Thank you Robert. Super happy to hear my video was able to help you. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment. Thank you!
Old video but was new to me today when I needed it. Also the other one for removing the wiper assembly. I replaced my plugs and wires today and your videos definitely helped. It was also handy knowing the socket sizes ahead of time and of course what to expect in general. The whole thing went smoothly. One suggestion I've picked up from others that was helpful to me is to cut the boot off an old plug wire and use that as a sort of handle when hand installing the new plugs. It helps you hang onto the new plugs, especially the ones in the back that are harder to see / reach.
Pulling the wiper motor / cowling was a great tip, easy to do. Also like the way you take the time to explain even the more basic things, such as how to release the clamps. Your a great instructor, Thank you !
@Don AD7LL - Hi Don, thank you very much for such a great compliment. You made my day! I can't tell you how much I enjoy reading a comment from someone telling me my video was able to help them. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - much appreciated!
Great video! I bought a high-mileage GC; wanted to replace old plugs and blue wires. I noticed that the ignition wires were numbered so from Javo's comments I thought that must mean 'original wires'. The plugs were in good shape at 190K Km. Then noticed the new blue wires from NGK also are numbered so now I think that previous owner had already updated. Oh well, thanks to Javo it was an easy DIY job. Someone else suggests that removing the upper intake manifold for access is easy, I wasn't convinced. I removed the wiper assy as per Javo's suggestion. Easy Peasy!
Thank you for the compliment and I'm super glad to hear my video was helpful to you. I found removing the wiper assembly isn't hard to do and opens everything up, making the job easier. Haven't come across the numbered NGK wires before, I'll have to look into that a bit more. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment. Thank you.
Great video. You're doing a service for everyone when you're this detailed! I agree about the dilectric grease that the wires come with. I always was able to only get the boots greased up with that tiny pack. Everyone needs to have a tube of it, like the one you have. On our Grand Caravan, it had the original plugs and wires at 140k. One boot had the contact break off and stay on the plug, and one plug had the connector pull straight out of the ceramic. Let me tell you, the car was happy with the new plugs and wires!
Good Evening, Javo's Garage! Again, you have made a possibly frustrating repair job enjoyable 😅! Removing the windshield wiper assembly made replacing the plugs and wires, which, I had never replaced on my Town and Country, super easy! I had never seen that side of the engine before😂! Thanks so much! Keep these amazing videos coming!!
I usually run a thread chaser down the plug holes as they will have some carbon buildup at the bottom after 100K. That can mess with your torque reading going back together. CRC products are always good. I too always use antiseize on aluminum heads but be careful about overtorquing when using it. A Q-Tip is a good tool for spreading grease inside of boots.
@Jim Beam - Wow Jim, what a great compliment! Thank you. I'm glad you like my videos. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
Tino Arreguin - Thank you for subscribing! I'm very happy to hear you like the details. I know this makes my videos a bit longer than most, but that is due to providing info that I find lacking in many how-to videos. Over the years it seemed like I would always think "but you didn't show or explain this part of the project." I'm really making an effort to explain projects completely from start to finish and your compliment means a lot to me because it means I'm heading in the right direction. Thank you for taking the time to leave me some feedback, I really appreciate it.
Not sure if there is a TSB but that motor has an issue about not using anti-seize on the plug threads as well as recommending you stay with the Champion RE14PLP5 Double Platinum original equipment.
@Paul McAllister - Interesting. I've never come across a TSB on the anti-seize. I have been involved in many conversations regarding the plugs. The best I can provide is my personal experience which has been nothing but positive with the NGK's and a little dab of anti-seize. Never a problem in 10 years and countless changes. I have tried some other types of plugs that didn't work well. Like any repair, you need to stick to the parts and processes you're comfortable with. This is my particular experience. Thanks for stopping by and providing some input, I really appreciate it!
@@javosgarage I have the same vehicle but with the 3.8 and have a P0303 that is only noticeable in gear at idle and I came across this info while I was researching because I too always use the anti-seize when changing plugs. I've changed injectors and everything else, good compression but still have the misfire.
@Paul McAllister - Hmmm, interesting problem. If it were me and I had new plugs, wires, good compression and a good injector I would be looking at the coil pack. Remotely possible an intake manifold gasket is leaking, but I seriously doubt it. Just trying to think of other causes for you. You've been eliminating all the "normal" possibilities, I would try a new coil pack and see if your code goes away.
