This is the best videos thank you so much. Between the factory service manual Joey's poster in your videos I'm just completely covered for this engine build. Thanks again 🍻
Wonderful; makes me "think" I can do my own.... I like the composition and lighting of the videos. If you can manually adjust your aperture, you should. With enough lighting you should use a higher aperture (like f: 11 to 16) for a greater depth of field; then, turn off auto-focus. This works best for stationary cameras as you have here and a subject that doesn't move too much either. Keep it up, love the videos.
Thanks for the tips. I've just started using my good camera for videos. I'm decent at pics with it but I'm still working on video. I've been leaving it in Auto for video. I'll try it in manual and see what I can do.
After hearing the horror stories about this particular process, it looks more like a labor of patience and care, I'm no expert but I can do most thing as long as I have a shop manual or a clear guide like this series of vids, this was the thing holding me back from a 80 series, guess I should look for one now!
It really is just a whole lot of steps. I also don't think the 1fz blows head gaskets as often as the Internet makes it seem. Over the last 15 years I've only done a handful that we're actually popped.
I'm having trouble purchasing assembly lube locally. Is there any alternative (using the same camshafts and bearings that were in before) like motor oil I could use because it's not a new cam?
I'm pretty sure the manual actually lists using motor oil. I've always liked the added security of using assembly lube so I've never tried it that way.
Most of the time we use a factory gasket for ease of use. We use the Cometic gasket on turbo and supercharged trucks for some extra security. There are more machining rules to follow when using the metal gaskets. There's more to check surface finish wise to make sure they seal well.
Awesome video Ryan! I had a radiator boil over into reservoir above 6000 ft a few weeks ago on a trip with the family. I thought for sure head gasket but I sent my oil into Blackstone zero water and zero coolant in oil. Also amazing compression and block tested, she stayed bright blue. Then I though maybe climbing the hills outside of Tahoe on 80 pushed gasses into coolant but the block tester showed no gas in the coolant. Any thoughts on this? After this event I noticed a tiny bit of coolant on the freeze plug above the block drain and upon cleaning a tiny hairline crack below the freeze plug. Man..... Right? Bad radiator cap caused high pressure and a tiny bit of coolant squeezed out? Starting to fail head gasket and only acted up under heavy load climbing hills on the highway at high rpm? so my question is I'm thinking about doing the head gasket as a preventative item. I've owned this 1997 fzj80 for 1 year I put about 250 hours into her and she's a Wheeling machine / daily driver. My question is what would have caused the boil over into radiator reservoir at altitude? I ran this by Joey and that resulted in ordering a new radiator cap from him. I see on mud that stress crack is common and sometimes they do nothing and go nowhere. Thanks for any input I'm thinking about just ordering a factory short and sticking it in the garage until the time comes. I just don't want to be with the family in the middle of nowhere. Since the event at altitude zero coolant has leaked and everything seems normal
I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure things boil more easily at altitude. The radiator cap "should" hold constant pressure in the system but if it was bad maybe the altitude was the cause. If it's been fine since and no loss of coolant I'd just change the cap and see how it does.
@@OTRAMM thanks! I can find the number from that, just was curious on if you went Supra or Opel. No issues with thread engagement? I’m currently rebuilding my motor and was going to use the stock bolts but the Supra ones are cheaper. Think it’s fine with a stock head gasket or should I do cometic since I’m already there. Head and block are both resurfaced at an RA that will work with a cometic.
@@RM_Garage the supra ones don't bottom in the block but go as far as the stock bolts did. I'd use a factory gasket unless you plan to turbo or super charge. Then I'd go cometic.
The machine shop checks valve sealing for us. Out of the dozens of heads we've done, only one needed valve work. And that was due to improper shimming on a prior repair. They also change the valve stem seals for us since they've got a more efficient machine fur them.
Maybe a dumb question, but was the engine top dead center before you installed your camshafts? I marked everything when I took the cams out (one cam had to be replaced) but now I am not sure the camshafts were installed at correct timing. Now I am not sure how to put it back together to the correct placement of the camshafts when the engine is TDC. Thanks!
Tried this on my dad's 100 series with the same engine (without a distributor) think we reinstalled the cams incorrectly (180 degrees out). Is our only option removal and reinstallation? The car struggles to start, if at all, but runs perfectly once it does. Thanks!
