The voltage at rest is not the same as voltage under load. There is a difference, which will be greater at higher loads and/or for more worn out batteries. That explains why you see different rest voltages for cut offs. For example, if tool/battery cut offs at exactly 14v - that will be voltage under load, so when you disconnect battery, a good one will recover to 14.9v (rest voltage), a "bad" one will recover to 16v. In other words, bad/worn battery is struggling to maintain its voltage under load. That is where capacity differences comes from. If a battery drops voltage more quickly - it will be the first one to cut off, thus producing less work.
I came in here to make this same comment. I would be curious to see what they report. Cheers for doing these videos. I run some Makita tools but quite often just chuck the battery on to charge when I am done, just so next time I'm good to go. Could be "wasting " charge cycles by being efficient.
Makita batteries have their own inbuilt low voltage cutout so I'm guessing the older 6ah knows that if it ran down any lower, it might rapidly drop voltage and risk cell damage. The newer one might be able to run longer as it is still fairly new.
@Tools&Stuff Please see if the Greenlee 120v to 18v adapters will work on Makita tools. They are made for Greenlee power tools that use Makita 18v batteries so I don't see why it wouldn't. Also would 2 of them ran to the same outlet work for powering a 36v tool. Would make a great video!
This is such a great tool. I hope everyone else copies it because being able to check battery health on what are now very expensive consumables would be such a bonus. I have had a lot of problems with batteries of all sorts of breeds. None seem to last that long. I think you were spot on with your heat theory. Although most chargers now won't charge a hot battery sometimes the damage is done whilst using the tool. Working on decks etc. with no shade in Australia in Summer I have had batteries plastic welded to the tool. I have had to cut them apart. That is hot. Has this then led to the faster demise of those batteries. The old batteries didn't have a thermal cut out in them. Most new ones I believe do. The electronics seem to be what fails. Same with the tools that get hot. The motor still lives but the electronics die. Are these things built tough enough to cope with Australian weather. I bet they have the opposite problem in places like Russia.
I live in the Sverdlovsk region. It is in Russia. I have a Makita DUC355Z chain saw. I often cut dry pine logs into chocks with this saw. When the temperature outside is below zero degrees Celsius, I keep spare batteries in the cab of the car. And when you are already working with a saw, the accumulators heat up during work and do not have time to cool down. But in frosts below minus 20 degrees Celsius, I did not use a saw. If the batteries are cooled below zero degrees Celsius, then it is almost impossible to use them with a saw. Perhaps they will work with a lower power tool. I have three pairs of batteries 6.5 and 3a / h, if you constantly cut with a saw and immediately change the batteries, then the saw does not have time to cool down and turns off due to overheating of the engine or control unit.
Talk about geeking out over battery health !!🤓Thanks heaps for posting this up . I gained alot of insight as to why some of my batteries suck and why others seem to run forever.
At 30:46 I can see a flash inside the battery (just above the white clamp). What is that?? Is there a small led inside or is that a spark from the bad cell??
Min: 13:49 The four bars on the battery mean as far as I know that the battery has a charge in between 75% and 100%. Three bars mean a charge between 50% and 75%, and so on. So it is possible that the battery at the moment you're looking at it has a charge between 75% and 80%, so that you get four bars on the battery and a still blinking blue light on the charger. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I've heard some comments suggesting that he should replace the damaged cell with a new one. As I understand Makita battery packs, this wouldn't work. I believe they have a micro controller that remembers what the state of the individual cells are, but doesn't refresh itself so it can't see new/replaced cells. Think of it like this. There is a business (the battery pack), a manager (the micro controller that monitors the battery), the employees (the individual cells), and the customers (the power, or watts, that go into and out from the battery). When the business (battery pack) is new, everything is working as it should. The manager (battery micro controller) is letting customers (power) in and out in a manner that won't hurt the employees (cells). The manager is also making sure that all employees (cells) are serving the customers (power) equally. However, lets say one of the employees (cells) gets sick. This employee can't serve the customers (power) the same as the other employees (cells). The manager (battery micro controller) writes this in it its notes, and starts to limit how many customers (power) the business (battery pack) as a whole can handle. This one employee (cell) is bringing down the capability of the business (battery pack) as a whole. Now lets say that this employee (cell) gets sicker and dies. The manager (battery micro controller) writes this in its notes, as it always keeps track of all its employees (cells) and their health. Because the business (battery pack) can only process customers (power) unless all the employees (cells) are working together, if one of the employees (cells) dies the business (battery pack) can't process any customers (power). Now say you come along and replace the dead employee (cell) with a new one. The manager (battery micro controller) doesn't update his notes, so it still thinks that the employee (cell) is dead and won't allow any customers (power) in or out. I've come across this lots trying to rebuild old laptop battery packs with new 18650 cells. The micro controller will brick a battery pack if a cell goes dead, or in some cases has been charged too many times.
