Your video saved me, I was discouraged and never would of realized the 2 pumping plungers existed and how it works, mine must have been seized up so I ressurected it.
Warren, the hand sure take a beating in the mechanics trade, just part of the job. This will kick the old guys ass later in life. Hands of a working man. Thanks for the video on this pump.
Thank you so much for making this video! I broke off the throttle lever on my 1976 Case 480c construction king and was faced with buying a new injection pump or fix the one I had. Found out that I could replace the rod and wanted to see what to expect. This video is awesome!! Thanks again brother!
Thank you for all your videos. I was a marine repairman and I changed jobs. I had been missing the great dealing of solving trouble with machines. I found your vedios and have been able to enjoy the great since of repairing the machine and staying clean at the same time. You do outstanding work. I wish you all the best. Jesse
thanks to your two educational videos I rebulit my 6 cly JD induction pump Roosamaster. Updated weight cage new bushing new vane pump assembly ect ect. Installed it and with the help of a gasoline soaked rag started right up runs just perfect. thx again
Thank you for making this video as well as all the other ones. Every time we had one of these pumps give us a problem, it cost us between $500-700. Just took one apart today and resealed thanks in part to your video! Total cost: $37
Hello Sir. I understand how busy you guys stay. I have a Massey Ferguson 50A backhoe I hoped I had gotten a good deal on.and I wish the pump had been that clean. Mine was full of Sludge under the top cap. It's a DAV type. Had water half way up the lower part. The rest had went inside the motor. Because I believed what the seller told me I tried to start it. I think it messed up all the injectors has it pumped just enough to move the dirt/dried fuel . To say the least parts are putting a hurting on my wallet. : ) May has well laugh about it. Thank you Sir All my best from Tennessee.
Thank u very much for this husband has a case 450 d dozer he put metering spring in wrong so now when he gets home he can fix it right to get us up running again thank you ❤
I have a '96 JD 410D with a Stanadyne pump. It's a little different than the one you have here but close enough. I started losing power where it would free rev then pull back in RPM and absolutely no power to run any hydraulics, etc. I replaced the secondary filter, cleaned the siphon and thought about working on the injector pump next.. that is until I watched this video. I've since decided to leave this to someone who knows what the hell they are doing because if I took it apart it would have to go back in my junk pile. I wish you were my neighbor.
Take care of your hands with diesel you in the long term can get problems with your skin!! My brother worked 40 years with diesel engines and he get big problems with skin in his hands. So take care. Love your videos!!
Just wanted to say thanks! I was able to re-seal my Roosa Master on my 74 JD1530 from watching your video. I'm a subscriber now! A little worried about that half moon clip on my throttle body...it's shaped in a way that my engine cut off uses it to close off the fuel supply and the first few times I tested it the tension popped it off. I gave it a little squeeze and put it back on. If it comes loose at least I'm confident I can take it back apart and fix it! Thanks again.
Dear Mr. Grease, There sure ain't no mechanics around like You any more. Would bet Your as busy "as a cat covering". Those walking beams sure are a JOB. Off road is tough on them. Thank You for the video. Sincerely, Kathleen.
I made six trips to get a compartment latch from Warren Cat in Tulsa and five trips for a seal from John Deere. I thought getting parts in California was bad until I moved to Oklahoma.
I want to thank you for showing this, I got a jd 2640 that leaking around throttle shaft it runs fine all but that I believe I can put new o ring on it on the shaft on the tractor.
@@westerntruckandtractorrepa1353 hi Joe tiller mi name is Carlos Witter. Have a question? I have a 1975 John deere 410 . Have the same fuel injection pump just li the one you repair on the video. Do you have perhaps the tracking number of the kit you used to rebuild the pump. ?
I just got done disassembling my roosa master pump awesome video my shaft actually snapped so teardown for cause was necessary video got me to the rollers but my pump is seized one step further how do I disassemble the last part
I have a early serial JD 555A crawler loader, I've got mine off and tore down, waiting on a kit. i'm having trouble finding timing instructions for the 4-276T the timing gear has a keyed slot, and the gear hasn't jumped time or can it with the pump off, so I'm sure I can get it back where it was, I just wanna check to see if it has been tampered with or if it is timed correctly. Having trouble finding manuals that aren't a arm and a leg for..... its amazing the simplicity of the pumps lol $50 and it will be new again
Great video. Needed to see this as I have a John Deere 1020 that the governor ring is coming apart and clogging the return check valve. Going to open it up soon. Are you going to have a reassembly video?
Thank you. Had some red material debris inside the pump clogging up the fuel intake and shutting the engine down. Was the large red O-Ring that had degraded and failed.
to help get the hydraulic head out use a coupla 3-8 fine thread bolts for levers use same bolts with nuts on then to get the head back in place with out getting it to far and cutting the o ring around the head
I have the Stanadyne DB2 pump on my 7.3 idi t. Works good but as far as I no it's never been rebuilt and just turned 200 thousand on the clock. Would love to freshen it up.
Great video! My buddy has an old 440 skidder with the alike pump hope to never have to rebuild. Keep up the good work. What would your suggestion be for keeping the pumps from frosting/jelling in colder weather.
Jason Marien Well around here when it gets into the 0 to - numbers we use that diesel 911 or run #1 diesel, I have seen some guys run straight kerosene which I wouldn't recommend.
how similar is this pump to the DB4's in the JD 74/7510 tractors? I have one that is VERY doggy, about 10K hours. Engine runs very smooth and starts well, thinking I just need bump the fuel setting. I had backed out the fuel screw some on the old stanadynes in the 6.2 diesels in the past, but didn't know if the DB4s were a different animal. Hate to get a re-man pump is all I need is a fuel setting adjustment.
