Thank you, sir! I had this problem last winter only when snow packed up on my flashing. It doesn't leak otherwise even in the heaviest downpour. I calleda riding company and they wanted over $4000 and to come in and replace all the flashing. It was ridiculous. This is all it needs. I'm going to do this this fall.
When there's heat from the home coming up warming the underside of the roof it melts the snow & it runs down and when it hits colder sub straight it refreezes and wicks up backwards because of ice daming and can get up under roofing shingles and more! When u mention that u only had leaks when it snows not in rain it doesn't sound like a leak by wicking cause of an ice daming!
Yes ice daming but especially moss / tree debris is also a major issue can cause real bad daming. the tree debris starts composting and moss grows up in underneath the shingles and into the flashing up the chimney. Ice grows on the debris and moss making it even worse
Nice job as always. Learned about leak tracing. Bought poly turbo seal and roll of white fabric same time. Now I'm going to fix the chiminy flashing. I know surface has to be clean for adhesive to stick. I'll wipe with lacquer thinner after scraping and blowing/vacuum off .
Hahaha. Hey, there's this thing right next to the chimney, that's gushing water when it rains and flowing right at that skylight. Wonder why the skylight is leaking.
Honestly thats exactly what i was thinking..plus its more "in line" with the corner of the skylight. Also those tiny cracks in the chimey and those tight caulk lines didnt seem to convince me that they were the cause of the problem lol
Doc, you have made some excellent videos, but this is not one of them. That caulking is not perfect but is not the cause of the leak at skylight and you are far too knowledgeable and experienced to think that. Same with the mortar of the chimney. At 2:20 is the big error. No, or very very little water would leak inside there. From the images, as you correctly said, the skylight is probably not leaking (masking tape would have made the job a little better though). The cracks on the chimney are way too small to be the cause of the problem and would be easily fixed with primer and 2-3 coats of white acrylic gloss, just like the rest of the house. Your repair job here is nice but superfluous. Need to have a close look at that downpipe. Divert the flow to another downpipe or far away from skylights. Hope you found my comments constructive and that you weren't called back by the owners to revisit the same problem
@@jjbb9 Yes. make sure the chimney is thoroughly washed first, preferably with a pressure washer. If mortar falls out with the washing, repoint the damaged mortar lines with 4:1 mortar. the trick here is that you MUST wait at least 4 weeks for the mortar to cure BEFORE priming it.
@@redpost2380 totally agree man. I said the same thing in another post. Those tiny cracks in the chimey are normal..not enough to warrant anything. That caulking looked pretty solid if anything hes the one that manipulated it lol first thing I noticed was that gutter...and it definitely fell in "in line" with that corner of the skylight. I doubt what he did fixed the problem i wonder if theres an update to this video
@@hhawki3 A reinforced non sticking tape, very common, lots of versions and sizes. Often reinforced with fiberglass. Really strong in this kind of use. A bit like Amazon packing tape on steroids. :)
@@mdesign2339 Ok, I am not familiar with any products in others countries. But, if you look for a Polyester fabric and some mastic you could fix it. The Polyester fabric is the key.
I would repoint the brickwork or motar joints, extend the downspout away from the chimney flashing! Even if that small areawas the issue what about the remaining gaps and water intrusions into the chimney ! Now i think its a cool product but in this casei feel the downspouts were causing the chimney flashing to leak and ideally it need reflashed n sealed up then maybe use this product. That chimneys flashing should lay on top of the membrain and use sealant under its edges ! Fix the motar ,reflash chimney snd extend that downspout
Hello Flat Roof Doctor, I have a chimney that has some bricks that have the face of them chipping or it looks like they have cracked little pieces of the face off. What should my concern be or how do you fix this?
Thanks Montanez. I am heading to Pensacola next week on Thursday. Taking a small beak with my new wife. She is flying in from Mexico to Atlanta where I will pick her up on my way to Pensacola.
