Fix Old Cameras: Canon FD 1.8 Stuck Diaphragm
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Stuck aperture blades in Canon 50mm FD lens. This video shows how to disassemble the lens to access and remove oil or corrosion from the aperture blades. Aperture blades can also be flushed with Contact - camera repair - www.phototronic...
A few tools and books - www.amazon.com...
Check the position of the aperture plate assembly make sure it has not shifted a smidge counter clockwise. Also you might have to adjust the position of the aperture following cam. In order to do that adjustment the rear bayonet assemble will need to be removed and entails another set of linkage alignment issues to take note of on disassembly.
Note that there are at least two versions of the old FD lens as well as the new FD (nFD). Canon designed them simpler as the years went by, removing screws and replacing them with friction fit. But the basic design and repair technique is the same for all.
The oil that ends up sticking aperture blades migrates from the focus helical due to heat and age. The optimal choice is complete disassembly of the lens and stripping all old lubricate followed with an application of a light synthetic grease on the helical. Congratulations on the successful reassembly of your lens. Naphtha is a harsh solvent so handle with care. It can be unstable with a strong odor and is extremely flammable. It should not harm the aperture blades. Avoid getting any on the lens elements. A less smelly alternative on a stubborn set of aperture blades would be the use of an aerosol electrical grade contact cleaner. Max Professional is a good choice. It is safe on plastics and evaporates quickly. Again, Fix Old Cameras attempts to show workable, if not always perfect, techniques in which the average user can get a lens operating without complete disassembly. As technical as classic camera equipment can be there is still an art to the balance between effort and results. Thank you so very much for your support and interesting comments.
As far as I can tell the only way oil/grease can migrate to the aperture assembly/blades is through the 2 openings where the aperture control arm (release?) and the aperture positioning "tab" access the lens "barrel" ( and then it would appear to have to enter the assembly and then be "wiped" onto the blades). I assume that the same condition that caused the original occurrence can/will eventual reoccur unless the grease is removed and replaced, but from what I've seen recalibrating the focus without the correct tools would not be fun (if even possible). If you folks have a way to do that a video would be of great interest on that procedure.
Long ago in a "past life" I built a basic lightbox (wooden box, plexiglass covering the opening, lamp socket, 60watt incandescent bulb, dimmer, and aluminum foil for a reflector) and made my own resolution target for "semi calibrating" security type cctv cameras that I repaired at the time (it also made a good pizza slice warmer ;-) ).
Once the old grease on the helical threads starts breaking down it will continued to be an issue over the long haul unless completely removed and replaced. However, the migrating process is typically very slow and a good cleaning and flushing away of residual oil from the blade assembly will usually keep the problem from recurring for an extended period of time. All suggestions for videos are appreciated and considered. The multi-tasking light box was clever.
I disassembled and re-cleaned the aperture assembly in the 1.4SSC lens that had oil reappear on the blades. Let the whole assembly sit in a glass bowl full of Naptha (outside so as to avoid the fumes), dried, repeated and then set the whole assembly in a glass bowl of 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, dried, repeated and it appears to have gotten all the oil out of the inside of the assembly (I also meticulously cleaned the barrel of the lens with cotton swabs and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (something I hadn't been quite so careful about the first time around). So far that appears to have resolved the issue for now.
