Life's gonna get a bit busier from now on (actually it already has as you can probably see by my upload schedule) so I thought this would help for those who want a placeholder tune while they wait for their cars to get featured in a guide
@@FlyingPan117 understeer: soften front/stiffen rear. Oversteer: stiffen front/soften rear. Do these adjustments by changing spring stiffness and F/R roll bars. Go into telemetries and look at your tire temps. If your oursides are getting hot during steering, increase negative camber. If insides are getting hot while steering, positive camber. Typically want a few more degrees in front than rear. Changing caster settings can allow you to run less camber in a straight line (better for Accel/braking) and still have good camber through the turns. Mess with brake bias if you find yourself oversteering/understeering on corner ENTRY. Your bias largely depends on weight distribution F/R, but in general, more front bias gives more understeer, and rear bias give oversteer. Some cars AHEM R32 and AWD cars AHEM will inevitably understeer, and some will inevitably oversteer. Some cars can't be corrected too much without being garbage.
i feel that but not just as someone who's intermediate at tuning but also because it's annoying to hear, especially in cars that just. should not sound like V12s.
@@vaulthunterfromterra4053 The main reason I pointed out the Centanario though, is because it is shocking how well it sticks to the road, and the fact it is stock AWD means it never loses traction. I'm just really impressed by it.
I think we need a "testing mode", it just takes to darn long to change some little setting start a race, go trough some menus and loading screens, finish the race get the rewards and then repeat. It would really help if we could set circuits as "testing tracks", no drivatars, once we cross the start/finish the timer would start/end and we could be able to modify the car while in the track.
A short final drive (4.20 for example) will make the car accelerate more, at the cost of top speed. A long final drive (3.00 for example) will give the car a higher top speed, at the cost of acceleration (unless the car has a lot of power then it is better to have longer gears so it accelerates with less wheelspin). Separate gear tuning changes where the car begins to run on a gear. if a gear is too long on something like a honda civic (wich i recommend to test this tuning on), the car may not hit vtec after changing gear. If it is too short, then the car won't have enough time to seize the powerband before it hits redline. Its all about finding the perfect balance between acceleration and top speed according to the environment. A great car to start tuning on is the 1997 honda civic type r, like i said before. The best way to start to experiment with the gears is to use a sport transmission and tune the final drive to your liking. Once you've perfected it and want to go further, get the racing transmission and start tuning it. Hope that helped.
Your car should grip up in first gear. If you can launch in 2nd, you need a longer transmission. Top gear (excluding any like, 8-10 speed monsters) should put your top speed at peak power. Forza is annoying since the Y axis is RPM and not HP, so you just need to know that RPM and have the gear be there. Tune the rest of your gears in between accordingly, whatevers comfortable.
@@inayamei I meant when swapping from factory awd to rwd. Wouldn't make much sense that awd is lighter than rwd since you literally remove a couple of driveshafts and atleast the front diff, which should make the car quite some pounds lighter and also should shift the weightbalance much more towards the rear. Well that was the case in fh3 which is also somewhat realistic, but in fh4 drivetrain swaps barely change the weight or weightbalance at all. Yes awd is overpowered, but definitly not as light or even lighter than 2wd.
That and the majority of cars in FH3 had their pi increased with AWD, but it seems that a lot of the OP cars in FH4 are only OP because of this, especially the Bone Shaker and Track-Tor
well he said about many cars in his guides "this car is no where near the fastest, but its definetly one of the easiest to drive" but he also said the reason he doesnt use forza aero is because it makes your car slower but easier to drive, just admit you think it looks like sht youre not alone
This video was quite helpful. I usually tune as i go and it changes quite often as time goes on. But your methods are much more organized than mine. Ill definately be using some of this to improve my forza experience!
I always look into rear aero as often in lower classes you will actually drop PI if you add it, meaning you can add more power, then just tune it to the lowest downforce you can. I have never had this lower my top speed, and get a little better cornering out of it. Most of the time A class wont drop the PI for adding rear aero, but sometimes it will. Front aero is always an increase to PI.
