Відео

No oil has been fine and the blackstone reports show no issue. You’ll also see a little in the connecting tube. Replaced for good measure. Could have been from short trips but as the oil analysis has been clear I wasn’t worried.

This kit had: Supplied with PnP axles with Porsche 930 inner CV, chrome-moly axle bars, and upgraded outer CVs. v8roadsters.com/product/8-8-differential-conversion/

Can you help the community understand why? I think it would be fantastic to hear the other side to this story. Thanks!

With a vice grip slide hammer :( www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81789/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD6OBRHtuFYB79k3FkzHtu1yFJ5PS&gclid=CjwKCAjwuMC2BhA7EiwAmJKRrNAmJWIjp1jh7gYfmG2b1RH4GpuoRgmN0V5pGI2oNnpXuNwGXuyhhhoCYRgQAvD_BwE

@@FindingSeconds Thanks man, really appreciate everything you share with us!

​@@MariusTrifan-c9pI would love to share more but editing takes so long! Know any budding video editors that want to get involved in a channel? 😊

Agreed! I was amazed many of the components lasted this long!

Are you losing any coolant?

@@FindingSeconds no I am not. I recently replaced the water pump, thermostat, coolant bypass valve, pcv unit and PCV valve. All done at local German shop so not audi dealership and I'm wondering if something wasn't done right. But back to the vaccum line, I took it to Audi last week and they couldn't find anything. No leaks nowhere. So based on my symptoms, i am assuming it's the water pump vaccum line because it only overheats within 5 minutes of a cold start and ONLY if I drive it soon as the rpm drops after the initial start... If I let it sit and let the coolant reach 3+ ticks on the coolant gauge, I can drive it all day without issues and floor it all I want. Which leads me to think that it's the shroud covering the expeller in the water pump that's not withdrawing down, which then tells me there is a constant vaccum push keeping it up. So I'm not sure if it's my ECU that's damaged or whatnot.. Also I just remembered, I replaced the coolant temperature sensors, 2 of them... The ones I replaced them with did not have the same part number as the ones the Audi dealership wanted to use, but the Audi website did say that the part I bought was applicable to my model year and make.

Take a look at the TSBs for your car. There is a video on the channel that show you how to look them up on the government site. Long story short, some parts are superseded by Audi and when they are it requires a software update to be compatible. If you can find a TSB related to the sensors or the thermostat it might help you track down your issue.

@@FindingSeconds oh wow. Ok understood. Wow

@@FindingSeconds thank you very much

Send me a picture. Contact details are in the channel about section. I doubt it’s too much of a problem.

@@FindingSeconds Thanks for the reply! Sent an email

Thanks. I was amazed at how much runs under the supercharger!

Failed PCV could cause oil/water mix but so could head gasket. Perform a compression test and leak down test before you do anything else. You can also do an exhaust gas test on coolant expansion tank. Is the exhaust smoking at all?

I always use the official Audi site for that. With used vehicles it’s difficult to know if the correct bolt has been installed. Here’s an example from the Audi site with the water pump: parts.audiusa.com/a/Audi_2010_S4-Base-Sedan-30L-V6-AT/67800922__5970142/WATER-PUMP/1399107.html#1

Thanks!

If the pulley is wobbling it’s either not attached to the water pump correctly or the water pump has failed. Definitely worth checking. Squeals can be caused by many things but a new belt once you have fixed the wobbly pulley should eliminate that.

@@FindingSeconds edit, I was able to determine that the squeal is coming from the supercharger belt. Sheesh

Nice find. Definitely want to replace that one :)

Let us know how you get on:)

Injector service from external companies can be all over the place. These direct injectors for sure can be a little more expensive.

You’re welcome!

You are welcome!

Thanks!

We need to do that. Heading to MidOhio right now. I have a friend in CA I’ve been meaning to visit. Shall we plan for September/October? :)

Any of those months is good! I only have plans to bounce next weekend cause it’s my birthday weekend!

Thanks! Trying to get to the point of releasing videos more frequently :)

Have you used a BMW scan tool to look for codes? If it is misfiring noticeably there should be at least a stored code in there. That might help narrow things down.

It’s because they stretch when you torque them. Basically just weaker if you reuse: rts.i-car.com/crn-1316.html#:~:text=What%20is%20a%20torque%2Dto,box%2C%20and%20suspension%20mounting%20locations.

@@FindingSeconds thank you

Thanks!

That’s fantastic! Nice work :)

You were able to replace the water pump without removing the supercharger? What about the t-stat? My water pump just dumped all the coolant and I'm in emergency repair. I really don't have the time to do the PCV and everything at once. I just need the water pump replaced for now. Please help with any insight. I have a 2015 Q5 TFSI 3.0.

