More likely speaking from are you a roofer so you're basing everything he's saying is Gospel on what the fact that what he has a UA-cam video news flash you don't need to be right to be on UA-cam
@@paulhenk8186 based on a licensed professional opinion, coming from someone who sees the damage from it being done the easy way, I confirm it's closer to 90 of repairs. I believe this comes from the fact that most roofers aren't masons, most masons aren't roofers, and the good masons don't seem to be the ones doing the repairs. Most use tar, which shrinks away and leaves a crack/gap, others use silicone, which doesn't fix the real issue, which is failed mortar or incorrectly installed/old flashing that has previously been nailed through and is pulling away. Also, another problem addressed in the video is not enough overlap and lack of proper ice and water shield application. in short, no cap.
Hopefully people will see what incompetent, corrupt handymen / contractors do. Unfortunately true craftsmanship today in 2023 is lacking. That patch job was unbelievable..... Thank you for sharing your knowledge and fixing the problems. God bless 🙏🎄
Chad, amazing how you take pride in your work. I am having my roof replace in a couple days. I am very nervous how they re-flash around my chimney. I am sure the new singles will look pretty but pretty doesn't keep water out. Workmanship and skill keeps water out.
This makes me happy to hear! I know most people won’t watch the entire videos. I like to think my videos are geared towards specific viewers, that’s why I don’t edit everything down to super short videos. Thanks for watching!
@@chadvaillancourt I watched the video of you putting a SS liner into a chimney for a wood stove, and I am assuming that the 2 boys there where your kids, and it is so funny to see how much they don’t know, when at that young age, you think you know everything, but they know very little, I could see how you are trying to teach them, my father would always say, “ Use your head, think, think of the next step”, but when your young you don’t have anything to draw from, no experience, so learn, you father is trying to teach you, you have an opportunity to learn from , take advantage of that opportunity. I have had people say to me you had and advantage, I didn’t have and advantage, I had an opportunity, and I took advantage of that opportunity, that is how you learn, right?, good for you, I can see that you are trying to teach them. Good for them, to have a father like you.
@@chadvaillancourt what does doing something like this cost ? I got a very similar issue and was told to just tar it , I can see exactly what you mean but it seems like this would be very pricey?
@michaelpayne8102 😆 I think it's safe to say that Paul hasn't written a complete sentence since August 1st, 1986. He's a "pro roofa," cut him some slack. 😉
Can’t believe you got Edward Norton to narrate this! Great information, too. In a just world, someone would pay a cameraman to follow you so your viewers could really see all the things your pointing out
This is definitely the highest of compliments! I bet Ed Norton doesn’t have to film himself, lol. Takes a lot of energy to film and edit myself, I wish I had a camera crew. Thanks for watching
That k you for your vids as a 15 year bet mason this needs to be out in the world I love your vids and absolutely right the mason never wants to do the roof and the roofers never touch the lead I do all of it and I’ve never had a leak from watching your videos so good stuff my man keep it up 😊😊👍👍
The ice and water shield will stay. In fact if installed correctly it will pull your mortar/ grout away from the brick. But ALL masonry requires primer. And should be rolled immediately after installation to insure a proper bond. But having said that the metal corner flashing is a good idea because the ice and water shield should have no voids or unbonded areas. It is extremely difficult to accomplish this in erratic corners.Most people do a half assed job installing graces sheet products. All seams should be rolled. Also all fishmouths and wrinkles should be rolled before installing the next sheet. As a roofer you can get away with skipping this because of the slope and shingling. But when it comes to vertical surfaces you need to follow these guidelines If your membrane pulls free cleanly or “ falls of the wall “ it is an inferior installation. ( in my world it is a failure) I routinely use grace self adhered sheet goods below grade and below sea level so I can’t rely on shingling. I also have Grace reps inspecting my installations to certify their guarantee. Having said all this, for someone that doesn’t install thousands of rolls of this and has probably never been under graces tech reps scrutiny ,you do a much better job than most. This comment is not meant as criticism. It fact it is clear you want to go the extra mile to do quality work. It is meant to give you a little more knowledge to do an even better job.
@ the primer is actually specific to each of the different Grace self adhered products. You have to roll it after sticking it to the wall in all areas and especially the seems. The purpose of rolling it is to eliminate all voids between the sheetgoods and the substrate. When you roll the seems there should be a definite line showing the exact edge of the sheet underneath. Zero air underneath. We roll the field with this type of roller www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwi__riQjNWJAxUDD60GHcq3CKQYABAQGgJwdg&co=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88a5BhDPARIsAFj595j8CgYfVlQ2nj9hJvAKqgmL4gbvJ9s3YUHo2uBx5o6kQ6XnCxiy1GEaAvKsEALw_wcB&sig=AOD64_2w56s06XMRPMSc3FSL3hPsigJ7QQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjK17OQjNWJAxU9MjQIHWn0AJ8Q5bgDKAB6BAgIECk&adurl= And detail the seems with this type of roller www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwjgleepjdWJAxUiIK0GHTb5BT0YABAYGgJwdg&co=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88a5BhDPARIsAFj595hqQ243sKTmJuaIEJQ0L7R7enrZLOrbavBM2PK_wIHqU6aP-fhMJFAaAuX5EALw_wcB&sig=AOD64_2pQWobSsVr-mreq3dF6tPzaU7b_A&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjYyOKpjdWJAxV6FTQIHUFIOBMQ5bgDKAB6BAgHEDc&adurl=
I’m a mason I would have tuck point the mortar before the scratch coat with grinder and dough bag but I’m learning a lot about flashing thanks for the video 🙌🙌
Thnks. Doing a re-dryin around a chimemy and couldnt for certainty remember the proper cuts for wrapping up and around obstacles in the feild... thank you.
💯 percent reclaim job. I hate mending stuff thats been mended. And sometimes I get criticized for the amount of time it takes me to do something but I'm not charging it for the time it takes me to do it well but I do make sure I charge for the time that it takes because I have to redo it
Thank you for being thorough. I was about to get flex seal but gonna start with better coverage. Anyway, I hope you are using a tripod for your camera now. Fast motion with camera mount on your head, literally made me so queasy I had to close my eyes.
