Mr. Fence , never seen it done like that .. You make it look easy … we do it a little differently. For a privacy fence , we set all ends and corners to grade 5ft 6inch . Hammer in a nail at 4ft 6 inch and run a string .. spot mark our holes and use a little beaver to dig the holes never taking the string down .. now how we set the roll is simply measure the string and We’re looking for the magic number between 12 and 14 . 12 boards are kissing the ground 14 off the ground by 2 inches . We simply find our lows and highs and drive a metal stake a foot off the post hole and simply wrap the string around and move up or down staying within the 12 and 14 . We simply look at the string which is Representing the top , if it looks the part then we mark our post and set to the string . We don’t spend much time with the level back and forth but making sure there Plum right to left . Dry pack the concrete and once we finish we simply run a string on top to get the post inline.. by doing it this way the fence post are already marked to frame and the fence is already floated in … just how we do it :) Benefits 2 men can do this . One can clean the holes out while the other floats the line in . 2 men laying out lumber etc. etc. Really interesting seeing how other people do It
Fascinating . Mock it up , straighten it and secure it Class approach and very professional .Mr Fence has probably forgotten more skill than some fencers ever knew.
Hey, Mr. Fence. I’m in the process of starting a fence company it may need to be a one man show for a little bit. Few questions for you: 1) is this an efficient method for me considering I’d have to run back and forth. 2) why exactly can’t you cut posts? If the post is 66 out of the ground it only needs 1/3 in right? 3) do you water in the posts at the end. Thanks from Florida God bless.
Truly curious on the opinion of efficiency of installing galvanized posts and cutting posts after complete install. Seems to be a better product with similar installation time. The only down side I could see is increased material cost but it’s basically a wash after the additional labor and OH cost to have the guys re align posts for 2-3 hours.
Hi Mr. Fence, been watching all your videos and haven't come across one that describes if you should fill with a little concrete before placing the post in the hole or not. I'm assuming you don't since you make final adjustments with the sledge hammer. Hammering a post sitting on dry concrete would just compact the concrete underneath and provide little adjustment, right?. Also, do you modify in any way the bottom of posts so that you can drive them more easily into the ground?
Gosh reading this comment reminds me of the kid puppy dog worker on his first day as a builder. While you get blokes using a dumpy level for fences String line = laser but better because it can flex, go loose, wrap around corners
This is the worst technique ever to build a wood fence. You need to set your post and pull a string line at the top cut your post to the correct heights. You cannot drive posts like this in all parts of the country.
I disagree cutting the post more than likely unless you use 10’ post is the worse thing you can do this does not meet ASTM standards for depth 30” on 6’ tall and the pressure treated chemical to protect the post decreases the further away from the end you get. By us driving post down we do not harm the post we make proper depth and we increase compaction no different than the best set post is driven all the way. There is not one disadvantage between doing it this way or half adding it and cutting the post off. If you own your hole properly then this adjustment is very minimal.
I don't ever see an issue cutting the post. That talk that the end isn't treated is just talk. I agree in the ground makes a difference but not above. But I never have seen it done like that. Set the post and add the runners. Cut posts last to height. I always plan for pickets to be off the ground, ground contact ruins a fence faster than anything. I do t understand why all these guys are in a class? Do you guys not have professional laborers there. In houston these guys building fences would blow you out of your boots. The speed and accuracy is instinct
@@tiktatttoe well I am sure you have been in the industry for a million years and have tested cutting post off, I am sure you have looked through all the warranty info for treated post and most of all you are a Certified Fence contractor or Certified Fence Professional with a thorough understanding and comprehension of the ASTM standards we have for the Fence Industry. With knowing all of that how do you suggest we meet the ASTM minimum standard for post set depth for a 6’ tall privacy fence using an 8’ post if you cut any of it off. I’ll wait for that answer before we move on any further with you other observations.
We have a different method for our strings. We mark posts with line and ground marks say its a de post and you want a height of 6ft. We would mark them at 5’2/ 6’2 down from the crest for line and ground. That extra 2in allows for the de post to show just a bit over the top of the panel. Run your string from the line mark of one corner to the mark of the other and grade the line between them as long as all your posts line marks fall on the sting all the post heights will be the same. As far as grading the line for the distance between the bottom of the panels and ground just go along the string line with your tape. With the way we mark are pickets to sit on our rails a measurement of 12in to the line are panels will be 2in off the ground. If a customer wants it on the ground you set your line 10in to the ground. Any thing under 10 you’re trenching anything higher than 12 say you have a stretch at 15 and 3/4in with our markings tells me ill have a 5 and 3/4 in gap under my panel. So you just pin the line at the low/high spot and set it to a more desirable height. Once all graded the line will mimic the top of the fence and you can see the flow of it before you even start digging holes. Different styles call for different post markings but generally the methodology of it remains the same.
Mr. Fence , never seen it done like that ..
