial point for Servo (middle option). I just hate when there is no box on the screen and without the box, you can't focus on anything else than eyes. Well, unless you use touch screen, but not so with joystick. Of course, for one point focus, I don't like servo, as I want to focus / recompose and keep the focus. So we have assigned AF-ON to just servo - one shot and there is imo no need to have separate button for eye focus on/off, as the basic AF + eyes focus mode with focus point displayed, covers the rest. And I don't like the need to hold down the button to have it focused to an eye. I would like if the focus box woul jump and stay there.
Can't you turn off focus for the shutter button, set AF-ON button to spot (or similar) and servo, and then just press and release AF-ON for simulate one shot mode? The focus will hold and you can recompose and shoot, then hit AF-ON again for next subject, and release, and shoot. So even though you are in servo it acts like one shot. ?? And, set asterisk button for eye detect focus if needed or desired?
Michael, I have a similar setup but you can have these setups without activating Servo on all of the time killing your battery or constantly trying to focus. The only caveat is you have to assign back button focus to the (AF-ON button). You can have Servo come on only when activating the star button which you assigned to (Auto eye focus). The steps are as follows; when you're in the AE LOCK Button (Star) setup as in your 2:36 minute mark in your video, Instead of assigning (eye detection AF) assign (Metering and AF Start) with that choice you have another option on the lower left side. It will show (INFO-DETAIL SET). Click INFO and you'll have three options: AF operation - set that to servo AF Method- set that to face tracking Servo AF Characteristics leave unchanged or the dash. Now you can leave the camera on (ONE SHOT AF) but as soon as you press the star button it will go into auto face tracking with servo enabled and face tracking enabled automatically because of the assigned buttons within the (Metering and AF Start options in the INFO-detail set Options). I have other cool setups to trigger between my 1-point AF and face tracking which I assigned to the selection button next to the Star button. For this to work you have to assign back button focus to the AF-ON button and remove focus from the shutter button. Hope this makes sense to anyone reading it. Feel free to ask any questions if it doesn't. This setup is really fast and gets you out of being in servo all of the time but in it when you need it with a push of a button.
@@MMaven I noticed that after reviewing the video. I noticed that you discuss Servo kicking in when focusing on the the subject at the 7:38 mark. To recompose can be an issue with servo as you mentioned. Your third option is the key. I guess we're in the similar setup but mine is a bit different and maybe you'd like to give it a try. I've become so fast with it that it all muscle memory at this point. 1. First I have back button focus set on AF-ON 2. My star button is set to Auto eye tracking 3. My selection button next to the star is set to 1-point AF or face tracking with eye detection. I've turned off all other selections. Once I click the selection button I can use my shutter wheel to select between only two points of focus, 1-point AF or face tracking with eye detection. This allows for those times when one can't get eye tracking or to focus on the subject because of tracking issues to quickly go into 1-point focus to easily select your subject and recompose and then back to servo and now you have tracking. 4. I set the DOF button to eye detection on and off. This way if I have trouble tracking the eye I can turn it off and track the face. This gives me four options. 1. Focus and recompose no tracking 2. Focus tracking with eye on. Servo is off and sets into ONE SHOT mode but Tracks eye. (White box) 3. Focus Tracking with eye on and servo on. Tracks eye and if subject coming towards you or away from you. (Blue dot) 4. DOF button turns on and off eye detection and turns both focus tracking into face detection tracking or subject tracking. It works really well for me. Let me know if you'd give it a try and see what you think. Thanks...Rick.
This is really good info. I have my 'big wheel' set up to roll back and forth between focus modes. I like being able to roll back and forth between modes rather than having to cycle through all of them to get back. I use my DOF button to toggle between EVF and LCD because I don't like the camera making that choice for me all the time, plus when shooting in a dark environment I don't want to annoy everyone around me when the camera decides to turn on the LCD screen.
I love this 2 back button setup. But when you are using the back buttons then you might as well go all the way to back button AF and remove AF from the shutter button. This way there is no need any more ever to switch to one shot mode and you can leave it in servo mode permanently. One bit of complexity removed.
Great video! I was 90% of the way there...it never occurred to me to reprogram the depth of field button. I already had the cluster square selector set to toggle between the various focusing points and I was using the M.Fn button with the Multi-Dial to switch between Servo and One Shot. Changing the DOF button to toggle between Servo and One Shot makes my “old” method even better. Thanks! Subbed!