I think it was ave that said, 3 separate times a charger attempts to charge & you get the dreaded broken battery signal it’s logged on the battery’s chip & will no longer charge that battery. So with an old 4amp it happened so I removed it & jumped from a healthy battery on charge same as you briefly described. That battery got to full charge & has been trouble free & chargeable for the last 12 months. For those out there that rely on their tools for work like me, do what you can to get them back to a charged state before trying them again in a Makita charger. Not saying it’ll work every time but it has worked for me.
I am not understanding what you did to get the old battery so that it will charge, can you explain it better? I have 5 or 6 batteries that are not that old or used that now are rechargeable. thanks
Older Makita 18V Batteries had a "three strikes and you're out" systems - after three faults being logged, the battery management board condemned the battery and it was pronounced dead (doesn't charge anymore, etc.). This doesn't apply to newer batteries where the model number ends in a B (e.g. BL1850B).
I got the btd142 back in 2007 and I still use it. The batteries that came with it are still decent. Their serial numbers start with 04. Money well spent.
With the QR code hold the phone at a distance where it can focus well. Then zoom in while holding at that distance. It is surprising how much detail you can get. Should be no problem to get in on that QR code. I often use this technique for inspecting drill tips and lathe tooling.
Thanks for testing the USB power. Some power banks won't put out power to something that has no batteries unless you press the battery level button on the power bank, at least from my experience.
It'd be interesting to see if someone could pull the faulty pack apart and see just how bad the bad cell is. I wonder if the run time difference between older and newer batteries is consistent across tools with different current draws. (since you get more voltage sag with higher current draw.
Grat tool to have... Do you know what happens if you *discharge a 18V battery with whatever tool (or test circuit): Will the battery itself disconnect internally to prevent a deep discharge,* or is the deep discharge only prevented on the tool side?
I don’t remember if this has been covered in the past. Do you have any tips on how to maintain battery health as long as possible? E.g. is it better to recharge a makita battery before it hits one bar? Also, does it matter if a battery is kept on the charger after it is fully charged? I run the xgt platform. Thanks
This are Li-Ion so I would apply same logic: do not go below 1 bar ..and once is charged you can unplug(not that important because charger will stop charging batt). Also charge slowly if you can wait
Hey man, very interesting video. Have you tried one of the fake 18v Makita batteries on that yet? would be interesting to see what the difference is in them, i got a 6Ah fake one and it is defiantly not equal to a legit Makita battery. cheers
Hi. What I would really like to understand..how /when is the balancing happen. Is charger triggering it via the yellow port? or is the BMS inside discharing cells over 4.2v? The ideea is that I would like to charge from solar and I can set 20.5v on - / + and just not sure if I need to be worried about balancing
I burned up a mud boot while gang cutting a pile of rebar with a hot saw once. Pissed me off, they were high dollar mud boots. Can't have anything nice. Also, did you buy one if those brushless finish sanders from Japan??? Last I looked there is one left. Also, a different style drywall screwgun. Brushless, black, push activated. Badass. And, also, how do you like the band file? I'm trying to choose between that and the new brushless oscillator. I have the brushed oscillator already. Is it worth the jump? Lot's of questions...
@@kenleach2516 yessir, nice repurposing! A place for everything and everything in its place right👍. Lmao if anyone could see my suv or garage right now…😅what a mess.
It seems to me that the Milwaukee batteries have a cutoff point where they do not work after a certain discharge percentage. I have never had a dead battery from them. My nearly ten year old 3.0 M18 batteries still work. Albeit they are quite anemic at this point.
I was so hoping you'd put a 5Ah on the blower to compare to the 6Ah. You have me gunshy to use my 6Ah when I need longer run time. You said you'd test non-Makita batteries on that thing, I thought. Also, you need a slow charger, or a Banggood charger. Remember, huge accidental fire videos go viral! 😳 Just saying'.