@@OTRAMM greatly appreciate the reply! On a second inspection, seems we broke a temperature sensor connector wire. Soldered it back up and car runs perfectly again! Thanks again :)
@@OTRAMM Thank you for the reply. I appreciate your time! Sorry, I should have been more specific... When I recieved my head from the machine shop, the cams were not installed. How do I determine which cam goes the the exhaust side and which goes to the intake side? Thanks again!
@Fzj8097 ah gotcha. The exhaust cam is the one with the spring loaded gear that you put the lock bolt in on removal. The intake is the one that the timing chain sprocket bolts to.
Great videos, have a question for you, I just checked my oil today and noticed a drop of water (literally)in the dip stick, checked the oil cap and also had some milky drops. it is time for a head gasket? or can it be the oil cooler? it is a lx450 97. Thank you.
It could also be just a change in temperature and humidity. I wouldn't be too worried about a head gasket unless you're mysteriously losing coolant or have a misfire.
@OTRAMM it is colder than normal with rain . No misfires, took the first 2 plugs and were extremely carbon coated. But no smoke or gas smell. Truck has 168k . Will flush radiator, was going to do my hoses anyways, do an oil and filter and will see. No temperature change on gage, oil pressure normal. Thank you for taking the time.
Some you can still get from Toyota as paper manuals. We subscribe to Toyota tech info online to have access to most all of them. Some of the really old ones we've bought off of eBay.
This truck was getting built with a turbo charger in mind. The metal gaskets tend to hold up better to boost than the factory gasket. We use a factory gasket most of the time
well here i am again begging advise. just installed head on 94 lc. the tightening sequence bolt 6 ended getting torqued almost 1/4 turn or 90 degrees fast correct setting; i guess it felt too loose. seems like i heard a pop [like the sound of a torqued bolt snapping loose. didn't want to loosen it. i am hoping that i haven't cracked the head. do you think i should remove the head & send it back to machine shop to check for a crack. or untorque all bolts & re torque. or remove head & replace new head gasket. whatever i do i need to do it now while i easily can. i put a torque wrench set at 80 lbs on all bolts & all are torqued over 80. Advise please
That 1/4 turn is likely quite a bit of extra torque. While you aren't too far in to reassembly, I'd probably pull the head back off and replace the gasket just in case it over compressed. I doubt you cracked the head but it probably wouldn't hurt to have it checked.
@@OTRAMM that's what i was thinking, the hg was from toyota. i originally bought a head gasket set from stone company m, made in japan but elected to put the one from toyota. what is your opinion of the stone japanese gasket? it looked very much the same & of good quality, neither was stamped toyota. THANKS AGAIN
Hello friend, greetings from Panama, I want to buy a body of 80 series of 94, engine neck that they removed was a 1fz-fe I want to know you instead buy the same engine that had (1fz-fe) or you put an engine that I like it because of the fame it has (2jz-gte)?
just watched another video on u tube where the mechanic applied 5 coats of permatex spray copper gasket sealant to the head & block surfaces before insstalling the head gasket & placing the head & said that it was very important to do so. what do you think his reasoning might be be for this method. his video can be found under the name of AriR. he is doing the job with the engine in the vehicle. what do you think
That's a very old school trick for old head gaskets. I've never done that and wouldn't with modern gaskets. It the machine work is done properly there's no need for it. It can cause issues with the sealing properties of the gasket material.
your tutorials are more than helpful both in doing the job & understanding how this engine operates. thank you. i have a 94 LC that i really like that broke the timing chain so i'n doing the repairs including HG & for a moment i thought about installing the head without the machine work except for new valve seals & was thinking the copper sealant might work since the HG didn't blow. thanks again it's 150 miles to a machine shop but will be making a road trip this week to get it done right@@OTRAMM
@@OTRAMM had the head gasket done on my 94’ 80 and after being done it’s making a ticking sound . The mechanic said he can’t figure it out. It sounds like it’s coming from the top. Oil pressure and temp seem fine, but it sounds terrible. Thanks for responding
I used the 2JZ Supra kit ARP 203-4205. They're a bit short to bottom in the block but have plenty of thread engagement. I also looked at the Opel kit but they were special order from my supplier and need to be trimmed on two studs.