While I had the lens apart I decided to make an aperture opening measuring device so I could "calibrate" the aperture assembly after reinstalling it. Canon provided a chart with their SSC series maintenance manual so what I did was drew a little "diagram"/template in the free drawing program from Google called "Sketchup". I started with a 45mm diameter circle for the inside dimension of the lens "barrel" and then drew a 23mm diameter circle for the opening in the aperture assembly (If you're going to make your own in "Sketchup" remember it draws its pre drawn circles and shapes based on radius, not diameter, also all the predrawn figures measure the radius centerpoint to point, not centerpoint to flat so some tweaking is required). I then drew each fstop dimension from the Canon chart using the octagon predrawn figure (f`16 is pretty small and you probably don't need to draw it because if the rest of them are good when you're done "calibrating" then it is too). Print it to scale on your printer and then using those skills they taught you in kindergarten/1st grade of elementary school cut out a half moon section (I used card stock to print on so it holds its shape better) and then with the aperture assembly back in the lens and the mounting screw by the spring just snug drop the diagram in the barrel of the lens and check each whole fstop by rotating the manual aperture ring to each stop. On the SSC lens you can lock the aperture actuating arm in the aperture active position by sliding it past the detent. Don't forget to return it to its normal position before attaching the lens to to your camera!!
For the new FD lens you'll have make a small plastic or cardboard shim to hold the lever in the actuated position since those lens don't have the same "feature" the breechlock series lens had.
Here are the measurements (remember all measurements are diameter, in Millimeters, flat to flat on the hexagon openings) for the 50MM FD 1.4 SSC lens (I believe they're the same for the new series lens which goes to f22, but as I said you can't draw anything usable below f11 for either lens anyway): f1.4=23mm (diameter. this is a fixed dimension created by the hole in the aperture assembly) f2=16.84mm, f2.8=11.84mm, f4=8.34mm, f5.6=5.88mm, f8=4.15mm, f11=2.93mm, and f16=2.07mm. You can get the upper and lower tolerances for each stop by multiplying and dividing each dimension by .915 (at f16 the chart gives a +or- tolerance of about .19mm)
PS: If I were to go "whole hog" and disassemble the focus assembly does anyone have a recommended synthetic grease to use and a source to buy it from to relube the lens with? I didn't see anything on Mike Trost's website. I have a 50 MM 1.4 new series FD parts lens I could practice on.
PS: I forgot to mention the barrel dimensions of the lens:
Old style (breechlock) 50mm FD 1.4 SSC=45mm (diameter)
New Style (bayonet) 50mm FD 1.4 = 42mm (diameter)
From 1:20 and on, your activating the manual aperture lever by rotating the inner lens. I have done all the work I put the lens together and everything is OK BUT my lens is NOT clicking BACK ON THE CAMERA. I cannot rotate back to normal mode. In your manua here you are not telling anything about this. BUT the lens cannot work on a FD camera anymore. THATS A MAJOR PROBLEM. PLEASE HELP. I AM STUCK. NOBODY GIVES AN ANSWER ON THIS. Thanks already.
In most cases, as you did, simply trust your eye. The same holds for shutter speeds. Compare to a known good lens or camera when possible. With a little experience you will become accurate well with in any error margin. Video suggestion all always appreciated.
There is a fork linkage in the lens body that the lever on the aperture assembly plate drops into. Once it is linked, then position the screw holes of the aperture plate so that it places the aperture assemble plate so that the linkage moves freely.
I found out that the first attempt at cleaning the oil may not be the last. On the three lens (2 old FD 1.4 SSCs and one new FD 1.8) all had oil/sticky aperture blades again a couple days after cleaning and reassembly. What I found after going "crazy" and actually disassembling the aperture assembly on one of the older lens (not for the faint of heart!! they are not fun to reassemble!!) is that in addition to the oil and such on the blades the inside of the assembly also has a coat of oil/grease that is not easily removed (I had dropped the entire assemblies into a glass bowl of isopropyl alcohol and worked them vigorously and it still didn't all come out) and then that gets transferred back onto the blades. The lens with the aperture assembly I took apart has so far remained clean, so today I took apart the f1.8 new fd lens and completely disassembled the aperture assembly and cleaned all the oil out of the insides (with only 5 aperture blades it was a lot easier to put back together, couple toothpicks, tweezers and an ijs Phillips screwdriver were all the tools I needed). I have read on a couple websites that suggest Naptha as the solvent. Any comments on using it as a flush instead of the isopropyl alcohol?
