Just a suggestion to a first timer: if you’re going to bend the track to change out the bottom roller, skip unbolting them from the hinges and just do ALL of them at the part of the track you just bent. The top one, just unlatch the door, put the door all the way up and just twist/flex the track to pop in and out the upper rollers.
Tried this with mine and the track I have is about 10x thicker steel and harder to bend than yours. When I got it bent as shown, it does not twist, therefore the pulley wheel could not be pushed/twisted out of the now bent open track. Getting the track back in shape was a killer, and I managed to break a set of Vice grips in the process. This technique does not work for thicker metal tracks and there are other videos which show how to safely (and hopefully easily) temporarily just remove the vertical portion of track to perform the pulley swap. Will try that next. Note how thin and easily bendable the track in this video is before attempting this with any thicker steel track.
Majority of the garage doors I’ve worked with in my 9 years have track like this. I have encountered the track you’re talking about and yes it’s pretty ridiculous to try and bend it out. Removing the vertical portion is an option just a little bit riskier. As with every video on UA-cam I think you have to take it with a grain of salt as there are so many variables that can come into play for each person and their task. Thanks for stopping by 👍🏻
Thanks for the thoughtful reply. Definitely true - every situation will be different so I appreciate seeing various options for approaches when prepping to start any project. Had I had the thinner steel track, your method definitely would’ve been quicker. Knowing the dangers of the bottom bracket cable tension (even with the door all the way up) I was able to handle replacement of the bottom rollers pretty easily by just opening the door fully, marking the position of the nuts/bracket that held the vertical portion of track to the wooden door frame with a marker, unscrewing the single lag screw holding the track’s bracket to the wood door frame (just two or three lag screws total on each side - the bottom one I was able to leave alone) and pushing the top of the track outward enough to allow the roller swap, then reattaching the vertical track to the wall. For those who have the thick steel track I’ve got, this is the video I found showing the alternative method I found on YT: ua-cam.com/video/1eVbyLRMP-k/v-deo.html Thanks for your video - always appreciate having options!
So if you’re changing out torsion springs you could essentially detach the tension wires from the drum and do the change the bottom roller by unscrewing the hinge/panel too, right?
If you’re already doing the springs then yes, most people will not mess with the springs though, nor should they haha If you know what you’re doing then you should be ok. 👍🏻
For extension spring doors, open the door, detach the tension wire, (then use a clamp on the rail to make sure the door doesn't roll down, and also first remember what hole the wire hooks back in to), remove the bracket and replace the roller then re-attach bracket, then re hook up the tension wire, remove clamp and repeat on other side.
I just ordered some rollers for my garage door, and I'm also having trouble with faulty sensors. When I try to close the garage door, sometimes it takes five or six times for it to go down, and sometimes I have to pull the release and lower it down, and then it goes back to intermittently; I have a guy coming out that installed these garage door I might just let him put the rollers on he just installed the opener not the garage door itself. I actually hung the garage door opener, but I have a severely torn rotator cuff, so I let them finish up stapling the wires to the ceiling and installing the sensors. A few years back, I had to adjust the Tension on the spring; where I used to work, we had great big rollup doors, and the company would come to work on them, and they showed me some tips to stay safe when tensioning there's a possibility of even being a fatal accident special with industrial doors.
Can u do a video how to adjust the tension on doors with springs in each side. How tight should that side wire be when the door is fully open? Should that moving pulley on the side, that moves towards the back, be hanging above or below the track? This pulley has a looped metal to prevent the wite from coming out. What is the pyrpose of the this metal that has a notch outward on 1 side?
Chamberlain LiftMaster you can bend the tracks at any point, it’ll just be a little harder. There are two more ways to change the bottom roller but I’m still debating on whether or not I should do it.
Hey all you garage guru's (seriously, not being snarky), I have a garage door that's come off the track about 5 times now (I KNOW, why haven't I called a garage door guy yet)......point is I'm curious...is it your opinion the most likely reason this has happened is due to faulty rollers? I've been in this house probably 7 years? And it's really only done this sporadically about the last two years. AND it's always the one side coming off the track. Thank you! Update: I just inspected the rollers and everything moves pretty well. I don't see any missing bearings. The only thing I could see that might be an issue is the top two rollers seem canted. So for perspective, if you were looking out the garage, these two rollers, if wheels on a "squat car" would be kinda canted out. Know what I mean? And it's not the roller per se but the mounting bracket is basically MAKING the rollers can't out. I'm thinking this is the issue?
