I ran a milk fat separator in a dairy plant for a number of years, the centrifuge didn't even cross my mind to filter fuel! Ours was to pull fat to make skim milk, and some cream was added back in to make 1%. I am thoroughly impressed by your testing, nice to see options for everyone!
That might be a nice thing to include in your practices. If you have really clean oil like you have you may not need to run multiple passes. So maybe before running each tote you run a small test batch. That would be something I would add to my setup when I get it going. That way you know if it's clean or dirty. Maybe you find a dirty batch that fills a fuge up in half a batch. This whole thing and what your doing for the community is fascinating and amazing. Thank you for doing this.
Great test. Glad to see you noticed that the oil from your tote was that clean. Looking forward to the next test video. I have a bunch of waste oil and want to start using it, this test and the next are going to be the deciding factor on if I pull the trigger.. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Definitely looking forward to further bag testing. I'm in my first year of this and have a nested bag setup (25/10/5/1) atop a drum, with a 5 gal bucket slowly feeding them. I pump "settled" w80 to the bucket and it takes several minutes to drain down. I started off manually pumping into the bags, but that took forever and you had to stand there the whole time, as you saw - doing 30 gallons took about 40 minutes of standing there and throttling a pump. Now I have the homer bucket with spigot rigged up and my time invested is essentially nothing (just take a minute to pump the bucket full and it will do its magic). Dewatering, however, is something I have yet to really master. Since I blend first, I can't really heat. Perhaps I will switch from RUG to kerosene and try it. Your videos, as always, are great.
Thanks for watching. I wonder if you can heat prior to mixing... I've been talking to an outfit that specializes in waster removal... maybe something will come of it. We'll see.
Try this, "m67 military immersion heater". The military used this for heating water for baths, and field kitchens in WW2 and in Vietnam. Now some people are using these for de-watering oil in 55gal. drums. Google it, there are videos. I hope you find this informative. I made 2 of them.
The way I do it, is to use 2 nested 6 inch bag filters 25 inside a 1 micro bag. I fill my tank with 50 gallons. Then a I have a 2 nylon stockings nested filled with crystal kitty litter tie a knot in the doubled up nylons put a string on it and lower it in the bottom of the tank.I give credit to Alex poleks channel for the kitty litter. Water settles to the bottom is absorbed in the litter I pull out the nylons filled with swollen crystals oil is now mostly dewatered. Then turn on heater circulate the oil tell reaches 220 which dewaters what might be left then run the 50 gallon for 10 hours with my blue 55 gallon centrifuge. I run the system at 80 psi which roughly translate to about 8k rpm’s. Let the system cool down a lil pump in to truck. Winter I cut with #2, 40 gallons oil, 10 gallons #2. The oil is much thinner and very slippery when done. Trucks injection pump runs quite doesn’t blow smoke. Change fuel filter regularly and flush every 4 tanks with straight #2. Doing it since 2013. I thank my buddy Joel for turning me on to black diesel.
The kitty litter idea seems plausible for sure. There are desiccant beads you can get that do the same thing but I've never messed with them. Up until getting the direct drive, I never worried about moisture. Sounds like you've got a solid setup going. Keep at it bud! Thanks again for watching.
Those little horrible freight 12v diesel pumps work pretty well for oil if you need a small way to transfer without too much of an investment. I had one that lasted years.
The point wasn't to add it to my system. I already have a filter after my centrifuge. The point is to show what a bag filter will miss which I can't really show by plumbing it that way. Can't see any material at all in the bag filter currently after multiple passes of oil through it. It is definitely wise to have a filter after the centrifuge for contamination happening after the centrifuge. I run every batch through the centrifuge twice now and have a particulate filter after my transfer pump on the finish drum. You can see that whole setup in my "Shed Replumb" video. Thanks for watching!
