I was tempted to use the bonding adhesive for an outdoor project because I have leftovers from a contracted project. I'll be getting the fortifier instead. Thank you very much for explaining the differences, I certainly found it more interesting than Mary! LOL!
Our local stores sell Sika Brand and Akona brand "Bonding Adhesive/ Acrylic Fortifier" as a single product, & only product. I even was trying to look into 'latex" which might be more 'rubbery' / flexible than acrylic (as I am aware that acrylic is more brittle in cold temps. I was hoping latex would have less of such issues). So Sika indicates they sell a 'latex' concrete fortifier product, but if you actually try to find the product at the local box stores, at the top of the page listing it will say "latex" but as you examine the product, it mysteriously morphs into that fact that it is the same acrylic 'fortifier, not latex. If you go to their manufacturing page, it appears they manufacture these different formulas- pva, latex, acrylic, but at the consumer, big box store level, they offer one product & give it one mash up confusing name. I guess it makes the concrete more sticky (bonding) & can serve the fortifying purpose, but It has left me confused because it does not match the manufacturer info.
I've been remodeling homes since 94 and I have never installed commercial carpet tiles on concrete floors. Of course I'll make sure the concrete is clean before I install the carpet with the manufacturer adhesive and I think it will hold well... I'm sometimes an over doier on projects and might prepare the cleaned but 60 year old concrete will something. What I'm proposing is probably over kill although though I would get your thoughts on anything that would seal, or prepare the concrete to accept professional two sided carpet tape... the manufacturer doesn't mention anything about preparing the concrete. Thank you brother for the concrete additive video I've used both for years but didn't realize the issue with moisture
Any tape I would be most concerned with dust. To remove dust on concrete acid wash with 10-1 water and acid and then rinse with some baking soda sprinkled on the concrete, and then shop vac that all dry. As soon as it is fully dried you should be ready to go and there should be almost nothing for surface dust. Just be aware that all this prep work will saturate the slab and I might run heaters and fans for a few days to really dry things up before laying anything over it.
some bonding agents when used as an admix will cause excessive shrinkage (from swelling in high pH). Though to make a bonding agent have a (more?) waterproof bond, you can mix it with half cement-slurry.
Hi Creating concrete! I have a question i make cement white sinks with the pouder pigment design ! What should i use to protect the sink and the pouwder pigment from water and from other stoff! Thank u
Thanks for the info. I have a quick question. Which product makes the concrete stronger or more resilient...and can they be used with plaster of Paris? Thanks again.
Hello Sir, thank you for the explanation. Could you help on an outside tile terrace which is over a garage and leaks. Before replacing cracked joints I am looking for a good binding product to inject as to bind any lose parts underneath the tiles and fix any corroded spaces underneath the tiles. What product would do a good job? Many thanks for any suggestion.
Hi, THANK YOU FOR POSTING your videos. I'm a beekeeper. I thought of gluing three cinderblocks on each other for a beehive stand. What type of concrete glue would you advise? Hawaii is warm for most of the year, so I'm seeking your advice on what type of glue/adhesive I should use. Thank you and very respectfully, M.L.
Confused. The description for each on Home Depot's website state they are used for essential the same things, ie. outdoor use and for water resistance.
Hello, thanks for very nice youtube channel. I have question. I use thinset mortar (also known here in europe as "c2te s1" flexible tile glue). And i am using it as final layer for faux concrete visual effect (also has to be bit durable tho). So far i am happy with the results. I want to seal it using PVA or Acrylic so it does not soak water/wine/coffee/oil/wax in case of accidental spill. Now it seems i am gonna go with mix of cement, PVA and water (slurry without fillers/agregate). Thing is that the thinset already has some powdered glue/fortifier in it which gets activated when i mix it with water. You got me thinking... if that's powdered acrylic, it would be incompatible with PVA right? Do you know i using PVA is ok? Also are there any powdered glues/fortifiers that i can put in my own dry concrete mix (just like thinset manufacturer does)?