Still doesn't solve the water saturation problem. Water saturates through the brick and mortar so what you did will solve nothing!! You have to use a brick/ mortar sealer to fully seal the chimney from the top down. Then put a full metal chimney cap on the top to prevent water coming through the mortar bed on top. There's so much more you could have done to fully seal and fix that chimney. Nice try!👍 Secondly you have a downspout pouring tons of water right directly inline with the skylight leak??
Do NOT use brick/mortar sealer if the bricks or the mortar is made of old lime without portland cement. They began using portland cement widespread in the 1930's, so most chimneys and brick in general were soft lime before that. If you seal soft lime, it will promote spalling because water will get into the brick causing the brick to expand, but it cannot expand where the waterproofing is, and thus, it can break. Historic brick must be treated with special waterproofing meant for old lime bricks. However, if the bricks are modern hard cement, then the sealers are fine. Note that all bricks, pre and post portland cement, are porous and will absorb water which can drip behind the bricks and make their way to the base of the chimney even if they appear to have no cracks. That's why you need a drip pan at the base of a chimney that catches water on both sides of the bricks if the bricks are only one layer thick (brick veneer). If there are multiple layers of soft brick behind the brick veneer, then they should do a good job of absorbing that incoming water and will release it back to the veneer after the sun comes out. That's how they used to do it a hundred years ago. When you mix technologies, things don't always work as expected.
The gutter and the down spout are running into the the chimney,once it’s plugged all the water runs down that joint between the chimney and the siding that’s the problem.
Both of those are good home goods store brands. Also there is the flex brands. A little pricey but pretty good. I personally use either mule hide or geocel products. Both are found at roofing suppliers such as abc supply, beacon supply, etc. With Henry brush grade 2 coats are usually needed. Thru the roof is a little better. Behr multi surface is also a good temporary go to, until you can find something better. If you choose to coat your whole chimney, you really need to make sure no moisture is getting in because it will not evaporate correctly with a painted chimney.
@Ken Li I never had any problem with it. Worse comes to worse you can always hot mop the crap out of the flashing, but it wouldn't be pretty if it can be seen below.
Repointing is an old trick. This failed due to pointing or grouting. Do you suppose that cement stuck between brick and metal is a good idea. I have seen this problem over 40 years. In some cases it works and in other cases it doesn't. I have been using this technique over 5 years and have had no issues. Call it what you want. it is easier and simpler so anyone homeowner can do it unlike re-pointing you are referring too
Thanks for the video! 4:32 Why is a layer of toilet paper needed in this application? Also, would you recommend applying this treatment to a much larger brick surface, say, the entire chimney? Why or why not?
The mortar mix is what failed in the first place. I have worked on many 100's of chimneys over the years, the mortar is what fails. So your so-called "expensive fix" did not last on many chimneys, the "cheap" fix has worked for me for many years. The obvious is what you are missing.
@@FlatRoofDoctor Should have repointed the chimney and removed and replaced that failed joint sealant. Now you have a reinforced mess of urethane and bitumen that will have to get replaced in 10 years. Yuck.
@@FlatRoofDoctorbut your layer of gunk is below where those mortar cracks are, so how will that help if the water is already in behind it? This is curing a problem that doesn't exist, and will not have cured the problem that does exist
the guy criticizes a perfectly clean and sound neatly installed sealant saying that water was getting behind it even though he cant remove it or open a gap in the edge........and then creates a mess and claims to have cured a problem...... how not to repair a roof !
Don’t do this to your chimney or to the roof structure around it! The flashing should have been underlaid with water proof membrane and kerfed/cut into the chimney, then sealed with professional grade caulking. Any tuck pointing or crown repair should have been done then as well. Now that he’s done this, moisture will be trapped in the brickwork, which will cause spaulding, leading to brick replacement-a costly repair in the not-too-distant future as this product dries out. And water will continue to come in. Foolish! Don’t do this.