Hi Michael, your videos are very helpful. I also do what you are suggesting but I use the initial point as the first one (tracking) and not the focus squares. I find this to be better for people shots. I also do not have the eye detect set to a special button then, as soon as I engage the back button to focus it looks for the closest eye to my focus square and if it seeing one the square jumps to that eye and locks on to recompose. I set my initial position of my focus square as top third centre so its quicker to find the eyes in your composition as this is where normally they will be. I toggle face tracking and single point focus point on the star button and if you back button focus, you don't need to set a button to one shot as this is what back button allows you to do with press and release in tracking servo. I use my depth of field button to magnify the image I have just taken and it magnifies to the area which I focused so I can very quickly check its sharp in the viewfinder without taking it from my eye. Its a big button so you can miss it!
Thank you! I've seen a lot of people/videos recommending this type of dual-mode AF set up with the AF-ON and * buttons but, whilst it works well, the addition of the customisations to the DoF preview and point select buttons is a killer and rounds it off superbly. I never use DoF anyway so it was always a dead button for me and the point select function is unnecessary once you can cycle them using the DoF button so using it for OneShotServo switching is handy.
Thank you Michael,. Yours are undoubtedly the Best! R-5 REAL WORLD set ups out there. Received my R5, 6 days ago. Had already viewed your 3 hour set up. Then your suggested Birds in Flight set up, which I put on C1. I added to C2 a very similar set up supplied by a local Pro Bird Photographer. I have had 3 outings since Sunday past and taken approx. 3000 images. I LOVE the camera. This morning my intention was to create settings for people and to include one shot. Your video here is exactly what I needed. Thank you :) I will further support you by purchasing your course. Keep up the great work, your material addresses the reality new users face and provides the solutions. My sincere thanks, JL
The DOF button is useless if you can't reach it, like myself and many women (and men) with smaller hands. I can't get anywhere near it unless I take my hand completely off the camera and I've never been able to reach it on any Canon DSLR / SLR I've ever owned for the last 30 years...
BRAVO. Sooooo very much useful information in such a short period of time. My apologies but two dumb questions (and I've rewatched more than a dozen times). *** After you register C1 settings around 5:10, what button are you using at 5:26 to get that "Manual exposure screen" to re-select C1? *** Second, starting at 5:40, why did you cover the lens before you hit the DOF button to cycle the focusing clusters to re-aquire the expanded cluster? THANKS!
great video, thanks a lot. The one thing i don't really like tbh is if, like you did, you switch "Initial Servo AF pt for..." to the middle option, when in tracking AF mode, you loose the ability to switch between eyes and/or faces. In other words it doesn't give you those arrows that show you you can use the knob to flick between eyes and people....does that make sense?
I like what you mentioned here these settings are nice. There's another alternative if you don't want to recompose and you use EVF to shoot. With eye on EVF you can touch on touch screen and select subject.
This is what I do. I’m seeing so many videos about reprogramming buttons but using the touch screen to put the focus right where you want it is a snap.
Hi, extremely impressive explanation and really useful but I could not find Initial servo AF point option in my R6ii menu options. Looked at all options in the purple menu. Am I missing something?
Thank you. 2 reasons: 1Tapping / though and drag can miss with eye detection, especially with foliage or vegetation 2- it creates extra steps, which we do not want in an organic, fun type of shoot. Best wishes!
Wow, I’ve watched quite a lot of R6/R5 tutorials, this is probably the smartest way to customize the focus controls. I have implemented your settings with minor differences (I like to keep the exposure lock on the * button), but again, these settings are amazing, they fix in fact every complexity I have found on this camera. Thanks for sharing.
I am a Sony User. Loved and love canon, but Eye af and AF focus area work sooooooo much easier than this..Eye Af works in every af focus area, and plus you don't have to put an actual button for that.. you just half press the shutter and/or the af button and the camera will see the eye automatically. Especially in Expand Area AF. I really just need to use the joystick to point which face and then half press the shutter.. I tried using an r6 from a colleague during a wedding cause I thought her camera could do the same and I was very confused by this entire method.
I think you skipped over the FV mode too quickly! I've been almost always an AV shooter with my trusted 5D3, but am loving this useful new mode. It's a definite step up.
At 5:02 you were in Custom Modes and you mentioned that this setting may be for "Portrait" mode... I don't know if I stumbled on something based on the way mine is set up, but both of my original R cams and the R5 save Photo and Video Custom Modes independently. I have unique C1-C3 in both Stills and Video. When I first got my R5 I was livid, thinking they broke that, but it is the same. I just had to jump through fire hoops to get it done.
Thanks for this. As I slowly learn how to use this R6 I am struck by how good the interface is, and how many possibilities there are for personalized set ups. This particular set up is not for me. I want a simple focus system. Also, I want that depth of field view available somehow. Especially in the situation where I am trying to focus a group of people. Depth of field is critical in that situation. Lord photography is interesting and fun. Question - am I correct that in servo mode, if shooting stills, and if set up for typical dual back button focus with the shutter button decoupled from auto focus, you could grab focus on one spot (a face or other spot), by pressing AF-ON, then release the button, and then recompose? The camera will hold the focus point when you release? Doesn't this solve the issue raised? Or am I missing something?
