On the active touch, I was also having a problem with my nose being in the way--then I realized that because I shoot with my left eye, I could move it to the left side and use my left thumb...total game changer and I love love love this feature!
Yep, it's another awesome feature in the camera. They really thought of everything and it's so customizable that everyone can find something to love about it I think.
Hi Pete, thanks for the video, I will share what I do and having had the an R5 and R6 from launch. The R5 can be set up a number of ways and it will depend on what you shoot the most. However as a wedding photographer, this is how I set mine up….The shutter button is set to spot focus and one shot and the back AF button is set to face and eye tracking in servo. The benefit is if I have a single person in my frame I use the back button and it nails focus every time….amazing as you say. But when there are more than one, and I want the person in the background to be sharp then I use the front button to pin point my focus on them and recompose or use the joy stick (for me recomposing is quicker). It is also clearly much better for taking pictures of when there is movement in the frame that you do not want the camera to jump focus to. Therefore you have all focusing methods available without having to change your camera set up every time. As a wedding photographer this is critical so that you do not miss critical moments that are happening around you. One last thing, I do not use any of the specific AF cases and use the Auto setting and it has never missed a beat in all senecios I shoot so no reason to change. I hope this was useful.
Thanks for sharing. The “none” selection under subject to detect instructs the camera to track all types of subjects instead of specifically animals, people, cars, etc. Helpful if you are shooting a variety of subjects, not just one particular category.
Hi, glad I stumbled across this. I've had an R5 for a year and always get messed up as I switch from subject to subject i.e. portraits to landscapes, architecture to people street photography etc ... flowers to sports. I seem to get the wrong auto focus settings. Odd things like shooting animals as humans and the reverse and all sorts if other mix ups. The classic is 50 identical shots out of focus of a single flower. The wall behind is of course in focus. Kept meaning to work it out and store settings in the C1,C2 custom etc... now at least I have a good guide for portraits. I can write C1 = Portraits in indelible ink on the back of my hand. Many thanks and happy new year.
Thanks for watching and I am glad it was helpful to you. I would also try the spot point or single point AF as sort of a "default" setting. In that mode, the camera will only focus on the point you select. I always go back to this if I feel like the camera is not focusing where I want it to.
great video, thanks a lot. The one thing i don't really like tbh is if, like you did, you switch "Initial Servo AF pt for..." to the middle option, when in tracking AF mode, you loose the ability to switch between eyes and/or faces. In other words it doesn't give you those arrows that show you you can use the knob to flick between eyes and people....does that make sense? is that not something you would miss when shooting multiple people? thanks
Great video, for me, only the Large Zone AF: Horizontal works the best. If I change that to one spot AF it's simply not focusing... (In my case it's aircrafts and military ships), I don't know why, I got the latest firmware and it still the same, you press the AF button and it's not focusing it's blur or You getting read square/frame in the camera... Thanks!
I usually use one of the wide modes especially if you are stopping down the lens. But if I want to really pinpoint a specific area in a scene I stay on single point and just move it to where I want the focus to lock.
Peter ... than so much for a great video - appreciate you posting. Although I understand more and more with each viewed video, however I am still confused on what AF settings to use for different situations. I know yours for portraits. Now ... what settings do you recommend for1) just plain landscapes or shooting flowers; 2) shooting wedding receptions of people who just want to be photographed; 3) high energy stage shows. Also ... I have a mental block on the tracking as I see the icon as face tracking = that throws me off when I am taking landscapes.
You must use a smaller aperture (ie a higher number). f/2.8 will give you a very shallow field of view, f/5.6 or f/8 will give you more depth in focus. Also, if you place subjects around the same place in the frame, instead of some very close to the camera and some very far away, this will help too.
Hi Pete. Newby here. I'm struggling with using my multi-purpose controller for AF. I've customized the button to use the controller for AF. Every time I press the controller (to center the icon on the back screen), an icon appears (looks like a screen with OFF written on the icon), and if I press it again, 'FACE SELECT OFF' shows up on the screen? What am I doing wrong? I've figured out the Touch and Drag AF but not the multi-controller option. Help!
You've got to go into the orange camera menu, "customize buttons," and then you can choose to set the AF joystick to whatever function you want. I have it set so that when I press it, it automatically goes to center. I can also just move it around to choose the focus point.