I have used waste veg oil. I do whenever I can get it. I am concerned about coking, and want to run wmo. I am really surprised how well the bag filter did. I really want to see a cartridge filter vs centrifuge test. Thank you!!
I'll be doing that test sooner or later. I've got cartridges (whole house water filter type) but don't have a housing for them anymore. We'll see if I can find something soon.
@@NotSoGrandGarage small electric pump should work to cycle it , I found this on amazon: Groz 115V AC Heavy Duty High Flow Electric Oil Drum Transfer Pump | Self Priming | 8 GPM Flow Rate | Built-In 2-inch Bung Adaptor | 55 Gallon Drum Pump (45555)
@@NotSoGrandGarage also check a video titled: "amazing filter demonstration - save your engine" uploaded by "mightymicron" something setup like this would be interesting to see with the Frantz system
I'll give them a look. The only issue I see is the Franz filter is setup as a bypass... or designed to. Dead heading a pump into that setup will probably kill the pump pretty quick but we'll see.
Be nice to have a great fuge like this! Budget doin great tho with an old 40 gal steel water pressure tank under 25hg vacuum, sucking WVO through cheap synthetic 1 micron water filter. Let it suck out of a jug as long as she can - no pump to fail. When the filter clogs, close valves and run back pressure with a compressor into waste bucket, do it again. Freeze the oil first to remove water or do it up north this time of year. Oil comes out clean and clear. Run 100% WVO all through winter, 7.3 idi 2 tank setup. Start and stop on diesel unless I’m sure to start again within an hour. Like ur setup tho. Maybe someday! “We all gotta learn from y’all.”
@user-ul2hh3or3l long term? Water and wear from particulate that the filters didn't catch. When I first switched to a centrifuge (pressure driven unit), I ran some of the filtered oil that was filtered to "5 micron"... there was visible metal left in the rotor. 8 or so years later... I went with this setup and then found how much water my old system was leaving behind. I'd never used heat up until this point and I was surprised to say the least.
don't mess with filter bags. It's just messy. What I did I used a series of 10 inch water filters with paper filter elements down to 0,2 Micron absolut a drum, a nozzle and a pump a shop would use to pump engine oil from a drum to the engine. Even had a meter on the nozzle so I'd know how much I can pump. Was a great set up. Didn't have the space for a centrifuge. Too noisy also for the neighbours
Sounds similar to one of my early setups. Gravity fed through multiple 10" canisters. It worked ok but then I ran some of my filtered oil through my first pressure driven centrifuge and found metal in the bowl. That turned me off to filters. Then when I got the direct drive with heat.. (I'd never used heat before)... I was amazed at how much water I was missing in each batch.
@@NotSoGrandGarage your right I used didn't have the possibility to run a centrifuge. Today I run on 70% Ethanol and 30% water or desinfection that is overstock from CoVid madness orders. No work needed so that is what I'm currently sticking to
can synthetic waste motor oil also be used? A friends garage will give me his used oil by I know it'll have synthetic oil mixed in with conventional oil
I used nothing but a 1 micron bag filter for several years, but I'm in the process of building a centrifuge. My post filter tank accumulated a pretty thick layer of sludge that the centrifuge will likely remove. I don't know for sure that the sludge is a problem for the engine, but I'll feel better if I can remove it.
As did I... then a pressure driven unit for 6 or so years... now a direct drive. The difference between the steps is mind blowing as far as what is removed.
@@NotSoGrandGarage BTW, thank you for the testing you've done and all the info you've given. I found your channel and watched a few videos, and commented on a few, and forgot to thank you. I've learned a few things from you, and you've reinforced some things that others talk about. There seem to be very few people that are successfully using WMO long term and giving information about it. I was semi-successful in using it for about 8 years, but in the end my 7.3 IDI was barely running. I'm now driving another one and it started showing signs of issues so I went back to just diesel and fortunately it cleared up. My biggest mistakes were using pure WMO and using it way too much. That first motor was already troubled when I got it, the van was close to being scrapped when I bought it, but if I'd done WMO properly it would have lasted much longer. It got me through a tough financial time where buying diesel would have made a significant impact, now I can afford to treat this one better.
