Suzuki owner bonus feedback: Thanks again for getting me back in the road. I didn't mind paying the extra cost for the Nissan OEM part. Safety was a major part of the decision. I am a happy camper!
I’m a mechanic and have a car with this code. I don’t really do this for a living do UA-cam school is a great tool and I must say young man your video was very educational I have a degree in electronics engineering that has been worth its weight in gold . You know your stuff that’s for sure. Thank you for the lesson
IVAN, THE ENTIRE AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICANS WATCHING YOUR STUDY CASES ARE GETTING DIRECT DETAIL AND ACCURATE, SIMPLIFIED, TOP OF LINE DETAIL APPROACH TO DO THEIR JOB IN A VERY PROFESSIONAL MANNER. YOU MADE THE OWNER OR THE CUSTOMER FOR LIFE. YOU ARE EXAMPLE TO HUMAINTY. ADDITIONALLY, YOU PROOFED YOUR CAPABILITY BEYOUND A REASONABLE DOUDT. YOU ARE THE BEST. THANK YOU, SIR.
Ivan- I enjoy your videos, especially because of your diligence to dig down to the exact cause of a problem and not just take an educated guess. Off the subject, your wife must be very understanding of your passion to help people with diagnostic repairs by sacrificing her garage space so you can continue to do what you do. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for mentioning the time spent on reading and research, I have experienced past employers give me dirty looks and make negative comments as if I was stealing money from them when I would be reading theory of operation before going near the vehicle to be diagnosed. There is some kind of stupidity with lots of shop owners that tell their techs if it takes more than twenty minutes to diagnose a problem, they are incompetent .
@@shawnbauman5463 Which is exactly why I retired in 2020 @ 62. Haven't touched a vehicle since. Burnt-out isn't a strong enough word. Took my tiny Social Security check, bought some more kitchen hardware so can cook for myself. Drove 2100 miles last year. 2100 total miles. Last filled my gas tank in Sept 2021. Have 1/4 tank left. I LOVE IT! Wearing out TV & internet! But also single with no children. ZERO RESPONSIBILTY is what I always wanted. Last shop was @ 30hr with 40 hour guarantee. Just couldn't stand the stupidity of management.
Just saw a cartoon that reminded me of your many unexpected diags. The cartoon shows a 'mechanic' with a car torn down into a thousand pieces and the caption reads, "Turns out it was a marble in the ashtray"
Excellent tutorial Ivan. Getting the incorrect part is always a hassle but you did the right thing by going OEM for the reasons you mentioned. I hope your extended family remains safe.
Ivan, I was hoping it was just a fuse. Obviously, way beyond that. Excellent video delineating the challenges of modern day automobiles. I think you're going to be in business for a very long time. Thanks for Sharing!
You just educated me on my Xterra that I've been trying to fix this code. The part you said in this video as the position sensor, is what I thought was the clock spring. Ugh, I changed that position sensor twice (yes junk yard parts) hoping I would get one that worked. Now from your video I realized I was changing the wrong part. Back to the junk yard. I'll update if that works
New viewer here. And I did subscribe also. Thanks 4 being an advocate 4 the working man. We work our a-s off to make $ and buy vehicles. But then when they break down, your on your own. You Sir do a great service. 5 years and no cold weather start! Are you freaking kidding me! 5 years! I don't know what your fees are, but at least the customer knows you are an honest man. I am very happy to stumble on to your channel. A Vietnan Combat Veteran (in Florida) who enjoys the heck out of your videos. Thank you Sir!
Ivan, there are no contacts in a clockspring to clean. It is actually ribbon cables that are coiled up like a clock spring and they wrap tighter in one direction and unwrap in the other. That is why you don’t want to turn them when they are removed if you plan to reinstall.
Yeah thats what i was thinking. I used to do Transmissions, and half the time on FWD cars you pull the subframe with the rack, and the steering column is freeballing. I have (in my early career) broken a clockspring by letting the steering wheel spin (Ford Contour). After the first one i started putting a bungee on the wheel and trapping it in the door. It no turn no more. Never happened again. I have torn clocksprings apart and thats how i know about the ribbon.
Great job Ivan! Taking the vehicle to you and guys that do quality work! I would paid twice as much. My time is worth something. Having to find a ride or live far away from a dealership whatever the circumstance. Peace of mind that job was done right the first time that's worth a lot!
Nice video. I know you are teaching with those videos and try to show and explain how the system works. You could take a quick guess at the clock spring and get lucky by hooking up a bidirectional scan tool and turning the wheel while watching data pids. I enjoy your logical and straight forward approaches.
I do the same Ivan. Save data before I attempt to diagnosis. I print a copy for the customer and know. These are codes and stored codes. And I ask what other items do you need fixed? I fix what they want fixed. Rescan and test drive.
Eric, excellent repair. Years ago, I was always told to disconnect the Battery as Safety Precaution when working with Air Bags. Does this still apply today?
