How to Nail Pickets on a Wood Fence | Running Pickets
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2021
- This is how we nail our pickets to the rails on a wood fence. We use the Straightaway by Mr. Fence tools to keep our pickets even. This is how Mr. Fence builds our fences.
You can find the Straightaway at mrfencetools.com 👈
We are Mr. Fence!
A fencing company located in Evansville, Indiana. We travel the world teaching other fencing professionals how to streamline their business while also innovating the way we build fence!
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I finally made it to the end of the rabbit hole. You sir, are the best I’ve ever seen. I finally feel 100% confident that I can do this. Thanks
Dude you move in a very productive way. You're a great example
The point you make about holding the gun up by the shoulder is so important, especially those with less experience. Great points here
This video saved my a$$. 220' 8' fence, i built a jig and knocked it out. Thank you!
I have to do 150’ in 8 foot myself. Did you use untreated or treated wood?
This was amazing to watch! I have always bought the premade panels from Home Depot. I have built my 4' fences from scratch though. I enjoyed this video and can see me doing it this way before to long. I have to purchase that guard for the top for my pickets!
Best instructional video I've f6so far on how to build a fence. Thank you!
BEAST MODE!! Nice system!!
Thank you
Thanks man. I’ve been thinking overthinking and procrastinating on this project for weeks.
Months here lol
Outstanding video!! I'm building a new fence next week and subscribing to your channel for reference.
Awesome, best ive seen
Great video a lot of good info.
Thank you
Very professional I like his work
Awesome
Just a note for myself and others regarding nail length ... 2x4's are not 2" thick, they are 1-1/2" nominal thickness (by 3-1/2" width). Here in Florida, Lowes carries a HUGE supply of "Severe Weather" pickets (the most frequently used by professionals down here). Those pickets are 5/8" thick by 6" wide by 6' length. So, if we do the math, 1-1/2" = 1=4/8" (the 2x4), plus 5/8" (the picket) = 1-9/8ths or ,more correctly, 2-1/8" total thickness of wood to nail through for picket & rail. So a 2" nail would be perfect. I have a 21 degree framing nailer, so for me, Lowe's sells a "Metabo HPT 2-in x 0.113-in 21 Degree Hot-Dipped Galvanized Ring Collated Framing Nails (1000-Per Box)" for $41.98. The "Ring" in that description means ring-shank. I'm not a pro, just a homeowner, but as Bob Vila said, measure twice, cut once. I'm trying to think this all the way through but not over-think it. I want to build it once and move on with my life.
Man i'm in Georgia, I just went through this same exercise in my head, just standing there looking at the nails, calculating the 2x4, picket, should I go screws blah blah blah for like an hour lol. I settled on the exact same nail but from Grip Rite. I have 530 pickets to put up, 115 rails, and 40 posts to put up. Got 4 boxes, now i'm deciding 2 nails or 3 nails per rail. If I go 3, I'll need another box. I went with Steel Lifetime Posts, like postmaster, $40 bucks a post lol, Contractor quoted me $10K for 250+ linear feet to do the fence. Nah i'm good, i'll do it myself, new project = new tools yipee, added a 40V Ryobi Auger, 21 degree framing nailer, new compressor and a rotary hammer drill to the collection. All that is coming a little over $6K but that's me buying tools lol.
Also I would like all the pickets to be straight.
so 2 inch galvanized nail
So 2” nails for pickets?
What size for rails 🤔
no
@@livingsimpl3
Nice now I can do my own fence 🤣🤣
This video is a thing of beauty, well done sir!!!
Please like and subscribe
😂 it goes at the shoulder guys
He's good he knows what he's doing and explains it well 👍
Ready to run through a wall coach!
I am replacing a section of fence blown down by a storm. I am keeping with the current design which has 3 rails that are 1x6 and not the traditional 2x4 rails like the remainder of my fence. This is a perimeter fence between our development and some Garden Homes. I'm looking at buying a 21 degree nail gun for the pickets, but the smallest ring shank nail I can find for it is 2" and it will slightly protrude on the backside of the rail. In previous fences I've replaced or built, I've used screws as the final securing hardware after installing the pickets with 18 GA nails (via nail gun). This time (and for the future) I want to speed up the process and use a nail gun one time and not come back with screws. Should I just buy a 30 degree nail gun instead, because I do see where there are 1.5 inch ring nails available for it?
Nice. How do you do it with pickets that are nit straigbt?
Great video very informative!
Man thanks so much .. Im so glad i googled fences.
Were ready to set the pickets now. You helped out big time brother.. All the way up here in Kentucky💙👍
I know screws take longer but would you also stagger screws or would a straight line be better?
Will that fence snake with dry pickets butted tight together when they expand in weather?
What length and type of nails do you use for the pickets?
Has anyone ever mentioned your shirts and logo looks similar to the Manchester City football shirts (soccer) here in England ?