I have been playing Forza since cruising the world on Nintendo 64 and have been in several top 100 leaderboards,,..1: awd is significant during any race tracks except summer conditions, rain snow you need it a or s but if it’s a normal dry condition yes rwd dominates especially sprints but small circuits like city, awd let’s you take off faster for sure. 2: gears; go into your tuning and should be the last you tune for. You have a power band grid, equally distribute the gears final drive within the spectrum. No short 4:10s or long over graphed 3.70s. Match your band, easy, the gears are already matched for your torque for overall torque power band via game computer. Unless you are on a small circuit and shift for a small second into 4th or 5th then they don’t usually need that must adjusting individually, final makes a huge difference. 3 Aero: racing. Keyword. Consider b class your street class, a class your sport class and a class your racing. Aero is pretty friendly slap it on and go. A class doesn’t need aero unless it’s a very light rwd like the brz or fairlady 94. I have won a ton of online races with a zl1 s class with full around aero awd, so it’s preferable especially to track. Sprints don’t need it usually circuits and curvy tracks do. 4: tires: a class sports class, s 1 racing. For small to mid circuits. Long straight sprints can be a class street and s class sports. Test track. Drive it around and feel it . Have a short track tune and a long sprint tune, best words said. A class - sport class s class race components. Unless it’s sprint straights, a class street and a class sport. Milk that hp. Tuning: normal camber set front -2.5 rear -2, toe/ caster/ camber is game applied and only needs adjusting in order to make your car do something it shouldn’t do. Tire pressures are the amount of launch grip and response it gives your car, is not real pressures, just a number. Mini Cooper stock tires 30psi, semi truck stock psi 30 psi. 30 is basically a good overall race pressure, drop if your dragging and rise up a little for long sprints but 30 is magic to me, same with struts and roll bars and suspension. Game calculates your rates based on cars weight/ balance/ dimensions. Best overall really so doesn’t need touched. Your upgrades are crucial. So what should be actually tuned that affects 90%? Gear final drive, camber standards -2.5/-2, aero. Everything else will throw the car out of its natural balance. Face it a charger will and cannot turn like Ferrari. There’s no tuning to fix that. Just read your telemetry. 1.15g turn vs a 1.5 g turn. Solved. Oh and your dif is pre set as well. Use it as you do your upgrades. If your a class a good sports trans will hold its grip and open up on short slower turn, a race s class won’t lose grip being too open and is made for more curvy longer turns and no short slow turn ins, it helps lock faster so it doesn’t lose grip under throttle and over steer forcibly. I never mess with the percentage, with weight shifting to the rear and I always upgrade full tire width before tire material, the balance Correa lates close to balance rear 65% with g force to the rear during throttle, example 275 up front at 50% and a 75% 345 rear setup, math shows close to that 65% balance naturally. I will put this to the test :). Just trying to help, upgrades are 50% of the tune, tuning is %10 percent unless you “glitch” the tune into what I call a super tune ex: 300 mph a class charger, and the 40% is the driver and their consistency. -Trainwreck/ insolent.forza racing. Good video though good base. Horizon 4 is not comparable to real tuning at all, the application theory is there, but it’s all a matrix burning in passion. Tire pressures aren’t tire pressures. Aero is not aero is speed inhibition/ traction percentage increase to the computer, wheel size is turn response, a 30 series will turn and wander much faster than a 55 series, etc etc etc etc Oh and I never mess with brakes, it’s not a pressure adjustment it just means the front / rear will lock faster than the other, your suspension if left correct will compensate for lost of the weight distribution during braking same with chassis, it only varies a small amount if you are using abs or not and believe it or not I win a lot using tcs and abs always putting people in lobbies to the test 100. Except a class I will vary on those words lol. Not trying to war, just keeping the competition alive! Tired of lobby wreckers that are upset!
What's your thoughts on tuning for feel rather than for straight-up performance i.e. a tune that isn't quite as good on paper as a perfectly optimized one, but feels really good to drive and fits a particular driver's driving style?
what kind of question is that? a bomb tune that sets blistering lap times but one you can barely control isn't worth sh*t. Generally, the longer a race is, the more important consistency becomes. So, drive what fits you best and be done with it.
He already said it in the video regarding the Forza wing. If you put it on just because it's easier it makes you bad at the game. So there's your answer. Easy = bad.
@@harrybuhse8622 How the fuck did you get "easy" out of "a tune that feels good"? You know what, don't answer that. Whatever insane troll logic you'll probably throw at me would probably drive me bonkers. But for the record, I meant nothing of the sort. I used to race RC cars - not some stupid toys either, I'm talking about the big 1/8th scale buggies. I used to drive an 8ight 2.0, which was well known for being incredibly fast in the right hands but somewhat unforgiving. When the 8ight 3.0 came out, it was made to correct that unforgiving nature at the expense of its shear agility, allowing it to be driven harder but making it less rewarding of proper driving technique. I never bothered to upgrade because my 8ight 2.0 felt better to drive even if it was no longer the best car to have. That's an example of what I'm talking about.
Yes, on my favorite cars that have great swaps i usually have several setup with those engines, like my m1, i have it with lambo v10, bmw m5 v10, amg v8 and m3 v8, why? Because i like them all, even though the lambo is fastest, also i like to have the viper engine setup in american cars, because that aventador engine just doesnt feel right for them, and it sounds better. And that brz i have with porsche engine instead of LS, why? The sound. And anything that can have a rotary that isnt a mazda, must have a rotary setup, i have a rotary limo and a rotary silvia. And i have a porsche engined testarossa, it got more power that way (enzo would call his mafioso friends if he was alive..)
I have to (also love to) use AWD in all of my cars because I play with keyboard (gasp!). So the throttle position in keyboard is either off, or all the way buried to the floor - there’s no in between. Some S1 and S2 cars also handle beautifully without aero upgrades such as Chiron or Aventador SV.
i always check if the diff balance is good in awd cars. a lot of the time they spin the fronts off the launch and just waste power. adjusting the balance more towards the rear can really help with that.
For B-class rally, Are there any other cars than the beetle you would recomend? I feel like every B-class car I tune is just gonna get rekt by all the track-tors
@@freeautoinsurance365 '91 CRX is amazing at it. My tune has rediculous turning ability that lets me go full speed into just about any corner with a less than 90 degree turn
@@richardlont4480 i feel the exact same with my fiesta xr2, but i feel like most fwd will be like that when you upgrade them so lightly like B class and they have less than 200hp.
