Very helpful video. I was able to pull the water pump off with out placing the front end in service mode or removing the supercharger. It’s very tight but with the right tools you can get it off with limited removal of items.
You were able to replace the water pump without removing the supercharger? What about the t-stat? My water pump just dumped all the coolant and I'm in emergency repair. I really don't have the time to do the PCV and everything at once. I just need the water pump replaced for now. Please help with any insight. I have a 2015 Q5 TFSI 3.0.
@@mk_ultrarunner I’m waiting for my parts to come in but I didn’t need to pull the supercharger off to remove water pump on 2018 a6. It was a tight squeeze between engine to cooling fans. Not sure how much more space you have in a q5. For t-stat you’re going to definitely need to pull supercharger off. Make sure to use correct size torx but and don’t strip them. Take your time. Best to break water pump pulley bolts loose while belt is still on.
@@andrequiroz4657 Thanks. It's still a tight squeeze but I definitely don't want to put the car in to service mode. Gonna be a real pain with all those coolant lines to remove still. I may just go ahead and remove the supercharger to get the t-stat and water pump done, but the PCV body may have to be a different project for a different day. I suppose if the PCV was the primary issue (I do have a code, but no dash lights), I would go ahead and do everything, but my car is undriveable at the moment.
@@mk_ultrarunnerwhy would putting it in service mode be a hassle? I assume your talking about the bumper, few bolts and it tilts forward. That what you mean?
Hey man, really good vid going through that process :) Good detail and pacing, easy to watch. Mines coming up to 85k miles so no doubt will need to attack all this soon. Good tip about the doors, it priming the fuel pump as they open could definitely catch people out. Have seen mixed results with injector cleaning on these as people say they cant be flow tested properly afterwards due to the testers not having high enough pressure? So maybe worth getting new ones while you're in there. Will be cool to see the intake cleaning Just as a couple of extra steps, I'd also clean the leaves out from under the cowling cover, as even though it was vacuumed on top I found a load of leaves under there which could start to build up water. Also on mine I've had the oil pressure sensors fail. There was actually a TSB on them (2036761/1) and the updated p/n's are: Top sensor 038919081P Rear sensor 06E919081G They're like £30 for both sensors and relatively easy to replace (more room with s/c off but not necessary) and well worth it to do because the low/no oil pressure warnings certainly get your attention the way it beeps madly at you 😂
You da man! Thank you :) It’s funny you should mention injector cleaning. I already have to order two new injectors and I want to see where they are at before ordering the rest. I have found a cheaper OEM option though. I need to dig more into the leaves and will take a look under the cowl. Thank you! Really appreciate the kind words. I think I was 50 hours into just the editing alone :D
IIRC the part number for the injectors matches with what VW use on the touareg, and they often have them listed for cheaper as well if it helps :)@@FindingSeconds
the opening the doors only primes the pump in tank. will not spray out anywhere near the fuel rail or fuel connections on the engine, until its started.
Can you please help the part number of that crossover cooling pipe o-ring? The one that runs in the V. Can't find it anywhere and can't put my car together with the old one of course. Thanks!
2016 Audi SQ5 Prestige here. Will I have to remove the belt and all that stuff to get to my PCV REGULATOR? I'm thinking of diy-ing but this seems like a job that'll be super stressful.
Supercharger belt yes. I guess you could leave the other belt on but if you go this far it would be a shame not to replace the water pump and thermostat too.
@FindingSeconds Thermostat and Water Pump already replaced by previous owner. I was also told that the breather hose of the PCV is the main culprit. But most say if your doing all that work, just change the PCV as well. Did you have an issue where the code popped back up after you did it all?
Does a failed pcv valve cause coolant to mix with the engine oil? I had a lot of oil in the cylinder heads I had to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine manually to remove the oil out. I’m also thinking it could be a failed head gasket no too sure! SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!
