No Music.... No Family Pets.... No Jokes That Have No Relevance.....Just Right To The Point Good Information.... I Tapped The Like & Subscribe For Those Simple Reasons.... Take Note UA-cam Video Posters!
This is an excellent example of a proper "how to" presentation - very informative, easy to understand, no unnecessary chit chat or attempts at humour. Thanks ever so much!!
I had to look ALL OVER for this info. THANK YOU! Seven to one muriatic acid and then dampen down and then bonding slurry. Ugh! You’re the only one giving these steps in an easy to follow steps. THANK YOU
After acid you wither need to wash it like 10 times to neutralize the pH, or just wash it with TSP after acid washing it and this will stop the concrete from being super acidic which would likely cause a patch failure some point in the future
Not in structural compression or shear only for cover applications. Still considered a "cold joint" as per ACI ASCE etc. No white glue or any organic based material is ever allowed in any certified job... There are products engineered for this .
@@arthurdavis3365 I have question if U don’t mind. There is a vault of a friend that the headstone was knocked over and cracked, the concrete top. I’m no concrete man by far but have used sealants that don’t hold up well. I was thinking fill crack which is pretty big it split the concrete top and fill with foam then come over with a mortar of some type. I realize it won’t look great but I’m trying to stop rain water from entering vault... it seems the immediate family isn’t going to do anything and I’m limited to what I can do. Thanks for any suggestions!!!
I've been building, repairing and servicing gunite swimming pools for 23 years yet I'm still learning so much watching your videos. These are great tips that will come in handy with my everyday job. Thanks a ton Steve.
I've done many patches in the last 45 years. You got it. Be sure your slurry is still tacky when you put your new concrete down. I patched a floor in 1977 it's still holding.
Excellent you added the point he skipped. Awesome. In adding a glass stepping design in top , what could I pour over too to give a protective clear coat ? Would well bond on top work do you think, or do they make an acrylic clear over coat for concrete ??
@Mike Palacios It means that slurry is still wet. You mix it and apply it to the old concrete and then apply your new concrete right away before the slurry becomes dry.
On my own I came up with a similar method that worked. Of course clean the old concrete thoroughly (I used only water and a wire brush). Wet it down again. Mix your wet concrete and slurry at the same time. The slurry is a liquidy combination of portland cement and water. Apply the slurry to the old, wet concrete. Then I vigorously WIRE BRUSH the slurry into the old concrete, in essence, trying to force the slurry into its pores. Pour the new concrete immediately, before the slurry shows any signs of drying. This worked for me under some pretty severe flooding conditions - no failure or delamination. Glad to hear I wasn't too far off in my method.
Good video and a good way to patch non structural concrete. 40 years experience and a 3rd gen in the concrete field. The best patch I ever did was with chipping the old concrete to expose new face. Then wet and use a Cementisious epoxy. Apply epoxy let set like you said then use a high quality patch material. All these products you get from either a construction specialty store or a concrete specialty. I did this on a sidewalk gutter drain corner of a road. Large trucks continually drove over this which lead it to crack and chip off. After the patch it was still good 5 years later with heavy traffic. I am still suprised that it worked that well.
Excellent video. Sometimes muriatic acid isn't possible to use and can be dangerous. You can also scarify the concrete using a grinder with a cupwheel. If you're working inside, a vacuum attachment shroud can be used on the grinder. A slurry of tile thinset mortar can also be used as a bonder between the new and old concrete. It's important that the slurry is still wet when you put the new concrete down.
Steve, at last I found you, a person who speaks intelligently and very clearly, and explains and articulates the situation with clarity and precision. I love your delivery. It's really succinct and right to the point and doesn't leave any room for uncertainty. Thank you so much. You're a young guy, but you seem so experienced and knowledgeable. Thanks you!
Back in the 90's I often did exactly as Steve explained, sort of. I would make a mix of Burke bonder (or Dymalite, depending on the color I was looking for) and water and saturate the concrete. Then I would put dry Portland in a burlap sack and "slap" the prepared surface leaving a thin layer. Spritz that layer with more Burke and water and repeat. When the coating was thick enough I left it alone for a few then buffed it with the Portland bag as it went off. The final finish shined like a freshly sealed shop floor with an eye-catching swirl pattern. Haven't thought of that in years, thanks. Subbed.
The terminology that's missing is "bonding agent" and it's commonly available. (I suspect that it may actually be glorified white glue.) It's used by painting it onto clean concrete (critical point of yours) and applying new concrete or mortar to it. I've had good results with it. It can also separately be used as an additive to the concrete's water mix to enhance the integrity of the concrete. (Not as an alternative to applying bonding agent to an old surface.) Another technique for bonding new concrete to old is by scrubbing the new concrete into the surface of the old concrete with a stiff brush before finishing the repair normally. That also does the trick. Great video, thank you.
good video Steve .... right to the point ..... didn't spend 10 minutes telling us everything you did this morning ..... "How to patch concrete , but first , this is my kitchen table , I got it at a garage sale yesterday ..... blah blah blah"
This was added to my suggested videos on my UA-cam home page. I don't own a swimming pool, but I do have a concrete driveway and garage floor. I will save this video so hopefully, I can find it again when and if I ever have to repair any of my concrete. Thank you for the tips.
Thanks for commenting. I figured that youtube must be showing this video to a lot of people since the views went up from a few hundred per day to a peak of just over 10,000 in a 24 hour period. When looking at the video analytics you can see like a light switch turning on when youtube decides to start showing it as a recommended video because the viewers suddenly increase by orders or magnitude.
Excellent video, perfect for the layman or experienced contractor alike, don't miss a step here. This is critical for any concrete fill work where you have to add new concrete to existing. In my case, during initial foundation plumbing pipe-set for a slab, the plumber missed a few floor drains and set other pipes in the wrong place, so when it came time for plumbing rough-in, The plumber had to break up a lot of concrete. This video was perfect for detailing how the concrete should be replaced in those holes to ensure a strong bond and continuity.
