I cannot thank you enough for this video! After years of trying, and too many muslins to count, I now have pants with no excess fabric causing awful diagonal drag lines. I used the first method. Your instructions are clear and easy to follow. I like that you explain the nature of the problem as well as the solution.
Great tips. I've done similar on RTW by unpicking the back waistband from side seam to side seam, and taking a scoop out of the back and re-attach the waistband. You can just tack the waistband in place and try on, before deciding how much of a scoop to take out.
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! I'm wondering why you would need to take off the back waistband when you're scooping the back crotch curve? Thanks so much
Boy oh boy, you are so good!! I have a butt that is almost like a shelf and I went back to sewing particularly because I could never get trousers/ jeans to fit me as I also have a sway back. Nightmare….. but your lessons have really helped me understand what my problems are and how to fix them. I really want to make a pair of trousers that fit really well on my waist and hips but that hang loosely and straight down to the floor at the back. Still working on it but I’m getting closer!! 😂😂😂
I have found the greatest success so far by doing something similar. I slash straight down from the waist about an inch back from crotch curve. Then I slash perpendicular from the inseam. I slide the curve piece straight down and draw small line to connect crotch point to inner thigh. Then I just fill in the little rectangle of blank space at the top waistline. This does make my back curve longer but I need that for full behind anyway. To match to the front I do the same thing or reduce front drop by half and trim or pivot the points to match. It feels like the least disruption to curve and other elements and lets my behind take up space where all that upper back thigh extra fabric was. This also adjusts the vertical position of the inseam without altering the side seam. Have you seen this work before?
That is another way to shift fabric from below the crotch level to above the crotch level... Some times shortening the inseam can cause diagonal wrinkles along the inseam in the back... so it depends on what else is going on with the pattern compared to your body. Here's a tutorial that talks about a too short inseam :) ua-cam.com/video/lrNg7k2QUH8/v-deo.html I also did a tutorial showing how to slide down the back crotch extension ... for some reason, I can't find that one, but I did find one that shows how to lengthen the inseam two ways ... You could use one of these methods to slide the crotch down like I think you're describing :) Hope all this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I am deeply grateful for your generosity in sharing this tip thanks from Brazil. One question only: is there any limit on the second method? I've heard or read that 3/4" is the maximum.
My Pleasure! These adjustments are to fine-tune the fit of your muslin after you've got the crotch in the right spot. If you have a significant amount of excess vertical length on your back leg, look at your side view. If you have diagonal lines running from the front leg going diagonally downward toward the back leg across the side seam - You need to pick up some of the fabric by lowering (scooping) the base of the crotch. This transfers the vertical length from below the crotch to above the crotch. Then to remove it completely, you pleat up the excess length above the crotch across the full hip. Then you can use these adjustments to get rid of another inch of vertical length. Let me know if this makes sense to you, thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jen. I have had great success using this method to remove fabric at the back. Is it feasible that I might need this on the front leg as well? After years of having ill fitting pants, I have used several of your methods to get a better fit. I have a normal length torso as far as I can see in the mirror, but my legs are short. I can't find any videos that mention doing this to the front leg, so I wasn't sure if it was even a thing to do. 😊
That's interesting... I've never tried this on the front leg. It seems to me that if you have excess length in the middle of front leg, this would work the same way! Give it a try (and let me know!!) Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you! I really enjoy your teaching methods. When you talk about excess length, what does that look like on the actual pant? For instance my friend has a vertical line of excess from her crotch to her side seam. I have extra fabric that shows up from the crotch under my butt up to my low hip. These are going in two different directions. Mine is slanted-hers is straight across. How do we know when to do what?
Hi Chris, Can you send me photos of you and your friend so I can see what's going on... THen I can suggest a fit plan for both! jsterndesigns37@gmail.com Thanks Jen
Is it a tilted posture that creates the extra length in the back leg? I've been working on this problem for years and was going to do a "swayback" adjustment on the back leg and add any length needed to true up the seams to the hemline. What do you think of that idea? Thank you for these methods.
