Mercedes ML500 Oil Cooler and Filter Housing Seals, Pressure Port Gasket M112 M113 engines FULL DIY
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- This video is a full bolt-by-bolt DIY for replacing the oil cooler seals (o-rings, gaskets), the oil filter housing seal, and the pressure port (aka timing cover plug or expansion plug) gaskets. The repairs are shown on W163's - a 2005 ML500 and a 2003 ML350. Check the Pinned Comment for more information.
Timestamps, Part numbers, Torque values, Links:
00:22 Diagnostics for these oil leaks
03:15 Loosen the oil filter assembly (use a 14 flute, 74mm cap wrench)
03:58 Drain the engine oil, remove the drain plug and gasket (13mm)
04:55 Info on the drain plug gasket (MB part A0007-603-014-106)
05:28 Install the drain plug and new gasket (torque is 30 Nm or 22 ft-lbs)
06:06 Remove the serpentine belt (17mm)
08:07 Locate the four T30 fasteners on the oil cooler and decide if you want to remove the air pump for better access
08:40 Remove the air pump
09:45 Remove four T30 fasteners for the oil cooler
11:22 Remove the oil filter assembly from the oil filter housing
11:49 Important notes about the required special 46mm socket and extensions for the oil filter housing removal
14:55 Loosen the big oil filter housing union bolt (46mm)
15:57 My setup - a huge 40" breaker bar (Tekton SBH00340 with Nieko extension 00236A)
16:16 Remove the oil filter housing from the timing case cover
17:00 Remove and replace the oil filter housing seals on the bench:
- oil cooler seals are MB parts 112-184-02-61 and 112-184-03-61
19:29 Remove and replace the oil filter housing seal on the timing case cover:
- MB part is 112-184-00-61
20:50 Install the oil filter housing to the timing case cover
22:49 Install the 46mm union bolt to the oil filter housing: torque is 70 Nm or 52 ft-lbs
23:40 Info on the Pressure port/Expansion plug gasket (overview and approaches)
25:16 Remove the Pressure port plug (optional, H6 or 6mm Allen)
- Port plug copper gasket MB part number is 007603-012110
- install torque for the plug & copper gasket is 20 Nm (177 inch-lbs)
26:11 Remove the two E10 bolts to remove the Pressure port plate and rubber gasket
27:46 Detail of the pressure port plate and gasket on the bench
- "new" style plate part number is 112-015-06-30
- "new" style gasket part number is 112-184-02-80
30:45 Clean the bolts and bolt holes before re-installing the plate
31:00 Install the plate with a new gasket; torque is very low, just 8 Nm (71 inch-lbs, 5.9 ft-lbs)
32:36 Install the new o-rings and oil filter to the filter assembly (Mann HU718/5x fleece filter)
37:19 Install the oil filter assembly to the oil filter housing (torque is 25 Nm or 18.5 ft-lbs)
37:52 Install the four T30 bolts for the oil cooler to the oil filter housing
- for M113 engine: torque is 9 Nm or 80 inch-lbs;
- for M112 engine: torque is 11 Nm or 97 inch-lbs
40:25 Install the air pump (torque for the E10 bolt is 12 Nm or 9 ft-lbs)
41:40 Install the belt (17mm)
45:06 Refill with engine oil (for ML500, refill is about 8.0 L or 8.5 quarts)
48:37 Check the engine oil level with the dipstick and via the dash display
Water pump, thermostat, belt tensioner, idler pulley DIY video:
• Mercedes W163 ML500 ML...