I wouldn't change them unless you're also changing the head gasket. Even if you do them one at a time you'd still be disturbing the gasket some. There's nothing inherently wrong with the factory bolts when torqued properly.
Great videos as always Ryan. It's probably just me...but in the videos with respect to the cams, I am sometimes confused about the 'dots' on the cams and terminology. There are single and double 'dots' on each cam which presents no problem when discussing a single cam. But when mated...I'm not always sure if you are saying 'two dots' (to mean two separate single dots) or the double dots. I do have the FSM and can consult it. But thought I'd mention this in case others find it unclear. Then again, it might just be me. Thanks again for the great information and instruction.
At 33:00 minutes he says our 2 dot marks are lined up in the center and we need to turn cams so our 1 dots marks are lined up in the center. I believe that will clarify for future watchers.
I've got an assortment. The 3/8" and 1/2" digital are Snap On. The 1/2' clicker is Matco, The 1/4" dial type is CDI, and the 3/4" monster is a Precision Instruments.
@@OTRAMM thank You mate ..... these films are great !!!! I got a question what is the PAIR RID VALVE on the 1993 ? My brother has 1997 that doesn’t have that but I’m looking to purchase 1993 that does hmm but the 1993 doesn’t have cat converter..... I’m curious if it will pass emissions..... just newbie here trying to figure this out before I purchase the 1993
That's the factory procedure for putting the cams back in. From what I've read the 1fz is a non interference motor. I've done upwards of 20 following the factory manual without issue.
As the owner of a 94 80 series, this has literally become one of my most watched UA-cam channels. 👍🏼 thank you.
Glad you're digging the videos😁
Me too
doing the head on my 96, along with a host of everything else. otramm has been a huge help.
The content in these videos are spot on and super helpful! Thanks a ton for making these.
Thank you soooo much for this. This is by far the best 1fzfe tutorial on youtube!
This is the best videos thank you so much.
Between the factory service manual Joey's poster in your videos I'm just completely covered for this engine build.
Thanks again 🍻
Best video of land cruiser on UA-cam , really informative I am learning from your videos man thanks for teaching us . .. 👍👌💪
I really like your videos you explain everything perfect.
Wonderful; makes me "think" I can do my own....
I like the composition and lighting of the videos. If you can manually adjust your aperture, you should. With enough lighting you should use a higher aperture (like f: 11 to 16) for a greater depth of field; then, turn off auto-focus. This works best for stationary cameras as you have here and a subject that doesn't move too much either. Keep it up, love the videos.
Thanks for the tips. I've just started using my good camera for videos. I'm decent at pics with it but I'm still working on video. I've been leaving it in Auto for video. I'll try it in manual and see what I can do.
After hearing the horror stories about this particular process, it looks more like a labor of patience and care, I'm no expert but I can do most thing as long as I have a shop manual or a clear guide like this series of vids, this was the thing holding me back from a 80 series, guess I should look for one now!
It really is just a whole lot of steps. I also don't think the 1fz blows head gaskets as often as the Internet makes it seem. Over the last 15 years I've only done a handful that we're actually popped.
That top view was really helpful, thanks.
11:19 would putting the clamp fasteners for the PHH facing towards the firwall make it more difficult when it's time to do it again?
great video!
Is like 5 different thickness on the head gasket. and from three to five layers... so how I know the correct gasket....?thanks for you help....
You need to talk to the machine shop. It depends on how much the machined off of the head.
I'm having trouble purchasing assembly lube locally. Is there any alternative (using the same camshafts and bearings that were in before) like motor oil I could use because it's not a new cam?
I'm pretty sure the manual actually lists using motor oil. I've always liked the added security of using assembly lube so I've never tried it that way.
Thank you for your response 🙂
You good man good look
what are the pros to using the all metal head gasket over a genuine Toyota one?
Most of the time we use a factory gasket for ease of use. We use the Cometic gasket on turbo and supercharged trucks for some extra security. There are more machining rules to follow when using the metal gaskets. There's more to check surface finish wise to make sure they seal well.
Awesome video Ryan!
I had a radiator boil over into reservoir above 6000 ft a few weeks ago on a trip with the family.
I thought for sure head gasket but I sent my oil into Blackstone zero water and zero coolant in oil. Also amazing compression and block tested, she stayed bright blue.
