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How to Extend your Socket Switch Screws with Extension Studs
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- Опубліковано 20 січ 2017
- In this video I show you how to extend the screws in your socket switch to reach the back box - that may have become out of reach to the standard screws that came with your socket switch because you've dry lined your wall with a thermal plasterboard.
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Now clearly the other solution in this situation would be to fit new plasterboard dry lining boxes like this goo.gl/od7Ss4, but a lot of people say that on sockets at least, with lots of rigorous flex action, the dry lining boxes can become a bit loose with time, and if you're not re-doing your electrics and want to leave the existing metal back box in place, then you've got to find longer screws.
I encountered this problem a year ago when I was refurbishing another room in the house, and the longest socket switch screws I could find were 50mm screws - that were only just long enough.
But if you're insulating with a thermal plasterboard thicker than 50mm, by the time you've added the thickness of the dry lining adhesive, your socket screws are going to be way out of reach of the back box.
So an electrician friend recently told me about socket switch screw extension studs - which allow you to add as many studs as you need, to the back box, that you can then screw into with the standard length screws that came with your socket switch.
Today's Tool Kit
- 3.5mm socket switch screw extension studs £4.95 / $6.13 for a pack of 30 geni.us/MuzZXcW (Amazon)
- slotted head/ posi drive screwdriver
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Spent hours today on a socket that the contractors somehow missed and was starting to think I'd have to somehow replace the back box. Thank you so much.
You're welcome. It's a great little mod!
These are more intended if you want to use the manufacturers screws which are a tad too short. For example black/brass/white or and other type of bb screw provided in the packaging. Ideally the enclosure should be fire rated. So in practice if the socket's or switches are extended forward fire sleeves should be installed when doing so. I would have suggested sleeves for the sockets you extended forward from the patress boxes. This is more so crucial on any new circuits.
A note for DIYrs who are happy to do electrical work, just because your confident doesn't mean you know what your doing, of course all electricians are aware of these electrical accessories. we are also aware all electrical connections must be in enclosures, you are not allowed to have any flammable materials inside enclosures. over the years I have seen many examples of DIYrs using longer screws to secure face plates where tongue and groove boards have been installed on the wall or floor, so the enclosure is no longer safe, and yes that is a fire risk. to everybody do your research, do your own jobs but please get someone who knows what they are doing when dealing with items that can kill or burn like gas and electrical. Examples; installing extra low voltage lighting in a domestic property has to be signed of as complying with building regulations, not because of electric shock but because many fires are started this way. If you have a washing machine and tumble dryer installed next to each other you can't plug them into the same double socket, well you can't use them at the same time in a double socket anyway as the sockets are only rated at 13 amps for both sockets not 13 amps each. good luck to all of you. be safe.
Fair point. I'm not confident with electrics - in fact I have a healthy fear/ respect which is why I don't do any on my channel.
Thanx for this, I nearly had a knee jerk reading the start but you do put it right. People acquire knowledge from all kind of place and this can be leading in false sense of security. I was just looking for long screws to replace a TV outlet in my kitchen but this was on a tiled area so standard screws weren't long enough to reach the bracket and my shop did not have the extra deep brackets either which was a real pain. But I wonder why longer screws aren't available.
Great and simple idea!
Absolutely brilliant, thank you!!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment. 👌
Great video am just going to order socket switch extension stud
Thanks. 👍
Cheers for that. Just what I need. 👍🏼
You're welcome Phil
Excellent, thanks.
Hi Charlie. I'd not seen these before so thanks for the video. 'Currently fitting an acoustic-insulated stud wall which will bring the 2 double sockets forward by about 75mm.
I'm yet to open up the sockets and work on the electrical aspect, but I'm thinking around what if there's not enough flex on the cables that run to the socket to allow them to come forward (which I suspect is likely).
I can't see as it'd be possible to extend each of the wires (2 X L, N, E etc) or that it is safe to do so. Is there a DIY way round this or do I just call in an electrician?
Great staff thanks
Thank you saved my bacon thick cooker wire needed 75mm in wall for conecting 👍
Brilliant!
Where can I get them here in the US?
Wish they just did longer backboxes. 47mm is barely enough if you're fitting larger conduits in them or smart devices.
Agreed. 👍
brilliant tip..thanks.
Where can I buy these in the U.S?
Not sure buddy. On-line is your best bet. eBay or Amazon maybe?
Execellent
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Such a shame in this throw away society you have to but bulk packets of everything including these extenders. I only needed 2, so ended up asking a local electrician if he had any lying about in his van, got 2 for nothing!
Can I just ask a quick question please.. do the studs not turn (screw in/out) when one screws into them when securing socket? Cheers
@@ab18i Screw the stud into the actual screw, it then becomes a solid extension to the screw...
@@stephenm5000 cheers for the response, as I’ve never used these when I saw the way the originator used them my vision was they would just turn.. I guess though if you bottom them out in the back box they wouldn’t self adjust as you screwed the socket on.
@@ab18i The secret is not to overthink them LOL They just work!
I’ve had to install MK grid switches as the original switches fitted in my house are no longer manufactured.
The issue I have is this. The plaster is ok but the grid plate keeps wanting to fall into the cavity to meet the metal box.
I’m sure I’ve seen box extensions available a few years ago but I just can’t seem to track find any.
Any ideas?
Hmm, sounds like you either need to build out the cavity with filler or wedge something/ drill a hole in a dowel and pass the screws through that to space the Grid from the back box - something like this amzn.to/3CFFD4T