Thanks a million for these videos, you walked me through the entire job on my 93. Seeing it done and hearing tips from guys who actually work on them is worth a thousand shop manuals. Your explanations are excellent, and the narration is relevant. My main pet peeves with other videos.
The torque value for the bolts holding the oil pump cover should be 8ft.lbs. So states volume 2, page LU-4 of the '97 1FZ-FE Repair Manual. Thanks much for the in depth vids, extremely helpful.
BTW, i found the torque spec for the oil pump cover screws, its in the toyota 1FZ/1FZFE RM321E shop manual, section "Engine -Lubrication System", "Oil pump cover x oil pump 10Nm / 105kgf-cm / 8 ft-lb "
Super informative video! I watched this and performed this today and everything went just fine. The best trick you mentioned was using a hammer to hammer in a #3 phillips-head. Got those oil pump screws out with no issue! I also bought a used crankshaft bolt holder tool off of Ebay and just realized now that it is the exact one that you're selling! I got that bolt off by using a long metal bar on top of the breaker bar. Very happy right now that I no longer have a massive oil leak. The bottom of the oil pump o ring ripped so I was losing about 1 quart every 50 miles!
You are the man! Ove seen a lot of videos and you are by far the most detailed!!!! You take the time to explain what and why you're doing something!!! That's huge!!!!!
Hi, your videos and tutorials help me save alot of time and money working on my 95 TLC. This video solved my oil leak coming from the front crank seal. Hats off to you and thank you so much 👍👍
I just ordered the seals for this job along with the water pump/rad hoses. I'll be ordering the crank holder tool from you; definitely looks worth it! Thanks for all the great videos!
I finally did this job, thanks for the video, worth well more than my (small) Patreon donations! I couldn’t locate a nearby torque wrench rental with that much torque, but worked around with a torque adaptor and a 3/4” breaker bar extended with a couple feet of 1” black pipe (and careful placement of my forehead in case something let go).
Great vid , I need to do this on my 2re fz Tacoma 1995 , not sure if it has a main seal but I’m going to see I have a oil leak on the oil pump, I see no videos on UA-cam so this helped
Thanks for the awesome video. Can you give some tips on priming the oil pump. I have the engine disassembled currently. I’ve read that some people like to pack the oil pump cavity with petroleum jelly or white lithium grease. Or is the .9 cu in of oil applied into the oil pump per FSM sufficient? Do I apply assembly lube around the lobes of the rotor first then pack it? Thanks
I think the oil the fsm calls for is to prime it. I leave the ignition coil and fuel pump relay unplugged and crank the engine for a bit to get oil pumping before we actually start it.
Hi, I searched all thw coments and read the discription and couldnt find a link to the guy selling new screw for the oil pump cover and you lentioned they sell heater hose or vacume line kits but i couldnt understand from the audio in the video. Is it possible for you to send a link? thanks!
Thank you for the videos! As a new 80 owner, these are incredibly helpful! So... say I were to drop the key into the timing cover. Or in this case a nut (from the open valve cover up top)... What's the best way to get it out? Magnet fishing has thus far been unproductive. I also pulled the easy-to-reach oil pan on the bottom to go in from that side. The crank rotates and doesn't seem to bind, but it still makes me uneasy having a nut floating around in that area.
Thanks for the video, very helpful and hoping the pulley holder comes back soon! Your videos made me much more comfortable working on my LC and its been awesome doing so. Have you discovered any other methods to hold that pulley by chance?
We stopped the entire manufacturing side of the business. I don't think we'll be starting it up again. There was a guy on Ih8mud that was making a similar holder.
Ryan, since I will be this deep into Changing the o ring for the oil pump...would you suggest just changed going the entire pump? Is it that much more labor to do so?
The oil pump is built in to the timing cover so you'd be replacing the entire cover. It's a huge job with the head and oil pans coming off. It's a ton more labor to get the pump changed.
Question on when u put the radiator back in. The foam sealing strip on the bottom of my radiator disintegrated when I touched it so I need to replace it. Can you explain what foam stuffing (or whatever it’s called) you put around the radiator to air seal the radiator? I did not have any foam sealing the shroud to the back of the radiator but maybe I need foam sealing there too? Just want to make sure I have optimal air flow thru the radiator. Thanks for any tips you might have. Love your videos!!!
