I usually just throw them in a glass mason jar submerged in rubbing alcohol.. and swirl them around for a few minutes, then blow dry them with compressed air. These RAW bearings are the best 👌
I used a very small flathead screwdriver (like you use to repair mobile phones) and popped cage out by pressing in between each BB on the 'open' cage side. To get the cage back on, lined up all the bearings sitting on top of the cage (also, v easy with aforementioned screwdriver), then picked it up and pressed cage down, worked around to where I started popping each bearing in. Very easyt. Thanks for this video, I've been skating since 1985 and had never ever cleaned bearing before!
Great video!!! My bearings have not turned anymore. Disassembled, cleaned, assembled, bähm!!! Everything is like new again. Also works with other bearings that have a plastic cages. Thank you very much!!! 👌🏻✌🏻
Thanks 👍 its kind of an example to show you don't need to buy new if you put a little time in and also that its not hard to do, I appreciate that a lot of people might not want to do it but thought it might be interesting to see none the less.
Finally got around to it and gave this a shot. Surprisingly not that difficult and kind of satisfying. Its a rainy day and Im just sitting with a sprained knee, so it's the perfect time to do it.
Popping retainers with a blade is harder and far less safe than just using something blunt and pushing it from the other side. You're also bending the retainer when you pull it out like that. Just take a bolt or something and push between the balls on the other side, pops right out.
I’ve found that the machine oil or any speed oil slows it down. Other bearings need lubricant but these in particular don’t. At the very least 3 drips is entirely too much imo
Enjoyed your vid bro 👌 ....I got raws too , not a criticism but I'm 98% sure their dry running silicone carbide bearings no need to lube at all man ,whilst also a shieldless design lube will pick up more dust and grit but anyhow big respect man now i know how to recondition ma raws 😎👊
The whole reason I had to clean them was because they were dry full of dust and grinding and squeaking, open bearing are just a terrible idea. You just can’t expect a bearing to run properly when it’s open to so much dirt and grit getting in. I’ve been using bones Swiss for a long time now and I’m way more happy with them and barely ever need to clean them.
Cool glad you found it useful, if you mean on the outside of the cage it won't have any effect on the operation of bearings but if you want to clean it you can scrub it with an old toothbrush or a fine wire brush like a suede buffing brush and some WD40.
Use Acetone and a Bones Bearings Cleaner kit - much less hassle. Also you can pop out the retainer from the back much easier and won't risk bending it..
Finally some clarification on whether you should oil or not oil Bronson raws. At 11:05 Ron says Raws are designed to be run without lube! This is why so many people have issues with them. oiling them will kill them (unless you skate in a clean room). Check it out. The important bit is at 11:05 ua-cam.com/video/luiRLOPFbT4/v-deo.html
In my humble opinion RAWs are just terrible bearings unless you intend to replace them every couple of weeks like you would if you were on a sponsorship deal with Bronson or like you say: you skate in a clean room 😁 Oiling them doesn’t kill them and all bearings in any use in any industry will run better when greased or lubed than not at all but sheildless bearings will attract dirt and even more so with oil in them so they are just fatally flawed. Nobody else’s makes shieldless bearings and there’s a darn good reason why. One day we’ll all be laughing about them as an industry folly just like bridge bolts, lappers tail savers and nose bones 🤣
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding RAWs use dry lubricant, the do not need any oil or lubricant at all, because you wash off the tungsten coat which functions as the lubricant and it pushes dirt away also
Sorry but that’s just marketing bull, the races are worn shiny within days of skating them there is no coating that withstands this kind of wear , as you saw in the video (if you watched it) they were so dry they were squeaking . These bearing are 99% marketing hype for people who want loose rattling bearings rather than precision engineered long lasting bearings.
@@Relycate I clean my bearing in general regularly I hadn’t cleaned these before but decided to clean and oil them because they were squeaking due to being dry. Fwiw they are oiled right out of the box, there is a small piece of cloth in the bottom of the box that is there to soak up the oil. You are free to believe whatever you like I’m just telling you my first hand experience rather than the marketing hype, I have no invested interest or anything to gain by being anything but honest .
Thanks, yeah you dont always get rid of all the grit just shaking them in a bottle, so if you leave some in there its just going to keep on clogging things up and not allowing them to roll well.
