4 Ways of Testing a Hot Tub Heater Element [ Step by Step ]
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- 4 Ways of Testing a Hot Tub Heater Element
In this video, I'm going to show you how to test a hot tub heater element in 4 ways. Testing your hot tub heater element is a very good way of finding out if the heater element is tripping the GFCI breaker or even heating your hot tub properly.
👀 This video is NOT sponsored. Some product links are affiliate links which means if you buy something we'll receive a small commission.
👀Donations: www.paypal.com/ncp/payment/YG...
1️⃣Multimeter
amzn.to/3TgO1i0 CANADA
amzn.to/3Tcb0dQ USA
amzn.to/3JNaZtM UK
2️⃣Capacitor Tester
amzn.to/3FnZ42V CANADA
amzn.to/42476YF USA
3️⃣Pool Teflon Tape
amzn.to/3qxIG8p CANADA
amzn.to/3BNTANP USA
4️⃣Volts and Amps Tester
amzn.to/37qsKyA CANADA
amzn.to/3Mej4Gl USA
5️⃣Pool and Hot Tub Wrench
amzn.to/3KWmdKI CANADA
amzn.to/3vtslDv USA
6️⃣Pool O-Ring Lube
amzn.to/3Eq40mq CANADA
amzn.to/3KVn2Du USA
7️⃣Pool and Hot Tub Silicone
amzn.to/3JTkCnA CANADA
amzn.to/3uRwj9V USA
👀 Legal Notice: Any electrical connected to your hot tub or swimming pool should be worked on by a licensed electrician or service technician. Please call your local pool/hot tub Technician for a service call before doing any work yourself.
#hottubtesting #testhottubelement #hottubelement #hottubtripsbreaker - Навчання та стиль
We are getting very busy with UA-cam and our video comments. At the same time we are trying to run a pool and hot tub business. Unfortunately, we will limit our comment responses to our Members. Consider becoming a Member: ua-cam.com/channels/7rBDbZ5XT4QtOouN6PTKXQ.htmljoin
Thank you for your help.
Thank you!!!🙏
You are so welcome
Good deal
Can you please help,,,i have a Balboa 4kw hetaer, my spa has 240v going to it when i test the blk & Red wires coming from the breaker - i also get 120v when i test each leg individual, common & Red and Common and Black, however my breaker trips when i connect the left lead to it, not the right, i measured for voltage and i am only getting 120v on that left lead that goes to the heater but i get zero volts on the right lead. When testing the heater for continuity it seems to have continuity and test fine, what can be the problem?....Im supposed to get 240v when testing both leads that connect to the heater correct.
Breaker or GFCI is wired wrong. If it's a new wiring too the tub, that would be your issue
Ive got a twilight series like the one you had on the right rear with the Balboa element. My multimeter reads OL for ohms. Can I assume thats zero?
NO. This means that the meter cannot accurately measure or display the value being tested, and it shows OL instead. Meter set too low for the ohms or just can't read anything. Doesn't mean it 0. Just means the meter can't read it.
i got it fix,one of black wire relay dont work. l filed contact .that all it take
thanks
Hi there, I have a balboa 4.0kw heater. The gfci breaker shuts off periodically (could be 20 minutes, could be 24 hours) Getting 240 voltage all the way to the elements. Unplugged the heater for 3 days and no issue.
Should I try cleaning the element before replacing the whole heater?
Just replace the element. Still be something else after anyway. Could be the breaker. Try the element first.
Hey there. I have a balboa bp that isn’t heating. When checking voltage across the heater I’m not getting anything. When checking resistance I’m getting 22ohms. It’s a brand new heater element in there. What do you think it could be?
Thanks
Did you test volts ? No volts means it's a board issue. If you had volts, more then likely it's an element.
First 3 methods are great! The fourth method is incorrect for measuring current. To use test leads, it is necessary to break the hot wire and put the test leads in series. Your method would create a short and likely blow the breaker. The amp meter creates a short circuit between the leads to complete the circuit.
SH%T thanks for seeing that one. lol Forgot to say to disconnect the one side.
When checking the heater for volts and amps you have to make sure the pack is calling for heat so it is actually sending power to the heater. You should also check the connectionswere the power comes from the boar to make sure power is cgoing to the heater.
