Great video. It's a much longer and more expensive procedure than necessary but nonetheless the job is completed. I'm a Senior Master Tech w/40 years experience. I worked for a Volvo Dealer & 3 Independent Authorized Volvo Repair facilities. I've replaced well over 100 engines in Volvo vehicles since the 1980's. Had it been me I'd have elected to use the engine hoist and a heavy duty 30' ratchet strap. Set the steering system so the tires and steering wheel are straight. Once straight out small strap around steering wheel and then run strap toward windshield closing the strap in the door to keep steering straight for reassembly. Don't overturn the steering wheel when setting. Usually no more than 1 1/2 turns either direction or you'll break the clock spring behind the steering wheel air bag. Drain coolant & disconnect the battery. Using a floor jack raise the car and set the jack stands under body of the car on the jack stand plates located behind each of the front tires on the undercarriage on the frame rail about 3 inches past the rear right subframe bolt. (You can also use the hoist and strap secured to the engine and the hoist boom). Raise up the car and install jack stands as stated above. Set the car down onto jack stands. And remove the floor jack. Engine hoist & straps if used to raise car don't need to be removed but they do need to be repositioned later for the dropping of the subframe onto two 4' 4x4's. Remove battery cables. Drain the engine coolant (antifreeze). Remove the tires, brake calipers w/ bracket and hang on the coils of the strut . NOTE: Make sure the brake hose is removed from the steering knuckles, calipers or it's bracket DO NOT REMOVE the threaded bleeder valve or the brake hose where they're fastened to the caliper housing. There's often a brake hose fastener and bracket attached on the frame rail where it meets fenderwell. Remove it. Remove the steering knuckles and sway bar links from the strut assemblies. Remove the fan. Remove the main wiring harness for the engine so that it will come with the engine/trans and subframe assembly. Possible the computer will need to go with harness. If you have a refrigerant recovery machine you'll want to remove the freon from the AC system. Don't release any refrigerant into the air. Pay someone to recover the freon. Remove ac lines at the compressor and cap the lines and the compressor line ports. Kreme ve compressor and set lines aside and out of the way. Remove the steering wheel pinch bolt located at the driver floorboard behind and to the left of the brake pedal. And pull the steering column out of the steering rack n pinion. Reset the engine hoist at a 46-50° angle to the top of the engine and then wrap strap around the engine and don't leave slack. Remove the 4 subframe bolts and the two rear frame plate bolts. Remove the engine and transmission mounts don't worry the engine and assembly will be supported by the engine hoist. Then lower subframe engine and transmission down to the ground and let it come to rest on two car dollies set up to evenly distribute the weight to avoid a problem when splitting the engine and transmission. Then you use the engine hoist to raise the car up and then drag the subframe engine assembly our from under the car. Then remove the axle shafts from the transmission transaxle. You can leave the axle shafts bolted into the steering knuckles you simply just pry it out at the transaxle. Beware of the spill you might want to take the axles out while the car what why the assembly still in the air little bit and put a pan under it so that when you pull the axles the transmission fluid will run off into the pan and not onto your floor
I really appreciate this video from a "regular" guy, struggling away as 95% of all home mechanics do. All these other heavily edited videos make us look like idiots at times! I'm hopefully only needing to drop the sub frame to access the gearbox better but I did watch your entire video.
Helpful notes: You dont have to take the exhaust loose from the resonator its much easier to take it loose from the turbo its 3 bolts Its easier to get the driveshaft loose from the top once you lower the engine down. Its easier to take out the condenser and just refill it later. Its a black ground wire connected to the fender on the passenger side. The car will not start if that wire isnt grounded it is the ground for the ecu. Replace all the trans output shaft seals and rear main seal. They will leak eventually.
Excellent work! Thanks for your patience and effort. I have an XC60 with T6 engine and I was looking for info for replacing the engine when I found your video. Was very enlightening and intimidating as well. Thx again.
MATE! Epic Video, thankyou soo much, I am about to enter into this job myself and this has been extremely helpful - even for a 22 year Volvo truck mechanic! you rock!
Great work! Can't wait to watch you install everything back. The easy part is getting it out right? I have only removed a 1.6lt engine once (KIA) which was easier than i thought. I am nervous having to remove a much heavier/bigger Volvo engine/transmission but needs to be done. After watching you have ago i am even more nervous but im gonna have ago. Liked you added and admitted to your mistakes - helps the rest of us get it right - cheers!
