My wife asked Tom to autograph his book for me for my 60th birthday in Sept. His autograph was what I wanted, but as I read the book, I began to be drawn to Tom's perspective on making guitars. As he indicates at the closing of this video, your heart should be in it and enjoying it, or what's the point really. I'm still looking for the quantum leap in my work, (haha) but I will say that I am finding more joy in it than before. I've had the good fortune to play one of his guitars, and if you haven't had the pleasure yet, you still have something wonderful to look forward to in your life. His guitars are actually living, breathing beautiful things. I can't explain it any better than that. You have to experience it. So having said that, whatever guidance Tom offers, I'm all in.
This is sage advice, for any maker, not just guitar makers. Slowing down to work through a process is something I struggle with in my shop and almost always leads to mistakes, redos, frustration and exhaustion. Thanks for making this video, it’s a topic we can all learn from and one I hope to improve on myself.
Thank you, Tom. I needed that. I finished my 6th acoustic guitar build. I do feel the pressure to “just get it finished”. Thanks for the great reminder to slow down and enjoy the process. I’ll incorporate this in my next build.
This reminds me of a horse-training proverb that carries over into every task: Take the time it takes and it takes less time. Thanks for the video, it's going to help me on my next build.
Another great video, one of many. Wish I could afford to join Luthier's Edge Course but seniors have their limitations. Ever consider offering a discount to senior citizens?
Thanks for all the important information you have shared with us. Your video helps me to answer a lot of questions about the kind of glue to use as well as the tape for it.
Thanks so much for this great video! I have watched quite a few tutorials but this is definitely one of my favourites. Well presented and full of great advice, in a clear and unrushed manner. I have been working on guitars for over 20 years, but there is always something new to learn. I can tell that you really do have a passion for your work, and it shows in your finished products. I wish you all the best in your future projects. Cheers from Australia!
Amazing advice! I struggled with wood binding through many guitars, until I watched Tom's approach. This advice is "stupid simple," but is worth its weight in gold! I am a member of The Luther's Edge, and it has been one of the best investments I've made as a luthier (10-12 resonator guitars a year). Highly recommended! Oh...and Tom is a really nice guy, which is icing on the cake!
I have built a dozen mandolins but no guitars. The choices of materials and dimensions is mind boggling. Where do you buy your binding material and what type of material do you like to work with?
I'm so glad this video came up for me today. I just glued the braces on my first soundboard and the next thing intimidating me is the binding. I was also intimidated by the rosette, but that came out well. I just had to spend hours and hours and hours on it. It's a good thing woodworking is my hobby and not my trade. I like your outlook and your tips, I'll be watching more. Thanks!
Thank you for all good informations. I'm a unexperiented brasilian hobby luthier, making my first acoustic classical guitar. All your advices will be used. You're the best.
Could you use a couple of heating matts to soften the length if binding, apply glue to guitar channel to accept binding, place it in position, and apply suitable clamps? I guess it would sorta be like steam bending without all the moisture. I’m a cabinetmaker/carpenter by trade and was thinking how to make this a faster process.
you mention in the video that you believed that having a tightly fitted binding improved the responsiveness of the guitar. I have acoustic/frequency spectrum measurements of one of my guitar bodies before and after binding. There is a significant difference, many more resonant peaks after binding - so I agree with you 😊
Hello, I am planning on re-binding my first guitar from 1982 in a walnut/maple rope binding. The body is mahogany with birdseye maple. It looks like I'm going to glue up each individual piece. I'm not sure which glue would be best. CA seeps into surrounding wood and securing each piece with Titebond might be very time consuming. Would thick CA glue be the solution? Or applying a coat of shellac to the surrounding corners prior to gluing? Any suggestions? Thank you.
Great Video! Thank you! My question is, when sealing the guitar to protect from CA glue wicking/staining...should the finish be what I will be using during the finishing process. In this video, you used Shellac, but for me, I will be finishing the guitar with PolyAcrylic. Should I do a preliminary seal with PolyAcrylic for protection during binding? Or would Shellac be okay for this step and then use the Poly later in the finishing process? Looking forward to hearing your advice. Thanks again!