@@richardlont4480 i have a renault alpine a110, a fiat 131 abarth, a alfa romeo guilia gta, a 93' clio williams, a 81' ford fiesta and a 65' mini cooper, so 3 fwd's and 3 rwd's, i barely ever use the rwd's. i feel like fwd has alot more grip and is extremely fun to drive even with only like 150hp. if anything the low horsepower is what makes it fun, only people who would understand are the ones who drove those type of cars
what annoys me about the forza community is people angrily asking the devs for cars they know the devs arent allowed to add for legal reasons... like get over it already THERE IS NO SUPRA
But there are some cars that people always request but they can be added, like the Huracan Performante, Ferrari 488 Pista, Aventador SVJ, Ferrari FXXK Evo, etc... Playground Games don't add those cars but they say, hmmm, let's add a car which no one will use
@@nicolapalmieri7344 Yeah.... Not sure a different version of a car we have already is important either... cough cough FXX K *Evo* cough cough Huracan *Performante*
@@nicolapalmieri7344 those cars like slightly modded versions of cars we already have, i preffer getting cars like the dodge hellephant, the opel kaddett gte c, plymouth roadrunner gtx, the 4th gen camaro, superlite sl-c, 1972 fiat 124 rally.. instead of just a slightly more powerfull version of a car we already have
Talking of drive train, I found that the Porsche 918 worked better for me as a grip build as rear wheel drive as I found the car to be more agile and way less under steery, although throttle control is needed
I have a question for you, Purpleguy. When you address AWD advantages and disadvantages, are you also referring to cars that have that drive train natively, or ones that have been swapped? I ask, because I have a near-stock Eclipse in my garage which I've tuned to be a companion car to my Miata, aiming to get their performance as close to the same as possible while not altering their drives. The end result has been an Eclipse that corners like hell (in a good way), taking the best aspects of the RWD configuration, but can instantly re-grip the road after traction has been broken. I tend to like racing lower-powered vehicles in Forza because I feel it is more enjoyable to milk every ounce of speed out of slower vehicles.
While I agree with most of this video, I have to disagree with 2. A max front width FWD car will have massive amounts of lift-off oversteer, increasing the rear width (and front width) will lead to a much stabler car. Generally speaking (for all drives) it is: Bigger rears=more stability and understeer, bigger fronts=twitchier and more oversteer.
Especially since wider rear tires actually lower pi in fwd cars. I feel like you should always get max rear tire widht since it only increases pi in rwd cars and those obv need it, in awd and fwd its pretty much free rear grip
i disagree with the useless earo, yes it makes your car slower on the straights, but it very often barely does anything to your pi while it does give it a lot more traction, i'd probably rather have that than race tires and having to spend 20 extra pi while those can be put into power too to make up for a lot of that straight line speed :3 though the earo is definitely ugly XD
Paused before watching: -Engine swapping to the last option (usually the i4 Turbo rally) -Making the car RWD (if its ALW already) -Changing to the last tire compound. (either vintage or drags) Recently my friend did this: -Put on drift suspenssion and then cried about the game being trash.
For some god awful reason Turn 10 decided to make the brake tuning backwards. putting a bias towards what they have labeled as the front just locks your rear brakes and setting it towards the "rear" locks the front brakes. I find %30-%35 towards the "rear" works best. %30 for fwd and rwd, %35 for awd/mid engines.
I rarely upgrade my front wheels on AWD cars. It costs too many PI points to be worth such a marginal increase in handling. Rear Wheels on the other hand I upgrade almost always, there are fewer cars than one might think where they actually cost more than 1-2 PI.
One more thing: not adjusting suspension strenght A bit harder suspension gave my S2 AWD Supras (I have 2 of them) nearly 15% better drivability (using keyboard).
The only part I'd disagree with to an extent is the forza aero part in regards to the wing. If the wing is going to increase your pi then I definitely agree with you. But if it reduces your pi while also increasing grip, then I'm almost always going to pick it up. Unless the cars main advantage in the class is top speed, I'll happily shave off top speed for increased grip and extra PI to spend elsewhere. And as you pointed out in this video, top speed rarely matters. So if im trying to get the most out of my car, I'm always going to pick up pi reduction that comes with a benefit.
The thing with AWD is... unless you have perfect memory of which car is which, the moment there's any dirt or gravel or rain... the car becomes disadvantaged. AWD negates all that. So unless you're just doing summer road racing where it's 100% asphalt then having AWD is a good insurance policy.
5:20 sorry but your wrong equally balanced width is more important especially when you can tune your springs,rebound,bump stiffness and anti roll bars,if you turn your 1st gear to get the perfect launch you can literally tune a car to get more grip when your on the gas instead of slipping out.
I'd say that sometimes in awd not bothering with front tire width dur to pi actually yields better overall opportunity for dumping it into power(A class R33 build for Example). Even foregoing the race transmission for a sport one may be worth it, sometimes.
That depends on the stock transmissions gearing length and number of gears. For a car where the gears are mostly in line sure, for something that comes stock with 2 regular gears and a super tall 3rd gear, not so much *ahem* gremlin* cough*
Forget everything Purple said... Just slap some stickers (they're each worth 5hp), 20" wheels and a ridiculously ginormous rear wing on the Honda Civic of your choice and you're guaranteed to blow anything off the road. The only real rule is that the stickers must represent parts from manufacturers that aren't actually installed on the car.