If it’s been raining heavily for a few weeks, should I wait a period of time for anything to properly dry out, or is it ok to apply on the first dry day?
Any product requires complete dry before applying it. Why would you ask a question like this? No oil, no water, no dust for any product. Use common sense.
Do you have a chimney certification because most of these things looks like you’re doing roof repairs on chimneys I am a chimney certified technician and half of the products you’ve been using are flammable and are not up to code with the guild of chimneys use products that come from saver system Polly seal does not go on the crown specially on the crown not trying to be rude just informing people who watch these videos and think this is the correct way to fix your chimney
Flammable at the time of application. But when cured after a few hours, it will not lit on fire. Here is the misinformation you are spreading. You are trying to put fear in people to let them think that any material on the chimney will combust causing a fire. That is wrong. No chimney produces excessive heat for any material to combust. The heat coming out of a flu pipe is so minimal, I can put my hand over that opening and it barely gets warm. People even use wood siding to cover entire chimneys. I have seen people wrap the entire chimney with plastic tarps or saran plastic. It is a bad idea to think it's gonna catch on fire. Listen, you ask if i have a chimney certification. Hmm, what do you think. Do you have a helicopter Pilots license. Use common sense. When you ask questions like that and make statements about combustible materials on chimneys, I realize you needed some schooling. I am glad you have your certification from "Tumi" At least you can fix chimneys properly. Thanks for you comments and statements. Have a nice day
at :39 seconds in you can see a cobbled up little square corner of roofing at the upper left corner of the skylight. It looks like about 3X4 inches square of patched in roof with sealant along 1 edge. Then 10 feet up the roof is a downspout flooding water down the roof. Why in God's name wouldn't a person extend the downspout down the roof past the chimney and past the skylight? The chimney caulking had a couple pinholes and was so solid that homeboy couldn't even break it off. This roof is a nightmare. The caulking most likely isn't an issue at all.
Horrifying idea. My god. Should have just removed the old sealant and replaced it with new. And repointed the chimney. What happens in 10 years when this stuff needs renewal?
Why not just use flashband instead of polyseal paint then lint cloth and polyseal paint again? At least with flashband you have an aluminium layer a bitumin layer and a non tear acrylic layer- all in one, no paint no mess and quicker, if applied correctly lasts 10 to 15 years! Ok lead can last 50 to 100 years but this is more of a 10 year temporary job anyway.
I am glad you do, it is hard to use newspapers because of the internet, no one buys the paper any longer so it became a scarcity. The Polyester fabric is a little expensive for you, you should stick to the Dollar Store brand. Lol Thanks for your comment naas
Having a drain spout dump water at the base of a chimney was dumb to do in the first place and equally dumb not to correct when there is a roof leak. Only silicon sealants have the needed durabilty to be used on a roof or rain gutters.
Thank you, sir! I had this problem last winter only when snow packed up on my flashing. It doesn't leak otherwise even in the heaviest downpour. I calleda riding company and they wanted over $4000 and to come in and replace all the flashing. It was ridiculous. This is all it needs. I'm going to do this this fall.
you are welcome
Same exact situation
Found the products at Home Depot. Came to the videos to see about any tips
I like the tape idea to get the clean easy edges
How long would thus last sir?
When there's heat from the home coming up warming the underside of the roof it melts the snow & it runs down and when it hits colder sub straight it refreezes and wicks up backwards because of ice daming and can get up under roofing shingles and more! When u mention that u only had leaks when it snows not in rain it doesn't sound like a leak by wicking cause of an ice daming!
Yes ice daming but especially moss / tree debris is also a major issue can cause real bad daming. the tree debris starts composting and moss grows up in underneath the shingles and into the flashing up the chimney. Ice grows on the debris and moss making it even worse
Nice job as always. Learned about leak tracing. Bought poly turbo seal and roll of white fabric same time. Now I'm going to fix the chiminy flashing. I know surface has to be clean for adhesive to stick. I'll wipe with lacquer thinner after scraping and blowing/vacuum off .