Great video, this is a genuinely helpful, the passionate about what you do comes through. If the binding shrinks and lifts around the waste, my guitar, do I need to strip it all off and reshape and glue it on again. In fact it's lifting and coming off in several places.
Wow, just found out about your channel. Very helpful video, I've struggled with binding too. I have a binding related question if I may ask... : How to you approach putting light colored wood binding on a guitar when you also want to put some colored stain on the guitar body ? do you stain the guitar before putting the binding on ? if so, how do you manage to use a scraper to trim the binding flush to the body without touching the body and removing any staining ? that was a difficult part for me on my last archtop... I would appreciate any tips. TIA.
Hey Marc, These days I only use French polish with shellac and keep things natural. But when I used to spray Nitro and do a lot of color work, I used to complete the guitars first and get it ready for finishing. Then seal the whole thing. Tape off the binding with 3m stripers tape. Spray the color on (stain mixed with Nitro). Remove the tape and then spray the clear coats over that. It is a very clean way to do it if you are using a finish that you can spray.
Many thanks for this interesting video. When you are using shellac to protect the top, in which concentration is? Is the same for the finish of the top? Thank you
Hi Miguel, I use a 1lb cut for sealing the wood. Then I use a 2lb cut for the finishing. You can get all the info and details in my free shellac guide here: theartoflutherie.com/shellac-handbook-for-french-polishing/?
I love your videos and this was very helpful. I used strapping tape I purchased at a local hardware store and the CA stuck it to my wood and made a mess to clean up. Is there some specific tape I need so it won’t leave behind so much of a mess???
Great video. since you are doing your seal coat at the same time you are doing the binding, have you already final sanded and pore filled? seems like you are saving the binding for later in the build than most-- and for some really good reasons. Great tips!
Hey Greg, In the process of scraping and sanding the binding and purfling down, I also sand the whole guitar removing the shellac sealer and then doing the final tuning, followed by final sanding and preparation for the finish after that. The sealing at that binding stage is mainly to protect the surfaces during the gluing and taping process.
Awesome advice for beginners and even experienced luthiers. I personally shellac the spruce/cedar top even before routing the binding channels. it helps a lot with the tear out on those unforgiving woods. Also keeps a cleaner edge without fuzz (using a good downcuting router bit helps too). One more important tip I discovered (and it's not stressed enough in guitar making books IMHO) is to get your sides binding and subsequent top/back gluing perfect. Sides will determine the contour of the body, and bindings will make any asymmetry pop up like crazy. I'm making sure my edges are super square to top and back and that the sides comform to my mold perfectly before closing the box. There is no "it's fine I'll fix it later".
I understand what you are saying about the need to seal the open channels to keep the ca glue from wicking into the top or back, would there be any substitute for the shellac as it is very hard to come by in my area?
Excessive tape is brilliant; from an engineering perspective, you get optimal performance from the lowest ratio of bonding agent to material. Chemistry will tell you that the bonds are more organized and therefore stronger and transmit sound more efficiently as well, great tip my man.
This is a really helpful video. What method would you use when applying a synthetic or plastic binding? Is using Acetone a preferred method? Thank you !
I just avoid this by not using glue. I use acetone and if there is a gap, which hardly ever happens if you pay close attention, just melt a few shavings of binding and fill it in. Of course wood binding is a whole other ball game.
My wife asked Tom to autograph his book for me for my 60th birthday in Sept. His autograph was what I wanted, but as I read the book, I began to be drawn to Tom's perspective on making guitars. As he indicates at the closing of this video, your heart should be in it and enjoying it, or what's the point really. I'm still looking for the quantum leap in my work, (haha) but I will say that I am finding more joy in it than before. I've had the good fortune to play one of his guitars, and if you haven't had the pleasure yet, you still have something wonderful to look forward to in your life. His guitars are actually living, breathing beautiful things. I can't explain it any better than that. You have to experience it. So having said that, whatever guidance Tom offers, I'm all in.
This is sage advice, for any maker, not just guitar makers. Slowing down to work through a process is something I struggle with in my shop and almost always leads to mistakes, redos, frustration and exhaustion. Thanks for making this video, it’s a topic we can all learn from and one I hope to improve on myself.
