Literally the most concise and easy to follow tutorial about infrared photography. No BS, no random photography talk, just clear and concise. Thanks man
A quick note for Fujifilm shooters (not sure of this feature in other brands): You can set your display to show an electronic depth of field scale when using native lenses. Only just starting playing with infrared myself, but it's an invaluable tool for long exposure photography. Down side being not a lot of the Fujifilm lenses are great for infrared...
WOW.........Rob by far the best video on processing,I would like a lettle more on your first conversion (simpler) Your voice should be on radio, great work thanks
Thanks! Here are some other videos on monochrome conversions. Infrared Spiral Aloe photo edit with Lightroom on iPad: ua-cam.com/video/vupMbMRb4ms/v-deo.html Editing Infrared photo with to B&W Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro: ua-cam.com/video/_qrEB9U-SG8/v-deo.html Editing Infrared to B&W with Lightroom: ua-cam.com/video/eV6ALBeDtY8/v-deo.html
A Full Spectrum conversion allows you to shoot IR without a tripod. I have converted over 200 cameras. The only downside is that you must use a filter.
Very grateful you created this tutorial. I have followed this channel after scouring the internet for tutorials on IR photography using filters since in Trinidad and Tobago (West Indies) I know no one who repairs, far less, modifies digital cameras. Thanks very much for this great tutorial!!!
Loved this, watched it a few times. What I do not understand is how everyone's tree images are white when the open to post process but mine never are. I have followed every step by step process, custom white balance, channel swaps, etc. Have Canon 5d Mark IV and 720 IR filter. Thanks for your informative video, very easy to follow. I am just not having luck getting any white trees.
Your results will vary depending on your camera's sensor and the specific model of filter used. Getting a small amount of color in the foliage is normal. You can make it white in Photoshop with a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, by reducing the saturation for that specific color channel to 0. In Lightroom, you can use HSL to reduce the saturation for a specific color. I've had a couple questions about this topic, so I will address in an upcoming video.
@@robshea Thanks for the comments and looking forward to yoru next videos. This was a great "start to finish" and I feel like I have tried everything, including those you mentioned. I used an Ice Optical Glass IR 760, great reviews but maybe its the filter. Ill keep trying. Thanks again!
@@debbiecrowe4733 The results could also look different on a converted camera compared to an unconverted camera. With an unconverted camera, you will get more color passing through due to the longer exposures. The foliage will be less saturated with a converted camera.
Trouble with colour IR is that the magenta also affects the subject and the sky. With the subject, you can use the motive mask in LR and reduce the saturation but the sky is really difficult. Linear mask and then cool the white balance + reduce haze is the best I can do to eliminate it. Thanks for the great videos by the way: my Surface Pro 8 was getting pretty hot switching between LR and PS.
I'm puzzled. Don't all unmodified cameras include an IR-cut filter that blocks IR wavelengths from reaching the sensor? How can the addition of an IR-pass filter over the lens allow IR wavelengths to reach the sensor in an unmodified camera? I thought the only way to be able to use IR filters over the lens was to modify the camera for full spectrum???
Yes, unmodified cameras contain a hot mirror filter that blocks most, but not all, IR light. For example, let's say that the hot mirror filter in your camera blocks about 8-stops of infrared light and allows all visible light to pass. The blocking of IR is enough to allow the visible light to dominate the images. If you add an R72 filter that blocks 12 stops of visible light, now you are getting 4-stops more IR light than visible light. Thus, you can capture IR with an unmodified camera. Of course, you are going to have very long exposures as a result, somewhere around 5-30 seconds. You will want to use a high-quality IR filter for this, as low-quality filters will allow too much visible light to pass.
I’ve never shot infrared and didn’t even know that you could with just a filter. I thought you needed to modify the sensor. With that said, and I could be wrong, but I believe there’s a much faster workflow to deal with the temperature slider bottoming out, which I saw in another infrared tutorial. They sent the file to photoshop and in filters used “convert to raw,” at which point they had a temperature slider that was at the midpoint so you could pull that back to the left to cool it down. That might save you from doing a lot of what’s shown here.
A converted camera, which removes the internal hot mirror from a camera, is not required to shoot infrared photography. It will provide more flexibility of styles and exposure times, but it is not required. You can shoot infrared photography with any mirrorless or DSLR camera. The alternative workflow that you referenced is actually slower, as it requires you to white balance the image twice. That workflow will grow tedious when editing many infrared images.
You can purchase here: www.robsheaphotography.com/lightroom-infrared-color-swap-profiles/ Here are instructions to roll your own: www.robsheaphotography.com/2020/06/29/lightroom-lut.html
@@robshea thanks! i just saw you cant import .cube LUT files into Lightroom ( non classic ) I just downloaded your free color swap LUTs but struggle to get them into LR :(
amazing to listen / watch and I matched your moves to get it ok. However - it didnt workjust like you demonstrated? This IS my first IR try. Having used the Hoya IR72 and resulted in a red immage. DNJ etc. Developed my profile and found it in Lrcc. But here on in the changes you demonstrated just didnt happen. I have Macbook pro M1 and Nikn Z7 II. any idease would be welcome..... I have subscribed and Liked - I am hooked....