Hi, I'm considering capping back porch pad for flush floor surface. About 3" depth at the rear sliding doors. Could I be confident in this depth of a pour using pva with 4k+fiber? Would it still be wise to pre-treat w/Weld-crete? Are either of these products very pricey? Thanks!
Usually 10% by liquid volume, so replace 10% of your water with acrylic fortifier. You can use as much as 50% by liquid volume, but this is normally for making a bonding slurry or pouring an overlay which is extremely thin.
What is good to use to adhere to an already made concrete slab. In wanting to add new pour concrete on top the old to make the slab higher. This is for a back patio
Acrylic slurry made with 50% water and 50% acrylic, mixed to a pancake batter consistency with portland cement. Paint this onto SSD condition existing concrete and apply your new mix before the slurry skins over.
Hello how are you? I have a question and I hope you can help me further. I make bricks from soil and Portland cement. I press these in a machine with 6 tons of pressure and then let them cure for 7 days by getting them wet. They come out fairly hard, but I would like them even harder because over time they will crack. This is probably due to the clay soil that works. I have seen other people use a product that really hardens the bricks and makes them more beautiful and also better resistant to moisture. Could Arcylic fortifier help with this? or anything else you recommend? I mix 4 buckets of ground with 1 bucket of cement, so there is quite a bit of cement in the bricks.
On Acrylic Fortifier by Quikrete it says Do Not Use with Masory Cement. And it also says Do Not Use in conjunction with Bonding Adhesive 9902. I just want to fix some grout that is always cracking at the intersection of a fiberglass shower basin and tile wall, and want it to stick well and be more waterproof so was thinking the Acrylic Fortifier might be a good addition to Polyblend Sanded Grout.
masonry cement would be the wrong stuff. That is what you use for brick laying mortar. It is weaker than portland cement. You would want portland cement. But I think perhaps you are describing a transition in plane. If you are going from a floor to a wall then you can not transition this with grout. To transition plane between two hard surfaces you have to use a flexible sealant like silicone. Grout is never the right thing to use to transition between planes.
@@creatingconcrete so Portland and Masonry Cement are different? Polyblend is Portland. Also, why do they say to not use the Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier together?
@@GlennInLaguna yes portland cement is different than masonry cement. Masonry cement contains lime, air entrainment and portland cement and is weaker than portland cement. The additional ingredients in the masonry cement can react with other admixtures. Bonding adhesive and acrylic fortifier are not compatible products and can react chemically with each other.
Will the acrylic fortifier help make a thin piece (.25" tube) less prone to damage when dropped? (maybe having some flex in it to help resist breakage).
It will, but only to a small degree. Embedded steel would be the only real way to incorporate tensile strength, but perhaps you could explore using fibers, either fiberglass or stranded glass in the mix to also increase tensile strength.
I added some links to Amazon in the description to help you find these products, but Quikrete is not well represented on Amazon. I linked to the acrylic but the PVA I linked to a different brand which I prefer to use. Cheers.
I had to cut part of a concrete slab for the plumbing in a basement (during high rain season the dirt underneath becomes wet, should I make a slurry with acrylic + portland to add on the sides on the old concrete + rebar (with epoxy) and then pour the new concrete in the whole, will it adhere to the sides?
This video is so helpful! Question...I just switched from cement all to hydrostone for my candle vessels. The gentleman at the supply store said I can use the acrylic fortifier in my hydrostone to make it stronger. The rep at quickrete said differently. I made a couple both ways and they mixed fine. Do you know the answer to this?
You can likely use latex, but you have to read the ingredients on the product you are using to know for sure. If it has acrylic or latex already you should be fine. There are many admixtures in products like that and in general you do not need to add your own. Usually you only add your own when you are working with a basic mix design like sand and cement only. Then adding latex is sure to help. Advanced mix designs you buy by the bag are far more likely to have something in there that might conflict with the products you add.
I am not sure about that. The cement all is so heavily modified already I think it likely you could have an interaction between one or more of the admixtures.