THANK YOU. out here in California and they trying to charge me 7k to 11k,,, Ill follow your advice you wise sage of flat roofs!
Does it work? Thanks
Good job sir thank you for taking the time to do this and share it with us
thanks. you are a great instructor. thanks so much for taking the time to help others. Appreciate the details and leak tracing.
I agree caulking doesn't last, especially silicone. I like the neat application with tape and a brush!
What was the cloth rap called?
Sealant paint on those skylights a bit shoddy, and i would have diverted the down pipe off the flat roof
what was the tape he used called??
Where to buy this tape
Should run some rain pipe to that part that empties out on the roof and connect it to the eacesdrop below
What brand of roofing grade toilet paper was that?
What about the cracked bricks and water getting in ? I’m having chimney issues now
What was the white paper he used to lay on top of the poly seal ?
Roofing paper. You'll find it stocked right next to the polyseal at your Lowes or Home Depot.
What's purpose of using this paper?
Toilet paper
@@Peter-976 - LOL
That "white paper" is called polyester fleece.
It's the gutter dumping loads of water towards the skylight.
Hahaha. Hey, there's this thing right next to the chimney, that's gushing water when it rains and flowing right at that skylight. Wonder why the skylight is leaking.
He’s the flat roof doctor, not the gutter doctor.
Honestly thats exactly what i was thinking..plus its more "in line" with the corner of the skylight. Also those tiny cracks in the chimey and those tight caulk lines didnt seem to convince me that they were the cause of the problem lol
What is the white roll?
Did you fix the cracks at the top?
Doc, you have made some excellent videos, but this is not one of them. That caulking is not perfect but is not the cause of the leak at skylight and you are far too knowledgeable and experienced to think that. Same with the mortar of the chimney. At 2:20 is the big error. No, or very very little water would leak inside there. From the images, as you correctly said, the skylight is probably not leaking (masking tape would have made the job a little better though). The cracks on the chimney are way too small to be the cause of the problem and would be easily fixed with primer and 2-3 coats of white acrylic gloss, just like the rest of the house. Your repair job here is nice but superfluous. Need to have a close look at that downpipe. Divert the flow to another downpipe or far away from skylights. Hope you found my comments constructive and that you weren't called back by the owners to revisit the same problem
Quick question - does your suggestion of primer and white acrylic gloss get painted onto the mortar lines in the chimney?
@@jjbb9 Yes. make sure the chimney is thoroughly washed first, preferably with a pressure washer. If mortar falls out with the washing, repoint the damaged mortar lines with 4:1 mortar. the trick here is that you MUST wait at least 4 weeks for the mortar to cure BEFORE priming it.
@@redpost2380 totally agree man. I said the same thing in another post. Those tiny cracks in the chimey are normal..not enough to warrant anything. That caulking looked pretty solid if anything hes the one that manipulated it lol first thing I noticed was that gutter...and it definitely fell in "in line" with that corner of the skylight. I doubt what he did fixed the problem i wonder if theres an update to this video
who else thought he was using toilet paper at first? lol
What was he using?
@@hhawki3 A reinforced non sticking tape, very common, lots of versions and sizes. Often reinforced with fiberglass. Really strong in this kind of use. A bit like Amazon packing tape on steroids. :)
I appreciate the information, very well detailed. Do you know if one’s common hardware store carries this or a similar product?
tubo seal its fiberglass correct its better that regular roof cement both use mesh. last or strech the same ratio.
Is there a product like this in the UK? Got leaking chimney with lead flashing
call or text me and I will give you an idea of what you can do in the UK
@@FlatRoofDoctor I’d like to know as well please.
@@mdesign2339 Ok, I am not familiar with any products in others countries. But, if you look for a Polyester fabric and some mastic you could fix it. The Polyester fabric is the key.
