Those large plastic gears can last forever if properly sized. We have candy wrapping machines that are 30 years old and run almost 24/7 and the plastic gears are all original still.
Why not mount them properly? We've been using them for many years now and there are ways to mount them. I even know that from my own house before I got a proper connection, you don't just let them stay there and hope for the best.
What I started doing on those boards, instead of putting the 24v hot and common on the thermostat wire terminals, I put spades on them and used the spade connections in the middle of the board that say 24v and common. That way I only have one set of wires being tightened down on the terminal board. And those Carrier ultra low nox are notorious for having that "fluttering" sound. Like you did have to play with gas pressure or they also sell a separate baffle kit. It is a big issue with that equipment.
Finally got around to finishing this video. Those Carrier Ecoblue units are weird, and those ultra low-nox gas furnaces are even weirder. Very finicky and altitude sensitive.
Why was the curb adapter so offset? Is it so the output and return are lined up vertically with the curb? Because there looked like two outputs there...
I know exactly where this is, just up the street from my dad’s house. I was just at that shopping center yesterday afternoon too. Small world! I’m only 3 minutes into the video, will finish watching after work.
awesome video with a great camera angle/point of view showing "the set" 3:00 while reveling the hand signals to the crane operator that are universal . . . mic-drop #respect from Arizona
Have a york at a restaurant that has jacked up the control board 2 times in 10 months. Unit is only 3 years old. And installing contractor did not register it so it dosen't even have the 5year on the compressor. Over 2 hours on phone programming the board. In the heat. Dont like york either.
The way I understand economizers, codes now have the dry bulbs set so high because of efficiency AND they are assuming you are connecting 2 stage stats (regardless if the mechanical cooling only is 1 stage). Stage 1 will just run economizer but stage 2 will turn on mechanical cooling with economizer still full open. Theory is 73deg OA is cheaper than 75deg return air to cool. And if it can’t keep up then it turns on compressor. This will not work though unless you have a Y2 input I think.
Estupendo trabajo el tuyo y de tu equipo, mis más sinceras felicitaciones para todos ustedes son trabajos para sentirse orgullosos. Gracias Chris por darme la oportunidad de aprender. Saludos a todos desde Coacalco Edo de México.
Looking at the conduit, really nice work. I also was surprised as the wiring in the unit looked quite tidy and bundled up this time, not the rats nest we could enjoy in your videos as it comes from the factory way more often than I like. Still not up to how I would set up the electrical panel myself, but yeah, I guess here it comes down to some balance betwen cost and clean/maintainable wiring. And I get it, doing it absolutely neat and tidy with all technical and material means available, they add some cost for sure. But at least we got it tidy and not running across things, keeping everything accesible here, which in reality is all we ask for. Tip when you put silicone on stuff for sealing up on outside installations. As long as you don´t need to make everything "airtight" (within reason), which the gaskets should take care of, keep the underside open at some point, so possible moisture can get out again, especially should the silicone on the top fail.
Why not spin the unit 180 so power can be closer to the disconnect? And why not use a simple pvc drain instead of copper? Are codes different in Arizona?
Curious how you seal up the holes made for testing static? Been trying to find the best was to get the static readings and this seems like it. But how shall I seal the holes?
8:29 A little sticker from the manufacturer with the phases could have helped the installer, costs a few cents. THIS is one of the parts where standardization makes work a little bit more easy. In Europe, it is basically fixed set by regulation to following colours: L1 = brown, L2=black, L3=grey, Neutral=blue, PE=green/yellow. Laymen and unprofessional workers tend to mix this up sometimes, and of course there are older installations with different colours, but for at least 20 years this is fixed and makes working rather easy. Older colour codes were L1=black(not set up by regulations, but mostly the conductor between "heaven and earth"(blue and green/yellow)), L2=brown, L3=black, N=blue, PE=green/yellow. Or in the 1960s black,grey,red,blue(L1,PE+N,L2,L3). Red was L3, but could be protective earth in single phase circuits or switched conduit also! This was dangerous, so they came up with two-coloured wires for protective earth ONLY, absolutely ONLY and NEVER for something else, so even colourblind people could distinguish the wires.
