This was really helpful! Thank you for showing the photos, that was really really informative. A picture is truly worth 1000 words :-) also, thank you to your students for volunteering and letting their pictures be shown!
Adjusting the crotch is tricky... sometimes you need to scoop... sometimes you don't. And, if you do need to scoop the crotch, that doesn't always mean that you need to scoop down lower. (I think that's why scooping has gotten some "bad press". Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Do you have any suggestions for a full knee adjustment? My pants keep getting caught at the knee. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Great vid, thanks. After fitting my Crotch length became too lengthy even though I have solve the creases. Can I just lower the CL about 2cm than the front CL? I see some of the patterns do teach to lower the back CL, is it for the this purposes?
Lowering the crotch level will make the rise longer not shorter (because you're moving the crotch farther away from the waistline). Is your crotch length too long at the top waistline or is the crotch to long at the base of the crotch extensions creating excess ease along the inseam? ...Don't reply to this comment, start a new comment so I'm sure to see it! Thanks for fitting along with me
You are the queen of pants fitting. ❤❤❤I am trying to get the a basic pants pattern to fit me as my go to pants block. I am not 100% there yet but coming closer with every video I watch from you! ;) Thank you so much for your experienced advices!😘
@@JSternDesigns Thank you! That is so kind of you! I am trying one more thing and if that doesn't work I will beg you for help :) I have pictures of 6 mockups. Would you like me to mail these to you so you can maybe use them to show fitting issues? You may use them in your videos if you want to.
@@JSternDesigns Dear J. (Jen?) I tried to reach out to you via mail to get help with my fitting.. I tried sending you first a pdf then jpg but unfortunately I received a mailer daemon twice. How can I reach out to you? I don't do facebook.
I’m curious how one would go about determining between scooping in or down (lowering the curve) on skinny jeans or leggings where the diagonal lines might not be evident due to the stretch and snug fit? I have fabric pooling under my rear with most ready to wear stretchy skinny jeans and am trying to figure out if it’s from a too deep crotch or too much fabric vertically in the inseam.
With Skinny Jeans or Pants that have a snug fit, you might not have room to scoop in (the back of the curve) because it will make them too snug through the hip. You can scoop down vertically to pick up fabric under your butt. If you feel like the upper thigh is too loose, that's when I would try sewing deeper along the inseam (and across the crotch points) to take in the excess. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for the video! I'm making a pair of pants with a new-to-me pattern and measured that the crotch depth (horizontal space) is 3 cm less than my body measurement. When I make the adjustment how much ease should I provide for?
My pleasure! The amount of ease you need depends on whether or not you are working with stretch fabric and the size pattern you're working with. I add up to an inch on my size 14 pants patterns. you are a smaller pants size, a little less, if you're a larger pant size, it could be a little more. If Remember to check your upper thigh measurement. If there is already enough ease in the leg, you can't add to the crotch points to extend the horizontal space because you'll be adding unneeded ease in the leg. You can also scoop the back of the crotch curves making them a little deeper horizontally to add to the horizontal space. Hope this helps!
I feel like this topic is a struggle for me as for some reason I just have a tough time visualizing the geometry playing out here. I think I’m having problems the problem you mention with drag lines from the front going towards the back but its almost as if the leg is twisting around to the back and then up, with the fabric being pulled up into my bum (for lack of a prettier description). The result is the legs are twisted and the inseam is higher at the hem. Does this mean I need to scoop plus add additional horizontal length? Or am I off target here?
It sounds like it might be easier to take a step back... Have you tried working with a single leg muslin and a separate waistband? This method (laid out in Threads Magazine Issue #218 "Practical Pants Fitting" by R. Collins) allows you to balance the front/back leg by adding extra fitting allowances so you can let things in and out and up and down... I've added fit allowances to the inseams as well so you can adjust both ends of the crotch seam. Check out my trouble shooting series... This explains how to pick a size, adjust for body specific adjustments, prep the pattern pieces & cut and sew the muslin. ua-cam.com/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/v-deo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Would I do this same thing if the muslin was tight across my hip area and had the same folds under my butt? I have a pattern that has been muslined and it was pretty tight across my hips but had the same folds in the back crotch. The front was perfect.