Another great video I already set up the R6 like in your bird setting video really helps will try this one too I have an issue with trying to get shots of airplane# at high altitudes with the 800 f11 where it just won’t focus on it at all so going to try some wider expanded area focus options see if that helps
Michael have you done a video on how to do quick hybrid work on the R6. I just watched a R6 Z6 comparison video from Taylor Jackson that said its a bit tricky on the R6.
This is good, solid information and I've used it to set up both my R5 and R6. I'm wondering if anyone has come up with a quick way (another customized button assignment) to toggle between people and animals for eye autofocus.
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Hey, nice and helpful video. I have a question because I maybe want to go the R6. But I shoot a lot of self portraits. I have a perfekt workaround that you can make photos from yourself without having a phone or a trigger in the hand. I use it in my canon 6D for this. I use magic lantern and the implemented time laps function and the following autofocus, that always the middle focus point will focus on me, in every new single shot. My question to you... is it possible with the R5/R6 to do that? That you use the time laps function and use the eye detection autofocus that every shot is perfect in focus on my eye no matter where I am are in the frame? If this is possible I would immediately change from the 6D to the R6. Could you test this for me and when it is possible, could you do a video how it works or answer me with a comment? Best regards from Germany 😊🙏
By the way @Michael The Maven. I've been purchasing your classes on Canon Cameras for years including the Canon EX speedlite series from the 580's to the 600 EXRT's. I've been using Profoto for a while now but those Canon speedlites were awesome, especially the 600's. You helped me a lot! Thanks.
Hi Michael, I can see that this is possible on the R6, BUT is this possible on the R6 MKII which I have, as I don't seem to have the menu at 3.26 showing AF sub category 5 showing Initial Servo AF pt for (with the smily face after it. Much appreciated in advance
Thanks for this helpfull video! When i use this customized buttons on C1, can i set up different customized buttons on C2 for example when i shoot sports and switch back when i shoot portrait or something?
Hello! What's the difference between (under custom buttons) setting your AF-ON button to "Eye Detection AF" vs. setting it to "Metering & AF Start", with the AF Method set to Face+Tracking under the "Info" button? It feels like both perform the same function. Thanks!!!
Amazing video - thank you for sharing! It might be me a bit slow but I have watched this a few times and when it comes to the actual demonstration of what is all bout (around 6:38) - I actually don't get it🙈🤷♀️ What exactly do you do? I mean, I get it that it's all about changing focus mode between eye detection and single points. But I actually don't get exactly what to do... (sorry - your explanation seems so thorough so it might just be me...🤣) Something else: I have (like you) saved these settings as my Custom shooting mode C1 (at 5:21). But I can't figure out how I can see that I am in C1 (or change it - is that only on tops dial button for mode?)? At 5:28 it seems you just hit the Q button, but I don't get the same menu like you do. How can I change this? Thanks a lot in advance 🙏🏻
Hello Michael. Great content as usual. Regarding the switch between servo and single for recomposing: it looks like you have AF Start turned on for the shutter button half press. Is there an advantage that I'm overlooking vs. turning that off, pressing BBF (regular focus) releasing BBF and recomposing? Thank you!
BBF only has an advantage with servo for recomposing because it allows us to skip the focusing when it a halfway shutter button depression is pressed, It’s better for a different kind of shooting. In this example I decided to demonstrate with a F on so you can see exactly what I was doing but it would work just the same with a halfway shutter button depression
Is it possible to have the camera auto adjust aperture to get all eyes in the scene in focus? For example if I'm at 1.8 but only one subjects eye is in focus, have the camera auto bump it up to say 2.5 to get both subjects?
Very nice, thank you. How about video? I do not own R6/R5 but just wondering if AF does not jump between people during filming and if that can be locked on particular person...
The focusing systems for video are a little bit different and I think it’s just easier to tap on a persons face-if that’s engaged with your tracking mode it’s pretty good most of the time as long as you have a large enough target-you can select different faces by tapping or you’re pushing on the joystick
I use back button focus for the demonstrations which i agree is very fast when eye detection fails. The issue with the last tip has more to do with someone wanting to get focus lock and recompose, which cannot be done with servo. All tips are given with the idea is the user will do what works best for them. Thanks!
Touch & drag AF is much faster to pinpoint the eyes you need to focus on in single-point AF mode. It doesn't need to have a custom setup. Keeps it simple 😀
It actually isn't. Here is why: you have created a series of additional steps...between every shot. Much less efficient. Best wishes!