Failed PCV could cause oil/water mix but so could head gasket. Perform a compression test and leak down test before you do anything else. You can also do an exhaust gas test on coolant expansion tank. Is the exhaust smoking at all?
The way I would approach that is looking up the part numbers for each component on both cars. If they are the same it would be straightforward. I don’t know anything about the A6 platform unfortunately. I would imagine some parts wouldn’t transfer.
I have 2011 Audi s4 has stage 2 plus with smaller Reno pully but intercooler is stock My problem is when I start car no any smoke when I drive no any smoke But when I slow down when I press break car is getting slow like gears 4-3-2-1 smoking white and sometimes mix blue but usually white but when I press gas back I mean when I get fast and regular driving no any smoke when I stop no any smoke only when I get slow down with the break or without break smoking from exhaust (not really too much )but till ı press gas pedal back its smoking when ı get fast it is stopping right away …my problem is could be pcv ? My headgasket got damage already or no ? No overheating No any codes
Hello I have a question about a 2019 A7. I'm having an issue with the vaccum line connected to the water pump. My water pump model is the one with the shroud that prevents coolant flow to warm up the engine faster... I'm having an issue where when turned on from a cold start, the vaccum line does not stop vaccum push when the engine reaches operating temperature, which then causes the overheating error. In your experience, what would be causing the vaccum line to not release when the engine reaches operating temp? I usually have to let the vehicle seat for maybe 5 to 10 minutes from a cold start before I can start driving with the overheating error to pop up.
@@FindingSeconds no I am not. I recently replaced the water pump, thermostat, coolant bypass valve, pcv unit and PCV valve. All done at local German shop so not audi dealership and I'm wondering if something wasn't done right. But back to the vaccum line, I took it to Audi last week and they couldn't find anything. No leaks nowhere. So based on my symptoms, i am assuming it's the water pump vaccum line because it only overheats within 5 minutes of a cold start and ONLY if I drive it soon as the rpm drops after the initial start... If I let it sit and let the coolant reach 3+ ticks on the coolant gauge, I can drive it all day without issues and floor it all I want. Which leads me to think that it's the shroud covering the expeller in the water pump that's not withdrawing down, which then tells me there is a constant vaccum push keeping it up. So I'm not sure if it's my ECU that's damaged or whatnot.. Also I just remembered, I replaced the coolant temperature sensors, 2 of them... The ones I replaced them with did not have the same part number as the ones the Audi dealership wanted to use, but the Audi website did say that the part I bought was applicable to my model year and make.
Take a look at the TSBs for your car. There is a video on the channel that show you how to look them up on the government site. Long story short, some parts are superseded by Audi and when they are it requires a software update to be compatible. If you can find a TSB related to the sensors or the thermostat it might help you track down your issue.
If the pulley is wobbling it’s either not attached to the water pump correctly or the water pump has failed. Definitely worth checking. Squeals can be caused by many things but a new belt once you have fixed the wobbly pulley should eliminate that.
Have a look here to see if the one you need is listed: parts.audiusa.com/productSearch.aspx?ukey_make=5792&ukey_model=0&modelYear=0&ukey_trimLevel=0&ukey_driveline=0&searchTerm=Vacuum
I always use the official Audi site for that. With used vehicles it’s difficult to know if the correct bolt has been installed. Here’s an example from the Audi site with the water pump: parts.audiusa.com/a/Audi_2010_S4-Base-Sedan-30L-V6-AT/67800922__5970142/WATER-PUMP/1399107.html#1
The TSB below has all of the details. Long story short, the older PCV ran the crankcase pressure higher than the new one. It resulted in increased oil consumption. Switching to the new revision the ECU has to be reflashed to stop it throwing a code when it see’s a lower crankcase pressure. Hope that helps! static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10119987-9999.pdf
@@FindingSeconds so did you upgrade from a white top to a black top. I bought from FCP Euro and they just sent me the white top again. I've got 2,800 miles on my new oil and everything and the oil has dropped halfway on the digital gauge. So much for helping oil consumption.