If you see diagonal wrinkles across the side seam pointing down toward the back leg you have too much vertical length on the back leg... Lowering the base of the crotch will pick up fabric below the crotch seam. I would try letting out the side seams first to see if reducing the snugness allows the fabric to hang better. Then try playing with the shape of the crotch... It may be that you need to scoop the back of the crotch curve (instead of lowering the base of the crotch. Check this tutorial out: ua-cam.com/video/MZ96dKMeIp8/v-deo.html Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
What if the largest part of the full butt curve needs more vertical length and the legs need less? If a back extension can't be made long enough, can more extension be added to the front to help the back?
Adding to the front crotch extension will add to the legs as well... the best option is to slash the pattern across the full hip and spread the straight part of the back crotch curve as shown in this tutorial.... Hope that helps!
Scooping down along the back crotch does not affect the grainline. Adding to the crotch points does not affect the grainline. If you do a "wedge" shaped adjustment... (Meaning you slash across the pattern, create a pivot at one seam edge and spread the other side) You will need to true up the grainline. The grainline is established from the center of the leg from hem to knee. Then extend straight up to the waistline.
I've been watching a bunch of your videos on crotch fittings trying to figure out how to save my jumpsuit! I removed some length in the bodice to better fit my short torso, but now the crotch seam on the pants is way too high -- I can barely lift my arms above my shoulders, let alone sit, without feeling like I'm going to be split in half up the middle! It's made of 4 panels and the pants are very loose fitting, but since there's no waist seam I can't add any length back to the bodice to lower the crotch. Do you think that adding a pretty low scoop would be enough to fix this? I'm a very beginner sewer and I really love this jumpsuit so far but I absolutely cannot wear it the way it is right now :(
If you scoop the entire base of the crotch, you will lower it... adding length. You could also cut the jumpsuit where the waistline would be and add a strip of fabric to lengthen the rise. Hope these suggestions help!
That's a great question! I feel like "Scoop" has gotten a bad reputation in pants fitting... some even feel like you should never do it! In this case, scooping refers to lowering the base of crotch curve to pick up excess vertical length that's under crotch level. The curve is essentially the same shape it's just lowered down a little bit. You may also need to add to the curve by extending crotch curves or scooping out the back of the back crotch curve to make more sitting room (if your muslin slides down when you sit). Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I’ve watched this a couple times, because I have a problem with my pants being too tight between the middle of the high hip and the low hip. I guess around the top of the crack line…lol. I like snug pants. The model with muslin, see those pants just look way too big, for my taste, anyway. I can get the rest pretty much the way I like, except for being too snug across that area. I also have a very short front crotch and a very long back crotch. 10. 5 and 17. Makes getting a good waistline, difficult. Two pairs I’ve made pull down in back. One pair fits well, except that butt area.
You can let the side seams out through your high/low hip to make them a little less snug. To fit the crotch, shorten the front rise at the base of the zipper seam allowance. Here's a tutorial showing two ways to do that: ua-cam.com/video/vinYE0OwTwc/v-deo.html Then lengthen the back rise to make more sitting room so they don't pull down. You can slash the back leg pattern just above the back crotch curve and spread the CB seam to add length. You can also extend the back crotch point to lengthen the back rise (If you need more room along your upper thigh) Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
I bought some cheap scrubs and they are basically box cut (I'm not a sewist, the scrubs just look square) do you have a video on how I could make them fit better so I don't look like the Michelin Man in them?
:) If you're talking about the scrub top.. you can take the side seams in at the waistline to create some shape there... If the sleeve is hanging off your shoulder, you can use a seam ripper to take out the top of the sleeve cap about 6" down from the shoulder seam front and back and shorten the shoulder seam a little bit to bring the sleeve onto your shoulder.. Here's a tutorial for that. ua-cam.com/video/OF1FFZvPgVk/v-deo.html
So I have made workout leggings that are too short in the back. Don’t know if I just need to extend the length by adding to the top of the back crotch seam or should I scoop. Should I try one before the other? Thanks.
It depends on where they are too short... If they slide down when you sit, you need a deeper hole to sit in (try scooping). If they do not slide, but you're not comfortable where the back waistband sits, you need to add to the top of the back leg at CB to make it higher. Hope that helps!