I didn't see how u set your posts and rails so that u can run the pickets without a level. I always use a level and pickets get crooked. Whst am I doing wrong? U are a true pro
You need to use a level for the posts and rails.
good idea using the posts as a level... I drove myself insane trying to level pickets that weren't parallel to begin with...
What kind of nail gun are you using?
what type of nail are you using?
what type of nails in the PT wood?
What type of nails you using?
What nail gun are you running ?
What size nails are you using ??
What’s your favorite nail gun for pickets?
One board fence design with 5/8th pickets on 2x4 rails - max go with 2" ring shanked nails - you will have 1/8th of the rail thickness left before the nail pulls out other side.
Board on board fence design with same size picket and rail - for bottom rail 2" nails will still work.
For top pickets - 2" can be used but it will go only 3/4" in the rail which is a bit shorter.
Ideal size would be 2-1/4in or 2-1/2 in nails.
Always use hot dipped galvanized ring shanked nails.
Nail thickness - standard 6D-10D nail thickness is sufficient.
Nail head should be full round heads, don't use the ones that goes with the stick clipped nail guns that has half the nail head.
Now once you find a matching brand in your local store, use a nail gun that can drive these nails. I am a dewalt fan but unfortunately none of dewalt guns can drive shorter that 2" nails which is a bummer.
Are those treated pine pickets? I'm planning on replacing our fence but have researched and found that most installers in my area are using poor grade cedar pickets ( grade 3) or not even western red cedar. I prefer cedar but may have to settle for pressurized pine.
Do you guys use a bottom pressure treated rail to prevent picket from rotting up?
No we use pressure treated pickets
It all should be pressure treated wood it's outside.
5:47 what happened to not holding the nail gun down?
This guy reminds me of this kid in school who ate his sandwiches alone in the cafeteria, not his choice.
Still, I learned a few tips.
As long as it wasn't an olive loaf meat sandwich it's all good.
Did u make that jig u placed on top of boards
He sales them
I wonder how to get pickets that align with no gap. I check at different HD stores and no 2 pickets align and leave a gap.
That's correct, there are no perfect boards at the home improvement store so no fence made with them will be 100% perfect.
Only if you were using synthetic, non-wood boards would you be able to achieve that.
Get your wood material from an actual lumber yard rather than HD. HD wood sucks.
Plumb or level 😜
I can never find the answer to my question! How do you put pickets on the other side? I bought a house and I’m looking at the back of all my neighbors fences. Do I put 2x4s on the middle and bottom rails? I’m putting pockets on my side.
Basically you just build it inside out. If you put the rails in between the posts, just make sure the rails are flush with the posts on the side the pickets are going.
Should there be a gap between fence pickets?
No. When the pickets dry it'll form gaps naturally. Unless that's the look you're going for. I've done horizontal pickets and used a carpenters pencil as a spacer.
assuming the pickets are dry right?@@akstylez6978
I still don't understand how the pickets can be plumb if they aren't perfectly cut straight from the factory. IF all uneven from Lowes or Home Depot that would slowly push out of plumb.
What's the explanation for this?
I have a question, does each picket have a "good side, bad side, curved side" like 2x4s etc, or can you just randomly install them without looking them over ?
As far as good side bad side goes, you'd want the more appealing side facing out so it looks better from the outside. If the picket is curved, set it aside and try to use that as a ripped picket somewhere.
He does not do that in his yard - somebody else’s can be done in cheep way
The nail line on the middle and lower rails would drive me nuts lol
What's the reason behind you framing on the face of the 4x4 and not in between?
Strength
@@mrfenceacademy ok just curious I frame my fences different. I frame mine in between post. And the top rail gets nailed to to top of my 4x4. Only thing I nail to the face of the 4x4 is the rot board.
@@Gsedan04, yes it seems here in Canada all contractors put the 2x4s between the posts using galvanized brackets. Nailing to outside of post just makes for an uglier backside for your neighbors.
What do you mean 4 pickets then level then post what do you mean about the post part
Im just curious what about spacing so that wind flow doesn't blow it it over?
After the pickets dry it naturally forms gaps.
@@akstylez6978Not enough
Can someone tell me the name of the metal tool he uses up top. Thanks in advance
Straightaway it’s on his website
You can make the same thing with 1 Pickett and a 2x4 dont waste your money.
Anyone know where to get one of those strght aways? Cant find them, and im about to install a 200 ft wood fence.
Www.mrfencetools.com
you can make your own for under $50
You can make your own jig out of the 2x4 that slides along the top rail makes everything super easy
@@eddieb35 no way I never thought of that lol
@@eddieb35
versus the metal version at over $350.
It's not weight bearing and can be made out of MDF. Just what l need.
What type of Nail (for pickets) do you recommend? Also, is there a Corless/Airless Nail Gun that you recommend for shooting picket nails (if there is one)?
