Great info! Just curious, have you ever tried adding talcum powder and if so at what proportion? (I do not think it would make it stronger but it may do interesting things to texture??)
This is so incredibly helpful! I have been going back through your videos, and they are terrifically helpful!!! Thank you so much! I have a question about using the superplasticizer or the acrylic fortifier. I am creating sculptures from mop heads made of very absorbent cotton cording, and I am working with Cement All. I need a very runny mix so the cotton cording absorbs the concrete. I am wondering if I should just use the acrylic fortifier as 50% of my water to make a super runny mix or if I should get my hands on one of the superplasticizers you mentioned in a previous video. Any thoughts or suggestions you have would be so appreciated!!
Thank you, man! I was looking such info many years ago, i do not know why the youtube show me your channel just now. 🤔 Such info is very very usefull always. I know that the knowladge of the cements and concretes is a very big science and very important. Would you tell something about reinforstment with fibers. And i would like to ask about can you mix cement + clay( dirt) and foam for making strong air clay bricks without bakeing? 🤔 And a second question: How liquid magnesium( in the water for the mix) reacts with the cement? Is it helps somehow? Thank you very much, i was watching you since last nigth and i am finding your channel very interesting. All the best to you i am wishing you!
Hello sir, I’ve made a thin slab of white cement with no aggregate. Just cement and water. It’s about 1 inch thick and about 4inches square. Might you have any idea how long will it take to dry out completely?
Im not understanding the fine aggregate, because i find that when i used play sand. The fine sand or silt tended to pool to the bottom of barrel and didnt bond well.
Play sand is not recommended for concrete mixes. It has been tumbled, which softens the jagged little edges of the sand grains. These rounded grains do not bond together very well. Use masonry sand instead of play sand, and you should have better results.
Around here we use "concrete mix" from the local quarry, which instead of actual sand uses crusher fines out of the same machines the coarse aggregate comes from. It's structurally very strong and has all fresh hard edges to make really high quality concrete, and it's guilt free - unlike sand, the world is *never* going to run out of volcanic rock deposits.
You may be able to buy mason sand at the same place you buy your play sand currently. That should work better. Moisture content is tricky with DIY mixes also. Because the aggregate, if it is oven dry, will absorb some of the moisture, reducing w/c ratio. So you have to account for that by adding a little extra. Likewise, if the aggregate is still wet, not damp, but wet, then it is going to be a net contributor of moisture to the mix. Ideally, it would be "saturated surface dry." That means the aggregate is dry, but any internal void spaces which can hold water are already full. When the aggregate is in this condition, it will have no effect on the w/c ratio.
Great info! Just curious, have you ever tried adding talcum powder and if so at what proportion? (I do not think it would make it stronger but it may do interesting things to texture??)
This is so incredibly helpful! I have been going back through your videos, and they are terrifically helpful!!! Thank you so much! I have a question about using the superplasticizer or the acrylic fortifier. I am creating sculptures from mop heads made of very absorbent cotton cording, and I am working with Cement All. I need a very runny mix so the cotton cording absorbs the concrete. I am wondering if I should just use the acrylic fortifier as 50% of my water to make a super runny mix or if I should get my hands on one of the superplasticizers you mentioned in a previous video. Any thoughts or suggestions you have would be so appreciated!!
What should the percentage be for these additives?
Can you use beach sand in concrete?
He has a video about kinds of sands to avoid for good concrete
ua-cam.com/video/yH-UkOl6_SM/v-deo.htmlsi=m0F7vWBI0WkRuYri
Thank you, man! I was looking such info many years ago, i do not know why the youtube show me your channel just now. 🤔 Such info is very very usefull always. I know that the knowladge of the cements and concretes is a very big science and very important. Would you tell something about reinforstment with fibers. And i would like to ask about can you mix cement + clay( dirt) and foam for making strong air clay bricks without bakeing? 🤔 And a second question: How liquid magnesium( in the water for the mix) reacts with the cement? Is it helps somehow? Thank you very much, i was watching you since last nigth and i am finding your channel very interesting. All the best to you i am wishing you!
Hello sir, I’ve made a thin slab of white cement with no aggregate. Just cement and water. It’s about 1 inch thick and about 4inches square. Might you have any idea how long will it take to dry out completely?
I always find your videos helpful, you are spot on my friend 🤗🏋️♀️🤺👍☦️
Im not understanding the fine aggregate, because i find that when i used play sand. The fine sand or silt tended to pool to the bottom of barrel and didnt bond well.
Play sand is not recommended for concrete mixes. It has been tumbled, which softens the jagged little edges of the sand grains. These rounded grains do not bond together very well. Use masonry sand instead of play sand, and you should have better results.
Around here we use "concrete mix" from the local quarry, which instead of actual sand uses crusher fines out of the same machines the coarse aggregate comes from. It's structurally very strong and has all fresh hard edges to make really high quality concrete, and it's guilt free - unlike sand, the world is *never* going to run out of volcanic rock deposits.
You may be able to buy mason sand at the same place you buy your play sand currently. That should work better. Moisture content is tricky with DIY mixes also. Because the aggregate, if it is oven dry, will absorb some of the moisture, reducing w/c ratio. So you have to account for that by adding a little extra. Likewise, if the aggregate is still wet, not damp, but wet, then it is going to be a net contributor of moisture to the mix. Ideally, it would be "saturated surface dry." That means the aggregate is dry, but any internal void spaces which can hold water are already full. When the aggregate is in this condition, it will have no effect on the w/c ratio.
I think the play sand is used to form an inner shape🙂forming your mold to put your concrete over if your making your pot upside down.