@@javosgarage Actually that was the first part I replaced, I've tried swapping injectors then plugs then wires, now I am going thru the harness but don't see any obvious damage.
@Paul McAllister - I didn't want to use the "E" word but I almost mentioned after all those options have been exhausted then I would start looking at electrical. I HATE electrical problems! I've had misfire codes but they've always been resolved through one of the items we've listed here. I wish you the best on this one Paul. The wiring harness for your injectors and coil pack is a smaller one that runs under the upper plenum and has a plug on the RH (or passenger side) of the intake. One time I had a broken wire in there that gave me some issues, only once though. I went to the salvage yard and got a replacement. I didn't want to splice wires together and a salvage yard harness was like $35-$40. I would pull that upper plenum and take a look at your harness after all your mechanical options are exhausted. If you have a meter you could check your wires and know if you have a problem there.
i followed the steps, the only problem is for our 07 grand caravan is the left front wiper will not come out, I took the plastic piece off and the nut... i bought a puller and it wont let it come out. I got the right one out. I accidentally cracked the cowl, the part where the car takes in air and where the wiper sprayer nozzle is, do you know any replacements for it?? and how to get that wiper arm off?
I have the 2008 T&C with 3.3 and #6 has no spark I pulled the wire from the coil pack and it was dead... do I need a wire, spark plug or both or do I need a coil pack?? I did that while it was dark outside to see the spark. but boy be careful has I was doing one in the back I got a good shock haha went up to my hand to my elbow.
It will be a different procedure Steve and I'm sorry but I do not have a video out on that.... yet. I purchased an 05 T&C Limited I'm making a series of videos with and when I'm done I'll be getting an 08-10 model to start my next series. Sorry I don't have something for you now.
My spark plugs are starting to leak oil around them My vans a 2005 Dodge Grand caravan does it have spark plug tube seals in it do you have a video on how to replace them
There are no tube seals for this one Shawn, the spark plugs go directly into the head. If you have oil around the plug my experience has been that is oil leaking from the valve cover gasket down to your plug. Since this is also your exhaust area, some of it will burn off. Check you valve cover gaskets, i bet that's it. Thanks for stopping by!
@biskro - The long, flex head ratchet is a Pittsburgh Pro 3/8" from Harbor Freight. Here's a link to it: www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-flex-head-long-handle-ratchet-62333.html I have to be honest and tell you I would look into some other options. I plan to actually sell (or throw into the tool bag in my truck) this ratchet for a few reasons: 1. It doesn't have the quick release button in the head (to each his own but that's a must have for me). 2. The flex head isn't indexed and doesn't like to hold it's position. Other than that the function of the head has been fine, I like the comfort grip and the length of the handle. The other ratchet is a "thumb wheel or finger ratchet" that I got from Home Depot a long time ago. They now have a newer design that is light years better (it's now a gimbal style) but this is a specialty tool I rarely use so it hasn't been at the top of my priority tool list. Here's a link to the new design: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-drive-100-Position-Gimbal-Palm-Ratchet-H10038GRAT/206038561 Hope that helps you. Thanks for stopping by!
I remove that wiper housing anyways. They want you to make sure it's clean of leaves and trash.. Then spray some silicone on the bushings....Then grease the wiper arms in there.
@Yo Mama - I'm sorry to hear your having problems with your spark plugs. I have had a few instances myself where it was a struggle to remove some plugs on these vans. A few things come to mind: 1. Using a penetrating oil on the plugs and then allowing some time for it to do it's job should make a huge difference. Now, which oil to use is always a controversial topic because everyone has their favorite and it's always the "best". For me, I have used PB Blaster in the past with good results but the fumes can be a bit overwhelming. Surprisingly, I have had really good results with the WD40 Specialist spray version simply called "Penetrant". I've used it on some pretty bad exhaust bolts and it worked great. I was amazed! The other benefit is it doesn't have a strong chemical smell so you won't pass out from the fumes. The best thing would be to spray around the base of the plug real good a few times the night before and allow it plenty of time to do it's job. 2. If you can do it without burning yourself, a warmed up engine can also make the job easier. Heat causes the metal to expand and loosen things up a bit so you can get the plugs removed. This would be my last option because obviously you can get burned pretty easy on the back side of the motor because it can be a real challenge to access the plug. I hope this helps you a bit. Please let me know how it goes for you and if you have any other questions please feel free to ask, I'll be glad to help any way I can. Thanks for stopping by, I really appreciate it!
