GearBest JGAURORA A5 - Shootout with the Creality CR 10!
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2024
- So you asked for it and here it is folk! The shoot between the Creality CR-10 (goo.gl/wDNeeH) whom many consider the reigning king of 3P printers and the up and coming GearBest JG AURORA A5 Updated (goo.gl/efnSH4) printer! Now there have been a lot of change "haters" out there saying "how dare you say this is a Creality Killer!" (insert arrogant huff here). So this is going to be bit of a LONG video as I am going to walk feature by feature between the Creality and GearBest JG AURORA A5 so you will want to have a beverage handy! Also below is a ton of additional information on this printer and the shoot-out as well as more of my opinions based upon experience so be sure to read down all the way.
Resource Page: diy3dtech.com/g...
Want to see whats inside: diy3dtech.com/w...
IMPORTANT NOTE: The Creality CR-10 used in this comparison is HIGHLY modified and tuned! The GearBest JG AURORA A5 is straight from the box ZERO tuning! This is important to keep in mind because if you are "Joe Average" and buy a Creality and take it out of the box, it will NOT perform as well as the one in the comparison.
Settings for Test Prints:
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Layer thickness: 0.1
Speed: 50mm/sec
Retraction: 6mm at 50mm/sec
Travel Speed: 150mm/sec
Bed Temp: 70(c)
Hotend Temp: Creality 210(c) / JGAURORA A5 200(c)
Pawn URL: www.thingivers...
Filament Creality: Hatchbox Red
Filiament JGAURORA A5: White (what was in the box)
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General Parameters for GearBest JG AURORA A5 3D Printer:
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Nozzle diameter: 0.4mm
Nozzle temperature: Room temperature to 250 degree
Product forming size: 305 x 305 x 320mm
Layer thickness: 0.1-0.3mm
Memory card offline print: USB Thumb Drive
LCD Screen: Touch Sensitive Color
Print speed: 10 - 150mm/s
Platform temperature: Room temperature to 110 degree
Material diameter: 1.75mm
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Notes:
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[1] IMHO the lack of the 80mm is not an issue as while it is "possible" to print those extra 80mm, the issue will arise from the fact the Creality has moving bed (unlike say the Tronxy x5s) and thus as print climbs. The center of gravity will shift and induce some level of error. Now this error in many cases can be of acceptable tolerances but this is seconded by occurrence of "need" to print object that tall and trading the 80mm for other feature such as a second Z-Axis motor.
[2] In the videos you will notice what appears to additional hot-end movement for the GearBest JG AURORA A5 3D. I believe (note "believe" and have not confirmed) is due to the firmware's handling of arc's and also feels this is what caused the GearBest JG AURORA A5 3D to run a bit longer as this increased "distance" the hot-end had to travel. Now for the "Average Joe" this will not be an issue as to see this you need a microscope. However for the power user, I would recommend reflashing.
[3] Since making this video I have reflashed with Marlin and reduced the stepper motor noise to less then the CR-10 without changing the driver current but not sure I am happy with it. Watch for an up-coming video
[4] Something I forgot to note in my review is that the "contained" movements (i.e. belts and lead screws) give this a major one-up for schools and office setting (homes with younger children too) to avoid injury. Even the hot-end is better shielded with the plate which goes across the front of the X-Axis.
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Interested in getting your own JGAURORA A5 Creality CR-10 killer 3D Printer? Well check out the deals on Gearbest for them here goo.gl/efnSH4 as these folks have been great to work with and are huge supporters of the 3D Printing community!
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I might have missed but ability to replace stepper drivers is a huge plus on the A5. I also would point out it that it's a little more difficult to print with. I have printed with quite a few now and I was having layer separation problems. Don't get me wrong. It's pretty fantastic printer just some things to take into account
I am little confused "replace stepper driver"? I spoke of turning down the current. You can take a peek inside here: diy3dtech.com/whats-inside-the-jgaurora-a5-3d-printer/ and see the MKS board/drivers and if your having delamination issues. Would suggest looking filament & Temp settings. However if your running the stock firmware you might want to try to switch to the newest version of Marlin. I am experimenting with version right now found that the newest version substantially changes stepper behavior. Now I not sure I like that or not so more testing, but watch for a coming video :-)
DIY3DTECH.com yes replace with tmc drivers
Nice comparison. couple of thoughts. the CR-10 does not come with a 3d printed extruder. I assume you added that? or maybe you have a very very early CR-10 ??? Beta model maybe?
I don't like the feed system of the Aurora. its very "closed" and very hard or impossible to do anything manually so if something goes wrong..... for example you can't "push" filament. there is no mechanism for it except to "feed" on the screen which you can not do live. not a big deal. maybe even a non issue as my A5 works flawlessly and has never once given me any trouble except the first time I did a filament swap. since you can't "push" it left a tail inside which prevented new filament from entering requiring me to pull it apart to remove it so now I manually via the screen feed then unfeed. no problem since doing that.
from a modder/entusiast POV the scores would be reversed with the CR-10 winning overall BUT I agree with you 100% from a business/professional POV the A5 has the lines in spades. very nice "clean" looking machine. its one you would not mind sitting in the office for customers and clients to see.
I do wish the Y carriage was a bit more stout and stiffer than it is. bed level is "sensitive" as it flexes easily BUT once I got the bed level I have never once had to touch it again after a couple hundred hours of printing SO that might be a non issue.