I did get all back together. Though i had to move house at the time so i couldn't film it. Just this month i did D5 XC90 engine swap. I have a hoist now it's much easier.
oh yeah a hoist would be great! This has already been an epic project. I had to build the carport first. This was made from a long gazebo frame. The covers never last so I collected roof off-cuts from new housing and put that up. The Volvo just fits under so no hoist for me. This is definitely gonna be a ‘backyard job’ - fingers crossed 😂
Ok, I think that you did a great job with that xc90. I am doing one myself and I can't find where the wire connects on the driver's side clear back by the fire wall, the one with the red pull unlock tab, any chance you remember and could steer me in the right direction...
I need to replace the read gear on a 2008 3.2L I purchased a low mile assembly, the new OEM chain,guides & tensioner. plus intake and chain cover gaskets.I also orderd the crank and cam locking tool kit. I was hoping to find footage in English but haven't had any luck. I have no access to alldata or Mitchell any longer. Looking for any video or tips if possible. Thanks.
Hello , would bad VVT solenoids can cause white smoke from the exhaust ? 2004 xc90 2.9L AWD . i have a lot of white smome coming from the tailpipe non stop on idle but it would go away when i drive till i stop it woild smoke again .
@@barrabadgesAust Thanks for replying , Today i drove it little bit and the check engine lights turned off on its on and the smoke is gone then 10 mints later the check engine lights comes on and the smoke is back . let me tell you some details on what happened before this problem started it might help you to point finger on the problem . 1- the car was running fine no check engine light till i change the oil with 5w30 synthetic blend supertech brand .i dont even know if this is correct oil . 2- i didn't change the oil filter as i couldn't find wrench at the part store . 3-i over filled it with oil i out 7 quirts pluse there is oil in the filter i guess so maybe thats make it 8 quirts . 4- i drove the car for 30 minutes was driving nice till end of trip i turnd it off and start it again 30 minutes later start to smoke after check engine lights comes on . 5- i scanned the faults and there were only 2 P0011 , P0014 . Im thinking about changing the oil professionally and the filter of course and change the VVT solenoid . The car drive really nice there are no signs of any other problems car has 70k original miles . please let me know if there is any thing i need to test before i jump to the seals fix . because its sound like a lot of work . 2004 xc90 2.9L AWD . note i drain some oil out today before i test drive today i have 5 quirts in the car .
@@barrabadgesAust do think the smoke happens because i overfilled it and still some oil siting in the compensation champer or because i missed up the vvt and its doing something to make oil go to the comenstion champer . in another word is the VVT has any role of that i dont understand the vvt solenoid principal .
just on that spill, have you looked into painting the floor? Ive worked on a painted garage floor once and liquid just stayed ontop ready to be wiped off.I got quoted $150 of paint materials epoxy stuff. I rent and have no garage so it isnt an option for me anymore.
Thank you so much..nice video will watch again and again... My Volvo dipstick for transmission was difficult to locate.. even after locating the dip stick was broken...any advice the liters and the length of dipstick
looking to buy a 2005 xc90 but it has a sunroof as I am tall don't like or won't a sunroof . Do you know how to remove the whole roof on the XC90 cheers
Great video, thanks so much. I have a V-8 Car, I hope I don't have to do this, lol. Your blue connector at 18:00 is probably for the speed-variable power steering assist solenoid. I know that on the Aisin TF80sc transmission (attached to all V-8 cars), some of the issues with transmission shifting (similar to what you described) is due to a faulty Valve body. interested to see what you find with this car.
There is alot of things on engine that is not the same.but you can do it... Iknow.im working with volvo in sweden and also swapped engines in those cars alot./best regards Magnus-sweden
The “gear selector”… mine isn’t attached and I’m looking how to replace it or fix it… is that what that part is called or is there another name for it? @20:19
Doing an engine swap right now (Ford) and learning about the differences in ECU management in different models. I think you'll have a headache with the electrical side. But I really have no experience with an XC90 swap.