Filter is good. You might try the Infrared Profile Pack, just to be sure it is not a profile issue. You can download them here: 590.red/infrared-profile-pack
Just rewatched your video ~ hmmm, my 1st shot was in complete manual instead of auto or EP ‼️ and I cable released for about 20 seconds ...... time to redo and then see result; waiting now on weather 🌧️
To add more shadow detail, can you exposure bracket then fuse the images into one that contains brighter shadows before proceeding to the rest of the post-processing procedures?
You certainly can exposure bracket and use HDR techniques to merge images. I've tested this extensively with IR, but I've general found it not as helpful as it is with visible light images. Most of the time, a single not over-exposed image produces the results and the shadow detail I'm looking for. The only cases where I actually merge the images, instead of selecting a single image among the brackets, are cases were there is an extreme difference in exposure, such as dark shadows and while pointing towards to the sun. Here is an HDR example: instagram.com/p/CVsbDcnF4eb/
If you are shooting in raw, it doesn't matter what WB you set, since you will have full control of the white balance while editing. If your image is difficult to see on the camera screen, setting a custom while balance on grass or a neutral gray subject may make it easier to frame your subject.
Cls light pollution filters are pretty cool in the daytime. They turn sodium yellow flowers an orange red and the photo has an over all Teal aqua look.
I'm aiming to convert my Nikon Coolpix P1000 to Full Spectrum and use my Hoya 720NM with it as it is too expensive to buy a Full Frame Camera and convert it to Full Spectrum and add to the hassle to get the proper Zoom Lens as I intend to shoot the Skies which means to Manual Focus or Auto Focus at Infinity ... I chose the P1000 as it shoots RAW as a Ring Focuser for Manual Focusing and is 4K also plus have more features than other Point and Shoot , not to forget its amazing Optical Zooming of 125x... I'm using it for Research of Unexplained Aerial Phenomena ... your Opinion is valuable , please
The main challenge with any all-in-one system for infrared is ensuring that the lens does not produce hot spots. A quick search shows that at least two companies who do full spectrum camera conversion support the P1000. This suggests that the lens works well in infrared. Looks like a solid choice.
Hi Rob I’m trying a Hoya r72 on my Sony unconverted a6400 the lcd screen is too dark almost black how can I tell what I’m shooting? I put the filter on I can’t manually focus because the screen is too dark. Is there a way to brighten the lcd to see?
Does the a6400 have a "preview exposure" setting? If so, try turning that on/off to see if that helps. Under usual circumstances; off would give you an image of what the camera "sees" in real time, on would tell it to show you a guestimate of how the exposed image would look. For very dark images though, there might not be a lot of detail to focus with, but 1/2 is better than nothing! 😀
@@andytol1976 thanks I ended up having my Sony a6000 converted full spectrum I just got it back I’m going to play with it when it warms up here in Cali it’s been cold and windy. I want to get a kolari chrome IR filter but can’t really afford it so may get one of the less expensive fakes from China.
Thank you but I don’t know how to use Lightroom and I don’t have it I only have pixelmator photo for my iPad I just downloaded it. Can you help me use Pixelmator Photo to do the same editing? Thank you your infrared videos are the best. This is too complicated I set custom WB first
It is my understanding that my mirrorless (Canon M50) can't focus once I put my Hoya R72 filter on my lens. What is the recommended means of focus as you also mention that the focus will be different from lens to lens with filter?
Focusing without the filter will be inaccurate. I would recommend cranking the ISO to the highest level, setting a focus, and then returning it to a low value, all with the filter on.
Very nice and informative tutorial Michael. Makes me wonder if it is really justified to have a camera conversion given that you can relatively easily mimic the results by simply using a filter.
Using an unmodified camera is a great way to get started and learn about IR. It's also good if you are interested in long exposure infrared. Modifying a camera is not only a financial investment, but when modifying your first camera, it can be an emotional investment. "Am I going to ruin this camera?" 😱 Converted cameras have a number of advantages. They allow for exposure times that can be handheld. Not carrying a tripod is a big advantage. Shooting deep infrared (800nm+) with an unmodified camera requires a 10-minute (!) exposure while using a converted camera allows for a 1/30 second exposure. Converted cameras also offer more styles of infrared, such as dual-pass (IRchrome) and super color (590nm), which cannot be matched by an unconverted camera with a filter. The colors are cleaner with converted cameras. You get less noise with a converted camera. In general, I think converted cameras are "better" for infrared. However, I like that both options exist and offer a variety of creative options. 😎
I used the hoya r72 and set the custom white balance in camera on something green and now i get yellow sky and green comes out bluish white - is this the same as rhe whole process you did the the DNG files? Thanks !
@@ravijayawardane593 The DNG Profile Editor only uses DNG files to *create* a profile. However, once created the profile it will work with raw files from that same camera.