My advice would be to call a roofer from the UK! If this is the USA's finest, the UKs worst is better.
What is the white paper on the roll called?
Cottonelle
I would repoint the brickwork or motar joints, extend the downspout away from the chimney flashing! Even if that small areawas the issue what about the remaining gaps and water intrusions into the chimney ! Now i think its a cool product but in this casei feel the downspouts were causing the chimney flashing to leak and ideally it need reflashed n sealed up then maybe use this product. That chimneys flashing should lay on top of the membrain and use sealant under its edges ! Fix the motar ,reflash chimney snd extend that downspout
What’s that white roll of stuff?
Hello Flat Roof Doctor, I have a chimney that has some bricks that have the face of them chipping or it looks like they have cracked little pieces of the face off. What should my concern be or how do you fix this?
These bricks shouldn't be causing a leek but if they are just grind out the mortar around the damaged bricks and replace them hope that helps
What is the white “tape”?
Polyester fleece
Wowo Awesome vídeo my friend South Africa is a wonderful palace I would love to see it one day ..🙏👍
Thanks Montanez. I am heading to Pensacola next week on Thursday. Taking a small beak with my new wife. She is flying in from Mexico to Atlanta where I will pick her up on my way to Pensacola.
Flat Roof Doctor That sounds great awesome have Fun enjoy your time there 👍🙏
@@rvingmontanezway103 Thanks
@@FlatRoofDoctor My second fav SA after Michael Jamison channel.
That skylight!! 😍😍😂😂
Should you use this product the one customer stated it was flamable
what is wrong with being flammable? I have been using flammable stuff and working with Torches for over 35 years
Still doesn't solve the water saturation problem. Water saturates through the brick and mortar so what you did will solve nothing!!
You have to use a brick/ mortar sealer to fully seal the chimney from the top down.
Then put a full metal chimney cap on the top to prevent water coming through the mortar bed on top.
There's so much more you could have done to fully seal and fix that chimney.
Nice try!👍
Secondly you have a downspout pouring tons of water right directly inline with the skylight leak??
Yes you are right . If the Bricklayer put in proper lead trays no water leaks at all I'm a Bricklayer and know what I'm talking about
Do NOT use brick/mortar sealer if the bricks or the mortar is made of old lime without portland cement. They began using portland cement widespread in the 1930's, so most chimneys and brick in general were soft lime before that. If you seal soft lime, it will promote spalling because water will get into the brick causing the brick to expand, but it cannot expand where the waterproofing is, and thus, it can break. Historic brick must be treated with special waterproofing meant for old lime bricks. However, if the bricks are modern hard cement, then the sealers are fine. Note that all bricks, pre and post portland cement, are porous and will absorb water which can drip behind the bricks and make their way to the base of the chimney even if they appear to have no cracks. That's why you need a drip pan at the base of a chimney that catches water on both sides of the bricks if the bricks are only one layer thick (brick veneer). If there are multiple layers of soft brick behind the brick veneer, then they should do a good job of absorbing that incoming water and will release it back to the veneer after the sun comes out. That's how they used to do it a hundred years ago. When you mix technologies, things don't always work as expected.
Are you in houston ??
The gutter and the down spout are running into the the chimney,once it’s plugged all the water runs down that joint between the chimney and the siding that’s the problem.
Why is there not a lead tray in the chimney?
Yes
agree
Anyone know what a good equivalent in the U.S. would be for the bergstromm? Is Henry Flashing Cement as good?
Henry is a reliable brand
Both of those are good home goods store brands. Also there is the flex brands. A little pricey but pretty good. I personally use either mule hide or geocel products. Both are found at roofing suppliers such as abc supply, beacon supply, etc. With Henry brush grade 2 coats are usually needed. Thru the roof is a little better. Behr multi surface is also a good temporary go to, until you can find something better. If you choose to coat your whole chimney, you really need to make sure no moisture is getting in because it will not evaporate correctly with a painted chimney.