I need to pour about 6 inches of concrete on some concrete I poured last week. It's approximately 2 ft x 2ft square (it's outoors)I have quikcrete acrylic fortifier will that work as a bonding agent do I mix it in or brush it on existing concrete ?
Make a bonding slurry with acrylic 50% and water 50% with some portland cement in it. Mixed like cake batter consistency. Apply to old, damp concrete and apply new mix over this right away before it dries or skins over.
I am not sure what you mean. Mortar is portland cement and sand, which you can definitely add acrylic to. If you are using a pre blended mortar you would need to know what (if any) admixtures are already used in that mix design
I would not do that without confirming with Mapei tech support that it will not interfere with the admixtures withitn their product. I suspect it would be a problem
SikaLatex 1 Gal. Concrete Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier……this has both?????? Explain bc u specifically said u cant have both. I know nothing but know more than you. Thats not good.
I didn't even see your dog on the table until they moved. I thought it was a just a piece of dyed concrete drying on the table. Cute dog! 😄
That's what I thought was going to happen!
I was tempted to use the bonding adhesive for an outdoor project because I have leftovers from a contracted project. I'll be getting the fortifier instead. Thank you very much for explaining the differences, I certainly found it more interesting than Mary! LOL!
Yes Mary is hard to entertain. She has heard all my concrete stories already! I am happy this information was helpful for you.
@@creatingconcrete Do you have a instagram account?
I was about to say the same @mixdplate helped me say wait nope the other one hahaha
I think Mary makes the video amazing!
Thank you, and I agree!
More doggo please!
Thanks for the video. It was EXACTLY what I was looking. Clear and concise. Much appreciated.👍
Our local stores sell Sika Brand and Akona brand "Bonding Adhesive/ Acrylic Fortifier" as a single product, & only product. I even was trying to look into 'latex" which might be more 'rubbery' / flexible than acrylic (as I am aware that acrylic is more brittle in cold temps. I was hoping latex would have less of such issues). So Sika indicates they sell a 'latex' concrete fortifier product, but if you actually try to find the product at the local box stores, at the top of the page listing it will say "latex" but as you examine the product, it mysteriously morphs into that fact that it is the same acrylic 'fortifier, not latex. If you go to their manufacturing page, it appears they manufacture these different formulas- pva, latex, acrylic, but at the consumer, big box store level, they offer one product & give it one mash up confusing name. I guess it makes the concrete more sticky (bonding) & can serve the fortifying purpose, but It has left me confused because it does not match the manufacturer info.
I've been remodeling homes since 94 and I have never installed commercial carpet tiles on concrete floors. Of course I'll make sure the concrete is clean before I install the carpet with the manufacturer adhesive and I think it will hold well...
I'm sometimes an over doier on projects and might prepare the cleaned but 60 year old concrete will something. What I'm proposing is probably over kill although though I would get your thoughts on anything that would seal, or prepare the concrete to accept professional two sided carpet tape... the manufacturer doesn't mention anything about preparing the concrete. Thank you brother for the concrete additive video I've used both for years but didn't realize the issue with moisture
Any tape I would be most concerned with dust. To remove dust on concrete acid wash with 10-1 water and acid and then rinse with some baking soda sprinkled on the concrete, and then shop vac that all dry. As soon as it is fully dried you should be ready to go and there should be almost nothing for surface dust. Just be aware that all this prep work will saturate the slab and I might run heaters and fans for a few days to really dry things up before laying anything over it.
@@creatingconcrete Thank you for your response and time
some bonding agents when used as an admix will cause excessive shrinkage (from swelling in high pH). Though to make a bonding agent have a (more?) waterproof bond, you can mix it with half cement-slurry.
Hi Creating concrete! I have a question i make cement white sinks with the pouder pigment design ! What should i use to protect the sink and the pouwder pigment from water and from other stoff! Thank u
Thanks for the info. I have a quick question. Which product makes the concrete stronger or more resilient...and can they be used with plaster of Paris? Thanks again.