Ronsonol cigaret lighter fluid, which is naphtha, is a better solvent for oil and grease residue on blades than is isopropyl IMO. Use with lotsa ventilation. Follow cleaning with carefully-directed compressed air from one of those cans sold to clean computer keyboards - to expel remaining solvent and oil from the inside of the blade pivot housing.
It would would super helpful to see the aperture fix and focus/zoom lube on an Canon FD zoom lens! Like 28-85, 70-210, 35-105, 100-300, etc.
Thank you for you suggestions. Zoom lens housings can be difficult to disassemble, but some of your suggestions might make it into future FOC videos.
Good video! Helped me fix the stuck diaphragm on my FD 50mm 1.8. I was a little confused on the part with the friction wrench but figured it out. Everything else went in fairly smoothly. Thanks for posting!!!
Sounds like your persistence and patience paid off.
I’m trying to figure it all out now.
A scribbled note or drawing, a mark, a scribe(make sure it will be hidden on reassembly), a dot of finger nail polish, even a quick photo. If not needed... no harm done. If needed... a step well worth taking.
The f1.8SC (old style breech lock lens) disassembles in the same manor as the video shows until you arrive at the aperture assembly. The aperture assembly does not come out like the new FD f1.8 lens (nor the new FD f1.4). When you remove the screws you will end up with the cover plate and 5 aperture blades lying loose in a pile and the aperture blade control plate/arm hanging from the spring attached to part of the lens barrel assembly.
If you got that far all is not lost. Carefully (I suggest tweezers) pick up each of the blades and drop them in a small bowl of 91% isopropyl alcohol and let them soak. Clean the cover plate with a cotton swab and Isopropyl alcohol.
Carefully remove the spring from the hole in the barrel assembly (you'll have to remove the breechlock assembly to access this part. Watch out for the 2 small ball bearings, springs, and the aperture signalling rod/spring!!) that is holding the blade control ring (a spring hook would be of great help here and when reinstalling the spring, they can be found on amazon or ebay, or you can probably fabricate one out of a paperclip or a small fishhook). The control plate should now come out of the lens barrel. Clean it on both sides with a swab and isopropyl alcohol. Clean the lens barrel with a swab and isopropyl alcohol to remove any oil, grease, or dirt.
From this point on don't touch any of the surfaces you cleaned with your bare fingers. Tweezers, a lightly magnetized screw driver, and tooth picks should be used to reassemble every thing past this point. If you have to touch the plate or control plate then do it by the edges.
Reassembling the aperture blades: The cover plate and the control plate both have holes in them that correspond to two little round tabs on each aperture blade. Set the control plate in the cutout on the cover plate. There is a squared notch where the control arm aligns with when you have the control plate in the correct position.
Now carefully place each aperture blade so that the two round tabs drop into the corresponding holes in the cover plate and control plate. It is best for the first 4 blades that they be in the fully open position. The 5th blade is lots of fun since the holes its tabs go in are now covered by the first blade you installed, Move the control arm so that the 4 blades start to close. Ever so carefully place the last blade's tab end under the first blade while at the same time leaving the rest of the blade on top of the 4th blade you installed. If at first you don't succeed...try, try, try....again.
When you have all 5 blades in place and working properly now move the control arm until the aperture is completely closed. Now you need something round and tall enough to set that completed assembly on so you can lower the lens onto it (I used an old prescription bottle). Carefully lower the lens barrel down on the aperture blades trying to align the screw holes looking through the back of the lens barrel (this may take a couple tries, once again" if at first you don't...."). When you have the assembly back in place, while holding pressure on the assembly via what ever you set it on, flip the lens over. The aperture assembly should be back in place and you can reinstall the three screws. As far as I can tell various alignment tabs force the plate back into its proper location and there is no need to try and calibrate the aperture mechanism (though scribe marks always help. mark everything as you take it apart).
