We had jeeps growing up in the 70's and 80's may dad bought a 55 Willy's with an aftermarket hard top from a farmer with a cracked block. He bought a wrecked 60's Impala with a 283 power steering and brakes and installed all that into the Jeep. I learned to drive on that jeep when I was 7 whenever we were on dirt roads or hunting season I always drove. Lots of memories of that Jeep it was a part of my life.
29:45..try taking 2 or 3 short wobble extensions when you can't quite get a straight shot at a bolt like that..usually gives you the clearance you need without having the tendency to "flop around" like a universal joint does...
31:20 It will always be the last one if you take all the other bolts out, the manifold will puy pressure on the last one making it more (sometimes impossible) to get out. After you crack one, re tighten it, till u get em all cracked. AND THERE'S YOUR SNACK!
You gotta love the simplicity of these vehicles. Everything is accessible.. straight forward.. and very easy to understand what needs to be done for repairs. ✅
..yeah...somewhere along 34:11 is where my dad would always start the swearing...usually GD and SOB..he never used the "F" word around us when we were kids..like GD and SOB were better, Lol...been know to swear myself a few times when it keeps slipping off or snaps off in situations like that...
@@dyer2cycleI’m probably spitting image of your Dad because I used to have 1 hell of a temper!!! Id have cussed it out, threw my tools 🧰 across the garage! If I’d had busted my knuckles I’ve been know to grab my sledgehammer and beat the F outta it & regret it later 😂🤣! My living son of the 2 sons That I had, he’s almost 40 Now but he was same way as you. When he was a teenager, He’d be helping me work on a hard hideous job. And if It caused me to lose my temper he’d go in the house 🏡 and he refused to be out there around me, in fear of getting hit by flying wrenches 🔧! 😂 I love to work on things & I used to have one vicious temper. But with Age I’ve toned way way down about 98% and have that much more patience now also. Before I had very little patience maybe 2% But I’ve learned when I start to get frustrated & before I lose it 😤🤬to take a 10 minute coffee ☕️ or soda 🥤 break, cool off, think 🤔 about it and start all over. Can you believe it, it works 😂, just wished I’d have done ✅ that years ago I wouldn’t have destroyed 🔨 so much 💩 which I had to go buy $$$$$$$ & replace..😂
Home Depot and Lowe's have medium and large black cement mixing tubs (reasonably priced) that are much wider than buckets and great for catching fluids. They are also handy for under bed or couch storage if you use furniture risers that make your bed or couches higher. They are very strong since they are meant for cement and MUCH cheaper than anything Rubbermaid makes.
I had one my dad got me when I was a kid in 1974. I lived on an Island in Michigan called Cherry Island and drove it into swamps, pulled trees and even drove it through flooded areas back then. That jeep taught me to drive at 14!
Hi there Taryl, I watched this Episode and found it very interesting. Converting a 6 volt to 12 volt can be tricky. You must consider all devices/ Instruments connected at double the voltage now. Of course bulbs must be changed. To do it correctly all electric items must be designed for 12 bolts now. Such as starter motor, pressure gauges(if equipment) , ignition coil but most importantly the fuel gauge. Fuel gauge circuit works by changing the resistance of the circuit. Supply voltage remains the same therefore current flow is what changes. The fuel guage itself is a current indicator. The level transmitter has a variable resistor inside (I know this is understood) but what I believe you now have is a voltage doubling problem which explains why the low end of level is half a tank. The circuit current is double now because of converting to 12 volts. If you check I bet. The needle goes to max, pass “F” for full tank. If they stay with the 12 volt supply a 6 volt dropping resistor must be put in circuit to correct the error in gauge. Also i have seen ignition points burn because a 6 volt coil with installed in a 12 volt circuit without dropping resistor. Way back in the day I think 1960s and or 50s vehicle where changed to manufactured with 12 volt system. What was done is a resistive wire was used with leftover 6 volt coils. I remember my Dad and I were working on a 60’s car that had a 12v system without dropping resistive wire and 12 volt coil went bad. Well coil went bad so he got a replacement that was told to be 12 volts, it was not and the points would burn after only a month. Took a while to figure out. The 6 and 12 volt coils looked the same only different was part number. I like I said previously the gauge probably is good. Makes sense it’s reading minimum half way. To correct you need dropping resistor. The current loop is milliamps so what I would do is install a variable resistor in circuit and adjust to get correct indication empty to full then remove that resistor and measure. Now find a fixed resistor of that valve and install. I love those military jeeps of old. Drove them at Ft. Rucker Ala. and in Vietnam. You have a great day , love your videos.
@@eugenepolan1750 yeah I remember seeing those resistor. Auto parts manufacturer had millions of those six volt coils left over from six volt system. So instead of scraping them a resistor was added. Many had a resistive wire with six volt coil . No way to know for sure until you ohmed it out. Difficult to tell 6 from 12 volt coil you had to check primary winding. Once my Dad got a 6 volt replacement coil for a 12 volt car. The points would not last long. I figured it out for him. What a cluster back in the 1960’s When there were both systems on same type cars.