You have become my new favorite TLC mechanic, I have a 96 and it needs to have the fender flares removed and new trim seals put on, if you have an idea of a good video for that please post. Thx. M
I absolutely hate doing the fender trim. I worked for a body shop years ago and had to do them all the time. Haven't done one since 😁. We don't do any body repair at the shop so we don't ever get in to pulling the flares.
Another question, when you have all your belts off and just the pulley exposed would it be harmful to also steam clean the front part of the motor? Mine has the o ring dripping so there is a good amount of old oil sitting on it. Just don't want to harm anything
Ryan Got the pulley tool today! Super pumped to use it. Quick question again, is that crankshaft seal the rear seal or the front seal? I can't figure out which one to purchase. Thanks
Can you tell me what impact wrench/tool you used, or anyone used? I can't the screws on the pump cover to move. Though I am using a ridgid screw impact driver.
@@OTRAMM Thank you. And thank you for the video! You are so right! The right bit and lots of hammering, and a couple days got them out. One one stripped.
It spins so it won't always be facing up. I'm pretty sure it's facing down at 0 on the timing mark. I've never paid a ton of attention though. I don't line anything up specifically before pulling it.
Another awesome video, thanks! I like the hood mounted light, looks like it's a plug in? Which one are you using? I looked on your tool link but didn't see it
Very good job, excelent Can you draw and put in a file or pdf document the tool to hold the puller? I want to do in my 1996 Land Cruiser. One guy in youtube do the same job but he hold the crankshaft in the back the engine, in the hole of the flywheel put a socket, what do you think? its safe? or can do some damage? Thanks some much for your videos, I enjoy every one of your videos
I've seen folks do the socket trick. I've always worried about it bending the flex plate. I'll see if I can dig up the drawings on the holding tool. Glad you like the videos.
Well if you're a fan of losing teeth.... That works for loosening but not tightening. Oh I think I figured out how to fix your video. I had to do a similar fix on this one. Just gotta wait til Crash gets back from paternity leave :)
my tetth were no where near the underside of the frame you method is great but the other worked perfect. and my 350lb torque wrench tightened it right up I need to bring mine in for a bit of exhaust mod dont want anyone else touching your pipe.
@@OTRAMM ok thanks, just figured with a router set only running about twenty bucks, would be good preventative maintenance and cheap insurance. Are you still doing the weekly web chat?
Hey brother. I don't understand what the need is for the special tool you made for the crank balancer. Whether taking the bolt off or putting it back on, doesn't the bolt loosen and/or tighten back on simply using an impact?? Even if the balancer spins while taking off bolt with impact or spins while tightening back on, aren't you still loosening or tightening as needed?? Thanks for any info because I'm about to do this exact job on my 95 LC and really wondering if I really need this special made tool of yours. Thanks brother for great teaching video. Subscribed!
No oil pressure on the dash or no oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? First thing I'd check is the wiring at the gauge sender if it's no pressure on the dash. It's down behind the AC compressor. If no pressure on a mechanical gauge make sure the crank bolt is torqued properly.
@@OTRAMM hi yes on the dash it’s not showing pressure my sender is new will check crank pully tomorrow morning can I take plugs out plus pull off oil filter put a little grease over the filter hole refit filter disconnect coil lead n turn the motor over slowly will that do it
@@tonysullivan5442 putting grease in the filter won't do anything. When the engine was assembled was oil added to the pump when it was put together? I'd use a mechanical gauge to see exactly what's going on.
Tried to order the pulley tool...sold out so looking forward to your next batch! Two quick questions...when you took the radiator out I assume you drained it first? And when you put the belts back on do you have to adjust any type of timing or tension? Thanks is it mark? Your name?