Can you power the makita power checker with the duff battery from Mitchel ? Like the info so far keep up the good work. Just checked when you uploaded this I guess mitchel’s battery has been bin 🗑 by now 🤷🏼♂️
i found that, through intense scrutiny and testing, i could safely charge a locked out battery using an el cheapo brand nimh 20v charger with a special bespoke adapter to charge it up. it takes 9 hours and doesnt have the guts to overcharge it. i tested for this accidentally when i forgot about it for about 30 hours. so i now use it through a timer set at 9 hours. for safety reasons this has always been charged in an empty fireproof tin shed with a concrete floor. only older drills and drivers will work with it.
Mate, you should’ve used Mich’s fucked battery to power up the btc04. I reckon it would’ve worked, considering it only has to pump out 5v or so. Thanks for the previous video on the btc04, after watching it, I purchased one on eBay from Japan👍
Very interesting. From watching other videos where people replace faulty cells in makita batteries they say if you put a faulty battery on a charger three times it will lock the chip on the battery and will refuse to charge even once the cells have been replaced. Only way to sort it is to change the pcb as well. Can anybody confirm this?
😂🤣No worries I put myself in fire with a demo saw working reinforced concrete renovating a ramp. Not in video but my coworkers on that site enjoyed the spectacle. Better to need new pants than get a broke jaw from splatting a passer by lmao
one area i find very interesting here is the behaviour of the chip inside the battery. because if you have a spot welder you can replace the original cells inside of an official makita battery. but the chip inside the batter will still have the old charging data from the old dead or ruined cells. that are now removed. so it remains a pretty open question around what specific conditions or fault modes that the makita battery itself will permit this type of a replacement to actual work. and result in a working battery. for example if a fault mode cannot be reset or cleared. or if the firmware on the chip will flag or detect a 'sudden improvement' and then stop working. i.e. brick itself. and we can be fairly sure that the much newer recent 40v platform will likely have much more modern and secure DRM mechanisms and measures built into it. when compared to the early 18v batteries. as for recent modern newest revisions of 18v batteries well i have no idea where they sit on this broad spectrum. but what i do know is that a device like your makita battery checker would be a pretty helpful piece of equipment to help find out more about these specific measures. if it were in the hands of a reasonably competent electronic engineer. another open question i have is about current limiting the output of these batteries. because if you could find a way to do this affordably, for 20-40 amps of current. then it would be possible to use one of these batteries to fast charge a dead car battery. but in a safe way without discharging the makita battery too quickly. which would then end up damaging / jeopoardizing the smaller power tool battery. and shortening its lifetime. people have already demonstrated that this basic technique works. but always it has been done in an uncontrolled fashion by directly connecting to the battery with thick guage wires. and without any way to limit the charging current to keep it within a safe value. the actual safe maximum value varies considerably. as it depends on the size of they battery and also the quality of its cells used. anyhow enough about these pet electronics projects. it is just interesting curiosity subject
One way to charge a 12v lead acid is with a dc-dc buck convertor set to 13.5v that can limit the current to say 5a..and also make sure not to drop below 15v on makita batt side.
@@cgmarch2359 haha yes!! actually i had previously considered that but then forgot all about it. thanks for reminding me. the main problem with that method is: most of these cheap chinese buck converter OCP feature the maximum current limit is usually a lot lower than the safe discharge capability of these power tool battery. it may be only 5 amps (just like you say). in this situation then we cannot take advantage of fast charging to then jump start the engine. for example if you are late for work on a cold winter day. then you really do not want to wait for longer than about 5 minutes for the thing to be trickle charging. a higher current limit is preferred
@@dreamcat4 Well the cheap ones can do 8amps .. you can parallel 2 or 3 .Or you could use a high power rezistor (maybe 1ohm or 0.5ohm) on - or + to limit current. The ideea is just to get the lead acid charged for engine start right?