Fan and Fan Clutch DIY video:
• Mercedes ML350 Remove ... :
I hope this video was helpful. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! : )
Timestamps, Part numbers, Torque values, Links:
00:22 Diagnostics for these oil leaks
03:15 Loosen the oil filter assembly (use a 14 flute, 74mm cap wrench)
03:58 Drain the engine oil, remove the drain plug and gasket (13mm)
04:55 Info on the drain plug gasket (MB part A0007-603-014-106)
05:28 Install the drain plug and new gasket (torque is 30 Nm or 22 ft-lbs)
06:06 Remove the serpentine belt (17mm)
08:07 Locate the four T30 fasteners on the oil cooler and decide if you want to remove the air pump for better access
08:40 Remove the air pump
09:45 Remove four T30 fasteners for the oil cooler
11:22 Remove the oil filter assembly from the oil filter housing
11:49 Important notes about the required special 46mm socket and extensions for the oil filter housing removal
14:55 Loosen the big oil filter housing union bolt (46mm)
15:57 My setup - a huge 40" breaker bar (Tekton SBH00340 with Nieko extension 00236A)
16:16 Remove the oil filter housing from the timing case cover
17:00 Remove and replace the oil filter housing seals on the bench:
- oil cooler seals are MB parts 112-184-02-61 and 112-184-03-61
19:29 Remove and replace the oil filter housing seal on the timing case cover:
- MB part is 112-184-00-61
20:50 Install the oil filter housing to the timing case cover
22:49 Install the 46mm union bolt to the oil filter housing: torque is 70 Nm or 52 ft-lbs
23:40 Info on the Pressure port/Expansion plug gasket (overview and approaches)
25:16 Remove the Pressure port plug (optional, H6 or 6mm Allen)
- Port plug copper gasket MB part number is 007603-012110
- install torque for the plug & copper gasket is 20 Nm (177 inch-lbs)
26:11 Remove the two E10 bolts to remove the Pressure port plate and rubber gasket
27:46 Detail of the pressure port plate and gasket on the bench
- "new" style plate part number is 112-015-06-30
- "new" style gasket part number is 112-184-02-80
30:45 Clean the bolts and bolt holes before re-installing the plate
31:00 Install the plate with a new gasket; torque is very low, just 8 Nm (71 inch-lbs, 5.9 ft-lbs)
32:36 Install the new o-rings and oil filter to the filter assembly (Mann HU718/5x fleece filter)
37:19 Install the oil filter assembly to the oil filter housing (torque is 25 Nm or 18.5 ft-lbs)
37:52 Install the four T30 bolts for the oil cooler to the oil filter housing
- for M113 engine: torque is 9 Nm or 80 inch-lbs;
- for M112 engine: torque is 11 Nm or 97 inch-lbs
40:25 Install the air pump (torque for the E10 bolt is 12 Nm or 9 ft-lbs)
41:40 Install the belt (17mm)
45:06 Refill with engine oil (for ML500, refill is about 8.0 L or 8.5 quarts)
48:37 Check the engine oil level with the dipstick and via the dash display
Water pump, thermostat, belt tensioner, idler pulley DIY video:
ua-cam.com/video/QkQcfJ6GSK4/v-deo.html
Fan and Fan Clutch DIY video:
ua-cam.com/video/Ols8w3zSTMM/v-deo.html:
I hope this video was helpful. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! : )
The clearest, easiest to follow mechanical surgeon on the Internet. If there had to be a Haynes Manual video guide, these are the very best. Absolutely incredible.... can't stop watching.
Thank you, I'm glad you like the video! Thanks for watching : )
I absolutely adore your videos. Attention to detail, without the rambling, no cutesy bs, just the facts and all of them. Part numbers, tools, procedure, perfect. Even us 'old timers' that have worked on all of our own equipment/vehicles for over 50 years, learn from your process. Thank you very much and please keep it up. Oh, btw, just a note on todays economics, that 46mm 12pt is now 22.98 (sure the smaller ones are still a similar old price, but not this one), the 1 13/16 Socket still 19.99. Once again, thank you for such a concise, no nonsense video, should be the bar used for others.
Thank you so much for your comment! I'm sorry that I somehow missed your comment - much respect to you for having worked on machines for as long as you have. That's awesome and I hope to be there one day, too!
Thanks also for adding the update on the socket price (yikes, everything is getting more and more expensive, but at least we don't have to pay for youtube yet)! Thanks for watching : )
@@L35inColorado - You are quite welcome and I wish you and your nothing but the best. Keep up the good work. As for me, need to go fix some tractor hydraulics, then there is that ATV carb, still putting off dropping my F250 fuel tank for that damned hidden fuel pump and the Jeep Commander's spark plugs. The Wife's ML430 is so far the easiest to deal with. 😁
Your editing skill, calming voice, attention to detail, presentation skill are simply out-of-this world. All repair shops, master technician, shop foreman should look up to you ! You inspire me to work on my M113 5.4L oil leak issue.