Bed level is also much much faster. to PLA temps its comparable to the CR-10 but once you try to go higher not only is the A5 faster but IT CAN go higher. 90c is no problem.
I am curious about one thing though. I have no problems printing to 100% of the 300x300 bed area of the CR-10. you can't??
Thanks for commenting, yes mine came from Gearbest with a 3D printed extruder (yellow) and it's a little less then a year old I think. Also if you watch my setup video on the JG, you can push the filament as there is a release button and I have come to like the closed system as I now have three printers with it and it seems to be the way things are going. Also I am sure on your channel too you are seeing more and more of what I refer to as non-modders coming into the market as it matures seeking more "turn-key" solutions. So your question "have no problems printing to 100% of the 300x300 bed area" sort of yes. However to back up, a lot of viewers wrote to me to say "hey the bed is really 310x310 so its bigger than the JG" and well sort of as mine is more like 308x308 and Crealtiy sells it as 300x300 so my comparison is at advertised numbers. Can I print to the edge, of 300? Yes, is it overly effective? Not really because as the closer you crep to the edge of any printer, the greater the chance you have of warping or lifting even with PLA becomes a reality as it is a BIG bed so I like to provide a bit of a buffer (this is why I like the Tronxy x5s as it let's me get to 300x300 with a buffer area). Oh and I love the 24v verses 12v PS in the JG!
Interesting. mine DOES NOT have a release button. I had mentioned that to them that it would be a good idea to include one. I am glad they are still evolving the printer. that is a good thing indeed.
YES. non modders. this is why I like the A5. very appealing to higher end "professional" type (think officer workers executive types) who want something that just looks nicer but still works well.
its why I asked for the A5. :-)
my bed is 310x310 but the printable area is 300x300 I believe. same with the ender. 165x165 bed but printable area is 150x160 (advertized as 150x150) YES I do hope they upgrade to 24v it makes things so much faster!! or at least go AC heat bed like tevo did.
I don't have a peeling problem near the edges and I print everything to max envelope if I can :-) I am a sucker for 150 hours prints :-) hehe 60c and print in z. nothing warps (PLA at least)
all current cr-10 variations come with ABS molded feeder components. in fact there are no 3D printed parts anymore on any creality printer that I am aware of.
Really? Now its is hard to find, have you seen this video: ua-cam.com/video/ZLfNcbUu9oc/v-deo.html Yes my CR-10 has a number of 3D printed parts :-(
Have you looked through the G code that you posted to the machines? Are there actually G2 and G3 moves for the controller to interpret? I use Slic3r and it seems to only post tiny G1 moves to make up arcs.
No I have not, talk with Scott from the Marlin team, he mentioned setting the slicer to use G2/3 might be better rather than G1 and bunch of tiny movement so your likely correct here...
I'm a CNC guy so the small G1s irk me, but it's probably fine for 3d printers. It would be cool to devise a ballbar-like test to see how the different controllers and settings handle arcs, even if that doesn't involve circular interpolation moves.
This is interesting "ballbar" will have to look as it should be do-able. However its not so much how the controller does, but more so the slicer itself creates the GCode for the arc as your correct about G1's
Looking forward to the reflashed board video. Also thanks for posting the teardown and board pictures. I was skeptical at about your first video because it was titled " cr-10 killer" but I do see the many advantages this printer has.
This Monday will be a. “What’s inside” video and next Friday is how to reflashed. Right now I am expermenting with the marlin firmware. I also find if the number of people that sent nasty messages because I said that (lol). For me it’s a no Brainer as you get two Z Axis, better controller, touch sensitive screen, black diamond bed, and purpose built frame instead of cobbled together maker rail for basicly the same money. 😉
I've been checking around for months, watching review after review of different machines and I think you might have convinced me to buy the JGaurora. I want to get some other opinions but it has everything I'm looking for out of the box and at a price point I can accept. I just hope they fix that power off issue. I imagine it can be really annoying even if it's entertaining to watch.
I have a dozen printers and out of the box the JG is the best for the money and ease of use hands down. Not sure what you mean "hope they fix that power off issue"...
Maybe I misunderstood but I thought you had mentioned that when you turn it off and on again sometimes it tries to finish a print midair and you had some footage of it making spaghetti.
Hey, Joe average here, I'm looking to buy my first 3d printer and came upon these, I was wondering what upgrades you had on the crealtiy, as you said the Aurora is out of the box whereas you've done upgrading to the cr10, would it be difficult to install everything you have done to it, what is the "actual" price of the cr10 with it's upgrades. ?
Also love your videos, great quality 😊
Many thanks for the kind comments! Well first off you would not buy the CR-10 but the CR-10s now not sure the prices but for the JG with its 24v power supply, dual Z-Axis, real extruder, touch screen, etc is just hands down out of the box better than the Creality. As if you seeking a hobby buy the creality, if wanting to 3D print buy the JG and having a hobby is good as I have one and if its hacking you want cool (as I like to hack) it but you have to be able to hack in the first place if you know what I mean...
Great comparison. Honestly, I went in to this video with a bit of an attitude, not because of any love of the CR-10 (I don't own one so I have no horses in the race), but because when someone calls one printer that is as new as the A5 a killer of another I get kind of put off by that. However, you have converted me. VERY well done, great comparisons, and if I'm honest, I would have called (based on prints that I've seen, and other features) the Tornado the CR-10 killer.
