If I had the money I really need to do what I want to do, itd be a wild ride...lol. Maybe in a year or two if the channek keeps growing...we shall see.
Steering Axis Inclination --> The imaginary line through the two ball joints around which the steering knuckle and therefore hub and wheel pivots. Yup learned a ton about that, and the relationship to offset, backspacing, and scrub radius when I was researching axles for my Jeep. I’m always surprised by how many in that crowd either don’t know, or just don’t care, about how the factory engineered all of this.
I knew about hubcentric rings but I had no idea that those lugnuts were a thing. I'm not going to say a game changer for me but it opens up a few possibilities for wheels.
C6 base is very difficult...literally no options out there almost. This offset will be out big time on a c6 base body. I can do a test fit actually, our c6 is on the lift...lol
Thanks for the video dude. Somebody that might want to put those wheels on their c5 vette will atleast know what products to purchase to make the ride safer. Good luck in your endeavors.
This is crazy. You covered almost everything I wanted to know about this exact topic. I recently picked up a c5 and the 5x120.65 wheels on the market are absolutely atrocious so I’ve been looking at doing 5x120 wheels instead. This was extremely helpful the only thing I still don’t understand is how to get the fitment I want with the concavity. We seem to have similar tastes you’re just much more knowledgeable than me.
Getting concavity is tricky, because there are a lot of factors and it depends on whether or not you want to fit the stock body. If you watch my square setup video, youll see my max fitment on stock body square setup. It clears my brakes by 1/4" and has max concave and max fit inside the wheelwell and edge of fender with reasonable track oriented (not stance style) camber. I will try to do another wheel setup video to show how I compare and look at things.
@@KnightDriveTV so I’m not looking to do such wide wheels as I’m not really looking for any grip benefits I just want the aesthetic gain. Everything I’ve looked at so far has pointed to doing a staggered 18x8.5 f and 18x9.5 r so that is what I have been looking for and I have been struggling. But if you could run a squared 18x11 setup surely I could run a squared 18x9.5 which would make it much easier for me to find wheels. Would I have to still run such a high offset on narrower wheels? Or could I get away with like a 40-35? I am running stock body as of now but I’m fine with a slight poke if it means I can have concavity. I’m honestly amazed you were able to get concavity on wheels witch such a high offset as that’s something I don’t ever see and I’m curious how you were able to make that happen.
Love your headlights and your work man! I actually owned a Type R right before my C5Z and i miss it so much had to get rid of it for reasons. And now learning you worked on Hondas is awesome i dont get why people hate on them theyre engineering is top notch and the type r is honestly the best car ive ever driven. Speed isnt everything and alot of people dont understand that. You literally cant explain it till you drive one. Cant wait to see this project completed as im 100% invested and wanna do the same!
gd its beautiful. brake envy wheel envy. learning man, had no idea any of that existed, good to know. need to see if i can find a set of rear z wheels, i am ready for a brake upgrade, mine are disgusting. this is the reason why i take interest in many things, never know when one might inspire or work through another. my pleasure man, keep going. pray for me though im about to try to build my first axle back exhaust.
Thank you, in one simple video you answered two questions I've been trying to get accurate answers to for a long time. Did I miss the part of the video where you listed the part numbers for the ring and lug nuts?
Certainly NOT the crappiest video I've ever seen. Well explained. Damn good looking results as well. Any test miles yet? And those who haven't spent much time behind the wheel of a 90s Honda don't understand how disgustingly well built those cars were and how well they drove. Esp at their price point. Not a car to be hated on, just some of their enthusiasts can be a little.. odd. Same with any car culture.
The miles are coming ahead, once the widebody build begins in October. I have full confidence in them though, there won't be any issues whatsoever. Thanks for watching...keep an eye out for the widebody 3D design/print/build ahead!
I absolutely love the look of those Volk wheels....with an aggressive track alignment, (plenty of negative camber) do you think this setup can be run without doing wider fenders while using 315's square? Also, can you post the Amazon and Ebay links to the hub centric ring and the lug nuts you're using? Keep up the good work,....maybe it's time for air conditioning in the garage, lol.
Aw man...ac in the garage was something I was just talking about. I am thinking of throwing a mini-split in there. I would say, even with max camber you'd be sticking out quite a bit. The track guys/autocross guys will do it and I've seen it done with 315's on lesser offsets but in this case, the widebody would be appropriate. I want to make the components simply because adding frontal area with a front fender, will add a lot of opportunity for downforce/front aero. I am at near max camber just in this video, so under full compression/braking, they'd be hitting everything. To get 315's on there, you have to go with my current square setup of 18x11 et53 and then the tires would just poke big.