Hi guys i have an SQ5 2017 B8.5 , recently a fault code has appeared “P1B1C00” as i found out it’s related to the coolant system codes , i changed a new water pump and some other check up but still there . Everything is looks brand new in the car The only symptom that i can feel is when accelerating i can feel there is something wrong between the gears when it shift from one to another . A weird sound “Trrrrrrrr” that’s the closest to the sound 😂 . I am not sure if it’s from the gear or the engine But i couldn’t find out where is the real problem . Any ideas !!
Sounds more like a transmission problem. If the engine revs freely, and if you put it into a single gear and can go in/out of the throttle without the noise.. more than likely not the engine.
Too much plastic on the engine bay, and to be topped off by plastic prop on the pump (OEM)... an absolute must DO... change the water pump and the PCV valve and at the same time take advantage to de-carbon the intake valves, add the thermostat and get all the plastic replaced, I know the logo and front vista on the engine look nice but it is better to get rid of them... way much cooler engine, at last get some new belt tensioners and guide pulleys... CRAZY ......
Always best to 100% confirm. I checked the PCV valve for example on FCP and parts.audiusa.com. The figment there indicated it was for 2010-2012. Looking for the same part name on the 2013 indicated it there was a newer AH version. This is assuming US model years. Where are you ordering from?
I’ve tried looking a few times but I can find a good parts lookup for you. The US model years are slightly different (10 cars were sold in 2009). Also there might be slight variations from region to region due to local regulations. Might be best to call a dealer.
@@FindingSeconds I made the mistake of not replacing this hose even though it was part of the kit from FCP Euro. I added parts individually to save money, but would have been better off just ordering everything. I did buy a new clamp and the hose looked good. However, after everything that I thought caused me to replace the PCV body, I'm still getting a PCV regulator code. Great! The one code I thought was the PCV body is actually the dumb breather hose. Now I get to pull the SC again.
@@FindingSeconds np! What happened is that I lost the new pin(felt down with no trace, haha) and tried adding old back. It sit snug and all looked fine (checked after running idle) until… car heated up and it began not to hold up the sensor(somehow). I am quite positive it was unbroken as well as installed properly (both sides equal, etc). Will try to inspect later today whats an issue and why it did not hold - been doing it without charger off, thus its a pain 🙈
Thanks man, appreciated all the hard work and detail you put into this video.
My pleasure!
Very helpful video. I was able to pull the water pump off with out placing the front end in service mode or removing the supercharger. It’s very tight but with the right tools you can get it off with limited removal of items.
That’s fantastic! Nice work :)
You were able to replace the water pump without removing the supercharger? What about the t-stat? My water pump just dumped all the coolant and I'm in emergency repair. I really don't have the time to do the PCV and everything at once. I just need the water pump replaced for now. Please help with any insight. I have a 2015 Q5 TFSI 3.0.
@@mk_ultrarunner I’m waiting for my parts to come in but I didn’t need to pull the supercharger off to remove water pump on 2018 a6. It was a tight squeeze between engine to cooling fans. Not sure how much more space you have in a q5. For t-stat you’re going to definitely need to pull supercharger off. Make sure to use correct size torx but and don’t strip them. Take your time. Best to break water pump pulley bolts loose while belt is still on.
@@andrequiroz4657 Thanks. It's still a tight squeeze but I definitely don't want to put the car in to service mode. Gonna be a real pain with all those coolant lines to remove still. I may just go ahead and remove the supercharger to get the t-stat and water pump done, but the PCV body may have to be a different project for a different day. I suppose if the PCV was the primary issue (I do have a code, but no dash lights), I would go ahead and do everything, but my car is undriveable at the moment.
@@mk_ultrarunnerwhy would putting it in service mode be a hassle? I assume your talking about the bumper, few bolts and it tilts forward. That what you mean?
im going to be undertaking this job very soon for same parts replacement
Let us know how you get on:)
Hey man, really good vid going through that process :) Good detail and pacing, easy to watch. Mines coming up to 85k miles so no doubt will need to attack all this soon.