If you already have enough ease along the upper thigh... you can either scoop the back of the back of the back crotch curve to widen the crotch shelf... You can also slash the leg right above the crotch curve and spread the CB seam edge to add length to the back rise. Hope this helps!
I need to fix jeans with bad crotch problem. Smile face front and wrinkles below ass. Is there any simpler way for a person who gets confused by the cutting into patterns and graphs. My intellect is not on par with yours.
Yes, the cost is $250 for unlimited zoom, text and email help to fit your pants. I usually spend several one-on-one hours with each student, working on their pants until they are happy. :)
Phenominal tutorials on the toughest thing to master in sewing: Pant fitting! Thank you so very much for your awesome explanations & demonstrations!
:) My Pleasure! Pants Fitting is my No. 1 Passion! Thanks for watching
I've never found anyone making videos as helpful as you! Thanks so much☺💕
Wow, I really appreciate that! Thank you for fitting along with me
This was really helpful! Thank you for showing the photos, that was really really informative. A picture is truly worth 1000 words :-) also, thank you to your students for volunteering and letting their pictures be shown!
Glad it was helpful! ...and I do feel blessed to have students who are willing to share their photos! Thanks for fitting along with me
What an excellent explanation! Thank you! Fantastic that you explain the two different situations and comparing them so well.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thank you. I’ve tried to eliminate this problem, unsuccessfully. You’re always so helpful!
Send me so pics of your latest muslin and let's see if we can work it out!!
Great point i was searching about it, Thanks so much 🙏
Adjusting the crotch is tricky... sometimes you need to scoop... sometimes you don't. And, if you do need to scoop the crotch, that doesn't always mean that you need to scoop down lower. (I think that's why scooping has gotten some "bad press". Thanks for watching
Thank you! This information is getting me closer to cracking the code of perfect fitting pants 👍
So happy to hear! Keep me posted if you get stuck!
Thank you so much for this one! I think this fitting video might be the answer I'm looking for!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for fitting along with me
Thank you so very much for addressing this issue. This was so very helpful!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
@@JSternDesigns Do you have any suggestions for a full knee adjustment? My pants keep getting caught at the knee. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It's very useful point
I'm so happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for a very clear explanation.
You are welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you, Jen! I always look forward to your tips, especially if it has to do with pants.
So glad! Thank you for fitting along with me!
This video is so helpful! Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Thank you for a great explanation.
My Pleasure, thank you for fitting along with me!
Great vid, thanks.
After fitting my Crotch length became too lengthy even though I have solve the creases. Can I just lower the CL about 2cm than the front CL? I see some of the patterns do teach to lower the back CL, is it for the this purposes?
Lowering the crotch level will make the rise longer not shorter (because you're moving the crotch farther away from the waistline). Is your crotch length too long at the top waistline or is the crotch to long at the base of the crotch extensions creating excess ease along the inseam? ...Don't reply to this comment, start a new comment so I'm sure to see it! Thanks for fitting along with me
Very good tutorial!
Thanks so much!
You are the queen of pants fitting. ❤❤❤I am trying to get the a basic pants pattern to fit me as my go to pants block. I am not 100% there yet but coming closer with every video I watch from you! ;) Thank you so much for your experienced advices!😘
Thank you so much! ...and keep me posted if you have any specific questions on your way to the finish line! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thank you! That is so kind of you! I am trying one more thing and if that doesn't work I will beg you for help :) I have pictures of 6 mockups. Would you like me to mail these to you so you can maybe use them to show fitting issues? You may use them in your videos if you want to.
@@JSternDesigns Dear J. (Jen?) I tried to reach out to you via mail to get help with my fitting.. I tried sending you first a pdf then jpg but unfortunately I received a mailer daemon twice. How can I reach out to you? I don't do facebook.
I’m curious how one would go about determining between scooping in or down (lowering the curve) on skinny jeans or leggings where the diagonal lines might not be evident due to the stretch and snug fit? I have fabric pooling under my rear with most ready to wear stretchy skinny jeans and am trying to figure out if it’s from a too deep crotch or too much fabric vertically in the inseam.