Yeah you are right, there used to be all black phase cables. Or for single phase standard colors have been black blue yeelow/green, which makes many people assume black is the first phase. In reality both black or brown would have been appropriate colors for those cables all the time. Back in the times of all black 3phase or 5 wire cables i remember the better ones at least having number 1, 2, 3 stamped on the black wires.
it may be worth your while to buy and keep stocked 1/2"(maybe 3/4") nipple sets/organizers for the gas line and get fittings in bulk bags(much cheaper in the long run). instead of playing around threading/cutting on the roofs, it should all be done down at the truck/van, because those metal chips can puncture the roofing membrane if stepped on or something gets set on top of them. yeah, it doesn't look as professional with a bunch of couplings and nipples, but threading isn't fun and press tools are too expensive unless you use them daily.
Clear silicone is not an outdoor silicone. It has no UV inhibitors nor is it made to last. Clear is for shower enclosures , fishtanks and glass furniture. Probably out of warranty before it fails, but its use is limited. And Carrier is garbage anymore. Galvanized bases failing, rusting out, Noisy LG compressors in some units, Causing reverberating noise in metal fastenings.
lol at waiting for conduit benders, then cannot do offsets. they can be a real pain in the rear, especially if it needs multiple offsets and bends in a shirt area. until middle of last year, I hardly bent but a few sticks in 25+ years, boy was I rusty and forgot how 180lbs could barely bend 3/4" EMT, then I recalled how much fun it was(yeah nope) when I only weighed 145lbs. it was so long ago I forgot how to do or measure for offsets, internet search to the rescue! I also never bothered to buy benders until last year(lol)
Mega press is a huge time and money saver for me. We do generators, so a lot of gas stuff. I went with the M18 mega press but the M12 press does work for up to 1”. I now only carry up to 12” nipples and just cut and press it for over a foot. The fittings are expensive but you save on the pipe when buying 21’ sticks. Also saves tons of time over threading
I really like the way this video is put together, Chris. There is a lot packed into just over 30 minutes. I liked the way the camera was positioned when the lifting operation were taking place in that it was possible to see both Chris's hand signals to the crane operator and what actually happened. It may be simple to some people but some of us have never worked with a crane before and seeing it in practice helps. There was also enough in this video to provide some insight into these new units and their operation. Thank you.
Good job Chris, I think a Milwaukee or Rigid portable threader would be a better choice than a propress for gas lines, you would get more use out of it and it would be cheaper.
Look into the Milwaukee M18 threader. Very portable and easy to use. Get a rigid vice and you are good to go. I prefer threaded fittings for gas personally.
Is that the proper location for checking static? As for the temperature setting on the economizer, if you utilize the zip code it will auto populate the set points based on the government's efficiency numbers. Those almost never work for comfort. Carrier does not do any true R&D for field serviceability!!!!!!! They probably cross threaded it at the factory because of the stupid location of it. My dist is no longer doing Jade stuff, either. I wonder if it is due to the new energy savings rules/specs(Title 24?). Those economizers have a "SAVED SET UP" that you can simply upload to each one you do. You don't have to program them individually on every one, like the Jade.
Intresting how every ac unit has an duct unit that controls the unit. In australia with duct units that will connect to the fire control panel and there will also be a relay that is controled by the fire control panel for shutting down the ac. Some brigades also want to have control over the ac at the fire control panel
As always I've learnt many good things from this install. I love how neat your gas and conduit is. Setting the airflow was helpful to see. Taking the door off to burn out the smell was genius. And so much more! Thank you!!
I’ve had to do both but MTI manufacturing can usually match them up with models and serials. If you have a good rep at the supply house he’ll just take care of it for you - at least my guy at Carrier does
I took the measurements from the side discharge return supply you are one of the best owners in this hvac field I enjoy every video you post excellent work @@hvacmisadventures
Changing over from those old, smaller capacity Yorks always seems to come with a huge curb offset. Just did one of those Yorks to a Trane Precedent and the offset was kinda wild looking too. It did end up rocking on me slightly and I felt like a hack doing it (funny enough this was probably the total opposite of hack though) and after lifting the unit back up to check existing curb and that there were no obstructions, I drilled 2-3 holes down each side and used some large lag screws and sent them into the curb. It’s holding strong now
Thats one of those Low NOx burners isn't it....i remember everywhere except where im from in San Diego had to use Low NOx crap. My buddies up in Murrieta and Temecula have to use those. Its just a guess....never seen one before...haven't lived in CA in 6 years now.