I just did my Bronson Raws today and used their suggested Bronson high speed ceramic oil and I only use one drop and it made it silent, how come your bearings got so loud after you inserted them in the wheels and spun them? Mine stay quiet as ever and I only used one drop of lubricant. Have you used the suggested Bronson lubricant and compared it to the high speed machine oil?
Bronson raws are not ceramics. I did alot of research on that and they are regular metal bearing, they just roll good as fuck! I recommend bones speed cream. Like one drop if anything
I would spray a bit of parts cleaner and clean the dirt and put them back but I wouldn’t put any oil in the end. I like the dry spin bearings because it sounds better and dust will come in but also it gets out by spinning if no oil. I also use air compressor gun to clean the dust and dirt and it works finely if bearings are dry. Oil spin doesn’t sound as good as dry spin. 😅
The whole reason I cleaned them in the first place was because they were dry and squeaky which was incredibly irritating , that whole dust falling out thing is fud, micro particles of dust stick to everything and builds up it doesn’t just fall out it way to fine for that. Bearing with shields stay way cleaner even with oil in them and that what I always use now. RAWs are a marketing fad and I tried them so I have an informed opinion but they are just crap imho.
I don’t usually lube my Bronson Bearings (I have G3’s) because a bunch of dirt and gunk gets stuck in them. I even try to wipe the access speed cream, but they still get dirty. Any ideas/ suggestions to fix this? Btw Very nice video 😃👍🏽
Thanks 👍🏻 Only put literally one drop of lube in two at maximum that’s all that needed after a proper clean and they should stay clean for at least a few months unless where you skate is particularly dusty.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Excellent my friend, you are always welcome here in Sao Paulo. Who knows, maybe one day we'll do a skate session here. Hugs my friend. Skate! :)
Use lube, they get a bit silenced and slower at first when you try them with the hands but that is nothing that will afect its performance while skateboarding. It will rather enhance it and prolong the bearings life.
Thought the idea with raw's was that you don't oil them? Oil is better with shields. Think the raw's have a teflon coating like a non stick frying pan? If you needed to lube them (I'm sure that teflon coating wears off a after a while), a dry lube like PTFE spray would be a better choice maybe. That's what we found RC buggy racing. The oil attracts grit, turning it into a grinding paste. With PTFE dry lube you just blast the dirt out with brake cleaner and spin to dry then few squirts of PTFE spray, spin each wheel to coat the lube evenly and leave to dry for a bit before use.
I’ve never seen any official guidance from Bronson that says don’t oil them and I distinctly remember the package coming with a small piece of white cloth material in the bottom of it that was soaked in oil and the bearings themselves had lots of oil residue on them. This makes sense to me so they don’t corrode in storage at the very least. I’ve just disassembled one again to look and the actual raceways are shiny polished not Teflon coated and even the darker areas that look like they could be coated just looks like the carbon content of the steel rather than an actual coating of something like Teflon. Again I’ve never seen any official documentation from bronson to say they are Teflon coated but even it they were it would wear off very quickly in the raceways. From new they collected dust and first very quickly and began to squeak which is why I cleaned them in the first place , you certainly could dry clean them like I did and not oil them but I’m sure they would be squawking again in no time. PTFE is certainly something to try but bronson have sold their own oil for years now and it’s probably what they apply to them in the factory which I suspect is no more that light machine oil like I said. I’m simply showing how to disassemble and clean them dry it’s purely up to anyone to do whatever they like with theirs.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding people are giving you advice as well and you just shutting them down, how about you listen to what others have to say because you did this all wrong 😑 the cloth the machine oil and using a blade with the steel balls scratching the metal…
That was an NMB 608ZZ they do not have removable shields, they are filled with grease and permanently sealed to keep dust and dirt out and not require any servicing.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Thank you for the info. I realize they aren't designed for skateboards and will be slower, however I'm looking for non standard bearings so I can use on a skateboard because I keep blowing them due to weight.
@@DunderHead.5000 Actually skateboard wheels were pretty much designed around using them as they were the suitable size back then before actual skate bearings came along (which were just copying the industrial design) so there's nothing wrong with using them and we always did back in the 80's go for it they will serve you well! as i said in the video you can get them from brands such as NMB, NSK, SKF and NTN amongst others.