That assumes you are using the lcd screen. When I aam shooting weddings I am looking through the viewfinder. No touch and drag. Screen useless in bright sun.\
I love how fast you can switch from person to person with eye detect. I always struggled with the Sony A7R3 and A7R4 for groups of people, especially if they were on the move like a runway. the way I have it set up on my R5 is this. For the dial around the SET button, I have that set to the AF method so I can quickly switch back and forth between eye detect and spot AF. It also means I can go forward or backward depending on which way I turn the dial as opposed to having to cycle with multiple presses of a button. I move the aperture and shutter speed to the top dials. The control ring is for my ISO. I do miss the touch bar which I used for temperature. I have the touch and drag also enabled. I'm a left eye shooter and luckily with the R5 (versus my previous R), the viewfinder juts out farther from the body so you have more room to work. For a group of people, I start off with the eye AF. I focus on the person I want. If the camera chooses the wrong person, I start off by tapping the joystick in a direction to quickly switch the eye from person to person (also great for switching focus from left eye to right eye and vice versa). If it doesn't allow me to go to the desired person (like the 3 person example in the video), I use my right thumb to drag the orange reticle to the desired person and then let go. that should move the eye af to the correct person. if the eye AF fails to grab the right person after all that, I rotate the dial to spot AF and then touch and drag the spot square to the desired person. just a different way to be quick.
I have a very similar setup, but since I am also using a Samyang AF85mm 1.4 RF that doesn't feature a control ring I changed things a bit around: Backdial is ISO, AF On starts tracking, asterisk button switches between Servo and One Shot and the AF field button cycles between the different AF methods, as does the control ring if I am using a lens with one.
Thanks Michael, your settings are a huge help for a new R5 user. I’ve been shooting Canon for over 20 years, the R5 requires considerable trial and error compared to my 5D IV’s. Until I found your tutorial I was very frustrated, now I’m beginning to gain confidence.
Well, I don't understand why you would remove AF function from the shutter release button and then assign so many function to the other buttons. There is much easier and quicker way to do this. Leave you Shutter button on default mode (AF and metering). In Menu set Servo and AF+ Tracking. Then set eye detection to On. The go the Customise buttons menu and go the AF-On button. While first action for this AF-On is highlighted (which is AF start and metering) hit Info button and you will be in a special setting menu. Now select type of AF (servo or One shot) which ever you prefer, then select method for AF (lets say One point) and you done. By doing this, you will have your standard AF and eye detection on your Shutter button, but if for some reason you need this single box to have your focus on, you just press AF-On and you get to the preselected Servo or One shot mode + the single point focus or whatever you selected. You can do the same settings for the Star button and select different settings. By the way, to make sure you have a little square on your screen in AF eye tracking , in AF menu which is Pink, on page 5 you need to choose 1st option, not the second. After this you can easily point out this little box to any person, then half press your shutter button and you have eye detection on that person or similar you can focus on any subject. If this is not enough and you struggle to focus, press AF-On and then it goes to the preselected AF point type and AF method. Easy and covers everything which you described. Removing AF from the shutter button and use only back buttons for different type of focusing was ok on older cameras, but now you have much flexible customisation and I don't get why you would continue to use awkward old style when you need to press 2 buttons all the time to make a single shot.
I have set up my R5 based on your outline above and I cannot thank you enough. This works great! I just got an R3 and wondering if you would have an outline for that camera as well? Thank you.
@@lovedogandco.7138 I am glad to see my comment helped you. Congratulations on your purchase! R3 is a great camera! Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to try R3, so I don't know if AF system is the same as in R3, but I assume it would be very similar to R5 in terms of customisation.
Thank you for this! That Initial Servo AF point change is making all the difference and this is the first video I've seen about it.
Switching from my Sony A7r4 to the Canon R5, face prioritizing is literally the ONLY feature that I miss about that system. This is a great workaround that I don’t mind getting used to. Thanks for the tip!
One year later, are you happy you made the switch? I second shoot for a Sony user and I always find the way he explains the face prioritizing on his A7 iv to be wayyyy smoother to the point where he doesn't need a back up mode for when it doesn't work properly.
This is what I have been looking for in switching eye detection. I just got the Canon R6M2. Thank you.
This is priceless hint which I couldn't find it anywhere ... Thanks Michael ... very much appreciated ... cheers
I have it set up similar but my back button focus is eye detect with servo. Press info on the custom button setup and set the type of focus mode for it. My front shutter butter is one shot. Best of both worlds.
This sounds like another great setup.
Just want to make sure I understand - so your shutter is set to Metering and AF start? And in pink menu 1 > set to One Shot AF? And then you set up the AF-ON button to AF-ON > Info > Servo > Face Tracking? Since your shutter is set to Metering and AF Start does pressing the AF-ON button take precedence of the focusing when firing the shot?