Do not use white glue/pva because it can re-emulsify under wet conditions. It needs to be an SBR Latex additive mixed with the cement. Best way is to scabble/gouge the surface with a chisel point to give it a roughness, acid wash, high pressure clean, use some form of 316 SS anchor/pins fixed to the existing substrate with resin, dampen the surface, use the slurry mix brushed on thick immediately prior to laying the new concrete.For best results use a polymer modified concrete patching compound with the same brand of primer. After poured use a concrete curing compound sprayed over the repair following manufacturers directions, or cover with a plastic sheet 👍
If you ask me this is by far the best repair technique that I could think of I was about to suggest the underpinning and gouging and or dovetailing but yes indeed you are spot on!
If you have to skip the slurry, due to a lack of pure portland, the concrete adhesive or thinned PVA glue can be brushed directly onto the wet/damp surface that you intend to bond to. Apply your first skim coat before the PVA dries.
*Thank you very much for sharing your wisdom !!!* Allow me to ask: 1. After acidifying the old surface, do you need to wait for some time before proceeding to the next step (wetting it thoroughly)? If yes, then for how long? 2. What is the *ratio of Portland cement: water: white glue ?*
Something to mention just because some people don't know this, apply your final patch cement immediately after apply applying the slurry. Don't let the slurry dry at all.
Rock solid advice. I have gone by Steve’s advice and used his concrete bonding videos as a guideline for all of my pool repairs and so far they have lasted soo much longer than the methods used previously before seeing his videos. His advice applies to any concrete related repair when it comes to bonding old concrete to new. Thanks for the informative videos, Steve. And hope you are doing well 🤝
Very helpful. I was going to put new concrete onto my dry shower floor. I watched this right before I started and will be sure to dampen the old concrete
IMPORTANT UPDATE - This video is a simplified explanation of how to bond concrete. In response to how popular this video is I created a much deeper article about concrete bonding, using many of the comments and products mentioned in the comments here. PLEASE READ the full article: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/bond-concrete.html This video is suddenly getting a lot of views. Here is a question that was asked by quite a few people so far - WHEN do you apply the new concrete? Do you let the slurry set up or slurry then concrete right away. Here is the answer I gave to someone else down further in the comments: Do NOT let the bonding slurry set. If it sets, you need to add more bonding slurry and wet it up again, so try not to let that happen. On a technical note, if I were to describe the PERFECT situation, it would not be putting concrete over wet slurry either. If you had to err on the side of caution, add the new cement over wet slurry, never dry, but the magic middle zone is to watch the slurry. When you apply it, it looks wet. Sheen even. The perfect time to apply the new layer of concrete is when the slurry begins to have a haze look, as opposed to wet sheen. This is the ideal point at which to add the patch. NEVER over dry slurry though so be careful.
@@kamleshverma9761 I don't understand your question. Solid concrete working fundamentals apply regardless of the season or climate. If you are asking about optimal environment for doing this work, certainly cooler and damp is better than hot and dry.
I work for a place that hires modular formwork and we sell that bonding stuff. Customers get it on the plywood and it's almost impossible to get off without destroying the black film on the plywood.
@@OffGridInvestor You bet - it is a universal bonding agent which basically allows you to glue anything to anything - within reason. Glue glass together even! The bond on wood, much like with wood glue, creates a joint between two planed surfaces that is essentially as strong as one piece of wood. For this concrete bonding slurry you actually don't use very much. However much water you would be using just use 10% less water and make up that difference with Weldbond. It really is not just gluing concrete, but it does make a difference with how sticky the mix is, and how well it bonds. Further to this, for any other people reading this in the comments here, this is not my special trick or anything - a bonding slurry with Weldbond is the industry accepted practice for bonding new concrete to old concrete...that is unless you are like me and own a shotcrete company because then you can bond with shotcrete and no intermediary layer required and there is ZERO cold joint even under labratory conditions. If you don't want to spend $30,000 on a gunite rig then your next best option is this slurry. Thanks for reading and be sure to subscribe!
yes, Concrete Bond, it's PVA glue but it has a very small amount of dishwashing soap to make it suds up when painting it onto the concrete prior to the concrete being joined. This also helps it cling to the concrete and not just run off. I used to build 100,000 gal concrete water tanks and the boss only mixed a slurry of Portland cement and water to pour over the center joint of the floor. We would lay 25 tons on one half and the next day the other 25 tons and the slurry in between. You're looking at 384,000 kgs of water weight over this joint.
I used pressure washer to clean the concrete. After i used PVA glue mixed with water, an brushed the concrete. After that, i mixed the leftover pva/water with tile adhesive, and used a tiling trowel like when you apply a thinset for tiles. That's where i poured the new concrete. Only 25mm not more. (0-8 sand) the cement was slow set, PC42 and i even added some sugar as a retardant. Seems like its a very similar method that you have explained here. PVA is rocks! :D
In some cases, instead of acid washing, mechanically abrading with a wire brushes, or grinding the concrete can expose clean material, that can them be vacuumed and washed to prepare for a slurry. Thanks for the video!
Usually, a talking head approach is not effective; however, you made it work. You explained it so well in a forward moving yet repetitive fashion that it stuck!!!
That's how we patch small divots on our state bridges, great job. For large repairs, epoxy rebar into the existing concrete making sure there's the specified rebar clearances.
@@mar4380 basically the space between the rebar and the existing concrete and also the distance of the rebar from the outer edge of the concrete. The idea being that new concrete or slurry should surround the rebar at a specified distance. That distance varies depending on the application.
The surface can then be prepared using one of a variety of methods, including acid etching, sand blasting, shot blasting, scarifying, or bush hammering. In most cases, the rougher the prepared substrate, the better the bond. Two kinds of polyvinyl acetate (PVA) bonding agents I know of are re-emulsifiable and non-re-emulsifiable. White and Yellow Carpenter's glue respectively. White is not recommended for outdoors or damp situations but even Carpenter's glue is not exactly impervious to water either and is only "resistant". That said, I use acrylics, SBR, latex-modified, or epoxy depending on the situation and would never advise otherwise. It is more important to me to have a product designed for that use and with a proven track record.
Been using this type of slurry, I use white glue and cement apply it to a regular plywood box. I filled one of this box with water and it's been sitting there with the water in it for a year without any structural deformation or water laekage. Your slurry can also bond cement to wood.