24:04 - I see you have Piston set as your metering device. Won’t that skew MeasureQuick’s diagnostics? 26:04 - The math is easy when you use 30 degree bends: double the distance of your offset needed to get the distance between the opposite bends. Also, you are using the correct term: LB - for ell back. They also make an ell left (LL) and ell right (LR) depending on the orientation you need; but, we’ve never made the distinction and just call them all LBs no matter the orientation. I like using LBs because they’re easier to pull through than a 90 or a saddle.
One problem I noticed with your smoke wiring. Power supply for smoke can not come off the tstat thermals. Pull 24v off of the transformer. When the smoke trips you will loose 24v at the tstat terminals causing smoke to operate incorrectly and you will fail your inspection .Ask me how I know....
Those ultra low nox units are strange looking. When setting the fan speed on ecoblue units, you need to be running high speed fan. G and Y1 are low speed, W and Y2 are high speed and the taps you put the meter leads in show the speed signal for high speed fan no matter what it’s actually running at. So if you give it a call for G, your static will be low speed reading but your vdc is for high speed.
Great install! I enjoy your knowledgeable videos. Wish our company operated like this lol Mega press is awesome. You mentioned 12v in the video. I think that’s only pro press. Mega would likely be 18v. We also have the battery operated threader. As some one who likes to thread their gas lines I find myself using the press more often though. They have their pros and cons but for this install as an example, the press would have it done in less than an hour. Threader still has all of the set up with oil and stand. Where as you can bring one hand held tool onto the roof with the appropriate size head.
Chris, nice install. Do you use HTSG on the rubbers of the smoke detectors' outside cover? or leave them dry as they are? Do they allow you to do that for extra weather intrusion protection?
If you are new here, this video is brought to you by sporlan, and if you’re old enough you’ll also know some videos are brought to you by PBS, the public broadcasting station. I feel the same nostalgia every time Chris posts his videos with that intro 😂
This low nox units the gas pressure sweet spot seems to be 2.8 on package units. We’ve been dealing with them the past 2-3 years here in central California. If the gas pressure is off it’ll make weird jet noises and overheat
Is that the low-nox type burner? I’ve put dozens of ecoblue units in recently in NC and they still have the normal looking burner section. I’ve never seen that one before - thought it was modulating at first until he started talking about it
Beautiful install! Everything documented at startup for reference in the future. Working as intended. A portable threader would simplify your gas piping and you wouldn’t have to rely on someone else cutting and threading per your instructions
Tri stand, ridgid hand threader, spray lube for occasional use does it for me. Only take a few minutes to cut and thread. Fairly low cost. Dies may be the same on power threader if you wanted to upgrade later.
Yorks are a pain and not only that, we also seen a lot of failures with them and leaks on the microchannel coils. We like Trane and Carrier here in SFL.
you can usually use a regular 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" extension "backwards" to remove the square head pipe plugs on the manifolds/valves. that gets you out away from the tight areas, then just use your regular wrenches on the other end. if that fails 12-point sockets will work too. 🥸
please guys, give that operator and his supervising buddy a big salut. excellent positioning. nice teamwork.
Jeez those economizer boards are just ridiculous. I have had really good luck with the Belimo ones.
Yeah pure junk
Belimo are the catsass
Carrier go back yo the Jade!
12:08 "what should we make the gears out of?" "the cheapest plastic you can find."
Those large plastic gears can last forever if properly sized. We have candy wrapping machines that are 30 years old and run almost 24/7 and the plastic gears are all original still.
you guys bump into my satellite dishes and keep me in business lmaoo
We are very careful around the satellite dishes, but I do have to remind my techs not to take cinder blocks from the active dishes…
@@HVACRVIDEOS I wish all companies were as good as yours!
Why not mount them properly? We've been using them for many years now and there are ways to mount them. I even know that from my own house before I got a proper connection, you don't just let them stay there and hope for the best.