Right off, thank you for how you introduce your video with "good morning, ladies and gentlemen." I get so tired of "hey guys what's up." Classy and traditional! Nice!
Excellent. This is the solution. Having the the ability to pick any face amongst faces in servo while still being able to switch right over to old school single point non-servo focus pick, hold and frame method. Not a fan of touch & drag as it is slow and imprecise. This was the droid I was looking for.
8:35 Simply switch the AF mode to the first option (using DOF button), to :-) tracking square, and you'll have a wider focus area that will allow you to recompose and keep focus on the point you selected. In SERVO. So fit for wide open lenses as well.
This way you don't need to reconfigure the cluster selection button, you don't need to toggle ONE SHOT/SERVO. It's all done with the changes you described leading up to 8:42 ;-)
Problem solved.
Great video!
We've got it set similarly - AI servo, Eye detection by default and initial point for Servo (middle option). I just hate when there is no box on the screen and without the box, you can't focus on anything else than eyes. Well, unless you use touch screen, but not so with joystick. Of course, for one point focus, I don't like servo, as I want to focus / recompose and keep the focus. So we have assigned AF-ON to just servo - one shot and there is imo no need to have separate button for eye focus on/off, as the basic AF + eyes focus mode with focus point displayed, covers the rest. And I don't like the need to hold down the button to have it focused to an eye. I would like if the focus box woul jump and stay there.
Can't you turn off focus for the shutter button, set AF-ON button to spot (or similar) and servo, and then just press and release AF-ON for simulate one shot mode? The focus will hold and you can recompose and shoot, then hit AF-ON again for next subject, and release, and shoot. So even though you are in servo it acts like one shot. ?? And, set asterisk button for eye detect focus if needed or desired?
Michael, I have a similar setup but you can have these setups without activating Servo on all of the time killing your battery or constantly trying to focus. The only caveat is you have to assign back button focus to the (AF-ON button).
You can have Servo come on only when activating the star button which you assigned to (Auto eye focus).
The steps are as follows; when you're in the AE LOCK Button (Star) setup as in your 2:36 minute mark in your video, Instead of assigning (eye detection AF) assign (Metering and AF Start) with that choice you have another option on the lower left side. It will show (INFO-DETAIL SET). Click INFO and you'll have three options:
AF operation - set that to servo
AF Method- set that to face tracking
Servo AF Characteristics leave unchanged or the dash.
Now you can leave the camera on (ONE SHOT AF) but as soon as you press the star button it will go into auto face tracking with servo enabled and face tracking enabled automatically because of the assigned buttons within the (Metering and AF Start options in the INFO-detail set Options).
I have other cool setups to trigger between my 1-point AF and face tracking which I assigned to the selection button next to the Star button. For this to work you have to assign back button focus to the AF-ON button and remove focus from the shutter button.
Hope this makes sense to anyone reading it. Feel free to ask any questions if it doesn't. This setup is really fast and gets you out of being in servo all of the time but in it when you need it with a push of a button.
In my setup, servo is only activated when focusing is engaged.
@@MMaven I noticed that after reviewing the video. I noticed that you discuss Servo kicking in when focusing on the the subject at the 7:38 mark. To recompose can be an issue with servo as you mentioned. Your third option is the key. I guess we're in the similar setup but mine is a bit different and maybe you'd like to give it a try. I've become so fast with it that it all muscle memory at this point.
1. First I have back button focus set on AF-ON
2. My star button is set to Auto eye tracking
3. My selection button next to the star is set to 1-point AF or face tracking with eye detection. I've turned off all other selections. Once I click the selection button I can use my shutter wheel to select between only two points of focus, 1-point AF or face tracking with eye detection. This allows for those times when one can't get eye tracking or to focus on the subject because of tracking issues to quickly go into 1-point focus to easily select your subject and recompose and then back to servo and now you have tracking.
4. I set the DOF button to eye detection on and off. This way if I have trouble tracking the eye I can turn it off and track the face.
This gives me four options.
1. Focus and recompose no tracking
2. Focus tracking with eye on. Servo is off and sets into ONE SHOT mode but Tracks eye. (White box)
3. Focus Tracking with eye on and servo on. Tracks eye and if subject coming towards you or away from you. (Blue dot)
4. DOF button turns on and off eye detection and turns both focus tracking into face detection tracking or subject tracking.
It works really well for me. Let me know if you'd give it a try and see what you think.
Thanks...Rick.
You can also activate the back of the screen to move the eye focus where you want it.
