How to NOT Get Injured Climbing (NO GYM - PRO’S ROUTINE)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 чер 2024
- ⚡ AFFILIATE STORE: www.hoopersbeta.com/store
👕 Official T-shirts: teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial
SPECIAL HOOPER'S BETA OFFERS & DISCOUNTS:
➡️ 20% off Frictitious hangboard+doorway mount: frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=...
➡️ Free shipping on any Frictitious product with code "hoopers": frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=...
➡️ 20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): app.kayaclimb.com/share/affil...
➡️ $10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": tindeq.com?ref=1003
➡️ REI (buy anything to support the channel): bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️ The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
➡️ Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!
➡️ UA-cam Memberships: Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses -- bit.ly/3WVDWaY
OUR SERVICES:
⚕️INJURY & REHAB CONSULTS - JASON (virtual and in-person): www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s...
🧗 CLIMBING COACHING - DAN (virtual and in-person): danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com or testpiececlimbing.com/schedul...
🎥 VIDEO SERVICES - EMILE (videography for UA-cam, climbing videos, Instagram, etc.): email emile@hoopersbeta.com
WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
// Timestamps //
Video Overview (00:00)
Circuit 1, Exercise 1: No Moneys (00:54)
Circuit 1, Exercise 2: Plank Shoulder Taps (01:25)
Circuit 1, Exercise 3: Nordic Hamstring Curls (02:05)
Circuit 1, Exercise 4: Eccentric Finger Rolls (02:48)
Circuit 2, Exercise 1: Standing Ws (03:44)
Circuit 2, Exercise 2: Side Plank (04:25)
Circuit 2, Exercise 3: Stiff Leg RDL (04:57)
Circuit 2, Exercise 4: Reverse Curls (05:39)
Circuit 3, Exercise 1: Face Pulls (06:39)
Circuit 3, Exercise 2: Hollow Rocks (07:12)
Circuit 3, Exercise 3: Sumo Squats (08:02)
Circuit 3, Exercise 4: Recruitment Pulls (08:50)
When to Do This Routine (09:32)
Outro and Bloopers (09:53)
// Notes //
There are specific muscles in the forearms, shoulders, core, and legs that are essential for climbing, yet many climbers are unsure how to train them properly. This usually leads to one of two things: they don’t train those muscles at all, or they do train them but with improper technique. Either way, the outcome is the same: high risk of injury when climbing.
So to solve this, I’ve created one simple workout routine to teach you how to train those muscles, fortify your body from injuries, and make you a stronger, more well-rounded climber. AND, you only have to do it once a week!
This workout consists of 12 exercises broken down into 3 circuits. So let’s jump right into it, and remember: you can find all this information and more written out in the show notes on our website!
The first circuit starts with 15 repetitions of Bilateral external rotations with scap retraction. This exercise is helpful in promoting good external rotator strength and synergy with the scapular retractors. The most important tip here is to perform a good scapular retraction with each repetition, and to not rotate out too far to the side. If you find arms going too wide, simply choke up on the band and create more resistance.
The second exercise is 20 repetitions of Plank Shoulder taps. This works the core and the serratus anterior, and is also good antagonistic training. Start in a push up position and make sure your chest is pushing away from the ground, not collapsing down towards it. Feet should be slightly wider than hip width and hands narrow. Keep the core tight and tap the opposite shoulder. To make this easier, put your hands on a raised surface like a bench, counter, or wall. To make it harder, tap the thighs instead of the shoulders, add repetitions, or simply elevate your feet.
Alternate version: I know some of you are also in love with the idea of doing push ups, so, one fun variation is to perform a push up in between each shoulder tap.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/one-routine-once-a-week-climbing-training
// Disclaimer //
As always, exercises are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting new exercises.