@@javosgarage thanks for the tips, i well give it a final push to get done in a few days and thanks for the tip to remove the wiper housing that should help ALOT!!!
@Yo Mama - You're very welcome! Taking that housing off is a game changer isn't it? It adds a little bit of time to the job but it is SOOO worth it. In the end I really believe it actually saves time because you can see what you're working on and have easy access to get to it. Please let me know how it goes for you. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
Fantastic! As a person who was forced to become 'handy' and 'know things about cars' this was a Godsend. Thank you!
Thank you Robert. Super happy to hear my video was able to help you. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment. Thank you!
Old video but was new to me today when I needed it. Also the other one for removing the wiper assembly.
I replaced my plugs and wires today and your videos definitely helped. It was also handy knowing the socket sizes ahead of time and of course what to expect in general. The whole thing went smoothly.
One suggestion I've picked up from others that was helpful to me is to cut the boot off an old plug wire and use that as a sort of handle when hand installing the new plugs. It helps you hang onto the new plugs, especially the ones in the back that are harder to see / reach.
That wiper housing trick is a saving grace. I swore last time I'd pay before doing it again because of the lack of space. Thank you and God bless you.
I found this just in time. What a detailed video that is so needed and will save hundreds of dollars by mechanics. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Pulling the wiper motor / cowling was a great tip, easy to do. Also like the way you take the time to explain even the more basic things, such as how to release the clamps. Your a great instructor, Thank you !
@Don AD7LL - Hi Don, thank you very much for such a great compliment. You made my day! I can't tell you how much I enjoy reading a comment from someone telling me my video was able to help them. Thank you for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me some feedback - much appreciated!
Easy to get the cowl off, not quite as easy to replace.
Great video! I bought a high-mileage GC; wanted to replace old plugs and blue wires. I noticed that the ignition wires were numbered so from Javo's comments I thought that must mean 'original wires'. The plugs were in good shape at 190K Km. Then noticed the new blue wires from NGK also are numbered so now I think that previous owner had already updated. Oh well, thanks to Javo it was an easy DIY job. Someone else suggests that removing the upper intake manifold for access is easy, I wasn't convinced. I removed the wiper assy as per Javo's suggestion. Easy Peasy!
Thank you for the compliment and I'm super glad to hear my video was helpful to you. I found removing the wiper assembly isn't hard to do and opens everything up, making the job easier. Haven't come across the numbered NGK wires before, I'll have to look into that a bit more. I appreciate you stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment. Thank you.
Great video. You're doing a service for everyone when you're this detailed! I agree about the dilectric grease that the wires come with. I always was able to only get the boots greased up with that tiny pack. Everyone needs to have a tube of it, like the one you have.
On our Grand Caravan, it had the original plugs and wires at 140k. One boot had the contact break off and stay on the plug, and one plug had the connector pull straight out of the ceramic. Let me tell you, the car was happy with the new plugs and wires!
@Tool In Hand - Wow, thank you very much! I really appreciate the compliment. Thanks for taking a moment to leave me some feedback.
Good Evening, Javo's Garage! Again, you have made a possibly frustrating repair job enjoyable 😅! Removing the windshield wiper assembly made replacing the plugs and wires, which, I had never replaced on my Town and Country, super easy! I had never seen that side of the engine before😂! Thanks so much! Keep these amazing videos coming!!
I usually run a thread chaser down the plug holes as they will have some carbon buildup at the bottom after 100K. That can mess with your torque reading going back together. CRC products are always good. I too always use antiseize on aluminum heads but be careful about overtorquing when using it. A Q-Tip is a good tool for spreading grease inside of boots.
Great tip!
My new favorite channel.
@Jim Beam - Wow Jim, what a great compliment! Thank you. I'm glad you like my videos. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment - much appreciated!
Thanks Javo, I just subscribed to your channel. I like your attention to detail.