Reattach the spring to the hole it attaches to (a drop of some clear enamel or loctite will help make sure the spring stays were it belongs). Once again a spring hook will come in handy trying to reattach the spring.
Reassemble the lens and you should now have unstuck aperture blades (until more oil leaks in and you get to do it all over (unless you're really brave and take the focus coils apart and re-lube them with a good synthetic grease that won't break down).
This is a detailed and workable description of how the aperture blades could be accessed and cleaned in the Canon f1.8 SC (old style breech lock lens). A word of note: a small vacuum table helps in keeping the blades in place as they are laid into position, however as you have demonstrated it is not essential. Nice Job. Watch for an upcoming Fix Old Cameras video on the the Canon FD f1.4 SSC (old style breech lock lens).
this is the holy grale of what i've been looking for.
THANK YOU SO MUCH I WOULDN'T BE ABLE TO FIX THE SAME LENS I HAD WITHOUT THIS VIDEO. However I noticed aperture was not correct from f/11 to f/22 the diaphragm opening is so small looks like f/32 or something instead. Maybe I did something with aperture linkages.... every f stop before f/11 is fine and working on mine.
Thank you for your help in getting my aperture unstuck. It now works smoothly. My friend at the camera store told me that my F-stop openings were not accurate. For example my F-22 setting should close the aperture to 2.27 mm but it actually closes to about 1 mm. Is there a way to re-calibrate the F-stop settings on my Canon FD 50mm 1 : 1.8 Lens? Thank you.
I know its been 2 years but I have the same problem. Did you find a fix for it?
@@thom8734 Hi Thom, No I did not find a fix for this problem. I ended up giving the camera away. It always took good photos so I perhaps naively assumed it wasn't a serious problem.
Such a helpful vid! Many a lens to be saved!
Thank you for the very informative video~!!! You solved all my problems, Excellent~!!!
Very good to hear of your success.
Dang, I feel so stupid. I have thrown out lenses with a dinged aperture ring, never imagining it was a modular part. Thank you!
For a "project" I bought an old "as-is" Canon FTB(QL) camera w/ 50mm FD f1.8SC lens (breechlock version) for $15.00 +shipping on ebay. The lens is suffering from the stuck/oily aperture "syndrome". The first thing I noticed as I commenced dis-assembly was this lens had a little lever on the breech assembly for the locking the aperture control lever (on the other breechlock lens I have, to lock the lever you just push it all the way counter clockwise until it falls into an internal detent which locks it). The other difference between this and the f1.8 I described in my previous post is this lens has a 6 blade aperture assembly instead of 5 blades. I assume the 5 blade lens are the last of the breechlock lens before Canon came out with the bayonet style FD series (because the f1.8 in that series also has a 5 blade aperture).
A problem I ran into with this lens is that the front lens element does not want to come out of the lens barrel. As far as I can tell the only thing meant to hold it in place is the nameplate ring, but after removing it and the filter ring it will not budge. Does anyone know if the front lens assembly might have been glued in place? Could it just be stuck from some of the oil/grease seeping from the focus coils? What's the best bet to get it to break lose (without breaking it)?
Maybe some alcohol might be carefully seeped around the ring to loosen. Make sure that it does end up between the lens elements.
Please could you upload a video showing how to repair the mount of this lens. I'll appreciate a lot. thank you for your time.
+virgilio santiago Thank you for the suggestion. Lens mount issues would be a good subject for some videos.
You are a legend. Thank you so much.
thank you it was verey great and helpful video
I’ve heard that lighter fluid (Butane) can also be used to clean and degrease aperture blades (as it also evaporates at room temperature).
Any thoughts on using this over 99.99% Isopropyl Alcohol?
Thanks so much
Anything different to expect on a 50 1.4 SSC and 50 1.4 FDn ?
Yes, they are each different. A little more difficult. Watch for an upcoming video in the next couple of months on the 50 1.4 SSC.