@@DonziGT230 thanks for watching. With that said, pretty well all alternative forms of fuel can go wrong pretty easily so investing the time and money up front to do it right goes a LONG way. I'm now probably close to 14 years or so in the game. My IDI has drank thousands of gallons and I can tell a running difference in my process now compared to years ago.
I have of people in England some how using kitty litter to remove the red color from diesel fuel to sell as replacement taxed fuel.So if this is correct, we could use it to clean black diesel oil.
I know nothing about what your doing and about black diesel but I do find it very interesting for sure. I think because I love messing around in the garage and the fact that I own a diesel. Fascinating for sure. Just curious if you’ve known anyone who owns a say newer diesel (with emissions, DEF, etc) and running their own diesel fuel in their engine? ✌🏽
@@NotSoGrandGarage Yes this is what I’ve heard from another gentleman as well. My truck dreams of let’s just say “losing all its power restrictive devices and becoming a bit more free in terms of what fuel it can use to operate.” In the meantime I’ll stay tuned for more and try and accumulate as much info as I can on this subject. Thank you. ✌🏽
Nice test. The inside of the bowl looks like mine with the oil I'm using. Not much residue. Your attributing the heavy sledge you get in your other vids to moisture in the dirty oil?
@@NotSoGrandGarage good deal. Was wondering if I was missing something with my setup since I'm not getting the sludge. Thanks for the vids, keep it up!
back on 2008 i was buying bag filters on ebay from dudadiesel i think, they were 0.5 micron and around 8inch diameter that had a steel ring in the rim of the bag with a hanging strap built in. i got a truck load of apples for free so i hung a brand new 0.5 micron bag from the cabinet above the sink in the kitchen with the bag in a big coffee pot with the dispenser at the bottom. i used a juicer to juice the apples and poured my juice through the filter bag. i dispensed into clear jars and kept them in the fridge. 2 weeks later you could NOT see any sediment at all in the bottom!!! 0.5 micron is 1/2 the size of your 1 micron particle size. the centrifuge is always your best option. back when i was super into this, every so called expert advised to add some TCW3 2 cycle oil (the cheep stuff would do) for added lubricity for longer pump life! now days i run e85 in my vehicles, and burn the oil in a box of sawdust in the outside boiler.
I've bought a few things from Duda over the years... the FPHE in my mercedes came from them. I may look and see if they still offer those. 1 micron was just the most requested.
do you believe the centrifuge removes all the water? that would be my sticking point. removing the water would be more important to me than getting it super clean of other contaminates.
With heat, yes. Check out my first "multipass" video. The difference between batches is impressive. The first pass had a thick sludge that was water logged. The second pass ended up with no water in the bowl.
Agreed. My "small batch tests" are just that. Testing different methods of wmo filtration and blending to see what works best... but my actual setup that I make fuel with and my process has been shown several times in detail so go check out the playlist. Thanks for watching!
I've been watching some videos on this and I have access to 1000's of liters of oil in my area due to having to pay to get rid of it , problem is the oil will have brake fluid , brake clean , gear oil , maybe some varsol in it , between transmission shops and automotive shops I can get it from , is his something to be worried about? Or would it be ok ? Looking for feed back
@@NotSoGrandGarage when I go to these places to get the oil they have it in their waste oil bin that sits inside I would have to suck it out and put it in my own bin/container other back of my pickup, would it be just beneficial to just suck up the top half of the tank ? Also for tans fluid in my experience there can be alot of meatal in the oil should that be avoided all together? I appreciate your time and help and knowledge on this
As for pulling from shop tanks, I'd leave the last 12" or so. ATF is a good fuel source but your process needs to be able to handle the particulate found in it. What is your cleaning process?