Quite often people ask can you put new stuff over existing. This is good example what happens when you do it, it might look Ok but it doesn't work or eventually fails. I also ask for those who want new stuff over existing that "do you also take shower and put clean underpants over old ones?" 9:12 That grey underlayment Made in Finland. We used to to step flashing also 1970s today most common is to cover whole chimney with sheet metal. Meaning what you did with water shield we either use same felt what shingles are made of or on metal roof then with metal and a little bit higher what you put it, then counter it with whole chimney sheeting. But it also quite rare today that chimney is made from bricks most used is insulated steel chimney.
You need to check out how we flash a chimney in the UK with lead, no adhesive tar paper and a finished job that lasts for ever and classic looking,( no caulking in the brick joints).
I've just done a pair of chimneys in the Cotswolds and put a lead apron all the way through the stack six inches above the ridge line with a welded lead collar around the flue and then built the remainder of the chimney off the top of it. This was then dressed down all the way around over the lead soakers. There is no exposed brickwork below the apron, all leadwork. This stops everything coming in.
Does it prevent water from storing in the chimney itself? If not you should consider installing a stainless cap to protect the chimney from moisture. It’s not just about water coming in, it’s about protecting the chimney as well.
I see. I’ve just checked your historical weather, it seems you have mild winters compared to me. The hard frost here destroys chimneys that hold moisture, I think this is why the flashing trays don’t work as well here. Although they would be fine if the top was completely protected from the rain.
I like the way this guy works. If your going to take on a repair job price out for stripping it to the guts and fix it the right way only way to do it! 👍👍
In England we use use lead soakers underneath each slate with an upstand of at least 4 inch and then use lead cover flashings and clip them together lasts 100 year plus no leaks
I really like the lead soakers, I do it the same way sometimes. I actually flash many different ways depending on the job. I don’t like the way you do cover flashing, it looks awful and doesn’t get the proper coverage especially on the corners of every step. Seems like a really cheap way to do it, just trying to cover with the least amount of lead possible. We also don’t have any lead workers here to weld everything up nice. I’ve been told the lead we have available is too thin to weld as well.
@@chadvaillancourt the lead doesn't always have to go down to the roof if you have a 4 or 5 inch upstand but I get what your saying. Also over here we have different thicknesses of lead from code 3 up to code 8. And good leadworkers are hard to find but there are some really good ones. I think you do great work 👍
@@chadvaillancourt we also like to cover each peice of flashing by 4 inch laterally similar to that on the chimney. It can be done in 1.2 meter pieces with it going at a diagonal and it works if done correctly otherwise we wouldn't do it 👍 there's a guy on UA-cam called SLB leadworks and he's a true craftsman with lead much better than anyone I know including myself you should check his videos he's awesome
I have been subscribed to his channel since he started. I’ve even reached out with some questions I had. He’s a very nice guy and an amazing craftsman. I’m really glad he’s willing to share what he knows.
It makes total sense to put the I&W on top of the shingles at the bottom instead of directly on the roof deck, at least to me, though I wonder what will happen to it on the eventual reroof. What is the pitch on that roof?
Hi Chad! Thank you so much for all of your videos! Wondering what kind of mortar you used? I have repointed some of the chimney with Type N/ sand mix but I believe that takes a week to fully cure. Thanks again!
I have a leak but not at the chimney. It is from siding to roofing joint on L shaped wall. They do have step flashing. Should I do the same with long drip edge or base flashing instead of step flashing and cover it with Grace ice and water shield? Only concern is the Grace shield will be up over the siding. I don't know whether it is ok or looks odd?
So what did you do about the solid concrete sealer covering the entire brick and mortar surface. This is the main reason why this chimney is leaking. When you put a solid sealer on the surface you automatically trap the moisture and heat within the chimney and then when that chimney gets cold from winter weather the trapped moisture wicks down inside the brick and leaks out inside the attic cinder block surface. I would bet that the original Mason corbled that brick out past the cinder block interior. That chimney brick should have been torn down and rebuilt. Then the new surface should have been sprayed with a siloxane sealer like (Sure-Klean siloxane pd)after the roof shingles and flashing is installed. When we did our installations around chimneys we would run a modified asphalt cement around the lower edge from wood decking up the brick 3" and lay the ice shield into it.
Chimney? Obviously there isn't a real fire below it just gas so pop down rip that junk out put one of those designer flue less gas fires in then whip back up on the roof an get rid of that old fashioned chimney altogether and re roof that area proper ..no problem ! ..
@@johnedwards2608 So, if your chimney is just for gas and not for an actual fireplace, you can get rid of the chimney?! I didn’t know that was a possibility, I would love to get rid of my chimney altogether!
There is no problem with replacement of the brick after as long as they are not under or partially under the flashing. If they go under, you would do it beforehand.
I was reading a comment..it said if there is no fire just gas furnace, you can rip the chimney out and replace it with something else meant for gas furnaces. Is that true?
This particular chimney has a wood stove, fireplace and oil fired boiler, so the chimney is a necessity. I have seen new gas furnaces that vent with just pvc pipe. You would have to check with a plumber to see if you could do something different with yours, it’s not my area.
I am curious: Woudnt the flashing condence due to the heat evacuating from the cracks between the decking and chimney was? In order to get my grace Ice & Water shield to stick, I clean the brick & dry or for other Ice & water shield (not grace) use mapp gas torch bottle and apply heat to weld onto the brick/concrete.
I’ve never noticed condensing. Attics here are ventilated and normally just as cold as the outside. I also use a torch to make it stick. I use metal every time now, I can’t trust it to hold onto masonry after a couple years. I’ve seen it slip too many times.
The only purpose is so I can seal it with silicone for the night, then I don’t have to worry about rain getting in. The silicone bonds the Grace with the brick and mortar.
The way to fix this properly is to thru flash the whole chimney in lead coat copper. That requires the removal of the chimney top. When finished it would be waterproof even if the chimney wasn’t there. When you have a chimney in the center of a house it’s the only reliable method.
I’ve seen the method you describe several times, almost always done with copper. The chimney fails every time. It sounds good in theory, but I’ve not seen it ever work in practice. Leaves unsightly staining as well.