A Canon service video I have recommends adding a scribe mark between the aperture assembly and the lens body before removing the screws that hold the assembly in. Is that a good idea with this method or not needed?
I bought a Canon FD 50mm 1.8 lens to play with and I can definitely confirm you need to mark the aperture assemblies position in the lens before removing it. I marked the assembly before removing it in the 1.8 lens and when I reinstalled it I didn't quite get it back to where it belonged and between f22 and f11 the aperture didn't change. Took the lens back apart and was very careful to put it back on the "marks" and now the aperture opens/closes to a different size on each stop. Maybe an add on video for this repair could be how to verify/calibrate the aperture openings?
I have a 50mm 1.8 SC (breech lock) with stuck blades and fungus - should I follow the procedure for the 50mm 1.4 or this one?
Excellent series of videos.
The FOC video on the Canon 50mm 1.4 could be helpful for your lens in that the breech lock bayonet mount disassembly and reassembly is similar for all lens that have the breech mount lock ring.
Many thanks for the advice! Confirmed by hypothesis, will let you know how I get on with it!
Hello, I've followed all the steps but when I put the aperture back in, it won't revert to wide open aperture until I wind the film advance lever. All the other 1.8s I have stop down then immediately revert to wide open when the shutter closes. Am I missing a linkage?
Figured it out, linkage on the replacement aperture I was dropping in was bent!
Thanks for the helpful videos.
Probably want to recheck your work as to the linkages positioning.
Excellent to hear you discovered the problem.
My FD 80-200mm FDL lens is stuck on f4 is there a reason why? Can I unstick it without taking it apart?
Thank you!
Hi I have a canon 70-210 analog lens and the aperture is not working when I bring my camera to the mechanic he said I could not fix it because I can’t opening front of the lens how could i open
the red dots no loner line up. how do i fix this? did you miss a step? the ONLY thing I didn't redo was aligning the red dots. HELP ME!!
With the back of the Canon FD 50mm 1:1.8 lens facing you, press the square silver button (the same button you would press to release the lens from the camera) and simply rotate the inner red dot counter clockwise until the alignment snaps into place with the outer red dot.
Hi,
I was wondering where do you get the 'lens friction wrench'? I have been using just the end lens caps with some tape, but it leaves too much glue residue. Many thanks for your videos.
Various jar lids of the appropriate size can be repurposed into a friction wrench, particularly effective if used in conjunction with mouse pad backing or dental dam. Rubber stoppers, available at hardware stores, can also be used. PVC pipe end caps used in conjunction with o-rings work well also. Your imagination might come up with some other ideas that will work for you. Please feel free to post such ideas. If you would still like to purchase some, search "lens friction wrench" and you will find several suppliers of conveniently sized friction wrenches. However other than the convenient sizing DIY friction wrenches usually work just as effectively.
I have the same exact lens but my lens isn't budging like in 1:01, Does anyone know a solution? my focus is stuck and the plan is to get rid and replace the old grease.
I have canon 50mm FD lens. I have different from one in the video, but the name is the same. taking out the screws 1:39 all 5 blades fell out. they where not holding into one part as showed at 1:48. have no understanding at all about lenses. will check for more info. thank you :)
Although loose aperture blades are not something you want to have to deal with as they can be tedious to reinstall, it is doable. Note that the last blade installed will tuck under the first blade installed.
Hi, I purchased an FD 200mm f4, and I just noticed that the diaphragm won't close more than a half stop past 5.6. There is no visible oil or dirt on the blades, but there is a little drop of grease near one of the three internal screws halting the diaphragm. If I act on the lever, the diaphragm can be closed without noticeable friction (the lens is mounted on a novoflex adapter), then I can open it acting on the aperture ring, but then again it closes only till 5.6 and a half stop. The vendor has offered either a full refund or a repair (with no additional cost whatsoever): what would you advise? The refund ist the easiest way, but then it could happen again with another used copy of the same lens. Maybe it is better to send it back and have it serviced, or is it an issue which does repeat itself periodically even after service?