Thank you, Tom. I needed that. I finished my 6th acoustic guitar build. I do feel the pressure to “just get it finished”. Thanks for the great reminder to slow down and enjoy the process. I’ll incorporate this in my next build.
This reminds me of a horse-training proverb that carries over into every task: Take the time it takes and it takes less time. Thanks for the video, it's going to help me on my next build.
I appreciate whoover speaks about slowing down his life!
Great advise on a tough topic/step in the building process 🤘🏼
Another great video, one of many. Wish I could afford to join Luthier's Edge Course but seniors have their limitations. Ever consider offering a discount to senior citizens?
Thanks for all the important information you have shared with us. Your video helps me to answer a lot of questions about the kind of glue to use as well as the tape for it.
Wow! So Helpful! All three points!
Excellent. This information should help with my first fretboard binding with CA glue. So glad I found your channel.
Excellent and detailed video!
Just a question.
Can you share us with your experience on binding electric guitar fingerboards?
Thank you!
Thanks so much for this great video! I have watched quite a few tutorials but this is definitely one of my favourites.
Well presented and full of great advice, in a clear and unrushed manner. I have been working on guitars for over 20 years, but there is always something new to learn. I can tell that you really do have a passion for your work, and it shows in your finished products. I wish you all the best in your future projects. Cheers from Australia!
@Art of Lutherie great video I've seen conflicting opinions on applying binding with titebond 2 or 3 - do ypu have a preferance for plastic binding?
You articulate the stress of binding a guitar very well...very good tips!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Lisa, so glad it was helpful!
Amazing advice! I struggled with wood binding through many guitars, until I watched Tom's approach. This advice is "stupid simple," but is worth its weight in gold! I am a member of The Luther's Edge, and it has been one of the best investments I've made as a luthier (10-12 resonator guitars a year). Highly recommended! Oh...and Tom is a really nice guy, which is icing on the cake!
Nobody likes stress but we can always learn to manage it. Well done!
I have built a dozen mandolins but no guitars. The choices of materials and dimensions is mind boggling. Where do you buy your binding material and what type of material do you like to work with?
I'm so glad this video came up for me today. I just glued the braces on my first soundboard and the next thing intimidating me is the binding. I was also intimidated by the rosette, but that came out well. I just had to spend hours and hours and hours on it. It's a good thing woodworking is my hobby and not my trade. I like your outlook and your tips, I'll be watching more. Thanks!
Thank you for all good informations. I'm a unexperiented brasilian hobby luthier, making my first acoustic classical guitar. All your advices will be used. You're the best.
Thanks so much, best of luck! If you haven't looked at it yet, you might find some more helpful over on my website here: theartoflutherie.com/
Thanks so much, Vimar, so happy it helped :)
Thanks for your detailed advice. I’ve been very nervous as I’m about to start this process on my first guitar build. Very helpful.
This is my first video and I feel very inspired by it, thank you! I am a fine woodworker considering going into luthier work.
Great to hear, glad it was helpful!
Could you use a couple of heating matts to soften the length if binding, apply glue to guitar channel to accept binding, place it in position, and apply suitable clamps? I guess it would sorta be like steam bending without all the moisture.
I’m a cabinetmaker/carpenter by trade and was thinking how to make this a faster process.
Thx Tom! Great video, tips and tricks - as always! 👍😎👍
Thanks Chuck! Glad it was helpful!
you mention in the video that you believed that having a tightly fitted binding improved the responsiveness of the guitar. I have acoustic/frequency spectrum measurements of one of my guitar bodies before and after binding. There is a significant difference, many more resonant peaks after binding - so I agree with you 😊
Hello, I am planning on re-binding my first guitar from 1982 in a walnut/maple rope binding. The body is mahogany with birdseye maple. It looks like I'm going to glue up each individual piece. I'm not sure which glue would be best. CA seeps into surrounding wood and securing each piece with Titebond might be very time consuming. Would thick CA glue be the solution? Or applying a coat of shellac to the surrounding corners prior to gluing? Any suggestions? Thank you.
Awesome Video!
Thanks!