@@chadvaillancourt I have a house in Ukraine with a central chimney . I think I will make a decorate metal top hat 🎩 to solve my problem. I am getting new metal sheet roofing and was thinking how to solve the leaking problem. Thanks for your video
@@chadvaillancourt seller sold us house with recent roof replacement. We know chimney was leaking. We also know roofer took advantage of elderly seller. Worried it’ll leak again. Where are you located? Don’t trust roofer who did it.
I cut a groove in the Brick with a tile blade bent the flashing to insert it into the brick with polyurethane to make it a continuous deterrent to make water go away from the chimney, also the top bend was 45 degree not 90 to aid in deflecting water in case the polyurethane failed, because I didn't want to go back and fix it again.
@@chadvaillancourt I’m assuming CV masonry. I’ll give you a call next week. Got a problem chimney still leaking after flashing was replaced and chimney wrapped.
Dude that wasn't a custom chat that was a company that was paid to come out there and paid him a shitload of money and they just put the top on did exactly what they were told to do and didn't think anything past sex that's not what they're paid to do which is which is yeah obviously really frustrating but you're actually pointing out things I'm dealing with something similar to this currently
Hi Chad what was the metal you used under ice and water ? Is it aluminum ? Isn’t Aluminum not advised to use with brick and cement? Thanks . Can you send link for part 2 thanks
Yes it’s aluminum, and it’s perfectly fine against masonry, it only has a slight reaction when embedded in wet mortar but it’s superficial. You don’t want the aluminum and lead touching because it will have a reaction over time.
@@lizls6640 don't ever use aluminum for flashing. I've been a mason and owned my own masonry company for 30 years and I have to replace aluminum flashings all the time.
@@fun_with_daddy3106 we are talking about the metal Chad used under the ice and water. It was Aluminum . Chad said it was okay to use. Do you think its not ok to use? If not then what to use
So. Why didn't he use some sort of calking, sealer under the aluminum flashing? Run the flashing past the corners? And then seal the flashing with the grace barrier? It's common knowledge that you peal the paper backing and stick the ice barrier. I believe it's on the instructions. Anyhow. God bless
The chimney should be knocked to roof level and a full lead tray installed with the flu liner directed up through the centre,.the bricks then built on this tray., and flashing as you go .
I’ve never once seen a flashing pan/tray in a chimney that didn’t completely fail and or lead to complete failure of the chimney. Not to mention the awful streaks they leave down the sides that you have to deal with after the first year. Most are done with copper here and are soldered up real nice. I can’t get behind building this way. Also, chimneys here have many flues, so having them centered is out of the question most jobs.
It did take place over three different days but in reality it probably took around 10 hours by myself. I’m really not interested in sharing pricing, I don’t want my channel to be about that. Companies charge drastically different amounts, for different reasons.
It's shadetree flyby night contractors who do crap like this that pisses me off, I am no roofer and when you pointed out that the nails were not put into the nail line I wanted to scream. That roof needs to be redone. I bet those people paid good money for that rook to be put up, but I do understand people don't want to pay up to get good quality work. The question is what is quality work? The fact that they didn't run the shield up the chimney is again some low down crap.
grace is the worst water and ice shield temp rating of 200 when the sun hits it will melt and run down the roof you should also try some zip tape on the corners
Grace is by far the best that I’ve tried. True this isn’t the high temp stuff meant for metal roof installs but it has been proven to work for decades. I do use stretch tape on the corners but not everyone keeps a roll in the truck, it’s too expensive.
@@chadvaillancourt if you would like I can send you pictures of that grace running down the roof or dripping off the dripping edge, I have been roofing for 40 years and grace is the worst and most expensive, it will come back to haunt you some day
I’ve not had a bad experience or even seen one yet. It’s been tested to be stable up to 260 degrees, I don’t think roofs in the northeast would ever see temps like this, even if the attic is improperly ventilated. I am curious, what would you recommend? I really dislike the wax paper on the Grace.
Not really. Water is most likely to come in through the flashing and damage insulation, drywall, and paint. Water itself doesn't really hurt the masonry. The problems occur when the water stores inside of the masonry and you get freezing conditions. The water expands when it turns to ice, causing damage.
I’ve seen how the Europeans do lead, I would never consider doing it that way. It’s ugly, and there are weak spots in every corner, at every step where water absorbs in. Trying to do a whole chimney with one cut up piece of lead is just cheap and wrong. They do have very good welding though. Thanks for your kind words and support.
Why would someone do something so ridiculous? Of course they have a wood fireplace and a wood stove. Why would anyone chose to burn gas when wood is free and heats much better?
@@chadvaillancourt if you took the time to examine the actual chimney the video is about you would see it's been capped off and a GAS ! Flue is poking through the top ! Ooohh !! So in making a comment wouldn't it be easier to get your facts right first ...derrrrr.
@@chadvaillancourt there is watch the video from the beginning when it shows the top of the chimney....so what's that then ! The chimney has a stainless steel fabricated cap under the cap the entire chimney is capped off bar one square section which obviously is a vent which is attached to what ? Oh yea ! A flue pipe attached to what !? A gas fire or perhaps they didn't need a fire anymore as these days good central heating can handle anything and that square section is now just an air vent ... Like I said are you watching what your doing...So you watch this video again and look exactly what's there .. if there was an open flame fire below that chimney how the hell dose any smoke get out explain that then ? In regards to the stainless steel cap what's the reason for this then ? Sun bathing !
You may be the most delusional and misguided person I’ve ever interacted with on UA-cam. Your so empathetic and confident in what you say, but in reality you have zero understanding of anything. It’s actually impressive how far off someone could be.
You may have had a homeowner that did that questionable work, himself the people may not have wanted to spend the money whoever owned the house a lot of factors go into it. Quality is free however..
That is the largest and ugliest chimney I've ever seen 😂 Good thing to rip out all the old shitty work and redo it properly👍 The top of it really needs some better water diversion than that cap that collects it to the middle instead 🙄
I totally agree. The cap is a big problem, they were unwilling to take care of it at the time. I’m sure it’s getting completely saturated every rain storm.