Good tip about the doors, it priming the fuel pump as they open could definitely catch people out.
Have seen mixed results with injector cleaning on these as people say they cant be flow tested properly afterwards due to the testers not having high enough pressure? So maybe worth getting new ones while you're in there. Will be cool to see the intake cleaning
Just as a couple of extra steps, I'd also clean the leaves out from under the cowling cover, as even though it was vacuumed on top I found a load of leaves under there which could start to build up water.
Also on mine I've had the oil pressure sensors fail. There was actually a TSB on them (2036761/1) and the updated p/n's are:
Top sensor 038919081P
Rear sensor 06E919081G
They're like £30 for both sensors and relatively easy to replace (more room with s/c off but not necessary) and well worth it to do because the low/no oil pressure warnings certainly get your attention the way it beeps madly at you 😂
You da man! Thank you :) It’s funny you should mention injector cleaning. I already have to order two new injectors and I want to see where they are at before ordering the rest. I have found a cheaper OEM option though.
I need to dig more into the leaves and will take a look under the cowl. Thank you!
Really appreciate the kind words. I think I was 50 hours into just the editing alone :D
IIRC the part number for the injectors matches with what VW use on the touareg, and they often have them listed for cheaper as well if it helps :)@@FindingSeconds
the opening the doors only primes the pump in tank. will not spray out anywhere near the fuel rail or fuel connections on the engine, until its started.
This video is an awesome guide. I'm about to tackle this job0
Thanks!
Dude I’m saving this video, I got quoted $5k on a water pump and pvc replacement 🥴
It's nutty! Be sure to check out the latest video of the re-assembly too!
@ I’ve been watching your whole Chanel’s since last night 😂😂
Awesome! Hopefully some of it was useful :)
Can you please help the part number of that crossover cooling pipe o-ring? The one that runs in the V. Can't find it anywhere and can't put my car together with the old one of course. Thanks!
Is this the one 06E121119K? www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-engine-coolant-pipe-o-ring-outer-vag-06e121119e
2016 Audi SQ5 Prestige here. Will I have to remove the belt and all that stuff to get to my PCV REGULATOR? I'm thinking of diy-ing but this seems like a job that'll be super stressful.
Supercharger belt yes. I guess you could leave the other belt on but if you go this far it would be a shame not to replace the water pump and thermostat too.
@FindingSeconds Thermostat and Water Pump already replaced by previous owner.
I was also told that the breather hose of the PCV is the main culprit. But most say if your doing all that work, just change the PCV as well. Did you have an issue where the code popped back up after you did it all?
Nope, just over 8k miles, 3 track days and still going strong :)
Does a failed pcv valve cause coolant to mix with the engine oil? I had a lot of oil in the cylinder heads I had to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine manually to remove the oil out. I’m also thinking it could be a failed head gasket no too sure! SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!
Failed PCV could cause oil/water mix but so could head gasket. Perform a compression test and leak down test before you do anything else. You can also do an exhaust gas test on coolant expansion tank. Is the exhaust smoking at all?
Hi, I would like to know if it would be difficult to put the engine, gearbox and quattro drive from an Audi A6 2012 into an Audi A4 2011?
The way I would approach that is looking up the part numbers for each component on both cars. If they are the same it would be straightforward. I don’t know anything about the A6 platform unfortunately. I would imagine some parts wouldn’t transfer.
@@FindingSeconds Thanks
Thank you very much brother mashalla
You are most welcome!
I have 2011 Audi s4 has stage 2 plus with smaller Reno pully but intercooler is stock
My problem is when I start car no any smoke when I drive no any smoke
But when I slow down when I press break car is getting slow like gears 4-3-2-1 smoking white and sometimes mix blue but usually white but when I press gas back I mean when I get fast and regular driving no any smoke when I stop no any smoke only when I get slow down with the break or without break smoking from exhaust (not really too much )but till ı press gas pedal back its smoking when ı get fast it is stopping right away …my problem is could be pcv ? My headgasket got damage already or no ?