I'm so confused. I was under the absolute impression that to shoot IR the first mandatory thing to do is convert the camera itself and remove the built-in IR filter that sits in front of the sensor. Isn't that so? How can the camera see IR just by adding an IR filter screwed-in the front of the lens of then inside there the camera's own IR filter to block all IR light?
The hot mirror built into an unconverted camera transmits visible light and blocks IR light. An R72 filter (720nm) transmits IR light and blocks visible light. However, neither offers perfect 100% transmission or blocking. For example, if the hot mirror transmits 3% of IR light and the R72 transmits 1% of visible light, when used together, you will get three times as much IR as visible light. This difference is enough to capture an IR image, albeit with a much longer exposure.
I vcan't see the "profile" option on the right ...... it just says : Treatment / color / BW and under that : the color picker / WB / Custom buttons .. ?? I'm in Lightroom 5 Do i need to use Lightroom classic ?? Could it be somewhere else ?? (camera calibration roll down menu ?)
I have not tested in stand-alone versions of LR, only in the subscription version. That could be a limiter. Be sure to double-check that you save the profile in the correct location. If it's not in the correct file location, it will not appear. Once you've done that, if it's still not working, the older version could be a limit.
You can use either or both. You can start with Lightroom to apply the profile and set a white balance, then you can switch over to Photoshop to do the color swap. If you want to keep the entire workflow within Lightroom, then you will need to create an enhanced profile. Video for creating an enhanced profile is here: ua-cam.com/video/jYk6Jr-0a_I/v-deo.html An article with instructions is here: blog.robsheaphotography.com/2020/06/29/lightroom-lut.html
Yeah, I think I'll stick with modifying a camera. Using an IR filter doesn't help since the camera has another filter that blocks IR, so you don't get much of the IR light.
I'm not getting the same results at all. When I pick a white balance colour the whole picture just goes super dark, and when I export the dng to lightroom I get no change (or very little) in my Temp slider. My pictures also turn out super noisy and there's no colour separation when editing in photoshop.
1. Ensure you are using a high-quality infrared filter from a reputable brand. I recommend the Hoya R72. 2. Ensure that you are using a low ISO. A tripod or stable surface may be required for an unconverted camera due to the long exposure times. 3. Ensure that you are shooting in raw. (It sounds like you are with a dng file.) 4. Ensure that you are using a temp correcting profile for your camera. Otherwise, you will not be able to get a good WB. 590.red/infrared-profile-pack
@@robshea i've tried with zomei 680nm and i'm not getting good results, even with a full spectrum p&s, but i'm not shure that the problem is the filter
Chuckles. Any camera? 720 faux colour (blues with white/yellow foliage) from a Sigma foveon sensor 😃 and not the aerochrome mimic.. Seriously all your videos on IR processing hit the appropriate spots. Thank you.
@@robshea ok. No problem. Leave the idea with me a couple of weeks. Away from home, now, with limited broadband access. Hoping to get some fresher shots when it stops raining!
@@robshea Two landscapes in dropbox for you. Both 720nm filter. White Balance set at 2500K n camera. Original files pushed through Affinity with no changes other than export as tiffs. Both scenes from Lewis/Harris.
4 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 200. Depending on the light conditions and other settings, I've commonly shot on an unconverted camera, with a 720nm filter, and low ISO, between 4 and 30 seconds.
In my days, IR filters required a lens with the red focus line, a high f stop and a 5 second exposure which means the photo will show wind and cloud blur. How are these guys getting around that today?
With an unconverted camera and a 720nm filter, you can expect exposure times of around 5-30 seconds, similar to what is covered in this video. You could use a lens with an infrared index mark, but you will get more accurate focus with live view and focus assist tools, such as focus peaking. With a converted camera, you can expect exposure times closer to visible light photography, in the hundredths of a second.
Why don't you just use photoshop instead of changing from LR to PS and back to LR. Seems a lot of moving an image. Everything you have done in LR can be done in Adobe Camera Raw in Photoshop.
If you process a large number of images, you might find that LR can cover much of the basic processing that you wish to accomplish faster. You can also perform this work entirely in PS. You can also use Actions to speed the workflow in PS. ua-cam.com/video/k7ZoMCE6u0c/v-deo.html
Why do you complicate it so much? Invert channels on PS, do your adjustments as you'd do on a regular image, if you want BW IR convert to BW or desaturate and that's about it. And yes, I shoot IR on converted and unconverted digitals and on film. Unconverted are inconvenient because of the tripod and long exposure. Focus is never a problem on IR, DoF is much deeper than in visible light, so I think you're closing your lens a lot more than necessary. RAW and WB "extended" control won't get you anywhere if the exposure is wrong, so you can shoot JPG if you like (PS still gives you a really fair ammount of WB control). Hotspots at the center.. I NEVER HAD and I use all kind of crappy lenses (not that crappy, but not that expensive either). HOWEVER, if you want a fast way to shoot BW infrared that looks amazing... Well, get a viewfinder camera and a roll of Ilford SFX200 (you can also get deep IR film, but that one has to be frozen and shot and developed within the hour, not to mention it's incredibly expensive). If it's a Minolta Himatic 7s (the one I use) you can leave it on auto and she'll measure just fine, no need for a tripod. Develop, scan (if you want your negs digitalized), adjust to your taste (on your PC or your enlarger, whatever you use), print. You're using two programs, camera profilings and a lot of unnecessary stuff, really. Also, your method won't work as good on unconverted old cameras (whether they have sensor focusing or not) since old sensors are a lot noisier than new ones. New ones are a lot more filtered than old ones. As for focus itself, if you've ever used a manual lens you'll see they have a mark for IR focusing. Displace your focus about that much if you're having trouble and that's it. I do it on my SLRs, never on the Himatic (not needed). That said, I've never tried my best camera/sensor unconverted, so in that regard thanks for the reminder. But your editing technique is far too complicated with no need for it. You can do it all without the profiles and without Lightroom. You're putting a lot of your personal taste and habits here. Take it as a constructive critique. Or ignore me at all, up to you. Regards.