Man i almost kill my raws, first i tried to clean them but i accidently put bike lubricant, they eouldnt even move after that, and today i bought speed cream and put them and now they work, but i think that for cleaning them compleatly ill be using, this tutorial
Bronson Raws are not meant to be lubed. No lube, grease or machine oil comes on them from the factory for a reason. Raws have Tungsten coated races. Tungsten dry lubricant coating is slick and non-stick to minimize dirt and crud build up. You just flush them out with Isopropyl alcohol in a 'jar cleaner' like the Bronson or Bones systems without any disassembly! There are no outside shields to remove. Then dry them out thoroughly and just ride them. Any type of lubricant will attract and hold dirt and gum up the bearings.
And yet when I got them fresh out the sealed packaging they were oily and there was a piece of fabric type material they were sitting on inlaid in the box which was also oily 🤷🏻 either way I cleaned them because they were dry and squeaking and performing terribly . My overall experience of them fresh out the pack before I cleaned them was very poor any quite possibly the worst bearings I’ve tried (and I’ve tried a lot of different ones) I’m much happier with Bones Swiss.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Jamie Foy puts his Bronson Raws in a glass of Windex for half an hour, then just rides them. I understand it seems neglectful, I clean and Speed Cream all my bearings except these and my Zealous but I trust the people at Bronson, that this is how they designed them and they ride great and I like the noise. 😁If you put any kind of lube on them, it will hold the dirt and clog up the races. Flush them out with 71% Isopropyl alcohol occasionally and keep riding them.
The bearings use a dry film tungsten coating lubricant so no need to lube them up with silicone lube or Bronson speed lube. Also alcohol/acetone/ citrus based soaps will not strip the tungsten coating only way to get the tungsten coating off would be with molten salts and that’s expensive and pointless if you were to do that lol. And use a microfiber cloth as opposed to rags that leave residue and small fibers in your bearings.
The actual races and ball bearings are mirror polished from the movement so there’s no coating on those parts (at least after being used a very short time). There is lubricant residue on them when fresh out of the box from bronson which does attract dirt and dust just like any other lubricant. Regardless of what Bronson do to them, literally any skateboard bearing will run just fine when lubricated there’s nothing unique about these that prevents that from being so, but the massive shortfall of open bearings is that they do get just as dirty whether totally dry or lubricated, there seems to be some kind of myth perpetuated that being open means the dirt somehow miraculously falls out of them which just isn’t true (I wish it was) but they were incredibly dirty and running very rough before I ever cleaned them the first time and only every used them in dry clean conditions. When I dry cleaned them in the video there weren’t any fibres left behind from cleaning either.
Look up the price of these Bronson RAW’s or Bones Swiss and tell me how often you’d like to be buying them, cheap bearings are slow and fall apart, there’s an old saying “buy cheap, buy twice” decent, more expensive bearings will last years so are much more economical and are a much better ride, it takes some people time to learn that.
shouldn’t use lube cause it collects dust and dirt and will stick and pack more. If you run them dry they will spin better and dirt and dust will fall out. That’s why those Bronson rates comes dry with out lube
Don't use a sharp metal object to prod the bearings you will scratch them . they are expensive. soak them in window cleaner. I found that was a very effective solution for cleaning. use cloves and do the whole procedure in a large tray so u can catch the bearings if they decide to go walk about. otherwise it was a not bad video. cheers.
I didnt scrath or damage them there's nothing wrong with using a knife blade if you are gentle the bearings are hardedned steel and not easily scratched, in fact being Bronson RAW open bearings they have more chance of being scratched and damaged by a piece of grit getting in them while rolling. I've done this cleaning scenario many, many times and always works perfectly which is why i made the video. Any cleaning product will work to separate dust from the balls and races but manually cleaning each ball, the race and then the carrier rings will be a as thorough as you can get.
Why would you use a speed kit on Raws? That must be a like a tunning fork to equal the amount of dirt in each bearing. Unless you are riding vert or going downhill that must be a drag. You have hard wheels already so the bearing itself balances dirt away when more weight digs into the bearings. This is why the acceleration is fast downhill and a beautiful specialty.
Speed kit? I presume you are talking about washers and spacer? You should always use them no matter what your terrain and wheel hardness, they reduce friction and promote true running of the bearing and tightening the nut accordingly removes lateral movement and wobble which again is a point of friction . watch how freely my wheel spins when the nuts are fully tightened, zero lateral movement and free fast spinning, its simple engineering and using bearings the way they are designed to work at their best.