@@NotSoGrandGarage as of right now I don't have a cleaning process I'm trying to figure out what road to go down with this , just trying to do the research for this endeavor, I really do appreciate your time and help with this , what would you recommend?
@@rodneyotto9164 if you are going to stick with it long term... go with a centrifuge from the start. It will save you time and money in the long run. I've got those available. If you just want to tinker, 1 micron or smaller bag filters.
Well... considering I was trying to show how the filter performed against a centrifuge... it would be hard to show that by centrfuging the oil first... now I do have a filter head on my transfer pump to catch any contamination that might happen after the oil has been centrifuged.
Hi again.. my method of making WMO fuel is 60% WMO 40% kerosene mixed together for about 2hours with a gear pump, then passed through a 5 micron filter then a 1 micron filter. After I leave it to sit for about 2 weeks. Please tell me what you think. Regards
@costasmarangos8117 depends on the filters you are using. I started out using filters.. then switched to a pressure driven centrifuge. I centrifuged some of my filtered oil and found metal in the bowl. I won't rely on filters anymore. Now I run the direct drive setup. Water is also an issue. Most filters can't remove water. If its working for you currently.... keep at it.. but we can always improve our processes.
I wouldn't. The additives get used and there's no way to verify viscosity. Now if it's a specialty oil and you aren't mixing it with anything, in theory you could. Depends on a lot of variables.
That is correct. Most have a b50 rating. Absolute rated filters are quite spendy and not easy to find. Yet another reason that I don't care for filters.
I ran a milk fat separator in a dairy plant for a number of years, the centrifuge didn't even cross my mind to filter fuel! Ours was to pull fat to make skim milk, and some cream was added back in to make 1%. I am thoroughly impressed by your testing, nice to see options for everyone!
Centrifuges have all sorts of uses! Thanks for watching!
That might be a nice thing to include in your practices. If you have really clean oil like you have you may not need to run multiple passes. So maybe before running each tote you run a small test batch. That would be something I would add to my setup when I get it going. That way you know if it's clean or dirty. Maybe you find a dirty batch that fills a fuge up in half a batch. This whole thing and what your doing for the community is fascinating and amazing. Thank you for doing this.
Not a bad idea. It worked out well for testing the locomotive oil... you'll see that Monday though. Thanks for watching!
Great test. Glad to see you noticed that the oil from your tote was that clean. Looking forward to the next test video. I have a bunch of waste oil and want to start using it, this test and the next are going to be the deciding factor on if I pull the trigger..
Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Thanks for watching. Part 2 of this goes live Monday morning
Great experiment. I cannot wait to see how all this turns out! Nobody on UA-cam is doing it! Gold info man.
Appreciate you watching. It's been fun
Thank you for posting this as I use a 1 micron aquarium filter on my atf
No problem. Part 2 goes live Monday. Thanks for watching bud.
Another interesting video, definitely appreciate all you do to educate us just getting started in this venture.
It's quite a bit of fun. Lol. Messy at times.. and frustrating.. but fun.
Definitely looking forward to further bag testing. I'm in my first year of this and have a nested bag setup (25/10/5/1) atop a drum, with a 5 gal bucket slowly feeding them. I pump "settled" w80 to the bucket and it takes several minutes to drain down. I started off manually pumping into the bags, but that took forever and you had to stand there the whole time, as you saw - doing 30 gallons took about 40 minutes of standing there and throttling a pump. Now I have the homer bucket with spigot rigged up and my time invested is essentially nothing (just take a minute to pump the bucket full and it will do its magic).
Dewatering, however, is something I have yet to really master. Since I blend first, I can't really heat. Perhaps I will switch from RUG to kerosene and try it.
Your videos, as always, are great.
Thanks for watching. I wonder if you can heat prior to mixing...
I've been talking to an outfit that specializes in waster removal... maybe something will come of it. We'll see.