Great video, I have a JD 5520 appears to have a failed injector pump. Solenoid is getting 12v and clicks. Inlet is getting fuel and pump is bled. No fuel out of any cylinder port while we crank.
Stanadyne used FIVE point security torx bolts on my solenoid, didn't know there was such a thing. These newer JD tractors are like working on a Mercedes
Great video was wondering what you charge to rebuild this same pump. I have one on a 410 backhoe. also have a question about my problem. I think I should be able to hear the solenoid move the shut off when 12 volts are applied, also if I crank the engine with the fuel lines disconnected at the injectors I would think I should see fuel come out the lines, I do have fuel pumping at the pump input. I think this tells me my pump is not working.
That is what i do when i work on stuff i but it in order where it goes like when you took the throttle shaft out one les thing to remeber ill never turn around and lay stuff on the flat the way it came out
Saw another ask about the correct Bristol Wrench size for the timing advance screws...didn't see a reply, can you tell us what size wrench we need. Have read where even Stanadyne is now using a modified Torx bit with a sleeve, but if you can find them, they want an arm & leg for them. Might have the correct wrench, but would be nice to know before I attempt to disassemble the pump. Thanks, great video....would love to see one on reassembly :)
thanks for all the good work, i have a 401c JD - backhoe that uses the same pump and Leaks badLy since the fiLter unit is cracked and Leaking, i wonder if you couLd heLp me find this axact internaL fiLter unit anywhere ?!
Wonder if he used the special tool to remove the ball that screws into the cam ring? I have never seen one and haven't found anyone that sells them, but I think would have a sleeve or something that would fit snug around the ball to prevent it from cracking or breaking when screwing it out ?
I have a 73 case 580b 188d engine. I had the engine rebuild an right after we fired it back up I ran out of diesel an fueled it back up an did the same thing. An what I found out is that it dumped all the fuel in the crank case. Trying to figure it out if it's a bad injector or the o ring on the pump shaft
Good morning, just ran across this video, I have an 70's JD 310A 3cyl diesel, im assuming the pump is pretty similar, the pump in this video looks identical aside from the fact mine is a 3cyl,my question is,when I start my tractor,it takes off,goes right to high throttle, my linkage is all the way forward as it should be for idle,any ideas??? Thanx in advance.
Hi Great video. I am about to tackle a pump rebuild for an older Case 580 D which I think the rubber flex plate for thee governor wights has deteriorated and is breaking apart, and clogging the fuel return in the pump. Did you make a follow up video to pump the pump back together? I searched for it, but was not successful. Thanks agian for taking the time to make this video. Rich
Question, I have the same injection pump, the flex ring failed. Ordered a seal kit and replaced the flex ring. Cleaned and inspected the parts and didn't see anything else wrong. Reseal, reassemble, exactly how I took it apart. Reinstalled injection pump on my machine. It will run for a min and stall out, let the machine sit for 30 seconds and it will start and run for a min and stall out again. The lift pump is good, and nothing in the fuel tank that is restricting flow to the transfer pump side of the injection pump, shut down solenoid is working. I did pull apart the rotor from the body and seen 2 screws recessed in the body. Didn't remove them, is it possible a piece of rubber from the old flex ring is stuck in there? I'm out of ideas. I was thinking that the shut down solenoid was drifting but when the machine would stall i wouldn't cycle the key, just push the starter button.
Great video! where do you buy seal kits from for the cav pumps? I have a pumping head that has too much leakeage and am in need for a pumping head. Do you know where I can source one of those? Thank you my friend and I am glad to finally see another one of your awesome videos!
+Tim Stanford I have been getting my parts from Star Diesel and U.S. diesel. You can try your local fuel injection shop, I haven't had much luck with that.
Hello western truck, Thank you for the video. I'm wondering if you'd happen to know the voltage required for the fuel shutoff solenoid or better yet where that should be connected to? I have an 1974 Allis Chalmers HD4 I am trying to revive and there is currently nothing attached to the post you mentioned. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
The Roosa Master / Stanadyne pumps came 4 ways. Energize to run, energize to shut down, 12 Volt coil and 24 volt coil The most common wiring is connected to the switched hot terminal of the ignition switch. Then wired to the pump as shown @5:30
I have a JD 820 and the throttle is sticking at a single rpm. No throttle response and would not shut off. Do you think I may have a gov, or weight basket issue?
So what generally happens when you get a bad tank of diesel and it won't start up again? Gummed up metering screw that fights against the governor spring? I put two new filters on it last time the pump was "rebuilt" and it started fine and ran well, but again will not start like it has no fuel. Suggestions appreciated.
How much side to side play should there be in the driveshaft? When it's in the engine, I can grab the gear and wiggle it a bit. It works fine otherwise.
Hey there, I've got a pump like this one on an old generator. It has a fitting that sticks out of the back of the upper throttle housing and points toward the fuel inlet, it has a knurled cap that looks kind of like a thimble that you can twist with your fingers, any idea what that is? Thank you, great video for us getting into pump rebuilding
thank, you for you're video. I, have a question for you. I've got a 1966, case 530 Diesel Backhoe. My Diesel pump stopped pumping fuel to the injectors. I, took the pump apart and notice why it stopped pumping. the steel shift broke in half inside the pump. it's a clean break in half. It also looks rusted inside of the pump.. could this pump be rebuild or what. thank, you.