"Cold start flapper thing" is a heat riser valve. Helps the carburetor heat up quickly in the cold. Good thing to keep working. I would suggest getting another weapon for your arsenal of tools. I bought a "Mini Ductor" induction heating tool years ago. It lets you heat stuff (ferrous metals) in tight places that you don't want open flame. That thing saved my bacon a thousand times removing exhaust bolts. It works really fast on smaller fasteners and would help with mowers as well as the Jeep. Just a thought!
Yes, otherwise known as a heat valve. General Motors still makes the lubricant for those, it’s called Heat Valve Penetrant. It is my go-to penetrating oil for all rusty fasteners. It also works well for dried out rubber hoses and coolant hoses that are stuck. In heat valve parlance, you squirt it into the shaft/bore and it wicks in and leaves a lubricating film. It is supposed to be done periodically to make sure the heat valve continues to function.
Others mentioned it, but the conversion to a 12 volt system might be complicating the gas gage issue. You might put a resistor in there to get it right?
You are correct Sir. When converting the Jeep from 6 to 12 volts. You need to isolate the instrument panel with a voltage reducer. That can be a simple as a resister in-line or a fancy buck converter.
I went through this with an international scout, it had an old-fashioned mechanical voltage regulator for the gauges which went bad I had to replace it with a voltage regulator I see a resistor won't do.
I'd agree. I work on lots of old stuff and gauges either work or they don't. If they read real wrong, either it is the wrong sender (Unlikely two in a row the same) or the supply voltage is wrong. Even 12v systems have a voltage regulator for the gauges. You can get one for free or cheap at a wrecking yard.
40:00 Of course metal contracts when it gets colder, so it makes sense to heat it (expand) and then cool it right away (contracts and breaks the rust loose, etc).
Reminds me of working on the old Chevy V-8's during the 60's, it was always the last spark plug on left rear under the hot manifold that you couldn't get out. What a pain!
That thing is the PCV valve. It does come apart. Inside is a spring and a little funnel shaped part. They often get clogged. When they do, the engine runs rich, the pressure in the motor pushes the oily air into the air intake making the mess you found. It also will cause the front and rear crank seals to leak.
My grandfather had a 1957 version of one of these that he restored when I was a kid and I LOVED it! I still remember the sounds and smells of this old beast that seemed indestructible as we drove off to camp on the back roads in rural Maine for a week of boating and fishing. Being a WWII vet himself, it was dressed up in military fashion with a giant star on the hood of course! Thanks Taryl for bring back the memories!
The manifold studs and the head bolts go into the water jackets. You need to use thread sealer on them when you put them back, especially on the head bolts!
You know, there's nothing Mr Dactyal can't handle, from small engines to Automobiles. You sir are a man of many talents and a great teacher. Thank you for showing us how to fix stuff over the years
Hey Taryl, they make a induction heater call a bolt buster made in the good old USA and it work super fast with no flame maybe look in to one. Great job as always crew
Man, Taryl, I was yelling at you the whole time you were working on that last stud, “Spray more Kroil!!!”. Get a short breaker and just go back and forth a lot more times! Spray more Kroil!!! 😂 I could feel that stud twisting off from here! You were SOOO lucky! Huge sigh of relief when that last one backed out. You’ve been turning wrenches way more than me so I guess you knew what you were doing! 😉🔧👍
I remember as a really little kid, maybe 1950, sitting in the back seat as my GRANDMA!!! drove her Jeep! She was a tough old bird. Canvas top and sides in the Winter every single day in north Jersey driving Bill to Bell Labs. Now my daughter drives a Jeep too. Same genes I guess. I drove one the whole tour in Vietnam and my back has never been the same! 😂
This is what I like about these older machines, you could actually get them to come apart so you could fix them. If that were a new "modern" engine, all of those exhaust studs would have snapped off.
Gotta love old cars, so much room under the hood you can practically jump in and live in there. I love working on old cars as it's a treat, so very simple any shade tree mechanic can work on them and understand how they work. Modern cars good luck it just isn't the same, specialty tools for everything and sensors everywhere with no space to get your hands in to work. Nice little project even if just doing the bare minimum, i agree i would do a complete tear down over a few months maybe make it a winter project in the off season. Seeing this beauty has survived going on 75 years it really does deserve to be completely restored, give her a chance of going for another 75 years. Looking forward to part 2....cheers.
Glad to see you’re using the thread chasers we sent!👍 May I suggest smearing a bit of blue RTV silicone on each side of that intake gasket, that may make up for any slight variances. Also, Eastwood makes great exhaust manifold paint, much better than off-the-shelf stuff at your local auto parts store.
At 27:30 mark you were working the exhaust/intake bolts, you said " i got 2 nuts there, and 2 nuts here" and i said to myself.." one big nut holding the wrench" Great save on the manifold. P.S. love your betty Grable Curly bangs
That oil filter looks just like the one for my Ford 8N tractor..now THAT'S a JEEP...not one of these posh 4 door luxury Wranglers with all the electronics and doodads on them they make now..well, at least they still have real axles on them. Love these old simple, rugged MB's and CJ's...the last Wrangler I would really want would be the TJ..after that, they started getting too modern and complicated...
The valve in the exhaust manifold is called a heat-riser which helps heat up the intake manifold so that when outside temperatures are around 32 degrees that you won't have carburetor icing!!!! The carb will turn into a block of ice and block air flow and it will run rich until the ice melts and everything will be back to normal!!!!