Try this, "m67 military immersion heater". The military used this for heating water for baths, and field kitchens in WW2 and in Vietnam. Now some people are using these for de-watering oil in 55gal. drums. Google it, there are videos. I hope you find this informative. I made 2 of them.
what is rug?
@@freddyg9026 Regular Unleaded Gasoline
The way I do it, is to use 2 nested 6 inch bag filters 25 inside a 1 micro bag. I fill my tank with 50 gallons. Then a I have a 2 nylon stockings nested filled with crystal kitty litter tie a knot in the doubled up nylons put a string on it and lower it in the bottom of the tank.I give credit to Alex poleks channel for the kitty litter. Water settles to the bottom is absorbed in the litter I pull out the nylons filled with swollen crystals oil is now mostly dewatered. Then turn on heater circulate the oil tell reaches 220 which dewaters what might be left then run the 50 gallon for 10 hours with my blue 55 gallon centrifuge. I run the system at 80 psi which roughly translate to about 8k rpm’s. Let the system cool down a lil pump in to truck. Winter I cut with #2, 40 gallons oil, 10 gallons #2. The oil is much thinner and very slippery when done. Trucks injection pump runs quite doesn’t blow smoke. Change fuel filter regularly and flush every 4 tanks with straight #2. Doing it since 2013. I thank my buddy Joel for turning me on to black diesel.
The kitty litter idea seems plausible for sure. There are desiccant beads you can get that do the same thing but I've never messed with them. Up until getting the direct drive, I never worried about moisture. Sounds like you've got a solid setup going. Keep at it bud! Thanks again for watching.
Those little horrible freight 12v diesel pumps work pretty well for oil if you need a small way to transfer without too much of an investment. I had one that lasted years.
Might give them a look. Thanks
I would reverse this. Centrifuge first, 1 micron filter post-run. Catches any processing particulates missed by the centrifuge, which can happen.
The point wasn't to add it to my system. I already have a filter after my centrifuge. The point is to show what a bag filter will miss which I can't really show by plumbing it that way. Can't see any material at all in the bag filter currently after multiple passes of oil through it.
It is definitely wise to have a filter after the centrifuge for contamination happening after the centrifuge. I run every batch through the centrifuge twice now and have a particulate filter after my transfer pump on the finish drum.
You can see that whole setup in my "Shed Replumb" video.
Thanks for watching!
@@NotSoGrandGarage all good : )
I have used waste veg oil. I do whenever I can get it. I am concerned about coking, and want to run wmo. I am really surprised how well the bag filter did. I really want to see a cartridge filter vs centrifuge test. Thank you!!
I'll be doing that test sooner or later. I've got cartridges (whole house water filter type) but don't have a housing for them anymore. We'll see if I can find something soon.
Very awesome!!! Can't wait to see the next part!!!
It answered some questions. Part 2 goes live Monday
Anyone else got sweaty hands, seeing the filled filterbag just hanging on that wire 😅
I was waiting for the drop 😂
Lol... I put a fair amount of weight on it prior to dumping oil in it. Held surprisingly well. Figured I'd make a bigger mess than I did.
SOOPER SWEDDY hands!😬😆
nope... he knows what he's doing I'd say. plus I wasn't there so I can't make a fare assignment
I would really like to see you test the Frantz toilet paper roll filtration system.
I've got 2 sitting here... not sure how I'd do it though. Let me do some digging.
@@NotSoGrandGarage small electric pump should work to cycle it , I found this on amazon: Groz 115V AC Heavy Duty High Flow Electric Oil Drum Transfer Pump | Self Priming | 8 GPM Flow Rate | Built-In 2-inch Bung Adaptor | 55 Gallon Drum Pump (45555)
@@NotSoGrandGarage also check a video titled: "amazing filter demonstration - save your engine" uploaded by "mightymicron" something setup like this would be interesting to see with the Frantz system
I'll give them a look. The only issue I see is the Franz filter is setup as a bypass... or designed to. Dead heading a pump into that setup will probably kill the pump pretty quick but we'll see.
