I’d look through my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist. The first one you need is how to set up a fuel system. Then it’s just a matter of chasing why you have that much fuel getting into the engine.
Tip # 2 If you get your self a 4 feet length hose [aquarium or vacuum] and put one end in a bottle and the other end on the bleeder screw [tightly on the bleeder] . Then just pump the pedal [count # of pumps] then check you level at master, keep track of # of pumps to low level so you know when to stop to refill master, then repeat at opposite side . The length [ very important ] of the [4 feet ] hose functions as a check valve, so no need to submerge the bottle end of the hose. Try it you will love ❤ it...
Most of the time when you get air in the lines while vacuuming the brakes is that the threads around the bleeder will leak air and make you think you still have air. You can use liquid teflon thread sealer or thread tape on the bleeder threads and 99% of the time it will stop that. For bleeding brakes I usually just do the gravity bleed method where you just crack 1 bleeder loose and walk away for 10 to 20mim and then close that bleeder, refill and repeat for all 4 corners and then after a good gravity bleeding then get a buddy to help do the oldschool 2 person method to be 100% sure all the air is gone.
I’ve heard that theory before about going past the threads on the bleeder. I may test that out. As far as gravity doing the work, there’s 0% chance I’d trust that. 😆 I’ll just wait for the neighbor to come home to work the pedal for me.
@@MuscleCarSolutions you should give gravity bleeding a try, it sounds ridiculous but 9 times out of 10 if I give each corner 10 min of gravity bleeding when I do the final check with the help of a buddy there will be little to no air left 99% of the time. The only thing I wont gravity bleed is the master cylinder, I ALWAYS bench bleed those first because you need the piston inside to travel all the way in to get all the trapped air out which is impossible to do in the vehicle because the way the brake pedals are set up in 99% of cars you won't get the full stroke of the piston in the master cylinder but for bleeding lines and calipers the gravity method works great but I always check after with a 2nd person the old school way but if I'm in a pinch and dont have a helper I have just gravity bleed them and been perfectly fine.
Yup. My dad used to on some early street rods he had. I get the concept. I’m not sure I could get my mind to agree to it. It’s that 1 time out of 10 that I don’t want to take the chance on. But there’s something to admire about older cars and simpler systems.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah it's nice on the old systems because there is no abs or other unnecessary systems to worry about failing or getting air trapped in. Like I said before I always check after gravity bleeding when I can get a helper for the final bleeding but gravity bleeding gets them usually totally bleed or really close and on the cars that had the proportioning valve with the flipper valve that closes one circuit off in case of a line blow out I always gravity bleed them first because if the lines on one circuit are low or empty you could trip the valve when you step on the brakes and stop fluid flow and it's a pain sometimes to reset the valve. So my method is to gravity bleed to get the brakes 95% bleed and then use the 2 person method to guarantee and finish it off.
I might try it somewhere down the road. Remember how the old man did it. What could possibly go wrong? 😆 But in all reality if I jack it up, there’s always this crappy Mityvac to the rescue!
This truck came with front disks. Yup it’s a 71. Not sure how they were optioned back then. It’s not listed on the options that are on the glovebox door.
Tip, get rid of the adapter, install the hose directly on to the bleeder screw. Furthermore, if the hose dosen't fit tight on the bleeder screw, then, dich the hose and get a new one, an aquarium hose will do, or a vaccum hose that fits tight on the bleeder, it must fit tight or you will suck in air from between the bleeder and the hose. Moreover, if your using new bleeder screws the new bleeder screws will suck in air via the treads, so on new bleeder screws use one turn of Teflon tape. Also, his problem happens on new & re-man calipers... Try it you will like it... I enjoy you video content. 👍👍👍
It’s not a bad plan. I have tried that with some limited success. There really isn’t a good way with what is provided in these kits. Would like to see them offer a positive locking system to secure it to the bleeder nipple better. I’m sure that would be an expensive upgrade, but I’d be willing to buy it if it meant better bleeding of the system. I also have their air operated kit. It’s a little better but still a poor connection at the bleeder screw. 🤷♂️ I guess it is what it is! Thanks for the suggestions!