Do you know how to remove damaged screws?
Try applying heat from the tip of a solder iron to the head of the screw for at least two to three minutes. Be mindful of any plastic parts on the camera so as to to melt them with the iron. If the head is complete destroyed you might be able to remove the head competely with a pencil tip grinder or file, then once the plate or part is removed there might be enough of the thread shaft showing that you can grab it and twist it out with a needle vise or pliers. Finally, as a last resort, it can be drilled out. At that point you will probably have to use an oversized screw to reattach.
This is great thank you.
Folks, I need to get into an older style FD, I am gathering tools such as those you recommend in other post. Where does one get the large rubber stoppers and silicone mat?
Go to miketrost.com/tools.html for a link to Lens Ring Tools under the Basic Lens Repair Tools. You can also use the neoprene backing from old mouse pads for a friction mat. Salvaged jar lids such as the deep plastic type found on spice jars can be used in conjunction with the friction mat.
I got this problem with a FD 35-105mm 3.5 zoom. Do you think the process wont be much different for a total rookie?
Thanks!
The process is similar, but more steps are involved. Since you mentioned that you are new to attempting such an undertaking, you might want to wait for a Fix Old Cameras video on your lens, or a similar lens. However, it could be sometime as the request list is long. Thank you for your interest and patience.
Fix Old Cameras Looks like it will better for me to try buy another and then when the video comes up try to fix it and sell it back then.
Thanks
thanks for the video, may I ask what size is the screwdriver?
The 2.5mm JIS cross point is typical of most classic cameras manufactured in Japan between the 60's and 80's.
do you have a video on how to make the lens ability to focus more smoothly I have a lens that will barely budge to focus
Barring any mechanical issues with the focus threads, the grease that lubricates the focus helical is probably causing the stiffness. The old grease needs to be removed from the threads and a light synthetic grease applied in its place. For the inexperience it is not advisable to completely separate the focus threads. Try to work the cleaning solvent into the threads by turning them through the range after seeping cleaning into the threads. Completely separating the threads invites a day of frustration trying to achieve the proper timing. If you decide to separate the threads count the number of revolutions after infinity scribe mark until they separate as a way of orientation. A FOC video of this procedure will at some time hopefully be produced.
thank you
i dont know if this will get replied to, but in my instance my lens doesnt have oil just the blades sometimes completely refuse to work. like ill install the lens one time and it will stop down and work fine. then i swap a lens and swap back to the 50 and the blades do not work at all. when it does run its clear they arnt oily or have any defects i can make out
Oil on the blades is not always visible as it can be isolated around the pivot points. If the blades do end up being oil free, then the stop down mechanism and linkage will have to be checked for a malfunction or misalignment. Another lens identical to the one you have in working order might help has a point of reference for you.
So could the spanner wrench be a substitute to the friction mat?
The friction mat is for retaining rings that do not have slots or holes to receive the tips of the spanner wrench.
Thank you. I ordered a spanner wrench for my 50mm 1.4 SSC FD lens. I was cleaning it and moisture got inside somehow.
Do you have any tips for removing the he nameplate?
I have got it loose with isopropyl alcohol, however it keeps spinning and won't progress on the thread meaning it won't come lose.
The one you have is not threaded, it was just glued in. Pry and lift with the corner of a credit card or your thumb nail.
I use a plastic "tool" which i used in the past to remove screens from iphones
I haven gotten my lens up and running except my aperture setting seem to be reversed or backwards. Any suggestions on how to correct this?
Check the position of the aperture blade assembly stop down lever as it is related to the diaphragm linkage.
the aperture blades now function but i cannot put the lens back on to the camera. what gives??
At 1:02 you say invert the lens to allow the front group to fall out, this doesn't happen. second lens ive tried with and hasnt come out either time, suggestions?