Ivan, I love watching your videos. I always learn something new in every video you produce. I don't work on vehicles for a living, but I perform maintenance on my vehicles. I have seen some videos where you work on exact vehicles I have, with similar problems and those videos help send me down a new path. Thank you, and please keep up the excellent work.
I've always questioned the need to disconnect the battery when unplugging an airbag since those yellow connectors are designed to short the airbag signal wires on the airbag side, thereby eliminating any chance of a voltage bias. I noticed you did not disconnect the battery (dashboard was still alive). What's your rational/thoughts/justification on this?
For a DIY some scanners cannot clear SRS codes and unplugging any airbag module will hard set an SRS code. Some cars auto clear, some hard fault and need a better scanner to clear them. I replaced my seat belt connector and the annoying seat belt dinger went away along with the fasten belt indicator but hard set an SRS code I haven't cared to have cleared. I have other issues with the K-Line comm in a MK4 volkswagen not allowing me to connect a scan tool to the DLC and just gave up. At least I didn't have an annoying beeper telling me to put my seat belt on, but the SRS light is permanently on now.
Well, you right RJM. There are many ways to do the same thing but According to Nissan Repair Manual you should follow Precautions for SRS “AIR BAG”: Before servicing the SRS, turn ignition switch OFF, disconnect both battery cables and wait at least 3 minutes. For approximately 3 minutes after the cables are removed, it is still possible for the air bag and seat belt pre-tensioner to deploy. Therefore, do not work on any SRS connectors or wires until at least 3 minutes have passed. I would definitely follow the manual, not taking the change. Better be good than sorry.
I had windshield wiper issues for a long time and then my clock spring broke and wasn't shutting off my turn signals on my 2005 Dodge Magnum. So, I replaced the multi-function switch and the clock spring. Afterwards, I had a BAS light on the dash. Finally, I found a video that showed that the "collar" or housing around the steering column had to be pulled towards the steering wheel and retightened to get rid of that light. Just thought I would pass the experience on.
You need scanner to reset the steering sensor angle? That is silly from the maker. Reasonable designs just asks the driver to turn the wheel from limit to limit and viola, the sensor is calibrated, no scanner, nor even any service techjician needed... Worked that way at least with PSA and VAG, did not meet any other that needed steering reset yet... True, some did not mention it explicitly (on the dashboard display), but when I tried it anyway (it became my habit when having to mess up with the battery; it has to see the movement over the whole range), it calibrates itself and the yellow steering warning light goes off...
Hi Ivan, just started a renewed interest in your videos since I'm taking the winter off from work, truly impressed with how you make diagnosis look so simple, I guess if the dealers can't do it, you find away, stay warm up there......k....Tulsa
Great job on the diagnose, on parts I know the feeling even when you get a dealer part and they go off your Vin and it looks the same but it's not!... then they say, oh that part is going to take three days!.. now you have an upset customer who needs the car for work... then they say I should have taking my car to the dealer!... oh we'll it is what it is I guess. Thanks for your videos and your hard work stay strong.
Hi Ivan clock spring can be repaired usually traces broken with copper wire and some soldering you can fix it I have done it more than once but in my car not others :)
Hi saed, unfortunately that is not the case for the frontier, i had replaced mine several times and its not fixable, its a thin ribbon cable that makes a spiral form around the steering column, when it goes bad, it gets wrinkled pretty bad and there's no hope in fixing it. And me having replaced it several times proves that getting the cheap aftermarket substitute is a bad idea
Don't know if it will apply to any other vehicles... I have a 2004 silverado that lost the use of cruise control... BOTH rear brake lights had burned out... Replaced the bulbs and it has worked fine for the last 5 years... Found the idea on some forums...
Evening Ivan. Yesterday evening my grand daughter stop for a visit. 😊. My daughter says. Can you diagnosis her 14 Cruise 1.4 after work?. I said no. In the morning after breakfast. So I drove home. She pulled into my Shade tree carport.😄. Got my scanner talking to da car. Lots of codes. Take a pre repair scan and print. Next I clear the codes. Now it's only a few. O2 sensor Bad oil leak all over. 1 / 2 Plug misfire codes. Map sensor Mass air flow seems high? Belt tensioner making a racket. Serpentine belt soaked in oil. Feels like a rubber band. Pull cover for coil pack. Sparkees soaked in oil from bad valve cover. Sparkees boots oil soaked and causing misfire. Pull mass air flow. Clean mass air flow. Clean connectors with electrical cleaner. Off to parts store. Gather parts needed. Bought parts in case I need it. Pull valve cover. Torn gasket and cracked. Clean sparkees and blow out junk. Reinstall. Take car for a toot. O2 sensor dead? Take reads. All good from ECM. Pull o2 sensor and replace. Pull map sensor and replace after power and grounds check. Test drive again. O2 sensor is working good and map sensor is looking good. Rescan. All is good except for busted window regulator . Code states regulator needs cal. Onto the oil leak. Looks like exon Valdez under car. Pull crank seal and replace. Clean front of motor. Replace belts and tensioner. Button up job. Rescan . only 1 code remaining. Print data. Off to car wash to blast off oil. Engine is leaking oil ???...notice oil was blown out from filler cap. ?? Get a new cap and get it resealed. Drive home. Oil leak resolved. The oil leaking was coming from crank seal and getting pressurised? Note this a turbo cruise 1.4, as a reminder to myself. I check timing chains. They are tight. Repairs took me about 6 hours. Even with parts running. Ivan thank you for teaching me to read codes, print data. Power and ground Regiment. Because I followed your steps. The car does not stumble or shake no mo. I fixed it. 👍 as Mr O says. I can fix it.