No overheating
No any codes
Are you losing any coolant? What is your oil consumption like?
great video
Thanks!
Hello I have a question about a 2019 A7. I'm having an issue with the vaccum line connected to the water pump. My water pump model is the one with the shroud that prevents coolant flow to warm up the engine faster... I'm having an issue where when turned on from a cold start, the vaccum line does not stop vaccum push when the engine reaches operating temperature, which then causes the overheating error. In your experience, what would be causing the vaccum line to not release when the engine reaches operating temp? I usually have to let the vehicle seat for maybe 5 to 10 minutes from a cold start before I can start driving with the overheating error to pop up.
Are you losing any coolant?
@@FindingSeconds no I am not. I recently replaced the water pump, thermostat, coolant bypass valve, pcv unit and PCV valve. All done at local German shop so not audi dealership and I'm wondering if something wasn't done right.
But back to the vaccum line, I took it to Audi last week and they couldn't find anything. No leaks nowhere. So based on my symptoms, i am assuming it's the water pump vaccum line because it only overheats within 5 minutes of a cold start and ONLY if I drive it soon as the rpm drops after the initial start... If I let it sit and let the coolant reach 3+ ticks on the coolant gauge, I can drive it all day without issues and floor it all I want. Which leads me to think that it's the shroud covering the expeller in the water pump that's not withdrawing down, which then tells me there is a constant vaccum push keeping it up. So I'm not sure if it's my ECU that's damaged or whatnot..
Also I just remembered, I replaced the coolant temperature sensors, 2 of them... The ones I replaced them with did not have the same part number as the ones the Audi dealership wanted to use, but the Audi website did say that the part I bought was applicable to my model year and make.
Take a look at the TSBs for your car. There is a video on the channel that show you how to look them up on the government site. Long story short, some parts are superseded by Audi and when they are it requires a software update to be compatible. If you can find a TSB related to the sensors or the thermostat it might help you track down your issue.
@@FindingSeconds oh wow. Ok understood. Wow
@@FindingSeconds thank you very much
I have a question. My water pump pulley has a wobble on my 2015 Audi S5 and it also squeals. Will replacing this fix these issues?
If the pulley is wobbling it’s either not attached to the water pump correctly or the water pump has failed. Definitely worth checking. Squeals can be caused by many things but a new belt once you have fixed the wobbly pulley should eliminate that.
@@FindingSeconds edit, I was able to determine that the squeal is coming from the supercharger belt. Sheesh
Nice find. Definitely want to replace that one :)
What’s the name of the vacuum lines? I need to order new ones mine just broke when doing a service 8:03
Have a look here to see if the one you need is listed: parts.audiusa.com/productSearch.aspx?ukey_make=5792&ukey_model=0&modelYear=0&ukey_trimLevel=0&ukey_driveline=0&searchTerm=Vacuum
is all this the same for the CWGC engine?
I googled CWGC but I didn’t find any references to an Audi engine?
Awesome .
Thanks!
The bolts(screws ) # would be awesome
I always use the official Audi site for that. With used vehicles it’s difficult to know if the correct bolt has been installed. Here’s an example from the Audi site with the water pump: parts.audiusa.com/a/Audi_2010_S4-Base-Sedan-30L-V6-AT/67800922__5970142/WATER-PUMP/1399107.html#1
So if the waterpump has play lt needs replacing right can someone with a honest answer please help and thank you
How much play is there? Is your coolant level going down?
How many miles are on this car?
At this point there was 116,741 miles on the clock. Currently it’s at 123,495 and still going strong :)
Why if the pcv wasn’t a white top you would have to get the ecu retuned ?