I agree with everything you say, however as to PVA glue (white glue) there are two types one is of which is permanent set or waterproof, for use in heavy water saturation applications, the other is water soluble that will deteriorate when wet.
The information was both educational and helpful. However, I am a visual learner. A video showing how to do this would have held my attention better thus helping me to understand better.
I came across this totally by accident. Couldn't have been better timing. My employer was approached by a concrete company that wanted to put a poly sealer on his heated driveway. It's a pretty big driveway....5300' sq. It is heated to prevent winter ice and would be uber expensive to replace if it doesn't bond well. I am the property manager and have held off. It would be well into the $50k and up price range to fix that. Thanks for the insight and info. i KNOW our concrete guy said he would apply this product to clean but DRY existing cement and the deepest it would get would be about 1/8" or so. I am not convinced they can make it stick "forever" and the existing driveway doesn't look that bad. I DO like the idea of white glue slurry. That just makes sense.
Great, straight-to-the-point video. I'm just a self-taught handyman around the house, and I've very successfully used a latex concrete additive for patching and building up concrete surfaces using about 1/3 additive to 2/3 water and topping compound. After I mix up enough patching material for the job I pour a small amount of the additive/water mix on top and stir it around into the top of the mix to form a loose slurry, which I then trowel onto the surface I'm patching or building up and then use a cheap stiff-bristle brush to scrub it well on the surface so it'll bond, then the rest of the material for that area/spot. I then trowel that back-and-forth to get it to mix with the slurry layer and finish as the task requires. If the area was oily or obviously dirty I would want to clean that kind of stuff away first. Doing more than about an inch thick I had to do it in layers. I used the latex additive because I just figured having a bit of flexibility would be a good thing as long as I had it well-bonded to the substrate. About 5 years ago I had to recountour most of a 12'x12' concrete patio to get it to drain the right direction and the poured-concrete steps that led up to it, which all sloped noticeably to inside corners. The layers have held up perfectly and did not delaminate from the substrate so far. I'm in the UP of Michigan. I have to do this in larger-scale in my garage, and will definitely use the acid idea for the final clean on the surface since many decades of cars have been dripping oil on that floor!
Use TSP and a wire brush for oil before you use the acid. If super baked in do a soak with varsol to pull up the oil, then rinse, then TSP, then rinse, then acid wash, then TSP (I secretly work for TSP, apparently) and that is the best you will do for deep soaked oil concrete preparation for bonding a new layer. Or chip that old junk out and pour a thicker top coat. Your latex and water mix is right on the money for a super strong and oil / chemical resistant concrete bond that will not fail under constant water immersion. There are more than one way to do things and I would say your method is somewhere between the method disussed for DIY handy people, and how a professional concrete worker might approach the mix and slurry design. Cheers.
I use an acrylic latex bonding agent that has been around since the 60's. It really works great and its inexpensive . You treat the concrete surface to be repaired with diluted Muratic acid, rinse it off then put some bonding agent in some water brush it on the concrete to be repaired. You can then add some of it to a slurry brush it on . Then apply the mix for the resurface / crack fill. Portland and sand mix add a little bonding agent to that with the water then apply to cracks then resurface let it dry and it works great. It sticks like crazy and looks great for years. Put some sealer on it to help it last and resist salt. I use fiberglass drywall tape strips for some cracks stuffed in the crack with a putty knife sometimes if it is over 1/4 inch wide.
Do exactly what Steve has said, but once you have filled the void, tampit down plenty to compact the mix into the space. Finish off by drawing the tamp stick across the space, levelling it off. Then finish by trowelling it to a smooth finish. I have done this on jobs and done properly it will not peel out from the surrounding concrete.
This is literally the issue I'm facing, and you've answered the query beautifully. Thank you tons! I feel confident enough to tackle the problem. Well done. Great video :)
Well done! I do some concrete work (General Contractor) and I will remember this. Also, good job not blowing your own horn at the beginning and end of your video! You got right to the point!
I was wondering if I can ask a question. I have a concrete patio that has 3 old peeling layers of peeling paint. I'm looking for an inexpensive way to beautify the concrete. Do u think I can apply a layer of epoxy or bondo on peeling paint, let harden, add 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of concrete paint I will have a lasting finish?
I was in the industry for many years, what I always found fascinating was if a bit of mortar, concrete or paint whatever got somewhere accidentally. It sets then you try to remove it....no chance. But when you really try to do something right...it fails. Life??
Thanks for this. I'm going to attempt to add a brick ledge to a 12' long wall. Have some ideas to make sure the ledge stays in place and strong. I think your advice will give me a better than average chance of success. Thanks
It would work better than nothing, but for under water you should not use PVA, but instead use latex acrylic to make the bonding slurry, like in this video: ua-cam.com/video/DA-fCRRxYCw/v-deo.html
After using marantic acid, you rinse with TSP or Ammonia to neutralize the surface back to a neutral PH of 7. Other wise the acetic PH of the surface will interfere with the bonding. Period. Don't forget to neutralize after using Marantic wash solution.
In most cases the concrete is beyond repair, fixing it would be temporary. The concrete beneath your patch job will most likely continue to deteriorate. A home owner can only hope it can be fixed, but your method is probably there best chance at prolonging the inevitable.
I agree with the majority of things you said. However bridge engineers use a specialised wet-to-dry epoxy applied to the suitably scabbled dry old surface.
It sounds like the slurry necessary to attach pottery clay together. This is one more new thing I have learned about how to work with concrete since 2021. I have a 10x23 ft patio and a 65 ft long sidewalk that I paid over 11K for that was installed in 2021 with a stamped colored topping on the patio that has been deteriorating at a record pace, it seems to me, since it was finished. There was already a large crack across the sidewalk cement before the contractor even left the premises. Multiple sections of the edges either fell completely off and there were pieces of the topping missing in some places where he had cut the cement. The stamped pattern has footprints in it that hold onto water - so the freeze/thaw process set in with a vengeance. It was not sealed before winter hit. I called him back this spring to fix the cracked section of walk and showed him all the broken edges and holes in the sidewalk that had happened over the winter. More has broken off over this year. He said he would fix the sidewalk this summer. It's not done. My son sealed the patio portion this last weekend with 2 coats rolled on and is applying a 3rd this evening. He and a couple of his friends in the contracting trade are going to fix the cracked section of walkway themselves as, once again, the contractor I used has not fixed it. He did come over in the early spring and cut it loose but never came back. When I tried to get in touch with him last week to get him to come fix that he sent me an e-mail stating he was going to be out of town until the 24th and it was getting too cold to do cement because it was freezing at night. It's still in the mid to high 40's here at night until the week of the 23rd and daytime temps are over 50 degrees. I will never use him for anything again nor am I recommending him to anyone. I'm planning on having the entire patio smoothed out in another couple of years when I can afford it again and a new top put on it. Meanwhile I'm going to use the heck out of it.