Wondering.... since my cruise control is not engaging AND my air bag red light is blinking now, probably the Clock Spring needs replaced - for my 2012 Nissan Versa SV 1.6L. I already replaced the cruise control switch under the brake pedal. What do you think?
Nice diagnosis, now I understand how you diag first before filming as you know where things are so quick during filming! I kept wondering about that lol. Haha! Wow, wrong part? That's unusual! Even if it's based off the VIN? Glad Ken is happy camper! Getting his truck all fixed up! Great video! Many thumbs up!!
Another great repair and diag. Thanks for bringing us along. I was just thinking, you should create a Playlist of all the videos that include your pressure transducer. It may serve as a good selling point if people can easily find those videos.
I have a 2011 equator also and when push cruise control button the cruise light comes on but the set light on dash starts flashing and cruise will not engage. You think I have the same problem?
I don't usually comment but when I do it matters. Jk your diagnosis was so perfect I had to tell you & give you a thumbs up. Can you tell me what tools you used and how did you find the diagram. I understood everything you said and made soo much sense I really appreciate it. Keep up the good up.
I wonder if that clockspring has the contact wipers. Thats 90's technology. Modern cars, 2000 or so and up have a 15 foot ribbon with a stationary plug in the column, and the plug on the wheel moves with the wheel. Its just a long coiled up ribbon in a housing. If you disconnect the steering shaft and spin it too far it will break it..
hi ivan in the uk nissan don t deal with nissan elgrand a grey import so went on ebay looked at the pictures to match pin outs and it worked perfect i have done about ten different vehicles no faults what i found nissan to save money in the clockspring use a bypass system which rolls the ribbon about two foot long around a pin and work hardens the copper tracks and fractures . the old ribbons six foot long which wound and unwound lasts . this new type has limited life
Things were so much simpler before they threw all switches on the wheel. My mom had a 1997 Chevy Lumina with cruise on the turn signal lever, cruise stop working, all it took was replace turn signal lever with cruise switch, 50.00 from local parts store.
Question to you Ivan. Did you even test the horn during your diagnostic? And to answer anyone's question regarding should you or shouldn't you disconnect the battery during airbag service? Technically, yes. You should disconnect the battery during any srs service. But the fact is, the srs module is not active while the key is in the off position. So, it is safe to work on while the key stays off. Once you disconnect anything in the srs system and then turn the key on, the system will set a code for that component and in turn, disable the srs system. In most cases, you will need a scan tool to be able to clear the code/s after the work is complete.
When working hot, an airbag deployment would be a lot worse than a blown fuse. It would be interesting to see a clip where someone tries to blow an airbag using the power from a horn relay circuit.
If that clock spring is essentially a typical potentiometer wiper (like, for example, old time radio volume controls) and it hasn't been used for a while, the contacts can get slightly "scaley" sometimes it could could be made to work again just by using the crap out of it (e.g. lift the front wheels and just keep flipping the steering wheel back and forth full lock-to-lock). Of course, also if you can spray some contact cleaner in there that could help. It would be neat if you could do a post-mortem on the part.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics sometimes those can be soldered. Just scrape the coating off with an exacto-knife, solder normally, then swipe the iron parallel to the conductors to make a paper thin solder coat, put a little clear lacquer on there (e.g. nail polish) and good to go.
Take a look at the XTool A30. I just picked one up from Amazon and it's awesome. It has bi-directional actuator functions. As for the TPMS, it'll read, but the next model up, the A30D can program. Best part, you don't have to pay for subscriptions (like the Thinktool). I'm probably going to return the A30 and get the A30D for more functions for $30 more.
The clock spring is the round black unit that sits on top of the part you're changing (you called it the steering angle position sensor}......The rest is the multi function switch....Even if the first part had the right pin out it would not have repaired the problem as the connection for the horn and airbag go through the clock spring.
Great video Ivan, I was hoping to see Bonus Footage where you disassemble the clock spring and find what went bad. I didn't notice anything with pulling the fuse for air bags or disconnecting the battery. I always thought there is a chance of blowing a bag by connecting/disconnecting with power.
Ivan, Great video and fix - thank you! I am very surprised that you did not disconnect the battery before you removed the airbag module. I thought that was SOP for all makes/models. BTW there should be no 'wipers' inside a clockspring. Also who pays for the extra time you spent since the dealer sold you the wrong part the first time? Paul (in MA)
If something goes wrong, Ivan would be the first to know. I'd love to see him do everything possible to stay safe. I need someone to keep my old hoopties running!