Thanks! I would keep it on eye focus for humans and just use an aperture that’s small enough to get everyone in focus if they are not on the same exact film plane. F/5.6 for instance.
I’m new to mirrorless and moved over from Nikon to Canon. Thank you for sharing this very specific settings menu! I used to use back button focusing with center focus lock. With the eye tracking and servo can I still use back button focus instead of the half depressed shutter button? Good idea or bad idea?
Sure, you can definitely do that. I know a lot of people love back button focus, but I prefer just using the shutter button. I think there is some personal preference in there so I would try both and see how you like it. You might want to use one method or the other depending on the subject too. Right now I am basically using tracking/servo mode for everything and it's awesome. Thanks for checking out the video and good luck with the new camera!
Hey Jagaat I used a mini HDMI to HDMI cable and plugged it into my BenQ monitor. You can do the same thing and output to TV and it should work with Mac, but not positive about that.
Hi Pete you don’t show how you get to the low speed continuous in the camera settings? You think I can find it 🤦♀️😂 I’m sure it’s looking me on the face. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The continuous is not part of the AF settings but in the Drive mode. Look for the square icon on the quick menu, and when you select it you can change it so it looks like a stack of papers. That's continuous! You can decide how fast the camera fires in the menu but I can't think of where that is off the top of my head.
How would you do this using the viewfinder? There is no facetracking option on the viewfinder, only the other ones, I'm getting so many blurry shots lol.
Need to ask. Is that the cheaper version of canons 85mm? Beacuse that's pretty old and from what I've seen not that sharp either. Do you take your portraits with that lens?
Hi Pete, how do I use AF face tracking + the canon remote? I am trying to take self portraits in some cases, and I am finding that I am still getting blurry shots when I have Servo AF, Face Tracking + Eye detection. I am not sure what is missing.
Hi Nicky! If the camera is set to AF with face tracking, it should do the job for you with the remote when you push the shutter down. Sometimes glasses can confuse the eye tracking so you might want to try with the eye tracking off and see what results you get. I don't have the Canon remote but I use the app ALL the time for self portraits and it works very well because you can see the image on your phone. Download the app and give it a try. It's a bit finicky but once it's connected it works well. You can also use the Interval timer and program the camera to fire off a # of shots for you. I like this method for selfies too. Some common things that can cause blurry photos are a shutter speed that's too slow, or if the camera doesn't have enough contrast to focus on you (like in a poorly lit room). Hope this helps!
I have used for the very first time my new R6 with and old prime lens, the canon 85mm f:1.8 by using Canon adapter and I was not able of using Servo tracking. Am I doing something wrong??
Hi Pete, great video, I am having a low ‘hit’ rate as you called it. Been shooting with it awhile and super frustrated. To many soft pics. Watched so many videos, etc. So you use your shutter button as AF and metering? Normal one shot-servo and than your AF-On is eye focus tracking? Correct? I also think my R6 underexposes and causes noise at low levels. I bought this camera for sports and loved it and now doing portrait and hate if cause of focus issues. Ugh any advice? I watched Rudy’s video from Canon on AF. Thanks
Hey Annette! I shoot in SERVO AF with eye tracking enabled. Regarding soft pics, that could also be subject movement or slow shutter speeds. It may not be the autofocus. If your R6 is underexposing, that's related to the way you're metering or the mode you are shooting in. There are a lot of variables that will effect the photos but if it works for sports it should work for portraits with no issue.
@@PeteCocoPhoto thanks for the response. I do manual mode. I have put it an auto ISO to see and still under exposed. I maybe low on SS.. I do 125 to try to keep the ISO down because it’s been awful. I use flash as well to help, it hasn’t. Lots of forums out there that noise is happening with low ISO. I see it at 400. I hit focus one out of three. What’s your drive mode and metering mode if you don’t mind me asking? I swear this all started when I updated the firmware at 1.6.
@@annettedahlke4742 Wow that's crazy! You should have no noise at ISO400. My typical headshot settings are 1/160, f/4, ISO100, but I use a tripod. If I handheld, I like to get 1/200 or even higher if I have continuous lighting to freeze my subject. At 1/125, you might get hand blur or motion blur on the subject. If you image is not exposed properly, you will get more noise/grain too so keep that in mind.