I meant to have dirt have itself to push off the dirt. The bearing has to have better surfaced down force with narrow and precise raceways to have the balls be the center of weight than two leveled bearings centering two stabalize before better boardfeel from immediate wheel surfacing either way. It say they'd technically only have to be cleaned more frequent if their is grease when I belive you don't necessarily need speed cream for these.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding I didn't mean to set off the wrong tone or anything because you know about maitnence and I praise you for it but when bearings get caught up with siezing its cause the balls expand when there is an overheat in the friction over it's raceways. I just know Bronson has dope ass quality bearings too. Lol scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=241
Dirt is not beneficial in a bearing in any sense so even some dirt is a problem, that’s why these bearings are ultimately flawed, I believe Bordon get over this by having way less precision in their construction which is why they rattle and wobble, if the tolerances were tighter they would just seize up way easier. So dirt pushing other dirt out is somewhat a moot point because dirt in a bearing is bad period. Less lubricant does mean less dirt but it also means more fiction and premature wear, I think Bronson have tried to fix a problem that never really existed with high quality precision bearings in order to make a gimmick that would appeal to the market and the Pro’s who endorse them get free ones often enough that they never need to maintain them.
Cool vid.... Why does the music towards the end Sound like the scene where a girlfriend breaks up with the main character? Should have some punk rock in there or something LOL
I would go for G3 if I were you, I have used both and I think RAW’s are a waste of money. If you are going to spend that kind of money get Bones Swiss they are the best available and what I have settled on using after an awful lot of testing.
Thanks for sharing this ! You're really patient, not like me. I'd rather buy new ones instead of spending that much time for cleaning them. Hey ! $30 ...
@@Entheos369 Alcohol doesn't guarantee they'll be clean, there will still be stubborn stuck dirt left behind but you are free to do whatever you like, this is just a way to do a thorough job
Did this too My raws and bronson ceramics and it was much hard getting the balls back in the ceramics
I usually just throw them in a glass mason jar submerged in rubbing alcohol.. and swirl them around for a few minutes, then blow dry them with compressed air. These RAW bearings are the best 👌
I used a very small flathead screwdriver (like you use to repair mobile phones) and popped cage out by pressing in between each BB on the 'open' cage side. To get the cage back on, lined up all the bearings sitting on top of the cage (also, v easy with aforementioned screwdriver), then picked it up and pressed cage down, worked around to where I started popping each bearing in. Very easyt. Thanks for this video, I've been skating since 1985 and had never ever cleaned bearing before!
Great to hear you found it useful 👍🏻 thanks for letting me know 👊🏼
Nice video man ! I've done this before while being drunk and it took me 6 hours 🤪
Thanks 👍🏻 Ha Ha, not the ideal time to be doing it 😁
Great video!!! My bearings have not turned anymore. Disassembled, cleaned, assembled, bähm!!! Everything is like new again. Also works with other bearings that have a plastic cages. Thank you very much!!! 👌🏻✌🏻
Glad to help
Thank you so much I skated in the rain I thought my bronsons were done for
Thanks for the walkthrough bro.
You're a good man
I’m happy to hear you found it interesting 👍🏻👊🏼
That is a an interesting process. I just buy new ones but respect the work you put in. And you did a great job talking through all this.
Thanks 👍 its kind of an example to show you don't need to buy new if you put a little time in and also that its not hard to do, I appreciate that a lot of people might not want to do it but thought it might be interesting to see none the less.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding it was interesting. I appreciated the video.
@@AdventuresInSkateboarding Thanks 👍
Thank you brother for this tutorial video ! Now my bearing smooth and clean ..
That's great to hear thank you 👍🏼
Finally got around to it and gave this a shot. Surprisingly not that difficult and kind of satisfying. Its a rainy day and Im just sitting with a sprained knee, so it's the perfect time to do it.
Hope you get well soon 👊🏼
I learned a lot from this, thanks for the time you put into making it and explaining everything so clearly. :)
I’m glad to hear you found it useful, thanks for checking it out 👍🏻
Popping retainers with a blade is harder and far less safe than just using something blunt and pushing it from the other side. You're also bending the retainer when you pull it out like that. Just take a bolt or something and push between the balls on the other side, pops right out.
Yep 💯
I’ve found that the machine oil or any speed oil slows it down. Other bearings need lubricant but these in particular don’t. At the very least 3 drips is entirely too much imo
useful content i'll bookmark for a rainy day
thanks for this, i got some raws not long ago so will probably be doing this at some point
Cool, Best of luck!