I should've clarified but I do this all on the fly of course...but you do measure 5 lug stud to stud (skipping one of course)...you measure from the center of one stud, to the back side of the other. It is the diameter of the circle, but the practical way to measure is stud to stud. So you're correct of course, but so am I...lol.
THANK YOU! This is incredibly helpful. I have a 1994 C4 and I really wanna get some Enkei Kojins (specifically no.4768951235) and was scared about the lug pattern being 0.65mm smaller than my C4's pattern, as well as realizing the spacing of the hub bores. It sounded like i'd have to measure exactly where to put each wheel centered on each corner which sounds ridiculous! I had no idea about bore spacers and the adjusting lug nuts, so thank you. Mine was equipped with the aluminum 17x9.5 ZR-1 rims with a 56mm offset on 275/40 tires...and like you, I really like concaveness, so I was wondering if you have any knowledge on whether the Enkei no.4768951235 (18x9.5) with a +35 offset would get me what I need while retaining some amount of flushness with the fenders. I know you're not a C4 guy but I for some reason cannot visualize offset and was hoping you could fill me in on some technical advice.
Actually, I have a 1990 ZR1 and a 1987 Callaway Twin Turbo that I have shown, VERY briefly, on the channel...so I am a C4 guy for sure. In another vid, you can also see.I gave my 1984 4+3 to a friend of mine, and we got her runnin great. For visualizing offset and widths, I often google search calculators online. This allows you to input the stock wheel size/offset, then input what you want to put on. Itll calculate the exact change, so you know how it'll affect flushness, etc. Google "wheel offset calculator" and look for the one that shows you a drawn outline of each wheel. It gives all the specs of difference. I use the same type of calculator for tires also. Flushness with a wheel vs flushness with a tire, also matters. Once you know where your wheel is, you have to also get the right tire to make things look right and sit proper.
@@KnightDriveTV fantastic, thank you! I'll also check out our vids with the C4s, I'm a big fan of this generation--as impractical as they are compared to the C5
I dont think the 120.65 have anything to do with USA. Because Camaro, Firebird and Mustangs have 5x120. Corvette is the only Car in the World, together with Bentley who have 5x120.65.
After watching the video I went online to see if I could find a set of the te 37s for a c5. It seems like there were a few sources out there that had these model wheels in stock here in the states. My question is will they be 120 mms or the correct 120.65 spacing? Or a better way of asking is, is this an issue inherent in the design and needs to be corrected with these spacers or is this a fitment issue that has since been solved since you purchased yours? Either way good content. I would have been ignorant of this otherwise.
All the things youre bringing up is something I have spoken about in the video. The TE's made to fit corvettes were 9.5" fronts and 10.5" rears...this is far from whats needed for a capable track setup. There is NO TE37 that fits C5, with 5x120.65 and has 11" widths conducive of a square setup. The square setup is ideal setup for C5, as proven by TT and Optima cars. The offsets for 11" wide wheels were +20 or more, which is wayyyy outside C5 fenders. This is the closest TE that exists, that has potential on a C5 and gives the adequate amount of rubber to be competitive on a road course/autocross scenario. I will have 315 square, TE's, on a C5...cant be done any other way.
@@KnightDriveTV I couldn’t find them for the life of me. I want these 5x120.7 wheels (they only come in that pattern) for my car which is 5x120. With my car being high horsepower track car I don’t want to risk safety.
Itll just need what I showed in this video to work. Proper backspacing, proper hub bore adapter and the wobble lugs. As long as the c5 wheels have a bigger or identical center bore, it can work
Thanks for the video. Can you help us out? My son has a 2011 bmw 535i (f10) which are 5x120 and Center Bore / Hub Bore: 72.6 mm Thread Size: M14 x 1.25 Stock offset on 18inch wheels are: 245/45ZR18 8Jx18 ET30 on 18" wheels and can go up to: 245/35ZR20 95Y fronts 275/30ZR20 97Y rears 8.5Jx20 ET33 fronts 9Jx20 ET44 rears We found some wheels (NOT Staggered) that are 20inch with a bolt pattern of 5x120.65 and 72.56 mm hub (so the hub looks to be .04 smaller?) And the bolt pattern looks to be .65 more?) I'm checking into offset right now but this seems terribly close. Can anyone chime in and help me out on potential parts I may need to successfully and safely configure?
