Roosa Master / Stanadyne 2030 JD Injection Pump Installation
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- Опубліковано 5 січ 2021
- Installing the refurbished injection pump onto the 2030 JD tractor. This is the part 2 of 2 videos for removing and reinstalling the pump. Follow these steps for a successful installation of your Stanadyne / Roosa Master injection pump onto your 2030 JD tractor. I hope you enjoy this video and that it may help you in some way. Good luck and best wishes!
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had my pump on my 185 allis rebuilt, Got the old parts from the pump back.the old brass center came back with the parts so i cut the old brass center in half and shortend it bout an inch buffed the corners with some fine sand papper then lubbed it clamped those rubber o rings with that and slid the pump on . worked pretty slick.
I've spent many hours finding and watching UA-cam videos on the Roosa Master pump removal, overhaul, and reinstall. Your presentation of removal and reinstall is by far the best of all the examples I was able to find. I removed, replaced the seals, and reinstalled the pump on my JD450CC crawler/dozer with success. Thank you so very much for taking the time and effort that went into this video. I'm a grateful fan.
Thanks so much. It makes me glad that I could assist in some small way!
Disregard my previous question. You answered it in a previous post. Thanks for your great video.
Thank you for producing such a great video, Very informative!
I have to echo the thanks for your all your effort and knowledge in providing the best and most complete removal and installation of a rotary fuel pump (particularly the Roosa Master). I must admit I watched the pump installation video at least 4 to 5 times. I had a no start problem with my '67 580CK w/188 engine, that a nephew and I troubleshot to the being the fuel pump. I was nervous after watching your videos and another from a fuel pump rebuilder, with the chance of nicking/lipping the umbrella seals, when to cut the wire holding the throttle open and getting reinstalled and correctly timed. You clearly have tremendous experience and meticulous work habits working with these pumps. THANK You !!! I also liked your magnetic strip for holding tools while working on equipment. Great idea. I seem to always try to balance tools all over the tractor. And I have to agree you on your use of the Stanadyne tool for installing the umbrella seals. I could only find the seal compressing tool, which I got and could not use, given the location of the pump. Frankly your approach of working the seal with your fingers and scribe was better. I did get the seals on with out tool, but using the tool would have made that job much easier and less never racking. Thanks again!
Thanks so much for your kind compliments. I wanted to show as much as I could for folks, so they could do it properly! Best wishes to you!
Thanks for the informative video. Installing stanodyne pump on 1974 jd450c loader when weather clears.
Best wishes, and hoping for a successful fix.
This is the best instruction anywhere for these pumps!
I am impressed!
You are a patient, master teacher!
And I have just subscribed to your channel!
Thank you! Does it show? I was a Pre-tech coordinator for Bosch, and rep for Stanadyne in their train the trainer program. I started working pumps and injectors back in 1971, retiring in 2017.
thanks for the video great job 👍🏻
Thank you!
Perfect instruction! Bravo
Great video...Thank You!
Thanks for the time and effort you made to provide this video. Haven't had a problem with my 2030 until today when the power just bled down and the engine died. Thought right away that it needed a new fuel filter and replaced it. Started up, idled about 30 seconds, bled down and died.
From what I've been able to find out, it sounds like the injection pump is the culprit..... Where did you obtain the Stanadyne 13369 seal installation tool? Again--thanks. Nice job!
Yes, those are the classic symptoms of a broken governor weight retainer flex ring. Particles of that ring are being broken up and are clogging the return fitting coming out of the top of the pump. When it builds up too much housing pressure it will not allow the plungers to Pump Fuel to the cylinders so it loses power, slows down, barely idles and can emit blue exhaust smoke.
Go to your Stanadyne fuel injection repair facility, they should sell you one, or call Blue Ridge Diesel Injection, Inc. 540-389-7296. They will be happy to ship it to you. The seal pliers are part no. 13371, they help to keep you from flipping the seal over and destroying a new pump pilot tube after it is repaired. If you flip the first seal over, you can also get fuel into your crankcase engine oil, costing more $$$. The right tools make the job easier. Best wishes and thanks! Let me know if you have any more questions.
The pin which fits into the depression or hole in the flywheel is actually the opposite end of and made onto the head of the threaded bolt which holds the small timing cover on the flywheel housing. Remove the pin/bolt combo, turn it around, and the pointed pin will fall into the flywheel recess when the engine is at TDC on either cylinder 1 or number 4. Of course you want to be on #1 compression stroke. Easy way to tell where you are is to remove the pump side cover. When the marks are aligned inside the timing window of the pump, look into the pilot tube of the pump, and find the dot in the slot that the pump driveshaft fits into. Index the dot in the pump with the dot on the driveshaft so that the timing marks in the window will line up when the pump is slid onto the shaft, and you've got the engine on #1 TDC.