There is no perfect raw editor for infrared. I've created videos covering a variety of raw editors for infrared. This allows everyone to make a personal decision about which is the best solution for them. Lightroom is a very popular editor, but it has limitations for IR. Custom profiles and color swap profiles correct these limitations. For those who prefer LR, this raw editor and process works for them.
@@robshea Fair enough. My bad. I find LR incredibly annoying. I also only shoot raw for stage photography/DMX lighting (for obvious reasons). I do think you should include the PS only method, though. I'd do it myself if I was interested in having a UA-cam channel (but it'd have to be in Spanish, I'm argentinian, so my audience would be here if I ever made this, which I won't because in the film store I go, which is a prestigious one down here, they think SFX200 is the same than HP5 and therefore they don't sell it, so imagine what less experienced photographers know about IR). Maybe my manners were bad, it was a bad night when I wrote that comment. Sorry about that. Have nice lights.
The best video ever for infrared photography! thank you very much!
Agreed!
I think it's the worst. Half of the information here is wrong.
Literally the most concise and easy to follow tutorial about infrared photography. No BS, no random photography talk, just clear and concise. Thanks man
A quick note for Fujifilm shooters (not sure of this feature in other brands):
You can set your display to show an electronic depth of field scale when using native lenses. Only just starting playing with infrared myself, but it's an invaluable tool for long exposure photography. Down side being not a lot of the Fujifilm lenses are great for infrared...
You could read the phone book, you have a captivating voice! Awesome video!!
Thanks! I'm working on the audio book version of my book. Hopefully, more interesting than the phone book.
Thank you very much to let me know that photography life can be different according through the glass you're looking through. Again thanks a lot Rob.
WOW.........Rob by far the best video on processing,I would like a lettle more on your first conversion (simpler) Your voice should be on radio, great work thanks
Thanks! Here are some other videos on monochrome conversions.
Infrared Spiral Aloe photo edit with Lightroom on iPad: ua-cam.com/video/vupMbMRb4ms/v-deo.html
Editing Infrared photo with to B&W Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro: ua-cam.com/video/_qrEB9U-SG8/v-deo.html
Editing Infrared to B&W with Lightroom: ua-cam.com/video/eV6ALBeDtY8/v-deo.html
A Full Spectrum conversion allows you to shoot IR without a tripod. I have converted over 200 cameras. The only downside is that you must use a filter.
Wow. Just getting ready to dip my toes in the water of digital IR. This tutorial explains so much. Subbed.
Very grateful you created this tutorial. I have followed this channel after scouring the internet for tutorials on IR photography using filters since in Trinidad and Tobago (West Indies) I know no one who repairs, far less, modifies digital cameras. Thanks very much for this great tutorial!!!
Fascinating.
I’ve never done infrared photography before, but your video has really piqued my interest.
Thank you for a great video
You're the master of masters! Best video about this i've seen, thank you so much
You nailed the reflections in the intro videos !!
By far the best video on the internet giving an overview of the whole IR process. Thanks giving your time to produce it.
Perfect! you've done a wonderful job putting together for infrared capture and editing.
Very helpful and covered all of the basics of getting started. Now for the experimentation.
Perfect voice for speaking
Fantastic! Just found this video today, it is the best tutorial out there for a solid intro to IR editing. Thank you!
Quite clear in depth-going instructions. Thx a lot mate.
Thanks!
Dude you’re the man, thank you so much, I’ve been trying to figure this out but you’re way of explaining it was good to go.
Wow... The quality of this video and the explanations are top notch.. presented so well..easy to understand and do a trial... Thank you so much 🙏
Loved this, watched it a few times. What I do not understand is how everyone's tree images are white when the open to post process but mine never are. I have followed every step by step process, custom white balance, channel swaps, etc. Have Canon 5d Mark IV and 720 IR filter. Thanks for your informative video, very easy to follow. I am just not having luck getting any white trees.