Then I though maybe climbing the hills outside of Tahoe on 80 pushed gasses into coolant but the block tester showed no gas in the coolant.
Any thoughts on this? After this event I noticed a tiny bit of coolant on the freeze plug above the block drain and upon cleaning a tiny hairline crack below the freeze plug.
Man..... Right? Bad radiator cap caused high pressure and a tiny bit of coolant squeezed out? Starting to fail head gasket and only acted up under heavy load climbing hills on the highway at high rpm?
so my question is I'm thinking about doing the head gasket as a preventative item. I've owned this 1997 fzj80 for 1 year I put about 250 hours into her and she's a Wheeling machine / daily driver.
My question is what would have caused the boil over into radiator reservoir at altitude? I ran this by Joey and that resulted in ordering a new radiator cap from him.
I see on mud that stress crack is common and sometimes they do nothing and go nowhere.
Thanks for any input I'm thinking about just ordering a factory short and sticking it in the garage until the time comes. I just don't want to be with the family in the middle of nowhere.
Since the event at altitude zero coolant has leaked and everything seems normal
I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure things boil more easily at altitude. The radiator cap "should" hold constant pressure in the system but if it was bad maybe the altitude was the cause. If it's been fine since and no loss of coolant I'd just change the cap and see how it does.
@@OTRAMM awesome! Thanks Ryan, I appreciate the exchange in thought and 2nd opinion on the cap.
I'll run up there again soon just to see
How do you keep all your bolts organized for quick identification and reassembly?
Part of it is having done it enough times to know what goes where, and part is bagging them by component and labeling them.
When I remove the exhaust cam I forgot to put the bot to hold the gear how can I put the bolt now?
Did you add oil to the cylinder perimeter in cylinders 2-5? It looks like it from the video but was not sure. Thanks!
I spray them with Seafoam deep creep to protect from surface rust while the head is off. It's really humid here so machined surfaces flash rust.
Which ARP studs? Have a part number?
I used ones for a 2jz supra. I don't have the part number anymore.
@@OTRAMM thanks! I can find the number from that, just was curious on if you went Supra or Opel. No issues with thread engagement?
I’m currently rebuilding my motor and was going to use the stock bolts but the Supra ones are cheaper. Think it’s fine with a stock head gasket or should I do cometic since I’m already there. Head and block are both resurfaced at an RA that will work with a cometic.
@@RM_Garage the supra ones don't bottom in the block but go as far as the stock bolts did. I'd use a factory gasket unless you plan to turbo or super charge. Then I'd go cometic.
I noticed there is no rebuilding of the valves prior to re-install. Is it not necessary ?
The machine shop checks valve sealing for us. Out of the dozens of heads we've done, only one needed valve work. And that was due to improper shimming on a prior repair. They also change the valve stem seals for us since they've got a more efficient machine fur them.
Maybe a dumb question, but was the engine top dead center before you installed your camshafts? I marked everything when I took the cams out (one cam had to be replaced) but now I am not sure the camshafts were installed at correct timing. Now I am not sure how to put it back together to the correct placement of the camshafts when the engine is TDC. Thanks!
Yep, the engine is at top dead center on cylinder one when the cams are reinstalled
Tried this on my dad's 100 series with the same engine (without a distributor) think we reinstalled the cams incorrectly (180 degrees out). Is our only option removal and reinstallation? The car struggles to start, if at all, but runs perfectly once it does. Thanks!
If the cams are indeed out of time the only solution is to pull them and re time them. I'd double check the timing though before pulling them.
@@OTRAMM greatly appreciate the reply! On a second inspection, seems we broke a temperature sensor connector wire. Soldered it back up and car runs perfectly again! Thanks again :)
@@kirstenbuhov4151 glad it was something easy!!
@@OTRAMM Btw all the way from Australia here, dad said we literally couldn't have done it without you!!
@@kirstenbuhov4151 awesome, glad the videos were helpful!
Cual es la luz de admisión y la de escape
Hi i forgot to put the lock bot on the exhaust gear ⚙️ what can I do now. Thanks!!
You'd have to follow the instructions in the factory manual to reassemble it. I've never had one apart.
How do I determine which cam is intake and and which is exhaust? I know this is probably a stupid question... but I don't know. Thank you!
The exhaust cam is on the side of the head with the exhaust manifold.