Tip:. When installing those manifolds, use a molybdenum disulfide based anti seize (moly paste) on the hardware. Someone down the road will thank you for it!
I put anti seize on all my exhaust manifold bolts when I put my cat back together. I may never need to take it apart again, but if I do, I will love myself for it.
@@MaxNafeHorsemanship Exactly. Anyone who has had to deal with old, rusty hardware, or nuts and bolts that are used with dis-similar metals, understands the value of anti-seize. Keep on wrenching, my friend!
Thank you for the heat quench trick saw it on your channel a while back and have been using it ever cents help me this morning getting a bolt off holding a blade on
I enjoyed this video. As someone who has restored a 1948 Ford, I can tell you old vehicles hold all kinds of surprises. I have found old unbelievably shoddy repairs from who knows how long ago. One restoration was enough. The sticking part on the manifold is a heat riser. As the manifold warms up, the heat causes a bimetallic spring to relax and gradually open the choke on the carb. The Jeep setup may be slightly different, but that is a basic description. I kept my fingers crossed hoping you wouldn't break any of the fasteners as you removed the exhaust manifold from the engine. I was relieved when it came off ok.
@36:00 I was holding my breath literally. Oh man. Hard to get all that warm if you can't run it for a few minutes. Always enjoy your channel Mr. Dactyl. Oh. PB. Yep. Repeatedly. Let it soak. Hope you don't mind me chiming in. Been a fan of the channel for quite a while. It seems like the first video I saw of yours was converting a points ignition over to electronic ignition. Pretty sure that was you. Old troybilt in Alaska several years ago. Ran like a champ.
55:21 That cold start flapper thing is called a heat riser. The spring you have to install is bi-mechanic, it makes the flap open and close. And there's your information.
nice my old mate......limey speak...... I work a lot on pre 1920 vehicles.....all exhaust nuts and bolts are replaced with BRASS...even if I have to make them......
Taryl! Swich that fuel filter for a metal one.. it is too close to the manifold and will cause a fire- this is why on old VW beetles they mount the filter in front of the engine by the frame rail, not next to the carb…love your videos!
Learned heat and quench in the early 80s from a couple of war era mechanics. Often wondered myself why more tubers use that tried and true method. It’s the American way! Good start on the jeep, I hear the dinner bell in the distance….
Taryl, It looks like you and I have a shared love for craftsman tools. I have used them for my whole look career. The swivel head 3/8 ratchet spent many hours in my paddies!! Other mechanics have borrowed it and complained about the flexibility. I’m thinking, they have other issues if they can not make that ratchet work for themselves. I also agree, lawnmower over autos any day. Ps. Workin an ANY Exhaust manifolds sucks!! 😩
I wrench for a living and hate those things. Mac has one that pivots in the middle of the head. A little big for some places, but I'm starting to really like that one.
Hi Taryl. At age 14 I got a 46 CJ-2A in parts and pieces form a cousin. The engine was rebuilt, but sat on the ground for about 5yrs. So he gave it to me and I put it all back together. The only thing; it had a hard time starting with the 6volt battery. It had "The Square Flywheel Syndrome." A 12 volt jump or retarding the ign timing started it easily. It probably needed both a new 6volt battery and a new starter but I tried my hand fixing the starter by undercutting the mica, filing the commutator and brushes square again then cleaned and greased it, to no avail. Eventually I went to J.C. Whitney and bought a manual distributer adjuster. It was just a cable with an thumbwheel to move the cable in and out. It connected to the distributor, and I had to leave the distributor loose. I'd retard the timing to start it then adj the thumb wheel to advance it far enough to run nice. Then we were off to the mud races. Thanks for the memory recall. ben/ michigan
I think I stepped on some ones toes that was not my intention just around here jeeps rust out fast and the price of parts are out of this world. And yes I do know this I am garbage owner
Hi Taryl metalshaper has a video willys heat riser problems. Like you, with small equipment repair, he to is very good at what he does and that is Jeeps. I am a true fan of yours and just trying to help. Thank you Chip.
I would have left it 6 volts system. 6 volt alternator is available they are used on 1930’s Model A, you can get negative ground and 6 volt batteries are available.
For that rear manifold nut, I have a short extension, just long enough for the square oñone end and the socket on the other, about an inch long. Might want to get one. Many engines have bolts and studs that go through into the water jacket. Manifolds, water pumps, timing chain covers and others.
Good job making thing right. I had to do the same thing with my 1955 Willys.... It didn't stop there.... now it's all renewed and runs like a champ. OHV 151 Twin (aka 302)... EFI.
That intake manifold warped section might be a great place for some Taryl putty and then sand the surface flat and use some high temp grey RTV on the manifod side of the gasket.
I've used every brand of penetrating fluid there is on old boilers and radiator valve and iron pipes fittings and plugs that can be named old old old faucets connections the old wall mount on iron pipe.. 70 yr old crane valve fitting and old classic cars and old mowers time to time and i have found none better then Kano Kroil penetrating oil best there is. You can buy cans to fill you spray bottle thats what i do.
