8-Pack Shown in Video: amzn.to/3IwcSu1 (Canada) amzn.to/3N01ppf (Backup Link) Other brands of long straws: amzn.to/45j6MGZ (Canada) 5-10 Pack Shown in Video: amzn.to/42TkEGg (USA) Other brands of long straws: amzn.to/41WqYeX (USA)
You can ask the old man, we probably remove and ultrasonic clean at least 95% of the carburetors that come into the shop for repairs. The remaining 5% get the main and pilot jets flushed out and they usually start 1st pull, and run smooth as you saw here in the video. It's not ideal, but it gets the job done quick when customers don't want to spend a fortune. And I don't offer any guarantees on these jobs either, because without pulling the carb apart, you can't see what may still be in there. The best thing to do is to keep running fresh fuel through them, and keep them running!
@@bigsonslawncare It works when properly done i have seen many videos with the down and dirty carb clean where it is good enough but i still hear a slight hunting issue.
Works great we use it to clean carbon build up in engines, at this time we are using K100S+ for stabilising our fuel but Jake has just set up a contract with another supplier with something that is not available on line and will be posting a video on this in the near future.
👍👍👍 Thanks. I have just watched 2 of your older videos. Testing a solenoid and testing a key switch. So I know my problem lies elsewhere. 🤔😊😊. Thank you.
Good and complete video. Got away with an even cheaper approach to lenghtening the spray tube by joining 2 standard-size tubes with a small piece of tygon fuel line I had laying around. Using heatshrink tubing shouls also work. Regards !
Talking about great gunk dissolving products, I use Mercury's (the ouboard manufacturer) Power Tune. Like that Seafoam, it's also advertised as a carbon removal product.Regards !
Hopefully it’s good. I like to use milk house heaters or heat guns to load theses gennys. If the low speed jet passages aren’t fully clean it will show up when you use eco mode then turn on load.
If any small engine is going to sit not used for any length of time, you should have 2 oz. of Seafoam in the gas. Then you won't have these kinds of problems. It will keep you carb and fuel system clean and is a good fuel stabilizer.
Yes just for a little cruise, she's running good and just got her tuned up. Filmed a little update video that I'll be uploading soon. Thanks for watching Don!
if you want a real quick and dirty (and very effective in an emergency). start the engine with carb cleaner. (often works best when sprayed right in the plug hole). once the engine starts, quickly snuff the carburetor with the palm of your hand (making an air tight seal). This will create an intense vacuum and force fuel through the jets and unclog them. It's also a good way to remove water accumulated in the carb bowl. Now THAT is quick and dirty.
Yea there's been a few packs sold by the looks of it, hopefully they restock. This 8 pack will literally last me years lol I cut one into 3 it's more than enough for what I'm using it for!
I can tell it was painful for you to do the down and dirty carb clean. I agree with you that a proper cleaning is way better, but also understand the customer’s desire to save money. Is it possible to snake a little wire down the emulsion tube/jet from inside the carb throat to clear any blockage?
Yes I bet you could do that, but blasting some type of cleaner at least it'll soften up the debris. At least it runs and the customer saved some money. But yes, a full carb removal, disassembly and cleaning with rebuild kit is always the best.
To all of Jakes viewers i need your help to join in watching Top Conkers Live stream next Saturday at 2 pm EST. He normally has 35 watching and it would be nice to get 250 watching nest week since he has been thinking about quitting the lives. This would surprise him and maybe keep him going!
I'm kinda disappointed you didn't use SeaFoam the traditional way. Sprayed into the air intake, then heat soaking for an hour. I get that the idea was to get the motor up and running, cheap and easy. But if the client is charged for the shop materials (1 can of SeaFoam spray), then wouldn't it be a greater benefit for the generator, to use more of the product during the final stages of the repair? Part of the winter storage prep for my lawn mower and riding mower, is to give it a few squirts of carb cleaner.
I used like 1/8th of a can here, not much at all to be honest. I just wanted to use it to blast out the main jet, not so much to get the carbon out of the engine. Thanks for watching!