@@PeteCocoPhoto thanks, maybe the new software update will help. 🙄. Ok, thanks for your settings. I have been opening my pics on Canon’s DPP4 and than transferring them to LR. DPP4 handles R6 raw files better and can’t handle the noise LR shows. Thanks again!
Usually I leave the camera on front curtain for my portrait work, but if I'm out doing street photography or kid stuff I generally leave it on mechanical.
You've got some great videos here. One other very helpful recommendation I have received for the R5/R6 is to use the customize buttons settings to set the * button to face/eye detect autofocus. It's such a great tip. You can see the video here: ua-cam.com/video/kZXTn1i2A14/v-deo.html
Thank you for making it easy to understand
Glad it was helpful!
On the active touch, I was also having a problem with my nose being in the way--then I realized that because I shoot with my left eye, I could move it to the left side and use my left thumb...total game changer and I love love love this feature!
Yep, it's another awesome feature in the camera. They really thought of everything and it's so customizable that everyone can find something to love about it I think.
Hi Pete, thanks for the video, I will share what I do and having had the an R5 and R6 from launch. The R5 can be set up a number of ways and it will depend on what you shoot the most. However as a wedding photographer, this is how I set mine up….The shutter button is set to spot focus and one shot and the back AF button is set to face and eye tracking in servo. The benefit is if I have a single person in my frame I use the back button and it nails focus every time….amazing as you say. But when there are more than one, and I want the person in the background to be sharp then I use the front button to pin point my focus on them and recompose or use the joy stick (for me recomposing is quicker). It is also clearly much better for taking pictures of when there is movement in the frame that you do not want the camera to jump focus to. Therefore you have all focusing methods available without having to change your camera set up every time. As a wedding photographer this is critical so that you do not miss critical moments that are happening around you. One last thing, I do not use any of the specific AF cases and use the Auto setting and it has never missed a beat in all senecios I shoot so no reason to change. I hope this was useful.
Hey Stuart, this is awesome!! What a great setup, thank you for sharing and for checking out my video.
Thank you! Great idea!
Thank you for the great explanations. New to r5 from an old D6 ver1. You can imagine the confusion
Glad to help! There's definitely a learning curve but once you get it the camera is very well laid out.
Wonderful presentation ❤
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing. The “none” selection under subject to detect instructs the camera to track all types of subjects instead of specifically animals, people, cars, etc. Helpful if you are shooting a variety of subjects, not just one particular category.
Thank you! Good to know and appreciated very much.
Using one shot, enables you to focus, and repose
That’s how I used to shoot but the tracking is so good in afc with the r5 I don’t have to do that anymore
Best video explanation! Thank you so much!
Hi I'm from Belgium and my English is not that good, but I understood most of it ! Thank you so much for this amazing video!
Hi Mannau! Thanks so much for watching and I’m glad you enjoyed the video!!
Thanks Pete! I’m bookmarking this for when I get an R5, but very useful considerations for cameras that have some of these settings.
Thanks Nick! Glad it was helpful. R5 is such an amazing camera, you will love it instantly when you get it!
Hi, glad I stumbled across this. I've had an R5 for a year and always get messed up as I switch from subject to subject i.e. portraits to landscapes, architecture to people street photography etc ... flowers to sports. I seem to get the wrong auto focus settings. Odd things like shooting animals as humans and the reverse and all sorts if other mix ups. The classic is 50 identical shots out of focus of a single flower. The wall behind is of course in focus. Kept meaning to work it out and store settings in the C1,C2 custom etc... now at least I have a good guide for portraits. I can write C1 = Portraits in indelible ink on the back of my hand. Many thanks and happy new year.
Thanks for watching and I am glad it was helpful to you. I would also try the spot point or single point AF as sort of a "default" setting. In that mode, the camera will only focus on the point you select. I always go back to this if I feel like the camera is not focusing where I want it to.
great video, thanks a lot. The one thing i don't really like tbh is if, like you did, you switch "Initial Servo AF pt for..." to the middle option, when in tracking AF mode, you loose the ability to switch between eyes and/or faces. In other words it doesn't give you those arrows that show you you can use the knob to flick between eyes and people....does that make sense? is that not something you would miss when shooting multiple people? thanks
great point, thank you!