Some reason when I'm bleeding to the injectors only one does not seam to get as much pressure but the others squirt out just fine any ideas and making 1 injector not working great does a little flue but nothing also on the return form injector
I have a db2 4086 from a generator not sure I want to do this myself I've started but still haven't got the head off.. would you be interested in doing it? It won't let fuel in since it's been sitting for awhile something must be stuck.
Have a DB pump that looks identical on an 81 Waukesha//Miller welder. Replaced the old solenoid which would bind up and require FIRM tapping on pump to get it to finally shut down. Not sure If I'm getting the hooked foot on the solenoid lever into place correctly. Powers up but still not getting fuel to bleed the injectors since they lost their prime when I had to pull return lines from #1 and #2 to access the top cover.
Saw another newer Stanadyne pump that was a cut-away but the upper works to have the same upper workings...that foot hooks around at tab on the slide below it? If not working the slide then no fuel will flow through the meter. When I put the top straight down I think what I was feeling was the plunger being partially depressed as the foot was pressing then missing its place leaving the solenoid to go through its motions and nothing else This is an admittedly simple ordeal I imagine...just replacing the solenoid but this is my 1st foray into IP internals.
Thanks. I remember now that when I first removed the top it wouldn't go straight up...had to move it sideways slightly and after removal I heard a soft "pop" which would have been the slide moving as far as its spring would allow. Had to re-watch instructordave111's "Be the Fuel" several timews where he used a cut-away before I saw the tab. Being only able to see it side-on left me wondering.
Okay the foot doesn't want to hook around that tab. Even the old solenoid foot wouldn't fit around it But I think I figured out how this particular pump behaves. The slide is spring loaded so when the solenoid powers up the slide pulls back on its own to permit running. Powered off the foot presses on the tab and presses it back to shut down position.. Got it running but am back to the same issue I was starting to have to start with...when I power off the engine will still stay running...but at somewhere between 1/2 to 3/4 at what it would when the solenoid is powered up. The slide seems to be sticking as well because when I tried to work it by hand...at first it was stiff before freeing up. Since the solenoid functions with sharp engage//disengage I think it is jamming. Takes some tapping on pump to get it to shut down fully. Could it be I just might need to open the foot up a tad wider to ensure it hooks around the tab (with a little room to spare) so the foot works the slide fully? EDIT: Was later than wanted before got to it. I think I might still be missing out on something...
I’m not sure if you responded to these messages but I have recently bought the same tractor with the same injection pump it has fuel to the pump but not after it I believe it is just clogged what would be the best way to unclog it
Great video. Question Im working on the same pump except 6 cyclinder. Im getting great fuel to pump but cannot get fuel through pump to prime. Any suggestions on what is stopping fuel from entering pump.
Sounds like something on the inlet is restricting your fuel where the end cap is by the internal gear pump is . Make sure all that is in there correctly or it won't allow fuel into the pump .
Man I’ve got a like 86 John Deere 450c dozer that is having fueling issues after it gets warm (about 10-15 min). Do you think it could be the pump going out? I’ve changed the fuel filter and it’s for sure a fueling issue not an overheating issue Bc the old dozer doesn’t have any of the stuff to downspeed the engine when it’s hot it’ll just blow the engine.
Hi I just bought a JD 555A and the pump has a different transfer inlet, but I assume it is same on inside? It has sat for more than 3 yrs and I think the rollers or pins are stuck, it has rust on the governor weights. I spun it and the transfer pump is making a vacuum, I was considering exchanging it for a reman, but after your video, has hopefully saved me $800!
western truck and tractor repair can you advise me on removing the pump? Anything I need to know or not do? My pump gets fuel but doesn’t pump it out of injection lines.
Yes sir I have a 1986 case 580d backhoe and it's a vacuums line coming out above injector pump from intake can you tell me where it might go Thanks Ronnie
I have a Stanadyne for a 6cil 282 engine, but it has old fuel and crud at the bottom. How do I drain these pumps on the machine so I can put fresh fuel in it? Thank you
I am having trouble timing 450c injector pump any suggestions I installed new injector pump and alined dot to shaft and dot in pump primed but will not crank
I got a problem with my Roosa/Stanadyne similar to the one in this video. It won't pump. I tried flooding it totally with diesel through the overflow port and then loosened the injector lines to check for pumping, but still no output of diesel to the lines. New filter. Vane pump is real clean. Good fuel supply to the vane pump. That's were it stops. I'm ready to take it apart myself after watching the video, but just wanted to throw this out to ask for suggestions or insight.
I looked at my repair manual again and you mentioned good fuel to the vane pump. That fuel from vane pump goes to the metering valve and then to injector pump. If you have not removed your pump from your engine you may be able to check that metering valve without pulling the pump off the machine. You don't need to go into the main part of the pump to make that check. I always lay a big white bed sheet under anything I take apart in case a spring goes over my shoulder on removal. Also when you have a screw on the side of the pump with a lock nut to remove - - - COUNT THE THREADS the threads on the screw. It might save you some time when it goes back together and you have to worry about timing the pump.
@@philipdutkiewicz8041 Let me know how you make out. That metering valve is machined very closely. A tiny bit of moisture in the fuel can mess up a pump if it sets too long. My metering valve was very clean and shiny but there was a tiny bit of corrosion around the hole it slides in.
@@bobshort2192 Thanks again, Bob. I have removed that pump a few times already. I just had it out and studied the metering valve linkage and springs and stuff, and all seems to be functioning. Yesterday I tried to install the pump back in but can't get it to seat the last eighth of an inch onto the mounting plate. (that covers the engine drive gears) I may have to start all over by re-removing it . I have not inspected the metering port as you mentioned, so if I take it out, I'll check into that before attempting to put it back in. In the past efforts, I was able to jiggle the unit to seat it back in, but this time it's being a real s.o.b. The saga continues. When I remove the unit, I leave that drive shaft for the pump attached to the engine and just slide the pump off of it. One damn eighth of an inch!
