B18C Turbo Civic Gets SLICKS and Pulls HARD | Boosted John
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- Опубліковано 29 січ 2023
- The Full Send Turbo Civic finally gets drag slicks! I have wanted to install drag slicks on my turbo Honda Civic for years, but I have been spending most of my time replacing blown motors. Today I finally install a set of 24.5x9 13" slicks on my Honda Civic. I can't wait to see how hard this thing pulls when I get it down to Florida to do some serious drag racing.
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I made a 4 inch headlight exit velocity stack for the Turbo Civic. That video is live for members now! Click the link below to gain access!
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I like that over the past little bit you went full send on the full send civic
Someone had to 😎
Nice one i have eg6 turbo swap H2B
man, ive been here since you were sub 5k subs, super sick to see your still at it, the content is getting more and more impressive, and ive been enjoying the journey your taking us along.
I've been recommending slicks to you for longer than I can remember, glad to see you did it! It's the best way to make these cars go down the track smoothly.
SO stoked to see you John having a RENEWED Love and interest in the EG hatch (star of the show) . She’s looking SO GOOD! 👍🏻🔥🔥👍🏻🚀
The first ride height would have been safer. Take into account decel and braking at the end of the track, your front springs look really soft and the fender might make contact with the tire
Interesting point. I think I’ll be fine, but if that happens, I’ll raise the height at the track.
@@boosted_johnif that happens too bad one time it’s bad news. Just be safe brother, whichever decision you make
just finished the video, it appears what your trying to accomplish is a fuel cut by tricking the ecu into thinking you are braking on decel? if this is the case to no lift shift the cut must be with ignition. one way to accomplish this is by running the 12v signal wire from the ecu, to a 3 way toggle switch, to the center prong, then pick a direction and run a wire from another prong to the ignition coil of the dizzy, this in essence is a completed circuit as it was previous, now what you can do is run the other prong to the clutch switch, then out of the clutch switch to the ignition coil as well, so when you flip the toggle switch to the "NLS" side the circuit goes from ecu to toggle center then down to clutch switch then from clutch switch to ignition coil. this will allow you to break that circuit when you activate the clutch switch, the back feed from the clutch switch wire to the other toggle wire will run a dead end and be fine. This will all work as described on one condition.... the clutch switch works as a closed circuit when pressed "foot off the clutch" and open circuit when the switch extends.. i cant remember which direction the switch is. if its behind the arm or in front of(firewall side). if it is factory behind the arm this will not work and you will have to install a switch or modify the clutch switch to operate as the aforementioned design, otherwise the ignition will cut without the clutch pressed and operate with it depressed (opposite of that your after) there is ways around this like mounting the clutch switch on the backside of the arm but requiring it to flex with the throw of the arm after being depressed (ford brake switch operate like this for reference) or find a comparable style switch to mount in the factory hole, leaving your circuit looped in rest and open on pedal press........ i hope this all made some kind of sense... or finally you can get a strain gauge for the shifter to cut ignition when shifting. personally id go that direction but either way you do it, with a syncroed setup, your going to wear the trans out pretty quick. dogboxes arent cheap, but worth. i went from a 9.55 to 8.9 same setup jsut from a helical syncro setup to a straight cut dogbox.
do a disc brake conversion for the rear brakes next. you can take trailing arms off of an integra or del sol.
🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻keep up the hard work
I'm pretty sure you just need to use only the clutch switch and it will fix your problem.
Clutch switches are a normally closed circuit meaning a complete circuit until the switch is depressed. Brake light switches are normally open circuit so pressing the brake pedal closes the circuit and brake lights come on. Hope this helps
I’ve been waiting for you to put slicks on
I’m so glad your thumb injury was not too serious. This is a fun video. Thanks for sharing! Peace and love..Suz What ☮️💛
I was so scared to look at it lol.
Im gonna need that boosted John playlist 😂
Pretty solid idea! I could put together a few for sure!
Foreal
I've seen a lot of front wheel dragsters who put damn near bicycle tires on the rear. I may help performance because of weight, but it doesn't...seem......right.
Agreed lol. I’m not super warmed up to the skinnies either.
It does shave a few pounds but mostly it's for rolling resistance.
Seems like you'd need a relay to send a +12 signal to the switch when you press the clutch in by grounding the relay circuit. Or have the clutch switch complete the circuit for the ground of the switch when pressed and have the switch always +12 active. But not knowing the exact parts being used I cant say for sure. I assume what ever activates the rpm limiter for flat foot needs to see a +/- to activate. That would decide how you wire the pedal switch really.
actually way simpler than that. you have 2 wires off the clutch safety switch, bypass the switch by splicing the two wires together since you dont need it anyway. now you have 2 wires off the switch itself. one goes to ground, the other goes into one of hondatas switched ground inputs, and then you set the correct input to turn on flat foot shifting. anytime that input sees a ground it will trigger the flat foot shifting limiter (may have to check the box that inverts the input in hondata)
"function over form"
1.5 seconds later: " we are gonna drop it more"
awesome !! cant wait to see it rip down the track! quick question, i have a bumper exit wastegate and it keep cracking welds on me do you have a supports for the piping or how does it work??