So if I put a meter to the two brass contacts feeding power to the heater, should they always be at 120 each or just when the switches kick on for heat?
I hope you are still seeing comments. My hottub has gfci cord. When plugged in hottub comes on but no heat. When I press test. The light goes out and doesn't come back on until I unplug and plug in again. The cord has been replaced since the original cord. I replaced a controller I think it was called that sits on the heater tube. The hot tub was working after that. I had drained the tub for winter and refilled it. That was when it wasn't heating. I checked to electrical panel. It looks good. The prongs on the cord did look burnt. I tried to file those to make a good connection. I haven't tested with the meter yet. Just wondering should I be looking at the cord or the heater?
The 110v cords are known for burning at the connection. Where the wires go into the terminal block, does it look ok? Not burnt? Test the power coming into the spa pack and test the element.
Your a busy guy! I have a good one. 10 Ohms on the element, connected it directly to 220v source on the board (temporarily), clip on Amp Meter is drawing 11.2 amps across one lead. When I do the math that should be closer to 24 amps. it is a 5500 watt element. Won't get passed 97 degrees with no filter. Thoughts?
Sensor issue or programming I would say
Change the heat sensor and a 5500kw element should have around 23amps
Thanks it’s hot wired direct so the element is not using any control system to turn it on.
question, i don't currently have an amp meter but i checked the voltage going to each lead and it was indicating 75V. it's a 4.5kw heater in a 240v system. Ideas?
Have to test the amps next or just change out the heater element and see. 75v isn't a good thing. Should have around 240v on that. As per my video.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas after taking out the board, the solder connection of one of the heater relay terminas blew out. Jumper cable from the equivalent spade terminal on top of the relay to the heater element advisable?
@@charlie0801 well, that would explain the 75volts.
Great video.
My 240v 3k heater hot tub is tripping breaker as soon as it is turned on. When I disconnect the power plug for element at the circuit board the hot tub will run with no faults.
With element disconnected I have done the tests as per the video.
Tests show:
Element is 20ohms and continuity is good.
Volts test from multi plug prongs at circuit board
1 prone to ground shows 240 volt.
1 Prong to ground shows 1.5 volt.
Both prong shows 30 volt.
Any ideas?
Could be the heater telay
@VIP Pools and Spas ok thanks. Just to confirm. should I have 120volt at each prong and 240volt across both prongs?
@@jamiereilly4015 yes
Can you advise on how I pin point the relay faulty relay on the board? Is it the relay closest to the element multi plug?
@@jamiereilly4015 Need a picture of the spa pack circuit board. Send to info@vippools.ca
HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26,I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat then flashes, but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?
You will not feel the heat from the heat tube when its warming up.
Can you send me a picture of the circuit board. I want to see where the dip switches are. And take a picture of the schematics behind the cover of the spa pack. send to info@vippools.ca
My 2 yr old Lifesmart LS600DX is tripping the breaker. When I remove the two hots going to the heater element from the control panel, the breaker doesn’t trip. But I measure a good almost 15ohm resistance on the element. Any ideas? Connects seem solid. I can’t test the Voltage or Current since it trips too quickly.
Change the element
@@VIPPoolsandSpas thanks. I did verify that I am getting 240v to the element from the two screws in board so sounds like element or sensor is bad, right?
@@djryan8944 a sensor would give an error code. Change the element and you'll be good to go.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas thanks!
Hoping you can help. I have the balboa vs100 control board and heater. My hot tub is not heating past 71 degrees. Filters are clean and in standard mode (mot economy or sleep). I followed your steps. Test passed ohms, and continuity test. However, the voltage test seems bad. At my control board and across the heater element leads I only get 20 volts. But if I touch a heater lead and the ground or a heater element lead to the heater manifold I'm getting 120 VOlts. My hot tub is wired for 240V. What do you think could be wrong.
Sounds like a relay issue. Can you see any burn marks or melting on the circuit board? Is your heat tube have the black cover or the clear cover?
Also, are you getting 240v coming into the tub from the house?
@@VIPPoolsandSpas clear cover
@@VIPPoolsandSpas yes
@@successfulguy change out that heat tube. It's that whole thing. With the cord. All info is on that tube.
Do the heater elements have fuses on the board?