Are you fixing a hole or rebuilding the structure? With a topping layer I do not believe that you would want to go any thinner than 1/2" but this is called an overlay and is different than fixing a pothole in a concrete driverway, for example. Overlays need to be modified with acrylic latex and I would not want to use a latex modified topping mix with a PVA based slurry like in this video. Better to use an acrylic slurry with an acrylic topping mix...but for overlays, again this is a specialty process and different from patching concrete. I suspect epoxy based adhesives would be the recommendation of engineers.
@D Mills We are mighty pissed off, you cant even spell colour you call a podger an Irish spanner, you call a split pin a cotter pin, god only knows what you call an actual cotter pin. Chips become fries and what you call chips we call crisps, trunk for boot, you put light switches up, we put them down, you wear your pants on the outside, we wear them on the inside. And I have to add lol :/)
Scabble the surface, flush the dust with plain water, dab treated surface so it is only damp, then apply new concrete. No chemicals, no corrosion, no nuetralisation worries.
Correct. Absolutely correct. Elmer's glue all. Who knew?! (Poly Vinyl Acetate) We always clean with TSP, a dilute muriatic acid, dampen really wet then his slurry. Works well.
Pro Tip: just before cement patch hardens, be absolutely certain to scribe it with your initials and the date as well as the initials of your crew members.
@P. Chretien Odds are they are already screwing you over in some way so you might as well let them tramp stamp their initials on your ass while they're at it.
@@russianbot4418 Like the company that poured a concrete slab to widen neighbors driveway? They placed a 6" x 6" wire mesh on top of the stone base. I watched from across the street thinking " I bet they won't lift the mesh to middle of new pour..." Answer...of course not. Signed engineering tech.
Clean area well, pressure wash or acid wash Muriatic acid 7 /1 water mix. Old concrete must be wet/ damp Bonding slurry...Portland powder and water, no gravel or sand, use well bond...or white glue. Till like warm butter and paint it onto old clean damp concrete.
No Music.... No Family Pets.... No Jokes That Have No Relevance.....Just Right To The Point Good Information.... I Tapped The Like & Subscribe For Those Simple Reasons.... Take Note UA-cam Video Posters!
Cheers, thank you
Dude explained the instructions better than watching actual vid tutorials. Your thought process and info delivery is insanely clear
This is an excellent example of a proper "how to" presentation - very informative, easy to understand, no unnecessary chit chat or attempts at humour. Thanks ever so much!!
And no dam blaring guitar at the beginning !
It absolutely is. I've got it bookmarked for use as an example to show students.
I agree. To the point and informative. Thank you.
Yes, very good. Clear instruction with no "filler" chit, chat.
Unnecessary attempts at humor? Wow you sound like you’re fun to be around 🙄
I had to look ALL OVER for this info. THANK YOU! Seven to one muriatic acid and then dampen down and then bonding slurry. Ugh! You’re the only one giving these steps in an easy to follow steps. THANK YOU
After acid you wither need to wash it like 10 times to neutralize the pH, or just wash it with TSP after acid washing it and this will stop the concrete from being super acidic which would likely cause a patch failure some point in the future
As a structural engineer who has worked in concrete industry I can verify the information as accurate and succinct!
***Thanks***
Not in structural compression or shear only for cover applications.
Still considered a "cold joint" as per ACI ASCE etc.
No white glue or any organic based material is ever allowed in any certified job...
There are products engineered for this .
Hello Steve thanks for sharing your knowledge, could anyone please advise on whether same technique could be used for spalled concrete ceilings ?
@@arthurdavis3365 I have question if U don’t mind. There is a vault of a friend that the headstone was knocked over and cracked, the concrete top. I’m no concrete man by far but have used sealants that don’t hold up well. I was thinking fill crack which is pretty big it split the concrete top and fill with foam then come over with a mortar of some type. I realize it won’t look great but I’m trying to stop rain water from entering vault... it seems the immediate family isn’t going to do anything and I’m limited to what I can do. Thanks for any suggestions!!!
My hero...
I've done your method on stucco and it works.
I've been building, repairing and servicing gunite swimming pools for 23 years yet I'm still learning so much watching your videos. These are great tips that will come in handy with my everyday job. Thanks a ton Steve.
Since your an expert what type of in ground pool is best for northeast climates?
Vinyl liner ?
Thanks
Great video!!! Every video to help some1 should be less than 5 minutes like this.
Except the ones REALLY explaining rocket science.
I've done many patches in the last 45 years. You got it. Be sure your slurry is still tacky when you put your new concrete down. I patched a floor in 1977 it's still holding.
Excellent you added the point he skipped. Awesome. In adding a glass stepping design in top , what could I pour over too to give a protective clear coat ? Would well bond on top work do you think, or do they make an acrylic clear over coat for concrete ??
@Mike Palacios It means that slurry is still wet. You mix it and apply it to the old concrete and then apply your new concrete right away before the slurry becomes dry.
@Mike Palacios my thoughts as well
@@Swimmingpoolsteve How much glue?
He's a bad man in a good way , listening and doing it the way this gentleman said , you can't go wrong .
On my own I came up with a similar method that worked. Of course clean the old concrete thoroughly (I used only water and a wire brush). Wet it down again. Mix your wet concrete and slurry at the same time. The slurry is a liquidy combination of portland cement and water. Apply the slurry to the old, wet concrete. Then I vigorously WIRE BRUSH the slurry into the old concrete, in essence, trying to force the slurry into its pores. Pour the new concrete immediately, before the slurry shows any signs of drying.