I would say a couple reasons. Its the same reason nitrous has a bad reputation...user error. There is nothing wrong with the tool, but the person using it. The hub center ring is very important to center locate the wheel, and used correctly in CONJUNCTION with the wobble nuts. Without the center ring, the wobble nuts will only worsen an ill fitting setup. Also, they have a lateral movement range. If you were to go outside that range, I suspect issues could occur. The fact is though, they are clamping your wheel against the rotor, as long as the wheel.is centered on the hub, there is absolutely no risk there. In this case, the .65mm difference is minimal so....no problems at all.
Thanks!
Appreciate that one man! Much thanks!
11:24 Mmmm! I didn't know about those special lugs -- thank you!!!👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
this man does everything that people would want to do but thinks its too controversial or doesn't have enough time or money to do, love it!
If I had the money I really need to do what I want to do, itd be a wild ride...lol. Maybe in a year or two if the channek keeps growing...we shall see.
WHAT ARE THOSE LUG NUTS CALLED ?
You obviously know what you're doing. So glad I decided to buy your well designed headlights 💪🏼
Thank you. Screw what anyone thinks. I appreciate the education big time.
Appreciate it man. Videos are a lot of work and you put yourself out there ya know...its the game...lol
Wow those lug nuts are a trip!!!!
Steering Axis Inclination --> The imaginary line through the two ball joints around which the steering knuckle and therefore hub and wheel pivots. Yup learned a ton about that, and the relationship to offset, backspacing, and scrub radius when I was researching axles for my Jeep. I’m always surprised by how many in that crowd either don’t know, or just don’t care, about how the factory engineered all of this.
Always important to be aware of the details!
Awesome video thanks for sharing your knowledge across the board. Please continue making these videos.
I knew about hubcentric rings but I had no idea that those lugnuts were a thing. I'm not going to say a game changer for me but it opens up a few possibilities for wheels.
Every little bit helps with options!
Thank you very much, been trying to find wheel options for my 99 Camaro and you just greatly expanded my options!!
Glad I could help!
That’s awesome. I’m gonna try this on my C6
C6 base is very difficult...literally no options out there almost. This offset will be out big time on a c6 base body. I can do a test fit actually, our c6 is on the lift...lol
@knightdrivetv how do you think the offset on this would be on a c6 z06? I think TE’s would look bitchin on it
Can't wait for your wide body kit and hood. Excellent!
Awesome information didn’t even know that such bolts existed
Thanks for the video dude. Somebody that might want to put those wheels on their c5 vette will atleast know what products to purchase to make the ride safer. Good luck in your endeavors.
This is crazy. You covered almost everything I wanted to know about this exact topic. I recently picked up a c5 and the 5x120.65 wheels on the market are absolutely atrocious so I’ve been looking at doing 5x120 wheels instead. This was extremely helpful the only thing I still don’t understand is how to get the fitment I want with the concavity. We seem to have similar tastes you’re just much more knowledgeable than me.
Getting concavity is tricky, because there are a lot of factors and it depends on whether or not you want to fit the stock body. If you watch my square setup video, youll see my max fitment on stock body square setup. It clears my brakes by 1/4" and has max concave and max fit inside the wheelwell and edge of fender with reasonable track oriented (not stance style) camber. I will try to do another wheel setup video to show how I compare and look at things.
@@KnightDriveTV so I’m not looking to do such wide wheels as I’m not really looking for any grip benefits I just want the aesthetic gain. Everything I’ve looked at so far has pointed to doing a staggered 18x8.5 f and 18x9.5 r so that is what I have been looking for and I have been struggling. But if you could run a squared 18x11 setup surely I could run a squared 18x9.5 which would make it much easier for me to find wheels. Would I have to still run such a high offset on narrower wheels? Or could I get away with like a 40-35? I am running stock body as of now but I’m fine with a slight poke if it means I can have concavity. I’m honestly amazed you were able to get concavity on wheels witch such a high offset as that’s something I don’t ever see and I’m curious how you were able to make that happen.
Thank for not being secretive and thank you for the perfect explanation.
Great video very Nice Im putting M3 Wheels on my C6 NOW Thanks Man keep it up
Great info! 👍
Love your headlights and your work man! I actually owned a Type R right before my C5Z and i miss it so much had to get rid of it for reasons. And now learning you worked on Hondas is awesome i dont get why people hate on them theyre engineering is top notch and the type r is honestly the best car ive ever driven. Speed isnt everything and alot of people dont understand that. You literally cant explain it till you drive one. Cant wait to see this project completed as im 100% invested and wanna do the same!