5: To be honest, RWD is technically my favourite drive 4: By making this mistake, I wouldn't be able to make a 4-speed car out of 6-speed. 3: That be tough for me if I tune a car for speeds without ignoring the handling, even though on S-classes and X is crucial. 2: I do not really need thickening tires if I don't plan a dragster or a race car 1: This can be tough for me to make my own test track.
1:20 lol this PI system is the reason why people only use AWD, AWD is OP and full of tricks rally/drag tires, spoiler lower PI, wider tires lower PI, you get a lot more grip for a little more or even less PI Zonda C is S2 RWD but AWD swap it go to S1, front engine cars can make a little more HP/weight than AWD swap but the car don't send the power to the ground my 848HP RWD Daytona is a example the car is overall good but straight line is very similar to 600HP AWDs and the difference on start of race is too big that even making faster lap i lost or only get first place in the end of last lap
Another mistake I see a lot is tuning the suspension wrong specifically in drift cars, they’ll have not enough body roll and way to much front stiffness or just all around too stiff
The ohne with the tire with is only sort of true because the Standard Tuning Settings for the race Suspension has wayyyy to much camber so increasing the Front tire with wont do eanything because the majority of the tire wont even tuch the ground even on stock tire with. But you can just adjust the camber with the help of the telemetry and this is Not only going to increase handling performance but also makes incrasing the tire with so much more efficient. It goes so far that it can increase jour grip in the Front by 40% with right adjustment and max tire with. That crazy
One common mistake in FH4 is to use sports or racing tyres in winter, and complain about the car sliding all over the place, snow tyres is the way to go in winter 😀
Forza seems to think awd= best wheel drive and its not like that at all awd is heavier and makes cars less nimble and ruins the turning radius of a car so on twisty corners and drag racing rwd and fwd should definitely hold an advantage
For most cars, i think i simply overpower them, like fit everything to racing spec (or rally specs if available) and one thing i have done (but not any more because the engines sound identical so I'm not doing it anymore) is fit a rally engine to any car that is, well, according to real life, sort of, so Evos, Escorts, Imprezas and so on, but I'm stopping that as they all sound identical and also, I'm trying not to overshoot performance stuff on them
i have a fiat 131 in a rally asset for S1 with a top speed of 300 km/h, i always get surpassed on straight lines, but on dirty ground, noone can catch me. yes i could accellerate the car up to 360 km/h, but it isn't worth it
About tires wide and aero in FWD: For FWD cars give thim a little or max wide rear tires give them really needed stability in corners for example : acura integra or civic vi gen. Also about aero - for FWD when car is sometimes totaly unpredictable the only way you should take is rear wing, i love driving fwd hondas in lower classes but with soo much overstear they can be crap if you took only one corner badly. Sometimes lower top speed and better stability can win the race. Sorry for my english, if i write something wrong please correct me.
For fwd allways widen the rear tires all the way helps keep the rear end from sliding out when u let off and lowers the PI and allways use front/rear aero
Being a GT Sport player,(but I still do love Forza the same way) we don't get customization like this, just tuning and power and weight upgrades, so I'll prob be those people to forget to change drivetrain and aero upgrades lol
@2:30 AWD is only the best drivetrain under certain circumstances - needs a high power output to have an edge - and in this game obviously OP. Race cars are usually cars with high power outputs, hence it gives you a huge advantage in acceleration and only a minor penalty in terms of weight. The biggest disadvantages are weight in kinks and sharp corners and limited top speed. @5:13 Off course not, excess grip "destroys" the ballance of the car.
Most (60%?) players I run into online have no concept of balanced upgrades. They max out their cars with the most power and drag race from corner to corner. I don’t consider myself a great player by any stretch of the imagination, but I’d like to think I’m average or slightly above average when racing. I usually get tire/driveline/chassis upgrades first, then power last. As long as I’m not getting blasted by someone who doesn’t know what brakes are, I usually end up in the top 5 somewhere. Of course sometimes you just outright lose to drag racers, but it feels good to pass idiots in your underpowered car and get a podium.
For those who still don't understand how to tune the transmission, I hope this explanation is clearer: Are you bouncing off aggressively at the rev limit on top gear? Increase top speed. Are you driving flat out but not hitting the rev limit on top gear? Lower top speed.
I used to think tuning was way out of my league until i tried to tune an old alfa romeo giulia sprint, it ended up beating the hoonigan rs200 in most things
Ignoring Gears I often do the opposite and have my vehicles (in any racing game that has tuning) tuned to have as much acceleration as possible without hitting the top gear rev' limit on the fastest part of the track.
Ill suggest you one thing, we need moar content,ive already rewarched all your guides for second time,they are fucking amazing, also have you considered to play other games something like assetto corsa n stuff?
Gearing is quite easy to understand, the smaller they are the shorter it is (more acceleration) Tuning it is entirely up to your playstyle, whether you prefer more acceleration or top speed while racing
Dr Foxxy - the racing gearbox isn‘t necessary. After switching to AWD you already have an adjustable final drive. For cars with native AWD it is recommended to adjust the final drive by upgrading to the correct camshaft.