Could be stuck because of gunk. Try seeping some isopropyl alcohol around the lens group where it seats into the main housing. Twist it a lightly to break it free. Invert and give a shake or tap and see if the stubborn group will then fall out. Don't forget to be prepared to catch it if it should come loose.
works but as soon as I mount on camera aperture goes back to square one and stays wide open, I use stop down lever and bulb setting to confirm that it wont shoot at anything besides 1.8 no matter what it is set to, any suggestions
but when i take off lens it works , i have tested another 50mm fd with this camera and it works and stops down fine, not sure what could be issue
You will have to recheck your work as you have not set up the linkage properly or the linkage connection is broken.
Is this lens similar to the same FDn 50mm f1.2? I have that same problem.
+alejandra villa
They are different.
Does anyone know how to get to the aperture assembly on the 50 f3.5 Macro FD. I can’t figure out how to disassemble from the front. Thanks!
Thank you for your comment. Possibly at some point in the distance future a FOC video can be produced for your lens. A quick overview... the lens mount bayonet will need to be removed. The front name plate and the plastic cone beneath the name plate will need to be removed. At that point you might be able to discern how to remove the element groups and then the aperture plate with either a spanner or screws as needed.
Fix Old Cameras thanks for the reply. Unfortunately this particular lens doesn’t have notches for a spanner tool and there is no name plate on the front behind the filter threads either. Seems unique to the FD line
Fix Old Cameras I was able to remove the mount and saw the notches for a spanner tool to remove the small rear element but it seemed like you need to be coming from the front in order to remove the aperture blades as it was right beneath that element if that makes sense
The older version Canon Macro Lens FD 50mm f/3.5 S.S.C. has a name plate ring as described. You have the last version with only a front lens cone and no name plate ring. The front lens cone will need to be removed (might be a tiny set screw located on the lens barrel.
Hi and thanks for the video. Could you tell me if the disassembly procedure for cleaning oily aperture blades on a Canon 58 1.2 FL lens is similar? Thanks!
It is similar, but there are some differences that make the disassembly to get to the blades a little more challenging.
Ok, thanks. Any chance you could be more specific? And, do you think it would it be easy enough to work through these differences based on this video (for someone without a lot of lens repair experience)?
Outlining detailed repair descriptions in the comments is unfortunately not practical. At some point a Fix Old Camera Video might be produced on your lens. That is a very nice lens and somewhat rare. Only you know your abilities and experience. If you do attempt the repair go slow and do not force anything. Try and let the lens show you what to do.
Ok, I understand. I would be interested in seeing a video on that lens. Thanks..
Can not tell you when or if such a video might be produced, but it has been noted. Thank you for your patience.
Does the lens need to be set to infinity before disassembly?
As long as you do not attempt to disassembly the lens focus helical thread assembly, it does not matter where the focus is at. It will not be an issue.
Fix Old Cameras ok cool
I followed the directions to repair my 28mm 2.8 fd and completed all the steps, but now the lens wont mount on my AE1. How do I spin the breech lock back into place so it can properly mount?
+James McShane You might need to check your linkage under the plate to make sure it is linked properly so it allows the breech lock to spin.
I'm having the same problem but I don't understand what you mean by linkage. Which part are you talking about?
Hold the release button in that you would normally press to release the lens from the body of the camera and spin the part you rotated clockwise, counterclockwise. You might have to use a small screwdriver in the lever channel to hold, and spin the lock back to home position You do not need to worry about depressing the breech locks for this.
i have a canon fd 1:1.8 S.C and my aperture blades are stuck.. i open them from the front like you.. but mine are loose.. so i had to fiddle them inside again.. it took me 3 hours... and the aperture is still not working.. do i have to repair it from the camera side?
i tried to open those screws.. 1 is open but the other 2 are very stuck... do you hav e tips for those hard screws too?
Sorry for my bad english..