@@mk_ultrarunner I’m waiting for my parts to come in but I didn’t need to pull the supercharger off to remove water pump on 2018 a6. It was a tight squeeze between engine to cooling fans. Not sure how much more space you have in a q5. For t-stat you’re going to definitely need to pull supercharger off. Make sure to use correct size torx but and don’t strip them. Take your time. Best to break water pump pulley bolts loose while belt is still on.

@@andrequiroz4657 Thanks. It's still a tight squeeze but I definitely don't want to put the car in to service mode. Gonna be a real pain with all those coolant lines to remove still. I may just go ahead and remove the supercharger to get the t-stat and water pump done, but the PCV body may have to be a different project for a different day. I suppose if the PCV was the primary issue (I do have a code, but no dash lights), I would go ahead and do everything, but my car is undriveable at the moment.

@@mk_ultrarunnerwhy would putting it in service mode be a hassle? I assume your talking about the bumper, few bolts and it tilts forward. That what you mean?

That sucks :( Start by swapping the coil from cylinder 1 to 2 and 2 to 1. See if it follows the coil. Then do the same with the plugs. Even new parts can fail out of the box. That will at least eliminate those parts. Beyond that, unfortunately you might have to dig into the injectors :( Did you do anything to the injectors whilst you had the supercharger off? Double check the wiring to 2 and look at the connector contacts.

@FindingSeconds First many thanks for responding! I did not take out injectors, I did remove intake runners to clean & clean valves. When removing connectors to injectors the tabs broke so I bought new connectors to replace. I think I know where I'm going next....back to see the injectors. Checking OBD Eleven again to see if I can test electric to injectors/ performance test.

@@stevek9670anytime you remove supercharger you have to replace the 6 rubber rings. If you removed the manifold you need to replace the 6 more . They are green and orange. While in there people replace the round tube that is under the supercharger it’s like 10 bucks but can get clogged. The other issue might be you accidentally squished or damaged one of the injector rings , they’re the ones that sit at the very top of injectors, the green ones. They can sometimes get pulled off when removing supercharger

@Pwnulolumad I did replace all of what you stated, including injector orings. Just had grad party prep so it's soon I'll roll it back in to hopefully resolve. Honestly seems weird that under 2,500 RPM no codes... One thing I have seen is a required software refresh after PCV replacement (on some types). I'm not sure if mine is the one. No PCV codes however was reason 1 other than 199K refresh....

As long as it is only a top up you are fine. If the overflow tank is empty, you might get an air bubble. Either way the cooling system is a sealed system. You’ll need to hunt down why you are low. These cars are prone to oil and coolant leaks. Don’t let things drag on as it will get expensive!

I’m sorry, wasn’t intentional. I’ve updated the title. Appreciate the feedback.

My lips are sealed! :)

Glad it was helpful!

Check out this video for that: VANOS solenoids bleeding and replacement in 5 minutes! (E60 V10 M5) ua-cam.com/video/ZKfqa0QRWso/v-deo.html

The new OEM bolts held for me :)

@@FindingSeconds I am about coolant temp sensor black pin (which you re-used, old one)

Ah sorry! I thought I found the right time but I failed :( Yes it did work. Did yours break then?

@@FindingSeconds np! What happened is that I lost the new pin(felt down with no trace, haha) and tried adding old back. It sit snug and all looked fine (checked after running idle) until… car heated up and it began not to hold up the sensor(somehow). I am quite positive it was unbroken as well as installed properly (both sides equal, etc). Will try to inspect later today whats an issue and why it did not hold - been doing it without charger off, thus its a pain 🙈

@@FindingSeconds update! It was bent o-ring, not the pin issue :)

2010 :)

@@FindingSeconds are the part numbers work on a s5 b8.5 2013?

Always best to 100% confirm. I checked the PCV valve for example on FCP and parts.audiusa.com. The figment there indicated it was for 2010-2012. Looking for the same part name on the 2013 indicated it there was a newer AH version. This is assuming US model years. Where are you ordering from?

@@FindingSeconds The uk, will it be different? so would be really helpful to know . Thanks a lot!!

I’ve tried looking a few times but I can find a good parts lookup for you. The US model years are slightly different (10 cars were sold in 2009). Also there might be slight variations from region to region due to local regulations. Might be best to call a dealer.

As far as I can tell it would be similar. Unfortunately I don't know enough about the later BMWs or the 330i. Might want to look for a workshop manual or access to TIS. I did a quick search but like you may have already found, there aren't many videos or data on that part/car yet :( Sorry!

