Honda S2000 CR: Adjusting Ride Height & Adding Spacers
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2017
- You can save yourself the wasted typing. I just learned I've been adjusting coilovers incorrectly for the past 15 or so years. I guess lesson learned. I just ordered a digital caliper to get my preload height back to Ohlins factory spec. Then I'll readjust the ride height.
Although I am learning more about suspensions the more time I take doing research: • The truth about Suspen...
I needed to dial in the height setting on the Ohlins suspension as well as getting the stance looking decent until I decide what wheels and brakes I want.
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Hey Matt, I'm pretty sure you adjusted your coilovers height incorrectly. Your Ohlin coilovers have a another locking ring where the shock body meets the sleeve. Loosen that and thin twist the shock body into the sleeve. This way, you adjust ride height without changing spring preload. The preload height adjustment is only seen on older/low end coilovers.
I noticed this as well, I had to look up his coils and see, but he is definitely adjusting the preload instead of the length of the shock.
Thumbs up this post so Matt sees it. You should never adjust the height from the spring preload. The lowest locking ring is where you adjust the height from.
Yup. That's not good.
Matt your preload is now "JUNK!".
Yeah, I just figured that out.
you are going to have to take off all 4 coilovers and readjust the preload off the car.
Well...you learn something new everyday. I knew I wasn't nuts. I just spent the last hour digging into pre-load adjustment. KW V3, my former various Tein coilovers, Bilstein, factory GT3, JRZ etc. and I've never had a separate height adjustment. Height and pre-load adjust have always been one in the same. I've order a vernier caliper and will the correct the DFVs back to factory spec. A follow-up video will be coming soon.
No worries. At least now you know how easy it will be next time you decide to change the height for what ever reason :)
Well, by accident, I'm not completely wrong on what I chose to do. What a great way to improve my knowledge on the topic. Screw it up. ua-cam.com/video/jjsocJxdlYA/v-deo.html
Looks like most of those styles had helper springs or ran progressive springs (usually adjust ride height & preload at the same time vs independent adjust like the Ohlins). Just a simple confusion.
Adding spring pre-load can add ride height, it also increases spring rate and the chances of coil binding.
So close to 100k. Can't wait to see you hit it!
Definitely looks better. But I believe you increased the preload which of course in return increased height. I adjusted my ohlins a few weeks ago and I loosened the lowest lock and turned the entire assembly. This preserves the recommended preload.
Rogelio Negrete I was thinking the same. The top locking rings adjust preload, the very bottom adjusts ride height.....At least thats the norm for traditional coilovers.
Great videos, loving the attention to detail 👍
Looks so clean Matt! Perfect height. And you definitely have a sleeper with those stock wheels
Great looking cr Matt. Love the channel. Don't worry about the ride height adjustment, I almost did the same with mine (how we learn).had my video on roads untraveled page, commenters always know what's best lol. Gives you a good laugh tho. Keep the videos coming.
Ha, ha... Everyone is going nuts about "pre-load." My guess is 90% of them don't know what that means. Cheap coilovers have threaded shock bodies. I had never seen this before. All other I have owned in the past have a longer shock.
Matt, the stance looks incredible. Well done! Matt, you're doing great, keep the videos coming. For safety, I would torque the adapter bolts and then the wheel lug nuts. If you are wondering how to torque the adapter bolts, you can take a screw driver or small pry bar and slide it between the brake caliper mounting bracket and brake rotor (inner rotor slots). This will cause the screw driver or small pry bar to stop the hub from spinning as you torque the adapter bolts. Warning: This may bend your screw driver / small pry bar, so use a tool you don't mind damaging. In any case, keep up the good work!
i was just about to let u know about the coilover adjustment lol but then i read the description 😂 i was also going to highly recommend extended wheel studs with spacers for the s2000 due to how short they are but ur spacers come with built in studs so ur good👍 keep up the videos man
and when i adjust coilovers i aleays count the number of threads not turns and i double check for the height off the ground after taking it for a spin around the block because springs can settle alot
Looks great. You adjusted the height wrong. the top lock collars are for preload on the spring. When increasing the height or lowering coilovers you turn the bottom perches to adjust not the top to preserve your preload settings. it will need to be reset or the ride will be uneven with the preload setting.