Happy New Year Bud!!!! Keep'em comin!!!!!
Working on it! Happy New year to you too!
I appreciate the content man.
Glad it's helpful. Appreciate you watching!
Be nice to have a great fuge like this! Budget doin great tho with an old 40 gal steel water pressure tank under 25hg vacuum, sucking WVO through cheap synthetic 1 micron water filter. Let it suck out of a jug as long as she can - no pump to fail. When the filter clogs, close valves and run back pressure with a compressor into waste bucket, do it again. Freeze the oil first to remove water or do it up north this time of year. Oil comes out clean and clear. Run 100% WVO all through winter, 7.3 idi 2 tank setup. Start and stop on diesel unless I’m sure to start again within an hour. Like ur setup tho. Maybe someday!
“We all gotta learn from y’all.”
If it works... it works! It took over 8 years for me to get to this point... I started with while house water filters and gravity. Thanks for watching
If ya had kept on with the filters, what do you think would have gone wrong?
@user-ul2hh3or3l long term? Water and wear from particulate that the filters didn't catch. When I first switched to a centrifuge (pressure driven unit), I ran some of the filtered oil that was filtered to "5 micron"... there was visible metal left in the rotor.
8 or so years later... I went with this setup and then found how much water my old system was leaving behind. I'd never used heat up until this point and I was surprised to say the least.
When you freeze the oil will the ice float to the top or still remain under the oil?
Thanks buddy for all you share! God bless you and yours. Oh as the bags fill up with junk they flow slower and it seems to be even cleaner???
I'd say it would as the filter media fills up, there's less room for particulate to pass through it... until it plugs solid that is.
don't mess with filter bags. It's just messy.
What I did I used a series of 10 inch water filters with paper filter elements down to 0,2 Micron absolut a drum, a nozzle and a pump a shop would use to pump engine oil from a drum to the engine. Even had a meter on the nozzle so I'd know how much I can pump.
Was a great set up. Didn't have the space for a centrifuge. Too noisy also for the neighbours
Sounds similar to one of my early setups. Gravity fed through multiple 10" canisters. It worked ok but then I ran some of my filtered oil through my first pressure driven centrifuge and found metal in the bowl. That turned me off to filters. Then when I got the direct drive with heat.. (I'd never used heat before)... I was amazed at how much water I was missing in each batch.
@@NotSoGrandGarage your right I used didn't have the possibility to run a centrifuge. Today I run on 70% Ethanol and 30% water or desinfection that is overstock from CoVid madness orders. No work needed so that is what I'm currently sticking to
Great video man am staring my journey on this tire of the $6.50 a gallon in the gas station 😓thanks
Appreciate you watching. It's a fun hobby and with prices being so stupid here lately, it's worth while.
@@NotSoGrandGarage 👍🏻
Great video man!!! Can you share what centrifuge do you use?
Here you go. ua-cam.com/video/JVf-w9TNI-A/v-deo.html Can order them now from www.notsograndgarage.com
Thanks!
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching and supporting
can synthetic waste motor oil also be used? A friends garage will give me his used oil by I know it'll have synthetic oil mixed in with conventional oil
I've not had any issues. I mix all my oil in my bulk tanks.
I used nothing but a 1 micron bag filter for several years, but I'm in the process of building a centrifuge. My post filter tank accumulated a pretty thick layer of sludge that the centrifuge will likely remove. I don't know for sure that the sludge is a problem for the engine, but I'll feel better if I can remove it.
As did I... then a pressure driven unit for 6 or so years... now a direct drive. The difference between the steps is mind blowing as far as what is removed.
@@NotSoGrandGarage BTW, thank you for the testing you've done and all the info you've given. I found your channel and watched a few videos, and commented on a few, and forgot to thank you. I've learned a few things from you, and you've reinforced some things that others talk about. There seem to be very few people that are successfully using WMO long term and giving information about it.