LOL! Thanks you also have to have a little fun doing these videos too (hence the title) as this is just a hobby :-) However when you look at the feature for the same money its pretty easy to make the claim anyway :-)
1 Z-motor is better in my opinion. Two motors will occasionally need leveling because they lose position when the power is turned off, causing it to spring back from held microsteps to different positions. A single motor setup should never lose the level setting. I want to add drive belts between the Z-screws on my printers
With one you will always have "sag" and in many case it maybe acceptable variance, yet two is always better as I have done zillions of prints and found fewer issues and high quality with two especially if your doing large number of prints...
How much was this printer at the time of filming? It’s on gearbest right now for ~$350 and I dunno If i should go for it, the CR 10 or the Tronxy x5s (or x5sa when it’s more readily available). I like the upgradability and community surrounding the cr 10 and the features of the A5, but the Tronxy is sooo cheap and has that nice CoreXY design. It seems the Tronxy has much less coverage, and lots of quality control issues. I also don’t love how the A5 is built. It’s pretty, but hard to upgrade. Some advice would be greatly appreciated!
I am starting to get this question a lot, as far as performance Tronxy x5s, but it is a major kit and not for the faint of heart. Out of the box plug and go, the JGAURORA is hands down the winner and basically no need to upgrade because it has everything out of the box. The CR-10, well it is an okay printer and people (even I) have a soft spot for it because it was the open the door to 12x12 printing affordably however is lack a lot of the key piece of a "modern" printer...
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, i waited just a bit too long and the flash sale ended. It's back up to $516. I found it on a site called DealExtreme for the flash sale price, so ima read around and see people's experience with them and possibly buy it. It's strange, right now the cr10 mini is actually just 1$ cheaper than the full size one. Even the Tronxy has gone up to $390. Strange to see this kind of price spike, but I assume there'll be another sale soon? They seem to happen fairly often.
EDIT: it’s back to normal again
I looked at the Aurora A5 printer with fine toothcomb after they lowered the price to that of a CR10 and Anycubic I3 Mega. A while back I bought an Anycubic I3 Mega over a CR10 for the solid structure and extra features, and not so much for volume (I don't print large vases, but mostly mechanical small parts that require some degree of precision) and since I have personally used the I3 almost non-stop for months and printed thousands of parts on it, in comparison to the Aurora A5 which is more a wanna be refined I3 Mega, the Anycubic I3 Mega still beats both the CR10 and Aurora A5 in my honest opinion. The biggest issues with the Aurora A5 is that they use 3D printed parts in the gantry, as compared to Anycubic I3 and from most reports I've seen people have had issues with the firmware. Having to reflash is not cool when you want a machine to perform out of the box. I was attracted to the A5 for its similarity to the I3 Mega, and similar pirce! for its larger print volume than the I3 Mega, and it really looked clean, but looks is not everything. The side covers on the tower rattle and is something that other than for aesthetics, it would have been best if the manufacturer would have made the tower solid steel, like on the Anycubic I3 Mega and I have concerns also with the track and way on which the heated bed is mounted on the Aurora. On the I3 Mega it is clean and still accesible from the top if you need to service the belt mechnism. I would still like to see Anycubic (and have suggested to them) they make a larger machine with the same features they already have on the I3, since this is a great machine. Anycubic provides and extra hot end complete and I have printed so much that I am now on the spare hot end, but have bought more just to have in stock. I love the Anycubic I3 Mega for its reliability. Out of the box this machine printed great and still does, but with use, one still has to tram the machine as with any other (bed level it, if you will) and take care of it as if you would take care of any precision instrument for consistent results.
Cool channel I sub-ed as I also do a drone channel too. However I can't say I full tracked your note what I was trying to say is the JG is a purpose built printer and the CR10 is just bunch of maker rail. Why does this make a difference? Well for one, helps keep little fingers out of moving parts so for "Joe Average" that purchasing for his kids, its safer alternative. Also the color touch screen for "Joe Average" means it far easier to use. As I liken the 3D printer world to the former computer world where it was dominated by people going to computer show, buying pieces and building their computers. Today that is all but gone and people are more focus on what the computer can then over-clocking it as in the past. The same is true for the 3D printer, as the initial push has been the hobbyist, however they like in the computer example are the minority of the market as the real market is the user and this is where I see the focus moving too...
Good video and some very good points, I have a CR-10 which does have its issues at times, anyway a friend has the Aurora and I have to say that I was very impressed with and its ability to print well, thinking about getting one in the future, as you say it is a nice looking machine and I like the touch screen. regards. RobUK
Thanks for the feedback! :-)
I have seen other reviews that say there is no wifi chip at all on the boards in the control box. Are you sure that it actually has wifi and creates a hotspot?
It says it does on the screen and displays an SSID name on the screen but I have found no this nor checked if broadcast the SSID yet...
Angus says it has wifi on the menu but it doesn't do anything. (ua-cam.com/video/JwWhZuDXNcY/v-deo.html). Da Hai Zhu says there is no wifi chip in the machine (ua-cam.com/video/fHjPIeWjshI/v-deo.html) at t=635
In terms of print quality would the creality cr10s be better than the A5?
Since I don’t have an A5 it’s hard to say yet from what I read. Would say CR10
Thanks for your review. Could you please measure the loudness of your tronxy x5s? I will buy the jg aurora 5 or the tronxy x5s but i am unsure. What do you think?
what do you want to do with it? This will be the key and its around the same as the CR-10 noise wise :-)
DIY3DTECH.com i had a cr10 and selled it yesterday after 3 days of use. I didnt liked it. I think it was the noise the printer when the axis moving. I have an ender 4 from creality which works great, but has some geometric problems when printing circles. The circles were not round they were oval. And the cr10 had this also. I like the corexy mechanic i think its not so noisy like prusa i3 style printers with xy moving heatbeds. There are my question if the tronxy x5s could produce the same quality as the aurora5? I use 3d printers for rc Modelling so the z height isnt that important but the x and y is good when its more. Sorry for confusing writing...