@@OTRAMM Thank you for the reply. I appreciate your time! Sorry, I should have been more specific... When I recieved my head from the machine shop, the cams were not installed. How do I determine which cam goes the the exhaust side and which goes to the intake side? Thanks again!
@Fzj8097 ah gotcha. The exhaust cam is the one with the spring loaded gear that you put the lock bolt in on removal. The intake is the one that the timing chain sprocket bolts to.
@@OTRAMM Thank you sir! I truly appreciate your time. Also, thank you for all the 80 series videos. They've been a tremendous help.
Great videos, have a question for you, I just checked my oil today and noticed a drop of water (literally)in the dip stick, checked the oil cap and also had some milky drops. it is time for a head gasket? or can it be the oil cooler? it is a lx450 97. Thank you.
It could also be just a change in temperature and humidity. I wouldn't be too worried about a head gasket unless you're mysteriously losing coolant or have a misfire.
@OTRAMM it is colder than normal with rain . No misfires, took the first 2 plugs and were extremely carbon coated. But no smoke or gas smell. Truck has 168k . Will flush radiator, was going to do my hoses anyways, do an oil and filter and will see. No temperature change on gage, oil pressure normal. Thank you for taking the time.
Hi thanks for the videos , but how can I get the manuals too for cars ... please
Some you can still get from Toyota as paper manuals. We subscribe to Toyota tech info online to have access to most all of them. Some of the really old ones we've bought off of eBay.
What is the reason for useing the metal head gasket?
This truck was getting built with a turbo charger in mind. The metal gaskets tend to hold up better to boost than the factory gasket. We use a factory gasket most of the time
well here i am again begging advise. just installed head on 94 lc. the tightening sequence bolt 6 ended getting torqued almost 1/4 turn or 90 degrees fast correct setting; i guess it felt too loose. seems like i heard a pop [like the sound of a torqued bolt snapping loose. didn't want to loosen it. i am hoping that i haven't cracked the head. do you think i should remove the head & send it back to machine shop to check for a crack. or untorque all bolts & re torque. or remove head & replace new head gasket. whatever i do i need to do it now while i easily can. i put a torque wrench set at 80 lbs on all bolts & all are torqued over 80. Advise please
That 1/4 turn is likely quite a bit of extra torque. While you aren't too far in to reassembly, I'd probably pull the head back off and replace the gasket just in case it over compressed. I doubt you cracked the head but it probably wouldn't hurt to have it checked.
also i may have not oiled the under side of bolt head, that may have been the popping sound
@@barkinliz not oiling under the bolt heads will also throw the torque off quite a bit. The specs are based on oiled threads and under the head.
@@OTRAMM that's what i was thinking, the hg was from toyota. i originally bought a head gasket set from stone company m, made in japan but elected to put the one from toyota. what is your opinion of the stone japanese gasket? it looked very much the same & of good quality, neither was stamped toyota. THANKS AGAIN
On gaskets and seals I only use Toyota. On turbo and supercharged applications I'll sometimes use Cometic, but that's rare.
Hello friend, greetings from Panama, I want to buy a body of 80 series of 94, engine neck that they removed was a 1fz-fe I want to know you instead buy the same engine that had (1fz-fe) or you put an engine that I like it because of the fame it has (2jz-gte)?
You didn't mention anything about the exhaust timing and how it needs to be pinned because it has a spring in it to stop rattling?
It gets installed during the disassembly video.
@@OTRAMM excellent thanks heaps for that.
Would using that copper spray be useful with a cometic gasket to help with electrolysis?
The cometic has a costing on it. They go on clean and dry to seal properly.
What is the ignition of this engine do you know inform me thanks
Stock Toyota distributor and coil
This engine is unnumbered you have the ignition order
just watched another video on u tube where the mechanic applied 5 coats of permatex spray copper gasket sealant to the head & block surfaces before insstalling the head gasket & placing the head & said that it was very important to do so. what do you think his reasoning might be be for this method. his video can be found under the name of AriR. he is doing the job with the engine in the vehicle. what do you think
That's a very old school trick for old head gaskets. I've never done that and wouldn't with modern gaskets. It the machine work is done properly there's no need for it. It can cause issues with the sealing properties of the gasket material.
your tutorials are more than helpful both in doing the job & understanding how this engine operates. thank you. i have a 94 LC that i really like that broke the timing chain so i'n doing the repairs including HG & for a moment i thought about installing the head without the machine work except for new valve seals & was thinking the copper sealant might work since the HG didn't blow. thanks again it's 150 miles to a machine shop but will be making a road trip this week to get it done right@@OTRAMM
Do we need to remove the engine. I have no room and would need to do this work with engine in situ
We usually do them in the truck.
