Timestamps, torque values, part numbers: 00:32 Mercedes' WIS Shop instructions for this job 01:55 Overview of alternate technique for replacing the joint without removing knuckle 02:37 Simple tools you'll need for this method (chains, bolt, tie-off, turnbuckle, sledge hammer) 04:53 Special socket is required for the lock nut (ie, Kommen MBB2136, $30) 06:00 Other versions of the special socket (JTC 1415, Neilsen CT4466, CTA 1082, Baum 385 -007, MB 385-589-00-07-00) 06:29 Notes about the install torque of the locking nut (300 Nm, 221 ft-lbs) 07:12 Notes about the different aftermarket locking nuts 08:01 Using a cold chisel to remove the locking nut 08:44 Factory/original ball joints did not use a locking nut 09:16 Some aftermarket parts (Lemforder 163-330-01-35, Febi 21637, Meyle 016-010-0004/HD, Duralast BLM6373, SIDEM 49980, Delphi TC1369) 09:37 Notes about the drive size of the special socket (1/2" versus 3/4" drive) 12:06 Rental tools for separating three joints (OEM Tools 57276, EverTough 67008, OEM Tools 57308, Gearwrench 3916D) 14:20 Notes about using a Pickle fork Repair begins: 16:01 Lift entire front end and remove wheel (17mm) 17:13 Inspection of the old ball joint (boot failed) 17:52 Soak the the fasteners with PB Blaster (penetrating oil) 18:52 Remove two bolts for the ABS speed sensor bracket (E10, 10mm) 19:27 Push the brake pads back a little bit 20:11 Remove two caliper mounting bolts (21mm, 22mm on some models) 21:15 Move and hang caliper out of the way 21:54 Remove the brake rotor (one H5 bolt) 22:45 Remove the dust shield (four 13mm bolts) 23:13 Closer look at the locking nut 24:01 Clean the locking nut and soak with more PB Blaster 24:17 Loosen the Upper Control Arm nut (19mm or 3/4") 24:29 Disconnect the Outer Tie Rod End (21mm or 22mm) 25:40 Use OEM Tools 57276 Joint Separator 27:30 Use the chains and bolt to tie off the knuckle 28:03 Break free and remove the special lock nut 29:23 Disconnect the Upper Control Arm 31:23 Position the knuckle for clear acces s to the nut for the Lower Ball Joint (21mm) 32:22 Move the bolt and chain to hold the knuckle 33:03 Separate the Lower Ball Joint (15/16" pickle fork, ie Harbor Freight 66315) 35:44 Slightly jack up the Lower Control Arm to clear the Ball Joint 37:06 Rotate the whole knuckle to access the Lower Ball Joint 38:15 Soak the Lower Ball Joint with more PB Blaster 38:29 Use the sledge to knock out the Lower Ball Joint 39:24 Review of the set-up/knuckle position to remove the Lower Ball Joint Review of old and new parts on the bench: 40:15 Closer look at the old Lower Ball Joint - MB part and aftermarket parts (MB A163- 330-01-35, Lemforder 163 330 01 35, Sidem 49980, TRW JBJ764, Delphi TC1369, Duralast BJM6373) 42:23 Issues/differences with the new MOOG "Problem Solver" part K500005 46:58 Notes about threadlock on new nut and using old nut to drive new joint 47:49 Put the new joint in the freezer, if possible Begin install: 48:06 Clean the bore on the knuckle 49:24 Use the chains and tie-off to position and hold the knuckle 50:23 If possible, heat the knuckle with a heat gun 51:36 Install the new Lower Ball Joint - pull joint to abutment using the old nut, if possible 54:25 Remove the old nut and clean the threads with brake cleaner to remove any anti- seize 55:00 Install the new locking nut and tighten to final torque (300 Nm, 221 ft-lbs) 56:56 Rotate the knuckle back to the normal position 57:55 Slightly jack up the Lower Control Arm to clear the new Lower Ball Joint 1:00:10 Install the nut for the Lower Ball Joint (21mm, some are 22mm) 1:01:19 Torque the Lower Ball Joint nut