CHECK THE END PLAY...check the compression. check the oil pressure with a gauge. put one of those screw on ones on where the oil pressure sending unit screws on. then decide if you should just keep going on the engine.
You should look into changing your set up. There are so many things you can do to have everything work much smoother. It was frustrating watching that but, it was also fun to see a fellow VW enthusiasts. Great job over all.
I’d say that’s an arterial bleed! Pretty much what everyone else is saying. Oil cooler seals. Check compression. Check end play. Push rod tubes seals. Clutch and accelerator cables. Etc, etc. nice work man.
Such a cool car. One of my late buddies had one just like this but he had a Porsche engine in it and added a turbo. Kept the outside bone stock. He used to laugh as he passed AMG Mercedes and Challengers, Chargers, and Mustangs. I called it the evil jellybean.
Excellent video CT :) I say that Clutch plate from 1960 to 1980 years like one was on my late Dad farm tractor of 1963 McCormick International B414 40 hp Loader tractor Desiel motor had for Clutch Plate was Double sides one for Transmission other P.T.O. Power Take Off and be flip over too use both ways! Second was 1968 International Pick up 1300 Series 1 ton truck had 345 V8 4barrel Holley hand choke 1000 CFM with Eaton D18 Manual transmission with Bow Low gear of 5 speed floor shifter with to had same Clutch plate too and lots other vechile used even Fords plus Dodge , GMC or Chevrolet used them to! Also that wind grind noise was bearing wearing out need replaced so leaks rushing on Big Starter Ring Gear near teeth on dark brown areas and that were it is or Generator needs lube up on electrical parts too ! Plus engine needs pulley for belt cleaning up from corrosion on rust and new belt too!
Check the compression. If it’s good remove all the accessories , paint them and assemble it ( maybe remove and rebuild the heads and replace the pushrodtube seals )
The clutch is a rebuilt unit and is fine for that old Ghia! Remove the fan shroud and generator and run the engine. You can do it for a minute and it won’t harm the engine and you’ll see the leak first hand coming from the oil cooler seals! Clean reseal and paint everything and adjust the valves and put it back together!
Remember to replace your accelerator cable now that the motor is out. Easier that way. 😉 The vacuum line from the carb to the distributor is off so it won’t advance as nice when you accelerate. I told you the leak came mostly from the oil cooler seals, right? 😉 Easy fix. Do your magic now on it; get everything clean and nice as you do! Another good way to ascertain how your internals are is to measure the crank endplay and see if it is within spec.
Clutch disk looks NEW. Probably not too many miles since replacement. Notice the yellow "flywheel side" sticker. Definitely a replacement part. I would use it again in a heat beat! Fuel line...put a large nut (whatever fits snugly on the hose) on the end of the line placed in the gas can. Keeps it submerged. Clear line is great for testing. The ringing sound when cranking is normal. You just wont hear it with the engine in the car. I would suggest a leak on the oil cooler connection. And yes, by all means clean the tins, and give them a "rattle can restoration" at least!
Hi there.. on engines that old is a wise thing to check gaskets, seals and stuff like that, although the flywheel looks weird like movin in and out.. Maybe a bearing issue? Check the axial play. Good work though, but in the previous video I thought you was ready to rip out the engine.. Take care when the car is on stands! =) Keep on!
Wow, working hard :) Agreed ! Time to take the engine apart because if one gasket is gone, the rest will probably be too. Your sandblaster will make it easier to clean up all the tin parts. Love to see your videos but I hope you'll find some nice job soon.
I'm not sure why you would bench test your engine (especially on a 3 wheel engine stand) when you already know it leaks oil and your gonna tear it down anyway ... but like always it's always good to see these old cars restored instead of squished
I'm enjoying your videos, please take care with those ratchet straps best to hook the hoist through the straps and not the ratchet handle. Looks like a lot of meat left on the clutch friction disc. Best regards.
Obviously an engine that old can use a full refresh. But actually sounds VERY smooth. Other than the oil leak and "beauty" items. You can refresh/clean/paint all the tins, take care of the oil filter, and check the valves for adjustment and let it be, or go full rebuild..
Hi CT, not sure why your looking for leaks now as you have said previously your probably gonna rebuild it anyway. And before you fitted the starter bracket and the yoke for the engine stand I would have cleaned the muck off where they mount to the engine. Remember that you need proper alignment of the starter.
ouch, this is a big oil leak .... I think it will be better to open the engine and check everything. In my opinion, being a sports car it would be an opportunity to increase performance a little .... As usual, I recommend: don't give up!👍💪
GOod idea to remove valve covers and check valve train function before starting old engines, they might have dropped valve - especially #3 that get the most hot. Inspect / Peek inside spark plug holes not a bad idea either.