You are closer than you think with it being a tractor. There was a linkage kit for them plus other options that made them into a tractor. Don’t know how good they would have been at that work though. I think there was a belt pulley too.
idk about that cars vs mowers thing. i probably do need my head examined for this one lol. fixed up an old john deere. that one i can assure i do need a nut doctor for. it was sitting for a good long while before i got it and i let it sit in the back yard way longer than i should have. everything was rust seized. the worst part was the front spindles. couldn't turn the darned thing. dove one out with a mini sledge. the other i had to weld a nut on top of it and use a bolt to push it out. that mower though resulted in me getting a welder and teaching myself to weld. more like hot glue metal if you ever see my handy work lol.
Putting 12 V thru a 6V coil can cause it to overreact or burn out. Gauges might read higher than what is correct. Both the dash gauge and the sending unit likely use coils designed for the original 6V. Just something to check if still having problems.
chrysler slant 6 engines had the same shared intake/exhaust manifold setup. that round spring was for a heat riser which helped for cold starts. my 78 corolla had the same shared manifold setup and i was always tightening the bolts.
On the fuel gauge, I'm not sure how others did things but Ford used a voltage regulator on the back of the dash to control the voltage to the gauges. Worked on a 72 Mustand Mach I that the gauges acted funny. Low oil pressure wa the biggie. With a bit of testing figured out the regulator on the dash was bad. At the time it was a $6 part. Maybe much more today.
Nice work Taryl! I'm very impressed with your attention to detail. A little different work here but I love it! And "NO Value" is a TRUE statement! And that flapper is called a Heat Riser. Did I miss something? You're in a new shop?
I don't miss working on old cars. That "Oh crap what broke" feeling. I suppose one of the benefits of electric cars is they don't have an engine or transmission to get old oily and broken. But they weigh a ton and battery packs are extremely expensive and their range isn't great when the AC is on.
Your gauge problems could possibly be from the fact that they changed the operating voltage from 6 v up to 12 v, you should be able to get a voltage regulator IC to provide 6 v for the gauges
42:40 Google info on Liberty 🛎️ Bell It has a crack in the Metal because of cooling Metal down to fastThat would be a illustration on the cooling process of Cast Iron
Not the choke, that was a manual thing with a cable to the dash. The heat stove was to warm them up quicker, the spring caused the flap inside the manifold to direct exhaust gas around the inlet manifold. When it warmed up the spring also got hot and expanded to open the flap. Exhaust gas then went straight out.
We had jeeps growing up in the 70's and 80's may dad bought a 55 Willy's with an aftermarket hard top from a farmer with a cracked block. He bought a wrecked 60's Impala with a 283 power steering and brakes and installed all that into the Jeep. I learned to drive on that jeep when I was 7 whenever we were on dirt roads or hunting season I always drove. Lots of memories of that Jeep it was a part of my life.
Tarly going from small engines to automobiles??!!
A man of MANY talents!!!
Taryl does fix ALL! 😁
Wow someone call Scotty Kilmer LOL
I'll bet he does his own gunsmithing.
Well, that old jeep ant but a an old lawnmower engine... 6v omg 😅
@@Velodynamic Rev up your Breaks & Scrap em'!
29:45..try taking 2 or 3 short wobble extensions when you can't quite get a straight shot at a bolt like that..usually gives you the clearance you need without having the tendency to "flop around" like a universal joint does...
31:20 It will always be the last one if you take all the other bolts out, the manifold will puy pressure on the last one making it more (sometimes impossible) to get out. After you crack one, re tighten it, till u get em all cracked. AND THERE'S YOUR SNACK!
This is true. I typically start with the hardest one to get to too. just to get that done. makes the rest seem easy.
That was Awesome!! And Thanks for the Quencher trick .You are one Talented Guy!! Great Video! ..oh before I forget, The new Shop looks FANTASTIC!!
You gotta love the simplicity of these vehicles. Everything is accessible.. straight forward.. and
very easy to understand what needs to be done for repairs. ✅
I admire the patience and skill of Taryl!
..yeah...somewhere along 34:11 is where my dad would always start the swearing...usually GD and SOB..he never used the "F" word around us when we were kids..like GD and SOB were better, Lol...been know to swear myself a few times when it keeps slipping off or snaps off in situations like that...
@@dyer2cycleI’m probably spitting image of your Dad because I used to have 1 hell of a temper!!! Id have cussed it out, threw my tools 🧰 across the garage! If I’d had busted my knuckles I’ve been know to grab my sledgehammer and beat the F outta it & regret it later 😂🤣! My living son of the 2 sons That I had, he’s almost 40 Now but he was same way as you. When he was a teenager, He’d be helping me work on a hard hideous job. And if It caused me to lose my temper he’d go in the house 🏡 and he refused to be out there around me, in fear of getting hit by flying wrenches 🔧! 😂
I love to work on things & I used to have one vicious temper. But with Age I’ve toned way way down about 98% and have that much more patience now also.
Before I had very little patience maybe 2% But I’ve learned when I start to get frustrated & before I lose it
😤🤬to take a 10 minute coffee ☕️ or soda 🥤 break, cool off, think 🤔 about it and start all over. Can you believe it, it works 😂, just wished I’d have done ✅ that years ago I wouldn’t have destroyed 🔨 so much 💩 which I had to go buy $$$$$$$ & replace..😂
Home Depot and Lowe's have medium and large black cement mixing tubs (reasonably priced) that are much wider than buckets and great for catching fluids. They are also handy for under bed or couch storage if you use furniture risers that make your bed or couches higher. They are very strong since they are meant for cement and MUCH cheaper than anything Rubbermaid makes.