OK, I got the pump to seat. I had to move the vane cam in back of the unit to align with the shaft. I'll try to run it today however, I suspect I'll have to examine and clean the metering valve as you (Bob) have recommended.
I know this was 6 years ago but I have a questions that I believe would still be common knowledge for some that messes with these pumps. The tractor was running and then just stopped, it would not start, so no issue with the mechanical side of things. I have the DBGFCC431-30AJ pump off a Case 580CK 188. I found this pump to be quite simple, demands respect for sure, but still simple overall. I am extremely mechanically inclined but this is my first injection pump. So, my question is I see that some have the spring loaded vane pump blades (2 pieces with springs between them ) and some have the one piece (2 parts only). Mine had the 2 solid blades only, so that is what I put back in, new ones though. Why are some the 4 piece vanes blades and some the two piece? Is one better than the other? I have gone through this pump with a fine tooth comb, everything cleaned with sonic machine and every hole cleaned. The delivery valve in the rotor cleaned and functioning, pistons and rollers all cleaned and move very well, no damage or wear seen, I did not remove or adjust the leaf spring, the tractor ran really well, no excessive smoke or anything. I even removed the air bleed/vent wires and and cleaned all those holes. I videoed the disassembly and made special note of the direction of the eccentric ring in the transfer pump and also of the cam ring, both are counter clockwise like they should be. I also went through the regulator on the side of the transfer pump cover, new O-ring and the little piston moves freely. The two springs are placed in it correctly as well, verified several times. I also put in the one piece weight wheel, as there was not even a sign of the rubber/plastic ring that apparently always falls apart and causes trouble. I also made sure that was marked exactly right just as the old mark was on the weight wheel. So, all of that is put together correctly, verified 3 times. Whats happening though is I am not getting fuel at really any pressure out of the holes that go to the injection lines. I do not seem to be getting pressure at the transfer pump. We air checked it for leaks by putting air into the inlet and putting the transfer pump portion of the pump under diesel in a bucket and there are zero leaks. This engine will not start. I am totally puzzled. Any thoughts? I just seems like the transfer pump is not building pressure. Also, mine has the DOT on the input shaft and on the rotor shaft, they were lined up when I took it apart and that it the way it went back together. Even if it were out of times, it still should build pressure and make high pressure at the high pressure holes going to the lines. Right? Thanks.
@@wingman358 Well I finally broke down and sent it out to Area Diesel Services. Just got it back last week and put it on. Turned it over a couple, literally 2 times before the starter went caput!! lol. I have great faith in Area Diesel so I really feel that once I get that starter fixed/replaced (looking right now in fact) she should fire right up. I have a few hoses to replace before I can really use her. Thanks for asking, hope all is well.
Injection pumps last the life of the engine and don't need to be constantly tuned like a carburetor, my denso injection pump lasted 358,000 miles before it needed a rebuild.
Your video saved me, I was discouraged and never would of realized the 2 pumping plungers existed and how it works, mine must have been seized up so I ressurected it.
I love the history you add to your videos.
Warren, the hand sure take a beating in the mechanics trade, just part of the job. This will kick the old guys ass later in life. Hands of a working man. Thanks for the video on this pump.
Thank you so much for making this video! I broke off the throttle lever on my 1976 Case 480c construction king and was faced with buying a new injection pump or fix the one I had. Found out that I could replace the rod and wanted to see what to expect. This video is awesome!! Thanks again brother!
Thanks for the video, i just went through the pump one my john deere combine saved a bunch of money.
Very interesting to see the inside of a pump. Good for you I guess to have a break from the heavier stuff !
Thank you for all your videos. I was a marine repairman and I changed jobs. I had been missing the great dealing of solving trouble with machines. I found your vedios and have been able to enjoy the great since of repairing the machine and staying clean at the same time. You do outstanding work. I wish you all the best. Jesse
la quiero ver desarmada
thanks to your two educational videos I rebulit my 6 cly JD induction pump Roosamaster. Updated weight cage new bushing new vane pump assembly ect ect. Installed it and with the help of a gasoline soaked rag started right up runs just perfect.
thx again
Nailed it again guy, super job for us trying to learn. Thumbs up BIG TIME Warren.
I'm working on a Stanadyne DB4327 right now. This video helped me out quite a bit Thanks!
Langstraat Farms I've got an assembly video too .
Thank you for making this video as well as all the other ones. Every time we had one of these pumps give us a problem, it cost us between $500-700. Just took one apart today and resealed thanks in part to your video! Total cost: $37
I just paid to have mine rebuilt..$ 1600.00 Even with exchange you're getting a deal.
@@francoisbouvier7861was about to say, just had one done for $1300. $500-$700 is a steal.
Thank you Warren. Had my first run in with one 9of these today. Leaking from that bottom flat head plug.
Hello Sir. I understand how busy you guys stay. I have a Massey Ferguson 50A backhoe I hoped I had gotten a good deal on.and I wish the pump had been that clean. Mine was full of Sludge under the top cap. It's a DAV type. Had water half way up the lower part. The rest had went inside the motor. Because I believed what the seller told me I tried to start it. I think it messed up all the injectors has it pumped just enough to move the dirt/dried fuel . To say the least parts are putting a hurting on my wallet. : ) May has well laugh about it.
Thank you Sir
All my best from Tennessee.