A shootout between the x5s and the aurora 5 would be great...
The Tronxy X5s if built properly and tuned correctly can out do the the JG Aurora and CR-10, because the bed doesn't move in the Y axis.
I didn't do a shoot between the two them as I do not see them in the same class is one is DIY Kit and the other ready to print. As the shoot is from the perspective of someone coming into the hobby for the first and Tronxy isn't for them at all...
Excellent review. Ths is a great channel. Have you a video on best ways to declog a nozzle?
Many thanks! If you look in the playlists (likely in the Wanhao group) there will be a few and I do have a curated web page with tools for this here: diy3dtech.com/nozzle-removal-and-cleaning-tools/
can one hook the JGAurora A5 up using octoprint and a raspberry pi? That has been my solution for the CR-10 micro SD cards. Just open a web browser and drag the gcode to the octoprint web app and print... really can't get much easier and one can even monitor prints from a smartphone somewhere else in the house. It is amazing how quiet the printer is when its in the basement behind a closed door. :)
Yes sir you can connect to USB host port which connect directly the MKS board. The only thing to be aware of is that filiment out sensor is connect t MKS TFT 28 3.0 board and therefore if using Octoprint, the filament out functionality will not be available..
I'd really like to know how these two printers compare to the Anycubic I3 MEGA.
Since I don't have one, I googled it and appears to be of a [somewhat] similar form factor just more Wanaho-ish...
What is a "Black Diamond" surface? A BuildTak clone? Is it an adhesively attached surface which can be replaced?
Its what they call it, (no clue what it physically is) it is some sort of coating applied to the glass or impregnated into it that works like PEI on steroids. To replace you would have to replace the complete bed however it cared for it appears to have the ability to last a long time if not scraped as while warm you can pull PLA part off, but when cool there is basically zero adhesion...
its an ultrabase clone
it is permanently attached to the glass, which is adhered to the bed. not replaceable, without a sizeable amount of work.
@@Erikrl1 Currently, JG doesn't sell a replacement for the A5 bed anymore (at least that I could find). I ended up getting an A5S bed that worked but I had to separate the glass from the old, damaged hot plate to salvage the screws. The A5S bed currently works fine and actually having a naked bed and using clips allows for more versatility than it did originally. Fair warning though: you will need a LOT of acetone/brake cleaner to clean the adhesive off of the bottom of the glass if you plan to salvage it as well. I still haven't gotten around to finish cleaning it because I got a 1.5mm G10 board that I clip onto the bed and it works so well.
I find the CR-10 more aestethic than the JGAURORA! I don't know why!
To each there own and that is okay too :-)
Depending on my mood, that is the one I like better. Sometimes I like the refined look, sometimes I like the shop look.
I think a true shootout should be done with more complicated geometry than a simple pawn. What about small features? Overhangs etc. Even a benchy would have been a better test comparing the print quality between the two.
Think of this way, it won't really make a difference as the "motions" are the same and this is the point as these are both cartesian printers and if you set the same settings on both, you will get the same mechanical results (save for the lack of a second Z on the CR-10). The firmware will however make a difference and the pawn is a good example (I personally dislike Benchy as it reminds me of Barney the Dinosaurs and that crazy song enters my head :-) However the pawn is difficult as it does have a an overhang as well as a ball which comes to point. So the key thing I look for (a microscopically is the layers). So given this, a 24v -vs- 12 volt PS, dual Z's, lienner rods -vs- wheels, touch screens and so on, one can clearly see which is better.
I disagree. Hardware is different: Frames are different. Drive systems are different. Motors (and drivers) may be different. JGAurora doesn't appear to have a part cooler, unless it's hidden inside the frame. Firmware is different, as you mentioned. All of this can make a significant impact on the way that each printer prints different kinds of geometry. Overhangs.. small points... smooth curves... flat faces... drives between objects (check of stringing), etc.
But even if you disagree, why wouldn't you check multiple different models anyway??
nooottt quite true. otherwise the Anet E12 and Tronxy X3s would be equals to the CR-10 and they are not remotely close to that.
materials. QC. design and mechanicals play a large roll in "final quality" heck even the selection and position of the blower motor and the design of the blower exhaust port duct can have a huge impact on final print quality.
your not testing the "cartesian print mechanism" your testing "the whole system as a whole" and that can vary massively even from otherwise "similar" mechanical printers. go get an E12 or X3s and you will see what I mean really fast :-) so a lay person they are identical to the CR-10 until they print with them or try to use them.
the A5 is very nice. its not quite as clean (print quality) as my CR-10 but it is very close and most people would never tell the difference. I am very pleased with the A5 and so far its holding up over the long term very well.