I like what tour doing with your s2k, thanks for the response on your last video, here's my question. .. I am concerned about my rear axles breaking from the power the supercharger is going to put down...should this be a concern or are the stock ones good to stay on?
Great videos keep them up
Great Content! I also love the fact that I just heard you on A Corporate Time with Tom and Dan. Friday's show.
Oh crap! I'll have to go listen.
Like others have said. I think you adjust the preload on the coilovers. The bottom ring nut (not sure the official name) is what you loosen and then spin the whole coilover to lower it and then tighten it. Basically, the top two ring nuts stay the same once the preload has been set.
A couple tips, if I may add. 1) Mark the retaining nuts that you are adjusting with a red and black (any contrasting colors work) at 12 and 6 o'clock. This way you can count full and half revolutions. Index or mark the shock body to mark you point of reference as you adjust. 2) I always measure from the bottom lip of the wheel (6 'o'clock) to the top of the fender arch (12 o'clock). This takes out any variable that the tire sidewall may or may not add due to inflation deltas from tire to tire. It's also a consistent spot for your tape measure to 'grab'. You may also want to put a piece of blue tape on the fender @ your specified 12 o'clock. Just to keep measurement reference points consistent throughout the entire process. Good work, Matt. Keep 'em coming!
I just ordered a caliper. I should probably order a torque wrench while I'm at it.
I didn't know 15 mm spacers worked on ap2 v3 wheels due to them not having the deep recesses in between the spokes to fit the spacer. How'd you get that to work? Do you have extended studs or have I been misinformed for years?
I have 20mm h&r spacers on my evo and they have been flawless.
These are the OG videos that I miss. Matt wrenching away on the car. Even though Matt adjusted the preload and not the height (which he now realizes), these types of videos are the best!
I think some people, not everyone. Understands the name "Obsessed Garage" lol he's not complaining, he's just pointing out imperfections. When you're passionate about something. You want it to be perfect. The new ride height looks great Matt 👍🏻
Hi Matt, did you get the H&R DRM spacers? If you ran 25mm spacers with integrated studs, you would've been okay with mating the factory CR/AP2V3 wheels on no problem. The issue though is that with a smaller spacer 15mm or 20mm, the OE studs extend far past the spacer itself so the dimples in the back of the wheel actually hits the OE studs. You can either drill deeper dimples into the wheel or do what I did and remove some length of the OE studs. This is a CR so I'm not 100% sure on how deep the dimples are on the back, but I'm fairly certain they should be the same specs as regular AP2V3 wheels, just a different colour.
Could you go with a Willwood kit in the rear I know the have they parking brake available for their rear brake kit? Just powder coat them to match the Endless kit to get rid of the logo.
J's racing has an upsized rear rotor kit for the rear. If I remember correctly, their brake kits are made by Endless for them
Hi Matt,I would like to know which jack you are using? Brand/liftcapacity?
Thx!
Matt, how are you coping with black paint? I washed my 991 black car today and one hour later there is already dust on it in an enclosed garage.
I like the change looks better
hey Matt just out of curiousity, what's your gas mileage after the supercharger was installed?
It's a classic look going with the Volk CE's but everyone else has them along with the RPF1's.
Nothing like a nice long S2000 video to finish off a Sunday night
I'm telling you Wilwood big brake kit. The rear has the e brake included. The only down side is the rears are very similar to stock. But at least they match lol.
If you're okay with running spacers with the big brake kit check out the Mugen MF10 wheels.
Definitely looks better with the increase in ride height and wheel spacers. You could get your big brakes and have a shop fabricate you a system to have an a second rear caliper strictly for the parking brake.
looks great.
Hey Matt, do you have the brand and model number of those front spacers, I can’t find 15mm fronts with built in studs from H&R, only find rear H&R 15mm with included studs, im guessing your fronts are not H&R brand? I seen John’s video on him having his front H&R shaved down from 20mm to 15mm, but I don’t know what was the outcome I can’t find his video now.
I think they were H&R. Maybe they don't make them any longer.
you're adjusting preload, you need to loosen the lock nut, then tighten, keep the springs taught, then 3-4 full turns for preload. and then set the ride height by threading the body into the lower half! clean s2k!
looks beautiful! you had to keep this car in storage bru
Did he do height correctly? I thought you had to spin the whole assembly to change it
what are you thinking for future wheels? something very light would be cool.