@@Deutschmaschine0 I just posted a really stupid comment cause I read one thing and thought something else, camshaft upgrades don't always bump your final drive up to what you want though, and not all awd swaps let you adjust the final drive
Dr Foxxy - of course camshaft upgrades are not available in all cars and sometimes they do not raise the rpm limiter a lot. But it is a good thing to play with at first before you lose 10 points or more for a street gearbox. But I have to disagree - (nearly) all AWD swaps come with the same adjustable gearbox with only the racing gearbox as additional upgrade with adjustable gears is available. This is because the programmers use the same gearbox for all AWD swaps. This is not only theoretical but also an experience I made with several hundreds of cars swapped to AWD by myself.
Top speed can vary on the car and gearbox you have in it. Plus that the max speed you will ever hit in rally is probably around 160 if you ate lucky. You can have a ton of power but only have a top speed of 140 or 130 even. That top speed will not be a matter of factor in rally since acceleration and the ability to slide and turn are the important factors. So the speed graph is basicly useless and I do not think thay a A class race car will hit 175mph in a straight line due to that you will focus on downforce and acceleration mpre than straight line speed in a low class race car
I love when people bring awd v12s to the drag strip that they probably downloaded the tune too. Recently with the supra, my friend downloaded a awd 2j tune and it got smoked by my rwd one.
@@Nopenotatall i agree with you that its better to learn how to tune a car yourself but if you know where to look there are some amazing tunes by a small group of people (gtz marple, no3ingame and ryu makkuro just to name a few)
You still need front aero on some fwd A class cars though. I tried with it and without it, doesn't really slow the car down, car wasn't really that fast in the first place , I win with the corners, especially now with the high speed collision thing. I just phase through everyone in corners.
You said you've played Forza alot. Do you have any tips on which one to buy? (For PC playing) The last one i played, and totally loved, is Forza Motorsport 3 on X Box 360? And that was ages ago. Only similar game i play now is The Crew 2. (PS I prefer open world and i believe its Horizon then?) PS. PI = Performance Index. EVERY race game out there has a PI, might be a different name on the PI system in different games but basically its the same exact thing.
“Aero on A class or lower is useless” Okay, explain RWD power cars: B class Plymouth Cuda 1,515 hp, A class Buick GSX 1,357 hp, D class 1940 Mercury Deluxe Coupe, 1,515 hp, C class same as D class, but with more handling.
Awd swapped cars yes because the fully adjustable race transmission cost allmost no PI where as MOST but not all other cars your better off with stock street or sport transmission(sport usually lowers the PI and you can adjust the final drive ratio) giving you alot more PI to play with which usually out weighs the high PI precision custom gearing 👍 dont worry about the shitty acceleration stat change most fully adjustable race transmissions give because it lengthens the gearing
Life's gonna get a bit busier from now on (actually it already has as you can probably see by my upload schedule) so I thought this would help for those who want a placeholder tune while they wait for their cars to get featured in a guide
U forgot useless engine swap
@ThePurpleguy123 oh and btw i put widebodys on my cars :3
pGuy ily
Make a video I on how to deal with understeer/Oversteer. In this case how to tune to give the car either more grip or less
@@FlyingPan117 understeer: soften front/stiffen rear.
Oversteer: stiffen front/soften rear.
Do these adjustments by changing spring stiffness and F/R roll bars. Go into telemetries and look at your tire temps. If your oursides are getting hot during steering, increase negative camber. If insides are getting hot while steering, positive camber. Typically want a few more degrees in front than rear. Changing caster settings can allow you to run less camber in a straight line (better for Accel/braking) and still have good camber through the turns. Mess with brake bias if you find yourself oversteering/understeering on corner ENTRY. Your bias largely depends on weight distribution F/R, but in general, more front bias gives more understeer, and rear bias give oversteer.
Some cars AHEM R32 and AWD cars AHEM will inevitably understeer, and some will inevitably oversteer. Some cars can't be corrected too much without being garbage.
Another mistake people make is v12 swapping everything
i feel that but not just as someone who's intermediate at tuning but also because it's annoying to hear, especially in cars that just. should not sound like V12s.
@@ujellybroski Supras... koenigseggs... etc.
@@ujellybroski an the V12 racing just sounds like shit, i just used it once swaped in the Mosler MT900S
Nothing like a classic muscle car with a v12 😬
"V12 swap the Supra, that sounds like a good idea. I mean, we all know that V12 > I6, right?"
Now for 5 Common Racing Mistakes:
One would be throttle control.
2nd in my oppinion would be using proper racing lines. Or atleast good racing lines.
Wait.. Are you saying there's more than two positions with the throttle?!
@@pyro1324 Yes, unless you use M&K in that case, just tap gradually to a hold.
@@Blurgamer17 sarcasm mate
@@pyro1324 Oh like I just missed the entire joke?
“Now, you’re a forza player so I don’t have to explain PI”
Me, not a Forza Player: Oh, alright then guess I’ll GO BACK TO GT SPORT THEN
It’s useless info just pick a tune that ends in 2 zeros in the class you want
@@mrcoolman2 do you also ram people who drive around you in a non OP car as most who use other peoples tunes do as well?