LOL! (in a good way) In reality I have, as I have printed a ton on this machine and so in fact I have as its a TV show where they show 10 minutes of something because if they show you the three days it took for that 10 min, you would be board as have seen the other video of printing like ua-cam.com/video/n4vFIxV-dic/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/VQOZMoC7Oww/v-deo.html ? As a big part of these to showcase the abilities of the machine over hard objects and of course the CR-10 as well as any quality printer out there can so that is why I keep coming to this list "24v vs 12 volt PS, dual Z's, lienner rods vs wheels, touch screens and so on" as your going to buy car, both have 4 tires and run well (i.e. equal) yet one has a high audio systems and turbo (24v in this case) for the same money which makes say Hmmm, why am I even thinking of this other one? By the way good discussion :-)
@Nerys, if your mechanical systems are of the same design and "quality" what can the difference be? As Tevo Tarantula can do just as well as my CR-10. As yes I know some folks vex about part cooling fans which yes @twinturbostang the JG has one, how can they vary? (hint "quality")
You're the second reviewer I've seen mention that the stock firmware installed on the Aurora has a bug or two. So far we haven't added a configuration for this specific machine to the main Marlin project, but I'm sure we will soon. That should make it slightly easier for Joe Average to get hold of a stable firmware with better-tuned settings.
Hi and thanks for writing as I have now reflashed it with Marlin and I have mixed feelings as it fixes some things yet seems to have broke others. Since you know something about this I would like to ask a question, in the video did you see the archs/circles? The Creality was slightly better then the stock JG, however the Marlin build I flashed doesn't seem as good as the stock so I assuming it is the way the firmware handles arch motion? Thanks again for commenting!
If G2/G3 arcs are not as good as they should be, you may try disabling them in your slicer so that it just generates G1 moves instead. Depending on how old the stock firmware is, you may want to re-check various settings to make sure they're optimal. Start with lower acceleration and jerk and see if it improves the quality in any noticeable way. For better extrusion all-around, the LIN_ADVANCE feature comes highly-recommended. Marlin 1.1.9 will be out soon, and we've fixed a few issues, so you may want to wait for that. Or, grab the bugfix-1.1.x or bugfix-2.0.x version for a preview.
Many thanks! Will take a look at these!
Ok I give say in Cura how do you tell it just to generate G1 moves? If not Cura is another "free" slicer that can do this? Thanks again for this info!
Yes the JGAurora looks good, fantastic LCD display but it's not well built and soon starts to fall to bits including the so called Black Diamond bed coating falling off and then having to wait six weeks for a replacement to arrive only to discover they are sending out factory reject replacement parts.
Now the CR10 i purchased after making the mistake of going for the looks of the A5 JGaurora and marketing ploy is what you call a real work horse and CR-10 Mini just keeps going and going and if you search UA-cam then you will see that lots of other people have come to the same conclusion as me.
Sorry to hear as I have had mine for about a year now and its still going strong. I did place a sheet of knock off build tak on the bed as I want to print PETG and it can damage the glass. However other then that she has been a steady printer...
I think any enclosures would be difficult with the A5, as the power supply would be in the enclosure. Thats the only thing I can think of.
Yes, but as if your doing ABS, it needs to be vented. Have you seen my Air Quality Series?
Are you saying an eclosure for the A5 would be difficult?
Depends, you could a box out of maker rail and acrylic, yet you would need to vent but too you should also vent. As the one of the main reason to build would be to use ABS, however if watch my Air Quality series, ABS is nasty stuff and if you don't vent then you simply have higher localized release when you open the enclosure...
Great video!
thanks!
I liked the way you compared these two printers. My hate is for Gearbest. I have order two printers from them and they never shipped. Had to get my money back via PayPal on both 60 + days later.
Thanks for the complement on the review and sorry to hear you had issues with them...
I too am waiting for Gearbest to deliver my CR10, ordered and paid for on 16th Nov 2017. Our local carrier is STILL showing as waiting for the printer as per Gearbest's tracking number, but Gearbest say that I have to wait until 20th January 2018 before they can take any action.
To say that I am unhappy with their customer "service" is an understatement.
Warning, I would advise anyone looking for a printer to try the other suppliers before risking Gearbest.
Hey i found a page where you can track your order by Gearbest. It does not work all the times but maybe it helps. Put in your tracking number you get on your Order Site on GB.
www.faryaa.com/user/index/package-refer
I hope it helps.
Tiny Workshop, Big Ideas be careful they maybe getting you to go beyond the PayPal protection period, I'd start a claim with PayPal now !
NEVER use paypal to buy from CHINA (any chinese site gearbest banggood aliexpress etc.. etc..) ALWAYS use a good trusted credit card. no 60 day BS.
Did I doze off and just miss it (possible at this time of the morning) or did you skip the loss of power "Achilles Heel" that you said you'd mention at the end of the video? Good review, but looking forward to the follow-ups. More just curiosity, as I am building my Tronxy X5S now, and won't be buying anything new for a while. BTW - loved the $9.13 comment reply - good one - LOL.
Yes, I did cover it at the and with a video insert too and you missed it :-)) Sometimes it thinks it had a power failure when it didn't restarts at strange location on the Z-Axis and I show a video insert of it doing this. Its about 2/3rd the way in, kid of funny to watch!
I guess I must have had a little micro-nap there - LOL! That is strange.
Off topic, but is it possible to add the power-off operation to the Tronxy X5S?
Its at 25:42 also not sure what a "power off operation" is?
Oh, sorry. Like the "Loss of Power Recovery" this printer has.
Ah sorry not really as the Aurora does it via the MKS-TFT board as it tracks each line of GCode it sends to the MKS Gen L and when power fail the last line position is saved and when power is re-applied it simply starts from that point. So you have replace the electronics...