I'm workin on it...we are about to gear back up
@KnightDriveTV Perfection is patience. I will stay tuned throughout the way.
gd its beautiful. brake envy wheel envy. learning man, had no idea any of that existed, good to know. need to see if i can find a set of rear z wheels, i am ready for a brake upgrade, mine are disgusting. this is the reason why i take interest in many things, never know when one might inspire or work through another. my pleasure man, keep going. pray for me though im about to try to build my first axle back exhaust.
Do it man, do it...its a great process
@@KnightDriveTV got the stuff ordered, .030 wire hopefully ok.? What gas for stainless?
Looks great sir.
Great video love the wheels 👌
Thank you, in one simple video you answered two questions I've been trying to get accurate answers to for a long time. Did I miss the part of the video where you listed the part numbers for the ring and lug nuts?
What are those lug nuts called? I’m having a hard time finding them
Certainly NOT the crappiest video I've ever seen. Well explained. Damn good looking results as well. Any test miles yet? And those who haven't spent much time behind the wheel of a 90s Honda don't understand how disgustingly well built those cars were and how well they drove. Esp at their price point. Not a car to be hated on, just some of their enthusiasts can be a little.. odd. Same with any car culture.
The miles are coming ahead, once the widebody build begins in October. I have full confidence in them though, there won't be any issues whatsoever. Thanks for watching...keep an eye out for the widebody 3D design/print/build ahead!
Awesome
Great video. I’ve seen confusion over the years on whether or not the C5 has hubcentric or Lugnuts centric wheels.
I’m not aware of any modern car that uses lug-centric wheels.
I absolutely love the look of those Volk wheels....with an aggressive track alignment, (plenty of negative camber) do you think this setup can be run without doing wider fenders while using 315's square?
Also, can you post the Amazon and Ebay links to the hub centric ring and the lug nuts you're using? Keep up the good work,....maybe it's time for air conditioning in the garage, lol.
Aw man...ac in the garage was something I was just talking about. I am thinking of throwing a mini-split in there. I would say, even with max camber you'd be sticking out quite a bit. The track guys/autocross guys will do it and I've seen it done with 315's on lesser offsets but in this case, the widebody would be appropriate. I want to make the components simply because adding frontal area with a front fender, will add a lot of opportunity for downforce/front aero. I am at near max camber just in this video, so under full compression/braking, they'd be hitting everything. To get 315's on there, you have to go with my current square setup of 18x11 et53 and then the tires would just poke big.
b12 plenty of b12 and caffeine. never let the old man in, it can be tough catch myself geezin more often these days.
Smh...
5x120.65 is measured on the diameter of the bolt circle not stud to stud. Other than that I can't wait to see the wide body parts.
I should've clarified but I do this all on the fly of course...but you do measure 5 lug stud to stud (skipping one of course)...you measure from the center of one stud, to the back side of the other. It is the diameter of the circle, but the practical way to measure is stud to stud. So you're correct of course, but so am I...lol.
Where is the P/N for the hub centers and the lugs that can accommodate offset?
Do you have links to the wheels and parts?
I wonder what BMW brake rotors would fit the car bc FCP Euro lifetime warranties them
Conical Lugs ?
What’s the name of the lug Nuts and size ?
THANK YOU! This is incredibly helpful. I have a 1994 C4 and I really wanna get some Enkei Kojins (specifically no.4768951235) and was scared about the lug pattern being 0.65mm smaller than my C4's pattern, as well as realizing the spacing of the hub bores. It sounded like i'd have to measure exactly where to put each wheel centered on each corner which sounds ridiculous! I had no idea about bore spacers and the adjusting lug nuts, so thank you.
Mine was equipped with the aluminum 17x9.5 ZR-1 rims with a 56mm offset on 275/40 tires...and like you, I really like concaveness, so I was wondering if you have any knowledge on whether the Enkei no.4768951235 (18x9.5) with a +35 offset would get me what I need while retaining some amount of flushness with the fenders. I know you're not a C4 guy but I for some reason cannot visualize offset and was hoping you could fill me in on some technical advice.
Actually, I have a 1990 ZR1 and a 1987 Callaway Twin Turbo that I have shown, VERY briefly, on the channel...so I am a C4 guy for sure. In another vid, you can also see.I gave my 1984 4+3 to a friend of mine, and we got her runnin great.
For visualizing offset and widths, I often google search calculators online. This allows you to input the stock wheel size/offset, then input what you want to put on. Itll calculate the exact change, so you know how it'll affect flushness, etc.