@@cgmarch2359 correct. just so the engine can get going. just checked about paralleling buck converters... unfortunately you cannot parallel buck converters together according to the most popular stackexchange answer. the reason cited is same reason as for any other regular psu. you get high currents feeding back from one output positive rail back into the other one. for my last research, i found that something like a solar PPT charge converter would work well. for these voltage and current ranges. however they are really too expensive your suggestion of using a power resistor might work however it would probably be pretty wasteful all on its own. a large fraction of the energy of the battery would be lost into the power resistor perhaps what might be the answer is just a fairly simple custom circuit. consisting of a pwm switching offset with some kind of LC averaging smoothing. with a little arduino type MCU to control the mosfet switching. i guess then you also want a shunt restistor to measure the current going through. but maybe it's not a constant current. so the MCU firmware might need to do some simple integration of the input from the ADC. area under the graph. i cannot see anything particularly difficult about making a circuit like that. so long as it was well built and robust enough to handle the high currents. and maybe it isn't strictly necessary to smooth out the mosfet switching. however just for the sake of protecting the mosfet in the charging circuit from blowing itself up due to high inrush currents. since the batteries are of a very low impedence they kindda present and look like a dead short
where did you get that battery checker? makita gave it to ? looked into getting one....1400$ seems steep haha great vid as per usual...cheers from canada ';
They are doing all the easy to adapt tools first. I don't know why so many people expected an 80v saw from a 40v system. I'm guessing next we will see the rear handle with 1 40v, then a beefed up version with 2 batteries... but who the fuck knows.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL With or without COVID, I was fully expecting the single battery and then the double battery. I’m just being a bit cheeky. I came into LXT way late and you can imagine just how spoiled I am thanks to that. We’ve hit critical mass with shortages, container ships/cargo, and factory outbreaks and I’m impressed that they’re getting anything to stores. They’re shipping more than thirty new LXT/XGT SKU’s in the US this month. Uncanny.
Makita is the apple of batteries lol I had no idea how much info was stored on these batteries, almost like the snap on batteries but you can actually check the discharge count by holding the battery level button for a few seconds
If a lithium battery pack has a dead cell/pair of cells it will NEVER charge again unless you replace those cells. Just cant be done and you also cannot boost or kickstart the battery successfully. Might work on an unmanaged battery pack that relies on the charger and the tools to manage it but still its risky to do this. If the cells are dead they are dead they will never really recover. The battery management board inside the battery pack essentially locks out the battery if it detects that for safety reasons. When lithium batteries go out of their specified voltage range they become a bit unpredictable. The voltages are 4.2V MAX when fully charged although Makita chargers seem to cut out just below that and 2.5V is the lowest allowable discharge cut off voltage. So just stop and remove the battery from the tool when its depleted and starts cutting out or when the low battery indicator is on and you loose power.
I don't understand why Makita can't make these 40V batteries compatible with the 18V. The battery could just offer 3 connections: common, 18V and 40V. Then they could stop selling their 18V batteries, but still use the 18V appliances.
You need to take a look at how these batteries are designed, then perhaps you will realise that what you suggest is a step backwards and would inhibit future tool progress.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL you mean the internals? It the physical connections? As the 40V 3Ah is just the same as 18V 6Ah, but wired differently, you could combine both configurations with diodes or switching by the control circuit.
My first Makita Battery Checker video ua-cam.com/video/uumwieLu8CE/v-deo.html
ⒼⓇⒶⒷ ⓄⓃⒺ ⒽⒺⓇⒺ
ebay.us/amSrSI
Thanks man!
The voltage at rest is not the same as voltage under load. There is a difference, which will be greater at higher loads and/or for more worn out batteries. That explains why you see different rest voltages for cut offs. For example, if tool/battery cut offs at exactly 14v - that will be voltage under load, so when you disconnect battery, a good one will recover to 14.9v (rest voltage), a "bad" one will recover to 16v. In other words, bad/worn battery is struggling to maintain its voltage under load. That is where capacity differences comes from. If a battery drops voltage more quickly - it will be the first one to cut off, thus producing less work.
Curious if the fake batteries or chips you can buy will log all the same details as oem Makita??
I came in here to make this same comment. I would be curious to see what they report.
Cheers for doing these videos.
I run some Makita tools but quite often just chuck the battery on to charge when I am done, just so next time I'm good to go. Could be "wasting " charge cycles by being efficient.
Makita batteries have their own inbuilt low voltage cutout so I'm guessing the older 6ah knows that if it ran down any lower, it might rapidly drop voltage and risk cell damage. The newer one might be able to run longer as it is still fairly new.
@Tools&Stuff Please see if the Greenlee 120v to 18v adapters will work on Makita tools. They are made for Greenlee power tools that use Makita 18v batteries so I don't see why it wouldn't. Also would 2 of them ran to the same outlet work for powering a 36v tool. Would make a great video!