This is really good info. I have my 'big wheel' set up to roll back and forth between focus modes. I like being able to roll back and forth between modes rather than having to cycle through all of them to get back. I use my DOF button to toggle between EVF and LCD because I don't like the camera making that choice for me all the time, plus when shooting in a dark environment I don't want to annoy everyone around me when the camera decides to turn on the LCD screen.
@9:45 why not just keep using AI servo and once you achieve focus let your hand off the af back button, recompose then click the shutter?
I agree, this is one of the benefits of back button focus
I love this 2 back button setup. But when you are using the back buttons then you might as well go all the way to back button AF and remove AF from the shutter button. This way there is no need any more ever to switch to one shot mode and you can leave it in servo mode permanently. One bit of complexity removed.
Great video! I was 90% of the way there...it never occurred to me to reprogram the depth of field button.
I already had the cluster square selector set to toggle between the various focusing points and I was using the M.Fn button with the Multi-Dial to switch between Servo and One Shot. Changing the DOF button to toggle between Servo and One Shot makes my “old” method even better. Thanks! Subbed!
Hi Michael, your videos are very helpful. I also do what you are suggesting but I use the initial point as the first one (tracking) and not the focus squares. I find this to be better for people shots. I also do not have the eye detect set to a special button then, as soon as I engage the back button to focus it looks for the closest eye to my focus square and if it seeing one the square jumps to that eye and locks on to recompose. I set my initial position of my focus square as top third centre so its quicker to find the eyes in your composition as this is where normally they will be. I toggle face tracking and single point focus point on the star button and if you back button focus, you don't need to set a button to one shot as this is what back button allows you to do with press and release in tracking servo. I use my depth of field button to magnify the image I have just taken and it magnifies to the area which I focused so I can very quickly check its sharp in the viewfinder without taking it from my eye. Its a big button so you can miss it!
Thank you! I've seen a lot of people/videos recommending this type of dual-mode AF set up with the AF-ON and * buttons but, whilst it works well, the addition of the customisations to the DoF preview and point select buttons is a killer and rounds it off superbly. I never use DoF anyway so it was always a dead button for me and the point select function is unnecessary once you can cycle them using the DoF button so using it for OneShotServo switching is handy.
Thank you Michael,. Yours are undoubtedly the Best! R-5 REAL WORLD set ups out there. Received my R5, 6 days ago. Had already viewed your 3 hour set up. Then your suggested Birds in Flight set up, which I put on C1. I added to C2 a very similar set up supplied by a local Pro Bird Photographer. I have had 3 outings since Sunday past and taken approx. 3000 images. I LOVE the camera. This morning my intention was to create settings for people and to include one shot. Your video here is exactly what I needed. Thank you :) I will further support you by purchasing your course. Keep up the great work, your material addresses the reality new users face and provides the solutions. My sincere thanks, JL
It does not work for me!
You can also deactivate AF on the shutter, so you only use the backbuttons to focus
Or both apparently :)
Thank you for this. Been using the r5 since release for wedding and events and just now realized I could do this.
The DOF button is useless if you can't reach it, like myself and many women (and men) with smaller hands. I can't get anywhere near it unless I take my hand completely off the camera and I've never been able to reach it on any Canon DSLR / SLR I've ever owned for the last 30 years...
Go lefty for DOF
I really like this approach. I'm going to create a custom mode and give this a try. Thank you for sharing this information.
Amazing tip! You've always been such a great teacher. I've learned tons from your DVDs and UA-cam vids over the years. Thank you!
This is the best way to setup.
BRAVO. Sooooo very much useful information in such a short period of time.
My apologies but two dumb questions (and I've rewatched more than a dozen times).
*** After you register C1 settings around 5:10, what button are you using at 5:26 to get that "Manual exposure screen" to re-select C1?
*** Second, starting at 5:40, why did you cover the lens before you hit the DOF button to cycle the focusing clusters to re-aquire the expanded cluster?
THANKS!
great video, thanks a lot. The one thing i don't really like tbh is if, like you did, you switch "Initial Servo AF pt for..." to the middle option, when in tracking AF mode, you loose the ability to switch between eyes and/or faces. In other words it doesn't give you those arrows that show you you can use the knob to flick between eyes and people....does that make sense?
Absolutely awesome - Thanks - new 1/2 of it but this just made my shooting sooo much better with more people in the scene 👏🏼👊🏻
Outstanding tutorial! I will tweak my settings. Thank you so much for sharing
I like what you mentioned here these settings are nice. There's another alternative if you don't want to recompose and you use EVF to shoot. With eye on EVF you can touch on touch screen and select subject.
This is what I do. I’m seeing so many videos about reprogramming buttons but using the touch screen to put the focus right where you want it is a snap.
@@victorcurtis6400 Bad for the big nosed people of this world lol
Hi, extremely impressive explanation and really useful but I could not find Initial servo AF point option in my R6ii menu options. Looked at all options in the purple menu. Am I missing something?