// Attributions //
Check/X mark: www.vecteezy.com/free-vector/... Green Checkmark Vectors by Vecteezy - Спорт
I am a 51 year old climber of over 30 years. I never trained in my 20’s. From just climbing I got pretty good at climbing but by age 28 I slowly developed injuries that put me on the DL during ages 29-30 when I should have been peaking. You kids these days should thank your lucky stars to have this awesome FREE info so easily available. I wish I knew this stuff in 1996! I’m trying to climb “hard” again and I’m thankful for this info. It is definitely helping an old injury prone climber get back into shape.
Snap! I recently saw a video on UA-cam by a new climber that was about how quickly he could climb 6c. He managed to do it after something like 51 hours of climbing. But was climbing about 4 times a week pretty quickly straight out of the gate!
I wanted to peel back the layers. You’ve climbed one ‘6c’ route on an indoor route. 1. That you dogged your way up on a taught top rope. The kid was already getting tendon issues. But wisdom comes with age and sometimes you just can’t tell people. I wish I could have pointed him in the direction of this video.
Thanks #OP. A very valuable resource.
The content on this channel is consistently top tier, this channel will blow up sooner or later
Here is the Training written down:
(repeat 2-3 times) Circuit 1:
ex 1: No Money 15 reps (Shoulder rotation outwards on the height of solaplexus)
ex 2: Planck shoulder taps 20 reps
ex 3: Nordic Hamstring Curls 10 reps (leaning forward with your legs fixated)
ex 4: Eccentric finger rolls 12 reps
(repeat 2-3 times) Circuit 2:
ex 1: Standing W's 12 reps (shoulder rotation outwards face height)
ex 2: Side Planck 30 - 60 sec per side
ex 3: Stiff leg rdl 10 reps
ex 4: reverse curl 12 reps
(repeat 2-3 times) Circuit 3:
ex 1: Face pulls 10 reps (pull slightly above head)
ex 2: Hollow rocks 10+ reps
ex 3: sumo squats 10 reps
ex 4: Recruitment Pulls 5 reps per hand
MVP of the comments
🥰
You must cooperate with Magnus or Eric to more people know this chanel.
Not after hooper’s collagen video
After more than a year of doing this mostly once a week, with a few lapses, I can say that this routine is excellent and I recommend it to my climber friends. Now my shoulders don't care about awkward moves, my fingers don't hurt (I do more finger rolls than in the video), and my hips don't snap painfully. I would, however, love an update to this video for alternative exercises, because variety.
Who's the monster who disliked this video!? How could anyone dislike this?
Well the Nordics are hilarious
very grateful for such in depth and high quality videos!
So much great energy coming out of the video...
Wow guys, that was exactly what I was asking a few weeks ago. That is amazing! Thanks a lot!!
You ask, we deliver (sometimes quicker than other times ;) ) lol.
Thank you for this! So, so helpful for newbies. Looking forward to incorporating this into my week.
happy to see you back in the gym and thanks for the lesson!
Absolutely amazing content! Thanks a lot for this!! Simple and easy to follow through
Man this is amazing, wish i had gotten on this train sooner. Thank you for explaining how to keep us healthy on the wall i needed someone to break this down for me.
THE perfect training routine 💪🏻 awesome content
Just did the work out, your form on the hollow rocks was incredible. Keep it up
Just found your channel. Great work! I'll be putting some of this into my routine, hopefully I can conquer some of my weaknesses with your help!
This is engagement, algorythm make your magic. Awesome content as always, I've just tried it and it's a pretty sweet workout.
Super helpful, and a good mellow way to improve your climbing on rest days!
I've been trying to design a slightly more intense injury prevention protocol specific to *climbing on a steep basement woodie* (as that's all I do these pandemic days), mostly based on your videos. A while ago I was getting some bicep pain, and I was able to fix it with a combination of rest and your supplemental exercises. I think my issue was "bicep tendinopathy", but I'm not sure, so I tried to do some exercises for treating "climbers elbow" and "lateral epicondylalgia" as well.
