Wow! an "ahah" moment! So well explained! I love your logical approach of such importants elements you need to understand, but are never explained. THANK YOU!!!
I’m sure this would make sense for all the seasoned sewers out there but I’m so confused I struggle so much with this I will have to watch over and over again to understand. Watched so many videos in this and you seem to be the one with really detailed explanations and so you have a new subscriber but im still confused lol
Im more on the flatter side so i just never get that good fit especially in that back center seam, stresses me out so then I give up, but I won't give up :)
Another great (and relevant!) video - thank you! I would love if you were to do a video about crotch depth and how it relates to crotch curve on the paper pattern, front and back. Do you ever use this measurement? Or thigh depth?
I have spent an enormous amount of time trying to measure crotch length and depth on both my (and my students) pattern pieces and my muslins. After all that careful work, This crotch seam is wrapped around a body that changes shape and length depending on how it's positioned... Then I met Ruth Collins, the designer of Top Down Center Out & I've jumped ship from measuring to adding extra length above the waistline to go along with the extra safety side seam allowances. The extra above the waistline allows you to raise or lower it until you get the front and back crotch in the right spot so that the fabric hangs the best. Then I'm using traditional pants fitting adjustments to fine-tune the rest of the fit of the pants! Here's my playlist on Top Down Center Out to get you started! ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK.html ...Going forward, I'm calling my method "The Whole Scoop ~Multi-Method Pants Fitting because I'm overhauling the TDCO process and I don't want to distract from how great that method is for wide leg pants. Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for the tutorial, especially the information about the angle of the centre front and back seams. I've been wondering about this and struggling to get my horizontal balance lines straight. Do you use HBLs? Looking forward to your next tutorial. Could you show how to remove excess fabric from below the seat?
So sorry I didn't see your question earlier. I do use HBLs to fit pants. They can tell you where the pants has extra or not enough fabric. Here's a link to a tutorial showing how to remove fabric below the seat. ua-cam.com/video/FTk27flYhQM/v-deo.html
I have always have had trouble making pants because of lordosis, an inward curve in my spine which makes my butt sticks out. I have always added length to the pattern. the scoping really helps. I always get excess in the front of a pants. I shorten the front seam, but It don't help all the way. Store bought pants are really awful. the pull down in the back live a ve and have way too much front crotch length. hiips tilt backward, this is an awful body type. lol
Thank you for a very informative video! My question has to do with the crotch fitting. In days gone by, a gusset might have been added to the crotch area for extra room in the thighs. Is that an alternative to your alterations and how might that affect your other adjustments in the center fronts and back? Thank you.
Hi Margaret, You could definitely add a gusset, but, for non stretch pants women's pants, I prefer to play with the width of the crotch wedges. To accommodate a gusset, I would probably trim off some of the length of the crotch points. If you decide to go with a gusset... create a diamond shape and then smooth the side points to curves (much easier to sew). Hope that answers your question ... Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your detail adjusting for real body shapes, not designer-perfect geometry! I kept thinking "pelvic floor" as you were describing the space between the inner upper thighs against the crotch ... but that's not really accurate either. Maybe just using the terms "crotch width" & "crotch depth" would make explaining easier? Then I realized that the crotch width is created from the curve (often just a diagonal) below the crotch point to the inseam, but the literal crotch depth is created by the upper curve of the crotch point. Even though we typically call the parabola from the cf waist, down around to cb waist the "crotch depth", we should really be calling it "crotch length", no? Sorry if my word-salad seems nit-picky. I just want it to be easier to communicate clearly on all these crazy shapes & voids that we're constructed of. ;-)
Pelvic Floor also seems like a good term for the space between your legs, both front to back and side to side. But, since I did this video tutorial, I have discovered the Top Down Center Out Method of Pants Fitting... This method is amazing, and eliminates much of the body measurements I've been using to fit pants. I've organized these videos in a playlist, here's a link so you can check it out! ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK.html Thank you for fitting along with me
Fantastic video! It seems to me that you didn't manage to add the additional 3.5 inches to the crotch curve and crotch point in the back. As someone who needs to add that much, I'd be interested in understanding what you eventually did.
I got close... then I tried them on to see how the crotch fit. Then I repeated this adjustment on my trued up, adjusted pattern to get the rest. Sorry for the delayed response.
@@JSternDesigns When I do that, I end up with bagginess at side seam and tightness across butt. I want to send you a picture of a pair of shorts that show a series of wrinkles along the crotch curve. Do you have an email?
4/29/19 To J Stern Designs please do a video on how to install grommets on a blouse. Do a video on how to rub off a pair of palazzo pants. Do a video on how to raise a v-neck on a pattern. Thanks
Your videos are very clear, thank you.
Thanks so much! and thanks for watching
Wow! an "ahah" moment! So well explained! I love your logical approach of such importants elements you need to understand, but are never explained. THANK YOU!!!
So happy to help... Keep me posted if you need more help
I’m sure this would make sense for all the seasoned sewers out there but I’m so confused I struggle so much with this I will have to watch over and over again to understand. Watched so many videos in this and you seem to be the one with really detailed explanations and so you have a new subscriber but im still confused lol
Thank you so much for Subscribing to my channel! As you watch along, please let me know what your questions are & I’ll help you!