Most do not. The old stuff did.
I am working with a Shoreline Model: PSL800 BWN LXCZS
I am getting continuity and reading 12 ohms with the element. I am not getting any Volts when the power is on though. Not sure what do to next… any help?
I am getting a reading for 22V at the heater posts on the board.
The rule is (as long as there's a call for heat), if you get 240v and no amps it would be the element. If you get no volts or "some" volts, its on the board side. Heater relay most likely. Test volts coming into the spa pack. Both on the black and red.
Tested the volts coming into the pack and they are at 240. Must be the heat relay. Should I buy a new pack or take it in to get repaired?
@@trevernordlund1652 get it tested to make sure. Electronic guy
I’ve got a Balboa M7 and heater is getting up to temperature initially and holds for about a day, then for whatever reason won’t hold temperature and fades down to around 88-90. I powered off the tub and ohms are good and continuity. Powered back up and could hear tub call for heat but only held 240v for about five seconds then off and volts dropped to about 23. Powered tub off, and just reset it recently and it’s now heating up steadily to 99. What gives? Is it the tape on sensors?
How many pumps? Is there a circ pump or does pump 1 heat it on low speed?
Test the amps when you get 240volts. If you get 240volts or around that, the board is doing it's job. Tells me it's the element. BUT. Your saying you also get a lower volt reading at 23volts after it drops from 240volts?
It’s a Calspa System 2000 with two pumps. Yeah strangest thing yesterday during troubleshooting, I would switch on from breaker, it would prime for 30 seconds and top side temperature would show and call for heat. You would hear heat switch on and display 240v for five seconds then hear it switch off and volts would bounce around from 23 all the way down to 7.
Left tub off overnight and switched back on today, primed and displayed 86 degrees. Set to 99 and it got up to temp no issues in three hours..
@@coreyk5536 don't worry what the display says about the volts. Use a meter to test the heater element and also the amps. Anything 85F and under is just the pump motor heating things up, not the element. What do you mean by "bounce around" this is on the topside display? Is the topside sticker/overlay beat up or old looking?
If you get volts at the heater element and no amps......change the element. If 0 ohms, change the element. If 0 volts, it's a board issue. NOTE: Make sure that the heater temp is set.
So my board is bad then? Ohms read good. But when I turn power on and test leads individual I get 120v at each. When I test them together looking for 240v I get zero. Is this correct?
@@kevinrumancik6190 what hot tub do you have? What spa pack do you have? Did you test amps?
@@VIPPoolsandSpas master spa ls
@@VIPPoolsandSpas 0 amps with power on
Ohms was 10.5 with power off. I get no codes. Filters are out of tub. And screen shows thermostats with line running up it to indicated that the heater is heating
So, my tub wouldn't heat above 87 degrees and ran constantly. Got an open wire and fire at the high limit switch, and the element measures about 13.8 ohms. I'm going to get a new high limit switch and wires. Replace the element too?
Replace the element anyway
@@VIPPoolsandSpas I did all mentioned above. Hot tub works now. Thank you!
hi would you help me with heater,i test each leg black and red got 120v each leg ,but when test black and red together got o volt.tell me what wrong here ? ohm i think ok @ 13ohm ,continuity is ok
What spa pack do you have? Are any error codes on the topside? What's the volts coming into the tub? Just test volts at the 2 leads together. If you have a 240v tub, it should be around 240v. If it's a 120v tub then you'll get 120v.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas Hi there, hope you see this. I'm having the same issue as this guy. Testing voltage across leads gets 0V but each leg to ground is 120V. It's a Balboa M7. No error codes. Tub is not heating. Continuity and Ohms are good. I noticed the tub stopped heating after the water level may have gotten too low. Thanks!
@@isaachamblin8866 replace the heater element.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas everything I've read says that if the voltage across the heater terminals is 0V then it's a problem with the circuit board. Plus the heater element has a resistance of 11 Ohm and good continuity. Thanks for the response!
@@isaachamblin8866 Ok, change the board. Doesn't matter if you have 11 ohms or you have continuity. I could get that with an element out of the hot tub. It's going to be the element or relay on one side. If testing 0 on a heater element was that simple, why don't people just say "0 volts, change the board" No need for a video. There's a few reasons why you would get 0 volts across the element. But hey, what do I know.