I was semi-successful in using it for about 8 years, but in the end my 7.3 IDI was barely running. I'm now driving another one and it started showing signs of issues so I went back to just diesel and fortunately it cleared up. My biggest mistakes were using pure WMO and using it way too much. That first motor was already troubled when I got it, the van was close to being scrapped when I bought it, but if I'd done WMO properly it would have lasted much longer. It got me through a tough financial time where buying diesel would have made a significant impact, now I can afford to treat this one better.
@@DonziGT230 thanks for watching. With that said, pretty well all alternative forms of fuel can go wrong pretty easily so investing the time and money up front to do it right goes a LONG way. I'm now probably close to 14 years or so in the game. My IDI has drank thousands of gallons and I can tell a running difference in my process now compared to years ago.
I have of people in England some how using kitty litter to remove the red color from diesel fuel to sell as replacement taxed fuel.So if this is correct, we could use it to clean black diesel oil.
It's possible. I'm going to be testing all sorts of things in future "small batch tests"... and this will be covered along with fine wood shavings.
@@NotSoGrandGarage perhaps fine sawdust would work.
I like your cenertfuge set up!
@@susanvaughn741 thanks. I'm going to test both at some point when time allows
I know nothing about what your doing and about black diesel but I do find it very interesting for sure.
I think because I love messing around in the garage and the fact that I own a diesel.
Fascinating for sure. Just curious if you’ve known anyone who owns a say newer diesel (with emissions, DEF, etc) and running their own diesel fuel in their engine?
✌🏽
Newer diesel yes... but they were deleted. I wouldn't run alternative fuel in anything with the emissions systems still in tact. Maybe Biodiesel...
@@NotSoGrandGarage Yes this is what I’ve heard from another gentleman as well.
My truck dreams of let’s just say “losing all its power restrictive devices and becoming a bit more free in terms of what fuel it can use to operate.”
In the meantime I’ll stay tuned for more and try and accumulate as much info as I can on this subject.
Thank you.
✌🏽
@@KnuckleDragginDad no problem! Thanks for watching
can you do an oil analysis on the SLUDGE? what's actually in it? metal, water, detergents?
I probably can. Would be interesting to see. I haven't sent out my batch samples yet as funds are tight. I'll add that to the list though.
i think it would be interesting to know what the majority of the sludge is, and therefore if a bag or water filter would be able to remove it..
@@deankdx for sure. Hadn't thought about having it tested.
@@ElectronicMusicUnderground I'm thinking about sending a sample to Blackstone with the others. We'll see.
Nice test. The inside of the bowl looks like mine with the oil I'm using. Not much residue. Your attributing the heavy sledge you get in your other vids to moisture in the dirty oil?
For sure. The thin layer build up is heavy particulate. The thick goopy stuff comes from moisture.
@@NotSoGrandGarage good deal. Was wondering if I was missing something with my setup since I'm not getting the sludge. Thanks for the vids, keep it up!
back on 2008 i was buying bag filters on ebay from dudadiesel i think, they were 0.5 micron and around 8inch diameter that had a steel ring in the rim of the bag with a hanging strap built in.
i got a truck load of apples for free so i hung a brand new 0.5 micron bag from the cabinet above the sink in the kitchen with the bag in a big coffee pot with the dispenser at the bottom. i used a juicer to juice the apples and poured my juice through the filter bag. i dispensed into clear jars and kept them in the fridge. 2 weeks later you could NOT see any sediment at all in the bottom!!!
0.5 micron is 1/2 the size of your 1 micron particle size. the centrifuge is always your best option. back when i was super into this, every so called expert advised to add some TCW3 2 cycle oil (the cheep stuff would do) for added lubricity for longer pump life!
now days i run e85 in my vehicles, and burn the oil in a box of sawdust in the outside boiler.