Your results will vary depending on your camera's sensor and the specific model of filter used. Getting a small amount of color in the foliage is normal. You can make it white in Photoshop with a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, by reducing the saturation for that specific color channel to 0. In Lightroom, you can use HSL to reduce the saturation for a specific color. I've had a couple questions about this topic, so I will address in an upcoming video.
@@robshea Thanks for the comments and looking forward to yoru next videos. This was a great "start to finish" and I feel like I have tried everything, including those you mentioned. I used an Ice Optical Glass IR 760, great reviews but maybe its the filter. Ill keep trying. Thanks again!
@@debbiecrowe4733 The results could also look different on a converted camera compared to an unconverted camera. With an unconverted camera, you will get more color passing through due to the longer exposures. The foliage will be less saturated with a converted camera.
@@robshea Thanks, I am also looking into the converted cameras. Might be a better option for me!
Great video and even better channel I’m really thankful you make these videos it helps me out a lot
Trouble with colour IR is that the magenta also affects the subject and the sky. With the subject, you can use the motive mask in LR and reduce the saturation but the sky is really difficult. Linear mask and then cool the white balance + reduce haze is the best I can do to eliminate it. Thanks for the great videos by the way: my Surface Pro 8 was getting pretty hot switching between LR and PS.
OUTSTANDING
deep black sky and white foliage on unconverted camera is 720nm enough and do the rest in post or go for higher nm
thanks Rob
This is so clear. .Thank you!
Thanks! Superb as always...
I'm puzzled. Don't all unmodified cameras include an IR-cut filter that blocks IR wavelengths from reaching the sensor? How can the addition of an IR-pass filter over the lens allow IR wavelengths to reach the sensor in an unmodified camera? I thought the only way to be able to use IR filters over the lens was to modify the camera for full spectrum???
Yes, unmodified cameras contain a hot mirror filter that blocks most, but not all, IR light. For example, let's say that the hot mirror filter in your camera blocks about 8-stops of infrared light and allows all visible light to pass. The blocking of IR is enough to allow the visible light to dominate the images. If you add an R72 filter that blocks 12 stops of visible light, now you are getting 4-stops more IR light than visible light. Thus, you can capture IR with an unmodified camera. Of course, you are going to have very long exposures as a result, somewhere around 5-30 seconds. You will want to use a high-quality IR filter for this, as low-quality filters will allow too much visible light to pass.
I’ve never shot infrared and didn’t even know that you could with just a filter. I thought you needed to modify the sensor. With that said, and I could be wrong, but I believe there’s a much faster workflow to deal with the temperature slider bottoming out, which I saw in another infrared tutorial. They sent the file to photoshop and in filters used “convert to raw,” at which point they had a temperature slider that was at the midpoint so you could pull that back to the left to cool it down. That might save you from doing a lot of what’s shown here.
A converted camera, which removes the internal hot mirror from a camera, is not required to shoot infrared photography. It will provide more flexibility of styles and exposure times, but it is not required. You can shoot infrared photography with any mirrorless or DSLR camera.
The alternative workflow that you referenced is actually slower, as it requires you to white balance the image twice. That workflow will grow tedious when editing many infrared images.
I love your channel. I would love to see more! Dark table has an update and it doesn't have channel mixer. And video would be awesome.
Thanks! I have many more videos planned, including more on darktable.
How can you create your own enhanced profile to have the color swap inside of LR? cant see a link in the description that leads to a tutorial :(
You can purchase here: www.robsheaphotography.com/lightroom-infrared-color-swap-profiles/
Here are instructions to roll your own: www.robsheaphotography.com/2020/06/29/lightroom-lut.html
@@robshea thanks! i just saw you cant import .cube LUT files into Lightroom ( non classic )
I just downloaded your free color swap LUTs but struggle to get them into LR :(
@@JohnnyFehr LR doesn't support LUTs directly. However, you can use LUTs to create enhanced profiles, which are what the two prior links reference.
amazing to listen / watch and I matched your moves to get it ok. However - it didnt workjust like you demonstrated? This IS my first IR try. Having used the Hoya IR72 and resulted in a red immage. DNJ etc. Developed my profile and found it in Lrcc. But here on in the changes you demonstrated just didnt happen. I have Macbook pro M1 and Nikn Z7 II. any idease would be welcome..... I have subscribed and Liked - I am hooked....
Filter is good. You might try the Infrared Profile Pack, just to be sure it is not a profile issue. You can download them here: 590.red/infrared-profile-pack
@@robshea thanks, and I have downloaded your pack but made no difference ~ I'll rethink and keep trying though ....
Just rewatched your video ~ hmmm, my 1st shot was in complete manual instead of auto or EP ‼️ and I cable released for about 20 seconds ...... time to redo and then see result; waiting now on weather 🌧️
@@jamesss1953 I usually go manual on f-stop and ISO, while auto on shutter speed. This would be "aperture priority" on some cameras.
@@jamesss1953 If you like, you can send me a raw image and I can offer some feedback. Send image here: 590.red/share
Well done!
Wow, I wondered about this- you took it all the way
To add more shadow detail, can you exposure bracket then fuse the images into one that contains brighter shadows before proceeding to the rest of the post-processing procedures?