@@Bjurran they don't drill/mount them on commercial/flat roofs, so they don't have the liability for causing roof leaks.
What I started doing on those boards, instead of putting the 24v hot and common on the thermostat wire terminals, I put spades on them and used the spade connections in the middle of the board that say 24v and common. That way I only have one set of wires being tightened down on the terminal board. And those Carrier ultra low nox are notorious for having that "fluttering" sound. Like you did have to play with gas pressure or they also sell a separate baffle kit. It is a big issue with that equipment.
That is a crazy curb adapter. 2:00 it really looks like it shifts to the right and back.
I bet it is so flexible, it swallos any possible virbation from the unit. It looks somewhere between ridiculous and scary.
Finally got around to finishing this video. Those Carrier Ecoblue units are weird, and those ultra low-nox gas furnaces are even weirder. Very finicky and altitude sensitive.
Why was the curb adapter so offset? Is it so the output and return are lined up vertically with the curb? Because there looked like two outputs there...
What a horrible location for the economizer module.
I know exactly where this is, just up the street from my dad’s house. I was just at that shopping center yesterday afternoon too. Small world! I’m only 3 minutes into the video, will finish watching after work.
Siemens and belimo always have actuators backwards. And yes they are way more complicated compared to jade.
Also our plumbing side is always doing mega press. So fast. But in your case a portable threader is probably more useful
Trane rtu has a red and green led light for phase ,,simple if you see green led your good..red led, swap wires
Those boxes are LR. Hold it like a gun and where the access panel is is what it is. LB - on the top, LR - on the right, LL - on the left.
awesome video with a great camera angle/point of view showing "the set" 3:00 while reveling the hand signals to the crane operator that are universal . . . mic-drop #respect from Arizona
Thanks so much for the nice words!
That’s a Monstrosity of a curb adapter.
Why not a heatpump?
28:37 Siemens... The answer is Siemens. Built by engineers, for engineers, and as complex and frustrating as possible.
Hi everyone, An LB has the exit hub on the back, LR has exit hub on the right, LL has the exit hub on the left, hope this helps .
Have a york at a restaurant that has jacked up the control board 2 times in 10 months. Unit is only 3 years old. And installing contractor did not register it so it dosen't even have the 5year on the compressor. Over 2 hours on phone programming the board. In the heat. Dont like york either.
This is the last ever video of the HVACR videos videos with the old, original Parker-Sporlan intro
Carrier feels the need to compete with Lennox in ridiculousness...
Ultra low nox=guaranteed problems. Heat pumps are better especially in warm climates
Try the app quick bend for conduit bending, its simple and easy to use.
Trane defaults to having a phase monitor….carrier get your crap together. Its cheap insurance
Are the two guys setting rookies? The barking stupid commands sure treats them like it.
Are you guys not allowed to press the drains? Or you just like to solder them?
Why would the not use the new hex heed stems on the gas valve! Be better WR and Carrier.
nice and ``gut`` you try german ? nice :D
14:23 DRIP LEG........ so let's recap.......it's a SHEAVE and a DRIP LEG 😂
Sediment trap and a pulley……
That’s the ugliest curb adapter I have seen lol.
Just tall enough to make filter changes a pain.
The way I understand economizers, codes now have the dry bulbs set so high because of efficiency AND they are assuming you are connecting 2 stage stats (regardless if the mechanical cooling only is 1 stage). Stage 1 will just run economizer but stage 2 will turn on mechanical cooling with economizer still full open. Theory is 73deg OA is cheaper than 75deg return air to cool. And if it can’t keep up then it turns on compressor. This will not work though unless you have a Y2 input I think.
Estupendo trabajo el tuyo y de tu equipo, mis más sinceras felicitaciones para todos ustedes son trabajos para sentirse orgullosos.
Gracias Chris por darme la oportunidad de aprender. Saludos a todos desde Coacalco Edo de México.
Looking at the conduit, really nice work. I also was surprised as the wiring in the unit looked quite tidy and bundled up this time, not the rats nest we could enjoy in your videos as it comes from the factory way more often than I like. Still not up to how I would set up the electrical panel myself, but yeah, I guess here it comes down to some balance betwen cost and clean/maintainable wiring. And I get it, doing it absolutely neat and tidy with all technical and material means available, they add some cost for sure. But at least we got it tidy and not running across things, keeping everything accesible here, which in reality is all we ask for.