This is such a great tool. I hope everyone else copies it because being able to check battery health on what are now very expensive consumables would be such a bonus. I have had a lot of problems with batteries of all sorts of breeds. None seem to last that long. I think you were spot on with your heat theory. Although most chargers now won't charge a hot battery sometimes the damage is done whilst using the tool. Working on decks etc. with no shade in Australia in Summer I have had batteries plastic welded to the tool. I have had to cut them apart. That is hot. Has this then led to the faster demise of those batteries. The old batteries didn't have a thermal cut out in them. Most new ones I believe do. The electronics seem to be what fails. Same with the tools that get hot. The motor still lives but the electronics die. Are these things built tough enough to cope with Australian weather. I bet they have the opposite problem in places like Russia.
I get a lot of people ask me that I need to test the tools in snow to see how good they do in the cold but not a lot of snow here in Auckland.
I live in the Sverdlovsk region. It is in Russia. I have a Makita DUC355Z chain saw. I often cut dry pine logs into chocks with this saw. When the temperature outside is below zero degrees Celsius, I keep spare batteries in the cab of the car. And when you are already working with a saw, the accumulators heat up during work and do not have time to cool down. But in frosts below minus 20 degrees Celsius, I did not use a saw. If the batteries are cooled below zero degrees Celsius, then it is almost impossible to use them with a saw. Perhaps they will work with a lower power tool. I have three pairs of batteries 6.5 and 3a / h, if you constantly cut with a saw and immediately change the batteries, then the saw does not have time to cool down and turns off due to overheating of the engine or control unit.
Talk about geeking out over battery health !!🤓Thanks heaps for posting this up . I gained alot of insight as to why some of my batteries suck and why others seem to run forever.
At 30:46 I can see a flash inside the battery (just above the white clamp). What is that?? Is there a small led inside or is that a spark from the bad cell??
That is definitely a spark! Upvote the comment, the dude has a ticking bomb in his house.
Not a spark. It's the lamp reflecting off the plastic.
Min: 13:49
The four bars on the battery mean as far as I know that the battery has a charge in between 75% and 100%. Three bars mean a charge between 50% and 75%, and so on.
So it is possible that the battery at the moment you're looking at it has a charge between 75% and 80%, so that you get four bars on the battery and a still blinking blue light on the charger.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I've heard some comments suggesting that he should replace the damaged cell with a new one. As I understand Makita battery packs, this wouldn't work. I believe they have a micro controller that remembers what the state of the individual cells are, but doesn't refresh itself so it can't see new/replaced cells.
Think of it like this.
There is a business (the battery pack), a manager (the micro controller that monitors the battery), the employees (the individual cells), and the customers (the power, or watts, that go into and out from the battery).
When the business (battery pack) is new, everything is working as it should. The manager (battery micro controller) is letting customers (power) in and out in a manner that won't hurt the employees (cells). The manager is also making sure that all employees (cells) are serving the customers (power) equally. However, lets say one of the employees (cells) gets sick. This employee can't serve the customers (power) the same as the other employees (cells). The manager (battery micro controller) writes this in it its notes, and starts to limit how many customers (power) the business (battery pack) as a whole can handle. This one employee (cell) is bringing down the capability of the business (battery pack) as a whole. Now lets say that this employee (cell) gets sicker and dies. The manager (battery micro controller) writes this in its notes, as it always keeps track of all its employees (cells) and their health. Because the business (battery pack) can only process customers (power) unless all the employees (cells) are working together, if one of the employees (cells) dies the business (battery pack) can't process any customers (power). Now say you come along and replace the dead employee (cell) with a new one. The manager (battery micro controller) doesn't update his notes, so it still thinks that the employee (cell) is dead and won't allow any customers (power) in or out.
I've come across this lots trying to rebuild old laptop battery packs with new 18650 cells. The micro controller will brick a battery pack if a cell goes dead, or in some cases has been charged too many times.
I think it was ave that said, 3 separate times a charger attempts to charge & you get the dreaded broken battery signal it’s logged on the battery’s chip & will no longer charge that battery. So with an old 4amp it happened so I removed it & jumped from a healthy battery on charge same as you briefly described. That battery got to full charge & has been trouble free & chargeable for the last 12 months. For those out there that rely on their tools for work like me, do what you can to get them back to a charged state before trying them again in a Makita charger. Not saying it’ll work every time but it has worked for me.
I am not understanding what you did to get the old battery so that it will charge, can you explain it better? I have 5 or 6 batteries that are not that old or used that now are rechargeable. thanks
Older Makita 18V Batteries had a "three strikes and you're out" systems - after three faults being logged, the battery management board condemned the battery and it was pronounced dead (doesn't charge anymore, etc.). This doesn't apply to newer batteries where the model number ends in a B (e.g. BL1850B).