I have been a masonry contractor for over 47 years and I can tell you from experience that if flashing does not go through the brick I mean all the way through the brick and turn up on the backside of the brick which is called a step flashing you my friend are not flashed. You will have water intrusion due to the fact that those brick or soaking up water through the motor joints. You will be forever putting on sealers and trying to combat the water intrusion. Think about that. You are not flashed unless it runs through the entire bed depth of the brick.
You do nice work but all u do is talk trash. Just show your work less bashing sometimes they do just need to seal and retuck flashing . Don’t confuse homeowners
Could of shaved a whole lot of time off the video if you didn't repeatedly state how dumb the previous guys were and how much better you are. They did it wrong definitely but clearly thats evident by the fact it leaks could of just stated it done wrong and move forward but its my opinion everyone has their own opinions. I've done construction for over 2 decades I own my own company and I belive guys in this line of work are exceedingly arrogant and have excessive hubris. Even after the decades I've put in I remain open minded that I can learn new stuff or perhaps another guy has a different way of doing something that may indeed be better than my approach. I will say from my years in the union and intermittently thru out my career working with other trades electricians and plumbers are the worst tho
I love how you’re negative and condescending the entire time you’re telling me to be a better person. Cracks me up. You seem like you have your stuff together, maybe you should consider starting your own channel, showing your own work. After all, people love opinionated people; who like to talk about themselves.
Sorry guys, you Yanks have a terrible system that only lasts a few years! These felt shingles are rubbish! You need slate or tiles, then do the job once instead of every 5-10 years 🤷🏻♂️
Step flashing goes in a under shingle course repeated overlapping the previous step flashing 2 inch overlap or 1inch min after that counter flashing to make more asttetically appealing ..
Long flashlight on the sides is going 2 leak. Step flashlight is the correct method. Do yourself and your customers a favor!Buy a break, use galvanized coated copper, and watch some UA-cam!!
My flashing doesn’t leak, it can’t, it’s just not possible. Maybe you could attach one of your instructional videos? Show the world that you’re not just another toxic person.
Amazing work. I'll bet 50% of roofers or chimney guys aren't this thorough.
Can't wait to see Part 2. Thanks so much!!
More like 90%.
More likely speaking from are you a roofer so you're basing everything he's saying is Gospel on what the fact that what he has a UA-cam video news flash you don't need to be right to be on UA-cam
@@paulhenk8186 based on a licensed professional opinion, coming from someone who sees the damage from it being done the easy way, I confirm it's closer to 90 of repairs. I believe this comes from the fact that most roofers aren't masons, most masons aren't roofers, and the good masons don't seem to be the ones doing the repairs. Most use tar, which shrinks away and leaves a crack/gap, others use silicone, which doesn't fix the real issue, which is failed mortar or incorrectly installed/old flashing that has previously been nailed through and is pulling away. Also, another problem addressed in the video is not enough overlap and lack of proper ice and water shield application. in short, no cap.
Hopefully people will see what incompetent, corrupt handymen / contractors do. Unfortunately true craftsmanship today in 2023 is lacking. That patch job was unbelievable.....
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and fixing the problems.
God bless 🙏🎄
A true craftsman at work. Thanks for sharing brother
Chad, amazing how you take pride in your work. I am having my roof replace in a couple days. I am very nervous how they re-flash around my chimney. I am sure the new singles will look pretty but pretty doesn't keep water out. Workmanship and skill keeps water out.
Thank you for the good explanation and for also wearing your safety gear. I am not looking forward to doing my chimney but I'm greatful I can now.
As a commercial drone pilot who does roofing inspections for insurance, this video helped immensely. Thank you for sharing!
This calm roofing instructional video reminds me of Bob Ross painting a picture lol. Thanks!
Great video, you took the time to explain in detail the whole process, really enjoyed that. I watched both parts.
This makes me happy to hear! I know most people won’t watch the entire videos. I like to think my videos are geared towards specific viewers, that’s why I don’t edit everything down to super short videos. Thanks for watching!
@@chadvaillancourt I watched the video of you putting a SS liner into a chimney for a wood stove, and I am assuming that the 2 boys there where your kids, and it is so funny to see how much they don’t know, when at that young age, you think you know everything, but they know very little, I could see how you are trying to teach them, my father would always say, “ Use your head, think, think of the next step”, but when your young you don’t have anything to draw from, no experience, so learn, you father is trying to teach you, you have an opportunity to learn from , take advantage of that opportunity. I have had people say to me you had and advantage, I didn’t have and advantage, I had an opportunity, and I took advantage of that opportunity, that is how you learn, right?, good for you, I can see that you are trying to teach them. Good for them, to have a father like you.
hey chad thanks so much for the education i have been trying to get my husband to understand how important it is to have this taken care of !!!
My pleasure! Happy to help.
Nicely done, you had me hooked when I saw how well you cleaned up after removing the mortar/cleaning up the brick.
Thank you.
@@chadvaillancourt what does doing something like this cost ?
I got a very similar issue and was told to just tar it , I can see exactly what you mean but it seems like this would be very pricey?
Those holes that you so adamant about filling in with murder absolutely positively do not have anything at all
@@paulhenk8186 How much did drink before you typed this?
@michaelpayne8102 😆 I think it's safe to say that Paul hasn't written a complete sentence since August 1st, 1986. He's a "pro roofa," cut him some slack. 😉
Can’t believe you got Edward Norton to narrate this! Great information, too. In a just world, someone would pay a cameraman to follow you so your viewers could really see all the things your pointing out
This is definitely the highest of compliments! I bet Ed Norton doesn’t have to film himself, lol. Takes a lot of energy to film and edit myself, I wish I had a camera crew. Thanks for watching
This is top quality craftsman at work... My hat off to you Chad!!
I like being thorough and do too.dont see as much these days.thank you for being out there.o
That k you for your vids as a 15 year bet mason this needs to be out in the world I love your vids and absolutely right the mason never wants to do the roof and the roofers never touch the lead I do all of it and I’ve never had a leak from watching your videos so good stuff my man keep it up 😊😊👍👍
Great to hear buddy! Thanks!
May i ask So who do i look for when i want to do chimney flashing and also fix the shingle area after they done with flashing job?