Tip when you put silicone on stuff for sealing up on outside installations. As long as you don´t need to make everything "airtight" (within reason), which the gaskets should take care of, keep the underside open at some point, so possible moisture can get out again, especially should the silicone on the top fail.
Why in the world is that unit so offset on the curb?
Why the offset??
Professional, carrier should be sponsoring these videos on top of the other sponsers
You know you start growing up when this thing starts looking like a beauty. Loved the install video.
26:19 - You were right the first time: it’s call an LB in the trade. I like using LBs because they are easier to pull through than a saddle.
Why not spin the unit 180 so power can be closer to the disconnect? And why not use a simple pvc drain instead of copper? Are codes different in Arizona?
Thats a valid question, I will try and touch on that during my Monday night live stream
is it York unit was named after yikes?
Curious how you seal up the holes made for testing static? Been trying to find the best was to get the static readings and this seems like it. But how shall I seal the holes?
They make little plugs that snap in the holes
Nice when you have 3 phase power
8:29 A little sticker from the manufacturer with the phases could have helped the installer, costs a few cents.
THIS is one of the parts where standardization makes work a little bit more easy.
In Europe, it is basically fixed set by regulation to following colours: L1 = brown, L2=black, L3=grey, Neutral=blue, PE=green/yellow.
Laymen and unprofessional workers tend to mix this up sometimes, and of course there are older installations with different colours, but for at least 20 years this is fixed and makes working rather easy.
Older colour codes were L1=black(not set up by regulations, but mostly the conductor between "heaven and earth"(blue and green/yellow)), L2=brown, L3=black, N=blue, PE=green/yellow.
Or in the 1960s black,grey,red,blue(L1,PE+N,L2,L3). Red was L3, but could be protective earth in single phase circuits or switched conduit also! This was dangerous, so they came up with two-coloured wires for protective earth ONLY, absolutely ONLY and NEVER for something else, so even colourblind people could distinguish the wires.
Yeah you are right, there used to be all black phase cables. Or for single phase standard colors have been black blue yeelow/green, which makes many people assume black is the first phase. In reality both black or brown would have been appropriate colors for those cables all the time. Back in the times of all black 3phase or 5 wire cables i remember the better ones at least having number 1, 2, 3 stamped on the black wires.
Do not truck this end. I'm confused. what does it mean?
Edit: googled it and damn this is some dum design
it may be worth your while to buy and keep stocked 1/2"(maybe 3/4") nipple sets/organizers for the gas line and get fittings in bulk bags(much cheaper in the long run).
instead of playing around threading/cutting on the roofs, it should all be done down at the truck/van, because those metal chips can puncture the roofing membrane if stepped on or something gets set on top of them. yeah, it doesn't look as professional with a bunch of couplings and nipples, but threading isn't fun and press tools are too expensive unless you use them daily.
Clear silicone is not an outdoor silicone. It has no UV inhibitors nor is it made to last. Clear is for shower enclosures , fishtanks and glass furniture. Probably out of warranty before it fails, but its use is limited.
And Carrier is garbage anymore. Galvanized bases failing, rusting out, Noisy LG compressors in some units, Causing reverberating noise in metal fastenings.
What is that heat section!? I havent seen one of those yet, used to the old school carrier open burners
lol at waiting for conduit benders, then cannot do offsets. they can be a real pain in the rear, especially if it needs multiple offsets and bends in a shirt area.
until middle of last year, I hardly bent but a few sticks in 25+ years, boy was I rusty and forgot how 180lbs could barely bend 3/4" EMT, then I recalled how much fun it was(yeah nope) when I only weighed 145lbs. it was so long ago I forgot how to do or measure for offsets, internet search to the rescue! I also never bothered to buy benders until last year(lol)
Dud you put the sampling tunes in the smoke detector?
Sorry should watch the whole video first.
Mega press is a huge time and money saver for me. We do generators, so a lot of gas stuff.