My main exercises that weren't already featured in this video are:
Arm strength:
- Bicep eccentrics (thumb up, elbow down, high weight)
- Bicep eccentrics (palm up, elbow up, low weight)
- Eccentric reverse curls (thumb under bar)
- Reverse grip preacher curls
Forearm antagonists:
- Reverse wrist curls
- Reverse wrist eccentrics
- Open-hand pinch block repeaters
Miscellaneous:
- rings pushups
- wide arm pushups
- Eccentric wrist-to-fingers
- forearm flexor and extensor stretches
Any thoughts on this exercise protocol? Is it even necessary? It's possible that a lot of climbers are like me and need a protocol or steep board climbing and burley stuff. I'd love a video on this if possible!
Awesome stuff, sir! Thank you.
so good content. Keep it up guys 💪
simply amazing. could you do a follow along version of workout like this one ?
It's so nice that these exercises are so easy and practical, and also for climbing!
Glad you like them!
Found your channel while looking for info on an FDP strain… your content is exactly what I needed, I’m def building this into my routine.
Awesome! I hope it helps :) Sorry to hear of your FDP strain though!
You're a gentleman and a scholar sir thank you for this video 🤙
I do these as part of my warm-ups. Love them.
Awesome! Just I was looking for!
Great video, thanks! 😄
Commenting for the algorithm. Good routine, felt useful following along with this!
I got to this channel Radom (I think because I saw Eric video). But I must say the time was perfect (one of my fingers is still recovering after a full crimp and the videos really help me to recover). Thank you!
Thank you so much!
Amazing workout. Thanks heaps
dude where has you been since I started climbing. thanks so much for making these!!
Haha hmm probably climbing as well 😅 welcome to the channel!
Wonderfull comment for you, Dr. and camera-man 😉 thanks for all your dedication
At first, thank you guys so much for the incredible content! This routine has been amazing to me. One question tho .. with the eccentric finger rolls, should we progress with weight? Or just the olympic bar weight it's always fine?!
Eric Bana vibes here! great video and great content!
Love the training
Exactly what I was looking for, and thank you for NOT doing this with a bare chest like everyone else.
brilliant video, thanks
this is so helpful
Hi Hooper, great video! I have a question for you, do you recommend using one of this circuits as a warm up before a climbing session?
Dudes, so happy I found your channel. To the moon with you!
Welcome to the HB fam!
Love this!! Thanks so much!
You're very welcome!
Yes! So useful!
Fantastic, thanks!
Just come across this as I was looking at improving general fitness on rest days and helping maintain good technique and avoiding a heavy injury (injury prone to most things these days). Any it's great that I can do these all at home so I don't have to go anywhere. Even during a 15 minute break during work hours.
One thing I kinda miss is some preventive work against medial epicondylitis. According to Steven Low Pronator Teres work seems to be better in remedying the elbow pain (although yuor finger and hand curls are good, too). For me, indeed pronator teres was more of an issue there and high volume light intensity really did good here.
Good stuff! 😁
I've been doing a lot of face pulls for a few years now, mostly because of Jason Hooper. However, I failed to understand that I was missing the balancing antagonist exercises to work the serratus anterior and I got a winged scapula that has created some shoulder and elbow problems. So, nothing against the face pulls, I just think they need to be supplemented with scapular protraction exercises to keep those shoulders balanced out!! Lesson learned the hard way from me to you.
Interestingly I'm already essentially doing all of these things... including Nordic Curls and Face Pulls.
I'll look into finger rolls now that I'm climbing. Hollow Rocks look pretty cool, though I'm already doing hanging leg-raises (alternating to each shoulder).
Today I’m working out at home, I’ll try this and give feedback
UA-cam is being psychic again. Getting back into climbing after a slow, no gym winter makes these exercises super important. I really needed this
Glad youtube got you here!
Thx for all those exercice. Need to add also rotator cuff exercice and I Y W
I used my resistance band with a stick of pvc pipe for my finger curls to simulate the barbell since i do not have access to one.