Yep, drained the radiator first. You need to adjust the belts when you reinstall them. The next batch of pulley tools should be here in a day or two. If you want shoot me an email to otramm@otramm.com and I'll put you on the list. And I always forget to introduce myself on videos. I'm Ryan
I love you man. In all seriousness...love these videos. Quick question...do you happen to have a cut sheet or dimensions to Fab up one of those pulley bars? That would be epic thanks a ton! Love your work and look forward to more and doing this myself this summer
I just checked em out! Love the update...I was really hoping though they looked like the old school iron worker kind you have! But haha I may have to settle for the "new kind"
The new style is actually stronger and easier to use. And it even fits in a flat rate box :) I've switched over using the new one. Kept one out of the first batch for myself.
OTRAMM hey mate just to Let you know I followed your video mate you are a legend this was such an easy job with your way on showing and explaining Only thing I did different was I used the bump the starter method to crack the bolt. How ever I have a manual transmission and putting it in 5th gear with hand break on and something pushing breaks down I was able to Torque the 30mm Harmonic Balancer bolt to spec. HUGE thanks man keep it up
Not currently. The prices for the blanks went way up and made them waaay too expensive to produce. I may find a different laser cutter in the future, but they're on the back burner right now.
Are you kidding? Yes very helpful thanks again it's better to learn from someone that takes the time than to read the repair manual. At least that's how I like learn. Can I borrow that crank shaft pulley stop tool?🤣
That won't be a video I'll be making :) Those stem seals are hard enough to deal with when the head is off. Trying to do them in the truck and not drop the valves in would be a nightmare.
OTRAMM That’s probably why I’m just putting an additive in the oil for now. 😩. But I’ve started doing those two oil seals. Mines a 105/100 series 1998 but very similar. Thanks again for making the video.
Esta bien como se cambia una bomba o cualquier trabajo que hace, pero NO ENFOCA O NO SE VE Lo que está haciendo, la mayoría de los trabajos se enfoca la espalda y no se ven los pernos que está sacando, en la instalación del turbo no se ve la conexión de las cañerías de aceite y termina y ni siquiera lo prende.
Dear All, No mechanics here in Bosnia can help me with adjusting my valves on FZJ80 (one of few if not the only fzj80 here) They do not have tools no shims and no experience with this particular problem. What can I do about it. I would buy on-line tools and shims or adjusting valves kit for the in-line 6, 1fz-fe engine. If there is such thing. Can you tell me what to buy and where? Or you have some other advice. Thanks in advance. www.toyodiy.com/parts/q?vin=Fzj800154193 This is my friend who needs help.
It's rare to need to adjust the valves on a 1fz unless someone has gotten them out of order in the past. As far as I know, Toyota is the only source for the shims. There are a bunch of them so a kit is unlikely. You've got to measure the clearance, measure the shim, and them compare that to a table to find the proper shim thickness. It's a tedious job,.
@@mcfobossan I don't know, we never got Diesel trucks here. I've used the SP tools' valve tool. If you have several out of spec it's easier to remove the cams.
Just used the crank holder I bought from you a year or so ago and it worked like a champ. Thanks Andy
Thanks a million for these videos, you walked me through the entire job on my 93. Seeing it done and hearing tips from guys who actually work on them is worth a thousand shop manuals. Your explanations are excellent, and the narration is relevant. My main pet peeves with other videos.
The torque value for the bolts holding the oil pump cover should be 8ft.lbs. So states volume 2, page LU-4 of the '97 1FZ-FE Repair Manual. Thanks much for the in depth vids, extremely helpful.
Awesome, Thanks. We've got the online version of the manual and it doesn't show the torque spec. Much appreciated.
BTW, i found the torque spec for the oil pump cover screws, its in the toyota 1FZ/1FZFE RM321E shop manual, section "Engine -Lubrication System", "Oil pump cover x oil pump 10Nm / 105kgf-cm / 8 ft-lb "
Super informative video! I watched this and performed this today and everything went just fine. The best trick you mentioned was using a hammer to hammer in a #3 phillips-head. Got those oil pump screws out with no issue! I also bought a used crankshaft bolt holder tool off of Ebay and just realized now that it is the exact one that you're selling! I got that bolt off by using a long metal bar on top of the breaker bar. Very happy right now that I no longer have a massive oil leak. The bottom of the oil pump o ring ripped so I was losing about 1 quart every 50 miles!