Im more on the flatter side so i just never get that good fit especially in that back center seam, stresses me out so then I give up, but I won't give up :)
Another great (and relevant!) video - thank you! I would love if you were to do a video about crotch depth and how it relates to crotch curve on the paper pattern, front and back. Do you ever use this measurement? Or thigh depth?
I have spent an enormous amount of time trying to measure crotch length and depth on both my (and my students) pattern pieces and my muslins. After all that careful work, This crotch seam is wrapped around a body that changes shape and length depending on how it's positioned... Then I met Ruth Collins, the designer of Top Down Center Out & I've jumped ship from measuring to adding extra length above the waistline to go along with the extra safety side seam allowances. The extra above the waistline allows you to raise or lower it until you get the front and back crotch in the right spot so that the fabric hangs the best. Then I'm using traditional pants fitting adjustments to fine-tune the rest of the fit of the pants! Here's my playlist on Top Down Center Out to get you started! ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK.html ...Going forward, I'm calling my method "The Whole Scoop ~Multi-Method Pants Fitting because I'm overhauling the TDCO process and I don't want to distract from how great that method is for wide leg pants. Thanks for fitting along with me
Brilliant...Great teacher!....thank you
thanks Kathee & thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Your info very helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
This is amazing! Thank you for the clear instructions!
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! Thanks so much
Very good tutorial with info I never heard of, it's a pity it has so low views
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! Happy to help, Thanks so much
Thanks for the tutorial, especially the information about the angle of the centre front and back seams. I've been wondering about this and struggling to get my horizontal balance lines straight. Do you use HBLs? Looking forward to your next tutorial. Could you show how to remove excess fabric from below the seat?
So sorry I didn't see your question earlier. I do use HBLs to fit pants. They can tell you where the pants has extra or not enough fabric. Here's a link to a tutorial showing how to remove fabric below the seat. ua-cam.com/video/FTk27flYhQM/v-deo.html
I have always have had trouble making pants because of lordosis, an inward curve in my spine which makes my butt sticks out. I have always added length to the pattern. the scoping really helps. I always get excess in the front of a pants. I shorten the front seam, but It don't help all the way. Store bought pants are really awful. the pull down in the back live a ve and have way too much front crotch length. hiips tilt backward, this is an awful body type. lol
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to Help, and thank you for following along with me
Thank you for a very informative video! My question has to do with the crotch fitting. In days gone by, a gusset might have been added to the crotch area for extra room in the thighs. Is that an alternative to your alterations and how might that affect your other adjustments in the center fronts and back? Thank you.
Hi Margaret, You could definitely add a gusset, but, for non stretch pants women's pants, I prefer to play with the width of the crotch wedges. To accommodate a gusset, I would probably trim off some of the length of the crotch points. If you decide to go with a gusset... create a diamond shape and then smooth the side points to curves (much easier to sew). Hope that answers your question ... Thanks for watching!
J Stern Designs Thank you!
Thank you for your detail adjusting for real body shapes, not designer-perfect geometry!
I kept thinking "pelvic floor" as you were describing the space between the inner upper thighs against the crotch ... but that's not really accurate either. Maybe just using the terms "crotch width" & "crotch depth" would make explaining easier? Then I realized that the crotch width is created from the curve (often just a diagonal) below the crotch point to the inseam, but the literal crotch depth is created by the upper curve of the crotch point. Even though we typically call the parabola from the cf waist, down around to cb waist the "crotch depth", we should really be calling it "crotch length", no?
Sorry if my word-salad seems nit-picky. I just want it to be easier to communicate clearly on all these crazy shapes & voids that we're constructed of. ;-)
Pelvic Floor also seems like a good term for the space between your legs, both front to back and side to side. But, since I did this video tutorial, I have discovered the Top Down Center Out Method of Pants Fitting... This method is amazing, and eliminates much of the body measurements I've been using to fit pants. I've organized these videos in a playlist, here's a link so you can check it out! ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK.html Thank you for fitting along with me
Fantastic video! It seems to me that you didn't manage to add the additional 3.5 inches to the crotch curve and crotch point in the back. As someone who needs to add that much, I'd be interested in understanding what you eventually did.
I got close... then I tried them on to see how the crotch fit. Then I repeated this adjustment on my trued up, adjusted pattern to get the rest. Sorry for the delayed response.
When scooping more from a crotch curve, where do I add back the fabric that was removed?
Along the side seams to add to the horizontal ease.
@@JSternDesigns When I do that, I end up with bagginess at side seam and tightness across butt. I want to send you a picture of a pair of shorts that show a series of wrinkles along the crotch curve. Do you have an email?
4/29/19 To J Stern Designs please do a video on how to install grommets on a
blouse. Do a video on how to rub off a pair of palazzo pants. Do a video on how
to raise a v-neck on a pattern. Thanks
I'm so sorry I didn't see your comment earlier. I'm adding these topics to my list of upcoming video tutorials! Thanks for watching,