@@cumminsdieselgt Following your excellent video instructions, I've successfully removed and re-installed my 2030 injection pump! The shop that performed the rebuild gave me the option of tweaking the calibration to boost the horsepower and of using a different set up that eliminates the use of the flex ring. Although I did purchase the 13371 seal pliers, I found it was easier to massage it into place as you did in your video. The injection technician recommended monitoring the crankcase oil level when first using the tractor to make sure that umbrella seal didn't fold over. What a sweet sound when all injector lines had been bled and tightened and the engine started up! Again, many thanks!
@@Mezmar165 Congratulations! Glad you had success doing it yourself! And I am so happy I could help! Hope it will all work well and provide years of good service! Thanks for your compliments!
I need the tool also
Thanks for the video. On both sides of the banjo fittings are those the supplied rubber washers or copper washers? When I removed my pump on the 570A grader it had both copper and rubber washers on both sides. Thanks for the informative video, really helped out.
Those washers are to be steel washers of the correct material to not only provide proper sealing, but also a controlled amount of compression. If the banjo screw were to bottom out in the threaded bore, then it could lock the head and rotor of the pump and destroy the pump. Be sure to be only use only the genuine Stanadyne part for these banjo washers. In my career, I have seen all types of things people tried to use, and usually damaging more than they fixed by using an incorrect part.
I'm watching your video from three years ago and I have the same JD Roosa pump installation that I'm trying to complete after rebuilding the pump with a new weight basket. At the point you have the pump close to the mounting surface you run into difficulty getting the pump to go all the way in. It's held off about 1/8th of an inch. What did you do to get the pump to flush up with the mounting surface? You skipped that part in the video.
I had a friend videoing me do this. And I'm sorry he didn't have the camera on for that part. Here's a brief explanation.
I put the washers on the mounting studs, and started the nuts onto the studs. I've turned them up finger tight against the pump mounting flange. After I made sure that I was lined up properly (in time), I made sure I had lubrication on the o-ring around the pilot tube, then slightly turned the pump back and forth while pushing it into the engine. When the pump went flush against the engine mounting surface, then I was able to "finger tighten" the nuts to the pump, make my final timing adjustments, and tighten the pump mounting nuts.
You don't want to force the pump into the engine by using the nuts to pull the pump up flush against the engine. If It is not exactly in time, it can damage the pump by possibly breaking the front housing of the pump, or causing internal damage to the injection pump.
As long as you know the only thing holding the pump back is the pump mounting o-ring, you can snug the nuts up little by little and you should be okay.
Thank you!!
@@aliasrex9183 I do hope that helps in some way. Best wishes and good luck to get it running great again.
When you put the pin in the flywheel how can you be certain it's on the compression stroke instead of the exhaust stroke? 180 degrees out in other words?
If you put the pin in the flywheel before you remove the pump, then you simply line up the lines in the window of the side of the injection pump first when the pin goes in. Then you will be on top dead center compression stroke number one cylinder. If your injection pump has already been removed, and you don't know if the engine is at TDC number one, you can remove the valve cover and make sure that the number one cylinder rocker arms are free (proper valve lash is evident) when the pin goes in the flywheel.
Another way is to remove the number one injector, put your finger over the hole and listen for compression coming out of the hole when you're turning the engine over just before the pin goes in.
Finally, if you have your injection pump, with the throttle lever tied in WOT position, remove the side cover and use a CLEAN, wide bladed screwdriver to carefully rotate the pump until the lines index up in the pump side timing window. Look into the pilot tube of the pump to see where the dot is indexed in the slot. You must have the drive shaft indexed in the same "clock" so that the pump will go on and keep the lines lined up in the side window of the pump. If not, rotate the engine 360° to get the dot on the drive shaft to line up with the dot inside the pump. Then the pump will go on, and the timing lines in the side window will stay indexed.
@@cumminsdieselgt ok thanks
You forgot to remind us to take pin out of flywheel before starting it. James M
Yes, I did, but after it goes into the notch, if you crank it over, it will push back out and end up under the engine undamaged. JD designed it that way for a reason. Sorry I failed to mention that pointed pin!