With Skinny Jeans or Pants that have a snug fit, you might not have room to scoop in (the back of the curve) because it will make them too snug through the hip. You can scoop down vertically to pick up fabric under your butt. If you feel like the upper thigh is too loose, that's when I would try sewing deeper along the inseam (and across the crotch points) to take in the excess. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for the video! I'm making a pair of pants with a new-to-me pattern and measured that the crotch depth (horizontal space) is 3 cm less than my body measurement. When I make the adjustment how much ease should I provide for?
My pleasure! The amount of ease you need depends on whether or not you are working with stretch fabric and the size pattern you're working with. I add up to an inch on my size 14 pants patterns. you are a smaller pants size, a little less, if you're a larger pant size, it could be a little more. If Remember to check your upper thigh measurement. If there is already enough ease in the leg, you can't add to the crotch points to extend the horizontal space because you'll be adding unneeded ease in the leg. You can also scoop the back of the crotch curves making them a little deeper horizontally to add to the horizontal space. Hope this helps!
I do the cut and pivot to add more length to my rise. Plus, I have a dropped butt, so I do deepen the curve by 1/4”.
I feel like this topic is a struggle for me as for some reason I just have a tough time visualizing the geometry playing out here. I think I’m having problems the problem you mention with drag lines from the front going towards the back but its almost as if the leg is twisting around to the back and then up, with the fabric being pulled up into my bum (for lack of a prettier description). The result is the legs are twisted and the inseam is higher at the hem. Does this mean I need to scoop plus add additional horizontal length? Or am I off target here?
It sounds like it might be easier to take a step back... Have you tried working with a single leg muslin and a separate waistband? This method (laid out in Threads Magazine Issue #218 "Practical Pants Fitting" by R. Collins) allows you to balance the front/back leg by adding extra fitting allowances so you can let things in and out and up and down... I've added fit allowances to the inseams as well so you can adjust both ends of the crotch seam. Check out my trouble shooting series... This explains how to pick a size, adjust for body specific adjustments, prep the pattern pieces & cut and sew the muslin. ua-cam.com/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/v-deo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
so helpful thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Would I do this same thing if the muslin was tight across my hip area and had the same folds under my butt? I have a pattern that has been muslined and it was pretty tight across my hips but had the same folds in the back crotch. The front was perfect.
If you see diagonal wrinkles across the side seam pointing down toward the back leg you have too much vertical length on the back leg... Lowering the base of the crotch will pick up fabric below the crotch seam. I would try letting out the side seams first to see if reducing the snugness allows the fabric to hang better. Then try playing with the shape of the crotch... It may be that you need to scoop the back of the crotch curve (instead of lowering the base of the crotch. Check this tutorial out: ua-cam.com/video/MZ96dKMeIp8/v-deo.html Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
What if the largest part of the full butt curve needs more vertical length and the legs need less?
If a back extension can't be made long enough, can more extension be added to the front to help the back?
Adding to the front crotch extension will add to the legs as well... the best option is to slash the pattern across the full hip and spread the straight part of the back crotch curve as shown in this tutorial.... Hope that helps!
Fiquei mto feliz por ser legendado em português adoro seus videos
hey im making some jeans right now. is there a rule on how much the higher the backpiece (at center fold) should be than the center front ?
Are you talking about the height of the back rise vs the front rise (waistband)?
Hi I hope you are doing well kindly share with us properly jeans pants fitting pattern how to create
I am well, thank you! I will put jeans on my list of upcoming topics! Thanks for watching
Do you have to true up the gain line after these types of adjustments?
Grain line
Scooping down along the back crotch does not affect the grainline. Adding to the crotch points does not affect the grainline. If you do a "wedge" shaped adjustment... (Meaning you slash across the pattern, create a pivot at one seam edge and spread the other side) You will need to true up the grainline. The grainline is established from the center of the leg from hem to knee. Then extend straight up to the waistline.
Gain line- Freudian slip
Very helpful!
Thank you!