I went with the M18 mega press but the M12 press does work for up to 1”. I now only carry up to 12” nipples and just cut and press it for over a foot. The fittings are expensive but you save on the pipe when buying 21’ sticks. Also saves tons of time over threading
I've never seen a burner like that in a carrier... Must be a new design
I really like the way this video is put together, Chris. There is a lot packed into just over 30 minutes. I liked the way the camera was positioned when the lifting operation were taking place in that it was possible to see both Chris's hand signals to the crane operator and what actually happened. It may be simple to some people but some of us have never worked with a crane before and seeing it in practice helps. There was also enough in this video to provide some insight into these new units and their operation. Thank you.
You should definitely have some safety training in crane picks before you work one.
@@KevinfinityDrums I totally agree and want the best training I can get, not bare minimum. Screwing up is not an option.
Really good job I like it 👍
Good job Chris, I think a Milwaukee or Rigid portable threader would be a better choice than a propress for gas lines, you would get more use out of it and it would be cheaper.
Look into the Milwaukee M18 threader. Very portable and easy to use. Get a rigid vice and you are good to go. I prefer threaded fittings for gas personally.
Do the press tool for the gas line, you’ll use it more then you realize and it’s a huge time saver
What's the app you use ??
I hear it cost more than an arm and a legs to get a unit replaced in Cali
It’s the cost of business not just the unit 😏
Is that the proper location for checking static?
As for the temperature setting on the economizer, if you utilize the zip code it will auto populate the set points based on the government's efficiency numbers. Those almost never work for comfort.
Carrier does not do any true R&D for field serviceability!!!!!!!
They probably cross threaded it at the factory because of the stupid location of it.
My dist is no longer doing Jade stuff, either. I wonder if it is due to the new energy savings rules/specs(Title 24?).
Those economizers have a "SAVED SET UP" that you can simply upload to each one you do. You don't have to program them individually on every one, like the Jade.
ABC
Anything But Carrier.
The 2-pole contactor and the EBM Pabst plastic wheel blowers are just not good for long-term.
My residence is serviced by 208/240 3-phase and I put one of those 5-ton/gas packs on my house. So far so good.
Intresting how every ac unit has an duct unit that controls the unit.
In australia with duct units that will connect to the fire control panel and there will also be a relay that is controled by the fire control panel for shutting down the ac.
Some brigades also want to have control over the ac at the fire control panel
I love your quality of work and how you present it!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Why is the new curb so tall and offset to one side?
As always I've learnt many good things from this install. I love how neat your gas and conduit is. Setting the airflow was helpful to see. Taking the door off to burn out the smell was genius. And so much more! Thank you!!
I guess you couldn’t find a smaller Level. 😅😂
What’s this ecoblue thing?
What’s an economizer?
That is a strange looking burner! Only 1 orifice but still has a regular looking heat exchanger???
Great video, as usual I've learnt more about servicing the new equipment in a shorter time than most OEM classes I attend.
Take time to do the preliminary work and thing will go smoothly
Have run into that fluttering before on the resi ultra low nox units a few times
“Safely turn on power”……..with the disconnect wide open….
I have several issues with their economizer a
Really thorough install. Feel like a lot of guys now don’t do half of the things done on a install like this
Sorry but this bugs me to no end, why these places insist on using that horribly inefficient heating?
I think the belimo ecomizers are easier and the ultra low knox its no good
Was the old supply and return measured while the old unit still on the curb or did you go off of the model/ serial number to match the curb up
I’ve had to do both but MTI manufacturing can usually match them up with models and serials. If you have a good rep at the supply house he’ll just take care of it for you - at least my guy at Carrier does
I took the measurements from the side discharge return supply you are one of the best owners in this hvac field I enjoy every video you post excellent work @@hvacmisadventures
Chris, help me to understand why you had such an big offset on the curb.
Changing over from those old, smaller capacity Yorks always seems to come with a huge curb offset. Just did one of those Yorks to a Trane Precedent and the offset was kinda wild looking too.
It did end up rocking on me slightly and I felt like a hack doing it (funny enough this was probably the total opposite of hack though) and after lifting the unit back up to check existing curb and that there were no obstructions, I drilled 2-3 holes down each side and used some large lag screws and sent them into the curb. It’s holding strong now
@@hvacmisadventures Thank you. I knew there was something I was not seeing. I use to heavy commercial and industrial before I retired.
