Don't know what it is but I love these series of these 2 cars. Thank you so much for all your hard work and for sharing. Be safe all the best from England...
I don't believe you stated the year make of your Xterra. These Xterras also have a Light Diode that controls the ignition spark. Basically there is a disk inside the distributor that rotates with the Distributor. This Disk has holes that allow light to pass through them, these holes are oriented to detect 360 degrees of rotation and another set of holes to detect piston position. Sometimes due to age and wear, there's metal filings from friction of the distributor that get created inside the distributor housing. These filings will block the holes on the disk and create misfires because the diode light cannot penetrate the holes to give the CPU the correct information of crankshaft position and piston position resulting in misfire. You need to remove distributor cap and with an air gun blow away those metal fillings if they exist. I did this also with my Xterra , even though I couldn't actually see any meta filings it was misfiring , I replaced the distributor with a NISSAN DISTRIBUTOR (NO AFTERMARKET DISTRIBUTOR !!) NO MORE MISFIRES after the replacement. As mentioned earlier you need to completely cover the basics, Compression, Ignition and fuel. There are other diagnostic tests that can be performed, but you need an Oscilloscope and know how to operate it. As well as checking the Plugs for Carbon streaks, the Injector voltage pattern and current patterns, secondary ignition wavefroms, primary ignition waveforms, for many of these checks you need specialized electronic test tools.
seems to be a common problem with Vg33E engines, Bearing below the disk with holes goes bad and can be replaced, on the cheap too. Glad you were able to fix your misfire
Working on a '02Pathfinder,glad I seen your video, lots info..especially about the colored Dots,but I didn't catch how the 4th #of the Vin told you what color was correct??
Hi, just bought the new ones also and I had only 1 day to enjoy the car but again boom, the problem seem to rise again. I think I will have to test the old ones ......thank you for this video
Price: It appears you got the SUV for a good price but I have noticed you have put a lot of time and money into it. If a normal person had to pay a mechanic to perform all the repairs you have done. The repair cost would be more than the value of the SUV.
Best method to use to confirm fuel injector performance is to do a Fuel Injector Balance test. Basically, you use a Fuel Pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail. Prime the Fuel Pump with ignition on, monitor the FP gauge and then activate a Fuel Injector with a Fuel Injector test tool. Do this test for all Fuel Injectors, basically if the Fuel Pressure rail drops from prime pressure (~ 34 psi) to (~26 psi) this 8 psi drop should occur on ALL your injectors, confirming fuel flow is good, any injector NOT having similar fuel drop pressures need to be replaced.
What if they are all only dropping 4 psi let's say for example. Could you assume they all are dirty? Is there a spec % drop that you should generally look for? Kind of like doing a relative compression test is good but it could be misleading if the compression is low across all cylinders. Thats why when I do relative compression check I test compression at 1 cylinder to get a baseline
The main result you're looking for when doing an injector balance test, is that all injector readings are within 10% or less. Another method to confirm status of injectors, is to monitor the front injector data pids via scanner while open throttle for narrow band o2 sensors reading should 0.8 volts or greater during entire time of open throttle. Also , at the same time monitor the fuel pressure at the rail and should Not drop below approximately 38 psi while in open throttle. You didn't mention why you are suspecting clogged injectors? There are plenty of faulty operating components that can cause a poor performing engine. Hope this helps. Rember the basics, Compression, Fuel and Ignition systems ALL have to be in peak performance operating condition.