Volk CE28N
It is a process brother. Some people will call it complaining, but its analysis. You observe and analyze and adjust....and repeat. Sometimes repeat a lot lol.
You got it.
When jacking the car up, there are two frame rails at the front of the car one close to the fender one a little further back near the door, use the one nearer to the door, or the second one. The first one can buckle and damage your fenders.
^ this
Looks good now!!
when will you remove the wing?
I won't be.
Hey Matt, I know this is an older video, but where did you get the front H&R 15mm spacers with integrated-studs (DRM) from?
Apparently, they don’t make them anymore, as I can’t find them anywhere.
They just make the “DRS” version now, which requires replacing OEM studs with extended ones.
I bought them used on S2Ki.
@@ObsessedGarage Thanks for the reply.
That really sucks though.
I guess not enough people were buying them.
You may have messed with your preload, just make sure all 4 corners are the same preload now that you adjusted the top lock.
Hey Matt, you mentioned about a BBK but cant find some for the rear? Have you looked at J's Racing or Project mu? They both have font and rear brake upgrade for the S2k.
I think they only do updgrades to the rear, not a full kit. I know the Endless rear kit, but it's like $7,000.
Can't wait for the savagegeese podcast! His videos are great.
We had a great discussion today.
You did change your preload by adjusting the height that way. You can spin the whole unit if you just want the height raised.
Matt, keep doing what you're doing. I learn a lot from your videos. Don't let the haters get to you. You know what is best, they don't. Keep it up.
When you are raising or lowering the car measure from the center of the hub to the fender. That way you aren't gessing how many turnes u need
Looks like you adjusted the pre-load instead of the height adjustment. You needed to loosen the bottom ring and do your height adjustments from there. btw car looks very nice.
yea keep those 2 rings at the top locked together and just undo the bottom ring once loose place your spanner on one of the top 2 rings and turn the whole shock body and that lowers the shock
hey Matt, what floor jack is that? i like the square pad on it... never seen that before and im looking to buy one soon.
It's a 10 year old Pittsburgh cheapo. They don't make that one any longer.
Do you think you would go with gold color rims? Always a nice color balance!
Bronze
Mark the collar with a sharpie so you can accurately count turns.
I did not see any jack stands. Not to be picky, but safety first. Keep up the good work. Plenty to learn just going through the process.
I wasn't under the car, so it wasn't going to hurt anything.
Your legs were at one point. But thats me being picky. Nothing I have not done before. Car is awesome.
Hey Matt, Don't take this the wrong way. I am in no way trying to hate on the car or you. I've been watching your videos and listening to Dial In podcast for a while and have a lot of respect for you. I was just wondering if you had notice how your rear bumper fits. The area that I am talking about is the same on either side. It is where the bumper and the rear quarter meet right in the arch. It looks as if that area is sunken in. I didn't know if this is just the way the S2K is or if there was a fitment issue. You can see what I am trying to explain right at 4:35. I can't wait for you to dial in this paint; although it looks awesome as it is. I have to black vehicles and I am so nervous to cut and polish the years of incorrect paint maintenance as I literally never touched a dual action polisher in my life.
S2000's always have that weird gap there.
Obsessed Garage, oh ok then.
One way to settle the car, after jacking up and then down, that I have used over the years was just to release the handbrake and engage it again. The car will move front or back a bit and will settle. I don't think there is a need to open the door and jump on the car.
Agree! I've been using this method for a long time, especially if it's the rear I've had lifted. While the e-brake is off I'll use a wheel spoke and move the car back & forth a little too help the susp finds its happy place.
Awesome job btw! The car looks beautiful
Well... it is good that you counted the turns because now you have to adjust it back like it was and change the ride height correctly from the correct most bottom coil nut :)
No worries, though, it is much easier than doing it from the top where you actually adjust the spring load - you just measure the change you want and screw the threaded tube out from the bottom sleeve accordingly. Before you start messing around with it again, adjust back the top nuts, then measure distance between lower top nut and bottom nut and adjust same distance on other side to get same pre-load. Then start changing the height from bottom.
I have no idea what you are taking about.
Awww man! More Honda? I gotta take a brake... lemme know when Honda and mustang phase is done?
Matt, go with the s2k spec te37s that are concave. Those would look great on your car and are bbk friendly for most brakes.
They're a 17x9.5 +41 for reference.