My dad had a Mazda B3000. It's a Ford Ranger with slightly different body panels. The Mazda dealer never had any parts in stock for it and the Ford dealer didn't want to be bothered with parts, even with the VIN. I'll never buy a rebranded vehicle.
When I changed the clock spring on a 2008 Nissan, they had two part numbers for that car. I went to the yard and got one from the same exact year. It was good and not too long after that an idiot hit us when he tried making a left in front of me. Needless to say all air bags worked as they should. So that seems to be a common Nissan issue. I had never seen that Suzuki model. Very interesting.
Years ago I bought an old 1990 Explore which came with the strangest cruise control problem. When you press SET the truck would increase speed 40mph. And the truck would floor it when you hit SET so the first few times it was startling. I finally figgered it out & I would roll down the interstate ramp at 25mph THEN hit the SET. I tinkered with repairing it but never could SO I disabled the cc when I sold it & told the new owner it was DANGEROUS. !
or, just keep it simple? unless you have far too much junk(tools for many fields/trades) overall and cannot fit a vehicle in, let alone have space to repair them! (my current issue), but alas a 40 x 80 pole building would quickly be cluttered up and id be out of space again. I need to pick one trade of work and focus on that, but I get bored of the same thing daily and have extreme dislike for working at the same place day after day, week's, month's, years( not for me)
Looks like that Body Combination Switch P/N 25567-EA000 is for 2005-2006 models only. I realize now what you were trying to do. Got to give you credit trying to save the customer $$$. You'd think the parts counter person would be able to inform you the part wasn't interchangeable for a 2011. I think this is what happened anyway. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Suzuki sells the Nissan Titan with "Suzuki Equator" badges. Kind of like Pontiac Vibe was really a Toyota Matrix. And Toyota Yaris was really a Mazda 2
It's terrible working on plastic involved jobs in that cold of weather. Parts tend to be brittle as heck when that cold. Too bad on the part replacement match mainly because the parts guy should have known the first part wouldn't fit simply from experience. All in all however, $300 isn't so bad although that part is way overpriced. Better now to do part replacements as it won't be much longer and new OEM parts at the dealerships will not be available due to age. Any plans to keep the vehicle for years should include a trip to the dealer to get parts they will likely need in the future to avoid those kinds of availability problems.
Suzuki owner bonus feedback: Thanks again for getting me back in the road. I didn't mind paying the extra cost for the Nissan OEM part. Safety was a major part of the decision. I am a happy camper!
I hope I can speak for most when the saying is "no new is good new". I want to hear both!
I’m a mechanic and have a car with this code. I don’t really do this for a living do UA-cam school is a great tool and I must say young man your video was very educational I have a degree in electronics engineering that has been worth its weight in gold . You know your stuff that’s for sure. Thank you for the lesson
IVAN,
THE ENTIRE AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICANS WATCHING YOUR STUDY CASES ARE GETTING DIRECT DETAIL AND ACCURATE, SIMPLIFIED, TOP OF LINE DETAIL APPROACH TO DO THEIR JOB
IN A VERY PROFESSIONAL MANNER.
YOU MADE THE OWNER OR THE CUSTOMER FOR LIFE. YOU ARE EXAMPLE TO HUMAINTY. ADDITIONALLY, YOU PROOFED YOUR CAPABILITY BEYOUND A REASONABLE DOUDT. YOU ARE THE BEST.
THANK YOU, SIR.
Thank you for the kind words, Sam! Honesty goes a long way!
Ivan- I enjoy your videos, especially because of your diligence to dig down to the exact cause of a problem and not just take an educated guess. Off the subject, your wife must be very understanding of your passion to help people with diagnostic repairs by sacrificing her garage space so you can continue to do what you do. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for mentioning the time spent on reading and research, I have experienced past employers give me dirty looks and make negative comments as if I was stealing money from them when I would be reading theory of operation before going near the vehicle to be diagnosed.
There is some kind of stupidity with lots of shop owners that tell their techs if it takes more than twenty minutes to diagnose a problem, they are incompetent .
Good reply - that's spot on.
I think I've seen your name on the Iatn.
You don't need to work for a holes like that.
@@shawnbauman5463 Which is exactly why I retired in 2020 @ 62. Haven't touched a vehicle since. Burnt-out isn't a strong enough word. Took my tiny Social Security check, bought some more kitchen hardware so can cook for myself. Drove 2100 miles last year. 2100 total miles. Last filled my gas tank in Sept 2021. Have 1/4 tank left. I LOVE IT! Wearing out TV & internet! But also single with no children. ZERO RESPONSIBILTY is what I always wanted. Last shop was @ 30hr with 40 hour guarantee. Just couldn't stand the stupidity of management.