@FAUSTO GONZALEZ I figured dirty injectors cause I believe no mechanical issues to be causing my shaky idle...I ran a vacuum gauge on and got steady reading of 22 inches....I also changed spark plugs wires and coilpack....I'm leading to fuel delivery as only issue if it is engine performance related... I would think mounts but it is a shake and not a vibration....also it is worse in park/neutral than it is in drive which is opposite what I thought was true with bad mounts.... Also my fuel trims are a little on the lean side...at idle it varies but I have seen +4% bank 1 and +10% bank 2 long term....short term is better
What is your RPM Idle at Engine warm conditions? You may need to check your IAC valve which is the noperation at Idle and a critical component. Also, I had a similar problem, check the output of the TPS sensor, should be approximately 0.58 V, monitor this value with Scanner, in my case it was fluctuating and Not steady. This Sensor has a major direct input to CPU for Idle control, it should have a rock steady value at Idle. In addition, your bank 2 is leaner with respect to bank 1, get a water bottle and squirt some water at the base of bank 2 intake manifold, if there's a vacuum leak the water will temporarily seal the leak and your short term o2 front sensor should respond by going negative. Also, you need to confirm proper operation of front O2 sensors, this is CRITICAL. You can insert Propane into any manifold vacuum line and both O2 front sensors should read 0.8 V or greater, also check the front O2 sensor response while removing the Brake booster vacuum line and both front O2 sensors should go negative to approximately 0.2 V, that's how you confirm correct operation of Narrow Band sensors, the front O2 sensors. I replaced my TPS sensor when I was having fluctuating Idle RPM, and it fixed the problem. USE ONLY NISSAN OEM SENSORS, ETC or you will results with further problems.
As long as you are replacing ALL 6 injectors the color codes don’t matter. Only when you are replacing less than all six do you need to match color dots.
My girlfriend's xterra is dying this. Did a tune up first in hopes that would do it. Plugs wires cap and rotor. Nothing. I'm 90% sure it's injectors. I hope it's bank one because i really do not want to take the intake off if i can avoid it but it looks like I'll have to.
What were your fuel trims BEFORE? I am dying to know....I'm sitting at around +3% bank 1 and sometimes up to +10% bank 2.....it varies though sometimes it is better but at idle is never down to 0%....best I got at idle is +3.9% bank 2
hello can you help me to know what is the range of the pressure of the gasoline pump of a 2001 nissan frontier se-v6 3.3l I hope you can help me thanks
I bought 6 rebuilt nissan injectors NOT the chineese ones and i had it running PERFECTLEY but i didnt start the engine for two weeks because i had to work on the transmission valve body. So i started it up today and its shaking and running like shit AGAIN and white smoke is comming out of the exhaust and i get a #6 cylinder misfire code . I pull the #6 plug wire off and it makes no difference in the engine at all so its definatley that cylinder . So i pull the rebuilt injector out and it looks like a tiny sliver of another o ring is left on the injector. I lubed then very well but mabey i did this but the cylinder was full of raw gas when i turned it over with the spark plug out
I just put a brand new set of injectors in my 2000 after a month I lost compression on a cylinder I just got my jdm engine in about to pull the engine and swap them I was gonna do the timing chain and get the head done but I said why my motors got 230k I'll just swap it for a low mileage one like 400 dollars more but no high mileage bottom in new low mileage motor
My 2004 3.3 runs and revs good from idle but has no power to get up my driveway but put it in neutral it revs perfect. i replaced the plugs wires but i noticed the dist cap and rotor were made in 2003 it stumbles but not all the time, the vehicle has 277,000 miles on it, i replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump, i dont think the filter had ever been off since new, i cut it open and oh my god there was a lot of rusty brown mess inside, im going to put a new cap and rotor on and if that doesnt fix it i guess ill pull the injectors off and clean them or replace them. I just rebuilt the transmission because it had no reverse
i have 2002 nissan xterra i have fuel from pump but at fuel rail it doesn't spray i put fuel into throttle body it fires up i'm getting voltage to the injectors what should i do
check to see if it has a fuel diaphram. i usually use a fuel rail gauge to see how much fuel pressure you have. i had a vehicle with low fuel pressure and had a good pump. problem was in the fuel rail fuel diaphram (it was bad).
Chinese parts screw me on a regular basis. Probably will just get some from the junk yard, thanks for the info on the different injectors. Didn't realize those markings
I just purchased the new hitachi ones. And I'm wondering, have you ever had a hydro lock situation due to a leaking injector? I'm about to replace 3 and see if this is the problem. I'm not using coolant. And I've had this problem for years now. Seems like when its 40° or colder out, the 1st time I go to start the truck its hydrolocking. I force the new starter passed it, and it never messes up the rest of the day. No codes, no misfires, and only when it's cold out. All summer and spring this doesn't happen. Does this sound like a leaky injector to you? I haven't installed them yet, and I've changed everything in this engine. Had it since new. This is an issue the last few years. Timing Mark's are dead on. And I recently had the engine replaced due to bent valves when someone who didn't know how to change the water pump set the timing wrong. Thanks.