Robert we were not try to remove carbon deposits from the engine which is traditionally what you do with Seafoam it was using it along with carb cleaner to remove s piece of debris or ethanol gum from the main jet. Jake did an excellent video of storage but the best is run it out of fuel add some alkylate ethanol free canned fuel that lasts two years run it again then fog the cylinder or pull the plug and spray the cylinder with small engine storage spray wnen the piston is at the bottom of the stroke
@@waynestefinashen239 Yes, I understood this. That's what was stated in my original post. The point I'm trying to make is, why not use the rest of the can of product, to clean out gum, once the initial problem is solved. The customer is being charged anyway.
@@robertlee4172 Got it sorry for the misinterpretation, and yes the fogging of the engine could have been done with a slight cost increase since we would have used more of the Seafoam.
@@waynestefinashen239 Billable hours are billable hours. Which is to say...$$$$$$. If the customer initially asks for a cheap repair, once the first task is completed, you'd have an opportunity for an upsell. All it takes is a phone call. A win win, for both, customer and your accounts receivable.
0:16 I tried your vid on the mower that starts n dies...cleared the fuel tank, cleaned the carb, replaced the carb n still it dies after mowing a few feet. Any suggestions?
Check the gas cap vent? Loosen it off, and if it improves, then it's not venting properly. If nothing different happens, then you may need to disassemble and clean it.
Wasn't the gas cap, replaced the carb, still won't run. It's twin cylinder, so I ran a test disconnecting one plug at a time. Ran better when left disconnected. Checking valve lash now.
Nope, I just drop the bowl, spray up, replace bowl. If it runs great, if not then it needs a complete clean, unless it's got the plastic idle circuit jet.
The issue with dropping the bowl when a carb is vertical like this, is sometimes it's difficult to reseat a new (or the original) bowl gasket. Usually why I would prefer this method, or else I'll just take it off and ultrasonic clean jt. Thanks for watching!
@Eliminator Performance valid point Jake, but only had that issue once and a wee bit of silicone grease held the gasket in place so I wouldn't crimp it with the bowl... also you could always turn the item on its side for a second ha ha , us old men think we know it all, cause we're all married and have to think on our feet. Love your videos!
@@EliminatorPerformance I also save all those red straws, I took 4 once and used some small shrink tube to butt join them into a massive tube for work on my dodge ram... resourceful
Tell that customer you will not work on it. I fix that by taking the carb off (I know it is a pain in the butt) and soaking it in my ultrasonic cleaner filled with carb cleaner, and sometimes that does not work.
Generator runs fine now (tested 4 times cold starts 1st pull on choke and no surging off choke) after Jake did this trick and not only did it save us a lot of aggravation it saved the customer money. Like you said sometimes even ultrasonic cleaning does not solve the issue and we did not want to get involved with the hassle of removing this carb to clean it and then maybe have to remove it again. Rest assured this job not only cleaned out the main jet but also cleared all the debris from the carb bowl and with our fresh 91 Octane no ethanol fuel and k100S+ stabilizer the customer will not have any issues.
I fix just about anything my customers bring me, and if I don't have to take something completely apart it's a bonus. Again, we only do these "down and dirty" carb cleans when the customer specifically asks for it.
Plus it will keep your furnace running when it is 20 below and there is no power but i would not buy one but would go with the natural gas generators hooked directly into the power supply of the house.
Why wouldn't you just remove the bowl in place and remove the main jet blow it out put it back together I think that would take less time than putting the can together to blow through the main jet from inside the carburetor throat
If you ever tried that and got lucky enough not to drop the carb bowl gasket where you had to get it back on without twisting it you would know why we did it this way. That method you describe is only perfect if you know you will not lose or need to replace the bowl gasket which is always an uncertainty. If it works out ok it is great but if it does not work out it can be a disaster and take up more time than removing the entire carb. The method Jake showed in the video is an alternative that works using a SeaFoam straw, basically the point of the video. And as they said in that tv show NOW YOU KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY. We appreciate the comment and thought but that is the reason we do not do it that way.