Based on reviews with the aluminum cast model, it works great. However, there were negative reviews about this cheap plastic model. My question, where is the gage? Not having the gage will make hard to determine if there is a leak. The aluminum body model looks great.
Just a thought: you think that restriction on the driver side front is due to the power booster being it’s the closest to it, you would think it would pull hard to the right when applied, maybe that booster knows what to send where.. just thinking
There was quite a bit of chunky stuff coming out of the bleeder. 😆 The calipers should be in this week so we’ll knock one apart and see what it looks like. Hopefully it’s isolated to that caliper and not in the line. I’d hate to fill the new one with that mess! We’ll know soon enough!
Those adapters suck! You will get air if the bleeder is opened too much. To get a good seal I take a smaller ID piece of clear hose and attach it to the hose from the kit. I then heat up a spare bleeder with a torch, then slide on the hose with the smaller ID. This will form to a tighter seal. If your still getting air bubbles then apply synthetic grease to the exposed bleeder threads.
I quit buying Mityvac products. THEY SUCK! I bought the fluid evacuator and after maybe 20 uses it quit working. I was using it for transmission fluid. I eventually bought 3 of them over a pero=iod of 10 years. I eventually used two of them for parts to make one good one and threw the others in the trash can. I was a professional auto mechanic for over 20 years. You can get a better product for less money. That's my opinion.
I think you got to put some Teflon tape on your threads. It appears that you loosen your bleeder screw a lot.
Try using the mini cones on the bleed nipple. They make a much tighter seal preventing air from entering the line from outside your bleed nipple.
Hey I’ve got a edelbrock carb, I rebuilt. it smells like raw gas coming out of exhaust to lean how do I fix that
I’d look through my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist. The first one you need is how to set up a fuel system. Then it’s just a matter of chasing why you have that much fuel getting into the engine.
Tip # 2
If you get your self a 4 feet length hose [aquarium or vacuum] and put one end in a bottle and the other end on the bleeder screw [tightly on the bleeder] . Then just pump the pedal [count # of pumps] then check you level at master, keep track of # of pumps to low level so you know when to stop to refill master, then repeat at opposite side .
The length [ very important ] of the [4 feet ] hose functions as a check valve, so no need to submerge the bottle end of the hose.
Try it you will love ❤ it...
Most of the time when you get air in the lines while vacuuming the brakes is that the threads around the bleeder will leak air and make you think you still have air. You can use liquid teflon thread sealer or thread tape on the bleeder threads and 99% of the time it will stop that. For bleeding brakes I usually just do the gravity bleed method where you just crack 1 bleeder loose and walk away for 10 to 20mim and then close that bleeder, refill and repeat for all 4 corners and then after a good gravity bleeding then get a buddy to help do the oldschool 2 person method to be 100% sure all the air is gone.
I’ve heard that theory before about going past the threads on the bleeder. I may test that out. As far as gravity doing the work, there’s 0% chance I’d trust that. 😆 I’ll just wait for the neighbor to come home to work the pedal for me.
@@MuscleCarSolutions you should give gravity bleeding a try, it sounds ridiculous but 9 times out of 10 if I give each corner 10 min of gravity bleeding when I do the final check with the help of a buddy there will be little to no air left 99% of the time. The only thing I wont gravity bleed is the master cylinder, I ALWAYS bench bleed those first because you need the piston inside to travel all the way in to get all the trapped air out which is impossible to do in the vehicle because the way the brake pedals are set up in 99% of cars you won't get the full stroke of the piston in the master cylinder but for bleeding lines and calipers the gravity method works great but I always check after with a 2nd person the old school way but if I'm in a pinch and dont have a helper I have just gravity bleed them and been perfectly fine.