Check ignition system...start with plugs or if you have a coilpack/cop then test the strength of the spark by pulling it off the coil tower/spark plug and see how far of a gap it can jump
That is a top tier noted gasoline. Phillip's 66 proven to have 33% additional detergents. I'm not here to pick but share. I have 09 Impala 230k miles smooth as silk no additives ever used.
i just replaced mine with some ebay ones that were supposed to be oem and cleaned. i have one that is leaking badly. i just contacted them to see if they will replace it. my originals were in supper bad shape. i ended up tossing them. i should have held on to them and rebuilt them myself. i totally F'ckd up. hopefully they will make it right, or i will roast them on ebay reviews.
Great tip on the impact screw driver
Thanks for listing all the steps you took and what you discovered along the way.
Thanks so much this totally solved my injector problem . Thanks for the vin tip
Don't know what it is but I love these series of these 2 cars. Thank you so much for all your hard work and for sharing. Be safe all the best from England...
Thank you for your time to help us xterra owners ✌️👍
Great!
I don't believe you stated the year make of your Xterra. These Xterras also have a Light Diode that controls the ignition spark. Basically there is a disk inside the distributor that rotates with the Distributor. This Disk has holes that allow light to pass through them, these holes are oriented to detect 360 degrees of rotation and another set of holes to detect piston position. Sometimes due to age and wear, there's metal filings from friction of the distributor that get created inside the distributor housing. These filings will block the holes on the disk and create misfires because the diode light cannot penetrate the holes to give the CPU the correct information of crankshaft position and piston position resulting in misfire. You need to remove distributor cap and with an air gun blow away those metal fillings if they exist. I did this also with my Xterra , even though I couldn't actually see any meta filings it was misfiring , I replaced the distributor with a NISSAN DISTRIBUTOR (NO AFTERMARKET DISTRIBUTOR !!) NO MORE MISFIRES after the replacement. As mentioned earlier you need to completely cover the basics, Compression, Ignition and fuel. There are other diagnostic tests that can be performed, but you need an Oscilloscope and know how to operate it. As well as checking the Plugs for Carbon streaks, the Injector voltage pattern and current patterns, secondary ignition wavefroms, primary ignition waveforms, for many of these checks you need specialized electronic test tools.
seems to be a common problem with Vg33E engines, Bearing below the disk with holes goes bad and can be replaced, on the cheap too. Glad you were able to fix your misfire
Thanks Nathan
Working on a '02Pathfinder,glad I seen your video, lots info..especially about the colored Dots,but I didn't catch how the 4th #of the Vin told you what color was correct??
Hi, just bought the new ones also and I had only 1 day to enjoy the car but again boom, the problem seem to rise again. I think I will have to test the old ones ......thank you for this video
Nice!!
She's sounding real nice, man. Greetings from Stafford, Virginia.
Thanks... Very good video on fuel injector issues
Nice!
Watching from Haiti , thanks fir the video
Nice!!
Maybe used might be the way to go. Is there a way to pull injector 3 without pulling the rail???
Hummmm
Hi from the U.K love the video.
Good stuff, thanks from Oregon
Great!
Price: It appears you got the SUV for a good price but I have noticed you have put a lot of time and money into it. If a normal person had to pay a mechanic to perform all the repairs you have done. The repair cost would be more than the value of the SUV.
My 2003.frontier 3.3 supercharged has a rough idle everything elss is great. What was your symptoms?
Finicky fuel injectors 101 Haha Some vehicles only behave with OEM injectors. It's snowing every 3 days up here in Central New Hampshire
Did you take the plenum manifold to change them on that side or could you do so without?
At first yea. But I did put the original ones back in on that side because they were ok after changing out new ones that were the wrong ones.
Thanks from Ohio.
Cool !!