I have been using "oil is cheap, engine is not" to deal with my oil leaking issue because I have been topping off for years. However, it's to the point where my driveway is black, slippery, gooey so your video motivates me. You also solve the oil pressure test port rubber gasket mystery because there are TWO versions and you show both side-by-side clearing all my doubts when ordering parts.
THANK YOU again for this thorough start-to-finish instruction. It should be everyone's quick reference guide solving M112 / M113 oil leaking. Wishing you a happy & prosperous New Year in 2023. You earn a subscriber today and more & more years to come !
Wow - thank you so much for your kind words! : ) Happy and prosperous New Year to you, too! Thanks for watching, and thanks for subscribing - I have a few other M112/M113 videos on this channel and will add more as time allows in 2023! : )
An actual video where you can understand and see what the technician is doing with great explanations and details. God bless you, keep at it because you are great.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Amazing bolt by bolt presentation. Very comprehensive, detailed procedure madam, thank you.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
This vid is soooo well done. The freeze frames, the highlighter, the explanation and nooo stupid music! Just perfect! Thank u!!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you very much for clear, concise and informative guide. All your recommendations speak of experience and attention to correct procedures. It helps to hear a warm, steady voice without the idle chat that many consider necessary. Look forward to see and hear more lessons from you.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Happy Holidays!
Perfect videos with part nr and torque specs! Super!
Thanks - I always try to include part numbers and torque specs because I know that info can be difficult/confusing to find! Thanks for watching : )
Everyone saying the same thing, I cant help but be impressed with the details and clarity of this presentation.
Thank you! : ) And thanks for watching!
Great video. I normally am like, come on hurry up and get to the meat, but I really liked your calm patient attention to detail. You have a great voice for listening to. Learned a few things I didn't get from the other videos I watched on this topic. Keep up the good work. 😎🆒
Thanks! I appreciate that - I made this video because the oil cooler seals are a common repair, and the other videos are great (I especially like LegitStreetCars video on it), but I try to make videos for even first timers, which is why my videos end up rather long. It sounds like you have some experience already, so this job will be straight-forward for you! Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
I did this today. Thank you so much. I love you so much. Your voice is rather appealing to say the least.
Wow, great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
Best how to video I have ever seen You didn't miss anything thank you so much
Wow, thanks for your comment - and thanks for watching! : )
What a video. I learned SO MUCH. Thank you!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks, this made the job extremely easy with simple instructions and great video.
Wow, that's great - nice job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
You are amaizing :) Nice workshop manual for owners... Always nice to see how is working ... just keep it up :)
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Really appreciate the details with torque specs and detailed description. Being an A&P myself, it means a lot to have all the info to do the job right
A&P, nice - much respect! Yes, I try to share as much info as I can - and I have a thing about torque values, too : )
@@L35inColorado wanted to say thank you again for the info and details. Worked on my ML500 and I’m very please how it came out.
@@aptechknowledge Wow, that's great - nice work on your DIY, and thanks for the update! : )
Great video.!! U are an amazing Ml mechanica. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching! : )
One of the best, most comprehensive DIY videos anywhere. Awesome job. Thank you
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Appreciate it. Did mine yesterday. The gasket was brittle and broken. Which caused a big time leak for months... Had no idea where it was coming from and decided to start with those gaskets . It worked and used your videos to do the job right.
Nice, great job on your DIY! Yes, these make a real big mess when they start leaking. Thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado valve cover gaskets and all the hoses that came in the kit. Which I have no idea where those hoses go breather hoses etc. Trying to find the instructions about that.
@@L35inColorado Hi can you recommend an engine oil degreaser?
@@waynegomillion4976 I like Super Clean (purple bottle), which you can get at Harbor Freight and other places - it works very well, but be sure to wear gloves and a mask when using it. Another one I like is Simple Green. I hope that helps! : )
@@L35inColorado Ok great Ill give it a try. I m hoping to clean up the pulleys and other areas at the front of the engine plus the valve cover area when I change them soon. Gonna watch your video on the valves too. Appreciate it.