Enjoyed your vid bro 👌 ....I got raws too , not a criticism but I'm 98% sure their dry running silicone carbide bearings no need to lube at all man ,whilst also a shieldless design lube will pick up more dust and grit but anyhow big respect man now i know how to recondition ma raws 😎👊
The whole reason I had to clean them was because they were dry full of dust and grinding and squeaking, open bearing are just a terrible idea. You just can’t expect a bearing to run properly when it’s open to so much dirt and grit getting in.
I’ve been using bones Swiss for a long time now and I’m way more happy with them and barely ever need to clean them.
Greta video, but I agree I don’t live my Raws and they run much better dry.
thanks bro, finally my bearings are clean.
What can I do if the bearings have some rust where the bronson inscription is?
Cool glad you found it useful, if you mean on the outside of the cage it won't have any effect on the operation of bearings but if you want to clean it you can scrub it with an old toothbrush or a fine wire brush like a suede buffing brush and some WD40.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Thanks, what do you think of using brasso?
@@visiontremens7937 you could but it's an abrasive so it might take the plating off the casing and then if it gets damp it will rust much worse.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Thanks a lot!
@@visiontremens7937 No problem !
mah frist time seeing someone take those bearings out
can you make more vid like this with wheels, truck, pushing,...?
Hi, Yes I'll certainly try to do more of these kind of videos, thanks for your comment ;)
Thank u times a thousand
This helped out a lot
Thank you for showing your appreciation, it really does mean a lot to me 🙏🏻
Neil Hester - Skateboarding no thank you I thought my bonsons would have never survived
@@julianrey94 Well I'm really pleased to hear it helped you 👍
Use Acetone and a Bones Bearings Cleaner kit - much less hassle. Also you can pop out the retainer from the back much easier and won't risk bending it..
Also don't touch the balls with your knife! They scratch up and won't be the same...
Finally some clarification on whether you should oil or not oil Bronson raws. At 11:05 Ron says Raws are designed to be run without lube! This is why so many people have issues with them. oiling them will kill them (unless you skate in a clean room). Check it out. The important bit is at 11:05 ua-cam.com/video/luiRLOPFbT4/v-deo.html
In my humble opinion RAWs are just terrible bearings unless you intend to replace them every couple of weeks like you would if you were on a sponsorship deal with Bronson or like you say: you skate in a clean room 😁 Oiling them doesn’t kill them and all bearings in any use in any industry will run better when greased or lubed than not at all but sheildless bearings will attract dirt and even more so with oil in them so they are just fatally flawed. Nobody else’s makes shieldless bearings and there’s a darn good reason why. One day we’ll all be laughing about them as an industry folly just like bridge bolts, lappers tail savers and nose bones 🤣
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding RAWs use dry lubricant, the do not need any oil or lubricant at all, because you wash off the tungsten coat which functions as the lubricant and it pushes dirt away also
Sorry but that’s just marketing bull, the races are worn shiny within days of skating them there is no coating that withstands this kind of wear , as you saw in the video (if you watched it) they were so dry they were squeaking .
These bearing are 99% marketing hype for people who want loose rattling bearings rather than precision engineered long lasting bearings.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding But you mentioned you clean them regularly. Nevermind, I trust bronson and their experience.
@@Relycate I clean my bearing in general regularly I hadn’t cleaned these before but decided to clean and oil them because they were squeaking due to being dry.
Fwiw they are oiled right out of the box, there is a small piece of cloth in the bottom of the box that is there to soak up the oil.
You are free to believe whatever you like I’m just telling you my first hand experience rather than the marketing hype, I have no invested interest or anything to gain by being anything but honest .
thank you, amazing tutorial
Thanks, I appreciate your kind response 👍🏻
Good idea mate, I never thought of taking the bearing holder part out. people just shake the bearings in a bottle but I think that's a half clean
Thanks, yeah you dont always get rid of all the grit just shaking them in a bottle, so if you leave some in there its just going to keep on clogging things up and not allowing them to roll well.
👏👏👏👏loved it. THANK YOU 👏👏👏👏
That’s great to hear 👍🏻👊🏼
i use softube console as well!
I just did my Bronson Raws today and used their suggested Bronson high speed ceramic oil and I only use one drop and it made it silent, how come your bearings got so loud after you inserted them in the wheels and spun them? Mine stay quiet as ever and I only used one drop of lubricant. Have you used the suggested Bronson lubricant and compared it to the high speed machine oil?