How much does your machine shop charge you for head/valve job work?
It depends on what it needs, pressure test and deck is around 180. Full valve job is 350 or so I think.
@@OTRAMM
I paid $100 for deck and clean, then $650 for pressure test and complete valve grind and lash adjustment.
Hi, I'm using ARP head studs as well on my fzj80, would you go up to 80ft lb with toyota OEM head gasket?
I haven't used the studs with a factory gasket yet. I'd maybe call ARP and see what they recommend.
What could happen if you were to mix up the lifter buckets?
You'd have to reshim all of the valves.
@@OTRAMM had the head gasket done on my 94’ 80 and after being done it’s making a ticking sound . The mechanic said he can’t figure it out. It sounds like it’s coming from the top. Oil pressure and temp seem fine, but it sounds terrible. Thanks for responding
Olá qual a ordem de ignição desse motor?
No habla Espanol 😥
What is the part number for the arp studs??
I used the 2JZ Supra kit ARP 203-4205. They're a bit short to bottom in the block but have plenty of thread engagement. I also looked at the Opel kit but they were special order from my supplier and need to be trimmed on two studs.
Hi can I change to the ARP SUPRA studs safely with having to change the HG again after having used the TTY bolts? I hate the TTY bolts. Regards
I wouldn't change them unless you're also changing the head gasket. Even if you do them one at a time you'd still be disturbing the gasket some. There's nothing inherently wrong with the factory bolts when torqued properly.
Thank you
Great videos as always Ryan. It's probably just me...but in the videos with respect to the cams, I am sometimes confused about the 'dots' on the cams and terminology. There are single and double 'dots' on each cam which presents no problem when discussing a single cam. But when mated...I'm not always sure if you are saying 'two dots' (to mean two separate single dots) or the double dots. I do have the FSM and can consult it. But thought I'd mention this in case others find it unclear. Then again, it might just be me. Thanks again for the great information and instruction.
At 33:00 minutes he says our 2 dot marks are lined up in the center and we need to turn cams so our 1 dots marks are lined up in the center. I believe that will clarify for future watchers.
What brand of torque wrench do you use
I've got an assortment. The 3/8" and 1/2" digital are Snap On. The 1/2' clicker is Matco, The 1/4" dial type is CDI, and the 3/4" monster is a Precision Instruments.
Thanks, I really like your videos btw
If the switching valve is broken and cracked will that cause a rough idle?
Possibly if it's leaking vacuum
why attach the intake before bolting the head? does it not cause the head to be wobbly?
It's easier to get to everything if you do the lower intake first, and that's how the factory manual does it.
Which ARP head studs do you use for 1FZ-FE?
Supra 2jz you just don't run them all the way down since they're a bit short
How much shorter is the studs compaired to the oem headbolts?
looks like you linked the "4.7 Timing Belt Part 3" instead of "Checking Valve clearance 1FZ-FE"
I should probably fix that. Thanks
@@OTRAMM No problem. Love the videos! So informative!
Such a great video ..... thank You for this great info mate ...... out of curiosity how much this job would cost ..... Cheers
There's a bunch of variables but around 3k.
@@OTRAMM thank You mate ..... these films are great !!!! I got a question what is the PAIR RID VALVE on the 1993 ? My brother has 1997 that doesn’t have that but I’m looking to purchase 1993 that does hmm but the 1993 doesn’t have cat converter..... I’m curious if it will pass emissions..... just newbie here trying to figure this out before I purchase the 1993
The 93-94 had PAIR. They had cats as well. Emissions will depend on where you are and how the inspector feels.
You da man
i dont understand what you done...you push down the valve one and the piston one is up..it does bend the valve.
That's the factory procedure for putting the cams back in. From what I've read the 1fz is a non interference motor. I've done upwards of 20 following the factory manual without issue.
@@OTRAMM Non-interference is what I have read too.
♥♥♥
woohoo
first
land cruiser 450 engine
ok