Just saw a cartoon that reminded me of your many unexpected diags. The cartoon shows a 'mechanic' with a car torn down into a thousand pieces and the caption reads, "Turns out it was a marble in the ashtray"
Excellent tutorial Ivan. Getting the incorrect part is always a hassle but you did the right thing by going OEM for the reasons you mentioned. I hope your extended family remains safe.
Ivan, I was hoping it was just a fuse. Obviously, way beyond that. Excellent video delineating the challenges of modern day automobiles. I think you're going to be in business for a very long time. Thanks for Sharing!
When people drive hours to see him, i guess there isn't much else to say.
The legend of Pine Hollow fixes it again 👌
You just educated me on my Xterra that I've been trying to fix this code. The part you said in this video as the position sensor, is what I thought was the clock spring. Ugh, I changed that position sensor twice (yes junk yard parts) hoping I would get one that worked. Now from your video I realized I was changing the wrong part. Back to the junk yard. I'll update if that works
Direct to the point diagnosis and fix Ivan! Thanks for taking us along. Cheers!
New viewer here. And I did subscribe also. Thanks 4 being an advocate 4 the working man. We work our a-s off to make $ and buy vehicles. But then when they break down, your on your own.
You Sir do a great service. 5 years and no cold weather start! Are you freaking kidding me! 5 years! I don't know what your fees are, but at least the customer knows you are an honest man.
I am very happy to stumble on to your channel.
A Vietnan Combat Veteran (in Florida) who enjoys the heck out of your videos. Thank you Sir!
Ivan, there are no contacts in a clockspring to clean. It is actually ribbon cables that are coiled up like a clock spring and they wrap tighter in one direction and unwrap in the other. That is why you don’t want to turn them when they are removed if you plan to reinstall.
Yeah thats what i was thinking. I used to do Transmissions, and half the time on FWD cars you pull the subframe with the rack, and the steering column is freeballing. I have (in my early career) broken a clockspring by letting the steering wheel spin (Ford Contour). After the first one i started putting a bungee on the wheel and trapping it in the door. It no turn no more. Never happened again. I have torn clocksprings apart and thats how i know about the ribbon.
Great job Ivan! Taking the vehicle to you and guys that do quality work! I would paid twice as much. My time is worth something. Having to find a ride or live far away from a dealership whatever the circumstance. Peace of mind that job was done right the first time that's worth a lot!
Nice video. I know you are teaching with those videos and try to show and explain how the system works. You could take a quick guess at the clock spring and get lucky by hooking up a bidirectional scan tool and turning the wheel while watching data pids. I enjoy your logical and straight forward approaches.
He will be back. Something else will give up the ghost soon. I'm betting on the alternator. We should have a contest to see who guesses right!
The winner gets to pay my repair bill. Or maybe you can start a Go-Fund-Me on my behalf... 😂
Great job! We need more like you in this world.
good job ,yes there is always research before doing job and time getting for part
I do the same Ivan. Save data before I attempt to diagnosis. I print a copy for the customer and know. These are codes and stored codes. And I ask what other items do you need fixed? I fix what they want fixed. Rescan and test drive.
Ivan, a safety measure is to disconnect the battery when you work with airbags (it can blew up). Great video btw.
I was thinking the same thing. Airbags are finicky rascals.
Eric, excellent repair. Years ago, I was always told to disconnect the Battery as Safety Precaution when working with Air Bags. Does this still apply today?
Thank you! But I am not Eric haha
Yes you probably should to be on the absolute best side of safety.
I’m not Eric either
Ivan, I love watching your videos. I always learn something new in every video you produce. I don't work on vehicles for a living, but I perform maintenance on my vehicles. I have seen some videos where you work on exact vehicles I have, with similar problems and those videos help send me down a new path. Thank you, and please keep up the excellent work.
I've always questioned the need to disconnect the battery when unplugging an airbag since those yellow connectors are designed to short the airbag signal wires on the airbag side, thereby eliminating any chance of a voltage bias. I noticed you did not disconnect the battery (dashboard was still alive). What's your rational/thoughts/justification on this?
I also want to know ... what is really necessary?
For a DIY some scanners cannot clear SRS codes and unplugging any airbag module will hard set an SRS code. Some cars auto clear, some hard fault and need a better scanner to clear them. I replaced my seat belt connector and the annoying seat belt dinger went away along with the fasten belt indicator but hard set an SRS code I haven't cared to have cleared. I have other issues with the K-Line comm in a MK4 volkswagen not allowing me to connect a scan tool to the DLC and just gave up. At least I didn't have an annoying beeper telling me to put my seat belt on, but the SRS light is permanently on now.
Well, you right RJM. There are many ways to do the same thing but According to Nissan Repair Manual you should follow Precautions for SRS “AIR BAG”: Before servicing the SRS, turn ignition switch OFF, disconnect both battery cables and wait at least 3 minutes. For approximately 3 minutes after the cables are removed, it is still possible for the air bag and seat belt pre-tensioner to deploy. Therefore, do not work on any SRS connectors or wires until at least 3 minutes have passed. I would definitely follow the manual, not taking the change. Better be good than sorry.