You certainly can exposure bracket and use HDR techniques to merge images. I've tested this extensively with IR, but I've general found it not as helpful as it is with visible light images. Most of the time, a single not over-exposed image produces the results and the shadow detail I'm looking for. The only cases where I actually merge the images, instead of selecting a single image among the brackets, are cases were there is an extreme difference in exposure, such as dark shadows and while pointing towards to the sun. Here is an HDR example: instagram.com/p/CVsbDcnF4eb/
Thank you Rob!
Great video!
Found your tutorials helpful 👍🏻
My question is
Since we don’t have to do custom white balance , do we set the camera to auto white balance?
If you are shooting in raw, it doesn't matter what WB you set, since you will have full control of the white balance while editing. If your image is difficult to see on the camera screen, setting a custom while balance on grass or a neutral gray subject may make it easier to frame your subject.
This is awesome
Thanks for the great video
Thank you !
Cls light pollution filters are pretty cool in the daytime. They turn sodium yellow flowers an orange red and the photo has an over all Teal aqua look.
This Video is great!!! Thank you very much. 👍🏻
I'm aiming to convert my Nikon Coolpix P1000 to Full Spectrum and use my Hoya 720NM with it as it is too expensive to buy a Full Frame Camera and convert it to Full Spectrum and add to the hassle to get the proper Zoom Lens as I intend to shoot the Skies which means to Manual Focus or Auto Focus at Infinity ... I chose the P1000 as it shoots RAW as a Ring Focuser for Manual Focusing and is 4K also plus have more features than other Point and Shoot , not to forget its amazing Optical Zooming of 125x... I'm using it for Research of Unexplained Aerial Phenomena ... your Opinion is valuable , please
The main challenge with any all-in-one system for infrared is ensuring that the lens does not produce hot spots. A quick search shows that at least two companies who do full spectrum camera conversion support the P1000. This suggests that the lens works well in infrared. Looks like a solid choice.
@@robshea thank You ... really appreciated... love your OUTSTANDING Video... thank you
Hi Rob I’m trying a Hoya r72 on my Sony unconverted a6400 the lcd screen is too dark almost black how can I tell what I’m shooting? I put the filter on I can’t manually focus because the screen is too dark. Is there a way to brighten the lcd to see?
I would recommend increasing the ISO for the sake of setting a composition and focusing, but then returning to a lower ISO before taking the shot.
Does the a6400 have a "preview exposure" setting? If so, try turning that on/off to see if that helps. Under usual circumstances; off would give you an image of what the camera "sees" in real time, on would tell it to show you a guestimate of how the exposed image would look. For very dark images though, there might not be a lot of detail to focus with, but 1/2 is better than nothing! 😀
@@andytol1976 thanks I ended up having my Sony a6000 converted full spectrum I just got it back I’m going to play with it when it warms up here in Cali it’s been cold and windy. I want to get a kolari chrome IR filter but can’t really afford it so may get one of the less expensive fakes from China.
@@leighann5308Do you have a link for a good fake IR Chrome filter?
Thank you but I don’t know how to use Lightroom and I don’t have it I only have pixelmator photo for my iPad I just downloaded it. Can you help me use Pixelmator Photo to do the same editing? Thank you your infrared videos are the best. This is too complicated I set custom WB first
I have videos for Pixelmator Pro: ua-cam.com/video/F5Np0ZUXwjQ/v-deo.html
and Pixelmator Photo: ua-cam.com/video/5Xk2nIUPtDY/v-deo.html
@@robsheathanks Rob do they both have a channel mixer? I have the 12.9 last years iPad Pro.
@@leighann5308 Yes, both have a channel mixer.
It is my understanding that my mirrorless (Canon M50) can't focus once I put my Hoya R72 filter on my lens. What is the recommended means of focus as you also mention that the focus will be different from lens to lens with filter?
Focusing without the filter will be inaccurate. I would recommend cranking the ISO to the highest level, setting a focus, and then returning it to a low value, all with the filter on.
@@robshea Thanks I will run some tests and see how that works out!
Very nice and informative tutorial Michael. Makes me wonder if it is really justified to have a camera conversion given that you can relatively easily mimic the results by simply using a filter.
Using an unmodified camera is a great way to get started and learn about IR. It's also good if you are interested in long exposure infrared. Modifying a camera is not only a financial investment, but when modifying your first camera, it can be an emotional investment. "Am I going to ruin this camera?" 😱
Converted cameras have a number of advantages. They allow for exposure times that can be handheld. Not carrying a tripod is a big advantage. Shooting deep infrared (800nm+) with an unmodified camera requires a 10-minute (!) exposure while using a converted camera allows for a 1/30 second exposure. Converted cameras also offer more styles of infrared, such as dual-pass (IRchrome) and super color (590nm), which cannot be matched by an unconverted camera with a filter. The colors are cleaner with converted cameras. You get less noise with a converted camera.