Yup. My dad used to on some early street rods he had. I get the concept. I’m not sure I could get my mind to agree to it. It’s that 1 time out of 10 that I don’t want to take the chance on. But there’s something to admire about older cars and simpler systems.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah it's nice on the old systems because there is no abs or other unnecessary systems to worry about failing or getting air trapped in. Like I said before I always check after gravity bleeding when I can get a helper for the final bleeding but gravity bleeding gets them usually totally bleed or really close and on the cars that had the proportioning valve with the flipper valve that closes one circuit off in case of a line blow out I always gravity bleed them first because if the lines on one circuit are low or empty you could trip the valve when you step on the brakes and stop fluid flow and it's a pain sometimes to reset the valve. So my method is to gravity bleed to get the brakes 95% bleed and then use the 2 person method to guarantee and finish it off.
I might try it somewhere down the road. Remember how the old man did it. What could possibly go wrong? 😆 But in all reality if I jack it up, there’s always this crappy Mityvac to the rescue!
My 1970 GMC came with power drum brakes is yours a1971 ?
This truck came with front disks. Yup it’s a 71. Not sure how they were optioned back then. It’s not listed on the options that are on the glovebox door.
Tip, get rid of the adapter, install the hose directly on to the bleeder screw. Furthermore, if the hose dosen't fit tight on the bleeder screw, then, dich the hose and get a new one, an aquarium hose will do, or a vaccum hose that fits tight on the bleeder, it must fit tight or you will suck in air from between the bleeder and the hose. Moreover, if your using new bleeder screws the new bleeder screws will suck in air via the treads, so on new bleeder screws use one turn of Teflon tape. Also, his problem happens on new & re-man calipers...
Try it you will like it...
I enjoy you video content. 👍👍👍
It’s not a bad plan. I have tried that with some limited success. There really isn’t a good way with what is provided in these kits. Would like to see them offer a positive locking system to secure it to the bleeder nipple better. I’m sure that would be an expensive upgrade, but I’d be willing to buy it if it meant better bleeding of the system. I also have their air operated kit. It’s a little better but still a poor connection at the bleeder screw. 🤷♂️ I guess it is what it is! Thanks for the suggestions!
Based on reviews with the aluminum cast model, it works great. However, there were negative reviews about this cheap plastic model. My question, where is the gage? Not having the gage will make hard to determine if there is a leak. The aluminum body model looks great.
Have you ever tried Speed Bleeders? They work really well. Thanks for the video!
Yup. I use the Russell ones. Like them much better than this product.
Great video!! I have always had good luck with the mitey vac.
I have not had the same luck. 😆
Just a thought: you think that restriction on the driver side front is due to the power booster being it’s the closest to it, you would think it would pull hard to the right when applied, maybe that booster knows what to send where.. just thinking
There was quite a bit of chunky stuff coming out of the bleeder. 😆 The calipers should be in this week so we’ll knock one apart and see what it looks like. Hopefully it’s isolated to that caliper and not in the line. I’d hate to fill the new one with that mess! We’ll know soon enough!
Those adapters suck! You will get air if the bleeder is opened too much. To get a good seal I take a smaller ID piece of clear hose and attach it to the hose from the kit. I then heat up a spare bleeder with a torch, then slide on the hose with the smaller ID. This will form to a tighter seal. If your still getting air bubbles then apply synthetic grease to the exposed bleeder threads.
Just my two cents: Mityvac is good for all else, but, not for me in getting all - that last part - air out. Wife's the key. 👍
That’s a pretty accurate way of putting it. I don’t think I could ever trust it to be the final step in bleeding the brakes.
Whatever
I quit buying Mityvac products. THEY SUCK! I bought the fluid evacuator and after maybe 20 uses it quit working. I was using it for transmission fluid. I eventually bought 3 of them over a pero=iod of 10 years. I eventually used two of them for parts to make one good one and threw the others in the trash can. I was a professional auto mechanic for over 20 years. You can get a better product for less money. That's my opinion.
I can’t imagine using it as a professional. My frustrations were only as a at home mechanic.
which better product do you recommend?