Those poke and require either aftermarket fenders or lots of pulling of the OEM ones. I'm most likely doing 17x9.5ET50.
Obsessed Garage on a 245/40 it should only require a slight pull at a decent ride height. The slight stretch will also give better steering response. But yea, not everyone likes to pull their fenders so I can see where you're coming from.
You should get white led license plate bulbs,interior,and trunk,and de badge the fenders.
I think those always end up looking really odd.
i want to see the time you take to get it right because it show the real amount of effort it takes to work on your car to get it right.
Just a heads up if you were looking for your normal japanese wheels like volks or advans. It's quicker to go buy from a seller in japan. I bought my advan rsii wheels from perfectrun.jp. Ended up saving about a hundred bucks and got them here in about seven days.
There is quite a bit of OEM stagger on those cars. Will you go square?
Did he just adjust height with spring pre-load?
I was thinking the same thing. Cant recall if these have the ability to adjust height without doing that though.
This is the first set of coilovers I've ever had with independent adjustment.
I love to tinker, well said.
Yep...
hey what's up bud, thanks for another vid.. Question, why so long to get new wheels?
Custom orders from Japan generally take that long.
Obsessed Garage. so u want a custom Honda wheel? iv been buying aftermarket wheels for my cars for 20 years. I've been able to get very good quality within a week or two, what exactly is it are you wanting.
+50 offset is not made by Volk in individual quantities. Evasive order them in sets of 20.
Obsessed Garage. yeah those type of wheels don't come quickly, so you're going for the whole $900 per wheel type of thing. gotcha
They are $3200 for the package. My Klassen MS-03s on my M3 were $2200 each without tires, lugs, and TPMS.
Any videos filmed at the garage facility in the works?
Yes
What happened to your fence? Is that your repair or the neighborhoods?
Thanks for reminding me. I look at it everyday and tell myself I'm going to fix it. I'm sure it is the responsibility of the lot next to me, but I'm sure I'll have to fix it if I want it done.
I think you need lower control arms in the rear to correct your camber that you've been complaining about.
where do ypu live and what do you do for a living Matt? love the background. take care.
The Villages, FL Wealth Management
Obsessed Garage thank you good sir. Take care and keep making videos. I am learning a lot.
Anyone else surprised that Matt has stains on his concrete? It's normal for the rest of us...but he's OG
I have cum stains on mine
lol I think the same thing when he does vids in the washbay
Matt, measuring the body panel to adjust the ride height is not very accurate. Body panels aren't always squared between Left and right. The best way is to corner weigh the vehicle to have balanced weight across all wheels.
I don't have scales, so my only option is the measure.
U changed the preload instead of the height. The car has raised since the spring isnt compressing further, but u need to screw the lower mount to adjust the height. you should set preload at ohlins recommendations. Anything higher than that, you run the risk of unloading too much and the shock hitting the top of the shock body. Anything lower than that, you run the risk of compressing the valves and blowing the shocks if you bottom out.
Matt, be careful with those spacers. With the tires further out, they tend to pick up and throw rocks and other debris right at the rear quarter panels.
You want to torque those spacer nuts for sure. Ive seen wheels come off......!
He is OBSESSED of course it will sound like he is complaining, he is pointing out all the flaws lol.
What size spaces front and rear?
Shoot, this was a long time ago. I can't recall what they were.
You’re going to have to redo all of that...
Preload is screwed up on the shocks now. Anti seize on lugs is a massive no no as well. And yes please get a torque wrench!
Oops... Learn something new everyday.
Obsessed Garage Well everyone has to learn somehow!
Kurt Dawson I agree with you on the antiseize I've seen lug nuts come loose
I just figured out that I wasn't as stupid as I look. I've owned about 10 different sets of coilovers over the years. I installed every single one of them myself. This one I didn't. None of them have independent height adjustment. V3, PSS9, JRZ.
Obsessed Garage Yeah all my BMWs I’ve had to adjust the way you did here. I’m getting Ohlins for my e90 M3 and this style is new to me as well. Most kits tend to have a helper spring to take up the slack when the shock is at full travel.
I think you adjusted the preload, the height adjustment is the bottom collar
I've done a ton of reading about suspension geometry after making this video. I've never had this cheaper option for constructing a shock/coilover. Every single set I've had in my life, about 10 different types, have all had a longer shock with single height and preload adjustment. I've learned that the spring rate doesn't change no matter what the distance of the spring perch vs. top mount. I'll make a follow-up video soon making some more adjustments.