Hey so I have a John deere 4020 and when I time the engine TDC with the mark on the flywheel and mark on the bell housing the injection pump timing marks are not quite lined up. Can you pull the pump with the marks not quite lined up? Or do you go off of the pump window marks instead of the flywheel marks?
How far apart are they? And why are they not in alignment? I would have to do some investigating as to why after having the pump properly calibrated. If the crankshaft is on TDC #1 cylinder on compression stroke, it is OK to go ahead and remove the pump. When I put the pump back on, I would align the marks in the pump properly, and check out engine operation from there. Someone could have just missed the marks when they installed it before possibly.
It’s only about 1/16” away and I need to pull the valve cover just to make sure #1 is on compression stroke. The tractor has sit for 4 years without being started and it’s rusty in that inspection window. The engine is pretty wore out and it used to smoke a lot when we used it.
@@jessewallin3935 Good idea to be absolutely sure.
This was very informative. @cumminsdieselgt , I'm trying to install on a 2640 deere. At the 15 min mark or so you rattle the pump around a bit trying to get it all the way onto the shaft, and then the camera cuts off, and when you cut it back on the pump is all the way on. Is there a trick there or am I just not holding my mouth right? Both shaft at TDC and pump with timing mark centered are at about 11 oclock, but for the life if me I can't get the pump that last 1/2" up on the shaft.
I'm getting ready to do another video on another Deere tractor.
But meanwhile, just, be sure that the throttle is still tied wide open. Next check to make sure that the driveshaft will go all the way into the pump by making sure the opening in the pump is clear and the governor thrust sleeve is centered in the bore. Then make certain the driveshaft seal is not "lipped" over in order to prevent fuel from getting in the crankcase, and from damage occurring to the pump's bronze pilot tube. Be sure the shaft and slot in the pump are timed so that the slot on the shaft will index into the dot in the slot.
You may have to wiggle the pump a bit to get the slot to index with the tang on the driveshaft, and at the same time get the o-ring around the front pump pilot to go into the pump mounting pilot on the timing case. It takes a bit of patience and diligence, but you can get it.
@@cumminsdieselgt so "hold your mouth right" LOL. I've been careful with the umbrella seals, throttle is wired back from the rebuilder. Getting the pump up all the way onto the shaft is the issue, and I think it's getting that shaft end lined up in the slot. The shaft coming out of the engine is a bit floppy and that makes it difficult as well to work the pump around to try to get it to slide into place. Thanks for the reply. I'll keep messing with it and keep an eye out for your next video!
@@jeepwm69 I guess that would be a good plan. Patience and remembering that the shaft has to be a tight fit to properly keep the pump in time to the engine.
@@cumminsdieselgt Pretty sure I got it on this morning. Didn't have time to bleed the system completely, so will try that after work and see if it runs. I got the pump lined up and was fairly certain the shaft was lined up in the pump, but I still couldn't get the pump to slide into the case. Turning the pump on the shaft saw the timing marks move, so I gently snugged a nut on there and used it to pull the pump flange ring into the gear case. Didn't take much pressure at all to do it, and after the flange was up flat against the gear cover, I was able to move the pump back and forth, line up the timing marks, and snug it down. Looks like it wasn't the shaft/pump lining up that was the issue, it was just the pump flange surface and Oring was really tight fit in the drive gear casing. Thanks for your help!
@@jeepwm69 Yes, it can be a bit of a bear at times! Sounds like you got it though....Good work....
Do you have to set up advanced timing after every rebuild?
When the pump is being calibrated on the test stand after being overhauled, ne of the specifications require that the advance mechanism is adjusted at the proper RPM for the proper degrees of advance with the proper throttle percentage. Then once you get the pump back after calibration, it performs as it did when new. No further advance adjustments should be made to the pump.
I’m trying to find info on a international 806 wheatland. I believe they have the same injection pump, I think the shaft seals on ours is bad, I’m getting diesel in the oil.
Can you look to see if it is a Roosa Master injection pump on the tag on the side of the pump? Or a CAV pump made under license from Roosa Master? Don't scrape paint off of the tag, as it is aluminum and you could damage the numbers on it. Use CRC gasket remover spray, rubber gloves, and a rag to dissolve the paint off the tag leaving the information intact.
I will check today when I head back out there! Thanks
This is what the pump tag says :
Roosa master
DBGFC 637••3DH
783511 610689•C91
@@DIY-Dave Yep! That's the correct info. Does this engine have a diaphragm mechanical fuel lift pump mounted on the block? Could be that. If not, you can follow the same instructions in this video, open the side cover plate of the pump and see if you have any black specks behind that gasket. If you do then the pump needs to come off and be repaired. Just line up the timing lines in the window of the pump by turning the engine around in the proper direction of rotation, stopping when the lines are perfectly lined up. Do not move the engine while the pump is off.