Great craftsmanship, great video!!
Your work ethic is amazing 😁.
Thank you! 😊
The ice and water shield will stay. In fact if installed correctly it will pull your mortar/ grout away from the brick. But ALL masonry requires primer. And should be rolled immediately after installation to insure a proper bond. But having said that the metal corner flashing is a good idea because the ice and water shield should have no voids or unbonded areas. It is extremely difficult to accomplish this in erratic corners.Most people do a half assed job installing graces sheet products. All seams should be rolled. Also all fishmouths and wrinkles should be rolled before installing the next sheet. As a roofer you can get away with skipping this because of the slope and shingling. But when it comes to vertical surfaces you need to follow these guidelines If your membrane pulls free cleanly or “ falls of the wall “ it is an inferior installation. ( in my world it is a failure) I routinely use grace self adhered sheet goods below grade and below sea level so I can’t rely on shingling. I also have Grace reps inspecting my installations to certify their guarantee. Having said all this, for someone that doesn’t install thousands of rolls of this and has probably never been under graces tech reps scrutiny ,you do a much better job than most. This comment is not meant as criticism. It fact it is clear you want to go the extra mile to do quality work. It is meant to give you a little more knowledge to do an even better job.
What kind of primer? Is it specific to Grace products? And how is it rolled?
@ the primer is actually specific to each of the different Grace self adhered products. You have to roll it after sticking it to the wall in all areas and especially the seems. The purpose of rolling it is to eliminate all voids between the sheetgoods and the substrate. When you roll the seems there should be a definite line showing the exact edge of the sheet underneath. Zero air underneath. We roll the field with this type of roller
www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwi__riQjNWJAxUDD60GHcq3CKQYABAQGgJwdg&co=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88a5BhDPARIsAFj595j8CgYfVlQ2nj9hJvAKqgmL4gbvJ9s3YUHo2uBx5o6kQ6XnCxiy1GEaAvKsEALw_wcB&sig=AOD64_2w56s06XMRPMSc3FSL3hPsigJ7QQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjK17OQjNWJAxU9MjQIHWn0AJ8Q5bgDKAB6BAgIECk&adurl=
And detail the seems with this type of roller
www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwjgleepjdWJAxUiIK0GHTb5BT0YABAYGgJwdg&co=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88a5BhDPARIsAFj595hqQ243sKTmJuaIEJQ0L7R7enrZLOrbavBM2PK_wIHqU6aP-fhMJFAaAuX5EALw_wcB&sig=AOD64_2pQWobSsVr-mreq3dF6tPzaU7b_A&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjYyOKpjdWJAxV6FTQIHUFIOBMQ5bgDKAB6BAgHEDc&adurl=
I’m a mason I would have tuck point the mortar before the scratch coat with grinder and dough bag but I’m learning a lot about flashing thanks for the video 🙌🙌
Thnks. Doing a re-dryin around a chimemy and couldnt for certainty remember the proper cuts for wrapping up and around obstacles in the feild... thank you.
💯 percent reclaim job. I hate mending stuff thats been mended. And sometimes I get criticized for the amount of time it takes me to do something but I'm not charging it for the time it takes me to do it well but I do make sure I charge for the time that it takes because I have to redo it
Some poor guy is watching this and saying, “eff, he’s redoing my crappy job!”.
You certainly do professional work, Chad!
💪💪💪
Haha, maybe. I do know the roofer and one of the masons that tried fixing it. 😂
Thank you for being thorough. I was about to get flex seal but gonna start with better coverage. Anyway, I hope you are using a tripod for your camera now. Fast motion with camera mount on your head, literally made me so queasy I had to close my eyes.
Sorry about that, I’m trying to get better at the filming and editing. I stopped using the go pro for motion stuff.
Quite often people ask can you put new stuff over existing. This is good example what happens when you do it, it might look Ok but it doesn't work or eventually fails.
I also ask for those who want new stuff over existing that "do you also take shower and put clean underpants over old ones?"
9:12 That grey underlayment Made in Finland.
We used to to step flashing also 1970s today most common is to cover whole chimney with sheet metal. Meaning what you did with water shield we either use same felt what shingles are made of or on metal roof then with metal and a little bit higher what you put it, then counter it with whole chimney sheeting.
But it also quite rare today that chimney is made from bricks most used is insulated steel chimney.
Your job is not gonna leak! Well done.
Definitely not.
You need to check out how we flash a chimney in the UK with lead, no adhesive tar paper and a finished job that lasts for ever and classic looking,( no caulking in the brick joints).
We don't have lead welders in the US sir
I've just done a pair of chimneys in the Cotswolds and put a lead apron all the way through the stack six inches above the ridge line with a welded lead collar around the flue and then built the remainder of the chimney off the top of it. This was then dressed down all the way around over the lead soakers. There is no exposed brickwork below the apron, all leadwork. This stops everything coming in.
Does it prevent water from storing in the chimney itself? If not you should consider installing a stainless cap to protect the chimney from moisture. It’s not just about water coming in, it’s about protecting the chimney as well.
@Chad Vaillancourt it's Cotswold stone, it's very porous, top and pot have just been flaunched. It's accepted that the top will hold moisture.
I see. I’ve just checked your historical weather, it seems you have mild winters compared to me. The hard frost here destroys chimneys that hold moisture, I think this is why the flashing trays don’t work as well here. Although they would be fine if the top was completely protected from the rain.
@Chad Vaillancourt makes sense, it's this pair here on the Cotswolds Distillery visitors centre. ua-cam.com/video/KhmHG-XyqX0/v-deo.html
I like the way this guy works. If your going to take on a repair job price out for stripping it to the guts and fix it the right way only way to do it! 👍👍
I like your roof workbench. Would like to hear more about it.
It shows up in most of my videos. I’ve covered them a few times.
In England we use use lead soakers underneath each slate with an upstand of at least 4 inch and then use lead cover flashings and clip them together lasts 100 year plus no leaks
I really like the lead soakers, I do it the same way sometimes. I actually flash many different ways depending on the job. I don’t like the way you do cover flashing, it looks awful and doesn’t get the proper coverage especially on the corners of every step. Seems like a really cheap way to do it, just trying to cover with the least amount of lead possible.