to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs) 1:02:03 Connect the Knuckle to the Upper Control Arm and install nut (19mm) 1:03:40 Torque the Upper Control Arm nut to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) 1:04:51 Install the dust shield (four 13mm bolts, low torque of 9 Nm) 1:05:11 Install the Brake Rotor (H5 bolt, low torque of 23 Nm) 1:05:48 Install the Brake Caliper mounting bolts (21mm or 22mm) and torque to 180 Nm (133 ft-lbs) 1:07:00 Install the ABS speed sensor bracket (E10 and 10mm bolts) 1:07:29 Connect the Outer Tie Rod end and torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) 1:09:40 Install the wheel (17mm, torque to 150 Nm, 110 ft-lbs) 1:10:15 Set brake pads using the brake pedal 1:11:28 Notes about Front End Alignment after this repair I hope this video is helpful for you. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! : )
Happy New Year 2025!! Wow my favorite channel and Long time no see you. Thank you for sharing this information. I still have my ML 500. Keep up with the videos !!!! We all learning from you.
Happy New Year, to you, too! Great job keeping your ML500 on the road - it's hard to believe that these first-generation ML's are now all at least 20 years old, now that we've reached 2025! Thanks for watching, and thanks for being a subscriber! : )
hello L35 in Colorado 👍😁. first of all I wish you and your family a happy new year 2025. I am very happy about the new video. perfectly filmed, superbly explained 🔧🔧. with a wonderful voice. as always🙏😅. best wishes from Germany. Make America🇺🇸 Great Again (MAGA)👍👍👍👍
Good to see another great video on car fixing from *L35 in Colorado* !!! Btw, PB Blast smells nasty, like the strongest gasoline smell that lasts FOREVER!
Yes, fortunately the lower joint can be replaced separately, but the upper joint cannot (it is integrated into the upper wishbone/control arm). And thank you so much for being a subscriber! I'm hoping to have more ML (W163) videos this year - it's hard to believe, but 2025 is already the 20th anniversary of these end of first-generation ML's! They have proven to be rather solid MB's, as there are still quite a lot of them on the roads! Thanks for watching! : )
@L35inColorado with your and other channels help, soon (6 years?) my first old-timer! Hope to see you around for the journey and thank you for all your videos so far! Greetings from Kitsap, WA
I'm a Toyota owner and DIYer, I watched the whole video as a reinforcement for me to stay away from German cars. Great video as usual from this channel.
Very good! You are the gold standard for DIY explanations on things automotive. I don't own a Mercedes but I always learn something interesting watching your videos. I hope you won't wait so long between vids next time as it's always a pleasure. Thanks.
Thank you! : ) Last year was so busy for me that I didn't have much time to record my repairs - but this year I do already have a few videos I'm working on, and hoping to post more soon. Thanks for being a subscriber, and thanks for watching! : )
That would be fun, if I ever had the chance - I've never worked on a hybrid before. I do have some videos for the 3.5L 2GR-FE engine that is found in early RX350's, and I'll be posting a video for that engine soon (hopefully later this week or next week). Thanks for watching, and thanks for being a subscriber!
@@L35inColorado THANK YOU! Always love your videos. You are so methodical with your work, besides mentioning the right tools to use/get and things to watch out for. And your camera work is always clean/clear on the parts you work on.
