I advise you do the dual mass flywheel at the same time while gearbox is out. The clutch friction plate often lasts longer than the flywheel. There is a dimension from Volvo for testing movement in the flywheel. I'm on my third flywheel. Ive fitted two personally. Car is at 210'000 miles now. First flywheel went at 90'000 miles. Loud banging noise. When i removed gearbox, the flywheel was now separated and i had to use a disc cutter to remove flywheel centre as the holes misalign with bolts making it impossible to remove flywheel bolts. Second flywheel went after a further 80'000 miles. This time i caught it before it failed completely. The pedal had gone harder and getting reverse was difficult. It also slipped up large hills. Both times the clutch friction plate was actually fine and still within wear limits. I replaced them anyway. The damping spring fails inside the dual mass flywheel. Usually around 80-100'000 miles of use. Thats why i would advise changing not just clutch friction plate but also dual mass flywheel. Otherwise you could be removing gearbox again prematurely. Grinding the centre out the flywheel inside the engine bay was a very messy job.. Also that mount that attaches to the catalytic converter and to the gearbox mount, the one you levered off can be unbelievably hard to get back in place over all the studs. Much harder than removing. After the first time of issue with it, the second time i removed gearbox i cut the lower hole in the mount into a slot with a grinder. The nut still manages to clamp it fine. Ive had no issues with it after 30'000 miles. A ford mechanic later told me they often did the same on Mondeo's. (Same 2.0D Engine/gearbox.) It saves a lot of cursing and messing around under the car. The rear main oil seals all leak on the V50/Ford/Peugeots and don't last long. Its actually a Ford seal with Volvo part numbers. The new seal kit comes with a plastic tool to insert the seal. Be very careful when using as the seal can end up at a slight angle and not seat properly in the block. There is a depth measurement with the seal kit. I also coated the OD of the seal in sump gasket sealer the first time then tapped the seal gently in to place. It worked and stopped it weeping oil. Ford know they can fail after only a few thousand miles but only supplied a plastic tool as a remedy to get it to a specific depth in the block. I replaced my lower torque mounting (the one that fits to the sub frame) with an uprated one as the standard ones don't last long either. The uprated one is slightly noisier over pot holes as its a hard Urethane bushing but its still holding after nearly 60'000 miles. These mounts fail and you feel heavy vibration under acceleration and even a loud clonk changing gears under hard acceleration. The cheapest mounts on EBAY are a total waste of time and the bolt can go thread bound in the mount as they also bend when the elastomeric centre bush just wears out through acceleration. I had one last only 15'000 miles before it had excess play heavy vibration and noise. Its a common issue. Easiest way to refill gearbox is with a long tube and a large syringe i found. Better to fill it after its back in car, makes gearbox a little lighter and it needs to be perfectly level. I taped the clear plastic tubing up to front wing panel at bonnet height attached syringe without plunger and just left it open to drain into gearbox. Keep Refilling up to 2 litres. The car MUST be perfectly level when filling otherwise you can overfill the gearbox and that pressure blows the diff seals apparently. Much easier using gravity than trying to squeeze a bottle horizontally in the wheel well with front strut in the way. I also recommend using Volvo gearbox oil. Cheaper stuff is not good in cold conditions. Gear changes can be difficult until the gearbox warms up with non Volvo oil. I never had this issue with correct Volvo oil. Hope this helps.
As i see you are changing engine mount. Would like to hear from you after installing new one. Will you feel the difference. As i changed all 3 as 2 of them were completely dead exepct gearbox mount. But after all been changed i feel more vibrarions than with dead ones.. still scraching my head tho
@slavicshop2398 even first time I did put clutch pack together it was easy . The hard part in mecanic is the 1/10 nasty hidden rusty bolt that did strip 😆
@slavicshop2398 I do love my 4 cylinder turbo diesel manual car . I am supposed to put it in garbage, but I am planning to rebuild it all and tuned it for performance . I already did put a huge air filter on it, and the result is stunning. I want to start getting a collection of them .
First to watch you,as always,thanks.
Thank you too!
I advise you do the dual mass flywheel at the same time while gearbox is out.
The clutch friction plate often lasts longer than the flywheel.
There is a dimension from Volvo for testing movement in the flywheel.
I'm on my third flywheel.