Im searching for it too!
This is great Michael but I think that I'll have to view this about ten times to 'get it" ! ha-ha
Don't feel bad, I've watched it twice already and I think after one more time I'll finally get it.
Great video, super helpful! Curious why at the end tapping the screen for focusing point isn't mentioned? Or touch and drag. Otherwise great!
Thank you. 2 reasons: 1Tapping / though and drag can miss with eye detection, especially with foliage or vegetation 2- it creates extra steps, which we do not want in an organic, fun type of shoot. Best wishes!
I just joined your Facebook group this week great group and lots of information
Thanks for the content Michael. Very helpful!
My pleasure! Just wanting to get some good tutorials out there that will help!
Wow, I’ve watched quite a lot of R6/R5 tutorials, this is probably the smartest way to customize the focus controls. I have implemented your settings with minor differences (I like to keep the exposure lock on the * button), but again, these settings are amazing, they fix in fact every complexity I have found on this camera. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! The eye detect shortcut is so good.
I am a Sony User. Loved and love canon, but Eye af and AF focus area work sooooooo much easier than this..Eye Af works in every af focus area, and plus you don't have to put an actual button for that.. you just half press the shutter and/or the af button and the camera will see the eye automatically. Especially in Expand Area AF. I really just need to use the joystick to point which face and then half press the shutter..
I tried using an r6 from a colleague during a wedding cause I thought her camera could do the same and I was very confused by this entire method.
Once again Michael, an awesome tutorial! Thank you very much!!!
Thank you Richard!
amazing explanation
Thank you for this video i was pondering how i was going to approach this conundrum!. I assigned the AF-ON button for the Eye Tracking feature :)
Great video👌🏾I have the eos r & the r6 .can I set my r up the same way
Hi Michael. This video is terrific. I learned so much. Thank you.
I think you skipped over the FV mode too quickly! I've been almost always an AV shooter with my trusted 5D3, but am loving this useful new mode. It's a definite step up.
Thank you so much Michael for the informative video! God bless and good luck!
Would the R10 have the capabilty to make these changes?
Many thanks!
At 5:02 you were in Custom Modes and you mentioned that this setting may be for "Portrait" mode... I don't know if I stumbled on something based on the way mine is set up, but both of my original R cams and the R5 save Photo and Video Custom Modes independently. I have unique C1-C3 in both Stills and Video. When I first got my R5 I was livid, thinking they broke that, but it is the same. I just had to jump through fire hoops to get it done.
Thanks for this. As I slowly learn how to use this R6 I am struck by how good the interface is, and how many possibilities there are for personalized set ups. This particular set up is not for me. I want a simple focus system. Also, I want that depth of field view available somehow. Especially in the situation where I am trying to focus a group of people. Depth of field is critical in that situation. Lord photography is interesting and fun. Question - am I correct that in servo mode, if shooting stills, and if set up for typical dual back button focus with the shutter button decoupled from auto focus, you could grab focus on one spot (a face or other spot), by pressing AF-ON, then release the button, and then recompose? The camera will hold the focus point when you release? Doesn't this solve the issue raised? Or am I missing something?
Another great video I already set up the R6 like in your bird setting video really helps will try this one too I have an issue with trying to get shots of airplane# at high altitudes with the 800 f11 where it just won’t focus on it at all so going to try some wider expanded area focus options see if that helps
Thank you so much. Brilliant tip. Love the video.
Michael have you done a video on how to do quick hybrid work on the R6. I just watched a R6 Z6 comparison video from Taylor Jackson that said its a bit tricky on the R6.
I saw Taylor's video about the R6 as well. I think it might be slightly limited compared to the R5 but it can still be done.
Michael have got a video with high ISO comparison between the R6 and R5?
This is good, solid information and I've used it to set up both my R5 and R6. I'm wondering if anyone has come up with a quick way (another customized button assignment) to toggle between people and animals for eye autofocus.
Hey, nice and helpful video. I have a question because I maybe want to go the R6. But I shoot a lot of self portraits. I have a perfekt workaround that you can make photos from yourself without having a phone or a trigger in the hand. I use it in my canon 6D for this. I use magic lantern and the implemented time laps function and the following autofocus, that always the middle focus point will focus on me, in every new single shot. My question to you... is it possible with the R5/R6 to do that? That you use the time laps function and use the eye detection autofocus that every shot is perfect in focus on my eye no matter where I am are in the frame? If this is possible I would immediately change from the 6D to the R6.
Could you test this for me and when it is possible, could you do a video how it works or answer me with a comment?
Best regards from Germany 😊🙏
So ALL these setting changes would ONLY be in your custom mode? I shoot a lot of wildlife and wouldn't want these settings for that.