Hello DG, is this the top wheels that are popping out on you each time? I honestly do not think it’s the actual roller itself unless they’re chewed up. I’d check the tracks to make sure there aren’t any bends anywhere a wheel could pop out, then check for and spots the door might be getting caught, creating a bounce. Usually when you get a bounce a cable slips off and the wheels go all over the place. ( not sure that’s the case here ) Without being there it’s obviously difficult to tell you 100% but if you wanted to send me some pictures I’d be happy to look at them to try to spot something. Garagedoorguidance @ yahoo.com
@@GarageDoorGuidance top "ones" but always on one side. Ill take your advice and thank u for the offer to look at pics. I may very well take u up on that offer. 😉
Your top hinges like that because you’re your doors a low headroom track that means you don’t have a 6 foot tall garage and that’s why you might see why you have two tracks and the two tracks only run with the one roller is the one on the top because it’s a low headroom track in account and I can expand like it usually does on a regular door. Um, I have low headroom on one of my garage is, I have two car garage and I put two car cars in there and I noticed that one of my doors have a little headroom track and I looked up it and it said at all I can fix that by just putting the taller ceiling and add it because like it’s a lower ceiling on the one part of the garage and it’s a higher ceiling on the other part of the garage so don’t think I’m telling you what to do just I’m telling you why and it’s a nice thing to do
They had a beam in the back which forced the low headroom track, you could also do standard track, cut the rear so it butts into the beam and install a jack shaft opener to get the regular opening but that always costs more
There is NO tension on the bottom bracket when the door is fully OPEN. Therefore, absolutely safe to replace roller. This is just spreading disinformation. Perhaps you could publish an update to clarify this. And if you do the bend method, you don't even need to remove the bracket.
You can do that but you will also now need to make sure your cable won’t unravel as you work with it. This is not disinformation lol the cable still has some tension even when fully open if the springs are holding correct tension.
![Garage Door Rollers and Hinges Replacement [How to *2019 Updated]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cwYdmlnpfWI/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a suggestion to a first timer: if you’re going to bend the track to change out the bottom roller, skip unbolting them from the hinges and just do ALL of them at the part of the track you just bent. The top one, just unlatch the door, put the door all the way up and just twist/flex the track to pop in and out the upper rollers.
Tried this with mine and the track I have is about 10x thicker steel and harder to bend than yours. When I got it bent as shown, it does not twist, therefore the pulley wheel could not be pushed/twisted out of the now bent open track. Getting the track back in shape was a killer, and I managed to break a set of Vice grips in the process. This technique does not work for thicker metal tracks and there are other videos which show how to safely (and hopefully easily) temporarily just remove the vertical portion of track to perform the pulley swap. Will try that next. Note how thin and easily bendable the track in this video is before attempting this with any thicker steel track.
Majority of the garage doors I’ve worked with in my 9 years have track like this. I have encountered the track you’re talking about and yes it’s pretty ridiculous to try and bend it out. Removing the vertical portion is an option just a little bit riskier. As with every video on UA-cam I think you have to take it with a grain of salt as there are so many variables that can come into play for each person and their task. Thanks for stopping by 👍🏻
Thanks for the thoughtful reply. Definitely true - every situation will be different so I appreciate seeing various options for approaches when prepping to start any project. Had I had the thinner steel track, your method definitely would’ve been quicker. Knowing the dangers of the bottom bracket cable tension (even with the door all the way up) I was able to handle replacement of the bottom rollers pretty easily by just opening the door fully, marking the position of the nuts/bracket that held the vertical portion of track to the wooden door frame with a marker, unscrewing the single lag screw holding the track’s bracket to the wood door frame (just two or three lag screws total on each side - the bottom one I was able to leave alone) and pushing the top of the track outward enough to allow the roller swap, then reattaching the vertical track to the wall. For those who have the thick steel track I’ve got, this is the video I found showing the alternative method I found on YT:
ua-cam.com/video/1eVbyLRMP-k/v-deo.html
Thanks for your video - always appreciate having options!
So if you’re changing out torsion springs you could essentially detach the tension wires from the drum and do the change the bottom roller by unscrewing the hinge/panel too, right?
If you’re already doing the springs then yes, most people will not mess with the springs though, nor should they haha
If you know what you’re doing then you should be ok. 👍🏻
For extension spring doors, open the door, detach the tension wire, (then use a clamp on the rail to make sure the door doesn't roll down, and also first remember what hole the wire hooks back in to), remove the bracket and replace the roller then re-attach bracket, then re hook up the tension wire, remove clamp and repeat on other side.