For sure oil cooler seals are shot. But the engine sounds really good, compression test, adjust the valves and clean everything ! Back the day I'm sure that was the cause of many VWs burning on the side of the road. And if anyone was asleep in science class Magnesium burns once hot enough and can't be put out with water.
Plan on replacing the clutch and pressure plate. They are far easier to replace than if you try the old ones and mount the engine again. Definitely should have checked for leaks at pushrod tubes.
That oil leak seems to be from the oil cooler to me.. It's easily reparaible with a couple of rubber seals if that's it. But check compression, that will tell you if you have to open the engine o not.
Hi, I am curious as to what engine yoke you’re using together with the harbor freight engine stand? Please can you send me the link to where you purchased it from… it fits the engine stand perfectly!
2 роки тому
Dear Reader, Dear Mr. CT, I've tried to find a video about the 'result' with the VW Karmann Ghia motor restoration, but couldn't find one. I've seen a video in which Mr. CT has gone to someone to restore a Porsche motor, and wherein Mr. CT makes the remark that he still needs a motor for his Ghia. So, was this motor beyond repair? And have I missed this video? By the way, I really enjoy the video's of Mr. CT. Of course he is very skilled, but also good in explaining his steps for a non-technical audience. With Kind Regards, Michel F. van den Brun The Netherlands
Cool stuff, I like the Beverly hillbilly music when you struck black gold, Texas tea! Also can you give a video of your engine hoist you have set up? Pretty cool, I’ve always liked the way you can start without it being installed in the ghia, keep rockin! I’m learning too! One more question, do you have another job besides workin on vws?
I would vacum all the loose crap off the engine so that it doesn't get sucked in or fall into the engine... before starting to take apart. Also because I rather not work in the middle of all that.. :-P
Greetings friend, you have very good content, I just opened my channel, I have two German volkswagen from 1967 and I hope to collaborate with you one day
Hope them CHINESIUM WELDS on that engine stand hold up to a running engine??? Keep your dog out and WATCH YER TOES!! When it does a WHEELIE or Flips OVER....
??? CT back too rusty stop jumping around.,I really do believe you never end the restoration of any project you get in your hands, Sorry CT- get to the point I`m losing interest..HCS
the guy started the engine again in the car, it turned, it leaks everywhere !! why start it again on the stand ?? It's no use !! everything must be reviewed on this engine !! the guy wastes time like with all these vehicles !! the dragon will be finished in at least 3 years Icône de validation par la communauté
Nice stand/rig. Great way to figure out what was up! Bring on the break down video! Its alright, nothing that VW Darrin can't get you out of!! lol
Thanks man! TRUE! =)
clutch looks pretty new
Yes Mike, it looks like brand new, there is a tag inside yet (flywheel side).
CHECK THE END PLAY...check the compression. check the oil pressure with a gauge. put one of those screw on ones on where the oil pressure sending unit screws on. then decide if you should just keep going on the engine.
👍👍
Glad to see more frequent vids, CT. Keep em coming. I do hope you eventually give this the Dragon treatment; it deserves it👍
You should look into changing your set up. There are so many things you can do to have everything work much smoother. It was frustrating watching that but, it was also fun to see a fellow VW enthusiasts. Great job over all.
I’d say that’s an arterial bleed!
Pretty much what everyone else is saying.
Oil cooler seals. Check compression. Check end play. Push rod tubes seals. Clutch and accelerator cables. Etc, etc.
nice work man.
What he said…😀😀😀
Thanks man!
@@CTmoog you don’t need us telling you anything, you pretty much know what’s going on plus you have Darrin 😎
Love how you explain everything great job as always!
Next time put a oilpan under that motor👍😎
Great Job CT!!! 👏 👏 👏 I Love ❤️ Your Vids!!! 🎸⭐️🇺🇸
Thanks so much!! =)
You big ole Florida hill jack. Keep on rocking in the free world.
New oil cooler seals, a bit of a strip down and rebuild to replace the perishable parts and damn good cleaning and she’ll be right! 👌🏻🇬🇧
Such a cool car. One of my late buddies had one just like this but he had a Porsche engine in it and added a turbo. Kept the outside bone stock. He used to laugh as he passed AMG Mercedes and Challengers, Chargers, and Mustangs. I called it the evil jellybean.
19:50 aha oil cooler leaking, probably the little rubber seal rings. Another big oil leaker is the Push Rod Tubes, oil seal on those leak frequently.