It’s best not do a halfass carb job because they will talk trash about you later, 57 years of mechanic work and I know better Fix it right and take a loss or it’s no period
8-Pack Shown in Video: amzn.to/3IwcSu1 (Canada)
amzn.to/3N01ppf (Backup Link)
Other brands of long straws: amzn.to/45j6MGZ (Canada)
5-10 Pack Shown in Video: amzn.to/42TkEGg (USA)
Other brands of long straws: amzn.to/41WqYeX (USA)
You can ask the old man, we probably remove and ultrasonic clean at least 95% of the carburetors that come into the shop for repairs. The remaining 5% get the main and pilot jets flushed out and they usually start 1st pull, and run smooth as you saw here in the video. It's not ideal, but it gets the job done quick when customers don't want to spend a fortune. And I don't offer any guarantees on these jobs either, because without pulling the carb apart, you can't see what may still be in there. The best thing to do is to keep running fresh fuel through them, and keep them running!
I've often wondered how this works and if it really works glad to see this💯👍🏾
@@bigsonslawncare It works when properly done i have seen many videos with the down and dirty carb clean where it is good enough but i still hear a slight hunting issue.
I swear by SeaFoam.
I have added it to all of my small engines as a general fuel maintenance additive for the last 20 years.
Awesome stuff, man!!
Works great we use it to clean carbon build up in engines, at this time we are using K100S+ for stabilising our fuel but Jake has just set up a contract with another supplier with something that is not available on line and will be posting a video on this in the near future.
@@waynestefinashen239 Excellent product
Great tip on the long tubes. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
👍👍👍 Thanks. I have just watched 2 of your older videos. Testing a solenoid and testing a key switch. So I know my problem lies elsewhere. 🤔😊😊. Thank you.
Good luck Pete!
Good and complete video. Got away with an even cheaper approach to lenghtening the spray tube by joining 2 standard-size tubes with a small piece of tygon fuel line I had laying around. Using heatshrink tubing shouls also work. Regards !
Nice fix, gotta do what you have to sometimes to make things work. Thanks for watching!
Another awesome repair, well done. Thanks .
Thanks for watching!
An excellent informative video! Thank-you.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing these great tips. I used the Seafoam cleaner to fix my sisters snow blower earlier this year works great.
Thanks for watching Jim!
That's a service you can't get from the dealer - great stuff Jake 👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Talking about great gunk dissolving products, I use Mercury's (the ouboard manufacturer) Power Tune. Like that Seafoam, it's also advertised as a carbon removal product.Regards !
I'll have to try it sometime!
Hopefully it’s good. I like to use milk house heaters or heat guns to load theses gennys. If the low speed jet passages aren’t fully clean it will show up when you use eco mode then turn on load.
Yes heavy load, we were thinking of getting a heater like James Condon uses to test his. Thanks for watching!
I prefer A foam and B foam. Thanks for this video. I always wished I had a longer tube.......
Yes the tubes are what make the difference, as I mentioned, you can use any product you'd like. Thanks for watching!
I’m still a old hard headed B12 mechanic and it’s great, tea seaform is ok but twice the price and half as good
I'll have to try it out, thanks for watching!
i always use some seafoam and marvel mystery oil in my gas. give a little more in snowblower beginning of season. always good to go.
Thanks for watching!
Looking great Jake thanks for the tip 👍
Thanks for watching!
I to use sea foam to clean my carburetor and it work great great video Jake
Thanks for watching!
If any small engine is going to sit not used for any length of time, you should have 2 oz. of Seafoam in the gas. Then you won't have these kinds of problems. It will keep you carb and fuel system clean and is a good fuel stabilizer.
Good day Jake Interesting ! I might have to try that sometime. Thanks Long wk end , R U & the Ford going out?
Yes just for a little cruise, she's running good and just got her tuned up. Filmed a little update video that I'll be uploading soon. Thanks for watching Don!