Do you recommend buying from rock auto
I had windshield wiper issues for a long time and then my clock spring broke and wasn't shutting off my turn signals on my 2005 Dodge Magnum. So, I replaced the multi-function switch and the clock spring. Afterwards, I had a BAS light on the dash. Finally, I found a video that showed that the "collar" or housing around the steering column had to be pulled towards the steering wheel and retightened to get rid of that light. Just thought I would pass the experience on.
You need scanner to reset the steering sensor angle? That is silly from the maker.
Reasonable designs just asks the driver to turn the wheel from limit to limit and viola, the sensor is calibrated, no scanner, nor even any service techjician needed... Worked that way at least with PSA and VAG, did not meet any other that needed steering reset yet... True, some did not mention it explicitly (on the dashboard display), but when I tried it anyway (it became my habit when having to mess up with the battery; it has to see the movement over the whole range), it calibrates itself and the yellow steering warning light goes off...
Hi Ivan, just started a renewed interest in your videos since I'm taking the winter off from work, truly impressed with how you make diagnosis look so simple, I guess if the dealers can't do it, you find away, stay warm up there......k....Tulsa
Love the straightforward diagnostic tutorial. I quite literally did the same diag on a 2007 Titan the other day. Same thing - clockspring.
Great job on the diagnose, on parts I know the feeling even when you get a dealer part and they go off your Vin and it looks the same but it's not!... then they say, oh that part is going to take three days!.. now you have an upset customer who needs the car for work... then they say I should have taking my car to the dealer!... oh we'll it is what it is I guess. Thanks for your videos and your hard work stay strong.
They couldn't even go off the VIN because it's a "Suzuki" haha
Hi Ivan clock spring can be repaired usually traces broken with copper wire and some soldering you can fix it I have done it more than once but in my car not others :)
Hi saed, unfortunately that is not the case for the frontier, i had replaced mine several times and its not fixable, its a thin ribbon cable that makes a spiral form around the steering column, when it goes bad, it gets wrinkled pretty bad and there's no hope in fixing it. And me having replaced it several times proves that getting the cheap aftermarket substitute is a bad idea
I don’t have a S… but damn just stayed for the class…. New follower here 🔥🔥
Don't know if it will apply to any other vehicles... I have a 2004 silverado that lost the use of cruise control... BOTH rear brake lights had burned out... Replaced the bulbs and it has worked fine for the last 5 years... Found the idea on some forums...
Great Job and Diag. my friend.
Thanks Bill! How is the Astra running?
Fantastic job boss ! Remember if you can do it we can bring it to you lol !!!
Evening Ivan.
Yesterday evening my grand daughter stop for a visit. 😊.
My daughter says. Can you diagnosis her 14 Cruise 1.4 after work?. I said no. In the morning after breakfast.
So I drove home. She pulled into my Shade tree carport.😄. Got my scanner talking to da car. Lots of codes. Take a pre repair scan and print. Next I clear the codes. Now it's only a few.
O2 sensor
Bad oil leak all over.
1 / 2 Plug misfire codes.
Map sensor
Mass air flow seems high?
Belt tensioner making a racket.
Serpentine belt soaked in oil. Feels like a rubber band.
Pull cover for coil pack. Sparkees soaked in oil from bad valve cover.
Sparkees boots oil soaked and causing misfire.
Pull mass air flow. Clean mass air flow. Clean connectors with electrical cleaner.
Off to parts store. Gather parts needed. Bought parts in case I need it.
Pull valve cover. Torn gasket and cracked.
Clean sparkees and blow out junk.
Reinstall.
Take car for a toot. O2 sensor dead?
Take reads. All good from ECM. Pull o2 sensor and replace.
Pull map sensor and replace after power and grounds check.
Test drive again. O2 sensor is working good and map sensor is looking good.
Rescan. All is good except for busted window regulator . Code states regulator needs cal.
Onto the oil leak. Looks like exon Valdez under car. Pull crank seal and replace. Clean front of motor. Replace belts and tensioner. Button up job. Rescan . only 1 code remaining. Print data.
Off to car wash to blast off oil.
Engine is leaking oil ???...notice oil was blown out from filler cap. ?? Get a new cap and get it resealed. Drive home. Oil leak resolved. The oil leaking was coming from crank seal and getting pressurised?
Note this a turbo cruise 1.4, as a reminder to myself. I check timing chains. They are tight.
Repairs took me about 6 hours. Even with parts running.
Ivan thank you for teaching me to read codes, print data. Power and ground Regiment.
Because I followed your steps. The car does not stumble or shake no mo. I fixed it. 👍 as Mr O says. I can fix it.
Wondering.... since my cruise control is not engaging AND my air bag red light is blinking now, probably the Clock Spring needs replaced - for my 2012 Nissan Versa SV 1.6L. I already replaced the cruise control switch under the brake pedal. What do you think?
Nissan really is the Dodge of Japanese auto makers.