Very professional video from an obviously experienced expert. Great highly detailed narrative and i appreciate the help so much. Thank you
You are the man!
Ove seen a lot of videos and you are by far the most detailed!!!! You take the time to explain what and why you're doing something!!! That's huge!!!!!
Hi, your videos and tutorials help me save alot of time and money working on my 95 TLC. This video solved my oil leak coming from the front crank seal. Hats off to you and thank you so much 👍👍
I just ordered the seals for this job along with the water pump/rad hoses. I'll be ordering the crank holder tool from you; definitely looks worth it! Thanks for all the great videos!
Awesome video.
You guys should do an 80 Series head gasket replacement video now!
I've considered it, but man that would be a long video :)
OTRAMM but it would be nightly nice to have a high quality video when searching for one. :)
He did one
I finally did this job, thanks for the video, worth well more than my (small) Patreon donations!
I couldn’t locate a nearby torque wrench rental with that much torque, but worked around with a torque adaptor and a 3/4” breaker bar extended with a couple feet of 1” black pipe (and careful placement of my forehead in case something let go).
You are the absolute best! And saved me thousands with these videos!
Attempting this tomorrow! Nice quality video. Thanks!
Fantastic video! I'm about to do this on a 97 and this was very useful to see where everything is . Great video! Subscribed!
At about 30:50 you talk about how you washed the front of the engine. Do you have a video on how you did it correctly?
No video, just degreaser and a power washer. Just don't shoot directly at electrical bits and seals.
Great vid , I need to do this on my 2re fz Tacoma 1995 , not sure if it has a main seal but I’m going to see I have a oil leak on the oil pump,
I see no videos on UA-cam so this helped
Ingenious tool design! Good video, thanks.
Thanks for the awesome video. Can you give some tips on priming the oil pump. I have the engine disassembled currently. I’ve read that some people like to pack the oil pump cavity with petroleum jelly or white lithium grease. Or is the .9 cu in of oil applied into the oil pump per FSM sufficient? Do I apply assembly lube around the lobes of the rotor first then pack it? Thanks
I think the oil the fsm calls for is to prime it. I leave the ignition coil and fuel pump relay unplugged and crank the engine for a bit to get oil pumping before we actually start it.
Hi, I searched all thw coments and read the discription and couldnt find a link to the guy selling new screw for the oil pump cover and you lentioned they sell heater hose or vacume line kits but i couldnt understand from the audio in the video. Is it possible for you to send a link? thanks!
Thank you for the videos! As a new 80 owner, these are incredibly helpful!
So... say I were to drop the key into the timing cover. Or in this case a nut (from the open valve cover up top)... What's the best way to get it out? Magnet fishing has thus far been unproductive. I also pulled the easy-to-reach oil pan on the bottom to go in from that side.
The crank rotates and doesn't seem to bind, but it still makes me uneasy having a nut floating around in that area.
There's not a real good way to get in there short of pulling the timing cover, which also means pulling the head.
@@OTRAMM Thank you so much for the reply. I feared that would be the case... well this just turned into one painful valve cover gasket job.🤦♂
Thanks for the video, very helpful and hoping the pulley holder comes back soon! Your videos made me much more comfortable working on my LC and its been awesome doing so. Have you discovered any other methods to hold that pulley by chance?
We stopped the entire manufacturing side of the business. I don't think we'll be starting it up again. There was a guy on Ih8mud that was making a similar holder.
How can I get a counter brace for the removal and installation of the harmonic balancer bolt... great video. 👍.....
I don't know if anyone is currently making them.
@OTRAMM Thank you for your reply
Hi Buddy...my 96 FJ80 makes a rattle noise when start...after being off for a week....the rattle noise last 1 or maybe 2 seconds
Thanks a lot
You’re videos are great, Ryan. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Ryan, since I will be this deep into Changing the o ring for the oil pump...would you suggest just changed going the entire pump? Is it that much more labor to do so?
The oil pump is built in to the timing cover so you'd be replacing the entire cover. It's a huge job with the head and oil pans coming off. It's a ton more labor to get the pump changed.