You make it look easy … we do it a little differently. For a privacy fence , we set all ends and corners to grade 5ft 6inch . Hammer in a nail at 4ft 6 inch and run a string .. spot mark our holes and use a little beaver to dig the holes never taking the string down .. now how we set the roll is simply measure the string and
We’re looking for the magic number between 12 and 14 . 12 boards are kissing the ground 14 off the ground by 2 inches . We simply find our lows and highs and drive a metal stake a foot off the post hole and simply wrap the string around and move up or down staying within the 12 and 14 . We simply look at the string which is
Representing the top , if it looks the part then we mark our post and set to the string . We don’t spend much time with the level back and forth but making sure there Plum right to left . Dry pack the concrete and once we finish we simply run a string on top to get the post inline.. by doing it this way the fence post are already marked to frame and the fence is already floated in … just how we do it :)
Benefits 2 men can do this . One can clean the holes out while the other floats the line in .
2 men laying out lumber etc. etc.
Really interesting seeing how other people do
It
Fascinating . Mock it up , straighten it and secure it Class approach and very professional .Mr Fence has probably forgotten more skill than some fencers ever knew.
Hey, Mr. Fence. I’m in the process of starting a fence company it may need to be a one man show for a little bit. Few questions for you:
1) is this an efficient method for me considering I’d have to run back and forth.
2) why exactly can’t you cut posts? If the post is 66 out of the ground it only needs 1/3 in right?
3) do you water in the posts at the end.
Thanks from Florida God bless.
Eye all it takes and experience no need to hit none.
Truly curious on the opinion of efficiency of installing galvanized posts and cutting posts after complete install. Seems to be a better product with similar installation time. The only down side I could see is increased material cost but it’s basically a wash after the additional labor and OH cost to have the guys re align posts for 2-3 hours.
Hi Mr. Fence, been watching all your videos and haven't come across one that describes if you should fill with a little concrete before placing the post in the hole or not. I'm assuming you don't since you make final adjustments with the sledge hammer. Hammering a post sitting on dry concrete would just compact the concrete underneath and provide little adjustment, right?. Also, do you modify in any way the bottom of posts so that you can drive them more easily into the ground?
We do not add concrete to the bottom you are correct.
Do u use the thumper on metal poles
Sledge and 2x4
Maybe a laser could set the top, I don't really know.
Gosh reading this comment reminds me of the kid puppy dog worker on his first day as a builder.
While you get blokes using a dumpy level for fences
String line = laser but better because it can flex, go loose, wrap around corners
This is the worst technique ever to build a wood fence. You need to set your post and pull a string line at the top cut your post to the correct heights. You cannot drive posts like this in all parts of the country.
I disagree cutting the post more than likely unless you use 10’ post is the worse thing you can do this does not meet ASTM standards for depth 30” on 6’ tall and the pressure treated chemical to protect the post decreases the further away from the end you get. By us driving post down we do not harm the post we make proper depth and we increase compaction no different than the best set post is driven all the way. There is not one disadvantage between doing it this way or half adding it and cutting the post off. If you own your hole properly then this adjustment is very minimal.
I don't ever see an issue cutting the post. That talk that the end isn't treated is just talk. I agree in the ground makes a difference but not above. But I never have seen it done like that. Set the post and add the runners. Cut posts last to height. I always plan for pickets to be off the ground, ground contact ruins a fence faster than anything. I do t understand why all these guys are in a class? Do you guys not have professional laborers there. In houston these guys building fences would blow you out of your boots. The speed and accuracy is instinct
@@tiktatttoe well I am sure you have been in the industry for a million years and have tested cutting post off, I am sure you have looked through all the warranty info for treated post and most of all you are a Certified Fence contractor or Certified Fence Professional with a thorough understanding and comprehension of the ASTM standards we have for the Fence Industry.
With knowing all of that how do you suggest we meet the ASTM minimum standard for post set depth for a 6’ tall privacy fence using an 8’ post if you cut any of it off.
I’ll wait for that answer before we move on any further with you other observations.
We have a different method for our strings. We mark posts with line and ground marks say its a de post and you want a height of 6ft. We would mark them at 5’2/ 6’2 down from the crest for line and ground. That extra 2in allows for the de post to show just a bit over the top of the panel. Run your string from the line mark of one corner to the mark of the other and grade the line between them as long as all your posts line marks fall on the sting all the post heights will be the same. As far as grading the line for the distance between the bottom of the panels and ground just go along the string line with your tape. With the way we mark are pickets to sit on our rails a measurement of 12in to the line are panels will be 2in off the ground. If a customer wants it on the ground you set your line 10in to the ground. Any thing under 10 you’re trenching anything higher than 12 say you have a stretch at 15 and 3/4in with our markings tells me ill have a 5 and 3/4 in gap under my panel. So you just pin the line at the low/high spot and set it to a more desirable height. Once all graded the line will mimic the top of the fence and you can see the flow of it before you even start digging holes. Different styles call for different post markings but generally the methodology of it remains the same.
Are you pulling your measurements from the top? Bc otherwise I don’t see how the bottom rail could be off.