Thats one of those Low NOx burners isn't it....i remember everywhere except where im from in San Diego had to use Low NOx crap. My buddies up in Murrieta and Temecula have to use those. Its just a guess....never seen one before...haven't lived in CA in 6 years now.
Why is it so high off the roof? I've never seen that?
Curb adapter
@johnbell6956 that is what is sits on. I'm asking why?
@@jo6520 to match up ductwork between brands and models. Layouts are different
Better than bending down to work on it, to.me it's at the perfect height.
@@jo6520it’s because the supply and return openings on the bottom of the new unit are in different positions versus the old unit.
Gotta love those Siemens Econ modules…. 👎
24:04 - I see you have Piston set as your metering device. Won’t that skew MeasureQuick’s diagnostics?
26:04 - The math is easy when you use 30 degree bends: double the distance of your offset needed to get the distance between the opposite bends. Also, you are using the correct term: LB - for ell back. They also make an ell left (LL) and ell right (LR) depending on the orientation you need; but, we’ve never made the distinction and just call them all LBs no matter the orientation. I like using LBs because they’re easier to pull through than a 90 or a saddle.
No it was a piston
I hate ultra low nox stupid California laws
They dont call it a pile of york for no reason.
Clean work. Thank you for explaining the smoke detectors. Also are those hats for sale in your pod room
Thanks
One problem I noticed with your smoke wiring. Power supply for smoke can not come off the tstat thermals. Pull 24v off of the transformer. When the smoke trips you will loose 24v at the tstat terminals causing smoke to operate incorrectly and you will fail your inspection .Ask me how I know....
Those ultra low nox units are strange looking. When setting the fan speed on ecoblue units, you need to be running high speed fan. G and Y1 are low speed, W and Y2 are high speed and the taps you put the meter leads in show the speed signal for high speed fan no matter what it’s actually running at. So if you give it a call for G, your static will be low speed reading but your vdc is for high speed.
Great install! I enjoy your knowledgeable videos. Wish our company operated like this lol
Mega press is awesome. You mentioned 12v in the video. I think that’s only pro press. Mega would likely be 18v.
We also have the battery operated threader. As some one who likes to thread their gas lines I find myself using the press more often though. They have their pros and cons but for this install as an example, the press would have it done in less than an hour. Threader still has all of the set up with oil and stand. Where as you can bring one hand held tool onto the roof with the appropriate size head.
Nice job from crane driver ❤
Chris, nice install. Do you use HTSG on the rubbers of the smoke detectors' outside cover? or leave them dry as they are? Do they allow you to do that for extra weather intrusion protection?
If you are new here, this video is brought to you by sporlan, and if you’re old enough you’ll also know some videos are brought to you by PBS, the public broadcasting station. I feel the same nostalgia every time Chris posts his videos with that intro 😂
This low nox units the gas pressure sweet spot seems to be 2.8 on package units. We’ve been dealing with them the past 2-3 years here in central California. If the gas pressure is off it’ll make weird jet noises and overheat
Looks like Carrier changed there gas burner section.
Is that the low-nox type burner? I’ve put dozens of ecoblue units in recently in NC and they still have the normal looking burner section. I’ve never seen that one before - thought it was modulating at first until he started talking about it
Beautiful install! Everything documented at startup for reference in the future. Working as intended. A portable threader would simplify your gas piping and you wouldn’t have to rely on someone else cutting and threading per your instructions
People who enjoy working on York units make masochists blush
As alway a very thorough install!
Why didn't you press the copper cap?
Tri stand, ridgid hand threader, spray lube for occasional use does it for me. Only take a few minutes to cut and thread. Fairly low cost. Dies may be the same on power threader if you wanted to upgrade later.
Great work, Chris.
Yorks are a pain and not only that, we also seen a lot of failures with them and leaks on the microchannel coils. We like Trane and Carrier here in SFL.
Duct detectors should be installed on the supply duct.with a gas unit it needs to go below roof.
you can usually use a regular 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" extension "backwards" to remove the square head pipe plugs on the manifolds/valves. that gets you out away from the tight areas, then just use your regular wrenches on the other end. if that fails 12-point sockets will work too. 🥸