It could be that the linkage from the aperture stop down lever (on lens mount end of lens) did not properly link with the aperture plate.
how can i check this?
You will probably have to further disassemble.
can this repair be preformed on various canon fd lenses??
Yes, but the disassembly procedure will vary from lens to lens.
Yes.
Hi,
Whats the name of the tool that you remove the front ring of the lens?
Spanner Wrench. You will find some suggestion as to where to obtain some on this page. - miketrost.com/tools.html
I have this lens,,,the name ring will not fall out,,,it only spins,,,HELP
yeah alright 2:25 aaaaand cut and everything is different
How do you reegnage the breech lock?
Have same problem!!! Pls help me ✌️✌️
Hi
Does this tutorial applies for the Canon FD 50mm SSC f/1.4 with the silver breech lock to ?
It is different and will eventually be covered in a Fix Old Cameras video tutorial.
Fix Old Cameras
Eagerly awaiting that video. Just bought a 1.4ssc lens for parts to fix my old lens, and except for stuck aperture blades, the lens I just received appears to be in better shape than my old lens.
Having just removed the name plate and filter ring on one of my stuck/sticky aperture old style FD lens, it looks like the "fun part" of accessing the aperture assembly will be removing the front lens group, which appears to be screwed into place. Will a standard spanner wrench work, or will something custom have to be made to unscrew that assembly?
sewing1243
Definitely need a lens spanner wrench to remove the front element (it unscrews counter clockwise), don't know if it makes that big a difference, but I marked its position before unscrewing it because, at least on the lens I worked on, the element can be screwed in a little past the marks upon reassembly..
Does this also work with the s.c. version ? My A is stuck and i want to fix that.
If the A button is stuck it would be a different or additional issue.
Hmzs okay thanks!
Hi Mike & Followers, Please see the comment I left on the related, "FOC:" Canon 50mm 1.4 FD Stuck Diaphragm video. Thanks Tom
my front group won't fall out, what should i do? HELP PLEASE
that part of the lens looks a bit different
Gentle tap the housing with lens suspended a few inches above a folded towel so when it does fall free it as a soft spot to land.
I have Canon FD 50mm 1:1.8 S.C. and its aperture blade "disc" doesn't look like that.
Canon manufactured well over a hundred different FD lenses in their twenty plus year production. At times they would make changes in design. The S.C. and the S.C.C. on the FD lenses stands for Spectra Coating and Super Spectra Coating.
Really difficult. Anyone interested in helping me out?
I only found out that my aperture ring was stuck after I finished an entire roll... Now I'm sad af waiting for the film to get processed for a school assignment :'(
Now that you know there is an issue you can repair or compensate when selecting you exposure.
Fix Old Cameras all I had to do was to wipe off 30 years of grease stuck inside the aperture ring :)
Right on.
I have this lens,,the name ring will not fall out it spins,but, I cannot get a grasp to lift it out
You have loosen the glue, lift it out with a gentle prying action.
It may be a bit late to answer now but I post it here just in case other people want to remove the ring and can't find a way. Ideally, buy a rubber stopper of the right size and you can get it done easily. However, if you don't want to waste time going out to look for a stopper and you found that double sided tape won't work, here's the trick.
I used a pills bottle of the right size and added a few drops of hot glue at the rim of the bottle and allow it to cool down. The glue will grip the name ring and a few turn will allow the ring to come off.
Sorry, I was wrong about my suggestion above. It applies to the 50 1.4 SSC version. This one is a clip type and not screw type. I suggest a guitar pick to ply it off.
Thank you for your interest in FOC and for the nice repair tip.
Right on.
Well...I watched this 5 minutes after spending $40 on a new 1.8.
Thank you for taking the time to watch an FOC video, your interest is appreciated.
ashtonal_ lampoon was about to drop 60$ on a new lens at my nearest shop! Came home and was done in less than 1 hour !
io