G'day I was just wondering if anyone has ever had to change the head or the entire engine block or has had to replace it on a Volvo XC90 2005 2.4D 185KW
That was great suff mate. Thank You. I am trying to decide wether or not to buy a 2005 XC90 T6. Has cooked engine. Having 2 S80T6"s already which I have replace heads on, I know how you feel. It does get tough. In your opinion, is the 2005 XC90T6 worth spending money on? Cheers.Nick
Not sure if you still keep up with this UA-cam account but I may as well ask anyways. I just bought a 2007 xc90 with a blow head gasket with intentions to replace the head gasket myself and have a nice running car. You seem quite knowledgeable with these cars so is there anything specific I should look out for while doing a head job? Such as difficult things to remove (I’ve heard headers and turbos get in the way) or hidden bolts I must remove as to not damage anything on removal? Thanks!
Still here, just setting up a new workshop. I've never done a head gasket on a T6 Volvo. I'd imagine it could be done with the engine in the car, but I'm sure it will be tricky. Good luck with it.
Not sure why anyone would do all this work for a Volvo. You probably could have bought a good one for less than you will have in this one. No one wants them around here and they sell dirt cheap. Plus the transmissions are questionable at best. Best of luck with it. You’re a glutton for punishment.
haha, yes I am a glutton for punishment. They are dirt cheap because of the transmission issues. This is my service the community, showing the headache of a XC90 trans repair.
volvo es un auto insuperable pero eso de atravesar el motor terminó con la mecánica multiplicaron las piezas y el trabajo por más del 400 por 100 un verdadero desastre técnico una pura porqueriza no tiene comparación Volvo tan buen carro este automóvil debió ser el sustituto del BMW y mercedes total por cambiar su motor un retroceso total que lastima no tuvieron consideración con su fama del Volvo por eso cuando este auto tiene 5 años de uso pierde de inmediato su valor al igual que dodge chevrolet ford y Mazda la cuarta basura volvo no se quedo atrás lamentable por volvo,,
más porqueriza no se puede agregar a un auto en el motor tan buen carro el volvo y el error que cometieron su fabricantes atravesando el motor lo que no siguieron mercedes Benz bmw land rover y otros autos de fama internacional
Great video. It's a much longer and more expensive procedure than necessary but nonetheless the job is completed.
I'm a Senior Master Tech w/40 years experience. I worked for a Volvo Dealer & 3 Independent Authorized Volvo Repair facilities. I've replaced well over 100 engines in Volvo vehicles since the 1980's.
Had it been me I'd have elected to use the engine hoist and a heavy duty 30' ratchet strap.
Set the steering system so the tires and steering wheel are straight. Once straight out small strap around steering wheel and then run strap toward windshield closing the strap in the door to keep steering straight for reassembly. Don't overturn the steering wheel when setting. Usually no more than 1 1/2 turns either direction or you'll break the clock spring behind the steering wheel air bag.
Drain coolant & disconnect the battery.
Using a floor jack raise the car and set the jack stands under body of the car on the jack stand plates located behind each of the front tires on the undercarriage on the frame rail about 3 inches past the rear right subframe bolt. (You can also use the hoist and strap secured to the engine and the hoist boom).
Raise up the car and install jack stands as stated above.
Set the car down onto jack stands. And remove the floor jack. Engine hoist & straps if used to raise car don't need to be removed but they do need to be repositioned later for the dropping of the subframe onto two 4' 4x4's.
Remove battery cables. Drain the engine coolant (antifreeze).
Remove the tires, brake calipers w/ bracket and hang on the coils of the strut .
NOTE:
Make sure the brake hose is removed from the steering knuckles, calipers or it's bracket DO NOT REMOVE the threaded bleeder valve or the brake hose where they're fastened to the caliper housing. There's often a brake hose fastener and bracket attached on the frame rail where it meets fenderwell. Remove it.
Remove the steering knuckles and sway bar links from the strut assemblies.
Remove the fan.
Remove the main wiring harness for the engine so that it will come with the engine/trans and subframe assembly. Possible the computer will need to go with harness.
If you have a refrigerant recovery machine you'll want to remove the freon from the AC system. Don't release any refrigerant into the air. Pay someone to recover the freon.
Remove ac lines at the compressor and cap the lines and the compressor line ports. Kreme ve compressor and set lines aside and out of the way.