Thank u very much for this husband has a case 450 d dozer he put metering spring in wrong so now when he gets home he can fix it right to get us up running again thank you ❤
I have a '96 JD 410D with a Stanadyne pump. It's a little different than the one you have here but close enough. I started losing power where it would free rev then pull back in RPM and absolutely no power to run any hydraulics, etc. I replaced the secondary filter, cleaned the siphon and thought about working on the injector pump next.. that is until I watched this video. I've since decided to leave this to someone who knows what the hell they are doing because if I took it apart it would have to go back in my junk pile. I wish you were my neighbor.
anither great video sir!..very good information and detail into a job like this . keep'm coming buddy 🖒👌🖒
Tweaked Diesel 304 Thank you very much, have a good one.
Take care of your hands with diesel you in the long term can get problems with your skin!! My brother worked 40 years with diesel engines and he get big problems with skin in his hands.
So take care. Love your videos!!
good advise, that also applies to all petroleum fuels, solvents and additives. they are all dangerous, if you have long term exposure to them.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Many thanks for the upload!
thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge
I have this pump. The info/data was worth knowing. Thanks.
Very detailed
Great work thank you.
Just wanted to say thanks! I was able to re-seal my Roosa Master on my 74 JD1530 from watching your video. I'm a subscriber now! A little worried about that half moon clip on my throttle body...it's shaped in a way that my engine cut off uses it to close off the fuel supply and the first few times I tested it the tension popped it off. I gave it a little squeeze and put it back on. If it comes loose at least I'm confident I can take it back apart and fix it! Thanks again.
MastPoint 2016 Thanks for the sub , and those clips can be problematic.
Dear Mr. Grease, There sure ain't
no mechanics around like You any
more. Would bet Your as busy "as a
cat covering". Those walking beams
sure are a JOB. Off road is tough on
them. Thank You for the video.
Sincerely, Kathleen.
+Kathleen NAWALT Thank you, and good to hear from you.
Great video
I made six trips to get a compartment latch from Warren Cat in Tulsa and five trips for a seal from John Deere. I thought getting parts in California was bad until I moved to Oklahoma.
I want to thank you for showing this, I got a jd 2640 that leaking around throttle shaft it runs fine all but that I believe I can put new o ring on it on the shaft on the tractor.
joe tiller Yes you can do that on the tractor. Thanks for watching.
@@westerntruckandtractorrepa1353 hi Joe tiller mi name is Carlos Witter. Have a question? I have a 1975 John deere 410 . Have the same fuel injection pump just li the one you repair on the video. Do you have perhaps the tracking number of the kit you used to rebuild the pump. ?
I just got done disassembling my roosa master pump awesome video my shaft actually snapped so teardown for cause was necessary video got me to the rollers but my pump is seized one step further how do I disassemble the last part
Wow. You really know your stuff. Could you rebuild mine from my case 580c backhoe?
I have a early serial JD 555A crawler loader, I've got mine off and tore down, waiting on a kit. i'm having trouble finding timing instructions for the 4-276T the timing gear has a keyed slot, and the gear hasn't jumped time or can it with the pump off, so I'm sure I can get it back where it was, I just wanna check to see if it has been tampered with or if it is timed correctly. Having trouble finding manuals that aren't a arm and a leg for.....
its amazing the simplicity of the pumps lol $50 and it will be new again
That looks a fiddle job 👍
Great video. Needed to see this as I have a John Deere 1020 that the governor ring is coming apart and clogging the return check valve. Going to open it up soon. Are you going to have a reassembly video?
those pumps are bullet proof, I have a couple on JD's 4045's
Thank you. Had some red material debris inside the pump clogging up the fuel intake and shutting the engine down. Was the large red O-Ring that had degraded and failed.
Thanks very much, very helpful. Did you make a reassembly video ??
I know times are changing I’d like to see you do a old mechanical Cummins or b/c /a injection pump thanks
Thanks Cory hohman. The problem turn out to be worse than I thought.the fuel pump needs rebuild. I'd found a replacement close by.
to help get the hydraulic head out use a coupla 3-8 fine thread bolts for levers use same bolts with nuts on then to get the head back in place with out getting it to far and cutting the o ring around the head
Informative
am getting ready to do a cav dpa this winter. a rebuild video by you would be appreciated. thank
I have the Stanadyne DB2 pump on my 7.3 idi t. Works good but as far as I no it's never been rebuilt and just turned 200 thousand on the clock. Would love to freshen it up.
Yeah , I would say you are about due .
The P7100 injection pumps on the Twelve Valve can make some serious power though
Great video! My buddy has an old 440 skidder with the alike pump hope to never have to rebuild. Keep up the good work. What would your suggestion be for keeping the pumps from frosting/jelling in colder weather.
Jason Marien Well around here when it gets into the 0 to - numbers we use that diesel 911 or run #1 diesel, I have seen some guys run straight kerosene which I wouldn't recommend.
how similar is this pump to the DB4's in the JD 74/7510 tractors? I have one that is VERY doggy, about 10K hours. Engine runs very smooth and starts well, thinking I just need bump the fuel setting. I had backed out the fuel screw some on the old stanadynes in the 6.2 diesels in the past, but didn't know if the DB4s were a different animal. Hate to get a re-man pump is all I need is a fuel setting adjustment.
Ya know your history 👍
I came across some
Db4 and Db6 pumps that have failed in some mep series generators due to low fuel lubrication properties.