The TSB below has all of the details. Long story short, the older PCV ran the crankcase pressure higher than the new one. It resulted in increased oil consumption. Switching to the new revision the ECU has to be reflashed to stop it throwing a code when it see’s a lower crankcase pressure. Hope that helps!
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10119987-9999.pdf
@@FindingSeconds I have a 2015. Will I need to have my ECU reflashed after a PCV change? TSB refers to a 2009-2012.
Good question and good answer now i know why .
@@FindingSeconds so did you upgrade from a white top to a black top. I bought from FCP Euro and they just sent me the white top again. I've got 2,800 miles on my new oil and everything and the oil has dropped halfway on the digital gauge. So much for helping oil consumption.
Hi guys i have an SQ5 2017 B8.5 , recently a fault code has appeared “P1B1C00” as i found out it’s related to the coolant system codes , i changed a new water pump and some other check up but still there . Everything is looks brand new in the car The only symptom that i can feel is when accelerating i can feel there is something wrong between the gears when it shift from one to another . A weird sound “Trrrrrrrr” that’s the closest to the sound 😂 . I am not sure if it’s from the gear or the engine But i couldn’t find out where is the real problem . Any ideas !!
Sounds more like a transmission problem. If the engine revs freely, and if you put it into a single gear and can go in/out of the throttle without the noise.. more than likely not the engine.
are you excepting to do rapier's ?
Sorry. I’m not sure what you are referring to. Autocorrect issue by chance?
Too much plastic on the engine bay, and to be topped off by plastic prop on the pump (OEM)... an absolute must DO... change the water pump and the PCV valve and at the same time take advantage to de-carbon the intake valves, add the thermostat and get all the plastic replaced, I know the logo and front vista on the engine look nice but it is better to get rid of them... way much cooler engine, at last get some new belt tensioners and guide pulleys... CRAZY ......
Agreed! I was amazed many of the components lasted this long!
Which year is this car on mate? Thank you
2010 :)
@@FindingSeconds are the part numbers work on a s5 b8.5 2013?
Always best to 100% confirm. I checked the PCV valve for example on FCP and parts.audiusa.com. The figment there indicated it was for 2010-2012. Looking for the same part name on the 2013 indicated it there was a newer AH version. This is assuming US model years. Where are you ordering from?
@@FindingSeconds The uk, will it be different? so would be really helpful to know . Thanks a lot!!
I’ve tried looking a few times but I can find a good parts lookup for you. The US model years are slightly different (10 cars were sold in 2009). Also there might be slight variations from region to region due to local regulations. Might be best to call a dealer.
What is the pipe at 25:27 for?
Vacum or coolant?
It's the PCV breather hose. It's connected to the intake via a check valve. So air vs coolant.
@@FindingSeconds thank you
Anytime, thank you for watching :)
@@FindingSeconds I made the mistake of not replacing this hose even though it was part of the kit from FCP Euro. I added parts individually to save money, but would have been better off just ordering everything. I did buy a new clamp and the hose looked good. However, after everything that I thought caused me to replace the PCV body, I'm still getting a PCV regulator code. Great! The one code I thought was the PCV body is actually the dumb breather hose. Now I get to pull the SC again.
24:40 - did it worked? Cause... It did not hold in my case, haha!
The new OEM bolts held for me :)
@@FindingSeconds I am about coolant temp sensor black pin (which you re-used, old one)
Ah sorry! I thought I found the right time but I failed :( Yes it did work. Did yours break then?
@@FindingSeconds np! What happened is that I lost the new pin(felt down with no trace, haha) and tried adding old back. It sit snug and all looked fine (checked after running idle) until… car heated up and it began not to hold up the sensor(somehow). I am quite positive it was unbroken as well as installed properly (both sides equal, etc). Will try to inspect later today whats an issue and why it did not hold - been doing it without charger off, thus its a pain 🙈
@@FindingSeconds update! It was bent o-ring, not the pin issue :)
Knipex front pliers will take them off
Thanks!
For the PCV pipes?