Remove the steering wheel pinch bolt located at the driver floorboard behind and to the left of the brake pedal. And pull the steering column out of the steering rack n pinion.
Reset the engine hoist at a 46-50° angle to the top of the engine and then wrap strap around the engine and don't leave slack. Remove the 4 subframe bolts and the two rear frame plate bolts.
Remove the engine and transmission mounts don't worry the engine and assembly will be supported by the engine hoist. Then lower subframe engine and transmission down to the ground and let it come to rest on two car dollies set up to evenly distribute the weight to avoid a problem when splitting the engine and transmission.
Then you use the engine hoist to raise the car up and then drag the subframe engine assembly our from under the car.
Then remove the axle shafts from the transmission transaxle. You can leave the axle shafts bolted into the steering knuckles you simply just pry it out at the transaxle. Beware of the spill you might want to take the axles out while the car what why the assembly still in the air little bit and put a pan under it so that when you pull the axles the transmission fluid will run off into the pan and not onto your floor
I really appreciate this video from a "regular" guy, struggling away as 95% of all home mechanics do. All these other heavily edited videos make us look like idiots at times! I'm hopefully only needing to drop the sub frame to access the gearbox better but I did watch your entire video.
Gladed you liked it. I hope you get yours back on the road soon.
This makes turning a wrench on the XC90 more accessible. Thank you!!
Helpful notes:
You dont have to take the exhaust loose from the resonator its much easier to take it loose from the turbo its 3 bolts
Its easier to get the driveshaft loose from the top once you lower the engine down.
Its easier to take out the condenser and just refill it later.
Its a black ground wire connected to the fender on the passenger side. The car will not start if that wire isnt grounded it is the ground for the ecu.
Replace all the trans output shaft seals and rear main seal. They will leak eventually.
Excellent work! Thanks for your patience and effort. I have an XC60 with T6 engine and I was looking for info for replacing the engine when I found your video. Was very enlightening and intimidating as well. Thx again.
I'm happy it was of help. Good luck with your replacement.
MATE! Epic Video, thankyou soo much, I am about to enter into this job myself and this has been extremely helpful - even for a 22 year Volvo truck mechanic! you rock!
Great to hear it helped a real mechanic!
I really appreciate this video. I have a 2005 XC90 V8 and I just cannot find many XC90 DIY videos.
I really should do more. I'm doing the front suspension soon. I'll film it.
Must be a reliable car with little going wrong hence few DIY videos
Great work! Can't wait to watch you install everything back. The easy part is getting it out right? I have only removed a 1.6lt engine once (KIA) which was easier than i thought. I am nervous having to remove a much heavier/bigger Volvo engine/transmission but needs to be done. After watching you have ago i am even more nervous but im gonna have ago. Liked you added and admitted to your mistakes - helps the rest of us get it right - cheers!
I did get all back together. Though i had to move house at the time so i couldn't film it. Just this month i did D5 XC90 engine swap. I have a hoist now it's much easier.
oh yeah a hoist would be great! This has already been an epic project. I had to build the carport first. This was made from a long gazebo frame. The covers never last so I collected roof off-cuts from new housing and put that up. The Volvo just fits under so no hoist for me. This is definitely gonna be a ‘backyard job’ - fingers crossed 😂
Great Video 👍 Thank you for All your Hard Work and Information.
that is one crazy project!
now I know why the singer lady in a band Im in told me its $9000 to R and R Trans in a 2005 Volvo with a new one in San Jose CA ??
Hilarious i love that you didnt edit the problems you had
Glad you liked it. Hopefully you can avoid the problems I had.
I bought my 2004 xc90 for $400 rebuilt the motor and trans cause it was leaking everything. Its probably the easiest motor to remove
How you do it this looks very labor-intensive?
I will send you pictures whats your email
@@charlesjohnson756 send me pics express8@hotmail.com
Thanks
volvo engineers really HATE mechanics. What a job.
My 2005 volvo xc90 v8 the ecm isn't where you're is and could you please tell me where the crankshaft sensor is
Ok, I think that you did a great job with that xc90. I am doing one myself and I can't find where the wire connects on the driver's side clear back by the fire wall, the one with the red pull unlock tab, any chance you remember and could steer me in the right direction...
Great video! Do you have the one of how to remove the transmission pls?