I think I might have one at the moment on an 805B
Great video, I have the same pump, I was wondering if you have any advice, or videos on replacing the fuel shut off solenoid
Great video, I have a JD 5520 appears to have a failed injector pump. Solenoid is getting 12v and clicks. Inlet is getting fuel and pump is bled.
No fuel out of any cylinder port while we crank.
Need to pull top cover and see if metering valve is sticking
@@westerntruckandtractorrepa1353 my thinking exactly after watching your video. Trying to find a security torx for the bolts now... Thanks a Lot!!
Stanadyne used FIVE point security torx bolts on my solenoid, didn't know there was such a thing. These newer JD tractors are like working on a Mercedes
Great video was wondering what you charge to rebuild this same pump. I have one on a 410 backhoe. also have a question about my problem. I think I should be able to hear the solenoid move the shut off when 12 volts are applied, also if I crank the engine with the fuel lines disconnected at the injectors I would think I should see fuel come out the lines, I do have fuel pumping at the pump input. I think this tells me my pump is not working.
That is what i do when i work on stuff i but it in order where it goes like when you took the throttle shaft out one les thing to remeber ill never turn around and lay stuff on the flat the way it came out
Saw another ask about the correct Bristol Wrench size for the timing advance screws...didn't see a reply, can you tell us what size wrench we need. Have read where even Stanadyne is now using a modified Torx bit with a sleeve, but if you can find them, they want an arm & leg for them. Might have the correct wrench, but would be nice to know before I attempt to disassemble the pump. Thanks, great video....would love to see one on reassembly :)
TY
thanks for all the good work,
i have a 401c JD - backhoe that uses the same pump and Leaks badLy since the fiLter unit is cracked and Leaking, i wonder if you couLd heLp me find this axact internaL fiLter unit anywhere ?!
Wonder if he used the special tool to remove the ball that screws into the cam ring? I have never seen one and haven't found anyone that sells them, but I think would have a sleeve or something that would fit snug around the ball to prevent it from cracking or breaking when screwing it out ?
I have a 73 case 580b 188d engine. I had the engine rebuild an right after we fired it back up I ran out of diesel an fueled it back up an did the same thing. An what I found out is that it dumped all the fuel in the crank case. Trying to figure it out if it's a bad injector or the o ring on the pump shaft
Did you make the re assembly video? Great info. I'm about to tackle my first stanadyne dB 4371 pump, and it is a bit intimidating
The inline injection pump is like an engine itself. I prefer the inline pumps myself.
Good morning, just ran across this video, I have an 70's JD 310A 3cyl diesel, im assuming the pump is pretty similar, the pump in this video looks identical aside from the fact mine is a 3cyl,my question is,when I start my tractor,it takes off,goes right to high throttle, my linkage is all the way forward as it should be for idle,any ideas??? Thanx in advance.
Hi
Great video. I am about to tackle a pump rebuild for an older Case 580 D which I think the rubber flex plate for thee governor wights has deteriorated and is breaking apart, and clogging the fuel return in the pump.
Did you make a follow up video to pump the pump back together? I searched for it, but was not successful.
Thanks agian for taking the time to make this video.
Rich
Yes. There is another stanadyne video on assembly of a pump
Our 1256 is leaking diesel into the oil and we are thinking that the pump needs to be rebuilt...does that make sense??
Question, I have the same injection pump, the flex ring failed. Ordered a seal kit and replaced the flex ring. Cleaned and inspected the parts and didn't see anything else wrong. Reseal, reassemble, exactly how I took it apart. Reinstalled injection pump on my machine. It will run for a min and stall out, let the machine sit for 30 seconds and it will start and run for a min and stall out again. The lift pump is good, and nothing in the fuel tank that is restricting flow to the transfer pump side of the injection pump, shut down solenoid is working. I did pull apart the rotor from the body and seen 2 screws recessed in the body. Didn't remove them, is it possible a piece of rubber from the old flex ring is stuck in there? I'm out of ideas. I was thinking that the shut down solenoid was drifting but when the machine would stall i wouldn't cycle the key, just push the starter button.
How do you keep the timing for reinstalling it?
I got the same pump but I still have the drive shaft inside the pump how do you take it off to replace the seals?
Great video! where do you buy seal kits from for the cav pumps? I have a pumping head that has too much leakeage and am in need for a pumping head. Do you know where I can source one of those? Thank you my friend and I am glad to finally see another one of your awesome videos!
+Tim Stanford I have been getting my parts from Star Diesel and U.S. diesel. You can try your local fuel injection shop, I haven't had much luck with that.
thank you sir! I will check with them
Can you tell me what the timeing setting on a 310G case
This is really advanced mechanical information. Could anyone recommend a more beginner channel?
We have a JD300 tractor with this type pump...how can we test it to see if it needs rebuilt. The engine starts & cuts off. Thanks
Like to see a video of a rebuild of a Cummins 4.39 b
Hello western truck, Thank you for the video. I'm wondering if you'd happen to know the voltage required for the fuel shutoff solenoid or better yet where that should be connected to? I have an 1974 Allis Chalmers HD4 I am trying to revive and there is currently nothing attached to the post you mentioned. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
The Roosa Master / Stanadyne pumps came 4 ways. Energize to run, energize to shut down, 12 Volt coil and 24 volt coil The most common wiring is connected to the switched hot terminal of the ignition switch. Then wired to the pump as shown @5:30
I have a JD 820 and the throttle is sticking at a single rpm. No throttle response and would not shut off. Do you think I may have a gov, or weight basket issue?
Just what we was looking for. We have a Franklin log skidder with an Allis Chalmers engine. 3400 leaking gas. Could it be an O ring? Thanks!