I got the btd142 back in 2007 and I still use it. The batteries that came with it are still decent. Their serial numbers start with 04. Money well spent.
With the QR code hold the phone at a distance where it can focus well. Then zoom in while holding at that distance. It is surprising how much detail you can get. Should be no problem to get in on that QR code. I often use this technique for inspecting drill tips and lathe tooling.
Thanks for testing the USB power. Some power banks won't put out power to something that has no batteries unless you press the battery level button on the power bank, at least from my experience.
Interesting, would much rather this could also be used as a charger though and be included in (at least some) kits.
That’s what was in the black bag!! I shoulda known. I been wanting one for years😆. Nice bud.
Jest sposób na wyzerowanie liczenia w przypadku przebudowy akumulatora i włożenia nowych 18650?
It'd be interesting to see if someone could pull the faulty pack apart and see just how bad the bad cell is.
I wonder if the run time difference between older and newer batteries is consistent across tools with different current draws. (since you get more voltage sag with higher current draw.
Grat tool to have... Do you know what happens if you *discharge a 18V battery with whatever tool (or test circuit): Will the battery itself disconnect internally to prevent a deep discharge,* or is the deep discharge only prevented on the tool side?
I don’t remember if this has been covered in the past. Do you have any tips on how to maintain battery health as long as possible? E.g. is it better to recharge a makita battery before it hits one bar? Also, does it matter if a battery is kept on the charger after it is fully charged? I run the xgt platform. Thanks
This are Li-Ion so I would apply same logic: do not go below 1 bar ..and once is charged you can unplug(not that important because charger will stop charging batt). Also charge slowly if you can wait
Keep it between 20 and 80 percent charge is what they say
Hey man, very interesting video. Have you tried one of the fake 18v Makita batteries on that yet? would be interesting to see what the difference is in them, i got a 6Ah fake one and it is defiantly not equal to a legit Makita battery. cheers
Hi. What I would really like to understand..how /when is the balancing happen. Is charger triggering it via the yellow port? or is the BMS inside discharing cells over 4.2v? The ideea is that I would like to charge from solar and I can set 20.5v on - / + and just not sure if I need to be worried about balancing
I burned up a mud boot while gang cutting a pile of rebar with a hot saw once. Pissed me off, they were high dollar mud boots. Can't have anything nice.
Also, did you buy one if those brushless finish sanders from Japan??? Last I looked there is one left. Also, a different style drywall screwgun. Brushless, black, push activated. Badass.
And, also, how do you like the band file? I'm trying to choose between that and the new brushless oscillator. I have the brushed oscillator already. Is it worth the jump?
Lot's of questions...
I use a hPT multivolt battery with a single bad cell for my flashlights now. That had me frustratedly
I use my old half life battery to run my makita radio, best place for it.
@@kenleach2516 yessir, nice repurposing! A place for everything and everything in its place right👍. Lmao if anyone could see my suv or garage right now…😅what a mess.
It seems to me that the Milwaukee batteries have a cutoff point where they do not work after a certain discharge percentage.
I have never had a dead battery from them. My nearly ten year old 3.0 M18 batteries still work. Albeit they are quite anemic at this point.
I was so hoping you'd put a 5Ah on the blower to compare to the 6Ah. You have me gunshy to use my 6Ah when I need longer run time.
You said you'd test non-Makita batteries on that thing, I thought. Also, you need a slow charger, or a Banggood charger.
Remember, huge accidental fire videos go viral! 😳 Just saying'.
Can you power the makita power checker with the duff battery from Mitchel ? Like the info so far keep up the good work. Just checked when you uploaded this I guess mitchel’s battery has been bin 🗑 by now 🤷🏼♂️
Epic video, tonnes of info!
i found that, through intense scrutiny and testing, i could safely charge a locked out battery using an el cheapo brand nimh 20v charger with a special bespoke adapter to charge it up. it takes 9 hours and doesnt have the guts to overcharge it. i tested for this accidentally when i forgot about it for about 30 hours. so i now use it through a timer set at 9 hours. for safety reasons this has always been charged in an empty fireproof tin shed with a concrete floor. only older drills and drivers will work with it.
The tool battery factory in China is producing 40V Makita chargers. After three months, you will buy cheap Makita chargers, which are very practical.
Mate, you should’ve used Mich’s fucked battery to power up the btc04. I reckon it would’ve worked, considering it only has to pump out 5v or so. Thanks for the previous video on the btc04, after watching it, I purchased one on eBay from Japan👍
Why dont you order replacement cells off the net and repack them?