Best method to use to confirm fuel injector performance is to do a Fuel Injector Balance test. Basically, you use a Fuel Pressure gauge connected to the fuel rail. Prime the Fuel Pump with ignition on, monitor the FP gauge and then activate a Fuel Injector with a Fuel Injector test tool. Do this test for all Fuel Injectors, basically if the Fuel Pressure rail drops from prime pressure (~ 34 psi) to (~26 psi) this 8 psi drop should occur on ALL your injectors, confirming fuel flow is good, any injector NOT having similar fuel drop pressures need to be replaced.
Nice!
What if they are all only dropping 4 psi let's say for example. Could you assume they all are dirty? Is there a spec % drop that you should generally look for?
Kind of like doing a relative compression test is good but it could be misleading if the compression is low across all cylinders. Thats why when I do relative compression check I test compression at 1 cylinder to get a baseline
The main result you're looking for when doing an injector balance test, is that all injector readings are within 10% or less. Another method to confirm status of injectors, is to monitor the front injector data pids via scanner while open throttle for narrow band o2 sensors reading should 0.8 volts or greater during entire time of open throttle. Also , at the same time monitor the fuel pressure at the rail and should Not drop below approximately 38 psi while in open throttle. You didn't mention why you are suspecting clogged injectors? There are plenty of faulty operating components that can cause a poor performing engine. Hope this helps. Rember the basics, Compression, Fuel and Ignition systems ALL have to be in peak performance operating condition.
@FAUSTO GONZALEZ I figured dirty injectors cause I believe no mechanical issues to be causing my shaky idle...I ran a vacuum gauge on and got steady reading of 22 inches....I also changed spark plugs wires and coilpack....I'm leading to fuel delivery as only issue if it is engine performance related...
I would think mounts but it is a shake and not a vibration....also it is worse in park/neutral than it is in drive which is opposite what I thought was true with bad mounts....
Also my fuel trims are a little on the lean side...at idle it varies but I have seen +4% bank 1 and +10% bank 2 long term....short term is better
What is your RPM Idle at Engine warm conditions? You may need to check your IAC valve which is the noperation at Idle and a critical component. Also, I had a similar problem, check the output of the TPS sensor, should be approximately 0.58 V, monitor this value with Scanner, in my case it was fluctuating and Not steady. This Sensor has a major direct input to CPU for Idle control, it should have a rock steady value at Idle. In addition, your bank 2 is leaner with respect to bank 1, get a water bottle and squirt some water at the base of bank 2 intake manifold, if there's a vacuum leak the water will temporarily seal the leak and your short term o2 front sensor should respond by going negative. Also, you need to confirm proper operation of front O2 sensors, this is CRITICAL. You can insert Propane into any manifold vacuum line and both O2 front sensors should read 0.8 V or greater, also check the front O2 sensor response while removing the Brake booster vacuum line and both front O2 sensors should go negative to approximately 0.2 V, that's how you confirm correct operation of Narrow Band sensors, the front O2 sensors. I replaced my TPS sensor when I was having fluctuating Idle RPM, and it fixed the problem. USE ONLY NISSAN OEM SENSORS, ETC or you will results with further problems.
Does the intake manifold have to come off to replace these?
Bank 1 no, bank 2... unfortunately yes
As long as you are replacing ALL 6 injectors the color codes don’t matter. Only when you are replacing less than all six do you need to match color dots.
My girlfriend's xterra is dying this. Did a tune up first in hopes that would do it. Plugs wires cap and rotor. Nothing. I'm 90% sure it's injectors. I hope it's bank one because i really do not want to take the intake off if i can avoid it but it looks like I'll have to.
What were your fuel trims BEFORE? I am dying to know....I'm sitting at around +3% bank 1 and sometimes up to +10% bank 2.....it varies though sometimes it is better but at idle is never down to 0%....best I got at idle is +3.9% bank 2
-14 on one side +4 on 2nd side.