@Ken Li I never had any problem with it. Worse comes to worse you can always hot mop the crap out of the flashing, but it wouldn't be pretty if it can be seen below.
Karnak 155 best roofing cement out there wet or dry the BEST !!!!!
I don't understand what good the paper does.
Thanks very much!
Wow thank you somuch
cool, thank you so much.
very helpful.
thanks
Sure. You could do it your way. Or, you could do it the right way. Grind out that joint and repoint it. A patch is a patch, and patches fail.
Repointing is an old trick. This failed due to pointing or grouting. Do you suppose that cement stuck between brick and metal is a good idea. I have seen this problem over 40 years. In some cases it works and in other cases it doesn't. I have been using this technique over 5 years and have had no issues. Call it what you want. it is easier and simpler so anyone homeowner can do it unlike re-pointing you are referring too
Thanks for the video! 4:32 Why is a layer of toilet paper needed in this application? Also, would you recommend applying this treatment to a much larger brick surface, say, the entire chimney? Why or why not?
It's polyester fleece
Can you just imagine what it's like to wipe with polyester fleece?! Mmmm good! 💩🧻
So the whole chimney will become black after you are done?
So why do you want to paint it on the entire chimney? Duh! Get a mason to rebuild the chimney if it is that bad
@Flat Roof Doctor you're very mean lol
What is the white roll you use after your first coat?
It is a Polyester Fabric that is sold with Turbo Poly Seal. This fleece is what gives it strength
@@FlatRoofDoctor thanks man. Appreciate the fast reply. can't seem to find the turbo poly seal in Canada. Know of any other brands/equivalents?
@@icedarcade218 If you text or call me I will give you the brand you can find in Canada 203 858 0080
Ultra flash and polyester the best out there in the hardest extreme weather
Nice 👍
Thanks ✌
I doubt enough water gets into that small area of caulk on the side of the chimney to cause a leak 10 feet down the roof
What the heck was the white paper stuff you applied? Don’t you think you should share that with your viewers?
it is Polyester Fabric that comes with the Turbo Poly Seal when you buy it from Bergstromm.co
Last 5 years. A good mortar mix is permanent...cheap never last my friend
The mortar mix is what failed in the first place. I have worked on many 100's of chimneys over the years, the mortar is what fails. So your so-called "expensive fix" did not last on many chimneys, the "cheap" fix has worked for me for many years.
The obvious is what you are missing.
@@FlatRoofDoctor Should have repointed the chimney and removed and replaced that failed joint sealant. Now you have a reinforced mess of urethane and bitumen that will have to get replaced in 10 years. Yuck.
@@FlatRoofDoctorbut your layer of gunk is below where those mortar cracks are, so how will that help if the water is already in behind it?
This is curing a problem that doesn't exist, and will not have cured the problem that does exist
Too much water hitting the back of the skylight from rain water pipe , need diverting no more leaks👍🏻
Thanks for the tip
the guy criticizes a perfectly clean and sound neatly installed sealant saying that water was getting behind it even though he cant remove it or open a gap in the edge........and then creates a mess and claims to have cured a problem...... how not to repair a roof !
He's an embarrassment to roofers
Yea this is some goofy shit
Don’t do this to your chimney or to the roof structure around it! The flashing should have been underlaid with water proof membrane and kerfed/cut into the chimney, then sealed with professional grade caulking. Any tuck pointing or crown repair should have been done then as well. Now that he’s done this, moisture will be trapped in the brickwork, which will cause spaulding, leading to brick replacement-a costly repair in the not-too-distant future as this product dries out. And water will continue to come in. Foolish! Don’t do this.
water goes where water goes. There was obviously space between the caulk and the brick, even before he tried to pry it out.
Apologies I might have missed it what ply was that paper that you put on there in which Supermarket can I find it in
My leak is on the roof around the chimney.