Great job, thanks sooooo much!
Glad it helped!
Awesome video!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, for me, only the Large Zone AF: Horizontal works the best.
If I change that to one spot AF it's simply not focusing... (In my case it's aircrafts and military ships),
I don't know why, I got the latest firmware and it still the same, you press the AF button and it's not focusing it's blur or
You getting read square/frame in the camera...
Thanks!
very helpful, thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks, new subscriber!
Thanks, Chip!
Pete Do you have any recommendation of setting for landscape Photography
I usually use one of the wide modes especially if you are stopping down the lens. But if I want to really pinpoint a specific area in a scene I stay on single point and just move it to where I want the focus to lock.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
No problem!
Thanks for the video. Do you know what happened to face tracking AF for the R6 Mark ii. I don't see that option anymore. Thanks.
No, I'm not sure but I would be surprised if it's not in there.
Peter ... than so much for a great video - appreciate you posting. Although I understand more and more with each viewed video, however I am still confused on what AF settings to use for different situations. I know yours for portraits. Now ... what settings do you recommend for1) just plain landscapes or shooting flowers; 2) shooting wedding receptions of people who just want to be photographed; 3) high energy stage shows. Also ... I have a mental block on the tracking as I see the icon as face tracking = that throws me off when I am taking landscapes.
Thanks Daniel! Let me know if you received my message.
When taking group photos how do you get everyone in focus?
You must use a smaller aperture (ie a higher number). f/2.8 will give you a very shallow field of view, f/5.6 or f/8 will give you more depth in focus. Also, if you place subjects around the same place in the frame, instead of some very close to the camera and some very far away, this will help too.
R6mkii is a bit different, I’m getting lost
The AF menu is very different? I would have figured the general modes are more or less the same.
Thumbs up for 'hit rate'. I didn't think that was something photographers said.
I don't know if I heard that from another photographer or not LOL but hey we are "shooters" haha
@@PeteCocoPhoto we also say headshot haha
@@bermuge1 true lol
Hi Pete. Newby here. I'm struggling with using my multi-purpose controller for AF. I've customized the button to use the controller for AF. Every time I press the controller (to center the icon on the back screen), an icon appears (looks like a screen with OFF written on the icon), and if I press it again, 'FACE SELECT OFF' shows up on the screen? What am I doing wrong? I've figured out the Touch and Drag AF but not the multi-controller option. Help!
You've got to go into the orange camera menu, "customize buttons," and then you can choose to set the AF joystick to whatever function you want. I have it set so that when I press it, it automatically goes to center. I can also just move it around to choose the focus point.
Great Video Pete. What AF mode would you use if you photographs humans with pets together?
Thanks! I would keep it on eye focus for humans and just use an aperture that’s small enough to get everyone in focus if they are not on the same exact film plane. F/5.6 for instance.
I’m new to mirrorless and moved over from Nikon to Canon. Thank you for sharing this very specific settings menu! I used to use back button focusing with center focus lock. With the eye tracking and servo can I still use back button focus instead of the half depressed shutter button? Good idea or bad idea?
Sure, you can definitely do that. I know a lot of people love back button focus, but I prefer just using the shutter button. I think there is some personal preference in there so I would try both and see how you like it. You might want to use one method or the other depending on the subject too. Right now I am basically using tracking/servo mode for everything and it's awesome. Thanks for checking out the video and good luck with the new camera!
Hi Pete. Thanks for your video. Question - How did you manage output menu to TV? Will you be able to do it to Mac as well instead of TV? If so, how?
Hey Jagaat I used a mini HDMI to HDMI cable and plugged it into my BenQ monitor. You can do the same thing and output to TV and it should work with Mac, but not positive about that.
Hi Pete you don’t show how you get to the low speed continuous in the camera settings? You think I can find it 🤦♀️😂 I’m sure it’s looking me on the face. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The continuous is not part of the AF settings but in the Drive mode. Look for the square icon on the quick menu, and when you select it you can change it so it looks like a stack of papers. That's continuous! You can decide how fast the camera fires in the menu but I can't think of where that is off the top of my head.
@@PeteCocoPhoto thanks Pete just got the camera and changed my settings to your recommendations 🥰 see how we go.