Nice trick, thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
if you want a real quick and dirty (and very effective in an emergency). start the engine with carb cleaner. (often works best when sprayed right in the plug hole). once the engine starts, quickly snuff the carburetor with the palm of your hand (making an air tight seal). This will create an intense vacuum and force fuel through the jets and unclog them. It's also a good way to remove water accumulated in the carb bowl. Now THAT is quick and dirty.
Thanks have used that method on a few machines but it really does not stop the issue of ethanol and debris in the carb bowl.
Super informative 👍🏻
Well buddy, you used everything but the horses hoof on that machine lol
When it does not start he lets the horse give it a kick and that usually works
@@Samlol23_drrich Lol what ever works right lol
And she starts 1st pull and runs smooth!
@@DIYVariety I know a guy that hits everything with a hammer and thinks that will solve the issue lol
@@waynestefinashen239 Lol it only works if its wraped in a rag lol
Since this is an inverter generator, it should auto-regulate the hertz output.
Yea I noticed the voltage fluctuating but the hz were stable right on 60, thanks for watching!
Would it be a good idea to add SeaFoam or Carb Cleaner to the fuel tank once in a while? Thanks.
Probably could fab a plug for the idle air intake
Yea so the seafoam would be forced elsewhere, I like that idea and will give it a try next time I'm doing a quick clean. Thanks Ken!
Lol. 8 pack cdn currently unavailable. Bought up by the video viewers no doubt.
Yea there's been a few packs sold by the looks of it, hopefully they restock. This 8 pack will literally last me years lol I cut one into 3 it's more than enough for what I'm using it for!
Good tips
Thanks for watching!
I can tell it was painful for you to do the down and dirty carb clean. I agree with you that a proper cleaning is way better, but also understand the customer’s desire to save money. Is it possible to snake a little wire down the emulsion tube/jet from inside the carb throat to clear any blockage?
Yes I bet you could do that, but blasting some type of cleaner at least it'll soften up the debris. At least it runs and the customer saved some money. But yes, a full carb removal, disassembly and cleaning with rebuild kit is always the best.
@@EliminatorPerformance agreed. Cheers from just up the QEW in Hamilton
It’s a disgrace to ask a mechanic to halfass fix it and they talk trash about you later
I just tell them I don’t do halfass work , Bye 👋
Plus it takes longer to halfass it with seafoam and it’s a dam joke
To all of Jakes viewers i need your help to join in watching Top Conkers Live stream next Saturday at 2 pm EST. He normally has 35 watching and it would be nice to get 250 watching nest week since he has been thinking about quitting the lives. This would surprise him and maybe keep him going!
Instead of regular pour type seafoam I mix 50 ml isopropyl alcohol, 100 ml naphtha fuel and 200 ml diesel.
I'll have to try that sometime, thanks for watching!
@Eliminator Performance got that idea from internet where a guy analyzed the msds? sheet
I'm kinda disappointed you didn't use SeaFoam the traditional way. Sprayed into the air intake, then heat soaking for an hour. I get that the idea was to get the motor up and running, cheap and easy. But if the client is charged for the shop materials (1 can of SeaFoam spray), then wouldn't it be a greater benefit for the generator, to use more of the product during the final stages of the repair? Part of the winter storage prep for my lawn mower and riding mower, is to give it a few squirts of carb cleaner.
I used like 1/8th of a can here, not much at all to be honest. I just wanted to use it to blast out the main jet, not so much to get the carbon out of the engine. Thanks for watching!
Robert we were not try to remove carbon deposits from the engine which is traditionally what you do with Seafoam it was using it along with carb cleaner to remove s piece of debris or ethanol gum from the main jet. Jake did an excellent video of storage but the best is run it out of fuel add some alkylate ethanol free canned fuel that lasts two years run it again then fog the cylinder or pull the plug and spray the cylinder with small engine storage spray wnen the piston is at the bottom of the stroke
@@waynestefinashen239
Yes, I understood this. That's what was stated in my original post. The point I'm trying to make is, why not use the rest of the can of product, to clean out gum, once the initial problem is solved.