Great Video! Thank you! My question is, when sealing the guitar to protect from CA glue wicking/staining...should the finish be what I will be using during the finishing process. In this video, you used Shellac, but for me, I will be finishing the guitar with PolyAcrylic. Should I do a preliminary seal with PolyAcrylic for protection during binding? Or would Shellac be okay for this step and then use the Poly later in the finishing process?
Looking forward to hearing your advice. Thanks again!
My big bogey is binding tilt due to a curved back (and perfectly vertical channels). I'll get there someday...
Great video, this is a genuinely helpful, the passionate about what you do comes through. If the binding shrinks and lifts around the waste, my guitar, do I need to strip it all off and reshape and glue it on again. In fact it's lifting and coming off in several places.
Wow, just found out about your channel. Very helpful video, I've struggled with binding too. I have a binding related question if I may ask... : How to you approach putting light colored wood binding on a guitar when you also want to put some colored stain on the guitar body ? do you stain the guitar before putting the binding on ? if so, how do you manage to use a scraper to trim the binding flush to the body without touching the body and removing any staining ? that was a difficult part for me on my last archtop... I would appreciate any tips. TIA.
Hey Marc, These days I only use French polish with shellac and keep things natural. But when I used to spray Nitro and do a lot of color work, I used to complete the guitars first and get it ready for finishing. Then seal the whole thing. Tape off the binding with 3m stripers tape. Spray the color on (stain mixed with Nitro). Remove the tape and then spray the clear coats over that. It is a very clean way to do it if you are using a finish that you can spray.
Many thanks for this interesting video.
When you are using shellac to protect the top, in which concentration is? Is the same for the finish of the top?
Thank you
Hi Miguel, I use a 1lb cut for sealing the wood. Then I use a 2lb cut for the finishing. You can get all the info and details in my free shellac guide here: theartoflutherie.com/shellac-handbook-for-french-polishing/?
I love your videos and this was very helpful. I used strapping tape I purchased at a local hardware store and the CA stuck it to my wood and made a mess to clean up. Is there some specific tape I need so it won’t leave behind so much of a mess???
what kind of shellac brand/blend do you use?
Great video. since you are doing your seal coat at the same time you are doing the binding, have you already final sanded and pore filled? seems like you are saving the binding for later in the build than most-- and for some really good reasons. Great tips!
Hey Greg, In the process of scraping and sanding the binding and purfling down, I also sand the whole guitar removing the shellac sealer and then doing the final tuning, followed by final sanding and preparation for the finish after that. The sealing at that binding stage is mainly to protect the surfaces during the gluing and taping process.
Awesome advice for beginners and even experienced luthiers.
I personally shellac the spruce/cedar top even before routing the binding channels. it helps a lot with the tear out on those unforgiving woods. Also keeps a cleaner edge without fuzz (using a good downcuting router bit helps too).
One more important tip I discovered (and it's not stressed enough in guitar making books IMHO) is to get your sides binding and subsequent top/back gluing perfect. Sides will determine the contour of the body, and bindings will make any asymmetry pop up like crazy. I'm making sure my edges are super square to top and back and that the sides comform to my mold perfectly before closing the box. There is no "it's fine I'll fix it later".
Great advice thanks for sharing your knowledge .
I understand what you are saying about the need to seal the open channels to keep the ca glue from wicking into the top or back, would there be any substitute for the shellac as it is very hard to come by in my area?
I used to use the vinyl sealer that McFadden made. Not sure if that is still around, but it was great for that type of thing but very toxic.
can you tell us what lb. cut of schalic you use for sealing the inside of the guitar
Thank you!
Great advice, thank you!
Excessive tape is brilliant; from an engineering perspective, you get optimal performance from the lowest ratio of bonding agent to material. Chemistry will tell you that the bonds are more organized and therefore stronger and transmit sound more efficiently as well, great tip my man.
This is a really helpful video. What method would you use when applying a synthetic or plastic binding? Is using Acetone a preferred method? Thank you !
Better late than never but I’ve had really good luck with the ivoroid plastic binding using the bind-all glue that StewMac sells.
Are you the actor who played the prince role in Enchanted?
thank you
Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best hair on UA-cam
I just avoid this by not using glue. I use acetone and if there is a gap, which hardly ever happens if you pay close attention, just melt a few shavings of binding and fill it in. Of course wood binding is a whole other ball game.
❤