Excellent! Impressive; thorough; informative; educational and clean work I may add.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
love the you video... super detailed... you have best videos on youtube. please make more!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Wow top tier video very very descriptive and full of very useful information
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you so much for doing these videos. They have helped me a lot with my ML500 junkyard rescue.
Wow, you're doing a junkyard rescue, nice!
PERFECT ! LIKE ALWAYS ! THANK YOU VERY MUCH...
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
This was really a great video on this DIY
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Very professional and super easy to follow with vital information such as torque settings and useful tips.
Thank you - and wow, thanks very much for your "super thanks" tip!
Good luck, and Happy New Year, too! : )
Absolutely brilliant
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
you need to work for MB, another great video, tks
Thanks! And thanks for watching! : )
Great video. Thx you, lady
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
You create the absolute best instructional videos on these types of jobs! Thank you so much for the time you put into this. I completed this job and was very happy that the oil leaks stopped. However, after a few hundred miles, I noticed they started leaking again. Is there a common mistake made when completing this job that may cause leaks shortly afterwards?
You’re a great mechanic honestly one of the best. You’re attention to detail is amazing. How did you acquire all your skills? Did you work for a shop or just learn on your own? What do you do for a living?
Thank you - I'm not a trained mechanic, just a "shade-tree mechanic", as they say. I have a technical background in another field, which has helped me learn/understand machine repair in general, and I have a little background in other systems. Mostly I have been taught by others (including via UA-cam!) certain basic and specialized techniques, and I like to read repair manuals and other technical documents. My video style is intended to show each step so that repairs are less intimidating. I try to share what I have been taught with others so that we can all learn to do our own DIYs and save money! : ) Thanks for watching!
keep up the great work your awesome
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
During oil cooler gasket replacement this is also a good time to internally clean oil cooler housing and oil filler housing... There's a kit on Amazon that has some chemicals to foam out and clean oil passages. I used to to clean oil cooler on my 2004 Volvo XC70 wagon, it was very dirty at 210, 000 miles.
These videos are great. I look forward to your future videos! Very helpful!!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you very much ❤
Thanks for watching! : )
the oil condenser/cooler bolts are tri-lobe, trilobular type. as if self-drilling. the same type in the water pump, when you wondered about the threads in the water pump, why they are like that. that you can't remove and attach them very often, they eat away the material and then you need to use a helicoil or similar to repair and change the type of bolts
Thanks for adding this information! : )
Thank you
Thanks for watching! : )
Excellent, job
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Amazing... keep up the good work!
Thank you! : ) And thanks for watching!
Thanks
Thank you for the super tip - and thanks for watching! : )
Your wheel spanner in the boot fits on the belt tensioner which means you can change the belt alongside the road if you have a spare
Wow, that's a great tip - I didn't know that! Thanks for sharing : )
i only to change the oil cooler but i watched the whole video....your spot on a good teacher..100% enjoyed this stressing moment thanks
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
You need to drain both oil pan plugs on a m113 engine with sub frame on SLK55. PLUG NER THE OIL COOLER IS IN ORDER TO LET THE TECH CHECK OIL PRESURE. NO OIL PRESURE GAUGE ON M113 AMG
Thanks for adding your tips! And thanks for watching : )
Excellent video ! full blown tutorial if you ask me ) love all the NM ratings and hints
Thank you! Yes, I like to share the torque values whenever I can. Thanks for watching! : )
Thaank you so much.
Is it the same procedure for ml 55amg 2000?
@@waynegomillion4976 Yes, I believe so - I'm not familiar with every configuration, but if your set up looks like what's shown in the video, it will be the same process. For example, here's a forum entry from an '01 ML55 owner, and everything looks the same as the M113 shown in the video:
www.benzworld.org/threads/2001-ml55-amg-oil-cooler-seal-replacement-made-easy.3111140/
Also, according to FCP Euro's fitment guide, the part numbers are also the same:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-oil-cooler-gasket-kit-reinz-1121840061#fitment
I hope that helps - good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado Hi, yes it does help. Thank you so much.
@@L35inColorado Appreciate it. Just changed a lower radiator hose that split. I added 2 containers of coolant. Now it's all but gone. No visible leaks. Any idea where it's going?