Thank you for posting this! I do see the same problem that exists with most routines offered around the web, namely rest period. Here it's referred to as "short" rest, but what is it? Is it 15, 30, 45, 60 sec, or anything less 5 minutes? Depending on how intense you feel, you might need a little or a lot of rest, all of each can change the goal of the workout.
Do you have a more tangible recommendation?
Thanks again for this, I'm starting tomorrow! :)
i‘ll give this a try, thanks =)
thanks doc! ☺️👌🏻
As a Physiotherapist I think you have shown three excellent circuits that are quick and easy to get into. Reminds me a lot of Bruce Lee's PHA training circuits which are incredible as well. Thank you for a job well done!
Thank you for saying that and showing your support! Greatly appreciated :)
@@HoopersBeta Do you have a video on 'toe hooks', both strengthening and training?
@@patrickspencer7372 +1 for toe hook videos
Hooper is the greatest man alive
It's 10.30 in the evening. I should NOT start a training session now. But hey, if I wake up really early tomorrow I can go to the gym and do these excercises. That's a plan! Good night and thank you!
I'm on my way to do this right now....right after the bloopers of course!!!!
I don't remember if I watch these for the great advice or for the entertainment value. Either way... Thx for another great video.
Top content!!! Buying a tshirt right now!
Awesome! Thanks for the support 🙏
Hey @Hooper's Beta, awsome content, as always!! I only have one question: do you think it would be ok to do just one set of each exercise every day? In terms of total volume it is practically the same as doing it 3 sets twice a week. I found that way particularly interesting as a morning routine because it can be done in less than 20 min and i feel great afterwards.
This is a good question, I’m curious about this too. I would imagine taking 1-2 off days would still be ideal for rest. But how the benefits would stack up I’m not so sure
Doing 1 set every day is fine if you enjoy it better that way, but understand you will progress 75-80% as fast as doing 2 sets every other day. You might also consider doing 1 set a day and then 2 sets on day 6 of your week, followed by a rest day on day 7
yeah this was legit
Thanks!
Excited to start implementing this.
I have an issue where my right wrist hurts when in the plank/pushup position with my hands flat on the ground bending my wrists to a 90° angle. Is it fine to do this with fists or bent at the fingers instead? Or should I push through this slight pain and hope it just gets more flexible?
Do you have any experience with Powerball? Do you think doing some of that would make for a good general forearm strength compensation and help avoid injuries? Would you recomend any particular way to use it? Or do you consider it worthless?
I think it's a really cheap and easy device to have and a very portable one, so it can be used almost everywhere you are. One great thing also is that you can use it while you do other things like watching TV, having a video conference, or phoning people, so you dont necessarily have to manage to substract more time from your everyday life to put into your training.
I'd love to hear what are your thougths about it. Keep it up, great channel! :)
Thanks for the clear explanations and simple circuits! Unrelated question, what pants are these? They look awesome 😀
Vuori Ripstop Climber pants I believe. Ironically they rip kinda easily so not recommended for heavy outdoor use :(
awesome as always! :)
I have a question (maybe for next q&a?). what's your thought on significant hyperextension in the dip joint when climbing and training? and is training/hangboarding with avoiding the hyperextension by dropping the weight something to take into consideration? keeping in mind aspects like the risk of injury, which might be a bit higher for people with that issue and also the problem of really "loading the fingertips" when crimping and not sagging into them.
I have a few thoughts! Mostly related to full crimping. Full crimping can still be done but may need to be done with a much safer / slower progression and the amount of extension needs to be monitored. The body is amazing at adapating to whatever we throw at it, but the more hyperextension you get, the more stress you are placing on the volar plate and potentially the A4 and A5 pulleys which could put you at a higher risk of injury. When someone has significant hyperextension of the DIP I give them that advice, but understand it is case by case. Some people can full crimp without issue with moderate hyperextension. There isn't research (that I know of) that says X degrees of hyper extension = you should / should not do Y, so I don't want to be black and white on the matter. Rather, use caution, move slowly, and listen to your body.