By the way @Michael The Maven. I've been purchasing your classes on Canon Cameras for years including the Canon EX speedlite series from the 580's to the 600 EXRT's. I've been using Profoto for a while now but those Canon speedlites were awesome, especially the 600's. You helped me a lot! Thanks.
Thank you for your support!
Fantastic video. What is the difference between "spot Af" and "1 point" ??
Thank you so much Michael.
Good advice. Do not need this myself. But's its an elegant solution for sure.
I have my depth of field button as a customized button for slow motion video
when you 'managed your focusing square" at 7:56 how did you set thhat up to allow the joystick to do that? would love to add this..great video btw
and a little searching i found it..thanks
Where can I find the initial servo af pt for the R6 mkii... I can not find it in the menu.
Hi It’s really good explanation video keeps doing … 👏👏👏
Hi Michael, I can see that this is possible on the R6, BUT is this possible on the R6 MKII which I have, as I don't seem to have the menu at 3.26 showing AF sub category 5 showing Initial Servo AF pt for (with the smily face after it. Much appreciated in advance
Did you find a solution to this on the Mark II? I cannot find the Initial Servo AF pt in the menu either? Did you get an answer to this?
Thank you!
Works great for me on the R6. Good worklow, thx.
Best focus set up !!
Thanks for this helpfull video! When i use this customized buttons on C1, can i set up different customized buttons on C2 for example when i shoot sports and switch back when i shoot portrait or something?
does it have ITR AFFX i tracking auto focus recently got my first mirrorless R5C saw it in EOS R50
This is very useful. Thank you so much, Michael!
Thanks for the great tips/content , very helpful and well explained.
Brilliant!
Great info! Thank you for posting!
Hello! What's the difference between (under custom buttons) setting your AF-ON button to "Eye Detection AF" vs. setting it to "Metering & AF Start", with the AF Method set to Face+Tracking under the "Info" button? It feels like both perform the same function.
Thanks!!!
Awesome thanks
amazing thanks !!!!
tTHANK YOU SIR VERY USE FULL
Amazing video - thank you for sharing!
It might be me a bit slow but I have watched this a few times and when it comes to the actual demonstration of what is all bout (around 6:38) - I actually don't get it🙈🤷♀️ What exactly do you do? I mean, I get it that it's all about changing focus mode between eye detection and single points. But I actually don't get exactly what to do... (sorry - your explanation seems so thorough so it might just be me...🤣)
Something else: I have (like you) saved these settings as my Custom shooting mode C1 (at 5:21). But I can't figure out how I can see that I am in C1 (or change it - is that only on tops dial button for mode?)? At 5:28 it seems you just hit the Q button, but I don't get the same menu like you do. How can I change this? Thanks a lot in advance 🙏🏻
Excellent video! Thank you.
Hello Michael. Great content as usual. Regarding the switch between servo and single for recomposing: it looks like you have AF Start turned on for the shutter button half press. Is there an advantage that I'm overlooking vs. turning that off, pressing BBF (regular focus) releasing BBF and recomposing? Thank you!
BBF only has an advantage with servo for recomposing because it allows us to skip the focusing when it a halfway shutter button depression is pressed, It’s better for a different kind of shooting. In this example I decided to demonstrate with a F on so you can see exactly what I was doing but it would work just the same with a halfway shutter button depression
Is it possible to have the camera auto adjust aperture to get all eyes in the scene in focus? For example if I'm at 1.8 but only one subjects eye is in focus, have the camera auto bump it up to say 2.5 to get both subjects?
Omg that’s fantastic thank you 🙏
Very nice, thank you. How about video? I do not own R6/R5 but just wondering if AF does not jump between people during filming and if that can be locked on particular person...
The focusing systems for video are a little bit different and I think it’s just easier to tap on a persons face-if that’s engaged with your tracking mode it’s pretty good most of the time as long as you have a large enough target-you can select different faces by tapping or you’re pushing on the joystick
Usefull....thnku
So it wont automatically track the face?
Maven how does the R5 compares with the A9 I?
Amazing! Thank you
thanks a lot , that was so helpful 👌
Brilliant as always
Great instruction!
Thank you so much Michael!!
Is it possible to set this up on the R as well?
On the R6 I am not seeing the "Direct AF Method" to set the DOF preview button. I am using version 1.20
Thank you very much !
great video
The last trick is better solved by back button focus, which is even faster, isn't it ?
I use back button focus for the demonstrations which i agree is very fast when eye detection fails. The issue with the last tip has more to do with someone wanting to get focus lock and recompose, which cannot be done with servo. All tips are given with the idea is the user will do what works best for them. Thanks!
Great Michael, thx for the setup inspiration! :-)