Does the battery checker work without the SD card, or do i need to buy it too?
It runs without the SD card.
How many recharge cycles do Makita batteries hold up, before you'd have to buy a replacement?
I'm into the 300's on some of my batteries and still strong.
Makita always
Mid 200's price on eBay recently. I lucked out and picked one up for 32.00. 😎
Very interesting. From watching other videos where people replace faulty cells in makita batteries they say if you put a faulty battery on a charger three times it will lock the chip on the battery and will refuse to charge even once the cells have been replaced. Only way to sort it is to change the pcb as well. Can anybody confirm this?
Confirm
Applies only to older revisions, this isn't the case for batteries sold in the last ~5 years.
Hey Tools & Stuff! I’m looking where i could buy the makita xgt 5.0 ah battery? Do you happen to know anywhere i could get it shipped to the US?
Shipping from outside the states would require a dangerous goods permit due to the output of these batteries, so would be bloody expensive.
Thanks for writing "ta" on the duct tape 👍
Please do which brand makes the best multi tool, tools and stuff
Did you watch all of this video...
Makita xD
do you have any information on when the xgt right angle drill (hole hawg) will come out?
It has been released, but it depends on where you live.
😂🤣No worries I put myself in fire with a demo saw working reinforced concrete renovating a ramp. Not in video but my coworkers on that site enjoyed the spectacle. Better to need new pants than get a broke jaw from splatting a passer by lmao
What would happen if you put a DeWalt, Metabo, or Milwaukee battery on an adapter and put it on the Makita battery checker?
ua-cam.com/video/uumwieLu8CE/v-deo.html
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL I should have known that was one of the first things you would do.
Funny. I thought this episode was the tool from Japan review. C the New Hikoki 36V Brushless trim router. Next one maybe. 🙏🏾🤞🏾😆🤙🏾
Maybe...😉
🤞🏾☕🙏🏾😉😆
Thank you!
How long will the 40v 5ah run the blower for on max
That will be in the blower video I'm still filming.
one area i find very interesting here is the behaviour of the chip inside the battery. because if you have a spot welder you can replace the original cells inside of an official makita battery. but the chip inside the batter will still have the old charging data from the old dead or ruined cells. that are now removed. so it remains a pretty open question around what specific conditions or fault modes that the makita battery itself will permit this type of a replacement to actual work. and result in a working battery. for example if a fault mode cannot be reset or cleared. or if the firmware on the chip will flag or detect a 'sudden improvement' and then stop working. i.e. brick itself. and we can be fairly sure that the much newer recent 40v platform will likely have much more modern and secure DRM mechanisms and measures built into it. when compared to the early 18v batteries. as for recent modern newest revisions of 18v batteries well i have no idea where they sit on this broad spectrum. but what i do know is that a device like your makita battery checker would be a pretty helpful piece of equipment to help find out more about these specific measures. if it were in the hands of a reasonably competent electronic engineer.
another open question i have is about current limiting the output of these batteries. because if you could find a way to do this affordably, for 20-40 amps of current. then it would be possible to use one of these batteries to fast charge a dead car battery. but in a safe way without discharging the makita battery too quickly. which would then end up damaging / jeopoardizing the smaller power tool battery. and shortening its lifetime. people have already demonstrated that this basic technique works. but always it has been done in an uncontrolled fashion by directly connecting to the battery with thick guage wires. and without any way to limit the charging current to keep it within a safe value. the actual safe maximum value varies considerably. as it depends on the size of they battery and also the quality of its cells used. anyhow enough about these pet electronics projects. it is just interesting curiosity subject
One way to charge a 12v lead acid is with a dc-dc buck convertor set to 13.5v that can limit the current to say 5a..and also make sure not to drop below 15v on makita batt side.
@@cgmarch2359 haha yes!! actually i had previously considered that but then forgot all about it. thanks for reminding me. the main problem with that method is: most of these cheap chinese buck converter OCP feature the maximum current limit is usually a lot lower than the safe discharge capability of these power tool battery. it may be only 5 amps (just like you say). in this situation then we cannot take advantage of fast charging to then jump start the engine. for example if you are late for work on a cold winter day. then you really do not want to wait for longer than about 5 minutes for the thing to be trickle charging. a higher current limit is preferred
@@dreamcat4 Well the cheap ones can do 8amps .. you can parallel 2 or 3 .Or you could use a high power rezistor (maybe 1ohm or 0.5ohm) on - or + to limit current. The ideea is just to get the lead acid charged for engine start right?