I just ordered some rollers for my garage door, and I'm also having trouble with faulty sensors. When I try to close the garage door, sometimes it takes five or six times for it to go down, and sometimes I have to pull the release and lower it down, and then it goes back to intermittently; I have a guy coming out that installed these garage door I might just let him put the rollers on he just installed the opener not the garage door itself. I actually hung the garage door opener, but I have a severely torn rotator cuff, so I let them finish up stapling the wires to the ceiling and installing the sensors. A few years back, I had to adjust the Tension on the spring; where I used to work, we had great big rollup doors, and the company would come to work on them, and they showed me some tips to stay safe when tensioning there's a possibility of even being a fatal accident special with industrial doors.
Sometimes it is better to just pay someone and have it done safely 👍🏻
Others suggest using a Sharpie to mark hinges top and bottom to ensure replacing them back in exactly same location.
Solid Tutorial! Nicely done.
Can u do a video how to adjust the tension on doors with springs in each side.
How tight should that side wire be when the door is fully open? Should that moving pulley on the side, that moves towards the back, be hanging above or below the track?
This pulley has a looped metal to prevent the wite from coming out. What is the pyrpose of the this metal that has a notch outward on 1 side?
Send me an email of what springs you have. My email is my UA-cam name at yahoo
It help me so much for a first timer to replace my garage door.
You only have to bend it about 1/2 that far. And if you have a way to pry it back in, you don't need to bend it at all.
How would you do the bottom roller on a high-lift garage door?
Chamberlain LiftMaster you can bend the tracks at any point, it’ll just be a little harder. There are two more ways to change the bottom roller but I’m still debating on whether or not I should do it.
Wow! Great video 👍 , going to replace my rollers tomorrow. Thank you.
Quang Nguyen thanks for the support (:
Thank you 😊 great and helpful video
Great job
Hey all you garage guru's (seriously, not being snarky), I have a garage door that's come off the track about 5 times now (I KNOW, why haven't I called a garage door guy yet)......point is I'm curious...is it your opinion the most likely reason this has happened is due to faulty rollers? I've been in this house probably 7 years? And it's really only done this sporadically about the last two years. AND it's always the one side coming off the track. Thank you! Update: I just inspected the rollers and everything moves pretty well. I don't see any missing bearings. The only thing I could see that might be an issue is the top two rollers seem canted. So for perspective, if you were looking out the garage, these two rollers, if wheels on a "squat car" would be kinda canted out. Know what I mean? And it's not the roller per se but the mounting bracket is basically MAKING the rollers can't out. I'm thinking this is the issue?
Hello DG, is this the top wheels that are popping out on you each time? I honestly do not think it’s the actual roller itself unless they’re chewed up.
I’d check the tracks to make sure there aren’t any bends anywhere a wheel could pop out, then check for and spots the door might be getting caught, creating a bounce. Usually when you get a bounce a cable slips off and the wheels go all over the place. ( not sure that’s the case here )
Without being there it’s obviously difficult to tell you 100% but if you wanted to send me some pictures I’d be happy to look at them to try to spot something. Garagedoorguidance @ yahoo.com
@@GarageDoorGuidance top "ones" but always on one side. Ill take your advice and thank u for the offer to look at pics. I may very well take u up on that offer. 😉
Thanks!
Your top hinges like that because you’re your doors a low headroom track that means you don’t have a 6 foot tall garage and that’s why you might see why you have two tracks and the two tracks only run with the one roller is the one on the top because it’s a low headroom track in account and I can expand like it usually does on a regular door. Um, I have low headroom on one of my garage is, I have two car garage and I put two car cars in there and I noticed that one of my doors have a little headroom track and I looked up it and it said at all I can fix that by just putting the taller ceiling and add it because like it’s a lower ceiling on the one part of the garage and it’s a higher ceiling on the other part of the garage so don’t think I’m telling you what to do just I’m telling you why and it’s a nice thing to do
They had a beam in the back which forced the low headroom track, you could also do standard track, cut the rear so it butts into the beam and install a jack shaft opener to get the regular opening but that always costs more
There is NO tension on the bottom bracket when the door is fully OPEN. Therefore, absolutely safe to replace roller.
This is just spreading disinformation. Perhaps you could publish an update to clarify this. And if you do the bend method, you don't even need to remove the bracket.
You can do that but you will also now need to make sure your cable won’t unravel as you work with it. This is not disinformation lol the cable still has some tension even when fully open if the springs are holding correct tension.