I've bought a few things from Duda over the years... the FPHE in my mercedes came from them. I may look and see if they still offer those. 1 micron was just the most requested.
do you believe the centrifuge removes all the water? that would be my sticking point. removing the water would be more important to me than getting it super clean of other contaminates.
With heat, yes. Check out my first "multipass" video. The difference between batches is impressive. The first pass had a thick sludge that was water logged. The second pass ended up with no water in the bowl.
I'm not sure how your setup works or what you are trying to accomplish. I'm going to have to see some of your other videos on this subject.
Agreed. My "small batch tests" are just that. Testing different methods of wmo filtration and blending to see what works best... but my actual setup that I make fuel with and my process has been shown several times in detail so go check out the playlist. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried amsoil bypass filters?
For processing oil? Nope. That would be a spendy test.
I've been watching some videos on this and I have access to 1000's of liters of oil in my area due to having to pay to get rid of it , problem is the oil will have brake fluid , brake clean , gear oil , maybe some varsol in it , between transmission shops and automotive shops I can get it from , is his something to be worried about? Or would it be ok ? Looking for feed back
Brake fluid would be a concern... just depends on how much is there. I'd avoid brake fluid as much as possible.
@@NotSoGrandGarage when I go to these places to get the oil they have it in their waste oil bin that sits inside I would have to suck it out and put it in my own bin/container other back of my pickup, would it be just beneficial to just suck up the top half of the tank ? Also for tans fluid in my experience there can be alot of meatal in the oil should that be avoided all together? I appreciate your time and help and knowledge on this
As for pulling from shop tanks, I'd leave the last 12" or so. ATF is a good fuel source but your process needs to be able to handle the particulate found in it. What is your cleaning process?
@@NotSoGrandGarage as of right now I don't have a cleaning process I'm trying to figure out what road to go down with this , just trying to do the research for this endeavor, I really do appreciate your time and help with this , what would you recommend?
@@rodneyotto9164 if you are going to stick with it long term... go with a centrifuge from the start. It will save you time and money in the long run. I've got those available. If you just want to tinker, 1 micron or smaller bag filters.
Great video.:)
Thanks for watching!
wouldn't it make more sense to centrifuge the oil first then filter it?
Well... considering I was trying to show how the filter performed against a centrifuge... it would be hard to show that by centrfuging the oil first... now I do have a filter head on my transfer pump to catch any contamination that might happen after the oil has been centrifuged.
Why don’t you thin it out and then pass through the filter bag??
Certainly could.... just wanted to show oil only. I don't typically use the filters.
Ok!! Note taken… excellent video by the way
Thanks!
Hi again.. my method of making WMO fuel is 60% WMO 40% kerosene mixed together for about 2hours with a gear pump, then passed through a 5 micron filter then a 1 micron filter. After I leave it to sit for about 2 weeks. Please tell me what you think.
Regards
@costasmarangos8117 depends on the filters you are using. I started out using filters.. then switched to a pressure driven centrifuge. I centrifuged some of my filtered oil and found metal in the bowl. I won't rely on filters anymore.
Now I run the direct drive setup.
Water is also an issue. Most filters can't remove water.
If its working for you currently.... keep at it.. but we can always improve our processes.
Can black diesel or cleaned oil be used as oil again?
I wouldn't. The additives get used and there's no way to verify viscosity. Now if it's a specialty oil and you aren't mixing it with anything, in theory you could. Depends on a lot of variables.
@@NotSoGrandGarage thank you
If you want an accurate scale don't move it place it zero it the second you move it it throws it off
I mean... we're not in a lab and we're not using precision instruments... it's just a visual but anywho...
Every filter has an efficiency rating.........most vehicle fuel/oil filters, are only 60% efficient at so many microns.
That is correct. Most have a b50 rating. Absolute rated filters are quite spendy and not easy to find. Yet another reason that I don't care for filters.