Anthony Jones you sound salty I think you belong betting in the sea as you probably look like a fish
@@mrcoolman2 so yes, you do ram better drivers. Thanks.
Anthony Jones mate I don’t even play online
"....Your car will fly off the road, if you aren't using aero in S2...."
The Centenario would like to have a word with you about that.....
And 918, and LaFerrari, and F1GT, and MC12FE.......
*TVR CERBERA SPEED 12 LEFT THE ROOM*
Usually, high end cars like that have natural aero...because they’re super/hyper/racing cars
@@vaulthunterfromterra4053 The main reason I pointed out the Centanario though, is because it is shocking how well it sticks to the road, and the fact it is stock AWD means it never loses traction. I'm just really impressed by it.
But those cars already come with aero. You don’t need to have forza aero
I think we need a "testing mode", it just takes to darn long to change some little setting start a race, go trough some menus and loading screens, finish the race get the rewards and then repeat. It would really help if we could set circuits as "testing tracks", no drivatars, once we cross the start/finish the timer would start/end and we could be able to modify the car while in the track.
The only thing today that I have to *jeopardize* is that damn pace car in the thumbnail
*IA-15 memories..*
I thought he was going to do some gran turismo shitpost like BK4 😂
That would be great though
Oh Yeah 🎵
CONNIPTIONS
OOOOOOH YEEEEEEAH
Been playing since the first Forza, and still don't know how to tune gears.
A short final drive (4.20 for example) will make the car accelerate more, at the cost of top speed.
A long final drive (3.00 for example) will give the car a higher top speed, at the cost of acceleration (unless the car has a lot of power then it is better to have longer gears so it accelerates with less wheelspin).
Separate gear tuning changes where the car begins to run on a gear.
if a gear is too long on something like a honda civic (wich i recommend to test this tuning on), the car may not hit vtec after changing gear. If it is too short, then the car won't have enough time to seize the powerband before it hits redline.
Its all about finding the perfect balance between acceleration and top speed according to the environment.
A great car to start tuning on is the 1997 honda civic type r, like i said before.
The best way to start to experiment with the gears is to use a sport transmission and tune the final drive to your liking. Once you've perfected it and want to go further, get the racing transmission and start tuning it.
Hope that helped.
LoL
Your car should grip up in first gear. If you can launch in 2nd, you need a longer transmission.
Top gear (excluding any like, 8-10 speed monsters) should put your top speed at peak power. Forza is annoying since the Y axis is RPM and not HP, so you just need to know that RPM and have the gear be there. Tune the rest of your gears in between accordingly, whatevers comfortable.
@@someweeb3650 we meet again
@@someweeb3650 explain the longer *transmission*
Horizon 4 needs the weight difference from horizon 3 when swapping drivetrains. I'm still confused how some cars are heavier with rwd than with awd...
@@inayamei I meant when swapping from factory awd to rwd. Wouldn't make much sense that awd is lighter than rwd since you literally remove a couple of driveshafts and atleast the front diff, which should make the car quite some pounds lighter and also should shift the weightbalance much more towards the rear.
Well that was the case in fh3 which is also somewhat realistic, but in fh4 drivetrain swaps barely change the weight or weightbalance at all. Yes awd is overpowered, but definitly not as light or even lighter than 2wd.
That and the majority of cars in FH3 had their pi increased with AWD, but it seems that a lot of the OP cars in FH4 are only OP because of this, especially the Bone Shaker and Track-Tor
What I mean is, in FH4 the pi goes down for some stupid reason
@@vaulthunterfromterra4053
Adding AWD, adds weight. Which then lowers PI
Josh Parrish because AWD can make cars worse
"If you're a Forza player then im sure you know PI"
Me, a Beginner, that genuinely thought that i could get a concrete short guide: _guess i'll die_
I just slap on every part, and tune it after..
I'm still having issues with tuning
i mean he did give a short guide
About the aero thing, in A class. Literally the 5 fastest cars use aero. Pretty much the same story for S1.
well he said about many cars in his guides "this car is no where near the fastest, but its definetly one of the easiest to drive" but he also said the reason he doesnt use forza aero is because it makes your car slower but easier to drive, just admit you think it looks like sht youre not alone
This video was quite helpful. I usually tune as i go and it changes quite often as time goes on. But your methods are much more organized than mine. Ill definately be using some of this to improve my forza experience!
The thumbnail gave me PTSD about the nurburgring
@Kvf 29 hi
@Kvf 29 uwu kvf-kun
*O H Y E A H*
@Kvf 29 oh hi
Who didn't
So lemme get this straight,
Deoxide: *weeb with forza*
Pguy123: *actually is good at game ( not saying deoxide is bad) but memes*
apenas um nome de canal umm what
He deleted his comment
xx executr xx he’s decent and knows how to tune
Dániel Vérten oh ok then
Every other UA-camr:
NeW FaStEsT CaR!1!
AwD V12 sWaP!
I always look into rear aero as often in lower classes you will actually drop PI if you add it, meaning you can add more power, then just tune it to the lowest downforce you can. I have never had this lower my top speed, and get a little better cornering out of it. Most of the time A class wont drop the PI for adding rear aero, but sometimes it will. Front aero is always an increase to PI.