@@OTRAMM darn! I was hoping it wasn't but fair enough. The o ring it is! Thanks
Great video! Filled with lots of great tips. Thanks!
Question on when u put the radiator back in. The foam sealing strip on the bottom of my radiator disintegrated when I touched it so I need to replace it. Can you explain what foam stuffing (or whatever it’s called) you put around the radiator to air seal the radiator? I did not have any foam sealing the shroud to the back of the radiator but maybe I need foam sealing there too? Just want to make sure I have optimal air flow thru the radiator. Thanks for any tips you might have. Love your videos!!!
We've never bothered with replacing the foam. It's missing on most we see without any noticeable detriment.
Do you use the Toyota seal packing 103 for the seal?
When will your crank holder tool.be available again?
Hopefully within a few weeks. Waiting on the next batch from water jet.
@@OTRAMM how can I pre-order or get on waiting list?
@@crishawn1000 shoot me an email to OTRAMM@otramm.com and I can let you know when they're ready.
Another great video, thank you so much.
You have become my new favorite TLC mechanic, I have a 96 and it needs to have the fender flares removed and new trim seals put on, if you have an idea of a good video for that please post. Thx. M
I absolutely hate doing the fender trim. I worked for a body shop years ago and had to do them all the time. Haven't done one since 😁. We don't do any body repair at the shop so we don't ever get in to pulling the flares.
These are so appreciated
This is a great video thank you for taking the time to do it
Awesome video!! Guess I will be doing this sooner than later...or not! haha
The oil pump cover screws are JIS......do you hammer in JIS #3 or Regular Phillips #3 bit??
JIS bits. The hammering isn't to seat the bit as much as it is to shock the threads loose.
@@OTRAMM Thanks, I have been waiting to do this job, your vids will certainly help a lot.
Do you still sell the crank holder tool?@@OTRAMM
@@ggergg6423 nope, we stopped making them a couple years ago.
Thanks, I will weld one up then. The 308 ft lb torque wrench required almost makes it worth paying someone else to do this job.@@OTRAMM
What fell off when you pulled out the oil pump cover?
i tried to do this 3 years ago... the car has not moved since :)
Great video!!!
Thanks
Another question, when you have all your belts off and just the pulley exposed would it be harmful to also steam clean the front part of the motor? Mine has the o ring dripping so there is a good amount of old oil sitting on it. Just don't want to harm anything
As long as your'e careful it should be fine. Just don't spray directly at the intake ports or electronics.
Ryan Got the pulley tool today! Super pumped to use it. Quick question again, is that crankshaft seal the rear seal or the front seal? I can't figure out which one to purchase. Thanks
Front seal, I think Toyota calls it the timing cover seal.
@@OTRAMM thanks Ryan!
Such a great video ......Thank You Sir .....jusr curious what is the in your shop cost of doing the job?....CHeers
Depends on the add ons but the base job is around 850.00
Can you tell me what impact wrench/tool you used, or anyone used? I can't the screws on the pump cover to move. Though I am using a ridgid screw impact driver.
It's a Milwaukee 3/8 impact. Gotta be careful though itll strip them without a good jis 3 but
@@OTRAMM Thank you. And thank you for the video! You are so right! The right bit and lots of hammering, and a couple days got them out. One one stripped.
I wish and want this guy to work on my 80s series...soooo efficient! Too bad I'm in Chicago area😔😔
Will the keyway always be on top as shown in the video or is there a mark on the pulley to align so it is on top when I pull the pulley off?
It spins so it won't always be facing up. I'm pretty sure it's facing down at 0 on the timing mark. I've never paid a ton of attention though. I don't line anything up specifically before pulling it.
interesting, mine has a rather large oil leak from the front cover around that location, although every other 1FZ i've seen is dry in that area
Another awesome video, thanks!
I like the hood mounted light, looks like it's a plug in? Which one are you using? I looked on your tool link but didn't see it
It's a Matco light. It's pretty old. It's from before everything went to LED and cordless. It still works though.
@@OTRAMM thanks, I have been looking for a corded led, I might just have to have battery faith....