Agreed, great tip to share with everyone. I have 2 of the medium size tubs. Those also make a great box for the 🐈⬛ cat.
Choice tip.
I had one my dad got me when I was a kid in 1974. I lived on an Island in Michigan called Cherry Island and drove it into swamps, pulled trees and even drove it through flooded areas back then. That jeep taught me to drive at 14!
Hi there Taryl, I watched this Episode and found it very interesting. Converting a 6 volt to 12 volt can be tricky.
You must consider all devices/ Instruments connected at double the voltage now. Of course bulbs must be changed. To do it correctly all electric items must be designed for 12 bolts now. Such as starter motor, pressure gauges(if equipment) , ignition coil but most importantly the fuel gauge. Fuel gauge circuit works by changing the resistance of the circuit. Supply voltage remains the same therefore current flow is what changes. The fuel guage itself is a current indicator. The level transmitter has a variable resistor inside (I know this is understood) but what I believe you now have is a voltage doubling problem which explains why the low end of level is half a tank. The circuit current is double now because of converting to 12 volts. If you check I bet. The needle goes to max, pass “F” for full tank.
If they stay with the 12 volt supply a 6 volt dropping resistor must be put in circuit to correct the error in gauge.
Also i have seen ignition points burn because a 6 volt coil with installed in a 12 volt circuit without dropping resistor. Way back in the day I think 1960s and or 50s vehicle where changed to manufactured with 12 volt system. What was done is a resistive wire was used with leftover 6 volt coils. I remember my Dad and I were working on a 60’s car that had a 12v system without dropping resistive wire and 12 volt coil went bad. Well coil went bad so he got a replacement that was told to be 12 volts, it was not and the points would burn after only a month. Took a while to figure out. The 6 and 12 volt coils looked the same only different was part number.
I like I said previously the gauge probably is good. Makes sense it’s reading minimum half way.
To correct you need dropping resistor. The current loop is milliamps so what I would do is install a variable resistor in circuit
and adjust to get correct indication empty to full then remove that resistor and measure. Now find a fixed resistor of that valve and install.
I love those military jeeps of old. Drove them at Ft. Rucker Ala. and in Vietnam.
You have a great day , love your videos.
To drop the voltage to the coil, get chew one o' dem MOPAR Ballast Resistors. They own Jeep now, so that makes it an OEM part, right?
@@eugenepolan1750 yeah I remember seeing those resistor. Auto parts manufacturer had millions of those six volt coils left over from six volt system.
So instead of scraping them a resistor was added. Many had a resistive wire with six volt coil . No way to know for sure until you ohmed it out. Difficult to tell 6 from 12 volt coil you had to check primary winding. Once my Dad got a 6 volt replacement coil for a 12 volt car. The points would not last long. I figured it out for him. What a cluster back in the 1960’s
When there were both systems on same type cars.
"Cold start flapper thing" is a heat riser valve. Helps the carburetor heat up quickly in the cold. Good thing to keep working. I would suggest getting another weapon for your arsenal of tools. I bought a "Mini Ductor" induction heating tool years ago. It lets you heat stuff (ferrous metals) in tight places that you don't want open flame. That thing saved my bacon a thousand times removing exhaust bolts. It works really fast on smaller fasteners and would help with mowers as well as the Jeep. Just a thought!
Had a 307 chevelle with one of those stuck that cooked the exaust valves on that side of the engine .
The thing with the spring is a heat riser to warm up the carburetor. When the manifold gets hot the flap moves
Yep, and if it’s not adjusted properly it will cause excessive carburetor heating and eventually vapor lock if not an intake fire.
Right on
Yep, yep and yep. @@Prodemocracy1776
Yes, otherwise known as a heat valve. General Motors still makes the lubricant for those, it’s called Heat Valve Penetrant. It is my go-to penetrating oil for all rusty fasteners. It also works well for dried out rubber hoses and coolant hoses that are stuck. In heat valve parlance, you squirt it into the shaft/bore and it wicks in and leaves a lubricating film. It is supposed to be done periodically to make sure the heat valve continues to function.
Others mentioned it, but the conversion to a 12 volt system might be complicating the gas gage issue. You might put a resistor in there to get it right?
You are correct Sir. When converting the Jeep from 6 to 12 volts. You need to isolate the instrument panel with a voltage reducer. That can be a simple as a resister in-line or a fancy buck converter.
Correct, resistor or resistive wire
I went through this with an international scout, it had an old-fashioned mechanical voltage regulator for the gauges which went bad I had to replace it with a voltage regulator I see a resistor won't do.
I'd agree. I work on lots of old stuff and gauges either work or they don't. If they read real wrong, either it is the wrong sender (Unlikely two in a row the same) or the supply voltage is wrong. Even 12v systems have a voltage regulator for the gauges. You can get one for free or cheap at a wrecking yard.
Wast of time leave it 6 volt
40:00 Of course metal contracts when it gets colder, so it makes sense to heat it (expand) and then cool it right away (contracts and breaks the rust loose, etc).