You are a brave guy, a bleeding fingers, is always a good sign for motivation 😂
I need to replace the read gear on a 2008 3.2L I purchased a low mile assembly, the new OEM chain,guides & tensioner. plus intake and chain cover gaskets.I also orderd the crank and cam locking tool kit. I was hoping to find footage in English but haven't had any luck. I have no access to alldata or Mitchell any longer. Looking for any video or tips if possible. Thanks.
Thanks for replying. My issue is the interior headlining drops 3inches to accommodates the sunroof. Looking to buy a xc90 currently
I'm 6 '3 and don't have head room issues with the seat set low. Have you adjusted the seat fully?
@@barrabadgesAust
Not sure if I mentioned I'm looking to purchase the car it also has a turbo issue
@@stevenmarvo2620 Turbos are cheap enough. They are difficult to reach, Rocking the engine forward they can be replaced.
great job on the video.I am already wondering how you would get all this back together again.
It's a challenge! A couple of special alignment tools are needed to assemble the transmission internals.
Hello , would bad VVT solenoids can cause white smoke from the exhaust ? 2004 xc90 2.9L AWD . i have a lot of white smome coming from the tailpipe non stop on idle but it would go away when i drive till i stop it woild smoke again .
I would only be guessing. Sounds like worn valve stem seals.
@@barrabadgesAust Thanks for replying , Today i drove it little bit and the check engine lights turned off on its on and the smoke is gone then 10 mints later the check engine lights comes on and the smoke is back . let me tell you some details on what happened before this problem started it might help you to point finger on the problem .
1- the car was running fine no check engine light till i change the oil with 5w30 synthetic blend supertech brand .i dont even know if this is correct oil .
2- i didn't change the oil filter as i couldn't find wrench at the part store .
3-i over filled it with oil i out 7 quirts pluse there is oil in the filter i guess so maybe thats make it 8 quirts .
4- i drove the car for 30 minutes was driving nice till end of trip i turnd it off and start it again 30 minutes later start to smoke after check engine lights comes on .
5- i scanned the faults and there were only 2 P0011 , P0014 .
Im thinking about changing the oil professionally and the filter of course and change the VVT solenoid .
The car drive really nice there are no signs of any other problems car has 70k original miles .
please let me know if there is any thing i need to test before i jump to the seals fix .
because its sound like a lot of work . 2004 xc90 2.9L AWD . note i drain some oil out today before i test drive today i have 5 quirts in the car .
@@EARTHKEENING Those codes appear to be associated with cam shaft timing. you are probably right, VVT might be playing up.
@@barrabadgesAust do think the smoke happens because i overfilled it and still some oil siting in the compensation champer or because i missed up the vvt and its doing something to make oil go to the comenstion champer . in another word is the VVT has any role of that i dont understand the vvt solenoid principal .
oh what a horrible spill but good work
Thank you. Subscribed!
Get video! Can the transmission be removed without taking the engine out?
Not really, though you can do some Trans repairs while in the car.
just on that spill, have you looked into painting the floor? Ive worked on a painted garage floor once and liquid just stayed ontop ready to be wiped off.I got quoted $150 of paint materials epoxy stuff. I rent and have no garage so it isnt an option for me anymore.
That spll was at my previous rental. When I make my own garage epoxy will be the way to go.
Thank you so much..nice video will watch again and again...
My Volvo dipstick for transmission was difficult to locate.. even after locating the dip stick was broken...any advice the liters and the length of dipstick
The trans Dip stick is 655mm from the top cap ring to tip. From memory the trans uses over 6 litres.
My engine is the T5 engine whenI checked and it's dipstick is kind of in front under some water hose ...might not be that long
xc90 lo mejor de volvo
looking to buy a 2005 xc90 but it has a sunroof as I am tall don't like or won't a sunroof . Do you know how to remove the whole roof on the XC90 cheers
I wouldn't remove it. That would be a huge job. Just cover it with something.
Did you take both axles out of the transmission ? And did you drain the transmission oil to take the engine off? Thanks in advance
Drop the oil pan, drain the oil. and remove both shafts.
@@barrabadgesAust thank you
is the XC90 D5 2006 using a different trany TF-80sc?
This video is the notorious bad GM 4T60-E transmission
Great video, thanks so much. I have a V-8 Car, I hope I don't have to do this, lol.