Very good job, excelent Can you draw and put in a file or pdf document the tool to hold the puller? I want to do in my 1996 Land Cruiser. One guy in youtube do the same job but he hold the crankshaft in the back the engine, in the hole of the flywheel put a socket, what do you think? its safe? or can do some damage? Thanks some much for your videos, I enjoy every one of your videos
I've seen folks do the socket trick. I've always worried about it bending the flex plate. I'll see if I can dig up the drawings on the holding tool. Glad you like the videos.
Well if you're a fan of losing teeth.... That works for loosening but not tightening. Oh I think I figured out how to fix your video. I had to do a similar fix on this one. Just gotta wait til Crash gets back from paternity leave :)
my tetth were no where near the underside of the frame you method is great but the other worked perfect. and my 350lb torque wrench tightened it right up I need to bring mine in for a bit of exhaust mod dont want anyone else touching your pipe.
What size bolts go into the balancer pulley that hold your tool in place? M8? what thread?
M8 1.25 I think
What size bolts you use to hold on that custom tool for the crank pulley.
M8x1.25 if I recall correctly.
Another awesome video 👌
When I change the o-ring can I slip out the oil pump star assembly and replace them both easily?
They slide out but there isn't usually any reason to replace them.
@@OTRAMM ok thanks, just figured with a router set only running about twenty bucks, would be good preventative maintenance and cheap insurance.
Are you still doing the weekly web chat?
If only doing it was as easy as watching it, but yeah great video.
Hey brother.
I don't understand what the need is for the special tool you made for the crank balancer.
Whether taking the bolt off or putting it back on, doesn't the bolt loosen and/or tighten back on simply using an impact??
Even if the balancer spins while taking off bolt with impact or spins while tightening back on, aren't you still loosening or tightening as needed??
Thanks for any info because I'm about to do this exact job on my 95 LC and really wondering if I really need this special made tool of yours.
Thanks brother for great teaching video. Subscribed!
How did you get on mate?
Hi I’ve just rebuilt my 1fzfe but I have no oil pressure how do I gain oil pressure any information would be great thanks
No oil pressure on the dash or no oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? First thing I'd check is the wiring at the gauge sender if it's no pressure on the dash. It's down behind the AC compressor. If no pressure on a mechanical gauge make sure the crank bolt is torqued properly.
@@OTRAMM hi yes on the dash it’s not showing pressure my sender is new will check crank pully tomorrow morning can I take plugs out plus pull off oil filter put a little grease over the filter hole refit filter disconnect coil lead n turn the motor over slowly will that do it
@@tonysullivan5442 putting grease in the filter won't do anything. When the engine was assembled was oil added to the pump when it was put together? I'd use a mechanical gauge to see exactly what's going on.
Can you do a video on a 200 series radiator replacement since they are cracking and leaking, also a 200 series starter replacement. Good Video, thanks
Wrote an estimate Friday for a 200 radiator so should have one coming in soon. Haven't had call to do a starter on one yet.
Have fun doing the starter. When I replaced mine on my 200, I had to remove the exhaust manifold first. A few of those bolts were a huge pain.
Hi my friend do have a video changing the power steering pump
I don't, sorry.
Thanks from Houston Texas
Tried to order the pulley tool...sold out so looking forward to your next batch! Two quick questions...when you took the radiator out I assume you drained it first? And when you put the belts back on do you have to adjust any type of timing or tension? Thanks is it mark? Your name?
Yep, drained the radiator first. You need to adjust the belts when you reinstall them. The next batch of pulley tools should be here in a day or two. If you want shoot me an email to otramm@otramm.com and I'll put you on the list. And I always forget to introduce myself on videos. I'm Ryan
I love you man. In all seriousness...love these videos. Quick question...do you happen to have a cut sheet or dimensions to Fab up one of those pulley bars? That would be epic thanks a ton! Love your work and look forward to more and doing this myself this summer
I actually sell them on our website. There's a few left from the current batch and more on the way. www.otramm.com/1fz-fe-crank-holding-tool.html
@@OTRAMM amazing! You. Da. Man. Saving lives
I just checked em out! Love the update...I was really hoping though they looked like the old school iron worker kind you have! But haha I may have to settle for the "new kind"
The new style is actually stronger and easier to use. And it even fits in a flat rate box :) I've switched over using the new one. Kept one out of the first batch for myself.