Great video as always. You are a true craftsman. Thanks for sharing have a great weekend.
Reminds me of working on the old Chevy V-8's during the 60's, it was always the last spark plug on left rear under the hot manifold that you couldn't get out. What a pain!
That thing is the PCV valve. It does come apart. Inside is a spring and a little funnel shaped part. They often get clogged. When they do, the engine runs rich, the pressure in the motor pushes the oily air into the air intake making the mess you found. It also will cause the front and rear crank seals to leak.
My grandfather had a 1957 version of one of these that he restored when I was a kid and I LOVED it! I still remember the sounds and smells of this old beast that seemed indestructible as we drove off to camp on the back roads in rural Maine for a week of boating and fishing. Being a WWII vet himself, it was dressed up in military fashion with a giant star on the hood of course! Thanks Taryl for bring back the memories!
The manifold studs and the head bolts go into the water jackets. You need to use thread sealer on them when you put them back, especially on the head bolts!
That to me is kind of stupid to have those bolts, studs etc in the water jackets??? Seems silly to me but wtf do I know- I’m a retired carpenter…..
@thomasadrian9854 Very common on lots of engines. Tapping through gives OEM lots of options. Bottom tapping...not so much. Have to know your engine.
You know, there's nothing Mr Dactyal can't handle, from small engines to Automobiles. You sir are a man of many talents and a great teacher. Thank you for showing us how to fix stuff over the years
Diesels apparently aren't his cup o tea tho.
Last one i over hauled was in 1971 and it was my brother in law
He loved it 😍
Sure miss him
Hey Taryl, they make a induction heater call a bolt buster made in the good old USA and it work super fast with no flame maybe look in to one. Great job as always crew
Heat and quench !! Amazing the difference when quenched. Struggled for years spinning them off hot. Thanks.
Hell of a job you are doing to preserve that beautiful treasure for future generations to hopefully enjoy great job Taryl…👍👍👍
I love how simple that engineering is!!!!
Excellent, thank you Taryl!
Holy buckets! That thing is awesome! What a cool looking Jeep! Can't wait to see that when that's done. Great job guys!
Man, Taryl, I was yelling at you the whole time you were working on that last stud, “Spray more Kroil!!!”. Get a short breaker and just go back and forth a lot more times! Spray more Kroil!!! 😂 I could feel that stud twisting off from here! You were SOOO lucky! Huge sigh of relief when that last one backed out. You’ve been turning wrenches way more than me so I guess you knew what you were doing! 😉🔧👍
When I’m starting a project the very 1st thing I do is Kroil the hell out of anything that needs to come apart…. Works for me….
I remember as a really little kid, maybe 1950, sitting in the back seat as my GRANDMA!!! drove her Jeep! She was a tough old bird. Canvas top and sides in the Winter every single day in north Jersey driving Bill to Bell Labs. Now my daughter drives a Jeep too. Same genes I guess. I drove one the whole tour in Vietnam and my back has never been the same! 😂
This is what I like about these older machines, you could actually get them to come apart so you could fix them. If that were a new "modern" engine, all of those exhaust studs would have snapped off.
Gotta love old cars, so much room under the hood you can practically jump in and live in there. I love working on old cars as it's a treat, so very simple any shade tree mechanic can work on them and understand how they work. Modern cars good luck it just isn't the same, specialty tools for everything and sensors everywhere with no space to get your hands in to work.
Nice little project even if just doing the bare minimum, i agree i would do a complete tear down over a few months maybe make it a winter project in the off season. Seeing this beauty has survived going on 75 years it really does deserve to be completely restored, give her a chance of going for another 75 years.
Looking forward to part 2....cheers.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Glad to see you’re using the thread chasers we sent!👍
May I suggest smearing a bit of blue RTV silicone on each side of that intake gasket, that may make up for any slight variances.
Also, Eastwood makes great exhaust manifold paint, much better than off-the-shelf stuff at your local auto parts store.
Nice . A 50 cal mounted in back and it could be "Grass Rats Patrol".😂
At 27:30 mark you were working the exhaust/intake bolts, you said " i got 2 nuts there, and 2 nuts here" and i said to myself.." one big nut holding the wrench"
Great save on the manifold.
P.S. love your betty Grable Curly bangs
That oil filter looks just like the one for my Ford 8N tractor..now THAT'S a JEEP...not one of these posh 4 door luxury Wranglers with all the electronics and doodads on them they make now..well, at least they still have real axles on them. Love these old simple, rugged MB's and CJ's...the last Wrangler I would really want would be the TJ..after that, they started getting too modern and complicated...
originally built about 6 miles from my house! great video!!!
Good morning everyone
another good source for old jeeps is MD Juan they have vids on you tube about their factory. they even sell a jeep in a box
My parents had one when i was in junior high it even had a 50 cal mount in the back!! It had a continental redline motor in it!
The valve in the exhaust manifold is called a heat-riser which helps heat up the intake manifold so that when outside temperatures are around 32 degrees that you won't have carburetor icing!!!! The carb will turn into a block of ice and block air flow and it will run rich until the ice melts and everything will be back to normal!!!!