Tino Arreguin - Thank you for subscribing! I'm very happy to hear you like the details. I know this makes my videos a bit longer than most, but that is due to providing info that I find lacking in many how-to videos. Over the years it seemed like I would always think "but you didn't show or explain this part of the project." I'm really making an effort to explain projects completely from start to finish and your compliment means a lot to me because it means I'm heading in the right direction. Thank you for taking the time to leave me some feedback, I really appreciate it.
Your only supposed to use the champions there is a label on the car with the number
Great video buddy thank you.great advice great pics and diagrams
Great video! I really like how knowledgeable you are.
Thank you for the video. Do you have a video explaining how to change the heater core inside the van?
Great video with good step-by-step instructions and advice along the way!
Awesome Fantastic job 👍 thank you 👍👍👍
@Frances PUAHI - Thank you Frances. I appreciate the compliment!
Not sure if there is a TSB but that motor has an issue about not using anti-seize on the plug threads as well as recommending you stay with the Champion RE14PLP5 Double Platinum original equipment.
@Paul McAllister - Interesting. I've never come across a TSB on the anti-seize. I have been involved in many conversations regarding the plugs. The best I can provide is my personal experience which has been nothing but positive with the NGK's and a little dab of anti-seize. Never a problem in 10 years and countless changes. I have tried some other types of plugs that didn't work well. Like any repair, you need to stick to the parts and processes you're comfortable with. This is my particular experience. Thanks for stopping by and providing some input, I really appreciate it!
@@javosgarage I have the same vehicle but with the 3.8 and have a P0303 that is only noticeable in gear at idle and I came across this info while I was researching because I too always use the anti-seize when changing plugs. I've changed injectors and everything else, good compression but still have the misfire.
@Paul McAllister - Hmmm, interesting problem. If it were me and I had new plugs, wires, good compression and a good injector I would be looking at the coil pack. Remotely possible an intake manifold gasket is leaking, but I seriously doubt it. Just trying to think of other causes for you. You've been eliminating all the "normal" possibilities, I would try a new coil pack and see if your code goes away.
@@javosgarage Actually that was the first part I replaced, I've tried swapping injectors then plugs then wires, now I am going thru the harness but don't see any obvious damage.
@Paul McAllister - I didn't want to use the "E" word but I almost mentioned after all those options have been exhausted then I would start looking at electrical. I HATE electrical problems! I've had misfire codes but they've always been resolved through one of the items we've listed here. I wish you the best on this one Paul. The wiring harness for your injectors and coil pack is a smaller one that runs under the upper plenum and has a plug on the RH (or passenger side) of the intake. One time I had a broken wire in there that gave me some issues, only once though. I went to the salvage yard and got a replacement. I didn't want to splice wires together and a salvage yard harness was like $35-$40. I would pull that upper plenum and take a look at your harness after all your mechanical options are exhausted. If you have a meter you could check your wires and know if you have a problem there.
It is NO contest...yes indeed, pull the wiper motor and cowling. Once it is removed, this is cake.
i followed the steps, the only problem is for our 07 grand caravan is the left front wiper will not come out, I took the plastic piece off and the nut... i bought a puller and it wont let it come out. I got the right one out. I accidentally cracked the cowl, the part where the car takes in air and where the wiper sprayer nozzle is, do you know any replacements for it?? and how to get that wiper arm off?
Thanks for the vid
I have the 2008 T&C with 3.3 and #6 has no spark I pulled the wire from the coil pack and it was dead... do I need a wire, spark plug or both or do I need a coil pack?? I did that while it was dark outside to see the spark. but boy be careful has I was doing one in the back I got a good shock haha went up to my hand to my elbow.
Thank you
You're welcome
thank very much
You're very welcome Carlos. Thanks for stopping by!
Great video man, thank you 🙌🏼💯💪🏼
Is the 2008 Town and Country cowl and wiper motor removal the same procedure? Is there a video on that removal?
It will be a different procedure Steve and I'm sorry but I do not have a video out on that.... yet. I purchased an 05 T&C Limited I'm making a series of videos with and when I'm done I'll be getting an 08-10 model to start my next series. Sorry I don't have something for you now.
Do I turn the wrench towards the driver side or passenger side? 2002 Chrysler Town and Country touring EX.
