One of the best channels in regards to making the watcher get a genuine understanding of what is required to be done. Really clear, as some of us newbies dont make certain connections to things lmao.
Great detailed video. I recommend if you are doing this at home to take your time and write down all of your torque specs. A lift makes it easy and fast but, not all have access to one.
Also employ the use of an inch pound torque wrench for pan bolts and set to a higher 72 in-lbs (vs low value of 6 ft-lbs on larger wrench) for more noticeable clicks.
Something NOBODY said about dropping the N51-52 non X-drive aluminum pan is that it CAN get blocked by the rear crank throw. So all you have to do is turn the crankshaft clockwise a bit. I got hung up trying to drop my pan for a day and a half because it was in the way. Turned crank a 1/4 turn and it dropped without issue.
@@alpinen52ny79 its the part of the back section of the crank that has an offset lobe for balance. For whatever reason, you can only see the rear one in N51
@@alpinen52ny79 nah for me it was because these guys NEVER said anything about the crank being able to be in the way. Knowing this, if the pan will not drop easily. The throw is in the way. Everything else was easy, it was the lack of knowledge the throw could be in the way.
You seem to have the weight of the car on the wheels, for tightening the control arm & sway bar bushing bolts, but without the stiffening plate in place. A big deal or not???
I noticed when you had the wheels on to torque the control arms you didn't have the stiffening plate on, but when removing the stiffening plate you said not to lower the car back onto its wheels as things would shift around. Also, when torquing the control arms were the axal shafts just resting in place? I really appreciate the videos. I have the exact car and may attempt this soon.
not liable if you get hurt from this or something breaks on your car… but i think the whole “stiffening plate” warning is just a precaution. I saw the warnings printed on the bottom of the pan, it’s etched into the metal “DO NOT DRIVE WITHOUT STIFFENING PLATE”. but i have lowered it, driven, and even had the stiffening plate removed for a whole 2 weeks while driving the car around and nothing bad happened. I was working on it often and didn’t want to have to keep removing it over and over. I also don’t tighten it down super super tight, just enough so the bolts won’t loosen and the plate is on nice and tight.
How much easier (if at all) is it to drop the front subframe on a RWD N52 6MT? On the AWD it looks like the steering rack and pinion is behind the subframe whereas I could have sworn on my E82 128i 6MT it was in front of the subframe. I plan on dropping it sometime soon in order to weld in an oil pan baffle.
Oh man, my 2007 X3 with the N52 engine is leaking oil, and I'm pretty sure it's the oil pan gasket. My dad, who used to own the car, supposedly paid a mechanic to fix this leak, but it looks like either the mechanic did nothing or did a terrible job. I'm not about to pay someone else to do it again, but after watching this, Holy crap! I'm starting to think I might as well just live with the leak! It looks like too much work!
If it's off by a few inches, you must set it to ride height correctly and try again. Make sure your end links are in the correct position as well and nothing is binding up!
I was afraid of dying with the engine falling on me so took it to the shop am I the only one who's tow hook didn't properly fit in the top support thread next to the valve cover?
@@fabiospataro9494 $700 to a shop that is known to be a good value. They charge $100/hour in theory. They did gasket + bolts + engine mounts too ( my parts from FCP) and then added a surprise control arm as one bolt broke in the process.
Here is a diagram for you; you can enter and search the parts numbers on FCPEuro.com to see what is available! etkbmw.cc/en/bmw/cars/E91/Tou/BMW+328xi+model+49555/USA/31/31_0718
Not trying to be rude, but the "alright my good people" got pretty repetitive and a little annoying.... Otherwise thank you for such a useful video. 🙏🏼
I’m successfully delaying all that work on my E92 for years. And now you upload all these DIYs. You make me feel bad and lazy…
You mean we motivated you! haha is it done y et?
One of the best channels in regards to making the watcher get a genuine understanding of what is required to be done. Really clear, as some of us newbies dont make certain connections to things lmao.
HOLY CRAP. I think I'd just live with the leak.
😆many choose to!
Thank you for your support and help,, best BMW contents ever ,,, 👍
We try!
Mike you're an angel for these videos buddy! thank you!
Glad he could help!
Great detailed video. I recommend if you are doing this at home to take your time and write down all of your torque specs. A lift makes it easy and fast but, not all have access to one.
Having TQ specs listed out makes things SO MUCH easier!
Thank you for the x drive videos
Our pleasure!
Also employ the use of an inch pound torque wrench for pan bolts and set to a higher 72 in-lbs (vs low value of 6 ft-lbs on larger wrench) for more noticeable clicks.
Something NOBODY said about dropping the N51-52 non X-drive aluminum pan is that it CAN get blocked by the rear crank throw. So all you have to do is turn the crankshaft clockwise a bit. I got hung up trying to drop my pan for a day and a half because it was in the way. Turned crank a 1/4 turn and it dropped without issue.
Whats the rear crank throw ?
@@alpinen52ny79 its the part of the back section of the crank that has an offset lobe for balance. For whatever reason, you can only see the rear one in N51
@@stevensims3342 now am afraid of doing it since most of my work i do it on the street 🫤🫤
@@alpinen52ny79 nah for me it was because these guys NEVER said anything about the crank being able to be in the way. Knowing this, if the pan will not drop easily. The throw is in the way. Everything else was easy, it was the lack of knowledge the throw could be in the way.