Todd at Esoteric who is detailing the car right now only deals with those Rims.
Would you ever consider vossen forged wheels?
This ain't a VIP build...
The style of Vossen generally doesn't appeal to me.
Obsessed Garage • understood. Would you consider wilwood brakes over the stop techs?
I don't think so. I really want some Endless brakes.
Best way to determine if both sides are even is by counting the threads on each side. Going off how many turns isn't accurate at all. You can do one big turn on one side and smaller turns on the other.
Jabba Hutt incorrect. Best way to measure coilover height is fender to ground assuming all adjustments were made correctly and tires are worn evenly
watch Andy'sAutosport coilover height adjustment
Did you sell the spacers?
Yeah...sold them while back.
the way you adjusted your ride height, is messing up the preload on the spring, you're suppose to turn the whole coilover to adjust height, not touch the two perches. You wont be able to use the coilovers to its full potential like that
Hmmm...I went back and looked at the photos of the shock body. I've been doing this wrong my whole life.
Obsessed Garage Happens to everyone
I just gave myself a lesson in suspension geometry. I knew I wasn't stupid. Most high-end coilover don't have independent height adjustment though a threaded shock body. That's typically reserved for cheaper designs. Phew... I thought I needed meds again.
what jack do you use?
www.harborfreight.com/25-Ton-Aluminum-Racing-Floor-Jack-with-RapidPump-62309.html
Obsessed Garage Thanks! 👌
If you want the OG of jack stands get ESCO Jack Stands, and an AC jack.
Get Harbor Freight’s Daytona jack. Snap-on clone for only $200. Awesome jack.
Can you please make a comparison video of your sc s2k vs gt3? Oh and nice choice going endless, keep it Jdm!
Where is the mustang ? Is my dream car. And i hope you didnt sold it ?? :) love your channel
He didn't its just chillin in storage or the garage or wherever
RCXDerp good. I hope NOT he changes it for an BMW. The Mustang Sound good look good and drive good. BMW. Yeahh But borroing
It'd have to be a hell of a BMW for him to change, I wish they still made the dinan stroker for the e92 that would be the only thing I'd rather see than the 350 for him
While I'm against using spacers, at least you intend on getting properly fitting wheels at some point
Why would you be against using spacers.
Obsessed Garage Probably from past experiences. They have a tendency to stress your wheel bearings prematurely, affect steering geometry and whatnot but most of the negatives relate to track use
Obsessed Garage That said, quality hub centric spacers shouldn't be that much of an issue but from past experience they just left a bad taste in my mouth I guess
I would invest in a car lift for your garage.
you could've lossened up the bottom lock ring and spun the whole shock to your desired height. What you did was raised the car but made it more stiffer. If you wanted the same ride, thats what the bottom lock nut is for.
it wont make it stiffer, but it will mess up his pre-load
rider147b yes!! You're right! Thanks for the correction.
I had no idea this even existed. I've always had higher end coilovers. Separate height adjustment has always been on less expensive shocks. Lesson learned. Bilstein, JRZ, Moton, KW all have a single height/pre-load adjustment.
I did all this on my F80 M3, and it drove me nuts. This one I wanted to be more plug and play, and then I end up learning a whole new lesson.
Next time count threads, easiest with a flathead screwdriver and gently run it down the threads feeling them and counting them
I bought a verier caliper for future use.
You have a lot of mechanics watching your channel lol
Ha, ha... Everyone's an expert, except me apparently.
You don’t rub on big bumps
for 100k you should do a montage of washing your car. you know... slow motion when foaming,some music... hahaa i know you don't do that but just for the joke like 3-5 min video
Way better stance looks more grown-up
Nice and flush but your body panels are gonna pay with road rash!
Get RPF1s
Ouch fixing that preload isn't going to be easy.
Should take less than 10 minutes a corner.
true but then adjusting the height after you do the preload, just tedious and annoying i guess
I'm not super excited about doing it, but I won't be able to sleep until I correct it.
trust me, i had this issue on my s2000 where the height was uneven on some corners by as much as 1/4 to 1/2 an inch, i adjusted the suspension so many freakin times (preload and height) and it never became even, i found out after what feels like hundreds of adjustments that it was the coilovers even though I had them swapped as well.
I love that cr