@@HoopersBeta wow, thanks! Really grateful for your answer and so much appreciation for your work.
Thanks
This seems really solid, any one else incorporate foot mobility stuff to offset all the binding / cramping from the shoes? I’ve always thought that was a good idea
I already enjoyed this channel, but the cute faces in this video made it even better! Great circuit, very functional and useful.
Awesome video! Super comprehensive workout. I do have a question though - wouldn't an appropriate alternative for the sumo squats be another quad-focused exercise? Seeing that there are already nordic hamstring curls and single leg RDLs for hamstrings and lower back, using the romanian deadlift in place of the sumo squat seems to be redundant. I think it would be appropriate to use another quad-dominant exercise as an alternative to sumo, like front squat/back squat or even some kind of lunge. Otherwise the quads would be neglected in this routine which could lead to imbalances or just a general lack of strength in the quads themselves. Not to mention the anabolic benefit of working the quads and glutes!
I would agree with you here, would be interesting to replace the sumo squat with a "Horse stance" or some Patrick step-downs.
Great content on this Chanel! You got my abo right away!👌
In case of 2 days Training program + one day outdoor climbing (no more days possible), would you recommend doing 4-5 of these exercises as a "warm up" routine before the actual training?
By the way..your Moto "TCSR", love it! Been doing it for years now 😎
Yeah some of these can definitely be used as a warm up before climbing! Glad you love the moto! Grab one of our shirts with it blaring across the front from the store ;) lol.
@@HoopersBeta Just order it! Soon will be flying to Frankenjura! You put hard work on you vids/Chanel, happy to reward it like this👍😉
hey im trying to get back into climbing since i did surgery 1 year ago,
Do you reccomend this? i was doing a ppl split until now but now that i watch your channel im starting to rethink about my workout routine any tips?
If you started a podcast I would totally listen to it just sayin
Hi Hooper, thanks for another video. Assuming we have a bar, would it be great to do deadlift for posterior chain? Is it because of the threshold of learning the technique?
Yeah you'll notice in the vid I actually recommend doing a deadlift in place of the sumo squat if you have the equipment and experience. We will be producing a video about deadlifting soon, so we also thought it would be more appropriate to get that information out first!
Great content! Are there any risks to performing recruitment hangs? I typically err on the side of an on the wall progressive warmup & tendon glides before any hangs. The protocol would only have finger rolls prior to recruitment. Thanks!
Because recruitment pulls are progressive loads they can be quite safe. Your body will limit the force because it is not an all or nothing principle but rather a progressive load / increase. If you're straight mad it is possible to pull too hard and past your bodies natural defenses though lol.
Great 👌🏻
I'm excited to implement this. I do have a question, I have some mild shoulder pain, I watched your video on proximal bicep pain which was super helpful. Can I use this routine to strengthen while I have some pain, or do I need to wait until that is healed to do this?
Some of the exercises may be a bit challenging so if they cause you any discomfort be sure to reduce weight or change the exercise. If you have no pain with any exercise during or after it should be ok.
thx bro
If you and Jeff both recommend face pulls, I guess I have to do them...
Hi Dr Hooper, saw a PT recently with a diagnosis of a FCU strain, so any wrist flexion movements aggravate the injury. Any advice of rehabbing such an injury? Loving the channel and content you guys put up
Eccentric wrist flexion, manual therapy (instrument assisted, cupping, massage gun etc) to the area, avoiding exacerbation of the area, and stretching would be a solid foundation for a treatment plan. But, perhaps we should make a video specific to rehab of this muscle!
@@HoopersBeta would really look forward to that. its so commonly misdiagnosed with TFCC injuries.