Hello again, I want to question something you have said in many of your videos When testing the element for 230vs on the element that is. You say that if you do not have 230vs ,change the element first. Here in Sweden, a new element costs 300 to 400 dollars. I have spoken to knowledgeable people here and they say ,by just buying a new element ,is not going to just suddenly give 230vs, It must be a circuit board issue, like a blown relay. So that is very costly and will not be the problem. Unless you know something the people here do not know ??So the question is,Why would a faulty element ,stop a current going through it ?? Does not make sense.
An element can test fine for volts, ohms and continuity but still be the issue. A hole in the element would not stop it testing good. Test amps and if it tests 0.....replace the element.
If you can get someone there like a computer repair guy or electronics guy, they can test the circuit board and tell you if it's the relay. I should do a video on testing those relays.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas I have ordered a new element to arrive on Wednesday.The guy said I can send it back if it does not work. Not hopeful, I have 230vs going into the circuit board, took the brass connections away from the element and have 230vs at the 2 bolts connecters on the board. But when reconnected ,do not have 230vs at the element. Ohms were 0.
Just following up. Did you replace the element ?
@@VIPPoolsandSpas yes was not the element. A relay as usual. These manufactures of the circuit boards,make sure it is not pull out and pop in new relays. They want to make sure the mojority of people buy a whole new board.just sent it to the uk to be repaired. All 7 relays are now replaced.
So I have a new to me hot tub and the problem I have is not heat and now no jets. My jets were working however after moving the unit to the new location I have now lost jets. I can hear the relay click and also the fuses seem to be fine but no jets. I have unplugged the plugs for the jets and moved to a spot that has power and they seem to work fine however the pole they are plugged into that would power them with the button seems to never get power in which would allow the jets to work. Any ideas? balboa es1500
Need to test all the fuses. If the pump that pushes water thru the heater tube isnt working, then you will have no heat and no water will come out the jets. The pump seems to be the issue. Test the fuses first.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas the pumps are all
Working if they get power by me plugging them into a port that is showing power. All fuses seem to test good as well.
@@jeffreygardiner5733 Test volts coming into the spa pack. Let me know what you get.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas I have 120 to each leg. Is there another way I should test?
@@jeffreygardiner5733 Send a picture of the wiring coming into the spa pack. Also a picture of the wiring into the GFI breaker. info@vippools.ca
My resistance and continuity are good at 10 Ohms but the breaker is tripping when the heater is energized. It's fine when the heater is disconnected. Is there another test to determine what is wrong with my heater that it's tripping the breaker? This is a Tiger River spa with a Laing (Watkins) 6kw heater.
replace the heater element / the whole unit.
I get 120ish volts per lead on my heater element but I get nothing if it touch them together. Bad heater or something else? So basically if I touch 1 tab and a ground I get 120v. Replaced my upper controls and then all of a sudden no heat??
Test amps
Just tested it again, both sides from the board are putting out 123v but when I touch both I get 0…..
@@clyde19770 to confirm, test the amps. If you don't have the "clamp" for testing the amps you will have to test it like this. I will be doing a video like this for a heater element soon.
ua-cam.com/video/9mu7-HOqXAY/v-deo.html
@@clyde19770 make sure to test in AC
Haven’t torn the panel back off to test the amps yet. I’m finding it weird I’m not getting 220-40v when I touch the 2 together. I’m thinking it’s a board issue…. With the heater unplugged testing the prongs on the board I don’t get 240 when I touch both. I only get the 120v per side but not combined at 240
Let me get a digital meter and test again tomorrow.
Morning, Just following up on if you tested the hot tub yet? Curious on what you found.
I'm reading 14.9 ohms and getting the beep on the heater but if it is plugged in, the GFCI Breaker pops..... with nothing else plugged into the pack? WTF?
What's the volts and amp reading on the element?
Would say it's the element anyway.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas It wont stay on long enough for it to get a reading with the heater plugged in.... the spa pack will boot up without the heater plugged in even though it shows the correct Ohms and continuity. Ordered a 5.5kw replacement heater so hopefully it will last more than a year!!
@@enkrypt3d change the heater element.
@@VIPPoolsandSpas yea parts are on order. We will see thanks