We also don’t have any lead workers here to weld everything up nice. I’ve been told the lead we have available is too thin to weld as well.
@@chadvaillancourt the lead doesn't always have to go down to the roof if you have a 4 or 5 inch upstand but I get what your saying. Also over here we have different thicknesses of lead from code 3 up to code 8. And good leadworkers are hard to find but there are some really good ones.
I think you do great work 👍
@@chadvaillancourt we also like to cover each peice of flashing by 4 inch laterally similar to that on the chimney. It can be done in 1.2 meter pieces with it going at a diagonal and it works if done correctly otherwise we wouldn't do it 👍 there's a guy on UA-cam called SLB leadworks and he's a true craftsman with lead much better than anyone I know including myself you should check his videos he's awesome
I have been subscribed to his channel since he started. I’ve even reached out with some questions I had. He’s a very nice guy and an amazing craftsman. I’m really glad he’s willing to share what he knows.
@@chadvaillancourt yes he has replied to my questions also 💪👍 he's great
It makes total sense to put the I&W on top of the shingles at the bottom instead of directly on the roof deck, at least to me, though I wonder what will happen to it on the eventual reroof. What is the pitch on that roof?
What product did you use for the brick parging? Did it have a bonding agent in it?
Hi Chad! Thank you so much for all of your videos! Wondering what kind of mortar you used? I have repointed some of the chimney with Type N/ sand mix but I believe that takes a week to fully cure. Thanks again!
I have a leak but not at the chimney. It is from siding to roofing joint on L shaped wall. They do have step flashing. Should I do the same with long drip edge or base flashing instead of step flashing and cover it with Grace ice and water shield? Only concern is the Grace shield will be up over the siding. I don't know whether it is ok or looks odd?
Best knife ever Lennox
So what did you do about the solid concrete sealer covering the entire brick and mortar surface. This is the main reason why this chimney is leaking. When you put a solid sealer on the surface you automatically trap the moisture and heat within the chimney and then when that chimney gets cold from winter weather the trapped moisture wicks down inside the brick and leaks out inside the attic cinder block surface. I would bet that the original Mason corbled that brick out past the cinder block interior. That chimney brick should have been torn down and rebuilt. Then the new surface should have been sprayed with a siloxane sealer like (Sure-Klean siloxane pd)after the roof shingles and flashing is installed. When we did our installations around chimneys we would run a modified asphalt cement around the lower edge from wood decking up the brick 3" and lay the ice shield into it.
Chimney? Obviously there isn't a real fire below it just gas so pop down rip that junk out put one of those designer flue less gas fires in then whip back up on the roof an get rid of that old fashioned chimney altogether and re roof that area proper ..no problem ! ..
@@johnedwards2608 So, if your chimney is just for gas and not for an actual fireplace, you can get rid of the chimney?! I didn’t know that was a possibility, I would love to get rid of my chimney altogether!
Xylene will take the sealer off.
@@johnedwards2608 How much would something like that cost?
😂😂😂 you came to watch the video but looks like you a pro 😂😂😂😂
Can you recommend what strength jack hammer/ chisel and stone saw/grinder would be appropriate for the job?
Thought caps were for the flue? And how could you keep the chimney from getting wet in the rain.
So that second blue line usually lines up with the top of shingle below
Thanks! Should spalling bricks be repaired before doing the flashing? Or does it matter?
There is no problem with replacement of the brick after as long as they are not under or partially under the flashing. If they go under, you would do it beforehand.
Thank you!
Should that first layer of flashing that you laid down wrap around the corner of the chimney?
Of course, that’s what provides the protection from water infiltration.
I was reading a comment..it said if there is no fire just gas furnace, you can rip the chimney out and replace it with something else meant for gas furnaces. Is that true?
This particular chimney has a wood stove, fireplace and oil fired boiler, so the chimney is a necessity.
I have seen new gas furnaces that vent with just pvc pipe. You would have to check with a plumber to see if you could do something different with yours, it’s not my area.
What does a job like this usually go for?
I am curious: Woudnt the flashing condence due to the heat evacuating from the cracks between the decking and chimney was? In order to get my grace Ice & Water shield to stick, I clean the brick & dry or for other Ice & water shield (not grace) use mapp gas torch bottle and apply heat to weld onto the brick/concrete.
I’ve never noticed condensing. Attics here are ventilated and normally just as cold as the outside.
I also use a torch to make it stick. I use metal every time now, I can’t trust it to hold onto masonry after a couple years. I’ve seen it slip too many times.
1 question please, If the Grace does not stick to green motar, why cut it a inch over the metal? Is there a reason for the extra inch. thanks
The only purpose is so I can seal it with silicone for the night, then I don’t have to worry about rain getting in. The silicone bonds the Grace with the brick and mortar.
@chadvaillancourt oh ok! I understand now. Thank you sir for the quick response.
The way to fix this properly is to thru flash the whole chimney in lead coat copper. That requires the removal of the chimney top. When finished it would be waterproof even if the chimney wasn’t there. When you have a chimney in the center of a house it’s the only reliable method.
I’ve seen the method you describe several times, almost always done with copper. The chimney fails every time. It sounds good in theory, but I’ve not seen it ever work in practice. Leaves unsightly staining as well.
@@chadvaillancourt I have a house in Ukraine with a central chimney . I think I will make a decorate metal top hat 🎩 to solve my problem. I am getting new metal sheet roofing and was thinking how to solve the leaking problem. Thanks for your video
@@chadvaillancourt seller sold us house with recent roof replacement. We know chimney was leaking. We also know roofer took advantage of elderly seller. Worried it’ll leak again. Where are you located? Don’t trust roofer who did it.
Ill share a little tip for you. Esp during colder days. Use a heat gun. Heat the back side and Melt the top perimeter to the masonry. Itll never leak
Where do you find someone like you to do a job like this?
This guy does great work. I’m have a problem with water coming down my chimney too, I really want him to fix it. Lol
Thanks!