@@FixingWithPassion thank you for the response....interesting I thought i would see lean trims if they were dirty
my 2000 Xterra blows heavy gassy white smoke after injector swap that i got from amazon. Had an initial miss and rough idle
O my!~
wrong injectors ,same with mine . put old injectors back in runs fine. look for dot. code.
hello can you help me to know what is the range of the pressure of the gasoline pump of a 2001 nissan frontier se-v6 3.3l I hope you can help me thanks
Thank you I almost bought some on eBay
Glad I could help
I bought 6 rebuilt nissan injectors NOT the chineese ones and i had it running PERFECTLEY but i didnt start the engine for two weeks because i had to work on the transmission valve body. So i started it up today and its shaking and running like shit AGAIN and white smoke is comming out of the exhaust and i get a #6 cylinder misfire code . I pull the #6 plug wire off and it makes no difference in the engine at all so its definatley that cylinder . So i pull the rebuilt injector out and it looks like a tiny sliver of another o ring is left on the injector. I lubed then very well but mabey i did this but the cylinder was full of raw gas when i turned it over with the spark plug out
O wow!!
Hello from Conroe Texas.
Hey~!
Wow in spring here👍
I just put a brand new set of injectors in my 2000 after a month I lost compression on a cylinder I just got my jdm engine in about to pull the engine and swap them I was gonna do the timing chain and get the head done but I said why my motors got 230k I'll just swap it for a low mileage one like 400 dollars more but no high mileage bottom in new low mileage motor
My 2004 3.3 runs and revs good from idle but has no power to get up my driveway but put it in neutral it revs perfect. i replaced the plugs wires but i noticed the dist cap and rotor were made in 2003 it stumbles but not all the time, the vehicle has 277,000 miles on it, i replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump, i dont think the filter had ever been off since new, i cut it open and oh my god there was a lot of rusty brown mess inside, im going to put a new cap and rotor on and if that doesnt fix it i guess ill pull the injectors off and clean them or replace them. I just rebuilt the transmission because it had no reverse
O my!~
use 2x telephoto on your cam and move object further from the camera
i have 2002 nissan xterra i have fuel from pump but at fuel rail it doesn't spray i put fuel into throttle body it fires up i'm getting voltage to the injectors what should i do
check to see if it has a fuel diaphram. i usually use a fuel rail gauge to see how much fuel pressure you have. i had a vehicle with low fuel pressure and had a good pump. problem was in the fuel rail fuel diaphram (it was bad).
i wonder if injector cleaner would have fixed it.
I did Seafoam...It made the spark plugs white...lol But did nothing or the injectors.
Hello from Conroe, Texas.
Chinese parts screw me on a regular basis. Probably will just get some from the junk yard, thanks for the info on the different injectors. Didn't realize those markings
I've got the same issue only no codes. Same bank. I'm not pegging at 25 tho.
I just purchased the new hitachi ones. And I'm wondering, have you ever had a hydro lock situation due to a leaking injector? I'm about to replace 3 and see if this is the problem. I'm not using coolant. And I've had this problem for years now. Seems like when its 40° or colder out, the 1st time I go to start the truck its hydrolocking. I force the new starter passed it, and it never messes up the rest of the day. No codes, no misfires, and only when it's cold out. All summer and spring this doesn't happen. Does this sound like a leaky injector to you? I haven't installed them yet, and I've changed everything in this engine. Had it since new. This is an issue the last few years. Timing Mark's are dead on. And I recently had the engine replaced due to bent valves when someone who didn't know how to change the water pump set the timing wrong. Thanks.
I'm having acceleration issues. Normal idle no engine light. Any ideas?
Check ignition system...start with plugs or if you have a coilpack/cop then test the strength of the spark by pulling it off the coil tower/spark plug and see how far of a gap it can jump
Use shell v power gas..
That is a top tier noted gasoline. Phillip's 66 proven to have 33% additional detergents. I'm not here to pick but share. I have 09 Impala 230k miles smooth as silk no additives ever used.
hello from middleport ohio
i just replaced mine with some ebay ones that were supposed to be oem and cleaned. i have one that is leaking badly. i just contacted them to see if they will replace it. my originals were in supper bad shape. i ended up tossing them. i should have held on to them and rebuilt them myself. i totally F'ckd up. hopefully they will make it right, or i will roast them on ebay reviews.
obviously you changed out fuel filter first
Fix is in my play list.