MANN Filter sind die besten die es auf dem Markt gibt. MANN ist auch Entwicklungspartner von Mercedes. An einen Mercedes gehört immer ein MANN Filter, egal an welcher Stelle .
Thank for details in order would you please let me know how you flush radiator from mixed oil thanks
Hi L35, need some guidance please. I stripped a couple of the oil cooler screws into the housing. I just got the replacement part from the dealer but the new housing has no threads? Am I suppose to tap a brand new oil filter housing? This makes wonder if my old housing can be re-tapped, anyone else buy a new housing that can advise?
I'm sorry that I missed your comment! If you're still working on this, inspect the fasteners that connect the oil cooler to the housing. I believe those four fasteners are "tri-lobular" or "tap-tites", which is a type of self-tapping screw that has a threaded shaft which is not circular in cross-section, but rather is tri-lobular.
If that is the case, then you can just use the original screws to self-tap the new housing - or, as you mentioned, you can simply re-tap your old housing and set up to a slightly larger size. If you can find some self-tapping screws that will fit (there's not a lot of room on the head side of the bolt, which is perhaps why MB used cap heads instead of hex heads), then you can also just clean up the old holes and see if the slightly larger self-tapping screws will hold.
Here are some pics from an MB forum which show the tri-lobular shape of the screws, for comparison:
www.benzworld.org/threads/oem-oil-cooler-bolts-are-not-made-round.3053443/
I hope that helps! : )
What did you use as a cleaning agent to remove all the grime and oil/dirt to properly identify where the leaks were?
I usually use Simple Green concentrate, diluted to about 10:1, to remove grime. I hope that helps : )
Hello madam, I hope you are doing well! I'm coming back to you this time for my Mercedes ML320 automatic gearbox, I was faced with the problem of: start error, which lasted 1 year and a few months, today I paid for the ML Quickstart v2.0 device, the message does not appears more, but the engine has trouble starting, at the start we said that the battery was weak, we brought another battery, but it's always the same thing: like as if the battery was weak!
With your expertise I need your help, thank you!
Have you checked the fuel pressure upon start up?
Hi L35, wonderful procedure! Does the engine oil need to be drained or just some? My oil only has 2k miles and I usually change after 5-6k 😊
No, you don't need to drain the engine oil. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado❤
Hi I think your videos are very clear and easy instructions to follow very well explained. I replaced all the seals on the filter housing replaced everything back with the appropriate torque specifications but there is a little oil still dripping down on to the compressor bolt that you showed in the video could that be the old oil still dripping down not sure what is your opinion
Thanks! Hopefully it is just some let over oil: there is a surprisingly large amount of oil that collects behind the belt tensioner when the oil cooler leaks, and it often takes a while (many engine heating cycles) to work it's way done. Even if you remove the belt tensioner and clean up what you can, there will still be some old oil in the nooks which will take a week or more of routine driving to drip down. I would clean it up and just keep an eye on it: hopefully you'll find that it is old oil slowing working it's way down. I hope that helps : ) Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for the quick reply I will keep an eye on it
I still had the leak after a while the problem was I managed to cross thread one of the housing bolts and it wasn't tight enough tightening it more made it worse to where it wasn't gripping anymore so I had to purchase a replacement filter housing and do it all again now there are no leaks after 3 weeks all dry I was such a fool to cross thread the bolt I'm usually very observant when it comes to screwing bolts back in but not that time lol.
any way you learn by your mistakes
Nice job dear!
Want a partner in life?
I have a benz shop in chattanooga TN , highest ratings. virgize and code modules too. can't stand this RED state!
I also own many MLs. 2002 ML55, a 2002 ML 500, a 2002 ML320, and an PERFECT 1999 Ml 320. AND a VERY RARE 2005 C55 AMG RennTech
Even I don't own a Mercedes, I learned a lot from this vid! Thank you!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Well done you did the job spot on , most you tube people are fools but you are a good mechanic and explained everything correct , well done from a Mercedes Benz mechanic to another .
Hello.
I have an 06 ml500 with w113 engine.
I changed the five leak points mentioned in this video as well as the valve cover gasket.
There still seems to be an oil leak which seems to come out of the first spark plug well at the front of the car.