So what generally happens when you get a bad tank of diesel and it won't start up again? Gummed up metering screw that fights against the governor spring? I put two new filters on it last time the pump was "rebuilt" and it started fine and ran well, but again will not start like it has no fuel. Suggestions appreciated.
Prolly scored plungers from water
How much side to side play should there be in the driveshaft? When it's in the engine, I can grab the gear and wiggle it a bit. It works fine otherwise.
Hey there, I've got a pump like this one on an old generator. It has a fitting that sticks out of the back of the upper throttle housing and points toward the fuel inlet, it has a knurled cap that looks kind of like a thimble that you can twist with your fingers, any idea what that is? Thank you, great video for us getting into pump rebuilding
Sounds to me like u got a cav Pump instead of a stanadyne and that’s to adjust your rpm
thank, you for you're video. I, have a question for you. I've got a 1966, case 530 Diesel Backhoe. My Diesel pump stopped pumping fuel to the injectors. I, took the pump apart and notice why it stopped pumping. the steel shift broke in half inside the pump. it's a clean break in half. It also looks rusted inside of the pump.. could this pump be rebuild or what. thank, you.
Some reason when I'm bleeding to the injectors only one does not seam to get as much pressure but the others squirt out just fine any ideas and making 1 injector not working great does a little flue but nothing also on the return form injector
you mentioned you were making the video of assembly but I cant find it
Is this part an electric shut off to the fuel also?
The pilot tube most likely got damaged from running the pump loose.
like your gobe thanks
Did you do the reassembly video? I can't find it on your channel
ua-cam.com/video/JHwOi-jjpHg/v-deo.html
I have a db2 4086 from a generator not sure I want to do this myself I've started but still haven't got the head off.. would you be interested in doing it? It won't let fuel in since it's been sitting for awhile something must be stuck.
Do you have to time the engine before taking off this pump?
Have a DB pump that looks identical on an 81 Waukesha//Miller welder. Replaced the old solenoid which would bind up and require FIRM tapping on pump to get it to finally shut down. Not sure If I'm getting the hooked foot on the solenoid lever into place correctly.
Powers up but still not getting fuel to bleed the injectors since they lost their prime when I had to pull return lines from #1 and #2 to access the top cover.
RuralTowner Yeah I think you are on the right track, sounds like the foot is not letting the metering valve open to allow the fuel into the pump head.
Saw another newer Stanadyne pump that was a cut-away but the upper works to have the same upper workings...that foot hooks around at tab on the slide below it? If not working the slide then no fuel will flow through the meter.
When I put the top straight down I think what I was feeling was the plunger being partially depressed as the foot was pressing then missing its place leaving the solenoid to go through its motions and nothing else
This is an admittedly simple ordeal I imagine...just replacing the solenoid but this is my 1st foray into IP internals.
RuralTowner It should go right on the front side of the tab , don't worry about the simple ordeal, I have been there many times.
Thanks. I remember now that when I first removed the top it wouldn't go straight up...had to move it sideways slightly and after removal I heard a soft "pop" which would have been the slide moving as far as its spring would allow. Had to re-watch instructordave111's "Be the Fuel" several timews where he used a cut-away before I saw the tab. Being only able to see it side-on left me wondering.
Okay the foot doesn't want to hook around that tab. Even the old solenoid foot wouldn't fit around it But I think I figured out how this particular pump behaves. The slide is spring loaded so when the solenoid powers up the slide pulls back on its own to permit running. Powered off the foot presses on the tab and presses it back to shut down position..
Got it running but am back to the same issue I was starting to have to start with...when I power off the engine will still stay running...but at somewhere between 1/2 to 3/4 at what it would when the solenoid is powered up. The slide seems to be sticking as well because when I tried to work it by hand...at first it was stiff before freeing up. Since the solenoid functions with sharp engage//disengage I think it is jamming. Takes some tapping on pump to get it to shut down fully.
Could it be I just might need to open the foot up a tad wider to ensure it hooks around the tab (with a little room to spare) so the foot works the slide fully?
EDIT: Was later than wanted before got to it. I think I might still be missing out on something...
I’m not sure if you responded to these messages but I have recently bought the same tractor with the same injection pump it has fuel to the pump but not after it I believe it is just clogged what would be the best way to unclog it
What is the tool part number to bull the actuator out looks like a torque bit but. Not?
any videos on the 4.5 powertech with factory injection pump on it from deere
Great video. Question Im working on the same pump except 6 cyclinder. Im getting great fuel to pump but cannot get fuel through pump to prime. Any suggestions on what is stopping fuel from entering pump.
Sounds like something on the inlet is restricting your fuel where the end cap is by the internal gear pump is . Make sure all that is in there correctly or it won't allow fuel into the pump .
How did you get the bristol screw (timing advance) on the bottom of the pump out an what size was it
That is my question also
Man I’ve got a like 86 John Deere 450c dozer that is having fueling issues after it gets warm (about 10-15 min). Do you think it could be the pump going out? I’ve changed the fuel filter and it’s for sure a fueling issue not an overheating issue Bc the old dozer doesn’t have any of the stuff to downspeed the engine when it’s hot it’ll just blow the engine.
I'm having what sounds like your same issue. Can I ask what you figured out ?
Hi I just bought a JD 555A and the pump has a different transfer inlet, but I assume it is same on inside? It has sat for more than 3 yrs and I think the rollers or pins are stuck, it has rust on the governor weights. I spun it and the transfer pump is making a vacuum, I was considering exchanging it for a reman, but after your video, has hopefully saved me $800!