Thanks!

For the PCV pipes?

Thanks! If it's the 7-speed then yes. Looks like there was a 6-speed auto also that year. That will be different.

@@FindingSeconds I have the 6 speed tip tronic so where is the difference?

The TSB below has all of the details. Long story short, the older PCV ran the crankcase pressure higher than the new one. It resulted in increased oil consumption. Switching to the new revision the ECU has to be reflashed to stop it throwing a code when it see’s a lower crankcase pressure. Hope that helps! static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10119987-9999.pdf

@@FindingSeconds I have a 2015. Will I need to have my ECU reflashed after a PCV change? TSB refers to a 2009-2012.

Good question and good answer now i know why .

@@FindingSeconds so did you upgrade from a white top to a black top. I bought from FCP Euro and they just sent me the white top again. I've got 2,800 miles on my new oil and everything and the oil has dropped halfway on the digital gauge. So much for helping oil consumption.

No such thing as a silly question :) In short no. The bleeding procedure works the system and keeps building/releasing pressure. This helps work out the air internally. Great question!

@@FindingSeconds thanks!!!

Anytime 🙂

Best I had out of the rotary was 22.1mpg (US gallon) on the drive home from buying the car (1800 miles). With the LS3 it will do 19-20 around town :) I haven’t done any big road trips yet to do a fair comparison. Round town the RX-8 was 15.

It for sure changes the balance. I've heard of a few lfx swaps now, are you doing one? Would love to learn about your experience.

@@FindingSeconds I’ve thoroughly looked into lfx swap and once my compression goes bad in my current rx8, ill br doing the swap.

Let us know how you get on. Would love to follow your build.

Nope, all good with the starter. It's just a way to wire in the starter and the alternator. Each of them have to be directly connected to +12V. You can either run the wires in series like I have or in parallel. The starter is the thing that draws the most current on the car when cranking. This way you can run the largest wire to to the starter and then smaller wires from there. Just got used to doing this on race cars!

@FindingSeconds ....after I run mine for a bit, turn it off and then go to restart, it will slow crank for a bit almost like it doesn't want to start.....but then it cranks fast and fires right up. Acts like the battery is dead for a bit. That's why I asked. Any ideas?

If it does it every time, check your battery voltage just before starting it a second time. If that all checks out it is likely a ground or 12v connection somewhere. Just checking you have a ground strap for the engine to chassis? I think I may have a couple. I have another video on the channel that digs more into the electrical side of things.

Is it a new OEM starter? A defunct starter will also behave as you are describing once heat soaked.

@FindingSeconds ....just bought the car over the weekend. I plan on testing everything next weekend and reporting back. I have a feeling it's a ground but I wanted to ask your opinion in advance. I like your videos and appreciate the time it took for you to make them. Thank you!

It's the PCV breather hose. It's connected to the intake via a check valve. So air vs coolant.

@@FindingSeconds thank you

Anytime, thank you for watching :)

@@FindingSeconds I made the mistake of not replacing this hose even though it was part of the kit from FCP Euro. I added parts individually to save money, but would have been better off just ordering everything. I did buy a new clamp and the hose looked good. However, after everything that I thought caused me to replace the PCV body, I'm still getting a PCV regulator code. Great! The one code I thought was the PCV body is actually the dumb breather hose. Now I get to pull the SC again.

Cool, thanks! Appreciate the sub. More videos on the way. Balancing job with family and the passion which is UA-cam!

Glad it was helpful!

It’s on the right at the rear. Same side as the fuel cap.

@@FindingSeconds thank you

Anytime!

What model year is your A3 and which engine do you have?

It's a 2012 1.5 litre paddle shift

I’ve been searching but I can find very little information on that one. What country is the car in?

Yes it's in the UK

Sorry. I’m not sure what you are referring to. Autocorrect issue by chance?

The TSBs I show (and the ones you can find on the site for your car) talk about a possible SW update. Do you have anyway to pull the SW version of the unit?

I can look what SW version is on, do you know the SW version which is the possible fix? Thanks

Did you fix the problem I experience exactly the same problems hesitation in reverse and weird 1-2 shifts

Thanks!

I am :)

The FCP video I link to gives a really good description. I was just hoping to show everyone the complete process in a compressed time.

I did not. Audi recommends changing it every 30-40K so not sure how different the oil will be. I haven't found any official documentation saying an adaptation was needed. Is this something you have seen?

Yes there are a few videos showing the adaptation via VCDS after a service. Just priced the parts from Audi including new bolts for the cross brace £370.