In general, I think converted cameras are "better" for infrared. However, I like that both options exist and offer a variety of creative options. 😎
@@robshea Thank you so much for your educated comments, Rob. Much appreciated.
I used the hoya r72 and set the custom white balance in camera on something green and now i get yellow sky and green comes out bluish white - is this the same as rhe whole process you did the the DNG files?
Thanks !
Yes, after a good white balance, the sky should be yellow and the foliage light blue. You can keep is this way or do a color swap for a blue sky.
Quick question, has your camera sensor been modified to capture full spectrum?
Not for the image in this video. This used an unmodified camera.
I watched this video so many times. Can I use DNG converter to make a DNG file format. I do not have LR. Only I have old PScc 2015. Thank you
Custom profiles also work with Photoshop Camera Raw.
@@robshea So If I have a RAW image, I do not want to use DNG converter or profile editor. Is that what you saying. Thank You
@@ravijayawardane593 The DNG Profile Editor only uses DNG files to *create* a profile. However, once created the profile it will work with raw files from that same camera.
is there a shortcut way of doing this without an infrared filter?
Not really. Buying a used Hoya R72 filter is an affordable way to get started.
I'm so confused. I was under the absolute impression that to shoot IR the first mandatory thing to do is convert the camera itself and remove the built-in IR filter that sits in front of the sensor. Isn't that so? How can the camera see IR just by adding an IR filter screwed-in the front of the lens of then inside there the camera's own IR filter to block all IR light?
The hot mirror built into an unconverted camera transmits visible light and blocks IR light. An R72 filter (720nm) transmits IR light and blocks visible light. However, neither offers perfect 100% transmission or blocking. For example, if the hot mirror transmits 3% of IR light and the R72 transmits 1% of visible light, when used together, you will get three times as much IR as visible light. This difference is enough to capture an IR image, albeit with a much longer exposure.
I vcan't see the "profile" option on the right ...... it just says : Treatment / color / BW
and under that : the color picker / WB / Custom buttons .. ??
I'm in Lightroom 5
Do i need to use Lightroom classic ??
Could it be somewhere else ?? (camera calibration roll down menu ?)
I have not tested in stand-alone versions of LR, only in the subscription version. That could be a limiter. Be sure to double-check that you save the profile in the correct location. If it's not in the correct file location, it will not appear. Once you've done that, if it's still not working, the older version could be a limit.
Can you just use Lightroom or do you need Photoshop?
You can use either or both. You can start with Lightroom to apply the profile and set a white balance, then you can switch over to Photoshop to do the color swap. If you want to keep the entire workflow within Lightroom, then you will need to create an enhanced profile. Video for creating an enhanced profile is here: ua-cam.com/video/jYk6Jr-0a_I/v-deo.html An article with instructions is here: blog.robsheaphotography.com/2020/06/29/lightroom-lut.html
Yeah, I think I'll stick with modifying a camera.
Using an IR filter doesn't help since the camera has another filter that blocks IR, so you don't get much of the IR light.
Modifying a camera will certainly give you more flexibility.
I'm ordering the Hoya filter while watching this
I'm not getting the same results at all. When I pick a white balance colour the whole picture just goes super dark, and when I export the dng to lightroom I get no change (or very little) in my Temp slider. My pictures also turn out super noisy and there's no colour separation when editing in photoshop.
1. Ensure you are using a high-quality infrared filter from a reputable brand. I recommend the Hoya R72.
2. Ensure that you are using a low ISO. A tripod or stable surface may be required for an unconverted camera due to the long exposure times.
3. Ensure that you are shooting in raw. (It sounds like you are with a dng file.)
4. Ensure that you are using a temp correcting profile for your camera. Otherwise, you will not be able to get a good WB. 590.red/infrared-profile-pack
@@robsheais zomei a good brand?
@@rubenalejandro1799 I have not used them. In the tests that I've seen online, they leak wavelengths that they should be blocking.
@@robshea i've tried with zomei 680nm and i'm not getting good results, even with a full spectrum p&s, but i'm not shure that the problem is the filter
@@rubenalejandro1799 You are welcome to send me a raw file. I can take a look at it. 590.red/share
Hi Rob
Can you help me please, I cannot get the foliage in my images to go white or the sky to blue I use ON 1 raw photo editing.Thanks in advance.
Hey Graham, I replied to your issue in FB. I suspect you have an issue WB the image in the editor before doing the channel mixer color swap.
Is it working on canon ?
Yes, this will work with Canon cameras.
Thanks.
Have you experimented with infrared photography in or near fires?
Yes, here is an example: instagram.com/p/CQ4hicQn0GT/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Chuckles. Any camera?
720 faux colour (blues with white/yellow foliage) from a Sigma foveon sensor 😃 and not the aerochrome mimic..
Seriously all your videos on IR processing hit the appropriate spots. Thank you.
If you have any Sigma raw files, I would love to take a crack at them. 😀
@@robshea big files. Not too sure how we'd transfer them.