Mine is completely unsupported. You could make a hanger from the frame though.
#BlownMotorClub
You had me really look this chief keef song😂😂😂👍
“Bitch where” “tuxedo” and “yes sir” are my favorites on that album.
Ride height can still go down a little bit if you ask me. Clutch shifting is actually the handicap compared to nlts. Running an 11 on your setup should be really easy. I'd almost bet you could run a 11.3 or so
Right on 🤘
@Boosted John launch at 6.5k slip clutch a little while loading on the ebrake. Go for a 1.6 60ft with 7psi in slicks. Will probably scare you first time. It's a rush lol
Yup, I agree, this car should run 11s no problem. That is of course after you get the preloading down. First time at the track with slicks can be a bit shocking haha, nothing like actually having some traction…it’s a whole nother animal with slicks. Good luck and have fun.
god damn, call me a ricer all you want, but I fucking love the look of these meaty drag slicks that stick out insanely wide from the front fenders
Please make a in depth video or segment about the torque mounts, i have been contemplating the mod myself and want to know what the true benefits are.
Head to and big car meet with fast cars I want to see u get some runs in against other cars but the track racing should be interesting to watch you and the Honda civic b18c race in the event u said will be coming up
So when you were rolling it thought you were shifting that's why the limiter, was working backwards, you need to get factory cruise cancel switch it goes in front of pedal and will open as soon as your pressing pedal not all the way down.
Dobry maso ano 😁 You got it! 👍😁 Great video! LY ❤️🥰
haha babi is going to love that one
Bro @7:03 you almost sound like ThatDudeInBlue 😂😂
What size slick and rim did you get? And links to where you purchased?
Maybe try grounding the switch? Its a little weird to have that switch in there in the first place. Is it to try and disable the clutch signal for the flat foot shift or something? Maybe try bypassing the switch all together?
Wass up John the 24.5/9.0 tire don’t rub or hit spindle u didn’t have to put spacers cause I’m planing on doing this tire setup but people say it hits spindles and no clearance?
test the switch with a ohm meter?
Awd and more boost👀👀
That’s the end goal for this car. We shall see when the opportunity presents itself.
Sick, she’s already a lil monster can’t wait to see how the story unfolds, best of luck and god speed broski
What the size slick and the rim?i want get something like this for my del sol look awesome💪
Hell ya brother
Yee haw 🏂
Next episode I ordered a exospeed 3 piece front end
I wish lol. Someday maybe.
Try grounding the switch and see if it works.
You need to buy a case of fluid-film and hit that beast on the underside.
That was an awesome tip on the camber arm. I need to check mine. Thanks!
That “boost cut” thing almost sounded like you were up on two-step.
What’s up mark 👍
You want the rear to be high then the front so you don’t get so much weight transfer to the rear when you launch the car
Quarts the offset on the wheels?
So why 24.5 over 23? Just curious lol. I was planning on going with the m&h 23 slicks. Similar setup. 62mm turbo lsv with LS trans. Not dynoed but should be roughly 550ish whp.
No particular reason. Just tried a set.
@@boosted_john how did they work out for ya? Too big? Any issues with snapping driveline components?
Get power from another 12v source and then let the ECU control the ground wire
How old are you John I’m 20 and dream of building my civic myself like you
What size tire are the slicks ?
24.5x9 13
Does anyone here know what the street tire setup is? As far as sizes
wide body it???
What size ate the slicks 23 8 13
24.5x9 13
@Boosted John nice you got the big boys on there make sure you preload on the launch it should definitely go 11s
22:25 John, when you said you did "nothing" to the ground does that mean you didn't ground it? Cus I feel like that's what you missed.
Yes. That is most likely what I messed up.
@@boosted_john and the A prob stand for "accessory" means the light that you said didn't light up.
Ground is just for the light in switch
plasti dip them black lol
its too cold is why it was bogging
U just put a piece of electrical tape around the solenoid.. then boom it fits.
keep that hatch forever....with that said please fix the rust
you ever plan on replacing the fender wit the fatass exhaust exit? been watching you for a min on the low i never really comment W video like always brother keep it up
I’m going to do something about it at some point, but it’s not a main priority right now.
Its time to make 4 wheel drive......
Il smoke this car
Bet
i say 10s
Lol you have ffs hooked up? Nah man just grip and rip it dude. Never had an issue. Never broke mounts etc. At 650whp
Send me your fb and I'll send you some videos lol
Send me your fb and I'll send you some videos lol
This was painful to watch. Holding tire up beside the street tire with center bores not lined up saying I have to raise it. Then lowering it back down to probably same height it was.