How would you do this using the viewfinder? There is no facetracking option on the viewfinder, only the other ones, I'm getting so many blurry shots lol.
Set subject tracking/eye AF on and it will do the trick!
Need to ask. Is that the cheaper version of canons 85mm? Beacuse that's pretty old and from what I've seen not that sharp either. Do you take your portraits with that lens?
The images in this vid were taken with a 50mm 1.4. I use that and a 70-200 2.8 (older non is version) for all of my portrait work.
Hi Pete, how do I use AF face tracking + the canon remote? I am trying to take self portraits in some cases, and I am finding that I am still getting blurry shots when I have Servo AF, Face Tracking + Eye detection. I am not sure what is missing.
Hi Nicky! If the camera is set to AF with face tracking, it should do the job for you with the remote when you push the shutter down. Sometimes glasses can confuse the eye tracking so you might want to try with the eye tracking off and see what results you get. I don't have the Canon remote but I use the app ALL the time for self portraits and it works very well because you can see the image on your phone. Download the app and give it a try. It's a bit finicky but once it's connected it works well. You can also use the Interval timer and program the camera to fire off a # of shots for you. I like this method for selfies too. Some common things that can cause blurry photos are a shutter speed that's too slow, or if the camera doesn't have enough contrast to focus on you (like in a poorly lit room). Hope this helps!
anything different on the Mark ii
I haven't tried it out yet but I would imagine the AF is going to be similar
I have used for the very first time my new R6 with and old prime lens, the canon 85mm f:1.8 by using Canon adapter and I was not able of using Servo tracking.
Am I doing something wrong??
Did you try another lens? It should definitely work. Make sure the switch on the lens is set to AF and that you are in the correct focusing mode.
Hi Pete, great video, I am having a low ‘hit’ rate as you called it. Been shooting with it awhile and super frustrated. To many soft pics. Watched so many videos, etc. So you use your shutter button as AF and metering? Normal one shot-servo and than your AF-On is eye focus tracking? Correct? I also think my R6 underexposes and causes noise at low levels. I bought this camera for sports and loved it and now doing portrait and hate if cause of focus issues. Ugh any advice? I watched Rudy’s video from Canon on AF. Thanks
Hey Annette! I shoot in SERVO AF with eye tracking enabled. Regarding soft pics, that could also be subject movement or slow shutter speeds. It may not be the autofocus. If your R6 is underexposing, that's related to the way you're metering or the mode you are shooting in. There are a lot of variables that will effect the photos but if it works for sports it should work for portraits with no issue.
@@PeteCocoPhoto thanks for the response. I do manual mode. I have put it an auto ISO to see and still under exposed. I maybe low on SS.. I do 125 to try to keep the ISO down because it’s been awful. I use flash as well to help, it hasn’t. Lots of forums out there that noise is happening with low ISO. I see it at 400. I hit focus one out of three. What’s your drive mode and metering mode if you don’t mind me asking? I swear this all started when I updated the firmware at 1.6.
@@annettedahlke4742 Wow that's crazy! You should have no noise at ISO400. My typical headshot settings are 1/160, f/4, ISO100, but I use a tripod. If I handheld, I like to get 1/200 or even higher if I have continuous lighting to freeze my subject. At 1/125, you might get hand blur or motion blur on the subject. If you image is not exposed properly, you will get more noise/grain too so keep that in mind.
@@PeteCocoPhoto thanks, maybe the new software update will help. 🙄. Ok, thanks for your settings. I have been opening my pics on Canon’s DPP4 and than transferring them to LR. DPP4 handles R6 raw files better and can’t handle the noise LR shows. Thanks again!
@@annettedahlke4742 Good luck!
Wondering if you use mechanical or front curtain? Electronic will give you 20 fps with your settings.
Usually I leave the camera on front curtain for my portrait work, but if I'm out doing street photography or kid stuff I generally leave it on mechanical.
@@PeteCocoPhoto Thank you!
You've got some great videos here. One other very helpful recommendation I have received for the R5/R6 is to use the customize buttons settings to set the * button to face/eye detect autofocus. It's such a great tip. You can see the video here: ua-cam.com/video/kZXTn1i2A14/v-deo.html
Thanks for the tip! Appreciate the link as well, David Bergman is awesome.