Hello there! I have another question for you haha.It's regarding training my max pull ups. So, every time I have my chin above the bar during a pull up, and I drop down my elbows sort of pop a little bit. I have recognized that climbing has caused the inside of my elbows to be inflamed and think the pain worsens when I only do a few pull ups. Do you recommend that I strengthen a part of my arm or elbows or something before I continue training pull ups? Or do you think this is fairly normal? Lmk, thanks :-)
Sorry! This is one of those questions that would need further evaluation as there are too many possibilities.
Did you consider Dr. Stuart McGill's spine research before selecting the hollow body?
wonderful comment
What’s the difference between the standing Ws and the face pulls? They look quite similar.
Good question! It has to do with the angle of the shoulder (humerus/scapular to be more exact). For the 'W' exercise, the shoulder will be ~45-60 degrees abducted .The face pull will be 90 degrees abducted.
Wow I wish this channel had been around a decade ago. Never too late though! I'm old enough to be constantly fighting off injuries.
Welcome to the channel! Hope you are able to fight off more injuries :)
I'm 104 years old and I just started climbing. I would get occasionally an injury here and there but it's nothing that stops me from progressing. Thanks for the tips on the exercises, they shall keep in shape for the years to come!
I aspire to be as optimistic as you when I’m your age
Beautifull
Hi Hooper, I'm watching this video 3 years after release. Are you still recommending these exercises now? Or has there been any changes to your stance since. Thanks!
Great Question! We were just talking about the possibility of making an updated video to this with new recommendations and new levels! Not to imply that any of these are bad, of course, we just are believers that there will always be room to improve on... all knowledge :)
Is this something I could use as a supplemental workout after a climbing session? Or should I be doing this on an off day?
At the end he says you can do as an off day, or after a moderate climbing day.
Great routine! But what's the difference between Stading W's and Face pulls? They look like the same to me
The angle of the arm makes the difference. W's place the humerus in a lower angle, about 45-60 degrees abducted. Face pulls are meant to be done with the humerus at 90 degrees of abduction. Good question!
A wonderful comment.
I feel pain in the shoulderjoint while doing the sideplank....so I avoid ist. Why the pain and what can I do to change this? Thanks in advance!
Hey, can i use a TRX instead of a band to make these harder?
Is it necessarily bad to not do any workouts like these, and just to climb? I guess by bad I mean: how high is my risk of being injured if I only climbed and didn't do anything else? Are these kinds of workouts also important for sending higher grades or breaking plateaus?
There are many factors that climbing depends on that don't necessarily get enough stimulus while climbing to promote adaptation / strength gains. Hence, where off-the-wall training comes into play. Yes, can help prevent injuries. Yes, can help with sending higher grades / breaking plateaus. Is it terrible to not do any off-the-wall training? No. But would it benefit most if not all climbers to do some? I would argue yes.
Hey, it's me again, I can't seem to stabilize my shoulders. There is that one dyno in the gym where you have to catch with one arm only and I don't trust my shoulder to do it. That's even though weighted reverse snow angles have been a part of my routine way before I started climbing, my pullup strength is decent (10+ second one arm lockoffs) and I do some other stuff for general shoulder strength, like good old lateral raises, handstand practice and floor l sits.
Is there more specific exercises I can do, or are my biomechanics whacky or am I just too impatient (17 years old, wanna get into comp climbing)
Your 1 arm lock off strength won't correlate to catching dynos. The dyno is likely done with the shoulder extended whereas your lockoff everything is fully flexed and engaged. You may need to train more lower trap and in those extended positions.
@@HoopersBeta hm, so lots of y raises?
My climbing coach recommended you cuase I've had 3 injuries in a year
Dang sorry to hear that! Hope we are able to help at some point!
An Olympic bar IS a free weight 😂
I’m being facetious, good content and good routine
What's the difference between the Standing W's and the Face Pulls? They look very similar to me aside from the starting position of the Face Pull at head level and the Standing W at shoulder level.
The angle of the humerus changes from about 45-60 degrees abduction to 90 degrees which changes muscle activation of the scapular retractors as well as glenohumeral mechanics. A small/subtle but important factor :) great q!