Hello Sir, thank you for the explanation. Could you help on an outside tile terrace which is over a garage and leaks. Before replacing cracked joints I am looking for a good binding product to inject as to bind any lose parts underneath the tiles and fix any corroded spaces underneath the tiles. What product would do a good job? Many thanks for any suggestion.
Fabulous explanations. Excellent.
Hi, THANK YOU FOR POSTING your videos.
I'm a beekeeper. I thought of gluing three cinderblocks on each other for a beehive stand. What type of concrete glue would you advise?
Hawaii is warm for most of the year, so I'm seeking your advice on what type of glue/adhesive I should use. Thank you and very respectfully, M.L.
Sakrete makes a combination of both now.
Are these additivess needed for making decorative trays and vases and other home decor items?
Confused. The description for each on Home Depot's website state they are used for essential the same things, ie. outdoor use and for water resistance.
Thank you for this explanation. I want to make a birdbath so this was very helpful!
Hello, thanks for very nice youtube channel. I have question. I use thinset mortar (also known here in europe as "c2te s1" flexible tile glue). And i am using it as final layer for faux concrete visual effect (also has to be bit durable tho). So far i am happy with the results. I want to seal it using PVA or Acrylic so it does not soak water/wine/coffee/oil/wax in case of accidental spill. Now it seems i am gonna go with mix of cement, PVA and water (slurry without fillers/agregate). Thing is that the thinset already has some powdered glue/fortifier in it which gets activated when i mix it with water. You got me thinking... if that's powdered acrylic, it would be incompatible with PVA right? Do you know i using PVA is ok? Also are there any powdered glues/fortifiers that i can put in my own dry concrete mix (just like thinset manufacturer does)?
Pouring floor leveler over an old slab and planning to use adhesive. Can I pour a few days later? or pour as soon as possible?
How can i get in touch with you. I want to formulate an water based Acrylics glue for binding ceramic grits onto metal shingles. Thanks
Hi, I'm considering capping back porch pad for flush floor surface. About 3" depth at the rear sliding doors. Could I be confident in this depth of a pour using pva with 4k+fiber? Would it still be wise to pre-treat w/Weld-crete? Are either of these products very pricey? Thanks!
what is the mixing ratio with water? What's the most I can dilute it? Can I do 1 part fortifier 3 parts water? Thanks in advance!
Usually 10% by liquid volume, so replace 10% of your water with acrylic fortifier. You can use as much as 50% by liquid volume, but this is normally for making a bonding slurry or pouring an overlay which is extremely thin.
What is good to use to adhere to an already made concrete slab. In wanting to add new pour concrete on top the old to make the slab higher. This is for a back patio
Acrylic slurry made with 50% water and 50% acrylic, mixed to a pancake batter consistency with portland cement. Paint this onto SSD condition existing concrete and apply your new mix before the slurry skins over.
Thank you for explaining !
Can you use acrylic to make leveling concrete?
Hello how are you? I have a question and I hope you can help me further. I make bricks from soil and Portland cement. I press these in a machine with 6 tons of pressure and then let them cure for 7 days by getting them wet. They come out fairly hard, but I would like them even harder because over time they will crack. This is probably due to the clay soil that works. I have seen other people use a product that really hardens the bricks and makes them more beautiful and also better resistant to moisture. Could Arcylic fortifier help with this? or anything else you recommend? I mix 4 buckets of ground with 1 bucket of cement, so there is quite a bit of cement in the bricks.
Have you tried cement densenfier
On Acrylic Fortifier by Quikrete it says Do Not Use with Masory Cement. And it also says Do Not Use in conjunction with Bonding Adhesive 9902. I just want to fix some grout that is always cracking at the intersection of a fiberglass shower basin and tile wall, and want it to stick well and be more waterproof so was thinking the Acrylic Fortifier might be a good addition to Polyblend Sanded Grout.
masonry cement would be the wrong stuff. That is what you use for brick laying mortar. It is weaker than portland cement. You would want portland cement. But I think perhaps you are describing a transition in plane. If you are going from a floor to a wall then you can not transition this with grout. To transition plane between two hard surfaces you have to use a flexible sealant like silicone. Grout is never the right thing to use to transition between planes.