I've been watching a bunch of your videos on crotch fittings trying to figure out how to save my jumpsuit! I removed some length in the bodice to better fit my short torso, but now the crotch seam on the pants is way too high -- I can barely lift my arms above my shoulders, let alone sit, without feeling like I'm going to be split in half up the middle! It's made of 4 panels and the pants are very loose fitting, but since there's no waist seam I can't add any length back to the bodice to lower the crotch. Do you think that adding a pretty low scoop would be enough to fix this? I'm a very beginner sewer and I really love this jumpsuit so far but I absolutely cannot wear it the way it is right now :(
If you scoop the entire base of the crotch, you will lower it... adding length. You could also cut the jumpsuit where the waistline would be and add a strip of fabric to lengthen the rise. Hope these suggestions help!
Is scooping the back crotch the same as adding more curve to the saddle or adding more curve to the back rise?
That's a great question! I feel like "Scoop" has gotten a bad reputation in pants fitting... some even feel like you should never do it! In this case, scooping refers to lowering the base of crotch curve to pick up excess vertical length that's under crotch level. The curve is essentially the same shape it's just lowered down a little bit. You may also need to add to the curve by extending crotch curves or scooping out the back of the back crotch curve to make more sitting room (if your muslin slides down when you sit). Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I’ve watched this a couple times, because I have a problem with my pants being too tight between the middle of the high hip and the low hip. I guess around the top of the crack line…lol. I like snug pants. The model with muslin, see those pants just look way too big, for my taste, anyway. I can get the rest pretty much the way I like, except for being too snug across that area. I also have a very short front crotch and a very long back crotch. 10. 5 and 17. Makes getting a good waistline, difficult. Two pairs I’ve made pull down in back. One pair fits well, except that butt area.
You can let the side seams out through your high/low hip to make them a little less snug. To fit the crotch, shorten the front rise at the base of the zipper seam allowance. Here's a tutorial showing two ways to do that: ua-cam.com/video/vinYE0OwTwc/v-deo.html Then lengthen the back rise to make more sitting room so they don't pull down. You can slash the back leg pattern just above the back crotch curve and spread the CB seam to add length. You can also extend the back crotch point to lengthen the back rise (If you need more room along your upper thigh) Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
I bought some cheap scrubs and they are basically box cut (I'm not a sewist, the scrubs just look square) do you have a video on how I could make them fit better so I don't look like the Michelin Man in them?
:) If you're talking about the scrub top.. you can take the side seams in at the waistline to create some shape there... If the sleeve is hanging off your shoulder, you can use a seam ripper to take out the top of the sleeve cap about 6" down from the shoulder seam front and back and shorten the shoulder seam a little bit to bring the sleeve onto your shoulder.. Here's a tutorial for that. ua-cam.com/video/OF1FFZvPgVk/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns thank you for taking time to reply! I was talking about the scrub pants they're just basically a rectangle with drawstrings! 😂
So I have made workout leggings that are too short in the back. Don’t know if I just need to extend the length by adding to the top of the back crotch seam or should I scoop. Should I try one before the other? Thanks.
It depends on where they are too short... If they slide down when you sit, you need a deeper hole to sit in (try scooping). If they do not slide, but you're not comfortable where the back waistband sits, you need to add to the top of the back leg at CB to make it higher. Hope that helps!
@@JSternDesigns yes it does! I don’t like where it sits and my gut feeling was to add to the top. I must be learning something from you! 😆
Don't have Facebook or Instagram how can I sign up for free sewing machine
If you comment under the video where I announced the grand prize, we will count those entries too! Good Luck
When I add a bit more to the crotch shelf, then my thigh fabric is too wide.
If you already have enough ease along the upper thigh... you can either scoop the back of the back of the back crotch curve to widen the crotch shelf... You can also slash the leg right above the crotch curve and spread the CB seam edge to add length to the back rise. Hope this helps!
@@JSternDesigns Makes complete sense, thank you.
I need to fix jeans with bad crotch problem. Smile face front and wrinkles below ass. Is there any simpler way for a person who gets confused by the cutting into patterns and graphs. My intellect is not on par with yours.
I offer private zoom pants fitting :) Here's a link to check out the details jsterndesigns.com/product/custom-pants-fitting/
@@JSternDesigns you want $250.00
Yes, the cost is $250 for unlimited zoom, text and email help to fit your pants. I usually spend several one-on-one hours with each student, working on their pants until they are happy. :)