This worked for me under some pretty severe flooding conditions - no failure or delamination. Glad to hear I wasn't too far off in my method.
Good video and a good way to patch non structural concrete. 40 years experience and a 3rd gen in the concrete field. The best patch I ever did was with chipping the old concrete to expose new face. Then wet and use a Cementisious epoxy. Apply epoxy let set like you said then use a high quality patch material. All these products you get from either a construction specialty store or a concrete specialty.
I did this on a sidewalk gutter drain corner of a road. Large trucks continually drove over this which lead it to crack and chip off. After the patch it was still good 5 years later with heavy traffic. I am still suprised that it worked that well.
that is good info about your patch success - thanks for commenting
Straight forward, quick, clear. Holy cow, a rarity on youtube. Thanks.
I am a contractor, you killed it Steve, well done!
SwimmingPoolSteve born from ScubaSteve?
Excellent video. Sometimes muriatic acid isn't possible to use and can be dangerous. You can also scarify the concrete using a grinder with a cupwheel. If you're working inside, a vacuum attachment shroud can be used on the grinder. A slurry of tile thinset mortar can also be used as a bonder between the new and old concrete. It's important that the slurry is still wet when you put the new concrete down.
Steve, at last I found you, a person who speaks intelligently and very clearly, and explains and articulates the situation with clarity and precision. I love your delivery. It's really succinct and right to the point and doesn't leave any room for uncertainty. Thank you so much. You're a young guy, but you seem so experienced and knowledgeable. Thanks you!
Back in the 90's I often did exactly as Steve explained, sort of. I would make a mix of Burke bonder (or Dymalite, depending on the color I was looking for) and water and saturate the concrete. Then I would put dry Portland in a burlap sack and "slap" the prepared surface leaving a thin layer. Spritz that layer with more Burke and water and repeat. When the coating was thick enough I left it alone for a few then buffed it with the Portland bag as it went off. The final finish shined like a freshly sealed shop floor with an eye-catching swirl pattern. Haven't thought of that in years, thanks. Subbed.
Thankyou so so so much . I have failed many a times doing bonding but now I got the know- how . ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ From Kerala, India.
The terminology that's missing is "bonding agent" and it's commonly available. (I suspect that it may actually be glorified white glue.) It's used by painting it onto clean concrete (critical point of yours) and applying new concrete or mortar to it. I've had good results with it. It can also separately be used as an additive to the concrete's water mix to enhance the integrity of the concrete. (Not as an alternative to applying bonding agent to an old surface.) Another technique for bonding new concrete to old is by scrubbing the new concrete into the surface of the old concrete with a stiff brush before finishing the repair normally. That also does the trick. Great video, thank you.
Yep, multi bond here in NZ. Awesome for tiles or anything you wanna make stick
Thank you so much!.me and My old man have been faffing on trying to repair a small patch on our house.what a relief to have found you .
Very good informative video ....& no stupid rapp musics playing...thanks you sir
good video Steve .... right to the point ..... didn't spend 10 minutes telling us everything you did this morning ..... "How to patch concrete , but first , this is my kitchen table , I got it at a garage sale yesterday ..... blah blah blah"
Excellent job on this video. Clear, concise, to the point and no BS or comedy attempts.
This was added to my suggested videos on my UA-cam home page. I don't own a swimming pool, but I do have a concrete driveway and garage floor. I will save this video so hopefully, I can find it again when and if I ever have to repair any of my concrete. Thank you for the tips.
Thanks for commenting. I figured that youtube must be showing this video to a lot of people since the views went up from a few hundred per day to a peak of just over 10,000 in a 24 hour period. When looking at the video analytics you can see like a light switch turning on when youtube decides to start showing it as a recommended video because the viewers suddenly increase by orders or magnitude.
Excellent video, perfect for the layman or experienced contractor alike, don't miss a step here. This is critical for any concrete fill work where you have to add new concrete to existing. In my case, during initial foundation plumbing pipe-set for a slab, the plumber missed a few floor drains and set other pipes in the wrong place, so when it came time for plumbing rough-in, The plumber had to break up a lot of concrete. This video was perfect for detailing how the concrete should be replaced in those holes to ensure a strong bond and continuity.
This is by far the quickest most professional video I have ever seen. And, I watch 100+ videos a day. LOL Thank you friend
Kudos to you for this informative and targeted video! And thanks for not turning this into a 20-minute rambling video like some UA-camrs do
Exactly!
All "how to" videos should be this good. Nicely done- thank you
Do not use white glue/pva because it can re-emulsify under wet conditions. It needs to be an SBR Latex additive mixed with the cement. Best way is to scabble/gouge the surface with a chisel point to give it a roughness, acid wash, high pressure clean, use some form of 316 SS anchor/pins fixed to the existing substrate with resin, dampen the surface, use the slurry mix brushed on thick immediately prior to laying the new concrete.For best results use a polymer modified concrete patching compound with the same brand of primer. After poured use a concrete curing compound sprayed over the repair following manufacturers directions, or cover with a plastic sheet 👍
If you ask me this is by far the best repair technique that I could think of I was about to suggest the underpinning and gouging and or dovetailing but yes indeed you are spot on!
Well presented Have to restore old steps and i think your way is the most thorough Regards from NZ
If you have to skip the slurry, due to a lack of pure portland, the concrete adhesive or thinned PVA glue can be brushed directly onto the wet/damp surface that you intend to bond to. Apply your first skim coat before the PVA dries.
Jeez, this is one of the best 'how-to' videos on here ... almost makes me want to go and smash up the patio a little bit just so I can go and fix it
*Thank you very much for sharing your wisdom !!!*
Allow me to ask:
1. After acidifying the old surface, do you need to wait for some time before proceeding to the next step (wetting it thoroughly)? If yes, then for how long?
2. What is the *ratio of Portland cement: water: white glue ?*
Please read the full article that contains this information here: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/bond-concrete.html
I always heard that this ever works. But nowadays it’s possible products can make it happen. I like your theory.
Something to mention just because some people don't know this, apply your final patch cement immediately after apply applying the slurry. Don't let the slurry dry at all.