Dual Z motors in my opinion is not something I would consider a plus. With steppers I would consider that a negative. Having the dual steppers allows for the chance to get one motor out of sync. It keeps coming up in topics around the www. A single stepper with a close tolerance system connecting a second lead screw would be a more reliable option. There is no chance each side can get out of sync unless you have a mechanical failure. I have the dual Z upgrade for my CR-10 only because I bought it cheap. But I won't be installing it. I am instead going to use the parts in the kit to design a system to drive both sides with a single stepper motor. Great comparison. This printer looks very interesting. I will be watching this printer so I am looking forward to more videos on this machine.
Thanks for commenting! The one thing I can share with you from the experience of having owned dozens of printers and printed thousands of prints (I sell 3D prints on the side) is two Z's are far better than one. As you can see I only have one on my CR-10 and the reason for that is I only print "shorter" objects on so in this case it makes little difference and I am not concerned with the deminactional accuracy of the object as the "drag" of pulling the gantry up will be transferred to layer height even if the bed is trammed well (you have just me given the idea for a new video :-). You can see a more on this back over on the Tarnuala playlist where I did add a second Z because as the printer wore the drag increased. Also if your sticking with one, I do suggest this video: ua-cam.com/video/E57UyXqkVJA/v-deo.html as I highly recommend this stuff: amzn.to/2vYTjCS as about once a month a couple drops works wonders!
Thanks for the links. I have been using a silicone lubricant. But a dry lubricant will be better to keep dust from collecting. My design for the upgrade to drive both sides of the CR-10 will solve the issue by using dual lead screws for the -Z- axis. But both will be driven by the same stepper. I am curious, have you even had the dual Z steppers get out of sync on any of your printers? Because there have been quite a few discussions about this happening on Thingiverse, the CR-10 FB page, and other social media sites.
Nope on the "dual Z steppers get out of sync" as I have dual on the Tarantura, Tronxy, Wanhao and now the JGAurora and no issues. The only way I would see them getting out sync is a lack of current to drive one, the other or both.
That makes sense. I haven't looked into the actual install of the CR-10's dual Z upgrade so I am assuming the issue is with the duall Z steppers sharing the same signal from the board? With the CR-10 only being a 12v system is that part of the problem? Electronics are my weakness so I am only taking stabs at guessing why this happens with the CR-10.
Sorry, the boat is the common test. TRADITION!
Oh I think your trying to say Benchie? If so I am voting for a new tradition the CHEP Pawn :-)
DIY3DTECH.com I think that would be a fun community exercise. Have a poll on standardized print testing for the maker communities. It might be super useful to make the process of compiling the data or millions of test prints. Joking aside, the pawn is a good idea for conserving time and material, but it lacks overhangs and any real challenges for a 3d printer.. so yes, I was trying to say Benchie is better for benchmarking the abilities of 3d printers.
I agree with you as joking aside Benchie is supposed to test bridging (which isn't in the pawn) as well as fine elements like the stack also. I not sure if was purpose built for the task or not however I just find it a hokey and things like bridging (i.e. fan settings) and retraction is adjustable and what I looking for is what isn't adjustable like layering and circles, fine points, and movement. All of these the pawn does in a reasonable package :-)
I've been watching your videos for about a year and will continue to do so, I think you have a lot of interesting things to teach and share with us. I do think though that some of this video could be perceived as a bit incendiary, and that well-meaning viewers who simply disagree could feel like they're being swept into the "haters" category. May I suggest: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De-escalation
Many thanks for the comment! However to me a "hater" is a persons who's position is absolute and supported by insults. For me this is a hobby trying to help folks and I just don't have time for them. However I am interested in your opinions as to the portion(s) which "could be perceived as a bit incendiary". :-)
I hope you don't blow me off as a hater, but I see some flaws with your thinking. Joe Blow is going to get a lot more support from other CR-10 users than JGAurora A5 users for one. There are tons of mods/upgrades already available for the CR-10. 80mm height difference, while I tend to agree with you on this I still won't. Bigger is always better, to put it another way, it's better to have bigger and never need it vs not having it and needing it. I never print tchotchke's, but occasionally I do print things like small cyclones which are nearly 12" tall so the added height for me is better. As for appearance, who really cares what the printer looks like? Mazzariti's look great and run great, but you still get from point A to B if it's running so reliability and costs to maintain would be more important to me than looks. Granted, you don't want to show clients a printer with a rats nest of wires running everywhere over it but really the A5 next to the CR-10 looks as good as the other. I almost get the feeling that you're trying to push these rather than showing real benefits between them. I'm in the market for another printer but I'm still not sold on this one. I want something that offers me a printer that I can easily upgrade if wanted and most importantly offers more than what the CR-10 offers in all features which includes size of print area. Just my 2 cents worth.