If it’s been raining heavily for a few weeks, should I wait a period of time for anything to properly dry out, or is it ok to apply on the first dry day?
Any product requires complete dry before applying it. Why would you ask a question like this? No oil, no water, no dust for any product. Use common sense.
ouch, seems like a snarky reply to someone who may not be a professional in the field.
@@danchisholm1 definitely I would call a lawyer and sue him .
The downspout so close to the flue is not a good thing
Do you have a chimney certification because most of these things looks like you’re doing roof repairs on chimneys I am a chimney certified technician and half of the products you’ve been using are flammable and are not up to code with the guild of chimneys use products that come from saver system Polly seal does not go on the crown specially on the crown not trying to be rude just informing people who watch these videos and think this is the correct way to fix your chimney
Flammable at the time of application. But when cured after a few hours, it will not lit on fire.
Here is the misinformation you are spreading. You are trying to put fear in people to let them think that any material on the chimney will combust causing a fire. That is wrong. No chimney produces excessive heat for any material to combust. The heat coming out of a flu pipe is so minimal, I can put my hand over that opening and it barely gets warm. People even use wood siding to cover entire chimneys. I have seen people wrap the entire chimney with plastic tarps or saran plastic. It is a bad idea to think it's gonna catch on fire.
Listen, you ask if i have a chimney certification. Hmm, what do you think. Do you have a helicopter Pilots license. Use common sense. When you ask questions like that and make statements about combustible materials on chimneys, I realize you needed some schooling. I am glad you have your certification from "Tumi" At least you can fix chimneys properly.
Thanks for you comments and statements.
Have a nice day
Sweet Jesus, I wouldn't let this fella repair anything around my property!
at :39 seconds in you can see a cobbled up little square corner of roofing at the upper left corner of the skylight. It looks like about 3X4 inches square of patched in roof with sealant along 1 edge. Then 10 feet up the roof is a downspout flooding water down the roof. Why in God's name wouldn't a person extend the downspout down the roof past the chimney and past the skylight? The chimney caulking had a couple pinholes and was so solid that homeboy couldn't even break it off. This roof is a nightmare. The caulking most likely isn't an issue at all.
You'll need to shoot it too....
Targ were made and used to stop musket fire from rifle lines
Horrifying idea. My god. Should have just removed the old sealant and replaced it with new. And repointed the chimney. What happens in 10 years when this stuff needs renewal?
By then its somebody elses problem.
@@barackobama5304 - just like to former President would say.
It's a good value proposition
Wow sweetheart thank you for that video
See you next week in Atlanta heeeee haaa
Why not just use flashband instead of polyseal paint then lint cloth and polyseal paint again? At least with flashband you have an aluminium layer a bitumin layer and a non tear acrylic layer- all in one, no paint no mess and quicker, if applied correctly lasts 10 to 15 years! Ok lead can last 50 to 100 years but this is more of a 10 year temporary job anyway.
Don’t use dollar store toilet paper I use sharmin it’s two ply your finger doesn’t poke threw enjoy
I am glad you do, it is hard to use newspapers because of the internet, no one buys the paper any longer so it became a scarcity. The Polyester fabric is a little expensive for you, you should stick to the Dollar Store brand. Lol
Thanks for your comment
naas
@@FlatRoofDoctor - that’s a good one!
Everything has a life span. Caulking the poly seal.
Hummmm the downspout lol
Having a drain spout dump water at the base of a chimney was dumb to do in the first place and equally dumb not to correct when there is a roof leak.
Only silicon sealants have the needed durabilty to be used on a roof or rain gutters.
Is that just a roll of toilet paper he used for taping or is that a roll of flashing?
watch the video and pay attention. maybe you should turn the volume up.
South Africa ha isn't Elon Musk from there too
Yes he is, but I am not in his class, I have to make UA-cam videos and roofing for a living lol
Lol I highly doubt that was the problem
lol this turbo crap is 200$ lol wtf