Thank you as always for the helpful tips! Question: if I lower the back crotch curve, then do the same to the front to true up the inseam, slice off the extra length at the top, and lengthen the leg so the pants are now not too short, haven’t I just moved the entire pattern down and re-created the original fit issues? Instead of lowering the front crotch curve, should I just add length to the back leg to true up the inseam? I hope that makes sense 😅
That's a great question... If you don't have excess vertical length pooling under your butt, you would make your pants too short. But if there is excess fabric, lowering the crotch (front and back) transfers fabric from below the crotch seam to above it (smoothing the fabric below the crotch). If you end up with too much fabric above the crotch, you can pleat it out to completely remove it from the back leg. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I have extra length in my side seam. I can always pinch out, vertically, at least 2". Do you have any suggestions on how to get rid of that? If it helps to know, I also have a flat butt and fully belly with skinny thighs. No matter how much I grade the side seams, pants don't fit in my thigh, but that is how I noticed I do have too much vertical fabric there so I think I'm adjusting in the wrong direction.
This is going to sound funny... Try putting your pants on backwards to see if that improves the fit. If it does, you can adjust the shapes of your front/back crotch lengths to agree with your shape. Also have your tried starting with a single leg muslin and separate waistband... This can really help you balance the front/back leg before you cut the second leg :) (This will help you get rid of the excess vertical length too!) Hope this helps, thank for fitting along with me.
Quick question: For method 2, would it be possible to avoid having the shorten the front inseam length by horizontally slashing the back pant just below the crotch level line (keeping a pivot point on side seam) and spreading the inseam length lost? Thank you for the video!
I'm so sorry for the delayed response! You can lengthen the inseam back to it's original length by slashing and spreading the inseam after making the L shaped adjustment to lower the crotch curve. It will add a little bit of the vertical length back in though... I would only maintain the inseam if you get diagonal wrinkles along your inseam... Here's a tutorial showing how to tell if you inseam is too short. ua-cam.com/video/lrNg7k2QUH8/v-deo.html Thank you for fitting along with me!
Re: second way to remove back leg length, why not cut a line straight across from inseam to out seam and move the whole pattern piece down instead of just moving a section. Of course the whole waist would be redrawn but if the out-seam is straight in that area wouldn't the outcome be the same. Am I missing something?
:) That's a great question! If you cut all the way across to the side seam, then you're also shortening the side seam. You would then need to shorten the front side seam too. This can work too, if you need to shorten your front side seam.
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for your quick response to my question. Simple, simple. I have to ask myself why I am so dense. When it comes to sewing I guess I will always be the student. Thankfully there are experts like yourself to help. It is appreciated. I'm going to go operate on my muslin now........
This is definitely a problem I have. Do I try to scoop out the crotch first to see if it makes a difference? Sequence is the other issue I have. How do you decide which to do first. I feel like when I try one it alters something else ugh.
Hi Isha, Yes, that is the challenge... When you make one change, it does affect other things. The process of lowering the crotch curve & picking up fabric under your butt are two ways to shift fabric from under crotch level to above it or eliminating it completely. You can lower the crotch and then pleat out excess above the crotch Or you can pleat out above the crotch (giving yourself a wedgie)... Then lower the curve. Scooping the crotch is slightly different than lowering it. When you scoop the crotch curve, you're actually creating more room to sit down by lengthening the back crotch ... the more you scoop, the longer the back rise would be. To tell if you need to scoop vs. lower, sit down in your muslin and see if it slides down. If it slides, you need more room. If it doesn't slide, you have enough room. ...sounds like a good topic for an upcoming video :) meantime, let me know if this helps!
@@JSternDesigns Thank you i sure will. I have made several adjustments to simplicity 1696, but it just seemed to get worse. So I'm starting over. I will let you know.
So Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I have a Pants Sloper that's designed to fit based on where your fullest hip is at CB and a companion fitting workbook. Here's a link to it. jsterndesigns.com/product/happy-non-stretch-pants-pattern-workbook/
I cannot thank you enough for this video! After years of trying, and too many muslins to count, I now have pants with no excess fabric causing awful diagonal drag lines. I used the first method. Your instructions are clear and easy to follow. I like that you explain the nature of the problem as well as the solution.
I'm so happy to hear! ...and I apologize for the delay in responding to you! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you very much. This is an extremely helpful video for my saggy pants problem!
Glad it helped! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great tips. I've done similar on RTW by unpicking the back waistband from side seam to side seam, and taking a scoop out of the back and re-attach the waistband. You can just tack the waistband in place and try on, before deciding how much of a scoop to take out.