You answered the very question that popped into my head when the video ended, thank you!
Thankyou I was looking for this exact question to be answered appreciated
Yup.
Thanks! last bit of info i needed
That was my 1st question..thanks!
Rock solid advice. I have gone by Steve’s advice and used his concrete bonding videos as a guideline for all of my pool repairs and so far they have lasted soo much longer than the methods used previously before seeing his videos. His advice applies to any concrete related repair when it comes to bonding old concrete to new. Thanks for the informative videos, Steve. And hope you are doing well 🤝
By far one of the best how-to videos I've seen on UA-cam. Clear and concise. A big thumbs up.
Very helpful. I was going to put new concrete onto my dry shower floor. I watched this right before I started and will be sure to dampen the old concrete
So muriatic acid, damp and slurry with glue before concrete. Got it.
And thank you for getting straight to the point.
I really like how right to the point you are. Very efficient ! Other youtubers might want to take tips on how to give a how to.
IMPORTANT UPDATE - This video is a simplified explanation of how to bond concrete. In response to how popular this video is I created a much deeper article about concrete bonding, using many of the comments and products mentioned in the comments here. PLEASE READ the full article: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/bond-concrete.html
This video is suddenly getting a lot of views. Here is a question that was asked by quite a few people so far - WHEN do you apply the new concrete? Do you let the slurry set up or slurry then concrete right away. Here is the answer I gave to someone else down further in the comments:
Do NOT let the bonding slurry set. If it sets, you need to add more bonding slurry and wet it up again, so try not to let that happen. On a technical note, if I were to describe the PERFECT situation, it would not be putting concrete over wet slurry either. If you had to err on the side of caution, add the new cement over wet slurry, never dry, but the magic middle zone is to watch the slurry. When you apply it, it looks wet. Sheen even. The perfect time to apply the new layer of concrete is when the slurry begins to have a haze look, as opposed to wet sheen. This is the ideal point at which to add the patch. NEVER over dry slurry though so be careful.
When It is more effective in summer or rainy season?
@@kamleshverma9761 I don't understand your question. Solid concrete working fundamentals apply regardless of the season or climate. If you are asking about optimal environment for doing this work, certainly cooler and damp is better than hot and dry.
I work for a place that hires modular formwork and we sell that bonding stuff. Customers get it on the plywood and it's almost impossible to get off without destroying the black film on the plywood.
@@OffGridInvestor You bet - it is a universal bonding agent which basically allows you to glue anything to anything - within reason. Glue glass together even! The bond on wood, much like with wood glue, creates a joint between two planed surfaces that is essentially as strong as one piece of wood. For this concrete bonding slurry you actually don't use very much. However much water you would be using just use 10% less water and make up that difference with Weldbond. It really is not just gluing concrete, but it does make a difference with how sticky the mix is, and how well it bonds. Further to this, for any other people reading this in the comments here, this is not my special trick or anything - a bonding slurry with Weldbond is the industry accepted practice for bonding new concrete to old concrete...that is unless you are like me and own a shotcrete company because then you can bond with shotcrete and no intermediary layer required and there is ZERO cold joint even under labratory conditions. If you don't want to spend $30,000 on a gunite rig then your next best option is this slurry. Thanks for reading and be sure to subscribe!
Swimming Pool Steve utter rubbish u forgot to cut and pva
yes, Concrete Bond, it's PVA glue but it has a very small amount of dishwashing soap to make it suds up when painting it onto the concrete prior to the concrete being joined. This also helps it cling to the concrete and not just run off. I used to build 100,000 gal concrete water tanks and the boss only mixed a slurry of Portland cement and water to pour over the center joint of the floor. We would lay 25 tons on one half and the next day the other 25 tons and the slurry in between. You're looking at 384,000 kgs of water weight over this joint.
My old father used white glue in concrete he poured 60 years ago and it's still good!
I used pressure washer to clean the concrete. After i used PVA glue mixed with water, an brushed the concrete. After that, i mixed the leftover pva/water with tile adhesive, and used a tiling trowel like when you apply a thinset for tiles. That's where i poured the new concrete. Only 25mm not more. (0-8 sand) the cement was slow set, PC42 and i even added some sugar as a retardant. Seems like its a very similar method that you have explained here. PVA is rocks! :D
In some cases, instead of acid washing, mechanically abrading with a wire brushes, or grinding the concrete can expose clean material, that can them be vacuumed and washed to prepare for a slurry. Thanks for the video!
My dad taught me the WeldBond trick many, many years ago. It really does work!
Usually, a talking head approach is not effective; however, you made it work. You explained it so well in a forward moving yet repetitive fashion that it stuck!!!
That's what I was looking for excellent information without going around the bushes.congrsts
That's how we patch small divots on our state bridges, great job. For large repairs, epoxy rebar into the existing concrete making sure there's the specified rebar clearances.
What are rebar clearances?
@@mar4380 basically the space between the rebar and the existing concrete and also the distance of the rebar from the outer edge of the concrete. The idea being that new concrete or slurry should surround the rebar at a specified distance.
That distance varies depending on the application.
Home Depot also sells a polymer to mix up to help. I like the use of the slurry you mention.
You’re a good teacher! Clear instructions and repetition. Great video. Thanks
The surface can then be prepared using one of a variety of methods, including acid etching, sand blasting, shot blasting, scarifying, or bush hammering. In most cases, the rougher the prepared substrate, the better the bond.
Two kinds of polyvinyl acetate (PVA) bonding agents I know of are re-emulsifiable and non-re-emulsifiable. White and Yellow Carpenter's glue respectively. White is not recommended for outdoors or damp situations but even Carpenter's glue is not exactly impervious to water either and is only "resistant".
That said, I use acrylics, SBR, latex-modified, or epoxy depending on the situation and would never advise otherwise. It is more important to me to have a product designed for that use and with a proven track record.
Been using this type of slurry, I use white glue and cement apply it to a regular plywood box. I filled one of this box with water and it's been sitting there with the water in it for a year without any structural deformation or water laekage. Your slurry can also bond cement to wood.
I use a good high quality polymer modified thinset for my slurry and have had great success.
Thanks for repeating the instructions once or twice during your video, I'm not as quick as I used to be .