No - as shown at 01:35, the torque for the axle nut on the W163 is 490 Nm, or 331 ft-lbs. Here's a link to an MB WIS document, if that is helpful (where you see blue numbers added on this document, that is the torque value converted to ft-lbs): This will download as a pdf when you click it, so check your downloads (might not work on mobile): www.benzworld.org/attachments/r-i-front-axle-shaft-pdf.1704713/ Here's the source forum page for that pdf link above: www.benzworld.org/threads/torque-specs-for-axle-nut.2522977/ And here's some more info: www.benzworld.org/threads/collared-front-axle-shaft-nut-installation-torque-is-it-really-490-nm.3065026/ Also, the MB states in the WIS documents that the axle nut shouldn't be re-used, but rather replaced each time it is removed. Thankfully, as shown in the video, we don't need to remove the axle nut to replace the ball joint! I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
Mercedes ML320, the axle nut torque rating is typically around 200-220 ft-lb (270-290 Nm); however, it's crucial to always consult your vehicle's specific owner's manual for the exact torque specification as it may vary slightly depending on the model year. Key points to remember: Consult your owner's manual: This is the most reliable source for precise torque specifications for your specific vehicle. Use a torque wrench: Always use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening of the axle nut. Tighten while rotating the wheel hub: When tightening the axle nut, rotate the wheel hub to ensure even bearing preload.
@@DanaJacobsen-bo3ow I see that you have copy-pasted an AI answer from Google, and unfortunately that information is demonstrably incorrect. You can refer to the actual WIS (Mercedes Benz' Factory Service Manual, or Workshop Information System) torque specifications I linked above and displayed in the video, if you need any more information. The axle nut torque for the W163 is 490 Nm (331 ft-lbs).
Timestamps, torque values, part numbers:
00:32 Mercedes' WIS Shop instructions for this job
01:55 Overview of alternate technique for replacing the joint without removing knuckle
02:37 Simple tools you'll need for this method (chains, bolt, tie-off,
turnbuckle, sledge
hammer)
04:53 Special socket is required for the lock nut (ie, Kommen
MBB2136, $30)
06:00 Other versions of the special socket (JTC 1415, Neilsen
CT4466, CTA 1082, Baum 385
-007, MB 385-589-00-07-00)
06:29 Notes about the install torque of the locking nut (300 Nm,
221 ft-lbs)
07:12 Notes about the different aftermarket locking nuts
08:01 Using a cold chisel to remove the locking nut
08:44 Factory/original ball joints did not use a locking nut
09:16 Some aftermarket parts (Lemforder 163-330-01-35, Febi
21637, Meyle 016-010-0004/HD, Duralast BLM6373, SIDEM 49980,
Delphi TC1369)
09:37 Notes about the drive size of the special socket (1/2" versus
3/4" drive)
12:06 Rental tools for separating three joints (OEM Tools 57276,
EverTough 67008, OEM
Tools 57308, Gearwrench 3916D)
14:20 Notes about using a Pickle fork
Repair begins:
16:01 Lift entire front end and remove wheel (17mm)
17:13 Inspection of the old ball joint (boot failed)
17:52 Soak the the fasteners with PB Blaster (penetrating oil)
18:52 Remove two bolts for the ABS speed sensor bracket (E10,
10mm)
19:27 Push the brake pads back a little bit
20:11 Remove two caliper mounting bolts (21mm, 22mm on some
models)
21:15 Move and hang caliper out of the way
21:54 Remove the brake rotor (one H5 bolt)
22:45 Remove the dust shield (four 13mm bolts)
23:13 Closer look at the locking nut
24:01 Clean the locking nut and soak with more PB Blaster
24:17 Loosen the Upper Control Arm nut (19mm or 3/4")
24:29 Disconnect the Outer Tie Rod End (21mm or 22mm)
25:40 Use OEM Tools 57276 Joint Separator
27:30 Use the chains and bolt to tie off the knuckle
28:03 Break free and remove the special lock nut
29:23 Disconnect the Upper Control Arm
31:23 Position the knuckle for clear acces s to the nut for the Lower
Ball Joint (21mm)