@@creatingconcrete so Portland and Masonry Cement are different? Polyblend is Portland. Also, why do they say to not use the Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier together?
@@GlennInLaguna yes portland cement is different than masonry cement. Masonry cement contains lime, air entrainment and portland cement and is weaker than portland cement. The additional ingredients in the masonry cement can react with other admixtures. Bonding adhesive and acrylic fortifier are not compatible products and can react chemically with each other.
Excellent. Very helpful. Thanks. God bless.
Will the acrylic fortifier help make a thin piece (.25" tube) less prone to damage when dropped? (maybe having some flex in it to help resist breakage).
It will, but only to a small degree. Embedded steel would be the only real way to incorporate tensile strength, but perhaps you could explore using fibers, either fiberglass or stranded glass in the mix to also increase tensile strength.
Thank you I bought the right product before I watched your video
Perfect!
thanks for the great video!! Can you add amazon links to both products? thanks again!!
I added some links to Amazon in the description to help you find these products, but Quikrete is not well represented on Amazon. I linked to the acrylic but the PVA I linked to a different brand which I prefer to use. Cheers.
can I mix PVA with cellular concrete?
I had to cut part of a concrete slab for the plumbing in a basement (during high rain season the dirt underneath becomes wet, should I make a slurry with acrylic + portland to add on the sides on the old concrete + rebar (with epoxy) and then pour the new concrete in the whole, will it adhere to the sides?
Yes, slurry the sides of the old slab right before you add your new concrete
유익한 정보 감사합니다.
This video is so helpful! Question...I just switched from cement all to hydrostone for my candle vessels. The gentleman at the supply store said I can use the acrylic fortifier in my hydrostone to make it stronger. The rep at quickrete said differently. I made a couple both ways and they mixed fine. Do you know the answer to this?
You can likely use latex, but you have to read the ingredients on the product you are using to know for sure. If it has acrylic or latex already you should be fine. There are many admixtures in products like that and in general you do not need to add your own. Usually you only add your own when you are working with a basic mix design like sand and cement only. Then adding latex is sure to help. Advanced mix designs you buy by the bag are far more likely to have something in there that might conflict with the products you add.
Hello, can I use acrylic fortifier with Cement All rapid set to make candle containers? what percentage could i use? thank you
I am not sure about that. The cement all is so heavily modified already I think it likely you could have an interaction between one or more of the admixtures.
I need to pour about 6 inches of concrete on some concrete I poured last week. It's approximately 2 ft x 2ft square (it's outoors)I have quikcrete acrylic fortifier will that work as a bonding agent do I mix it in or brush it on existing concrete ?
Make a bonding slurry with acrylic 50% and water 50% with some portland cement in it. Mixed like cake batter consistency. Apply to old, damp concrete and apply new mix over this right away before it dries or skins over.
Huge help
short and sweet
I am happy this was helpful for you
Great video👍
Brilliant!!! thank you!
Hi Mary!
WOOF!
Can you add acrylic into motar instead of portland?
I am not sure what you mean. Mortar is portland cement and sand, which you can definitely add acrylic to. If you are using a pre blended mortar you would need to know what (if any) admixtures are already used in that mix design
Good video
Glad you enjoyed
Loved Mary😘😘😘
ps, Mary is the best part of the video
Anyone know if a acrylic fortifier can be added to mapei 4 to 1 mud bed mix?
I would not do that without confirming with Mapei tech support that it will not interfere with the admixtures withitn their product. I suspect it would be a problem
Then why does SIKA HAVE A BONDING ADHESIVE/ACRYLIC FORTIFER?????
Good question
Isn’t this guy the pool guy
SikaLatex 1 Gal. Concrete Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier……this has both?????? Explain bc u specifically said u cant have both. I know nothing but know more than you. Thats not good.
according to SIKA yes, this videos confused me a bit at first.