PRECISION the easy way, making CNC parts too big for a hobby mill
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- With some metalized epoxy tricks we add precision to the BIG rough casting we made in this video: • Al Metal Casting: Tips... The part is for the CNC's Z-axis and is too long for our little hobby milling machine. If you don't have a mill and want to make precise parts this video could be useful.
See the CNC machine come together and tested on metals: • Can we DIY an Industri...
Making the unorthodox gantry video: • Experiments in Gantry ...
Casting and making the z-axis video: • Bigger castings, melti...
23 metal casting tips (which is also the video where we make the large z axis spindle plate). • Al Metal Casting: Tips...
Still more, playlist on the CNC: • The Big CNC Machine Build
If you would like to have a play with the 3D model of this machine you can get it if you buy us a coffee here: ko-fi.com/flow...
Metalized epoxy guide: ko-fi.com/s/bb...
Shout us a coffee on Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/flow...
The spindle motor in the video is a 240V single phase Jianken JGL-100mm 3.2kw 24000rpm BT30 ATC. It has ceramic bearings and thus far seems very very nice. We chose a 4 pole one, which has somewhat more torque at lower rpm than the 2 pole, but requires an 800Hz VFD. We will do a whole video on the spindle in the future. You can find them here: jianken.en.ali... and if you do buy from them, message them and mention 'Flowering Elbow' to get yourself a discount!
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I enjoy every episode you make. I equally love how you are a good storyteller, how you never choose the the easy way, and how you strive for more perfection than you actually need.
I want you as my neighbor. :D
very happy you went with steel powder epoxy mate, when I see other people just do regular leveling with clear epoxy, I get a headache. also beautiful z axis and your castings looking much better than last time. Well done.
I found your Blog over 10 years ago.
I loved it, ihave been with you dampenning your bandsaw.
I absolutley loved your Workshop oven Projekt.
And your Pflaster firetest are unforgotten.
And know you are Not Just back but your still at it.
Going strong doing the things your way.
I Really apreciate your mindset.
Thank you very much for sharing your way of exploring the possibiltys of life.
My Best whishes to you From the northgerman woodland
Wow, thanks, really appreciate that, had forgotten about half of those, and the blog has been very sporadic over the years. Really humbled to think you've found some of it useful over the years. Stay in touch, Bongo
It's awesome how your wife is so supportive of your shenanigans.
Right on Bob!
Yes .. that's close to be the best part of the story.
Best from Brasil.
Super cool, well done, looking forward to the continuation :-)
Hey Peter, great, thanks! More to come...
Beautiful work my friend.
Thank you so much 😀
Your videos are always immensely inspiring
I appreciate that thank you :D
Very impressive!
Thank you! Cheers!
love your work!
waiting for more
Hey Joas, thanks for watching - coming soon...
I was always told the dti gauge plunger should be perpendicular to the workpiece for an accurate reading - something to do with Pythagoras ??
To plane aluminium flat you need to make the knives flush with the outfeed table rather than slightly proud as for wood.
Thanks for the tip. After investigating a lot I found the infeed table was a bit twisted :( hence the slight non-flatness of the alloy casting.
Salut I'm in the process of decision , if I transform my router like yours . I have a 3 meter x 40 mm ball screw and the whipping is not very pleasant. My ball screw are 62 mm exterior diameter and it making bearing very expensive. But your seam to work well so I'm thinking ...
If they are 62mm dia. I expect the speed of rotation allowed for the ballnut is not terribly high, so perhaps not the best application of the rotating nut...? Have you looked at the spring-loaded plastic staberliser-type devices that help with whip?
@@FloweringElbow4SuperNerds Thanks , I never hear about plastic stabilization ? The nut as 62 but the screw is a 40mm dia.
@@alainroy400 I'm talking about something a bit like this - ua-cam.com/video/NWB6FAJCPhA/v-deo.html&ab_channel=PaulWysocki Hope that helps ;)
@@FloweringElbow4SuperNerds plastic stabilator where to find?
I suspect it would need fabricobbling up oneself...
Why not use a proper compound for replication?
It's cheap and it won't creep to any meaningful degree.
Your mixture most probably will creep a lot, that's rather hard to avoid and has nothing to do with It's compressive strength like many seem to think btw.
Hi there Heinz, thanks for watching. I have to disagree on the cost of ready mixed ones. They are convenient, I must say, but you don't have the ability to make up different viscosities (that can be injected with a syringe for example). The other thing is that you can't make a scratch coat, which is better at bonding to the fixed surface.
I haven't researched enough on the creep front to comment, but I don't honestly expect to see any significant creep on the stiff metalized epoxy mixes... People/companies make whole machine frames out of epoxy granite, that has a similar aggregate: epoxy ratio... It's an interesting subject, will have to do more research.
@@FloweringElbow4SuperNerds I have used west 105 + 206 + iron powder and was also able to copy a surface in sub-micron precision. Resulting in 2um flatness on a 20x20cm square
@@BuildItAnyway Impressive!