@@geoffc1862 Use this link to send me large raw files. Also, be sure to let me know what filters were used for each image. 590.red/share
@@robshea ok. No problem. Leave the idea with me a couple of weeks. Away from home, now, with limited broadband access. Hoping to get some fresher shots when it stops raining!
@@robshea Two landscapes in dropbox for you. Both 720nm filter. White Balance set at 2500K n camera. Original files pushed through Affinity with no changes other than export as tiffs. Both scenes from Lewis/Harris.
Time exposure?
4 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 200. Depending on the light conditions and other settings, I've commonly shot on an unconverted camera, with a 720nm filter, and low ISO, between 4 and 30 seconds.
So ANY dslr will work?
Any DSLR with a live view screen. The focus will be accurate with live view, but not with an optical viewfinder.
Best.
In my days, IR filters required a lens with the red focus line, a high f stop and a 5 second exposure which means the photo will show wind and cloud blur. How are these guys getting around that today?
With an unconverted camera and a 720nm filter, you can expect exposure times of around 5-30 seconds, similar to what is covered in this video. You could use a lens with an infrared index mark, but you will get more accurate focus with live view and focus assist tools, such as focus peaking.
With a converted camera, you can expect exposure times closer to visible light photography, in the hundredths of a second.
This does not work with a Canon 5D MK II
Is there a particular step that is not working for you?
@@robshea Canon 5d Mark ii unmodified does not work in infrared with the IR72 or IR720 filters it's low pass filter is too strong.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Why don't you just use photoshop instead of changing from LR to PS and back to LR. Seems a lot of moving an image. Everything you have done in LR can be done in Adobe Camera Raw in Photoshop.
If you process a large number of images, you might find that LR can cover much of the basic processing that you wish to accomplish faster. You can also perform this work entirely in PS. You can also use Actions to speed the workflow in PS. ua-cam.com/video/k7ZoMCE6u0c/v-deo.html
The title of your video is a bit of a lie isn't it? Take my Nikon F2 or Canon FTb, your video just dose not cover this type of camera!
Stop crying we all know what he is talking about, get out of the dark ages and get a digital camera.
@@nick-dm3if I am not crying I'm just pointing out the lie in the title of this video...oh I have a Sony digital so screw you.
Why do you complicate it so much? Invert channels on PS, do your adjustments as you'd do on a regular image, if you want BW IR convert to BW or desaturate and that's about it. And yes, I shoot IR on converted and unconverted digitals and on film. Unconverted are inconvenient because of the tripod and long exposure. Focus is never a problem on IR, DoF is much deeper than in visible light, so I think you're closing your lens a lot more than necessary. RAW and WB "extended" control won't get you anywhere if the exposure is wrong, so you can shoot JPG if you like (PS still gives you a really fair ammount of WB control). Hotspots at the center.. I NEVER HAD and I use all kind of crappy lenses (not that crappy, but not that expensive either). HOWEVER, if you want a fast way to shoot BW infrared that looks amazing... Well, get a viewfinder camera and a roll of Ilford SFX200 (you can also get deep IR film, but that one has to be frozen and shot and developed within the hour, not to mention it's incredibly expensive). If it's a Minolta Himatic 7s (the one I use) you can leave it on auto and she'll measure just fine, no need for a tripod. Develop, scan (if you want your negs digitalized), adjust to your taste (on your PC or your enlarger, whatever you use), print. You're using two programs, camera profilings and a lot of unnecessary stuff, really. Also, your method won't work as good on unconverted old cameras (whether they have sensor focusing or not) since old sensors are a lot noisier than new ones. New ones are a lot more filtered than old ones. As for focus itself, if you've ever used a manual lens you'll see they have a mark for IR focusing. Displace your focus about that much if you're having trouble and that's it. I do it on my SLRs, never on the Himatic (not needed). That said, I've never tried my best camera/sensor unconverted, so in that regard thanks for the reminder. But your editing technique is far too complicated with no need for it. You can do it all without the profiles and without Lightroom. You're putting a lot of your personal taste and habits here. Take it as a constructive critique. Or ignore me at all, up to you. Regards.
There is no perfect raw editor for infrared. I've created videos covering a variety of raw editors for infrared. This allows everyone to make a personal decision about which is the best solution for them. Lightroom is a very popular editor, but it has limitations for IR. Custom profiles and color swap profiles correct these limitations. For those who prefer LR, this raw editor and process works for them.
@@robshea Fair enough. My bad. I find LR incredibly annoying. I also only shoot raw for stage photography/DMX lighting (for obvious reasons). I do think you should include the PS only method, though. I'd do it myself if I was interested in having a UA-cam channel (but it'd have to be in Spanish, I'm argentinian, so my audience would be here if I ever made this, which I won't because in the film store I go, which is a prestigious one down here, they think SFX200 is the same than HP5 and therefore they don't sell it, so imagine what less experienced photographers know about IR). Maybe my manners were bad, it was a bad night when I wrote that comment. Sorry about that. Have nice lights.
@@nevermind4328 Here is a video on PS only: ua-cam.com/video/QGPp_6dUqQs/v-deo.html