Correct. Oil cooler seals ( or the cooler itself , unlikely though)
Excellent video CT :) I say that Clutch plate from 1960 to 1980 years like one was on my late Dad farm tractor of 1963 McCormick International B414 40 hp Loader tractor Desiel motor had for Clutch Plate was Double sides one for Transmission other P.T.O. Power Take Off and be flip over too use both ways! Second was 1968 International Pick up 1300 Series 1 ton truck had 345 V8 4barrel Holley hand choke 1000 CFM with Eaton D18 Manual transmission with Bow Low gear of 5 speed floor shifter with to had same Clutch plate too and lots other vechile used even Fords plus Dodge , GMC or Chevrolet used them to! Also that wind grind noise was bearing wearing out need replaced so leaks rushing on Big Starter Ring Gear near teeth on dark brown areas and that were it is or Generator needs lube up on electrical parts too ! Plus engine needs pulley for belt cleaning up from corrosion on rust and new belt too!
Check the compression. If it’s good remove all the accessories , paint them and assemble it ( maybe remove and rebuild the heads and replace the pushrodtube seals )
The clutch is a rebuilt unit and is fine for that old Ghia! Remove the fan shroud and generator and run the engine. You can do it for a minute and it won’t harm the engine and you’ll see the leak first hand coming from the oil cooler seals! Clean reseal and paint everything and adjust the valves and put it back together!
Black gold, Texas tea!
That's it! =)
CT out in the garage😎👍🏼
Sounds like a good engine get the rebuild done and Bob's your uncle, you'll have a good driving vehicle.. 👍👏
Thanks 👍
Remember to replace your accelerator cable now that the motor is out. Easier that way. 😉
The vacuum line from the carb to the distributor is off so it won’t advance as nice when you accelerate.
I told you the leak came mostly from the oil cooler seals, right? 😉 Easy fix. Do your magic now on it; get everything clean and nice as you do!
Another good way to ascertain how your internals are is to measure the crank endplay and see if it is within spec.
Clutch disk looks NEW. Probably not too many miles since replacement. Notice the yellow "flywheel side" sticker. Definitely a replacement part. I would use it again in a heat beat!
Fuel line...put a large nut (whatever fits snugly on the hose) on the end of the line placed in the gas can. Keeps it submerged. Clear line is great for testing. The ringing sound when cranking is normal. You just wont hear it with the engine in the car.
I would suggest a leak on the oil cooler connection. And yes, by all means clean the tins, and give them a "rattle can restoration" at least!
That's the yoke, Mustie1 needs to get. 👍
Hi there.. on engines that old is a wise thing to check gaskets, seals and stuff like that, although the flywheel looks weird like movin in and out.. Maybe a bearing issue? Check the axial play. Good work though, but in the previous video I thought you was ready to rip out the engine.. Take care when the car is on stands! =) Keep on!
It's just like watching a mustie1 video..👍👍
That engine sounds like my phone ☎️ is ringing! 🤣
CT is going to start that engine on a 3 wheel engine stand......OMG this has gotta be good. I only use 4 wheel stands. those sucker tip over.
Wait a while. He’s going to disassemble it and start a new project.
A VW doing a wheelie is a cool sight to see you have to admit. Just not the way he's trying to do it. 🤣
Wow, working hard :) Agreed ! Time to take the engine apart because if one gasket is gone, the rest will probably be too. Your sandblaster will make it easier to clean up all the tin parts. Love to see your videos but I hope you'll find some nice job soon.
Good find!
Great video😃
Thanks dude! =)
Clean the garbage of it first including all the tins
I enjoy watching this video. Good job 👍
I'm not sure why you would bench test your engine (especially on a 3 wheel engine stand) when you already know it leaks oil and your gonna tear it down anyway ... but like always it's always good to see these old cars restored instead of squished
I'm enjoying your videos, please take care with those ratchet straps best to hook the hoist through the straps and not the ratchet handle. Looks like a lot of meat left on the clutch friction disc. Best regards.
Obviously an engine that old can use a full refresh. But actually sounds VERY smooth. Other than the oil leak and "beauty" items. You can refresh/clean/paint all the tins, take care of the oil filter, and check the valves for adjustment and let it be, or go full rebuild..
Wine bottle cork to plug it and your'e good. Haha, Looks like oil cooler seals hopefully?
Keep them coming vedios coming CT
14:49
Your phones Ringing !!
Party Line??
😆😂🤔
☎
Like your set up, good video.
Great video my friend thank you.
Hi CT, not sure why your looking for leaks now as you have said previously your probably gonna rebuild it anyway. And before you fitted the starter bracket and the yoke for the engine stand I would have cleaned the muck off where they mount to the engine. Remember that you need proper alignment of the starter.