I sure miss the days when it was either a blown fuse or a faulty brake light switch.🤒
Nice diagnosis, now I understand how you diag first before filming as you know where things are so quick during filming! I kept wondering about that lol. Haha! Wow, wrong part? That's unusual! Even if it's based off the VIN? Glad Ken is happy camper! Getting his truck all fixed up! Great video! Many thumbs up!!
Another great repair and diag. Thanks for bringing us along. I was just thinking, you should create a Playlist of all the videos that include your pressure transducer. It may serve as a good selling point if people can easily find those videos.
I have a 2011 equator also and when push cruise control button the cruise light comes on but the set light on dash starts flashing and cruise will not engage. You think I have the same problem?
The “fast forward” sequence during the clockspring removal gave me vertigo.
Well done Ivan, great diag as always! You make it look easy :), I am sure you have earned a long term client now.
Think tool pros
Excellence 👍👍👍👍
I don't usually comment but when I do it matters. Jk your diagnosis was so perfect I had to tell you & give you a thumbs up. Can you tell me what tools you used and how did you find the diagram. I understood everything you said and made soo much sense I really appreciate it. Keep up the good up.
I wonder if that clockspring has the contact wipers. Thats 90's technology. Modern cars, 2000 or so and up have a 15 foot ribbon with a stationary plug in the column, and the plug on the wheel moves with the wheel. Its just a long coiled up ribbon in a housing. If you disconnect the steering shaft and spin it too far it will break it..
👍 love the details.. great class... IVAN...
hi ivan in the uk nissan don t deal with nissan elgrand a grey import so went on ebay looked at the pictures to match pin outs and it worked perfect i have done about ten different vehicles no faults what i found nissan to save money in the clockspring use a bypass system which rolls the ribbon about two foot long around a pin and work hardens the copper tracks and fractures . the old ribbons six foot long which wound and unwound lasts . this new type has limited life
Things were so much simpler before they threw all switches on the wheel. My mom had a 1997 Chevy Lumina with cruise on the turn signal lever, cruise stop working, all it took was replace turn signal lever with cruise switch, 50.00 from local parts store.
I actually prefer the cruise control on a stalk...no need to look at which button you are pressing lol
Question to you Ivan. Did you even test the horn during your diagnostic? And to answer anyone's question regarding should you or shouldn't you disconnect the battery during airbag service? Technically, yes. You should disconnect the battery during any srs service. But the fact is, the srs module is not active while the key is in the off position. So, it is safe to work on while the key stays off. Once you disconnect anything in the srs system and then turn the key on, the system will set a code for that component and in turn, disable the srs system. In most cases, you will need a scan tool to be able to clear the code/s after the work is complete.
When working hot, an airbag deployment would be a lot worse than a blown fuse. It would be interesting to see a clip where someone tries to blow an airbag using the power from a horn relay circuit.
A sharp turn of the steering wheel to turn on the cruise. I paid good money for that option.
Cool! If my CC ever goes out while I'm going 80 mph, will try yanking to the right real quick! 😂
Great stuff Ivan! Love this channel.
Why did you not disconnect the vehicles battery and let the SRS capacitors discharge? Would of been kinda sad if that bag went off in your face.
Also would have made for a viral video...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics insert scanner Danner video here.....
Get it Ivan!!! Nice work.
If that clock spring is essentially a typical potentiometer wiper (like, for example, old time radio volume controls) and it hasn't been used for a while, the contacts can get slightly "scaley" sometimes it could could be made to work again just by using the crap out of it (e.g. lift the front wheels and just keep flipping the steering wheel back and forth full lock-to-lock).
Of course, also if you can spray some contact cleaner in there that could help.
It would be neat if you could do a post-mortem on the part.
Actually I think it's a ribbon cable that has been flexed one too many times haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics sometimes those can be soldered. Just scrape the coating off with an exacto-knife, solder normally, then swipe the iron parallel to the conductors to make a paper thin solder coat, put a little clear lacquer on there (e.g. nail polish) and good to go.
@@hooptierescue2540 I think this has more to do with the Copper wires' fatigue limit.
Awesome Video. Straight to the point and very clearly explained 👌🏼. Thank You
I was really surprised the part was even available for that vehicle, Suzuki parts ain't exactly Chevrolet parts but I guess it is Nissan..Great job!
how many miles does the Nissan 1917 get to a gallon
Ivan is a genius. This field of work is very difficult. How do you charge the customer?
Not enough. Customers truly don't appreciate techs enough.
It makes so much sense to fix up vehicle's in today's world, good work
Nice work on the Nissan Ivan, as always! 👍
always a pleasure to watch your videos, thank you
Every clock spring I have worked on didn’t have wipers or contacts just solid wire connections and the wires break
Good diagnosis and repair.
Do you use a "Thinktool" diagnostic tool? If so what do you think of that tool and can you do TPMS diag and repair?
Take a look at the XTool A30. I just picked one up from Amazon and it's awesome. It has bi-directional actuator functions. As for the TPMS, it'll read, but the next model up, the A30D can program. Best part, you don't have to pay for subscriptions (like the Thinktool). I'm probably going to return the A30 and get the A30D for more functions for $30 more.