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! I'm wondering why you would need to take off the back waistband when you're scooping the back crotch curve? Thanks so much
Boy oh boy, you are so good!! I have a butt that is almost like a shelf and I went back to sewing particularly because I could never get trousers/ jeans to fit me as I also have a sway back. Nightmare….. but your lessons have really helped me understand what my problems are and how to fix them. I really want to make a pair of trousers that fit really well on my waist and hips but that hang loosely and straight down to the floor at the back. Still working on it but I’m getting closer!! 😂😂😂
So happy to hear!! Thanks for fitting along with me
WOW those are really nice hats. I need this video. Thanks!
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! Happy to help, Thanks so much
Thank you for sharing this information. Like your teaching methods very much. Looking forward to the Friday clear bag tutorial.
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! Happy to help, Thanks so much
I have found the greatest success so far by doing something similar. I slash straight down from the waist about an inch back from crotch curve. Then I slash perpendicular from the inseam. I slide the curve piece straight down and draw small line to connect crotch point to inner thigh. Then I just fill in the little rectangle of blank space at the top waistline. This does make my back curve longer but I need that for full behind anyway. To match to the front I do the same thing or reduce front drop by half and trim or pivot the points to match. It feels like the least disruption to curve and other elements and lets my behind take up space where all that upper back thigh extra fabric was. This also adjusts the vertical position of the inseam without altering the side seam. Have you seen this work before?
That is another way to shift fabric from below the crotch level to above the crotch level... Some times shortening the inseam can cause diagonal wrinkles along the inseam in the back... so it depends on what else is going on with the pattern compared to your body. Here's a tutorial that talks about a too short inseam :) ua-cam.com/video/lrNg7k2QUH8/v-deo.html I also did a tutorial showing how to slide down the back crotch extension ... for some reason, I can't find that one, but I did find one that shows how to lengthen the inseam two ways ... You could use one of these methods to slide the crotch down like I think you're describing :) Hope all this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great tips, and your room looks amazing. I'm excited about your class on making a clear zippered bag this Friday ❤️
:) Thank you... I'm excited too!
I am deeply grateful for your generosity in sharing this tip thanks from Brazil. One question only: is there any limit on the second method? I've heard or read that 3/4" is the maximum.
My Pleasure! These adjustments are to fine-tune the fit of your muslin after you've got the crotch in the right spot. If you have a significant amount of excess vertical length on your back leg, look at your side view. If you have diagonal lines running from the front leg going diagonally downward toward the back leg across the side seam - You need to pick up some of the fabric by lowering (scooping) the base of the crotch. This transfers the vertical length from below the crotch to above the crotch. Then to remove it completely, you pleat up the excess length above the crotch across the full hip. Then you can use these adjustments to get rid of another inch of vertical length. Let me know if this makes sense to you, thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for taking time to answer my question. I get It and It was exactly what I needed to know.
Hi Jen. I have had great success using this method to remove fabric at the back. Is it feasible that I might need this on the front leg as well? After years of having ill fitting pants, I have used several of your methods to get a better fit. I have a normal length torso as far as I can see in the mirror, but my legs are short. I can't find any videos that mention doing this to the front leg, so I wasn't sure if it was even a thing to do. 😊
That's interesting... I've never tried this on the front leg. It seems to me that if you have excess length in the middle of front leg, this would work the same way! Give it a try (and let me know!!) Thanks for fitting along with me
Love your channel.
Thank you! and thank you for watching!!
Thank you! I really enjoy your teaching methods. When you talk about excess length, what does that look like on the actual pant? For instance my friend has a vertical line of excess from her crotch to her side seam. I have extra fabric that shows up from the crotch under my butt up to my low hip. These are going in two different directions. Mine is slanted-hers is straight across. How do we know when to do what?
Hi Chris, Can you send me photos of you and your friend so I can see what's going on... THen I can suggest a fit plan for both! jsterndesigns37@gmail.com Thanks Jen
Excellent information!vThanks.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Is it a tilted posture that creates the extra length in the back leg? I've been working on this problem for years and was going to do a "swayback" adjustment on the back leg and add any length needed to true up the seams to the hemline. What do you think of that idea? Thank you for these methods.
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! For a tilted waistline, you are going to shorten the front and lengthen the back rise.
If we need a large adjustment, could we do both adjustments in smaller amounts?
Yes! Spitting up the significant amount is less invasive (as long as you're not adding too much to the upper thigh.) Thanks for watching!