Your blue connector at 18:00 is probably for the speed-variable power steering assist solenoid.
I know that on the Aisin TF80sc transmission (attached to all V-8 cars), some of the issues with transmission shifting (similar to what you described) is due to a faulty Valve body. interested to see what you find with this car.
Would you know if a 2006 xc90 motor will go into a 2004 xc90
These transmissions have a large variety of channel plate/valve bodies options that could differ between models.
There is alot of things on engine that is not the same.but you can do it...
Iknow.im working with volvo in sweden and also swapped engines in those cars alot./best regards Magnus-sweden
Thank you great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The “gear selector”… mine isn’t attached and I’m looking how to replace it or fix it… is that what that part is called or is there another name for it? @20:19
Honestly, I'm not sure of its technical name. Might have to find a parts manual to get the right part number.
Do you think if a model of xc90 from 2005 185hp will be good to swap the engine with another xc90 from 2006 163hp?
Doing an engine swap right now (Ford) and learning about the differences in ECU management in different models. I think you'll have a headache with the electrical side. But I really have no experience with an XC90 swap.
@@barrabadgesAust thanks
are all cars this complicated or is volvo 2003 just an unnecessarily complicated thing
G'day
I was just wondering if anyone has ever had to change the head or the entire engine block or has had to replace it on a Volvo XC90 2005 2.4D 185KW
Would you know if anyone has swapped the 4 speed auto for the newer 6 speed Aisin?
I bought 2003 XC90 for $200 a day ago and now I’m thinking to junk it where I’ll possibly get around $600-700
I had to buy a rear door that cost be $300! (I backed my truck into my xc90). You'll do well out of $200.
That was great suff mate. Thank You. I am trying to decide wether or not to buy a 2005 XC90 T6. Has cooked engine.
Having 2 S80T6"s already which I have replace heads on, I know how you feel. It does get tough.
In your opinion, is the 2005 XC90T6 worth spending money on? Cheers.Nick
Great job, would have taken me 7 months and my marriage to accomplish this
haha, me too, but the wife got a running xc90 out of my work.
😂😂😂 same here🙋🏻♂️
Not sure if you still keep up with this UA-cam account but I may as well ask anyways. I just bought a 2007 xc90 with a blow head gasket with intentions to replace the head gasket myself and have a nice running car. You seem quite knowledgeable with these cars so is there anything specific I should look out for while doing a head job? Such as difficult things to remove (I’ve heard headers and turbos get in the way) or hidden bolts I must remove as to not damage anything on removal? Thanks!
Still here, just setting up a new workshop. I've never done a head gasket on a T6 Volvo. I'd imagine it could be done with the engine in the car, but I'm sure it will be tricky. Good luck with it.
@22:00 spill moment got me laughing
My wife makes fun of the sound I make.
I like it cool
My V8 looks different from yours supposed to be the same
Did you fix it up?
My landlord needed to sell up so lost my garage!. Moving next week. Will get back onto it at the new place.
Not sure why anyone would do all this work for a Volvo. You probably could have bought a good one for less than you will have in this one. No one wants them around here and they sell dirt cheap. Plus the transmissions are questionable at best. Best of luck with it. You’re a glutton for punishment.
haha, yes I am a glutton for punishment. They are dirt cheap because of the transmission issues. This is my service the community, showing the headache of a XC90 trans repair.
volvo es un auto insuperable pero eso de atravesar el motor terminó con la mecánica multiplicaron las piezas y el trabajo por más del 400 por 100 un verdadero desastre técnico una pura porqueriza no tiene comparación Volvo tan buen carro este automóvil debió ser el sustituto del BMW y mercedes total por cambiar su motor un retroceso total que lastima no tuvieron consideración con su fama del Volvo por eso cuando este auto tiene 5 años de uso pierde de inmediato su valor al igual que dodge chevrolet ford y Mazda la cuarta basura volvo no se quedo atrás lamentable por volvo,,
Que buen comentario amigo
más porqueriza no se puede agregar a un auto en el motor tan buen carro el volvo y el error que cometieron su fabricantes atravesando el motor lo que no siguieron mercedes Benz bmw land rover y otros autos de fama internacional
22:01🤭🤭🤭