Blast my gizzard!
I agree with everything you say, however as to PVA glue (white glue) there are two types one is of which is permanent set or waterproof, for use in heavy water saturation applications, the other is water soluble that will deteriorate when wet.
...so which one to use?
The information was both educational and helpful. However, I am a visual learner. A video showing how to do this would have held my attention better thus helping me to understand better.
Clear concise and no nonsense, excellent. Thank you.
Explained in an easy to understand manner, I just subscribed. Thank You!
Great advice. I would add, don't let the slurry dry before installing your concrete.
True. It seems obvious, but, many people don't even
Dumb and dumber if you mix glue with the slurry and let it dry it's not porus any my more nothing to bond to.
I came across this totally by accident. Couldn't have been better timing. My employer was approached by a concrete company that wanted to put a poly sealer on his heated driveway. It's a pretty big driveway....5300' sq. It is heated to prevent winter ice and would be uber expensive to replace if it doesn't bond well. I am the property manager and have held off. It would be well into the $50k and up price range to fix that. Thanks for the insight and info. i KNOW our concrete guy said he would apply this product to clean but DRY existing cement and the deepest it would get would be about 1/8" or so. I am not convinced they can make it stick "forever" and the existing driveway doesn't look that bad. I DO like the idea of white glue slurry. That just makes sense.
Most informational video I've seen yet on concrete bonding old to new... thank you
yes, I agree with the positive comments. Very clear and to the point. 9.5 out of 10
In California, we use a bushing hammer to rough up the old concrete and then epoxy in rebar to connect the old to new pours.
Great, straight-to-the-point video. I'm just a self-taught handyman around the house, and I've very successfully used a latex concrete additive for patching and building up concrete surfaces using about 1/3 additive to 2/3 water and topping compound. After I mix up enough patching material for the job I pour a small amount of the additive/water mix on top and stir it around into the top of the mix to form a loose slurry, which I then trowel onto the surface I'm patching or building up and then use a cheap stiff-bristle brush to scrub it well on the surface so it'll bond, then the rest of the material for that area/spot. I then trowel that back-and-forth to get it to mix with the slurry layer and finish as the task requires. If the area was oily or obviously dirty I would want to clean that kind of stuff away first. Doing more than about an inch thick I had to do it in layers. I used the latex additive because I just figured having a bit of flexibility would be a good thing as long as I had it well-bonded to the substrate.
About 5 years ago I had to recountour most of a 12'x12' concrete patio to get it to drain the right direction and the poured-concrete steps that led up to it, which all sloped noticeably to inside corners. The layers have held up perfectly and did not delaminate from the substrate so far. I'm in the UP of Michigan. I have to do this in larger-scale in my garage, and will definitely use the acid idea for the final clean on the surface since many decades of cars have been dripping oil on that floor!
Use TSP and a wire brush for oil before you use the acid. If super baked in do a soak with varsol to pull up the oil, then rinse, then TSP, then rinse, then acid wash, then TSP (I secretly work for TSP, apparently) and that is the best you will do for deep soaked oil concrete preparation for bonding a new layer. Or chip that old junk out and pour a thicker top coat. Your latex and water mix is right on the money for a super strong and oil / chemical resistant concrete bond that will not fail under constant water immersion. There are more than one way to do things and I would say your method is somewhere between the method disussed for DIY handy people, and how a professional concrete worker might approach the mix and slurry design. Cheers.
The new old school look = respect,Steve.
Your videos are solid !
Thank you :)
Nice and concise, without tons of extraneous yak. How few do that !
i agree with your advice. An uncle of mine plastered over hollow tile and it's lasted 40+ yrs. with polyvinylacetate
this is one of the best informative video on concrete. great foundation to build on. thank you
I started a new channel dedicated to concrete. Check out Creating Concrete m.ua-cam.com/channels/sMwEHaO1PWN_FyNMBXeJTA.html
I use an acrylic latex bonding agent that has been around since the 60's. It really works great and its inexpensive . You treat the concrete surface to be repaired with diluted Muratic acid, rinse it off then put some bonding agent in some water brush it on the concrete to be repaired. You can then add some of it to a slurry brush it on . Then apply the mix for the resurface / crack fill. Portland and sand mix add a little bonding agent to that with the water then apply to cracks then resurface let it dry and it works great. It sticks like crazy and looks great for years. Put some sealer on it to help it last and resist salt. I use fiberglass drywall tape strips for some cracks stuffed in the crack with a putty knife sometimes if it is over 1/4 inch wide.
I wrote a more detailed follow up article here that includes info on the latex acrylic options: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/bond-concrete.html
Do exactly what Steve has said, but once you have filled the void, tampit down plenty to compact the mix into the space. Finish off by drawing the tamp stick across the space, levelling it off. Then finish by trowelling it to a smooth finish. I have done this on jobs and done properly it will not peel out from the surrounding concrete.
This is literally the issue I'm facing, and you've answered the query beautifully. Thank you tons! I feel confident enough to tackle the problem. Well done. Great video :)
great video. right to the point with no ads.
Well done! I do some concrete work (General Contractor) and I will remember this. Also, good job not blowing your own horn at the beginning and end of your video! You got right to the point!
I was wondering if I can ask a question. I have a concrete patio that has 3 old peeling layers of peeling paint. I'm looking for an inexpensive way to beautify the concrete. Do u think I can apply a layer of epoxy or bondo on peeling paint, let harden, add 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of concrete paint I will have a lasting finish?
Excellent and short video, direct and to the point.
I was in the industry for many years, what I always found fascinating was if a bit of mortar, concrete or paint whatever got somewhere accidentally. It sets then you try to remove it....no chance. But when you really try to do something right...it fails.
Life??
In the UK its called sods law
I have a chip of Bremerton Washington kerb permanently embedded in my arm from exactly that.
Great video. I particularly like the visual aids you provide, demonstrating the process.
Very well explained. Thanks for sharing professional information.
I am happy this info was helpful for you. Cheers.