It will most likely be the bronson cream being a denser more viscous lubricant than the machine oil, I haven't tried it but I will sometime.
Bones speed cream does the same also
Bronson raws are not ceramics. I did alot of research on that and they are regular metal bearing, they just roll good as fuck! I recommend bones speed cream. Like one drop if anything
I would spray a bit of parts cleaner and clean the dirt and put them back but I wouldn’t put any oil in the end. I like the dry spin bearings because it sounds better and dust will come in but also it gets out by spinning if no oil. I also use air compressor gun to clean the dust and dirt and it works finely if bearings are dry. Oil spin doesn’t sound as good as dry spin. 😅
The whole reason I cleaned them in the first place was because they were dry and squeaky which was incredibly irritating , that whole dust falling out thing is fud, micro particles of dust stick to everything and builds up it doesn’t just fall out it way to fine for that. Bearing with shields stay way cleaner even with oil in them and that what I always use now. RAWs are a marketing fad and I tried them so I have an informed opinion but they are just crap imho.
I don’t usually lube my Bronson Bearings (I have G3’s) because a bunch of dirt and gunk gets stuck in them. I even try to wipe the access speed cream, but they still get dirty. Any ideas/ suggestions to fix this? Btw Very nice video 😃👍🏽
Thanks 👍🏻 Only put literally one drop of lube in two at maximum that’s all that needed after a proper clean and they should stay clean for at least a few months unless where you skate is particularly dusty.
As soon as I lube my Raws they pretty much stop spinning?
How the size of this wheels?
Thanks my friend. :)
These ones are 58mm
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Thanks man, I use 53mm, hugs from Sao Paulo - Brazil :)
@@skatecommusica❤ 👊🏼 cool I’ve skated some bowls in SP and I go and skate in Florionopolis every couple of years.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Excellent my friend, you are always welcome here in Sao Paulo.
Who knows, maybe one day we'll do a skate session here.
Hugs my friend.
Skate! :)
@@skatecommusica if I’m in SP anytime I will tell you 👊🏼
Use lube, they get a bit silenced and slower at first when you try them with the hands but that is nothing that will afect its performance while skateboarding. It will rather enhance it and prolong the bearings life.
Thought the idea with raw's was that you don't oil them? Oil is better with shields. Think the raw's have a teflon coating like a non stick frying pan? If you needed to lube them (I'm sure that teflon coating wears off a after a while), a dry lube like PTFE spray would be a better choice maybe. That's what we found RC buggy racing. The oil attracts grit, turning it into a grinding paste. With PTFE dry lube you just blast the dirt out with brake cleaner and spin to dry then few squirts of PTFE spray, spin each wheel to coat the lube evenly and leave to dry for a bit before use.
Ps you wouldn't even need to dissemble anything! Think I may try it out 😃
I’ve never seen any official guidance from Bronson that says don’t oil them and I distinctly remember the package coming with a small piece of white cloth material in the bottom of it that was soaked in oil and the bearings themselves had lots of oil residue on them. This makes sense to me so they don’t corrode in storage at the very least.
I’ve just disassembled one again to look and the actual raceways are shiny polished not Teflon coated and even the darker areas that look like they could be coated just looks like the carbon content of the steel rather than an actual coating of something like Teflon. Again I’ve never seen any official documentation from bronson to say they are Teflon coated but even it they were it would wear off very quickly in the raceways.
From new they collected dust and first very quickly and began to squeak which is why I cleaned them in the first place , you certainly could dry clean them like I did and not oil them but I’m sure they would be squawking again in no time. PTFE is certainly something to try but bronson have sold their own oil for years now and it’s probably what they apply to them in the factory which I suspect is no more that light machine oil like I said.
I’m simply showing how to disassemble and clean them dry it’s purely up to anyone to do whatever they like with theirs.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding people are giving you advice as well and you just shutting them down, how about you listen to what others have to say because you did this all wrong 😑 the cloth the machine oil and using a blade with the steel balls scratching the metal…
Have you tried to use dry lube (powder)on the Bronson Raw?
No
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Okay i will try it,I came over some sets to a good price.Do still think it's a good bearing?
@Palle H No I personally don’t think they are good, I much prefer Bones Swiss, RAW’s get dirty and slow way too easily.
What type of machine bearing what that at 16:42 and do they have removable shields?