So it does not have a fuse?
My cruise control went out. Changed the switch and that didnt work. Im guessing its the clock spring
The clock spring is the round black unit that sits on top of the part you're changing (you called it the steering angle position sensor}......The rest is the multi function switch....Even if the first part had the right pin out it would not have repaired the problem as the connection for the horn and airbag go through the clock spring.
Nope, that was the steering angle position sensor, TRUST ME xD
Great video Ivan, I was hoping to see Bonus Footage where you disassemble the clock spring and find what went bad. I didn't notice anything with pulling the fuse for air bags or disconnecting the battery. I always thought there is a chance of blowing a bag by connecting/disconnecting with power.
What is the name and model of your scanner?
Ivan,
Great video and fix - thank you! I am very surprised that you did not disconnect the battery before you removed the airbag module. I thought that was SOP for all makes/models.
BTW there should be no 'wipers' inside a clockspring.
Also who pays for the extra time you spent since the dealer sold you the wrong part the first time?
Paul (in MA)
Have a blessed day!
Question do you sell your parts at your cost only.
Ivan you didn’t disconnect the battery while messing with the airbag lmao
I was surprised by this also.
If something goes wrong, Ivan would be the first to know. I'd love to see him do everything possible to stay safe. I need someone to keep my old hoopties running!
@@GregoryGlessnerViolin to remove your airbag you just push really hard and *boom*
Ivan ! short and down to business keep it like that verigood thecnic
Had a buddy put in LED brake lights, it knocked out his cruise control. Had to put ballast in to get the amperage right for the computer.
Another great diag/fix Ivan!
You didnt disconnected the battery before removing the air bag connector ? ??????????????????????
My dad had a Mazda B3000. It's a Ford Ranger with slightly different body panels. The Mazda dealer never had any parts in stock for it and the Ford dealer didn't want to be bothered with parts, even with the VIN. I'll never buy a rebranded vehicle.
Very good Compadre
clock spring contacts?
Please open the old clock spring to see if they can be fixed!!!
Once again...Well impressed, you sir are a genius.
Why do they call it work support instead of hot or special functions
When I changed the clock spring on a 2008 Nissan, they had two part numbers for that car. I went to the yard and got one from the same exact year. It was good and not too long after that an idiot hit us when he tried making a left in front of me. Needless to say all air bags worked as they should. So that seems to be a common Nissan issue. I had never seen that Suzuki model. Very interesting.
Good job as always
Great job 😃
Years ago I bought an old 1990 Explore which came
with the strangest cruise control problem. When you
press SET the truck would increase speed 40mph.
And the truck would floor it when you hit SET so the
first few times it was startling. I finally figgered it out & I
would roll down the interstate ramp at 25mph THEN
hit the SET. I tinkered with repairing it but never could
SO I disabled the cc when I sold it & told the new owner
it was DANGEROUS.
!
exselentes dianostic amigo bueno
You are true wizard. Love your videos.
When reattaching the steering wheel (16:08), you should always tighten to factory spec.
You don't want a loose nut behind the wheel.
Isn't it about time you get a larger garage?
or, just keep it simple? unless you have far too much junk(tools for many fields/trades) overall and cannot fit a vehicle in, let alone have space to repair them! (my current issue), but alas a 40 x 80 pole building would quickly be cluttered up and id be out of space again.
I need to pick one trade of work and focus on that, but I get bored of the same thing daily and have extreme dislike for working at the same place day after day, week's, month's, years( not for me)
Great job
I said at least three times during the vid “check the horn and any other switches on the wheel”. You must have heard me at the end.
Another great fix Ivan but I was like ...no! dont fast forward, lol! It's all good!
To me the nuts and bolts part is boring haha
ivan, will your Thinktool program the TCM on this vehicle?
Looks like that Body Combination Switch P/N 25567-EA000 is for 2005-2006 models only. I realize now what you were trying to do. Got to give you credit trying to save the customer $$$. You'd think the parts counter person would be able to inform you the part wasn't interchangeable for a 2011. I think this is what happened anyway. Correct me if I'm wrong.
They couldn't look anything up by VIN since it was a "Suzuki" lol
I really enjoyed this one!
Is this the Nissan in the title, or the Suzuki in the shop?
Confusion…
Suzuki sells the Nissan Titan with "Suzuki Equator" badges. Kind of like Pontiac Vibe was really a Toyota Matrix. And Toyota Yaris was really a Mazda 2
It's terrible working on plastic involved jobs in that cold of weather. Parts tend to be brittle as heck when that cold. Too bad on the part replacement match mainly because the parts guy should have known the first part wouldn't fit simply from experience. All in all however, $300 isn't so bad although that part is way overpriced. Better now to do part replacements as it won't be much longer and new OEM parts at the dealerships will not be available due to age. Any plans to keep the vehicle for years should include a trip to the dealer to get parts they will likely need in the future to avoid those kinds of availability problems.