Google "wheel offset calculator" and look for the one that shows you a drawn outline of each wheel. It gives all the specs of difference. I use the same type of calculator for tires also. Flushness with a wheel vs flushness with a tire, also matters. Once you know where your wheel is, you have to also get the right tire to make things look right and sit proper.
@@KnightDriveTV fantastic, thank you! I'll also check out our vids with the C4s, I'm a big fan of this generation--as impractical as they are compared to the C5
I dont think the 120.65 have anything to do with USA.
Because Camaro, Firebird and Mustangs have 5x120. Corvette is the only Car in the World, together with Bentley who have 5x120.65.
Whats the front and rear specs
Where is this at? I want to see this C5 Z06 with those wheels.
What’s the brand name of the lug nuts?
After watching the video I went online to see if I could find a set of the te 37s for a c5. It seems like there were a few sources out there that had these model wheels in stock here in the states. My question is will they be 120 mms or the correct 120.65 spacing? Or a better way of asking is, is this an issue inherent in the design and needs to be corrected with these spacers or is this a fitment issue that has since been solved since you purchased yours?
Either way good content. I would have been ignorant of this otherwise.
All the things youre bringing up is something I have spoken about in the video. The TE's made to fit corvettes were 9.5" fronts and 10.5" rears...this is far from whats needed for a capable track setup. There is NO TE37 that fits C5, with 5x120.65 and has 11" widths conducive of a square setup. The square setup is ideal setup for C5, as proven by TT and Optima cars. The offsets for 11" wide wheels were +20 or more, which is wayyyy outside C5 fenders. This is the closest TE that exists, that has potential on a C5 and gives the adequate amount of rubber to be competitive on a road course/autocross scenario. I will have 315 square, TE's, on a C5...cant be done any other way.
@@KnightDriveTV ok now I get it.
Since some wheels onlynfit tuner lugs will 5x120 still be glfine to install with slotted lugs without the wobble? I have seen tuner style with wobble.
Damien, do you have the information on those lug nuts?
Look up Wobble Lug Nuts. I just found them after looking up a lot of different things
Endyn head on the Civic!!!! 💦💦💦💦
hey man do you know what is the name of those lung nuts Thanks for the information to.
9:27 😂
Do they make a wobble lug nut for 14x1.5?
Not sure really...I would assume so
@@KnightDriveTV I couldn’t find them for the life of me. I want these 5x120.7 wheels (they only come in that pattern) for my car which is 5x120.
With my car being high horsepower track car I don’t want to risk safety.
I have a 76 Chevy el camino ( 5x120 lug ) and I’m wondering if a c5 corvette 03 rims ( 5x120.65 lug ) will fit on it ?
Itll just need what I showed in this video to work. Proper backspacing, proper hub bore adapter and the wobble lugs. As long as the c5 wheels have a bigger or identical center bore, it can work
What tires and tire size are you running
315/30/18 on the volks, square all four corners and 295/35/18 square on the black forgestars
Thanks for the video. Can you help us out?
My son has a 2011 bmw 535i (f10) which are 5x120 and Center Bore / Hub Bore: 72.6 mm
Thread Size: M14 x 1.25
Stock offset on 18inch wheels are: 245/45ZR18
8Jx18 ET30 on 18" wheels
and can go up to:
245/35ZR20 95Y fronts
275/30ZR20 97Y rears
8.5Jx20 ET33 fronts
9Jx20 ET44 rears
We found some wheels (NOT Staggered) that are
20inch with a bolt pattern of
5x120.65 and 72.56 mm hub (so the hub looks to be .04 smaller?) And the bolt pattern looks to be .65 more?)
I'm checking into offset right now but this seems terribly close. Can anyone chime in and help me out on potential parts I may need to successfully and safely configure?
How come I’ve heard wobble nuts are dangerous in the past.
I would say a couple reasons. Its the same reason nitrous has a bad reputation...user error. There is nothing wrong with the tool, but the person using it. The hub center ring is very important to center locate the wheel, and used correctly in CONJUNCTION with the wobble nuts. Without the center ring, the wobble nuts will only worsen an ill fitting setup. Also, they have a lateral movement range. If you were to go outside that range, I suspect issues could occur. The fact is though, they are clamping your wheel against the rotor, as long as the wheel.is centered on the hub, there is absolutely no risk there. In this case, the .65mm difference is minimal so....no problems at all.
Those wheels look good on everything lol, no matter what car. 🫡🥹
Amen to that!