That was an NMB 608ZZ they do not have removable shields, they are filled with grease and permanently sealed to keep dust and dirt out and not require any servicing.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Thank you for the info. I realize they aren't designed for skateboards and will be slower, however I'm looking for non standard bearings so I can use on a skateboard because I keep blowing them due to weight.
@@DunderHead.5000 Actually skateboard wheels were pretty much designed around using them as they were the suitable size back then before actual skate bearings came along (which were just copying the industrial design) so there's nothing wrong with using them and we always did back in the 80's go for it they will serve you well! as i said in the video you can get them from brands such as NMB, NSK, SKF and NTN amongst others.
NMB bearings were sold at skateshops in the 1980s for folks that couldn't afford the $20 bones swiss. Yes 30 years ago they were only 20 bucks !
After cleaning and put all the ball bearing back together, dont need to lubricate it?
Yes this is shown in the video.
it looks intimidating but its easier then it looks
Man i almost kill my raws, first i tried to clean them but i accidently put bike lubricant, they eouldnt even move after that, and today i bought speed cream and put them and now they work, but i think that for cleaning them compleatly ill be using, this tutorial
If you want to clean your bearings properly, you must use Acetone which will remove all the dirt and then apply the speed cream.
Bronson Raws are not meant to be lubed. No lube, grease or machine oil comes on them from the factory for a reason. Raws have Tungsten coated races. Tungsten dry lubricant coating is slick and non-stick to minimize dirt and crud build up. You just flush them out with Isopropyl alcohol in a 'jar cleaner' like the Bronson or Bones systems without any disassembly! There are no outside shields to remove. Then dry them out thoroughly and just ride them. Any type of lubricant will attract and hold dirt and gum up the bearings.
And yet when I got them fresh out the sealed packaging they were oily and there was a piece of fabric type material they were sitting on inlaid in the box which was also oily 🤷🏻 either way I cleaned them because they were dry and squeaking and performing terribly . My overall experience of them fresh out the pack before I cleaned them was very poor any quite possibly the worst bearings I’ve tried (and I’ve tried a lot of different ones) I’m much happier with Bones Swiss.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Jamie Foy puts his Bronson Raws in a glass of Windex for half an hour, then just rides them. I understand it seems neglectful, I clean and Speed Cream all my bearings except these and my Zealous but I trust the people at Bronson, that this is how they designed them and they ride great and I like the noise. 😁If you put any kind of lube on them, it will hold the dirt and clog up the races. Flush them out with 71% Isopropyl alcohol occasionally and keep riding them.
@@theoriginalrabbithole I’ll stick with the bones they rarely ever need cleaning and never slow down.
The bearings use a dry film tungsten coating lubricant so no need to lube them up with silicone lube or Bronson speed lube. Also alcohol/acetone/ citrus based soaps will not strip the tungsten coating only way to get the tungsten coating off would be with molten salts and that’s expensive and pointless if you were to do that lol. And use a microfiber cloth as opposed to rags that leave residue and small fibers in your bearings.
The actual races and ball bearings are mirror polished from the movement so there’s no coating on those parts (at least after being used a very short time). There is lubricant residue on them when fresh out of the box from bronson which does attract dirt and dust just like any other lubricant.
Regardless of what Bronson do to them, literally any skateboard bearing will run just fine when lubricated there’s nothing unique about these that prevents that from being so, but the massive shortfall of open bearings is that they do get just as dirty whether totally dry or lubricated, there seems to be some kind of myth perpetuated that being open means the dirt somehow miraculously falls out of them which just isn’t true (I wish it was) but they were incredibly dirty and running very rough before I ever cleaned them the first time and only every used them in dry clean conditions.
When I dry cleaned them in the video there weren’t any fibres left behind from cleaning either.
Lifesaver thx!
You are very welcome, and thank you 👊🏼
New bearings are not very expensive, many brands, lots of competition - welcome to 2020.
Look up the price of these Bronson RAW’s or Bones Swiss and tell me how often you’d like to be buying them, cheap bearings are slow and fall apart, there’s an old saying “buy cheap, buy twice” decent, more expensive bearings will last years so are much more economical and are a much better ride, it takes some people time to learn that.
When cleaning the shield use an old toothbrush. Gets tge dirt off sooo much easier than with a knife
10:56
When I try to put the ball bearings back in, they always pop out. Am I doing smth. wrong?
Its hard to say without seeing what you are doing.