Life saver!!
Did I miss something or don't you need to gap the spark plugs?
Did I miss the part about gapping the spark plugs? I have a 2010 town and country and wondered what the gap on the plugs should be.
NGK's are pre-gapped
@@TheEastSider76 Always check them. Packages get dropped.
Thank you !!
@Don AD7LL - You're very welcome!
I'm having the hardest time get the cowl off. can't get the windshield wiper arm off
My spark plugs are starting to leak oil around them My vans a 2005 Dodge Grand caravan does it have spark plug tube seals in it do you have a video on how to replace them
There are no tube seals for this one Shawn, the spark plugs go directly into the head. If you have oil around the plug my experience has been that is oil leaking from the valve cover gasket down to your plug. Since this is also your exhaust area, some of it will burn off. Check you valve cover gaskets, i bet that's it. Thanks for stopping by!
who makes that ratchet head by itself and where did you buy it.
@biskro - The long, flex head ratchet is a Pittsburgh Pro 3/8" from Harbor Freight. Here's a link to it: www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-flex-head-long-handle-ratchet-62333.html I have to be honest and tell you I would look into some other options. I plan to actually sell (or throw into the tool bag in my truck) this ratchet for a few reasons: 1. It doesn't have the quick release button in the head (to each his own but that's a must have for me). 2. The flex head isn't indexed and doesn't like to hold it's position. Other than that the function of the head has been fine, I like the comfort grip and the length of the handle. The other ratchet is a "thumb wheel or finger ratchet" that I got from Home Depot a long time ago. They now have a newer design that is light years better (it's now a gimbal style) but this is a specialty tool I rarely use so it hasn't been at the top of my priority tool list. Here's a link to the new design: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-drive-100-Position-Gimbal-Palm-Ratchet-H10038GRAT/206038561 Hope that helps you. Thanks for stopping by!
I remove that wiper housing anyways. They want you to make sure it's clean of leaves and trash.. Then spray some silicone on the bushings....Then grease the wiper arms in there.
Javo I just did the pack coil change and spark plugs it seems to run ok, but my brake pedal got so hard, what did i do wrong, thanks.
You left a hose off somewhere
i have a 08 grand caravan 3.8l v6, the spark plugs wont come out. what do you recommend i do to get them out?
@Yo Mama - I'm sorry to hear your having problems with your spark plugs. I have had a few instances myself where it was a struggle to remove some plugs on these vans. A few things come to mind: 1. Using a penetrating oil on the plugs and then allowing some time for it to do it's job should make a huge difference. Now, which oil to use is always a controversial topic because everyone has their favorite and it's always the "best". For me, I have used PB Blaster in the past with good results but the fumes can be a bit overwhelming. Surprisingly, I have had really good results with the WD40 Specialist spray version simply called "Penetrant". I've used it on some pretty bad exhaust bolts and it worked great. I was amazed! The other benefit is it doesn't have a strong chemical smell so you won't pass out from the fumes. The best thing would be to spray around the base of the plug real good a few times the night before and allow it plenty of time to do it's job. 2. If you can do it without burning yourself, a warmed up engine can also make the job easier. Heat causes the metal to expand and loosen things up a bit so you can get the plugs removed. This would be my last option because obviously you can get burned pretty easy on the back side of the motor because it can be a real challenge to access the plug. I hope this helps you a bit. Please let me know how it goes for you and if you have any other questions please feel free to ask, I'll be glad to help any way I can. Thanks for stopping by, I really appreciate it!
@@javosgarage thanks for the tips, i well give it a final push to get done in a few days and thanks for the tip to remove the wiper housing that should help ALOT!!!
@Yo Mama - You're very welcome! Taking that housing off is a game changer isn't it? It adds a little bit of time to the job but it is SOOO worth it. In the end I really believe it actually saves time because you can see what you're working on and have easy access to get to it. Please let me know how it goes for you. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
Why’s the setting for 13 lbs for the torque
Do you need to gap the plugs?
Hi Jeffrey. These plugs came pre-gapped so all I had to do was install them.
I want to hear the engine running.
Thank you 😊
Thank you!
Thank you, sir
You're welcome Bobby. I hope you found the information useful. Thanks for stopping by and taking a moment to leave me a comment.