I think Fangio once said something like "Top speed is meaningless if you don't have acceleration for exiting the curves", so this dude's right.
-rep for using full suggested line though
Started playing horizon 4 recently, and I was a noob, engine swapping, AWD, etc. This helped me get the hang of some stuff and thanks.
You forgot to mention to never forget the ricer wheels, that's the most important part.
Some wheels are damn heavy, but there are some wheels that actualy help with wheight and they dont have a "riced" look, like racing wheels
@@rigel8755 halibrand works best for old muscles and lexani works best for luxury cars
I actually didn’t know that test tracks are even a thing for tunes, thanks for this video!
I have been playing Forza since cruising the world on Nintendo 64 and have been in several top 100 leaderboards,,..1: awd is significant during any race tracks except summer conditions, rain snow you need it a or s but if it’s a normal dry condition yes rwd dominates especially sprints but small circuits like city, awd let’s you take off faster for sure.
2: gears; go into your tuning and should be the last you tune for. You have a power band grid, equally distribute the gears final drive within the spectrum. No short 4:10s or long over graphed 3.70s. Match your band, easy, the gears are already matched for your torque for overall torque power band via game computer. Unless you are on a small circuit and shift for a small second into 4th or 5th then they don’t usually need that must adjusting individually, final makes a huge difference.
3 Aero: racing. Keyword. Consider b class your street class, a class your sport class and a class your racing. Aero is pretty friendly slap it on and go. A class doesn’t need aero unless it’s a very light rwd like the brz or fairlady 94. I have won a ton of online races with a zl1 s class with full around aero awd, so it’s preferable especially to track. Sprints don’t need it usually circuits and curvy tracks do.
4: tires: a class sports class, s 1 racing. For small to mid circuits. Long straight sprints can be a class street and s class sports.
Test track. Drive it around and feel it . Have a short track tune and a long sprint tune, best words said. A class - sport class s class race components. Unless it’s sprint straights, a class street and a class sport. Milk that hp.
Tuning: normal camber set front -2.5 rear -2, toe/ caster/ camber is game applied and only needs adjusting in order to make your car do something it shouldn’t do. Tire pressures are the amount of launch grip and response it gives your car, is not real pressures, just a number. Mini Cooper stock tires 30psi, semi truck stock psi 30 psi. 30 is basically a good overall race pressure, drop if your dragging and rise up a little for long sprints but 30 is magic to me, same with struts and roll bars and suspension. Game calculates your rates based on cars weight/ balance/ dimensions. Best overall really so doesn’t need touched. Your upgrades are crucial. So what should be actually tuned that affects 90%? Gear final drive, camber standards -2.5/-2, aero. Everything else will throw the car out of its natural balance. Face it a charger will and cannot turn like Ferrari. There’s no tuning to fix that. Just read your telemetry. 1.15g turn vs a 1.5 g turn. Solved. Oh and your dif is pre set as well. Use it as you do your upgrades. If your a class a good sports trans will hold its grip and open up on short slower turn, a race s class won’t lose grip being too open and is made for more curvy longer turns and no short slow turn ins, it helps lock faster so it doesn’t lose grip under throttle and over steer forcibly. I never mess with the percentage, with weight shifting to the rear and I always upgrade full tire width before tire material, the balance Correa lates close to balance rear 65% with g force to the rear during throttle, example 275 up front at 50% and a 75% 345 rear setup, math shows close to that 65% balance naturally.
I will put this to the test :). Just trying to help, upgrades are 50% of the tune, tuning is %10 percent unless you “glitch” the tune into what I call a super tune ex: 300 mph a class charger, and the 40% is the driver and their consistency.
-Trainwreck/ insolent.forza racing.
Good video though good base.
Horizon 4 is not comparable to real tuning at all, the application theory is there, but it’s all a matrix burning in passion. Tire pressures aren’t tire pressures. Aero is not aero is speed inhibition/ traction percentage increase to the computer, wheel size is turn response, a 30 series will turn and wander much faster than a 55 series, etc etc etc etc
Oh and I never mess with brakes, it’s not a pressure adjustment it just means the front / rear will lock faster than the other, your suspension if left correct will compensate for lost of the weight distribution during braking same with chassis, it only varies a small amount if you are using abs or not and believe it or not I win a lot using tcs and abs always putting people in lobbies to the test 100. Except a class I will vary on those words lol.
Not trying to war, just keeping the competition alive! Tired of lobby wreckers that are upset!
What's your thoughts on tuning for feel rather than for straight-up performance i.e. a tune that isn't quite as good on paper as a perfectly optimized one, but feels really good to drive and fits a particular driver's driving style?
what kind of question is that? a bomb tune that sets blistering lap times but one you can barely control isn't worth sh*t. Generally, the longer a race is, the more important consistency becomes. So, drive what fits you best and be done with it.
@@MrWaffel
That's my thoughts on it, but I kinda want to hear what Purple has to say about it.
He already said it in the video regarding the Forza wing. If you put it on just because it's easier it makes you bad at the game. So there's your answer. Easy = bad.
@@harrybuhse8622
How the fuck did you get "easy" out of "a tune that feels good"?
You know what, don't answer that. Whatever insane troll logic you'll probably throw at me would probably drive me bonkers.