The customer is being charged anyway.
@@robertlee4172 Got it sorry for the misinterpretation, and yes the fogging of the engine could have been done with a slight cost increase since we would have used more of the Seafoam.
@@waynestefinashen239
Billable hours are billable hours. Which is to say...$$$$$$. If the customer initially asks for a cheap repair, once the first task is completed, you'd have an opportunity for an upsell. All it takes is a phone call.
A win win, for both, customer and your accounts receivable.
0:16 I tried your vid on the mower that starts n dies...cleared the fuel tank, cleaned the carb, replaced the carb n still it dies after mowing a few feet. Any suggestions?
Check the gas cap vent? Loosen it off, and if it improves, then it's not venting properly. If nothing different happens, then you may need to disassemble and clean it.
Well was it the gas cap?
Wasn't the gas cap, replaced the carb, still won't run. It's twin cylinder, so I ran a test disconnecting one plug at a time. Ran better when left disconnected. Checking valve lash now.
Nope, I just drop the bowl, spray up, replace bowl. If it runs great, if not then it needs a complete clean, unless it's got the plastic idle circuit jet.
The issue with dropping the bowl when a carb is vertical like this, is sometimes it's difficult to reseat a new (or the original) bowl gasket. Usually why I would prefer this method, or else I'll just take it off and ultrasonic clean jt. Thanks for watching!
@Eliminator Performance valid point Jake, but only had that issue once and a wee bit of silicone grease held the gasket in place so I wouldn't crimp it with the bowl... also you could always turn the item on its side for a second ha ha , us old men think we know it all, cause we're all married and have to think on our feet. Love your videos!
@@EliminatorPerformance I also save all those red straws, I took 4 once and used some small shrink tube to butt join them into a massive tube for work on my dodge ram... resourceful
Tell that customer you will not work on it. I fix that by taking the carb off (I know it is a pain in the butt) and soaking it in my ultrasonic cleaner filled with carb cleaner, and sometimes that does not work.
Generator runs fine now (tested 4 times cold starts 1st pull on choke and no surging off choke) after Jake did this trick and not only did it save us a lot of aggravation it saved the customer money. Like you said sometimes even ultrasonic cleaning does not solve the issue and we did not want to get involved with the hassle of removing this carb to clean it and then maybe have to remove it again. Rest assured this job not only cleaned out the main jet but also cleared all the debris from the carb bowl and with our fresh 91 Octane no ethanol fuel and k100S+ stabilizer the customer will not have any issues.
I fix just about anything my customers bring me, and if I don't have to take something completely apart it's a bonus. Again, we only do these "down and dirty" carb cleans when the customer specifically asks for it.
@@EliminatorPerformance You are a good man.
That's not a generator. It's a kids toy.
Just a little fella 😉 thanks for watching!
And an expensive one at that!
Plus it will keep your furnace running when it is 20 below and there is no power but i would not buy one but would go with the natural gas generators hooked directly into the power supply of the house.
Somewhere in low Earth orbit there's a Tecumseh emulsion tube and a needle seat or so a friend told me coughImfullofitcough.
Why wouldn't you just remove the bowl in place and remove the main jet blow it out put it back together I think that would take less time than putting the can together to blow through the main jet from inside the carburetor throat
If you ever tried that and got lucky enough not to drop the carb bowl gasket where you had to get it back on without twisting it you would know why we did it this way. That method you describe is only perfect if you know you will not lose or need to replace the bowl gasket which is always an uncertainty. If it works out ok it is great but if it does not work out it can be a disaster and take up more time than removing the entire carb. The method Jake showed in the video is an alternative that works using a SeaFoam straw, basically the point of the video. And as they said in that tv show NOW YOU KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY. We appreciate the comment and thought but that is the reason we do not do it that way.
It’s best not do a halfass carb job because they will talk trash about you later, 57 years of mechanic work and I know better
Fix it right and take a loss or it’s no period
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thank you.