I cut a groove in the Brick with a tile blade bent the flashing to insert it into the brick with polyurethane to make it a continuous deterrent to make water go away from the chimney, also the top bend was 45 degree not 90 to aid in deflecting water in case the polyurethane failed, because I didn't want to go back and fix it again.
The flashing you used before the water and ice, what material is it? Not aluminum is it?
I typically use epdm edge metal with a mill finish. Aluminum is fine as long as the lead doesn’t touch it.
@@chadvaillancourt awesome thanks, I check if I can find some. Would galvanized work too? Just not touching the lead
@OtenP428 yes
@@chadvaillancourt thanks again you’ve helped me so many questions. What’s your take on pantination oil? Would you recommend to use it for the lead
If you can find some in the states let me know. I’ve been trying to find some for years. It must be a good thing if everyone Europe uses it.
Do you service the southern NH area?
Yes, this is typically the area where I work.
@@chadvaillancourt I’m assuming CV masonry. I’ll give you a call next week. Got a problem chimney still leaking after flashing was replaced and chimney wrapped.
You don’t clean the oil off of the flashing before adhering the ice and water shield?
I don’t clean the oil off the drip edge metal before adhering the Grace. It’ll never come off.
Can you do the similar thing for MA location?
Yes, this method works even in states that have stripped its people of their civil liberties.
Thank you brother you the best
20 years of leaking? How’d the decking look?
Actually it wasn’t bad, the water was mostly leaking down the block work and staining it all up.
Dude that wasn't a custom chat that was a company that was paid to come out there and paid him a shitload of money and they just put the top on did exactly what they were told to do and didn't think anything past sex that's not what they're paid to do which is which is yeah obviously really frustrating but you're actually pointing out things I'm dealing with something similar to this currently
nice work
Hi Chad what was the metal you used under ice and water ? Is it aluminum ? Isn’t Aluminum not advised to use with brick and cement? Thanks .
Can you send link for part 2 thanks
I found part 2 but please answer my 1st question thanks
Yes it’s aluminum, and it’s perfectly fine against masonry, it only has a slight reaction when embedded in wet mortar but it’s superficial. You don’t want the aluminum and lead touching because it will have a reaction over time.
@@lizls6640 don't ever use aluminum for flashing. I've been a mason and owned my own masonry company for 30 years and I have to replace aluminum flashings all the time.
@@fun_with_daddy3106 we are talking about the metal Chad used under the ice and water. It was Aluminum . Chad said it was okay to use. Do you think its not ok to use? If not then what to use
So. Why didn't he use some sort of calking, sealer under the aluminum flashing? Run the flashing past the corners? And then seal the flashing with the grace barrier? It's common knowledge that you peal the paper backing and stick the ice barrier. I believe it's on the instructions. Anyhow. God bless
I’m gonna guess you won’t travel to ct ?
Not for work. It's too far.
The chimney should be knocked to roof level and a full lead tray installed with the flu liner directed up through the centre,.the bricks then built on this tray., and flashing as you go .
I’ve never once seen a flashing pan/tray in a chimney that didn’t completely fail and or lead to complete failure of the chimney. Not to mention the awful streaks they leave down the sides that you have to deal with after the first year. Most are done with copper here and are soldered up real nice. I can’t get behind building this way. Also, chimneys here have many flues, so having them centered is out of the question most jobs.
How much $ you get for those repair ?
Hey Chad, are you in the northeast?
NH
What did you charge for this work? That is a 3 day repair.
It did take place over three different days but in reality it probably took around 10 hours by myself. I’m really not interested in sharing pricing, I don’t want my channel to be about that. Companies charge drastically different amounts, for different reasons.
Key 2in from the chimney nice
So...when do You folks come to West Denmark and a 45° roof? ;-)
EDIT: OLD Eternit with asbestos - of course 😲
where are u based? any chance u are in seattle?
I’m not.
Where’s part 2 the finish product
Yes, where we can look the finishing it up, please?
@timur1609 Chimney flashing install | Part 2
ua-cam.com/video/6zObhQKPg4Y/v-deo.html
One thing that worried me was that I didn't see you wearing a security rope.
I don’t prefer to wear fall arrest equipment. I will when I feel it’s necessary though.
It's shadetree flyby night contractors who do crap like this that pisses me off, I am no roofer and when you pointed out that the nails were not put into the nail line I wanted to scream. That roof needs to be redone. I bet those people paid good money for that rook to be put up, but I do understand people don't want to pay up to get good quality work. The question is what is quality work? The fact that they didn't run the shield up the chimney is again some low down crap.
After 20 years of renovation experience, I often take the chimney out completely if possible. I hate them. Nice work here though. That wont leak.
🤣 I hate them too. Lol 😆
Nice marker
Hey where do you buy your lead
Any masonry supplier or lumberyard. Home Depot and Lowes carry it too although they are more expensive.
Thanks
Was looking at roofing supply.
Home Depot Lowes Menards in Chicago area don’t have it available
Maybe try a masonry supplier?
Will do thanks
With the sealer on there they looked like water struck brick.
Where is the lead trays through the chimney? The chimney was built wrong..
We don’t build like that here because they all fail.
Why not do the top bit if you're going through all the effort to do the bottom bit
grace is the worst water and ice shield temp rating of 200 when the sun hits it will melt and run down the roof
you should also try some zip tape on the corners
Grace is by far the best that I’ve tried. True this isn’t the high temp stuff meant for metal roof installs but it has been proven to work for decades. I do use stretch tape on the corners but not everyone keeps a roll in the truck, it’s too expensive.
@@chadvaillancourt if you would like I can send you pictures of that grace running down the roof or dripping off the dripping edge, I have been roofing for 40 years and grace is the worst and most expensive, it will come back to haunt you some day
I’ve not had a bad experience or even seen one yet. It’s been tested to be stable up to 260 degrees, I don’t think roofs in the northeast would ever see temps like this, even if the attic is improperly ventilated. I am curious, what would you recommend? I really dislike the wax paper on the Grace.
@@parkeruhlman9998what do you recommend? I’m in Texas 🥵
If the chimney was really leaking for 20 years, then why isn't the entire Chimney/fireplace totally destroyed and in need of a full rebuild?