@jo wil I figured it out myself. I bought the Dewalt Siding Nailer at Home Depot for $339. The Nails I used are 15° Wire Weld Coil 2-3/16”x.092” Ring Shank exterior Galvanized nails. They are $85 for a box of 3000 at Home Depot
@@bobkeeler5964 did that nails came out on the other side of the 2x4?
@@gtdodgeviper if the board hes nailing too is 2" and the picket is maybe half an inch. wont go through
What about picket expansion when it rains? But I suppose that method would minimize gaps. It seems that top guide would only be useful for flat terrain rather than changes in elevation.
It will shrink first because most wood you buy is not dried then when it rains you will be fine
It would work if you go post to post. Just angle cut the bottom of your boards to maintain the one inch gap. That is if you have enough board to cut. If it was eight foot boards you could grab up all that scrap and build some shit around the yard while you’re stuck in puppy timeout outside with the sun beating down on your head like the sun decided to come down and give you a big old hug and kiss right between your ears all the way around without so much as a warm sip of beer to quench your thirst because you done pissed her off like you prolly will when you get back inside when you decide it’s time to come back in without her express permission because she got tired of looking at and smelling your ass inside. Whew….. I want a beer. Screws…nails… who cares it’s your fence build it as many times as you want. (Looking at watch…. Again) Is that a plane or a UFO?
I agree but don't you have to use a level when the pickets are warped?
Nope
no need for gap?
Hope you keep up for 10 hours 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
What type of nails are you using?
Ring shank 1-7:8 15 degree
Whats the nail gun are you using in the video and what kind of nails(size)?
Just a generic from our supplier nails are 1-7/8” ring shank galvanized the gun I think is a Max
Does the degree of the nail gun matter ? If so what degree? 21 or 30 or other
@@ME-nn9vf depends on the gun, most coil siding nailers are 15 degree. I own a Makita and Hitachi and they both use the same nails.
What sized nail for the planks
Depends how thick your pockets are and you should use ring shank nails. If you use cedar or redwood use stainless steel nails and screws NOT galvanized
I have a mg 42 nail gun it was made in Germany and is the fastest firing nail gun of WW2.
ooh I have the mg 43 nail gun...top of the line......for WW2......yeah I guess that makes a difference in the modern world....not....hmm...guess I'll go drink my Starbucks coffee and cruise the internet now...
Where can I get that picket tool
Www.mrfencetools.com
You called the jig a straightaway.. I cannot find it with that term on a search. Can anyone help?
Www.mrfencetools.com
Apparently nobody in Florida knows how to build wooden fences. No concrete slugs(just a post in the sand and a prayer), everything is screwed(no nails but sometimes "2 staples for pickets?), every picket is soppin wet with treatment and crowned like the king of France from the lumber suppliers, picket tails buried in the dirt so they rot in 2 years, unprotected/non-beveled post tops so they collect seeds and start growing weeds out of them, rarity to find any cross-bracing on gates, etc.
What size nails for pickets and rails
1-7/8"
Whst do you charge per foot for standard dog ear 6ft
Did you find out how much it costs
It's not a good idea to charge by the foot. There are to many variables from project to project.
1 project can be straight forward, and a different project of the same footage could have things like shrubs or trees that need to be removed. Or maybe there is more or less of, bigger or smaller gates. If you charge by the foot you can potentially screw yourself, the installer, out of money whether it's a loss or gain.
"Foreman fence installer" lol
Posts should be level
U mean plumb not level right ?
what’s the name of the level for the picket??
I don’t understand the question
@@mrfenceacademy i found it. the straight away
id be mad if that was my shitty looking fence.. nailed it like a roofer
☘ Irish Alien ~ Fence fix. 😇😇
I was instructed by a local fence installer to allow a small gap between each picket to let wind blow through. Is that not necessary?
Absolutely positively not true
The pickets will shrink over time and there will be a slight gap anyway.
Wood shrinks and swells with heat, cold, water and dryness. But em up against each other like this idiot did and watch all the neverending problems..not to mention no screws too.
5:39 giggity
Alriiight!
Level is across the top Plum is a up and down
I’m having a issue with going up a slope or raking pickets
Help me understand are you having an issue with the tool going up a slope
@@mrfenceacademy no wish I could send you a picture but I am having a issue with un level ground. And I can do wood fence on level ground but I’m stuck now cause I do not know how to go up the hill I am on do not know how to nail panels to support boards going up a hill and make it look correct
@@kellajones9942 are you trying to use the Straightaway?
@@mrfenceacademy I’m good on flat land but yard has a slight incline and don’t know what to do. I watch all your video but isn’t nothing on that. But one video that similar to my situation is the one you have on bias cutting chain link fence. You see the angle of that fence that the situation I am in currently how to hang panels or what methods can be use to do a wood fence like that keeping them one lich off ground and staying at height fence suppose to be.