They sure don't make 'em like they used to! That thing's a beast
And there’s you’re buffet!
Tip:. When installing those manifolds, use a molybdenum disulfide based anti seize (moly paste) on the hardware. Someone down the road will thank you for it!
I put anti seize on all my exhaust manifold bolts when I put my cat back together. I may never need to take it apart again, but if I do, I will love myself for it.
@@MaxNafeHorsemanship Exactly. Anyone who has had to deal with old, rusty hardware, or nuts and bolts that are used with dis-similar metals, understands the value of anti-seize. Keep on wrenching, my friend!
Thank you for the heat quench trick saw it on your channel a while back and have been using it ever cents help me this morning getting a bolt off holding a blade on
I enjoyed this video. As someone who has restored a 1948 Ford, I can tell you old vehicles hold all kinds of surprises. I have found old unbelievably shoddy repairs from who knows how long ago. One restoration was enough. The sticking part on the manifold is a heat riser. As the manifold warms up, the heat causes a bimetallic spring to relax and gradually open the choke on the carb. The Jeep setup may be slightly different, but that is a basic description. I kept my fingers crossed hoping you wouldn't break any of the fasteners as you removed the exhaust manifold from the engine. I was relieved when it came off ok.
I Iike the high voice when he says (You're going to change the properties of that metal, blah, blah, blah!) 🤣
metalollogist lol.
Another great one T.
Winter is getting closer
Yay! Manifold off! You quench it with WD40 in comedy! haha j/k Thanks for the show! You're awesome!
@36:00 I was holding my breath literally. Oh man. Hard to get all that warm if you can't run it for a few minutes. Always enjoy your channel Mr. Dactyl. Oh. PB. Yep. Repeatedly. Let it soak. Hope you don't mind me chiming in. Been a fan of the channel for quite a while. It seems like the first video I saw of yours was converting a points ignition over to electronic ignition. Pretty sure that was you. Old troybilt in Alaska several years ago. Ran like a champ.
Those flex head ratchets are a pain in the ass for certain work.
C'mon Man Go you know the thing 😊...You are Right
55:21 That cold start flapper thing is called a heat riser.
The spring you have to install is bi-mechanic, it makes the flap open and close.
And there's your information.
I really Dig the longer videos!
nice my old mate......limey speak......
I work a lot on pre 1920 vehicles.....all exhaust nuts and bolts are replaced with BRASS...even if I have to make them......
Love seeing you work on a Willy.
Thanks for sharing.
Taryl! Swich that fuel filter for a metal one.. it is too close to the manifold and will cause a fire- this is why on old VW beetles they mount the filter in front of the engine by the frame rail, not next to the carb…love your videos!
First time I seen work being done in the new shop, and first time i seen the otf knife. Red. Sweet.
Learned heat and quench in the early 80s from a couple of war era mechanics. Often wondered myself why more tubers use that tried and true method. It’s the American way! Good start on the jeep, I hear the dinner bell in the distance….
Looking good, waiting for part 2
Taryl, It looks like you and I have a shared love for craftsman tools. I have used them for my whole look career. The swivel head 3/8 ratchet spent many hours in my paddies!! Other mechanics have borrowed it and complained about the flexibility. I’m thinking, they have other issues if they can not make that ratchet work for themselves. I also agree, lawnmower over autos any day.
Ps. Workin an ANY Exhaust manifolds sucks!! 😩
I wrench for a living and hate those things. Mac has one that pivots in the middle of the head. A little big for some places, but I'm starting to really like that one.
Hi Taryl. At age 14 I got a 46 CJ-2A in parts and pieces form a cousin. The engine was rebuilt, but sat on the ground for about 5yrs. So he gave it to me and I put it all back together. The only thing; it had a hard time starting with the 6volt battery. It had "The Square Flywheel Syndrome." A 12 volt jump or retarding the ign timing started it easily. It probably needed both a new 6volt battery and a new starter but I tried my hand fixing the starter by undercutting the mica, filing the commutator and brushes square again then cleaned and greased it, to no avail. Eventually I went to J.C. Whitney and bought a manual distributer adjuster. It was just a cable with an thumbwheel to move the cable in and out. It connected to the distributor, and I had to leave the distributor loose. I'd retard the timing to start it then adj the thumb wheel to advance it far enough to run nice. Then we were off to the mud races. Thanks for the memory recall. ben/ michigan
Well i didn't watch enough before i commented on the wobble joint!!! YOU DO HAVE ONE!!😂😂😂
Jeep stands for
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket 😂😂😂😂😂
And I have had good luck heating and quenching with fluid flume
Lol you lived in a jeep because it didn't move
I think I stepped on some ones toes that was not my intention just around here jeeps rust out fast and the price of parts are out of this world. And yes I do know this I am garbage owner
Those were some STRONG studs!
Hi Taryl
metalshaper has a video willys heat riser problems. Like you, with small equipment repair, he to is very good at what he does and that is
Jeeps.
I am a true fan of yours and just trying to help.
Thank you
Chip.
Nice little jeep you got there !
I would have left it 6 volts system. 6 volt alternator is available they are used on 1930’s Model A, you can get negative ground and 6 volt batteries are available.
For that rear manifold nut, I have a short extension, just long enough for the square oñone end and the socket on the other, about an inch long. Might want to get one.