Not really. Water is most likely to come in through the flashing and damage insulation, drywall, and paint. Water itself doesn't really hurt the masonry. The problems occur when the water stores inside of the masonry and you get freezing conditions. The water expands when it turns to ice, causing damage.
@@chadvaillancourt thank you for the explanation
Good video!
Thanks!
First day at wrapping a chimney for Xmas
Yes, it’s my first day.
I teach like you lol that cap. That drip edge is incorrect.but I know you know this lol
I’m calling OSHA😊
I liked everything except the end when you left tools up on the roff. BAD BAD BAD in my book.
It was get my daughter to soccer on time or look bad in your book. My tools are responsible enough to handle a night out once in a while.
That's him told buddy🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@chadvaillancourt your daughter won't rust outside.
All you done there is change some gunge for some new gunge....thats all you have done...suggest you go and learn how to lead work a chimney stack..
I’ve seen how the Europeans do lead, I would never consider doing it that way. It’s ugly, and there are weak spots in every corner, at every step where water absorbs in. Trying to do a whole chimney with one cut up piece of lead is just cheap and wrong. They do have very good welding though. Thanks for your kind words and support.
That entire roof including chimney should've been demoed and redone.
Chad do you have a email address? I have a situation going on with a chimney and need some help figuring this out
Flueless gas fire \ remove chimney \ repair roof ...fixed !
Why would someone do something so ridiculous? Of course they have a wood fireplace and a wood stove. Why would anyone chose to burn gas when wood is free and heats much better?
@@chadvaillancourt if you took the time to examine the actual chimney the video is about you would see it's been capped off and a GAS ! Flue is poking through the top ! Ooohh !! So in making a comment wouldn't it be easier to get your facts right first ...derrrrr.
Perhaps your commenting on the wrong video? There is no evidence to support what you’re suggesting here.
@@chadvaillancourt there is watch the video from the beginning when it shows the top of the chimney....so what's that then ! The chimney has a stainless steel fabricated cap under the cap the entire chimney is capped off bar one square section which obviously is a vent which is attached to what ? Oh yea ! A flue pipe attached to what !? A gas fire or perhaps they didn't need a fire anymore as these days good central heating can handle anything and that square section is now just an air vent ... Like I said are you watching what your doing...So you watch this video again and look exactly what's there .. if there was an open flame fire below that chimney how the hell dose any smoke get out explain that then ? In regards to the stainless steel cap what's the reason for this then ? Sun bathing !
You may be the most delusional and misguided person I’ve ever interacted with on UA-cam. Your so empathetic and confident in what you say, but in reality you have zero understanding of anything. It’s actually impressive how far off someone could be.
You may have had a homeowner that did that questionable work, himself the people may not have wanted to spend the money whoever owned the house a lot of factors go into it. Quality is free however..
Maybe you should go to the British Isles and learn how to flash a chimney correctly.
Maybe you should post a video and show the entire world how you do it…
Maybe you should bully people to their face instead of hiding behind a screen.
i hate flashing material. Water drains down inside them
Sure, you don’t have to use any flashing if that’s what you’re looking for. You may not like the results if you’re worried about water intrusion.
Nothing wrong with sealing anything bro !!!! Period 😂
You sound like a real craftsman
@@chadvaillancourt and u are ????
Not compared to you
UVA fool home boy
That is the largest and ugliest chimney I've ever seen 😂
Good thing to rip out all the old shitty work and redo it properly👍
The top of it really needs some better water diversion than that cap that collects it to the middle instead 🙄
I totally agree. The cap is a big problem, they were unwilling to take care of it at the time. I’m sure it’s getting completely saturated every rain storm.
As a handyman. I will fix your problem. I will NOT have you pay me to cover it up. Find another man.
I have been a masonry contractor for over 47 years and I can tell you from experience that if flashing does not go through the brick I mean all the way through the brick and turn up on the backside of the brick which is called a step flashing you my friend are not flashed. You will have water intrusion due to the fact that those brick or soaking up water through the motor joints. You will be forever putting on sealers and trying to combat the water intrusion. Think about that. You are not flashed unless it runs through the entire bed depth of the brick.
I appreciate your point or view. However, I make a living fixing chimneys that have leaked for decades. This method works, and I don't use sealers.
😢
You do nice work but all u do is talk trash. Just show your work less bashing sometimes they do just need to seal and retuck flashing . Don’t confuse homeowners
Sometimes, people need to hear the truth to be educated. If that offends a couple of oversensitive people, it doesn't bother me. I'm not a politician.
I find it really informative
Clown town
Could of shaved a whole lot of time off the video if you didn't repeatedly state how dumb the previous guys were and how much better you are. They did it wrong definitely but clearly thats evident by the fact it leaks could of just stated it done wrong and move forward but its my opinion everyone has their own opinions. I've done construction for over 2 decades I own my own company and I belive guys in this line of work are exceedingly arrogant and have excessive hubris. Even after the decades I've put in I remain open minded that I can learn new stuff or perhaps another guy has a different way of doing something that may indeed be better than my approach. I will say from my years in the union and intermittently thru out my career working with other trades electricians and plumbers are the worst tho
I love how you’re negative and condescending the entire time you’re telling me to be a better person. Cracks me up.
You seem like you have your stuff together, maybe you should consider starting your own channel, showing your own work. After all, people love opinionated people; who like to talk about themselves.
Sorry guys, you Yanks have a terrible system that only lasts a few years!
These felt shingles are rubbish!
You need slate or tiles, then do the job once instead of every 5-10 years 🤷🏻♂️
I couldn't agree more. People expect a quality job using garbage products. It's gotten really bad here. Throw-away society.
Step flashing goes in a under shingle course repeated overlapping the previous step flashing 2 inch overlap or 1inch min after that counter flashing to make more asttetically appealing ..
This video had nothing to do with step flashing. If it had, I certainly wouldn’t install with a 1” minimum.
Long flashlight on the sides is going 2 leak. Step flashlight is the correct method. Do yourself and your customers a favor!Buy a break, use galvanized coated copper, and watch some UA-cam!!
My flashing doesn’t leak, it can’t, it’s just not possible.
Maybe you could attach one of your instructional videos? Show the world that you’re not just another toxic person.