Ive fitted two personally.
Car is at 210'000 miles now.
First flywheel went at 90'000 miles.
Loud banging noise.
When i removed gearbox, the flywheel was now separated and i had to use a disc cutter to remove flywheel centre as the holes misalign with bolts making it impossible to remove flywheel bolts.
Second flywheel went after a further 80'000 miles.
This time i caught it before it failed completely.
The pedal had gone harder and getting reverse was difficult. It also slipped up large hills.
Both times the clutch friction plate was actually fine and still within wear limits.
I replaced them anyway.
The damping spring fails inside the dual mass flywheel. Usually around 80-100'000 miles of use.
Thats why i would advise changing not just clutch friction plate but also dual mass flywheel.
Otherwise you could be removing gearbox again prematurely.
Grinding the centre out the flywheel inside the engine bay was a very messy job..
Also that mount that attaches to the catalytic converter and to the gearbox mount, the one you levered off can be unbelievably hard to get back in place over all the studs.
Much harder than removing.
After the first time of issue with it, the second time i removed gearbox i cut the lower hole in the mount into a slot with a grinder.
The nut still manages to clamp it fine. Ive had no issues with it after 30'000 miles.
A ford mechanic later told me they often did the same on Mondeo's. (Same 2.0D Engine/gearbox.)
It saves a lot of cursing and messing around under the car.
The rear main oil seals all leak on the V50/Ford/Peugeots and don't last long. Its actually a Ford seal with Volvo part numbers.
The new seal kit comes with a plastic tool to insert the seal. Be very careful when using as the seal can end up at a slight angle and not seat properly in the block.
There is a depth measurement with the seal kit.
I also coated the OD of the seal in sump gasket sealer the first time then tapped the seal gently in to place.
It worked and stopped it weeping oil.
Ford know they can fail after only a few thousand miles but only supplied a plastic tool as a remedy to get it to a specific depth in the block.
I replaced my lower torque mounting (the one that fits to the sub frame) with an uprated one as the standard ones don't last long either.
The uprated one is slightly noisier over pot holes as its a hard Urethane bushing but its still holding after nearly 60'000 miles.
These mounts fail and you feel heavy vibration under acceleration and even a loud clonk changing gears under hard acceleration.
The cheapest mounts on EBAY are a total waste of time and the bolt can go thread bound in the mount as they also bend when the elastomeric centre bush just wears out through acceleration.
I had one last only 15'000 miles before it had excess play heavy vibration and noise.
Its a common issue.
Easiest way to refill gearbox is with a long tube and a large syringe i found.
Better to fill it after its back in car, makes gearbox a little lighter and it needs to be perfectly level.
I taped the clear plastic tubing up to front wing panel at bonnet height attached syringe without plunger and just left it open to drain into gearbox. Keep Refilling up to 2 litres.
The car MUST be perfectly level when filling otherwise you can overfill the gearbox and that pressure blows the diff seals apparently.
Much easier using gravity than trying to squeeze a bottle horizontally in the wheel well with front strut in the way.
I also recommend using Volvo gearbox oil.
Cheaper stuff is not good in cold conditions. Gear changes can be difficult until the gearbox warms up with non Volvo oil.
I never had this issue with correct Volvo oil.
Hope this helps.
Thank you for describing everything in detail it helps. I will do my best . Thank you for your time ! 👏
As i see you are changing engine mount. Would like to hear from you after installing new one. Will you feel the difference. As i changed all 3 as 2 of them were completely dead exepct gearbox mount. But after all been changed i feel more vibrarions than with dead ones.. still scraching my head tho
Sure, I will let you know !
@@foscmindscape nothing changed , the problem was from the front spring bushes. Located on the top of the spring.
You where we'll start , do the transmission yourself it's not complicated
@@olgacoupal-bergeron7633 true, only first time .
@slavicshop2398 even first time I did put clutch pack together it was easy . The hard part in mecanic is the 1/10 nasty hidden rusty bolt that did strip 😆
@@olgacoupal-bergeron7633there is always a rusty screw ori something 😂
@slavicshop2398 I do love my 4 cylinder turbo diesel manual car . I am supposed to put it in garbage, but I am planning to rebuild it all and tuned it for performance . I already did put a huge air filter on it, and the result is stunning. I want to start getting a collection of them .