Carl Johnson I hope it saves you some money as well, that was my sole purpose in making this video. Thanks for watching.
western truck and tractor repair can you advise me on removing the pump? Anything I need to know or not do? My pump gets fuel but doesn’t pump it out of injection lines.
Yes sir I have a 1986 case 580d backhoe and it's a vacuums line coming out above injector pump from intake can you tell me where it might go Thanks Ronnie
I have a Stanadyne for a 6cil 282 engine, but it has old fuel and crud at the bottom. How do I drain these pumps on the machine so I can put fresh fuel in it? Thank you
I am having trouble timing 450c injector pump any suggestions I installed new injector pump and alined dot to shaft and dot in pump primed but will not crank
dang it warren this is 2017 and im just now seeing it on 4 of 2021
Do you have a video of how to take one of those out of tractor.
I got a problem with my Roosa/Stanadyne similar to the one in this video. It won't pump. I tried flooding it totally with diesel through the overflow port and then loosened the injector lines to check for pumping, but still no output of diesel to the lines. New filter. Vane pump is real clean. Good fuel supply to the vane pump. That's were it stops. I'm ready to take it apart myself after watching the video, but just wanted to throw this out to ask for suggestions or insight.
I looked at my repair manual again and you mentioned good fuel to the vane pump. That fuel from vane pump goes to the metering valve and then to injector pump. If you have not removed your pump from your engine you may be able to check that metering valve without pulling the pump off the machine. You don't need to go into the main part of the pump to make that check. I always lay a big white bed sheet under anything I take apart in case a spring goes over my shoulder on removal. Also when you have a screw on the side of the pump with a lock nut to remove - - - COUNT THE THREADS the threads on the screw. It might save you some time when it goes back together and you have to worry about timing the pump.
@@bobshort2192 Thank you, I'll give that a try. Phil.
@@philipdutkiewicz8041 Let me know how you make out. That metering valve is machined very closely. A tiny bit of moisture in the fuel can mess up a pump if it sets too long. My metering valve was very clean and shiny but there was a tiny bit of corrosion around the hole it slides in.
@@bobshort2192 Thanks again, Bob. I have removed that pump a few times already. I just had it out and studied the metering valve linkage and springs and stuff, and all seems to be functioning. Yesterday I tried to install the pump back in but can't get it to seat the last eighth of an inch onto the mounting plate. (that covers the engine drive gears) I may have to start all over by re-removing it . I have not inspected the metering port as you mentioned, so if I take it out, I'll check into that before attempting to put it back in. In the past efforts, I was able to jiggle the unit to seat it back in, but this time it's being a real s.o.b. The saga continues. When I remove the unit, I leave that drive shaft for the pump attached to the engine and just slide the pump off of it. One damn eighth of an inch!
OK, I got the pump to seat. I had to move the vane cam in back of the unit to align with the shaft. I'll try to run it today however, I suspect I'll have to examine and clean the metering valve as you (Bob) have recommended.
I know this was 6 years ago but I have a questions that I believe would still be common knowledge for some that messes with these pumps. The tractor was running and then just stopped, it would not start, so no issue with the mechanical side of things. I have the DBGFCC431-30AJ pump off a Case 580CK 188. I found this pump to be quite simple, demands respect for sure, but still simple overall. I am extremely mechanically inclined but this is my first injection pump. So, my question is I see that some have the spring loaded vane pump blades (2 pieces with springs between them ) and some have the one piece (2 parts only). Mine had the 2 solid blades only, so that is what I put back in, new ones though. Why are some the 4 piece vanes blades and some the two piece? Is one better than the other? I have gone through this pump with a fine tooth comb, everything cleaned with sonic machine and every hole cleaned. The delivery valve in the rotor cleaned and functioning, pistons and rollers all cleaned and move very well, no damage or wear seen, I did not remove or adjust the leaf spring, the tractor ran really well, no excessive smoke or anything. I even removed the air bleed/vent wires and and cleaned all those holes. I videoed the disassembly and made special note of the direction of the eccentric ring in the transfer pump and also of the cam ring, both are counter clockwise like they should be. I also went through the regulator on the side of the transfer pump cover, new O-ring and the little piston moves freely. The two springs are placed in it correctly as well, verified several times. I also put in the one piece weight wheel, as there was not even a sign of the rubber/plastic ring that apparently always falls apart and causes trouble. I also made sure that was marked exactly right just as the old mark was on the weight wheel. So, all of that is put together correctly, verified 3 times. Whats happening though is I am not getting fuel at really any pressure out of the holes that go to the injection lines. I do not seem to be getting pressure at the transfer pump. We air checked it for leaks by putting air into the inlet and putting the transfer pump portion of the pump under diesel in a bucket and there are zero leaks. This engine will not start. I am totally puzzled. Any thoughts? I just seems like the transfer pump is not building pressure. Also, mine has the DOT on the input shaft and on the rotor shaft, they were lined up when I took it apart and that it the way it went back together. Even if it were out of times, it still should build pressure and make high pressure at the high pressure holes going to the lines. Right? Thanks.
did you end up figuring it out?
@@wingman358 Well I finally broke down and sent it out to Area Diesel Services. Just got it back last week and put it on. Turned it over a couple, literally 2 times before the starter went caput!! lol. I have great faith in Area Diesel so I really feel that once I get that starter fixed/replaced (looking right now in fact) she should fire right up. I have a few hoses to replace before I can really use her. Thanks for asking, hope all is well.
Makes me like carbs more and more the longer I watch.
Injection pumps last the life of the engine and don't need to be constantly tuned like a carburetor, my denso injection pump lasted 358,000 miles before it needed a rebuild.