Use the same method no different once your framework is complete your straight away will follow the top rail. Only move it from post to post and you will be fine
Plum is vertical... Level is horizontal. Carpenters wear nail bags. Don't hold your finger on the trigger you won't shoot yourself. Oh never mind I guess it's a video on how not to put up a fence.
First problem its plumb not level
GOOD VIDEO , GOOD WORK , but please tell me about expansion, wood expands and contracts so all this good work is doomed to fail , please post picture of fence recently i know i am right .
How do you make that cheater picket?
You are not supposed to have them touching and you don't nail the top then bottom and then middle. You work down til you get to the bottom. If you nail top , bottom then middle it can cause the nails to pop out when the wood shrinks and expands puts a bond on it and pressure. Same goes if you don't put a space in between them
Use ring shank nails
i agree with you, wood expands and contracts. I dont know why so many people think his method is the right one.
Why didn't he put a 1/8 gap between pickets ?
Wood is green (not dried) when you buy it therefore it will not swell it will shrink and leave a gap anyways. You don’t want a huge gap which will happen if you leave a gap at first
He's butting the pickets next to each other with no space in between. I've always heard that's a big no, no because the pickets won't have room to swell when they get soaked with rain. I guess because of the thickness of the pickets he's using, they resist warping.
The shrink after install not swell
Do you mean plumb??
this is built ass backwards so much easier to use a string and get the top looks nicer
The high low nailing at top rail isn't needed. I never had a problem. I never like the look of one nail high and the other nail low. Looks messy, but just my opinion
I agree its sloppy, I also noticed he didnt follow that same pattern for the middle and the bottom, and what is that giant metal piece of crap haha just learn how to do it right with a string line.
It's so much better if u put a 1x6 on the last 2x4 and a little piece of another 2x4 on the 4x4 to put the nails on the 1x6 to make the fence so much stronger, and damn just put a wire on the top of the 4x4 and stop using that thing jaja
7" Picket at the top. That's to much it will warp.
This method is ok for flat level land but if the land is not flat, this would never work.
And I'm here to learn how to use a nail gun...
What l don't understand is the logic of more board being held by High-Low nail pattern.
It only stands to reason that the middle rail and lower rail would follow the same nail pattern. Why are you NOT nailing those to match and to support your claim?
I will snap a line across for the high nail and another snapline for the low nail on all three rail boards and call it symmetrical. As above, so below.
Either way, the nails are not the focus of the thing, the color and straight edges are.
no logic just how fast can this fence be slapped up ...sloppy work
4:42...what these bad fence builders always do and ya can see it plain as day..running the boards you'll secure the pickets against and look at those boards attached to the 4x4 posts...only TWO inches of that board holding up all that weight and using nails..lol..vs doing what I do...the right way...using 6x6 posts and staggering the boards up and down so you can put the entire board against the post. I use a 2x6 on the top and bottom boards and a 2x4 on the middle board. Then I can screw in 5-6 screws on each post where each board attaches to it and I use fat screws to add more strength. Then the pickets get two 1 1/2" screws onto each board and never had any of my fences I've built...the right way...failed. and putting the boards butt up against each other...lord..this video shows fast lazy "it looks nice in the end" fence building...no thanks!
😂😂😂
You should make a nice video showing all this you write. I'm sure many will comment how over-the-top it is, while others will praise you for the longevity, damn the cost.
@@BlueOriginAire do not screw boards ever wood heaves and all you will accomplish is split boards
@@jored70
Plenty of "Pro" guys are screwing in the Rails, gates and other areas. Not sure why. Another Pro says only Nail.
✌🏽🥳
@@jored70if you dig your holes and set your posts correctly they won't heave.
who is he talking to? Never once looked into the camera.
He’s training other people who are there watching.
You keep a torpedo level in your pocket and you chek them every 4 pickets.He doesent tell us hes using number 1 lumber.Most dogear pickets arent milled true.You better keep an eye on your work.
We are using run of the mill box store pickets not torpedo level. Torpedo level wi just give you an inaccurate reading. Using a 6’ level (the post) gives you a better alignment. You are blending 16 very untrue pickets into one global section that is plum at the post. But you go ahead and keep on using that tool torso every 4 pickets buddy.
Then one day the light bulb will go off and you will learn that you just didn’t know what you didn’t know until you learned what you didn’t know. It’s a journey for all of us just takes some a little longer than others.
Rails are level, posts, and pickets are plumb. Shouldn’t you have a space between each picket? Wood does move, expand and contract
Wet wood shrinks
Plumb not Level
No way! that's cheating...amazing
I hate to say this but, that fence is not level, it's plumb. Vertical is plumb and horizontal is level. A 1st year carpentry apprentice even knows that.