@@cgmarch2359 correct. just so the engine can get going.
just checked about paralleling buck converters... unfortunately you cannot parallel buck converters together according to the most popular stackexchange answer. the reason cited is same reason as for any other regular psu. you get high currents feeding back from one output positive rail back into the other one.
for my last research, i found that something like a solar PPT charge converter would work well. for these voltage and current ranges. however they are really too expensive
your suggestion of using a power resistor might work however it would probably be pretty wasteful all on its own. a large fraction of the energy of the battery would be lost into the power resistor
perhaps what might be the answer is just a fairly simple custom circuit. consisting of a pwm switching offset with some kind of LC averaging smoothing. with a little arduino type MCU to control the mosfet switching. i guess then you also want a shunt restistor to measure the current going through. but maybe it's not a constant current. so the MCU firmware might need to do some simple integration of the input from the ADC. area under the graph. i cannot see anything particularly difficult about making a circuit like that. so long as it was well built and robust enough to handle the high currents. and maybe it isn't strictly necessary to smooth out the mosfet switching. however just for the sake of protecting the mosfet in the charging circuit from blowing itself up due to high inrush currents. since the batteries are of a very low impedence they kindda present and look like a dead short
where did you get that battery checker? makita gave it to ? looked into getting one....1400$ seems steep haha
great vid as per usual...cheers from canada
';
There's a lot more on ebay cheaper than that at the moment. Link in the description.
250.00 or so now.
Radio seems to discharge the battery to 0 … doesn’t have the third pin on the connector
Stick a good 18v battery onto the dead one to charge it
Can that thing test my patience now that Makita announced the first XGT chainsaw and it’s: a.) Not x2 80v and b.) Is a top handle ?
They are doing all the easy to adapt tools first. I don't know why so many people expected an 80v saw from a 40v system. I'm guessing next we will see the rear handle with 1 40v, then a beefed up version with 2 batteries... but who the fuck knows.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL With or without COVID, I was fully expecting the single battery and then the double battery. I’m just being a bit cheeky. I came into LXT way late and you can imagine just how spoiled I am thanks to that. We’ve hit critical mass with shortages, container ships/cargo, and factory outbreaks and I’m impressed that they’re getting anything to stores. They’re shipping more than thirty new LXT/XGT SKU’s in the US this month. Uncanny.
Makita is the apple of batteries lol I had no idea how much info was stored on these batteries, almost like the snap on batteries but you can actually check the discharge count by holding the battery level button for a few seconds
ta funkcja powinna być w każdej ładowarce. To oszustwo że wyświetlacza z tymi informacjami nie ma w każdej ładowarce.
I have an idea, Fire & Stuff
400-500 bucks is too much for that checker. I want one though
About 250.00 now
If a lithium battery pack has a dead cell/pair of cells it will NEVER charge again unless you replace those cells. Just cant be done and you also cannot boost or kickstart the battery successfully.
Might work on an unmanaged battery pack that relies on the charger and the tools to manage it but still its risky to do this.
If the cells are dead they are dead they will never really recover.
The battery management board inside the battery pack essentially locks out the battery if it detects that for safety reasons.
When lithium batteries go out of their specified voltage range they become a bit unpredictable. The voltages are 4.2V MAX when fully charged although Makita chargers seem to cut out just below that and 2.5V is the lowest allowable discharge cut off voltage.
So just stop and remove the battery from the tool when its depleted and starts cutting out or when the low battery indicator is on and you loose power.
so one can sell battery charged almost completely 100500 times as new w/o charges? 😂
A VERY HANDY TOOL IF YOU USE ALL MAKITA TOOLS..BIT PRICEY THOUGH 🤷
Handy Hardware needs to sell gift cards.
I have asked about this. They can put credit straight into their computer system under your account.
I don't understand why Makita can't make these 40V batteries compatible with the 18V. The battery could just offer 3 connections: common, 18V and 40V. Then they could stop selling their 18V batteries, but still use the 18V appliances.
You need to take a look at how these batteries are designed, then perhaps you will realise that what you suggest is a step backwards and would inhibit future tool progress.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL you mean the internals? It the physical connections? As the 40V 3Ah is just the same as 18V 6Ah, but wired differently, you could combine both configurations with diodes or switching by the control circuit.
Damn $500 for a batttery checker