New Feature in Easel: DRILL OPERATION! Time to Test it Out
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- The new drill feature in Easel put to the test. Easel is a Free Software by Inventables. This new feature is a long over due feature that many have waited for a long time. The folks at Inventables are continuing to make improvements to the software.
Here is a link to this project:
easel.inventabl...
My email is: PawPawsWorkShop411@gmail.com
Nice video,paw paw....i want to mention to paw paw and anyone who machines particle board and mdf and even plywoods...since these have many chemicals and glues in them ....great caution should be taken when machining....respirators...ventilation etc.....highly toxic to inhale the dust.... Paw paw you do great work...
Thank you for your comments. I use a respirator for many of the cuts as well as dust collection system and a whole shop air cleaner. I also am constantly looking for better dust control systems.
Thanks for the info. You have been the only source I could find that has let me know what the new mysterious icon was on easel👍🏽
Awesome, thank you. I'm glad I could do it
Great tutorial, great pace, great flow. Thanks for it.
Awesome! Thank you very much.
Awesome video as always paw paw...thank you for the link
Thank you very much.
"Exciting ew Projects" ...first time I noticed that!!
It's not bad, however, I do not use it much.
thanks a lot
You’re most welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for another great video Phil ! Have you considered an up-cut bit for drilling? That way the chips would be lifted out of the hole keeping the bit cooler, vs. pushing the chips down into the hole ?
Don DeSpain. Thank you for your comments. I think you are right, however, the only 1/4” bit that I had was a downcut spiral bit. I am going to try a regular drill bit. I see no reason that it would not work. What are your thoughts?
I tried a regular 1/8 bit for a test and it seemed to work ok, but I am not sure how long the bit will hold up. It got better after I slowed the plunge rate down to 6 in. per minute and just did .25 inch depth per pass setting on a 3/4 hole, (so basically 3 "dips") . I will have to keep playing with it for a cribbage board idea I have been planning, and see what research I can find on it. It looks like a good feature though !
Thank you. I have not had time to try anything yet. I'll start with this information
I'm still a newbie to my xcarve. Loving it! I've just been using the 1/8" shank bits I got with the machine. Just ordered a 1/4" collet. Haven't used it yet. I'm assuming after watching this that the spindle will handle this fine. Thanks for sharing the video and the file.
If you are using 1/8" bits with the Dewalt 611 router, then the adapter is already inside the spindle. To use 1/4" bits, just remove the adapter. The router is made for 1/4" bits as this is the most common use. After all it is a trim router and most bits are 1/4".
Paw Paw’s WorkShop didn't think about that. Nice!
It's all part of the process of learning. It sounds like you are doing great!
Great video, the project I'm working on require holes to be 8 holes in a 2.250 diameter circular shape with 9th hole dead center of the diameter. what is going to be the best way to do that?
Use the array app for the eight holes and the ninth hole for the center. Align everything in the center of you work piece. You can do it.
@@PawPawsWorkShop got it thanks. now to remove a work piece I no longer need?
Have you done anymore with the drill function? I’m thinking about using it to drill out my new waste board. I’m using 3/4” MDF drilling 110 1/4” holes through depth. Do you have any recommended feeds and speeds? Would using a upcut help with the burning that you encountered?
Yes, use a upcut bit. As far as the rates, start slow and increase to see how your machine handles it. Everyone will be a little different.
I am new to xCarve as many people are. I'm trying to make a board game where marbles are used as playing pieces so I need shallow, round bottom holes for the marbles to sit in. I'm using 1/2" birch plywood with the drill function and a 1/2" dia. round bottom bit. I've tried several different router speeds and plunge rates, but they all seem to burn the wood to varying degrees. Any ideas how to prevent the burning?
The bit that you need is a core box bit. Forget the drill function. That often causes problems. Design the hole for a 1/2” along with the desired depth. Most likely about an 1/8” deep. Get a 3/8” core box bit. In easel, I assume you are using easel, set up a custom bit or even a straight bit to the 3/8” diameter. If you can’t get the 3/8”, you need any size smaller than the 1/2” hole. Just set the bit size in easel to the diameter of the bit that you are going to use.
Hello PawPaw...Does the drill operation or other operation allow creating 6 sided pockets to hold a nut?thanks...Paw Paw.....
No, you have to design that on you own. Use a caliper to get the correct size.
To get started use the polygon app in Easel. You can select the number of sides. You need the calipers to get the correct diameter.
also, you got any tips on using the combine feature? when I use it, half or more of my drawing disappears
I'll have to do a video on the combine feature for you. I'm sure that it will help others as well. Thank you
Nice video. The problem with the drill feature is positioning accurately. If you have a design made outside easel and it requires holes. How are you going to use this feature? How can you accurately place the drill tool? I don't see any way to do it with easel.
You can use the drop down menu in Easel and set the x,y position exactly where you want it by keying in the specific numbers.
Thank you. You solved my problem. I didn't realize I could do that in easel. @@PawPawsWorkShop
What big box store sells endmills?
Adam York. Home Depot and Lowe’s both carry the 1/4” spiral bit
they are just router bits
how'd you change bits without moving x and y axis?
Typically people over tighten the bits in the router. When you over tighten you will almost always move the x,y axis when changing the bits. The key is to get the bit snug so that it will not move but not to over tighten. Same with the belts on the XCarve and the V-wheels. People have a strong tendency to over tighten both of these as well. Adjust the V-wheels so that everything is square and true and make sure that you are able to move the wheels with you fingers slightly. It has been suggested that the belts should be 4.5 lbs when pulled one inch. The gantry should be moved to the far side. My belts are closer to 4 lbs. Everything works great and I have not had to replace belts or V-wheels.
Don't over tighten the bits in the router.
Why not aluminium?
Frank James. Not in the budget. Fixed income means scrap bin projects. Aluminum would be great. Thank you
Ah, ok...
I have just bought an xcarve 500... Saving for a laptop...
Meanwhile, struggling to get to grips with easel ...
New to CNC ... Retired woodworker...
I remember starting out and struggling with Easel. This is one of the main reasons that I started making videos. Most are of using Easel and the XCarve. I hope that it will help others into this fun and exciting world. Although I have been doing woodworking for over fifty years, the CNC world is completely different. It has opened up a whole new area of woodworking.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Another retired joiner(carpenter) here. Just bought a Chinese 6040 cnc. Looking forward to learning with it. Thank you for your videos they've been a big help so far.