I have seen some pieces of broken weight retainer pieces plug the return fittings, and then the build up of housing pressure causes the seals to wear grooves in the pilot tube of the pump, allowing fuel to bypass the seals. Just saying, it could be more than just the seals. Inspect it carefully.
No it doesn’t have a lift pump. My last question would be where to get the seals. I will probably try tackling the project this week if I can find the seals. Thank you so much for the help!
Good job where do you get that seal guide tube ? Would like to purchase one !
The part number for the "Sputnik" (we used to call it that because it looked like a rocket ship)😅, is Stanadyne number 13369. The pliers that clamp down on the drive shaft seals to assist installation into the pilot tube of the pump is part number 13371. You possibly can find them online. Extra drive shaft seals are part number 10453. Hope that helps
Exactly how did you turn the motor? I need to do this to my father-in-law’s tractor.
Just push the fan?
@@ericeller9750 yes, be sure to turn the engine in the direction of rotation so that you're not going backwards. You do not take up any backlash in the timing gears of the engine by going backwards. So always turn the engine in direction of rotation, and I use a gloved hand on the fan blade while pulling on the fan belt to hold it tightly on the pulleys.
I just did this job on a 76 jd 2440. You need to use a flywheel turning tool which will run you around $300. If you have little to no compression on the engine then you can turn engine over to line up timing marks of pump by hand. The flywheel turn tool goes in where the flywheel pin stop goes and you use a ratchet to turn engine easily. It will make you life 20x easier than trying to fight it by hand.
excellent video thank you for sharing
How to increase the injection dose in this pump?
It can be done easily, if you have super clean conditions and proper tools. But you won't be able to know how much additional fuel you will add without putting the pump on a calibration test stand. To perform best and prevent very high exhaust temps, just turning the fuel delivery up also impacts injection timing negatively without calibrating the fuel and advance together. Why do you want to turn it up?
Do I have to rotate the engine to top dead center? Because I don't know how to find it on a International Harvester 606. lol!
With the side window of the pump removed, you can rotate the engine around until the timing marks line up in the window of the pump. Then you might try to tie your throttle wide open with a wire and see if you can remove the pump. Some Internationals you have to pull the driveshaft from the gear train but I would need to know the pump number first
@@cumminsdieselgt Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to install a Roosa Master DBG pump. I can install the pump to the drive shaft fine. I can then rotate the engine until I see the cam timing mark (Mark towards radiator fan) shows up through the timing window on the pump fine too, but I have NO CLUE if I'm TDC (Top Dead Center). I mean, I assume I am if the pump is level to the ground and the cam timing mark is in the center of the timing window, but I hate assuming. At 17:43 I see how and when you found your TDC. Can I skip that step seeing as how I can't find out how to find TDC on a IH 606?
@@jhoodied4861 Well, it sounds like the pump was removed before aligning the timing marks in the pump window. That would mean, you don't really know that the engine was set in the correct position to reinstall the pump. Think of this pump as nothing but a hydraulic distributor. Much like the distributor on your car, you've got to have an index Mark to know where to put the distributor back on and get it in time. If you have the driveshafts aligned dot-to-dot you have half of the battle over with, Now, we have to get the engine set on the static timing they call for. What model tractor do you have?
@@jhoodied4861 so if you have a 606 or a 656 I'm hoping your engine would be a d282 series. If that is the case some of them were about three degrees before top dead center on the crankshaft and then you line the marks on the pump up and Titan the pump down. If the pump shaft in the pump is dot to dot, with the side window off, turn the engine in the proper direction of rotation by hand until you see the line coming up in the pump. Stop turning the crankshaft pulley at 3 degrees before top dead center. Then tighten the pump down with the marks aligned in the side window.
@@cumminsdieselgt Again, thanks for your help. Yes, you are correct on the engine type and you're correct about setting it 3° BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) on the IH 606. It's just that I don't see any TDC line(s) on the crank pully to match up to the point that comes off on the engine block to get to TDC. According to the manual I have, there's supposed to be a line for TDC, 3° BTDC, and possible 5° BTDC on the crank pully. I really don't want to have to take the alternator and fan off just to see if scrubbing down the side of the cranky pully MIGHT! reveal some sort of TDC line. I'm not sure where to go from here, so I might be SOL.