If your car is a Manual would you even need to hold as you could leave it in gear with someone holding there foot on the break?
I don't know, we only got automatics. It's 306 foot pounds and likely more to break free so I'd doubt it.
OTRAMM hey mate just to
Let you know I followed your video mate you are a legend this was such an easy job with your way on showing and explaining Only thing I did different was I used the bump the starter method to crack the bolt. How ever I have a manual transmission and putting it in 5th gear with hand break on and something pushing breaks down I was able to Torque the 30mm Harmonic Balancer bolt to spec. HUGE thanks man keep it up
2 years late, but yes you can. Don't even need someone to hold the brake, just put it in 4th and chock the wheels
How many hours labor would a traditional shop charge for this? 2 hours worth?
I think book rate is around 6 hours
Thanks for the info. Very useful
Can you just break the pulley bolt off with a impact??
Maybe, depending on how strong your impact is. You'll still need a way to hold the pulley when you torque the bolt going back on.
@@OTRAMM thank you for the reply. I just now order a tool for it I saw online. Hopefully this works.
What size socket do I need for that crank bolt?
30mm
@@OTRAMM thank you, somehow missed that in the video. Purchased the adapter plate and can’t wait to get started on this job. Thank you
Are you still selling the crank pulley holder tool?
Not currently. The prices for the blanks went way up and made them waaay too expensive to produce. I may find a different laser cutter in the future, but they're on the back burner right now.
@@OTRAMM that's why I asked, I can produce them. I'll reach out via email
Are you kidding? Yes very helpful thanks again it's better to learn from someone that takes the time than to read the repair manual. At least that's how I like learn. Can I borrow that crank shaft pulley stop tool?🤣
What’s the bill to have your shop do this?
Right about 800.00
Well done
Great video. How about a valve stem seal change without removing the head video 🤔
That won't be a video I'll be making :) Those stem seals are hard enough to deal with when the head is off. Trying to do them in the truck and not drop the valves in would be a nightmare.
OTRAMM That’s probably why I’m just putting an additive in the oil for now. 😩. But I’ve started doing those two oil seals. Mines a 105/100 series 1998 but very similar. Thanks again for making the video.
Just did mine and someone also put a 13mm on my fan as well… weird
I’m betting that an ARB bull bar and a 2.5” lift makes this whole process more difficult.
Not too much harder. Just longer to lean over😁
how to remove stripped screws
I usually weld a nut to them. A left handed drill bit works well also
thank you nice video
Esta bien como se cambia una bomba o cualquier trabajo que hace, pero NO ENFOCA O NO SE VE Lo que está haciendo, la mayoría de los trabajos se enfoca la espalda y no se ven los pernos que está sacando, en la instalación del turbo no se ve la conexión de las cañerías de aceite y termina y ni siquiera lo prende.
I guess it went over 1,000,000+ mile? we all know Toyota engine last longer then its owner lol
👍👍👍👍👍. По русскому языку!!!!!!!!
Dear All,
No mechanics here in Bosnia can help me with adjusting my valves on FZJ80 (one of few if not the only fzj80 here)
They do not have tools no shims and no experience with this particular problem. What can I do about it.
I would buy on-line tools and shims or adjusting valves kit for the in-line 6, 1fz-fe engine. If there is such thing.
Can you tell me what to buy and where? Or you have some other advice. Thanks in advance.
www.toyodiy.com/parts/q?vin=Fzj800154193
This is my friend who needs help.
It's rare to need to adjust the valves on a 1fz unless someone has gotten them out of order in the past. As far as I know, Toyota is the only source for the shims. There are a bunch of them so a kit is unlikely. You've got to measure the clearance, measure the shim, and them compare that to a table to find the proper shim thickness. It's a tedious job,.
"OEM Genuine SST Valve Adjustment Tool For Toyota Diesel Engines"
Is it the same tool for diesel and petrol valves?
@@mcfobossan I don't know, we never got Diesel trucks here. I've used the SP tools' valve tool. If you have several out of spec it's easier to remove the cams.