It’s the seals in the oil cooler
ouch, this is a big oil leak .... I think it will be better to open the engine and check everything. In my opinion, being a sports car it would be an opportunity to increase performance a little ....
As usual, I recommend: don't give up!👍💪
GOod idea to remove valve covers and check valve train function before starting old engines, they might have dropped valve - especially #3 that get the most hot. Inspect / Peek inside spark plug holes not a bad idea either.
For sure oil cooler seals are shot. But the engine sounds really good, compression test, adjust the valves and clean everything ! Back the day I'm sure that was the cause of many VWs burning on the side of the road. And if anyone was asleep in science class Magnesium burns once hot enough and can't be put out with water.
Plan on replacing the clutch and pressure plate. They are far easier to replace than if you try the old ones and mount the engine again. Definitely should have checked for leaks at pushrod tubes.
*I got PTSD watching this*
That oil leak seems to be from the oil cooler to me.. It's easily reparaible with a couple of rubber seals if that's it. But check compression, that will tell you if you have to open the engine o not.
CT, I have the same engine starter test stand less the Zalex starter mock up. Oil cooler seals
That has one of them external self lubricators. You never have to change the oil when you have one of those. Just add as needed.
Simple chance the oil cooler and seals
engine seems to run good, but man that cooler was really leaking bad. guess all the greasy mess kept the rust at bay...maybe
Look for the oil trail that will tell you were to look
You have to get a complete gasket set
Very cool! What kind of starter setup is that? Where did you buy that?
Zalex Industries
Hi, I am curious as to what engine yoke you’re using together with the harbor freight engine stand? Please can you send me the link to where you purchased it from… it fits the engine stand perfectly!
Dear Reader, Dear Mr. CT,
I've tried to find a video about the 'result' with the VW Karmann Ghia motor restoration, but couldn't find one. I've seen a video in which Mr. CT has gone to someone to restore a Porsche motor, and wherein Mr. CT makes the remark that he still needs a motor for his Ghia. So, was this motor beyond repair? And have I missed this video?
By the way, I really enjoy the video's of Mr. CT. Of course he is very skilled, but also good in explaining his steps for a non-technical audience.
With Kind Regards,
Michel F. van den Brun
The Netherlands
Master Aranca like the Ford
Cool stuff, I like the Beverly hillbilly music when you struck black gold, Texas tea! Also can you give a video of your engine hoist you have set up? Pretty cool, I’ve always liked the way you can start without it being installed in the ghia, keep rockin! I’m learning too! One more question, do you have another job besides workin on vws?
J A C K L E G
Poor engine,need some love!
cant wait for another rusty vid!
Onring on oil cooler my best bet the dry rot
Cooler Seals
Here we go, another endless project......
That's not a leak that's an artery!
It was clear to me that the oil leak was the oil cooler seals
When shall we see the 914 project yet again?
I would vacum all the loose crap off the engine so that it doesn't get sucked in or fall into the engine... before starting to take apart. Also because I rather not work in the middle of all that.. :-P
I hope the white specks on the clutch wasn’t Asbestos.
Greetings friend, you have very good content, I just opened my channel, I have two German volkswagen from 1967 and I hope to collaborate with you one day
You're going to this much trouble it would be wise to replace the pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch disk.
Oil cooler is leaking.
🖤
O Karmann Ghia é motor Volkswagen? Parece com o do meu Fusca.
Sim, é um veículo Volkswagen.
👍
Thank you! =)
Hello
Guys first vw
Half the video on mounting to stand, you need to shorten. I kept forwarding.
Need new clutch and pressure plate
it leake !! lol belle constatation !!! il est con ou il fait expres ?
Hope them CHINESIUM WELDS on that engine stand hold up to a running engine???
Keep your dog out and WATCH YER TOES!!
When it does a WHEELIE or Flips OVER....
Those 3 wheeled stands are terrible if you're going to be running your engine on it.
Salut🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲💝💝💝
??? CT back too rusty stop jumping around.,I really do believe you never end the restoration of any project you get in your hands, Sorry CT- get to the point I`m losing interest..HCS
CT are you collecting unemployment? Enjoy the ride if you are.
the guy started the engine again in the car, it turned, it leaks everywhere !! why start it again on the stand ?? It's no use !! everything must be reviewed on this engine !! the guy wastes time like with all these vehicles !! the dragon will be finished in at least 3 years
Icône de validation par la communauté
F250 please 😅😅
Love ur vids do you have an Instagram acct?
Get back to the truck
Hemorrhage