Thanks for this. I'm going to attempt to add a brick ledge to a 12' long wall. Have some ideas to make sure the ledge stays in place and strong. I think your advice will give me a better than average chance of success. Thanks
Hello does this work for a concrete pool?i was told to add mortar before applying the glass tile on the top of the pool..Thank you
It would work better than nothing, but for under water you should not use PVA, but instead use latex acrylic to make the bonding slurry, like in this video: ua-cam.com/video/DA-fCRRxYCw/v-deo.html
This is the information I am looking for. You have explained this clearly. I definately going to try this. Thank you so much sir. I salute you.
I was going to say, PVA white glue every time with concrete...works a charm!
Thanks dude, saved me a trip to the store plus a better job
After using marantic acid, you rinse with TSP or Ammonia to neutralize the surface back to a neutral PH of 7. Other wise the acetic PH of the surface will interfere with the bonding. Period. Don't forget to neutralize after using Marantic wash solution.
Marantic acid? Ammonia (NH3)??
*Acetic* PH???
Marantic acid, again?
My heart...
@ You forgot to inhale deeply during the process
@ to much to handle? Then simply just hire a pro....!:-)
Very good. Thanks. Your "slurry" prep coat sounds like a very inexpensive alternative to adhesive "primers".
In most cases the concrete is beyond repair, fixing it would be temporary. The concrete beneath your patch job will most likely continue to deteriorate. A home owner can only hope it can be fixed, but your method is probably there best chance at prolonging the inevitable.
I agree with the majority of things you said. However bridge engineers use a specialised wet-to-dry epoxy applied to the suitably scabbled dry old surface.
Acid wash work very well with vinegar mixed w a little bit of dish soap.
@Oftin Wong .... I don't give Q that I did not test myself. It works !
Come back in 20 years and let us know. lol
It sounds like the slurry necessary to attach pottery clay together. This is one more new thing I have learned about how to work with concrete since 2021. I have a 10x23 ft patio and a 65 ft long sidewalk that I paid over 11K for that was installed in 2021 with a stamped colored topping on the patio that has been deteriorating at a record pace, it seems to me, since it was finished. There was already a large crack across the sidewalk cement before the contractor even left the premises. Multiple sections of the edges either fell completely off and there were pieces of the topping missing in some places where he had cut the cement. The stamped pattern has footprints in it that hold onto water - so the freeze/thaw process set in with a vengeance. It was not sealed before winter hit. I called him back this spring to fix the cracked section of walk and showed him all the broken edges and holes in the sidewalk that had happened over the winter. More has broken off over this year. He said he would fix the sidewalk this summer. It's not done. My son sealed the patio portion this last weekend with 2 coats rolled on and is applying a 3rd this evening. He and a couple of his friends in the contracting trade are going to fix the cracked section of walkway themselves as, once again, the contractor I used has not fixed it. He did come over in the early spring and cut it loose but never came back. When I tried to get in touch with him last week to get him to come fix that he sent me an e-mail stating he was going to be out of town until the 24th and it was getting too cold to do cement because it was freezing at night. It's still in the mid to high 40's here at night until the week of the 23rd and daytime temps are over 50 degrees. I will never use him for anything again nor am I recommending him to anyone. I'm planning on having the entire patio smoothed out in another couple of years when I can afford it again and a new top put on it. Meanwhile I'm going to use the heck out of it.
Hey Steve. How thicker should the new layer of concrete be in order to NOT crack - considering it’s a driveway?
Are you fixing a hole or rebuilding the structure? With a topping layer I do not believe that you would want to go any thinner than 1/2" but this is called an overlay and is different than fixing a pothole in a concrete driverway, for example. Overlays need to be modified with acrylic latex and I would not want to use a latex modified topping mix with a PVA based slurry like in this video. Better to use an acrylic slurry with an acrylic topping mix...but for overlays, again this is a specialty process and different from patching concrete. I suspect epoxy based adhesives would be the recommendation of engineers.
Really appreciate your video. This was just the information I was looking for. Thx u
Muriatic acid = Hydrochloric acid .
Portland = cement.
White glue = PVA = (polyvinylacetate).
If you are interested in more technical breakdowns of bonding agents please read the full article: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/bond-concrete.html
Oh, come on people, I thought you only changed the name of football to soccer, now you are messing up with the hydrochloric acid name? 😁 Why?
@D Mills We are mighty pissed off, you cant even spell colour you call a podger an Irish spanner, you call a split pin a cotter pin, god only knows what you call an actual cotter pin. Chips become fries and what you call chips we call crisps, trunk for boot, you put light switches up, we put them down, you wear your pants on the outside, we wear them on the inside. And I have to add lol :/)
@@MrHughk1 But you chaps (folks) drive on the wrong side of the road.
@D Mills Fuck you, I was just joining in the joke but you turned out to be a fuckwit.
Very good and correct information. The same goes for painting concrete, it must be clean and must be slightly damp.
Scabble the surface, flush the dust with plain water, dab treated surface so it is only damp, then apply new concrete. No chemicals, no corrosion, no nuetralisation worries.
Correct. Absolutely correct. Elmer's glue all. Who knew?!
(Poly Vinyl Acetate)
We always clean with TSP, a dilute muriatic acid, dampen really wet then his slurry.
Works well.
Pro Tip:
just before cement patch hardens, be absolutely certain to scribe it with your initials and the date as well as the initials of your crew members.
P. Chretien Take it easy Bobby...it’s called “sarcasm”!
@P. Chretien Odds are they are already screwing you over in some way so you might as well let them tramp stamp their initials on your ass while they're at it.
@@russianbot4418 Like the company that poured a concrete slab to widen neighbors driveway?
They placed a 6" x 6" wire mesh on top of the stone base. I watched from across the street thinking " I bet they won't lift the mesh to middle of new pour..."
Answer...of course not.
Signed engineering tech.
i like seen old date on concrete
I think a cat paw print sets it off nicely
Just got the recommendation for this today. Fantastic video. Concise and covers everything!
Clean area well, pressure wash or acid wash Muriatic acid 7 /1 water mix.
Old concrete must be wet/ damp
Bonding slurry...Portland powder and water, no gravel or sand, use well bond...or white glue. Till like warm butter and paint it onto old clean damp concrete.
Thanks for the valuable information! You ROCK!!!
Precise and concise! Bravo for such a well rounded out explanation all in one take!