32:22 Move the bolt and chain to hold the knuckle
33:03 Separate the Lower Ball Joint (15/16" pickle fork, ie Harbor
Freight 66315)
35:44 Slightly jack up the Lower Control Arm to clear the Ball Joint
37:06 Rotate the whole knuckle to access the Lower Ball Joint
38:15 Soak the Lower Ball Joint with more PB Blaster
38:29 Use the sledge to knock out the Lower Ball Joint
39:24 Review of the set-up/knuckle position to remove the Lower
Ball Joint
Review of old and new parts on the bench:
40:15 Closer look at the old Lower Ball Joint - MB part and aftermarket parts (MB A163-
330-01-35, Lemforder 163
330 01 35, Sidem 49980, TRW JBJ764, Delphi TC1369, Duralast
BJM6373)
42:23 Issues/differences with the new MOOG "Problem Solver"
part K500005
46:58 Notes about threadlock on new nut and using old nut to
drive new joint
47:49 Put the new joint in the freezer, if possible
Begin install:
48:06 Clean the bore on the knuckle
49:24 Use the chains and tie-off to position and hold the knuckle
50:23 If possible, heat the knuckle with a heat gun
51:36 Install the new Lower Ball Joint - pull joint to abutment
using the old nut, if
possible
54:25 Remove the old nut and clean the threads with brake
cleaner to remove any anti-
seize
55:00 Install the new locking nut and tighten to final torque (300
Nm, 221 ft-lbs)
56:56 Rotate the knuckle back to the normal position
57:55 Slightly jack up the Lower Control Arm to clear the new
Lower Ball Joint
1:00:10 Install the nut for the Lower Ball Joint (21mm, some are
22mm)
1:01:19 Torque the Lower Ball Joint nut to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs)
1:02:03 Connect the Knuckle to the Upper Control Arm and install
nut (19mm)
1:03:40 Torque the Upper Control Arm nut to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
1:04:51 Install the dust shield (four 13mm bolts, low torque of 9
Nm)
1:05:11 Install the Brake Rotor (H5 bolt, low torque of 23 Nm)
1:05:48 Install the Brake Caliper mounting bolts (21mm or 22mm)
and torque to 180 Nm
(133 ft-lbs)
1:07:00 Install the ABS speed sensor bracket (E10 and 10mm bolts)
1:07:29 Connect the Outer Tie Rod end and torque to 55 Nm (41
ft-lbs)
1:09:40 Install the wheel (17mm, torque to 150 Nm, 110 ft-lbs)
1:10:15 Set brake pads using the brake pedal
1:11:28 Notes about Front End Alignment after this repair
I hope this video is helpful for you.
Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! : )
Excellent job
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Great to see you here again - especially when the topic is W163. Wishing you all the best for 2025!
Thank you! Wishing you all the best for 2025, as well! : )
Excellent video!! Extremely thorough! Best on the UA-cam!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Happy New Year 2025!!
Wow my favorite channel and Long time no see you.
Thank you for sharing this information.
I still have my ML 500.
Keep up with the videos !!!! We all learning from you.
Happy New Year, to you, too!
Great job keeping your ML500 on the road - it's hard to believe that these first-generation ML's are now all at least 20 years old, now that we've reached 2025!
Thanks for watching, and thanks for being a subscriber! : )
hello L35 in Colorado 👍😁. first of all I wish you and your family a happy new year 2025. I am very happy about the new video. perfectly filmed, superbly explained 🔧🔧. with a wonderful voice. as always🙏😅. best wishes from Germany. Make America🇺🇸 Great Again (MAGA)👍👍👍👍
Thank you, and thanks for watching - Best wishes to you in Germany, as well! : )
Good to see another great video on car fixing from *L35 in Colorado* !!! Btw, PB Blast smells nasty, like the strongest gasoline smell that lasts FOREVER!
Oh yes, PB Blaster stinks so bad! But it works so well! : D
Thanks for watching, and thanks for adding your tips! : )
Seriously the most thorough UA-cam video ever! Great job! You ROCK!! 🇦🇺❤️🇺🇸
Thank you! And thanks for watching : )
I didn't know it was possible to replace just the joint. Thank you for your videos on the ML! Been following you for what feels like 10 years now!