All the plugs and coils were replaced.
When I pull the wire on that plug, the well is dry !!!
Any idea where my oil leak is coming from???
When I turn the car on within 10 mins there is what seems to be oil leaking from that plug well on the t he exhaust manifold at a constant drip so constant that within another 5 mins you can see oil smoke coming from the engine.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
200,000 km. With 4-matic
I'm sorry I missed your comment - the first and easiest thing I would check is that I'd first make sure that what appears to be a leak is not actually some old oil that collected in a high spot that is just dripping down, and not leaking from the engine itself. There are so many nooks and crannies on the top of M113 that it is possible for oil (especially if the breather covers were leaking) to collect into high, little spots. That old oil then heats up once the engine warms and it drips down, which can appear to be a new leak. So, since we can't clean up all those little areas because they are too difficult to reach, I would clean up the oil as it appears, and see if it doesn't taper off over a couple weeks.
Have you tried that?
As Tina would have said. "Simply The Best!"
May she rest in peace - thanks for watching : )
😊Thanks for post this video with tutorial in details for me to learn something new Best wishes to you career and more success to your life 🙏💒
Thank you very much, and thanks for watching! : )
Hey L35... I came here from your Mercedes MAP sensor video just to see your work. When you went to the drawn diagram for clarification I laughed out loud with joyful appreciation. I saw in your playlist your versatility. I'll be back just for the fun of it! Thank you!
Haha, thanks! I like to refer to diagrams and manuals as much as I can, and I'll always try to show them to everyone else, too, when possible. Thanks for watching! : )
I've been making and fixing things all my life, and so am a believer in diagrams and manuals. But you bring something else I think is very important: Positive Attitude. That helps everything.
Great information, outstanding video.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
This was amazing thank you I have the same leak and this has been a great help in building up my confidence to take on the job. 👏👌
Thank you, and thanks for watching - good luck! : )
Thank you for so much. Would you have any tips on doing the small breathers also. Many thanks Steve
Great in depth video! Thank you. Is 46mm socket okay to use? Or need to be 1&13/16? Thanks
The socket shown in the video is a 46mm (12:09), but you can also use a 1-13/16" socket, as shown at 13:32. The main consideration is to use a thin-walled socket that fits inside, without hammering or damaging the housing. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColoradoI got the car apart ready to finish this job. I have borrowed my brothers 46mm socket and 1/2 to 3/4 adaptor. Will get that 46mm bolt out and do the seal tomorrow :) Thanks again
After this excellent detailed tutorial, subbed.. easily
Thank you, and thanks for watching and subscribing! : )
What is the bottom portion of the housing called? Where the 46mm screws the housing into?
She got the best video for all you amateurs. Like me 😂😂😂 lol gotcha fish 😂😂😂😂.
Wow you are seriously one of the most thorough and patient mechanics! Thank you so much for posting this walkthrough! Can you post a 722.6 transmission walkthrough and also a valve cover gasket with breather hose/spark plug replacement walkthrough for m113?
Thanks : ) I have a valve cover & breather cover here:
ua-cam.com/video/NxBlFhhVXR8/v-deo.html
I hope soon to do a spark plug video (next couple months, hopefully). I don't have anything on the transmission yet, but may in time. Thanks for watching! : )
Without a doubt the best how-to videos. Clear, thorough, and the soothing female voice. She's great.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
One of the best instruction videos I've seen! I am going to be replacing the seals on my 2003 ML500 and was curious where did you purchase your oil cooler seals? Thank you!
Thank you! About the seals - I would have either purchased them from AutohausAZ, FCP Euro, or my local MB dealer (I can't remember). The part numbers are listed in the Pinned Comment. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
Where is the oil pressure port to connect the gauge in m271?
Hei,
My mercedes doesen't have electrical fan . Do you think i will have enough space to change all the seals without removing the fan ?
It is possible to remove the belt without removing the fan ?
Unfortunately, I don't think there is any room to work without removing the belt, but if you give it shot, please post back with your results! I know removing the fan clutch can be a real pain, but if it's helpful, I do have a dedicated video about it:
ua-cam.com/video/Ols8w3zSTMM/v-deo.html
I hope that helps - good luck! : )