In my case, I'd be removing length from back thigh. :)@@JSternDesigns
Thank you as always for the helpful tips! Question: if I lower the back crotch curve, then do the same to the front to true up the inseam, slice off the extra length at the top, and lengthen the leg so the pants are now not too short, haven’t I just moved the entire pattern down and re-created the original fit issues? Instead of lowering the front crotch curve, should I just add length to the back leg to true up the inseam? I hope that makes sense 😅
That's a great question... If you don't have excess vertical length pooling under your butt, you would make your pants too short. But if there is excess fabric, lowering the crotch (front and back) transfers fabric from below the crotch seam to above it (smoothing the fabric below the crotch). If you end up with too much fabric above the crotch, you can pleat it out to completely remove it from the back leg. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Me gustan sus explicaciones pero me encataria que subtitulara en español, muchas gracias
I have extra length in my side seam. I can always pinch out, vertically, at least 2". Do you have any suggestions on how to get rid of that? If it helps to know, I also have a flat butt and fully belly with skinny thighs. No matter how much I grade the side seams, pants don't fit in my thigh, but that is how I noticed I do have too much vertical fabric there so I think I'm adjusting in the wrong direction.
This is going to sound funny... Try putting your pants on backwards to see if that improves the fit. If it does, you can adjust the shapes of your front/back crotch lengths to agree with your shape. Also have your tried starting with a single leg muslin and separate waistband... This can really help you balance the front/back leg before you cut the second leg :) (This will help you get rid of the excess vertical length too!) Hope this helps, thank for fitting along with me.
Quick question: For method 2, would it be possible to avoid having the shorten the front inseam length by horizontally slashing the back pant just below the crotch level line (keeping a pivot point on side seam) and spreading the inseam length lost? Thank you for the video!
I'm so sorry for the delayed response! You can lengthen the inseam back to it's original length by slashing and spreading the inseam after making the L shaped adjustment to lower the crotch curve. It will add a little bit of the vertical length back in though... I would only maintain the inseam if you get diagonal wrinkles along your inseam... Here's a tutorial showing how to tell if you inseam is too short. ua-cam.com/video/lrNg7k2QUH8/v-deo.html Thank you for fitting along with me!
Re: second way to remove back leg length, why not cut a line straight across from inseam to out seam and move the whole pattern piece down instead of just moving a section. Of course the whole waist would be redrawn but if the out-seam is straight in that area wouldn't the outcome be the same. Am I missing something?
:) That's a great question! If you cut all the way across to the side seam, then you're also shortening the side seam. You would then need to shorten the front side seam too. This can work too, if you need to shorten your front side seam.
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for your quick response to my question. Simple, simple. I have to ask myself why I am so dense. When it comes to sewing I guess I will always be the student. Thankfully there are experts like yourself to help. It is appreciated. I'm going to go operate on my muslin now........
This is definitely a problem I have. Do I try to scoop out the crotch first to see if it makes a difference? Sequence is the other issue I have. How do you decide which to do first. I feel like when I try one it alters something else ugh.
Hi Isha, Yes, that is the challenge... When you make one change, it does affect other things. The process of lowering the crotch curve & picking up fabric under your butt are two ways to shift fabric from under crotch level to above it or eliminating it completely. You can lower the crotch and then pleat out excess above the crotch Or you can pleat out above the crotch (giving yourself a wedgie)... Then lower the curve. Scooping the crotch is slightly different than lowering it. When you scoop the crotch curve, you're actually creating more room to sit down by lengthening the back crotch ... the more you scoop, the longer the back rise would be. To tell if you need to scoop vs. lower, sit down in your muslin and see if it slides down. If it slides, you need more room. If it doesn't slide, you have enough room. ...sounds like a good topic for an upcoming video :) meantime, let me know if this helps!
@@JSternDesigns Thank you i sure will. I have made several adjustments to simplicity 1696, but it just seemed to get worse. So I'm starting over. I will let you know.
I'm trying to join the facebook group but facebook says that your group is unavailable or secret. Do I need an invite to join?
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! I'm sorry, here's the correct link to my FB group facebook.com/groups/2844012669147142 Thanks so much
Do you have any book reccommendations for pants fitting
So Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I have a Pants Sloper that's designed to fit based on where your fullest hip is at CB and a companion fitting workbook. Here's a link to it. jsterndesigns.com/product/happy-non-stretch-pants-pattern-workbook/
🔥🧿👏👍👋
:)