Yes, fortunately the lower joint can be replaced separately, but the upper joint cannot (it is integrated into the upper wishbone/control arm).
And thank you so much for being a subscriber! I'm hoping to have more ML (W163) videos this year - it's hard to believe, but 2025 is already the 20th anniversary of these end of first-generation ML's! They have proven to be rather solid MB's, as there are still quite a lot of them on the roads!
Thanks for watching! : )
@L35inColorado with your and other channels help, soon (6 years?) my first old-timer! Hope to see you around for the journey and thank you for all your videos so far! Greetings from Kitsap, WA
your tutorial is the best i have ever seen, please keep producing these they are fantastic .
Thank you very much - and thanks for watching! : )
I'm a Toyota owner and DIYer, I watched the whole video as a reinforcement for me to stay away from German cars. Great video as usual from this channel.
Haha - I get it, believe me!
Thanks for watching! : )
Very good! You are the gold standard for DIY explanations on things automotive. I don't own a Mercedes but I always learn something interesting watching your videos. I hope you won't wait so long between vids next time as it's always a pleasure. Thanks.
Thank you! : ) Last year was so busy for me that I didn't have much time to record my repairs - but this year I do already have a few videos I'm working on, and hoping to post more soon. Thanks for being a subscriber, and thanks for watching! : )
A pipe wrench works as well to remove the castle nut.
Excellent work as always. : )
Thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
Would you next prokect be a Lexus RX350 or RX450h? That would be great 🙂
That would be fun, if I ever had the chance - I've never worked on a hybrid before. I do have some videos for the 3.5L 2GR-FE engine that is found in early RX350's, and I'll be posting a video for that engine soon (hopefully later this week or next week).
Thanks for watching, and thanks for being a subscriber!
@@L35inColorado THANK YOU! Always love your videos. You are so methodical with your work, besides mentioning the right tools to use/get and things to watch out for. And your camera work is always clean/clear on the parts you work on.
Привет, все очень просто можно сделать ,снимаете цапфу и меняете опору ,и гору инструмента не надо.
спасибо за просмотр! : )
The axal nut should be torqued to 200 ft lbs.
No - as shown at 01:35, the torque for the axle nut on the W163 is 490 Nm, or 331 ft-lbs. Here's a link to an MB WIS document, if that is helpful (where you see blue numbers added on this document, that is the torque value converted to ft-lbs):
This will download as a pdf when you click it, so check your downloads (might not work on mobile):
www.benzworld.org/attachments/r-i-front-axle-shaft-pdf.1704713/
Here's the source forum page for that pdf link above:
www.benzworld.org/threads/torque-specs-for-axle-nut.2522977/
And here's some more info:
www.benzworld.org/threads/collared-front-axle-shaft-nut-installation-torque-is-it-really-490-nm.3065026/
Also, the MB states in the WIS documents that the axle nut shouldn't be re-used, but rather replaced each time it is removed. Thankfully, as shown in the video, we don't need to remove the axle nut to replace the ball joint!
I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
Mercedes ML320, the axle nut torque rating is typically around 200-220 ft-lb (270-290 Nm); however, it's crucial to always consult your vehicle's specific owner's manual for the exact torque specification as it may vary slightly depending on the model year.
Key points to remember:
Consult your owner's manual: This is the most reliable source for precise torque specifications for your specific vehicle.
Use a torque wrench: Always use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening of the axle nut.
Tighten while rotating the wheel hub: When tightening the axle nut, rotate the wheel hub to ensure even bearing preload.
@@DanaJacobsen-bo3ow I see that you have copy-pasted an AI answer from Google, and unfortunately that information is demonstrably incorrect.
You can refer to the actual WIS (Mercedes Benz' Factory Service Manual, or Workshop Information System) torque specifications I linked above and displayed in the video, if you need any more information. The axle nut torque for the W163 is 490 Nm (331 ft-lbs).