Soaking them in vinegar for a few days will detach rust and make it easily removable with just a dry rag.
shouldn’t use lube cause it collects dust and dirt and will stick and pack more. If you run them dry they will spin better and dirt and dust will fall out. That’s why those Bronson rates comes dry with out lube
thanks bro
You're welcome 👊🏻
Don't use a sharp metal object to prod the bearings you will scratch them . they are expensive. soak them in window cleaner. I found that was a very effective solution for cleaning. use cloves and do the whole procedure in a large tray so u can catch the bearings if they decide to go walk about. otherwise it was a not bad video. cheers.
I didnt scrath or damage them there's nothing wrong with using a knife blade if you are gentle the bearings are hardedned steel and not easily scratched, in fact being Bronson RAW open bearings they have more chance of being scratched and damaged by a piece of grit getting in them while rolling. I've done this cleaning scenario many, many times and always works perfectly which is why i made the video. Any cleaning product will work to separate dust from the balls and races but manually cleaning each ball, the race and then the carrier rings will be a as thorough as you can get.
Why would you use a speed kit on Raws? That must be a like a tunning fork to equal the amount of dirt in each bearing. Unless you are riding vert or going downhill that must be a drag. You have hard wheels already so the bearing itself balances dirt away when more weight digs into the bearings. This is why the acceleration is fast downhill and a beautiful specialty.
Speed kit? I presume you are talking about washers and spacer? You should always use them no matter what your terrain and wheel hardness, they reduce friction and promote true running of the bearing and tightening the nut accordingly removes lateral movement and wobble which again is a point of friction . watch how freely my wheel spins when the nuts are fully tightened, zero lateral movement and free fast spinning, its simple engineering and using bearings the way they are designed to work at their best.
I meant to have dirt have itself to push off the dirt. The bearing has to have better surfaced down force with narrow and precise raceways to have the balls be the center of weight than two leveled bearings centering two stabalize before better boardfeel from immediate wheel surfacing either way. It say they'd technically only have to be cleaned more frequent if their is grease when I belive you don't necessarily need speed cream for these.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Well most specificlly tje spacer.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding I didn't mean to set off the wrong tone or anything because you know about maitnence and I praise you for it but when bearings get caught up with siezing its cause the balls expand when there is an overheat in the friction over it's raceways. I just know Bronson has dope ass quality bearings too. Lol
scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=241
Dirt is not beneficial in a bearing in any sense so even some dirt is a problem, that’s why these bearings are ultimately flawed, I believe Bordon get over this by having way less precision in their construction which is why they rattle and wobble, if the tolerances were tighter they would just seize up way easier.
So dirt pushing other dirt out is somewhat a moot point because dirt in a bearing is bad period.
Less lubricant does mean less dirt but it also means more fiction and premature wear, I think Bronson have tried to fix a problem that never really existed with high quality precision bearings in order to make a gimmick that would appeal to the market and the Pro’s who endorse them get free ones often enough that they never need to maintain them.
Cool vid.... Why does the music towards the end Sound like the scene where a girlfriend breaks up with the main character? Should have some punk rock in there or something LOL
Ha Ha ! You win comment of the year 😆 Music evokes such varied responses but this one is gold !
g3 or raw?
I would go for G3 if I were you, I have used both and I think RAW’s are a waste of money. If you are going to spend that kind of money get Bones Swiss they are the best available and what I have settled on using after an awful lot of testing.
I have that tool. They are going for 80$ on eBay nowadays
Really? The skate tool ?
Great BAck Ground music >~/: intense Movie like....!
😆
Thanks for sharing this ! You're really patient, not like me. I'd rather buy new ones instead of spending that much time for cleaning them. Hey ! $30 ...
Thanks, I'm weird :) I find this sort of thing quite therapeutic, if anything at least it may show that's its entirely possible.
They not even spinning fast you messed them up
nah you trippin
Or, you can buy them at Home Depot!!
You got the bearings in the wrong way and the reason you can hear the bearings is they ate stuffed need replacing.
Nope
Rubbing alcohol is your friend!
No need
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding Yeah, couldn't you just throw them in some alcohol for a bit and be done? Do you really have to take them apart?
@@Entheos369 Alcohol doesn't guarantee they'll be clean, there will still be stubborn stuck dirt left behind but you are free to do whatever you like, this is just a way to do a thorough job
This is ALOT for one bearing
If you are adding oil to Raws you are doing it very wrong
Watch my latest video for an example of non oiled RAWs after 2 months of skating.
@@NeilHesterSkateboarding ok