LOL! I don't mind constructive conversation of differing points of view as this is what its all about as you are entitled to your opinion as I am mine. Haters are ones who feel their positions are absolutes and open with insults rather than logic to make their point (i.e. making their point invalid because it is only substantiated with their ability to insult). Anyway let me toss this back to you as believe the "flaw" in your thinking is [there] "are tons of mods/upgrades already available for the CR-10"? So your going to buy a new car and accept for it to work the way you need it to but you will have to mod it first? What about people don't have the want or ability to mod it and simply want to do 3rd prints? Isn't that the idea of buying a 3D printer? Did you watch my unboxing video and note at the start I made this position very clear as when I did the Tronxy x5s kit build (which I also think is better then the CR-10 but a kit) is many people wrote to me and said Joe I can't follow you here, i don't have the time. skill, or want to build or modify the printer and simply want to print out of the box. In fact I have one viewer that has about 100 CR-10's in a print farm and he was really the genesis for this printer/video series as he give two squirts about modifying the printer and in fact this is a major pain point for him as the value he creates is from printing not moding. So when you look at this, you are looking at it from the minority side of the fence as its clear there are far more people that want to print and go rather then "hey I want to build/mod a printer". See the CR-10 became popular for its build area to cost as it was the first to offer 300x300 for less then $500 usd so of course people jumped on it as I have said since the start 200x200 is too small to be practical. Also again your thinking is "flawed" about the JG Aurora community as there is a very strong one out there already (I a member of them) and people are creating some pretty cool firmware which I am testing now as well as firm support for newcomers and part of the reason I am doing what I am doing. As what people miss is when I create these video they become a contribution to that community also. As you will see on Monday I will take you inside of the "black box" and Friday I will show how to reflash it as well I have already shown how to use the Intelligent Bed Leveling and Filament loading. Just my 2 cent as change :-)
Verses vs Versus... and Versus wins! Unless it’s poetry. 🤔
Consider it poetic license 😎
JGAURORA A5 doesn't have wifi.....
Mine has a menu item and shows an SSID to connect to it...
Exact tester, always compares a comparative workpiece from the same material.
How can I compare two prints from different materials?
Never!
PLA is PLA even if you buy from the same manufacture, unless you buy expensive you will get different lot. On top of that I used the more expense filament in CR-10 as well as you might have noted the CR-10 was also highly modified and tuned whereas the JG Aurora was straight out of the box so this was tiled heavily toward the Creality, hey "again" out of the box the JG Aurora performed as well the creality. So let me ask this, if I would have hatch box in both what differences would you have expected to see?
First, great video comparison and I do believe the comparison is fair regardless of the upgrades done to the CR-10.
The CR-10 can print it's own upgrades; the Aurora can't really be upgraded period
The CR-10 can print it's own replacement parts; the Aurora.. highly doubtful as nothing on it seems to be replaceable by printed parts.
The CR-10's functionality can be extended and modified at will; the Aurora.. it is what it is and will always be that way ?
The CR-10 can be made bigger; the Aurora.. WAY too much trouble assuming it is even possible.
The CR-10 uses easy to make/off the shelf parts; the Aurora.. not so much.
The CR-10 is more school setting friendly for most if not all of the above reasons
So, is business chic worth sacrificing the above ? You decide.
I do NOT own a CR-10, I will NEVER own a CR-10 or any variant of it. Just playing devil's advocate :)
Love the devil's advocate as it makes for great discussion! However you made my exact point as for 3d printing to go mainstream people only want to "print", they don't want to upgrade or print parts for it, they simply want to "print" and want it in a form factor that matches their business (application) need. Read some of the comments when I built the Tronxy x5s as that is also far better then the Crealty but I don't think it's Creality killer as its a kit and people want turn key. As not sure how old you are but back in the early days of computers there were tons of computer swap meets to sell parts as the field was dominated by the geeks. However those day are gone for the most part and everything is mainstream and you don't see any computer swap meets anymore. Same will happen here is my point :-)
While the swap meets are gone the market for enthusiast is far from gone and its a much bigger market than the shelf computers imo. I'm a child of the technological era being 32 myself and i dont see the tinkerer market side of fdm printer ever dieing down but we probably will see a rise in print ready solutions. What makes me say this is if you search around youtube, you will find the previous generation building their own cnc mills out of maker extrusions etc so even if the print ready printers do grow in market share i dont think it will ever overtake the tinkerer side of things nor do i think there will be vastly more people who want out of the box print ready solutions; at least not the home user as 3D printers arent exactly a justifiable functional piece of equipment around the house so they already draw in tinkerers by their very nature. This is just my opinion and view on the matter however. Keep up the great work!
See that's the thing "3D printers aren't exactly a justifiable functional piece of equipment around the house" however they are for business as I do a lot in Oil & Gas and the interest 3D printing there alone eclipse all the "tinkerers" out there and they simply want to "print" not modify the printer, reflash firmware or any thing like that as their business is running on that part being created. Also just like the computer market, the home 3D printer market will wain off into the sun set. About 10 year back I was part of the early CNC movement and while still around it isn't what it once was. Also thanks for the kind comment and the discussion! I enjoyed it :-)
I see your business use of 3D printers and raise you that any business serious about prototyping and/or parts production using 3D printers isn't going to be buying the JGAurora and probably nothing within that price bracket. Any business which has grown to even remotely rely on 3D printers is probably going to go after something more more reliable than the JGArurora with much better after sales support. "Also just like the computer market, the home 3D printer market will wain off into the sun set." that would be your opinion on that matter and if we were to ask the owners of any computer hardware manufacturer, I'm fairly confident that they would strongly disagree with you; both in the consumer market and in the enterprise market. "however they are for business as I do a lot in Oil & Gas and the interest 3D printing there alone eclipse all the "tinkerers" out there" elicpse the home user interest, maybe, in sales, probably; but only due to costs of industrial 3D printer units, in units sold, highly unlikely :) Edit: Anyways, the point of it is, could consumer interest in 3D printer wain off into the sunset ? it's certainly not impossible but I highly doubt it..
You should have used the same filament on both printers. No real justifiable reason not to.