Many engines have bolts and studs that go through into the water jacket. Manifolds, water pumps, timing chain covers and others.
Good job making thing right. I had to do the same thing with my 1955 Willys.... It didn't stop there.... now it's all renewed and runs like a champ. OHV 151 Twin (aka 302)... EFI.
That intake manifold warped section might be a great place for some Taryl putty and then sand the surface flat and use some high temp grey RTV on the manifod side of the gasket.
@47:14 The left most exhaust port isn't rounded. The casting process left it almost square which will interfere with the flow of exhaust gases.
I've used every brand of penetrating fluid there is on old boilers and radiator valve and iron pipes fittings and plugs that can be named old old old faucets connections the old wall mount on iron pipe.. 70 yr old crane valve fitting and old classic cars and old mowers time to time and i have found none
better then Kano Kroil penetrating oil best there is. You can buy cans to fill you spray bottle thats what i do.
Love to see the skill and patience with those stubborn fasteners.
I'm about 2 hours from Aiken. I'm in Inman, SC.
Great job , Sgt. Rizzo!
@19:04 What, do you work with a bunch of squirrels knocking things off the bench??
😂😂
That fuel gauge is not faulty, it's just made for a 6Volt electrical system.
You can fix it with a linear voltage regulator like a LM7806.
Cheers.
The old jeep is more like a tractor than a car. 💪
The old jeep and the Palomino should do a tug of war and a drag race
You are closer than you think with it being a tractor. There was a linkage kit for them plus other options that made them into a tractor. Don’t know how good they would have been at that work though. I think there was a belt pulley too.
Oh man I'd love your shed Taryl!!
And there's your smorgasbord also quenching in oil works really really well
idk about that cars vs mowers thing. i probably do need my head examined for this one lol. fixed up an old john deere. that one i can assure i do need a nut doctor for. it was sitting for a good long while before i got it and i let it sit in the back yard way longer than i should have. everything was rust seized. the worst part was the front spindles. couldn't turn the darned thing. dove one out with a mini sledge. the other i had to weld a nut on top of it and use a bolt to push it out. that mower though resulted in me getting a welder and teaching myself to weld. more like hot glue metal if you ever see my handy work lol.
Cool video Taryl ! Cant wait for part 2 .
Good talent and skills and patience getting frozen bolts out without breaking is a slow process
Amazed none of the manifold studs broke!
Putting 12 V thru a 6V coil can cause it to overreact or burn out. Gauges might read higher than what is correct. Both the dash gauge and the sending unit likely use coils designed for the original 6V. Just something to check if still having problems.
chrysler slant 6 engines had the same shared intake/exhaust manifold setup. that round spring was for a heat riser which helped for cold starts. my 78 corolla had the same shared manifold setup and i was always tightening the bolts.
Yes, I actually remember a very similar setup on my '68 Dodge Dart
That was a common setup for many engines, but lawn mowers don't have them.
On the fuel gauge, I'm not sure how others did things but Ford used a voltage regulator on the back of the dash to control the voltage to the gauges. Worked on a 72 Mustand Mach I that the gauges acted funny. Low oil pressure wa the biggie. With a bit of testing figured out the regulator on the dash was bad. At the time it was a $6 part. Maybe much more today.
Most companies used one. Few gauges were actually 12 volt. I just installed a Ford one in a IHC truck to get the gauges working.
Nice work Taryl! I'm very impressed with your attention to detail. A little different work here but I love it! And "NO Value" is a TRUE statement! And that flapper is called a Heat Riser. Did I miss something? You're in a new shop?
Nice! All it needs now is a machine gun mounted to the back like they had on the TV show Rat Patrol. Awesome video!
I don't miss working on old cars. That "Oh crap what broke" feeling. I suppose one of the benefits of electric cars is they don't have an engine or transmission to get old oily and broken. But they weigh a ton and battery packs are extremely expensive and their range isn't great when the AC is on.
You're doing great with that Darren!
Your gauge problems could possibly be from the fact that they changed the operating voltage from 6 v up to 12 v, you should be able to get a voltage regulator IC to provide 6 v for the gauges
That's Intertainment!!!!!
42:40 Google info on Liberty 🛎️ Bell It has a crack in the Metal because of cooling Metal down to fastThat would be a illustration on the cooling process of Cast Iron
Cool project Taryl! It’s great there is a good source for parts. I know nothing about Jeep’s. After your video, I won’t be able to say that. 😁
Kaiser has nearly everything.
@@jefftheaussie2225 by chance is Kaiser any connection to Dennis Carpenter? The catalog looked similar to a Carpenter catalog.
The spring was part of the Heat Riser which activates and deactivates the choke
Not the choke, that was a manual thing with a cable to the dash. The heat stove was to warm them up quicker, the spring caused the flap inside the manifold to direct exhaust gas around the inlet manifold. When it warmed up the spring also got hot and expanded to open the flap. Exhaust gas then went straight out.
Tarly fixes All definitely fits well because of his abilities to work on anything that is gas powered 😂
Including Junior!
@@chrisbrown7362 You got that one right
Hi 👋 there Taryl what a beautiful Willy Jeep I really like it Taryl 😂
I love ❤️ that jeep