@@stevensims3342 How many hours do you think this work takes?, without the inconvenience with the crank shaft
give us more!! have E91 myself, love these videos! very helpful
Whole lotta E9X love to go around.
if i had a dollar for every time he said "my good people", i would have a 10k in fcpeuro account balance 😂. amazing tutorial though
Don't give us any ideas!
You seem to have the weight of the car on the wheels, for tightening the control arm & sway bar bushing bolts, but without the stiffening plate in place. A big deal or not???
I noticed when you had the wheels on to torque the control arms you didn't have the stiffening plate on, but when removing the stiffening plate you said not to lower the car back onto its wheels as things would shift around. Also, when torquing the control arms were the axal shafts just resting in place?
I really appreciate the videos. I have the exact car and may attempt this soon.
not liable if you get hurt from this or something breaks on your car… but i think the whole “stiffening plate” warning is just a precaution. I saw the warnings printed on the bottom of the pan, it’s etched into the metal “DO NOT DRIVE WITHOUT STIFFENING PLATE”. but i have lowered it, driven, and even had the stiffening plate removed for a whole 2 weeks while driving the car around and nothing bad happened. I was working on it often and didn’t want to have to keep removing it over and over. I also don’t tighten it down super super tight, just enough so the bolts won’t loosen and the plate is on nice and tight.
How much easier (if at all) is it to drop the front subframe on a RWD N52 6MT? On the AWD it looks like the steering rack and pinion is behind the subframe whereas I could have sworn on my E82 128i 6MT it was in front of the subframe. I plan on dropping it sometime soon in order to weld in an oil pan baffle.
What a horrible amount of disassembly for an oil pan gasket. German engineering!
Exactly, this is ridiculous
In the oil pan there is a hole in top what goes in there. Looks like it’s just a plug
Oh man, my 2007 X3 with the N52 engine is leaking oil, and I'm pretty sure it's the oil pan gasket. My dad, who used to own the car, supposedly paid a mechanic to fix this leak, but it looks like either the mechanic did nothing or did a terrible job. I'm not about to pay someone else to do it again, but after watching this, Holy crap! I'm starting to think I might as well just live with the leak! It looks like too much work!
You got this!!
@@fcpeuro LiquiMoly Motor Oil Saver for now! Fingers crossed it works.
This right here is why my E90 leaks oil like the Exxon Valdez
How many hours did you spend on this job? Just to have an idea.
Our time is significantly skewed due to filming, it took us about ten hours of filming!
Now what would happen if I just left the leak what other things could it cause ??
Love the Long roof content!
wagon life.
So you didnt have to prime the engine?
Did you have to replace the front differential fluid & Transfer case fluid after removal ?
Sorry just seeing the Diff fill ! But what about the transfer case ?
Can you please help me my subframe bolt broke like yours so there’s not head on it anymore how did you remove it?
how did you get the subframe and motor mount broken bolts out i have the same issue, but can you get them out if they break
Wait wasn’t this recently uploaded?
It was uploaded 8 months ago that's weird
Sometimes they missed things or just came out with a better updated version
Yea , I guess I’ll just look to get a new car,
😥
I just finished up the oil pan i some how cant get the sway bar back onto the subframe i have the car at ride height its off by a few inches any tips
If it's off by a few inches, you must set it to ride height correctly and try again. Make sure your end links are in the correct position as well and nothing is binding up!
Where is the link in the description for the seal driver? Do you know what size the tool is that you used in the video? Thanks!
Here you go! www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-dorn-83300493539
Mike, was this an automatic transmission?
Hi Jay, this was done on a manual transmission e91.
I was afraid of dying with the engine falling on me so took it to the shop
am I the only one who's tow hook didn't properly fit in the top support thread next to the valve cover?
How much did it cost? I have to replace the oil pan gasket on my 2006 Z4 🙏
@@fabiospataro9494 $700 to a shop that is known to be a good value. They charge $100/hour in theory. They did gasket + bolts + engine mounts too ( my parts from FCP) and then added a surprise control arm as one bolt broke in the process.
@@bogdanarsene9602x drive car?
$100/hr. Wow. In my area it is a well over $2000 job.
do you guys service peoples cars at your CT location?
What are the torque spec for the pan bolts on a N47?
What engine support bar did you use? What tow hook did you use?
Tow hook is your tow hook in the trunk by spare tire.
What size is the diff seal I can’t seem to find one
Here is a diagram for you; you can enter and search the parts numbers on FCPEuro.com to see what is available!
etkbmw.cc/en/bmw/cars/E91/Tou/BMW+328xi+model+49555/USA/31/31_0718
Hay guys. I have a BMW x5 go5 2019. Can you tell me if there is a fuel filter that you can replace also if they have a water separator? Thanks guys.
Gasoline. Fuel filters are in tank with pressure regulator. Whole unit.
"a couple more tools we need just because of lack of space.... ". 😱
👀😬
Not trying to be rude, but the "alright my good people" got pretty repetitive and a little annoying.... Otherwise thank you for such a useful video. 🙏🏼
Sorry :( - Mike
I didn’t mind it at all, he’s being friendly which a lot of people need to be more of now a days
I hear they put silicone on the gasket too,so thats not really needed correct?
Local shop quoted me $3500 to replace the oil pan gasket. BMW calls for 18 hours for this repair.
bmw quoted me $2959.07 when they did a vehicle check after they did recall work for me. will not be taking it to them if i take it anywhere at all 🤣