Because actually yes as want to people see it totally out of the box as this is what they will get especially as a novice entering into the 3d printing world. Really from a printing stand point the test is a bit bogus as the CR-10 is highly modified and this is what I find comical as one looks at it the totally feature by feature as well as quality there isn't a fair comparison between the two be had. However let me ask you this, if I did us the same filament, what do you think would have turn out differently?
In the scene where you show the quality between the two pieces, it's hard to tell whether I was seeing the difference in light reflecting off two different colors or the difference in print quality. In other words, it would have been easier to see the print quality difference. As far as the rest of your comparison I felt you were very up front about the apples and oranges aspect of the test so in the regard you did very well.
Many thanks as that is why I desaturated the image the help with that. Did you see the resource page, it has a high res image: diy3dtech.com/gearbest-jgaurora-a5-resource-page/
Every other reviewer I've watched has said the A5 SAYS it has Wi-Fi but in reality does not. Sorta lost interest at this point in the video.
Okay thats great as it advertise an SSID
Great video. Uh, who's Chuck? Asking for "a friend"
CHEP Chuck Hellebuyck a fellow Michigander who runs a 3d printing channel too and an all around nice guy :-)
DIY3DTECH.com Thanks. I'll check him out. I mean, my "friend" will check him out; obviously. ;)
Cr10 meets your out of the box. Nothing needed and perfect circles. Your final comments contradict.
?? for clarity, my CR-10 is highly moded and optimized and far better then out of the box so if I would have performed a pure out of the box on both, the CR-10 would have been creamed! As the base of the CR-10 is good idea but just working the sag out took some time then there was bed heat issue and so on. The JG Aurora was out of the cold. What I point out in the end is the handling of the firmware of the archs as if you look under a microscope the archs are slightly better. However you have look under a microscope to see the difference and the other feature way out way this nit (which can be adjusted in firmware) so I am sure where your read contradiction? Thanks for commenting!
Excellent review. However, I wouldn’t buy either of them. Neither of them have thermal overrun protection and both of them have poor quality wiring. Creality Enders have literally burned down people’s homes. When Chinese printers get UL certification I might buy one. I’m sticking to printers made in Europe or the USA.
How do you know they don't have thermal runaway protection? This typically a firmware thing and both run forked versions of open source so I would be surprised it not to be there....
DIY3DTECH.com First of all thanks for producing your videos. I find them informative and well produced. As to the issue however, few Creality models have thermal runaway protection & generally use substandard components. Creality just recently advertises an Ender and a CR10 version with a UL approved power source. That reduces the electrocution/fire hazard; but the UL approval doesn’t apply to the rest of the wiring in the printer. I’m not picking on Creality. Since they’re one of the best selling printers, I consider them to be a good example of the state-of-the-art of Chinese 3d printer manufacturing. It would be interesting to have an electrician or electronics technician examine some of the printers from China to characterize their pros/cons. I want to like the printers being produced in China because of their cost/benefit ratio; but it appears to me that Chinese 3d printer manufacturers cut too many corners.
Okay but that still doesn't answer the thermal over run protection, as that is all in firmware and you text this by disconnecting the thermocouple and the hot end should (if it has ) stop heating. As the firmware looks for a signal and there if there isn't one it shuts off power to the hot end. Also if you look at the JG Aura playlist you will see I did several rather popular videos on the electrics of this machine as it got a bad wrap that I debunked. While I am not trying to contest your general opinion as that is yours, I have not found horrible or highly risky. However as a PSA, I would not allow one to run unattended while I was away from the house and two even over nigh one has to use care as did a video on this where I use wireless fire alarms placed near the print so the first sign of trouble I am alerted :-)
Your aesthetic is kludgey.
Okay if you say so 😉
Really? LOL! Really. Period.
Yes really Period....
Hey DIY3DTECH! - Actually, I kinda agree with you. That for a 1st time "Average Joe User" buying an JG A5 . Yet, as you pointed out (thus far) upgrades/mods are a bit (deal killer for me) limited.
And I recently (just a few days ago) purchased an Ender-2 from GearBest. Unbelievable, right? Me buying from GearBest. Anyways, they delivered it on-time, without any "we need more $ for shipping" after-the-sale, and that is unbelievable from my experiences. [Caveat: I haven't put it together yet, so I dunno....]
Thx again.
Professional lay people "do not mod" machines so from that POV the moddability of lack of on the A5 is not only irrelevant but a downfall of the CR-10 for enthusiasts the CR-10 is kind of course :-) I also get slightly higher quality prints from my CR-10 than I do the A5 (noise) but its very very subtle.
You're a grown man, I assume, not a Kardashian, you dont have haters... there's a lot of proteome that disagree with you, so you try to invalidate their opinions by calling them haters...
Grow up
Erik, see you were nice and saying that is not nice as what it means is your logical argument has broken down. Lets see I just looked and you have zero subscribers so that tells me you lack an understanding of what it means to produce content and stand up to the "haters" as yes they are haters as I don't accept arguments based upon "insult". Hopefully this is good example for you to learn from as I did not have degrade myself by telling you to "grow up" as you just did to me. As you don't know me, you don't produce content, but simply pass judgment based upon your own opinions without regard for others. That's sad my friend, very sad...
Erik again argument failed nasty words said. If you have to insult someone to make it a point, it invalidates your argument what so hard about that?
I'm surprised you didn't just delete the comment
Yet again, you show what a fragile clown you are.
See, I didn't even use a super scary bad word this time, hope your delicate sensibilities haves recovered.