But for the record, I meant nothing of the sort. I used to race RC cars - not some stupid toys either, I'm talking about the big 1/8th scale buggies. I used to drive an 8ight 2.0, which was well known for being incredibly fast in the right hands but somewhat unforgiving. When the 8ight 3.0 came out, it was made to correct that unforgiving nature at the expense of its shear agility, allowing it to be driven harder but making it less rewarding of proper driving technique. I never bothered to upgrade because my 8ight 2.0 felt better to drive even if it was no longer the best car to have. That's an example of what I'm talking about.
Yes, on my favorite cars that have great swaps i usually have several setup with those engines, like my m1, i have it with lambo v10, bmw m5 v10, amg v8 and m3 v8, why? Because i like them all, even though the lambo is fastest, also i like to have the viper engine setup in american cars, because that aventador engine just doesnt feel right for them, and it sounds better. And that brz i have with porsche engine instead of LS, why? The sound. And anything that can have a rotary that isnt a mazda, must have a rotary setup, i have a rotary limo and a rotary silvia. And i have a porsche engined testarossa, it got more power that way (enzo would call his mafioso friends if he was alive..)
I have to (also love to) use AWD in all of my cars because I play with keyboard (gasp!). So the throttle position in keyboard is either off, or all the way buried to the floor - there’s no in between. Some S1 and S2 cars also handle beautifully without aero upgrades such as Chiron or Aventador SV.
i always check if the diff balance is good in awd cars. a lot of the time they spin the fronts off the launch and just waste power. adjusting the balance more towards the rear can really help with that.
gameboy3800 yep I have a awd car that spins all tires of launch but I don’t car bc I do t use it☺️
For B-class rally, Are there any other cars than the beetle you would recomend? I feel like every B-class car I tune is just gonna get rekt by all the track-tors
try fwd cars like the clio williams and/or fiesta xr2, they could get really fun
@@freeautoinsurance365 '91 CRX is amazing at it. My tune has rediculous turning ability that lets me go full speed into just about any corner with a less than 90 degree turn
@@richardlont4480 i feel the exact same with my fiesta xr2, but i feel like most fwd will be like that when you upgrade them so lightly like B class and they have less than 200hp.
@@richardlont4480 i have a renault alpine a110, a fiat 131 abarth, a alfa romeo guilia gta, a 93' clio williams, a 81' ford fiesta and a 65' mini cooper, so 3 fwd's and 3 rwd's, i barely ever use the rwd's. i feel like fwd has alot more grip and is extremely fun to drive even with only like 150hp. if anything the low horsepower is what makes it fun, only people who would understand are the ones who drove those type of cars
@@freeautoinsurance365 Low horsepower is the way to go. My S1 racer has half the hp of every other S1 in the game.
what annoys me about the forza community is people angrily asking the devs for cars they know the devs arent allowed to add for legal reasons... like get over it already THERE IS NO SUPRA
But there are some cars that people always request but they can be added, like the Huracan Performante, Ferrari 488 Pista, Aventador SVJ, Ferrari FXXK Evo, etc... Playground Games don't add those cars but they say, hmmm, let's add a car which no one will use
@@nicolapalmieri7344 Yeah.... Not sure a different version of a car we have already is important either... cough cough FXX K *Evo* cough cough Huracan *Performante*
@@mickaelblake7088 people want them tho, I love the little wing on the Huracan Performante, and the Italian flag graphics, fly as hell
@@nicolapalmieri7344 those cars like slightly modded versions of cars we already have, i preffer getting cars like the dodge hellephant, the opel kaddett gte c, plymouth roadrunner gtx, the 4th gen camaro, superlite sl-c, 1972 fiat 124 rally.. instead of just a slightly more powerfull version of a car we already have
@@nicolapalmieri7344 also if i could have just one toyota in the game it wouldnt be an ae86 or a supra, itd be a celica gt-four
When it comes to Drifting I'm constantly adjusting gearing and suspension
Talking of drive train, I found that the Porsche 918 worked better for me as a grip build as rear wheel drive as I found the car to be more agile and way less under steery, although throttle control is needed
Great video taught me plenty I've referred to it several times thanks I like tuning myself f I can correctly it's gratifying.
thanks for making this. cant wait to dive into your channel. subbed
I have a question for you, Purpleguy. When you address AWD advantages and disadvantages, are you also referring to cars that have that drive train natively, or ones that have been swapped? I ask, because I have a near-stock Eclipse in my garage which I've tuned to be a companion car to my Miata, aiming to get their performance as close to the same as possible while not altering their drives. The end result has been an Eclipse that corners like hell (in a good way), taking the best aspects of the RWD configuration, but can instantly re-grip the road after traction has been broken.
I tend to like racing lower-powered vehicles in Forza because I feel it is more enjoyable to milk every ounce of speed out of slower vehicles.
While I agree with most of this video, I have to disagree with 2. A max front width FWD car will have massive amounts of lift-off oversteer, increasing the rear width (and front width) will lead to a much stabler car. Generally speaking (for all drives) it is: Bigger rears=more stability and understeer, bigger fronts=twitchier and more oversteer.
Especially since wider rear tires actually lower pi in fwd cars. I feel like you should always get max rear tire widht since it only increases pi in rwd cars and those obv need it, in awd and fwd its pretty much free rear grip
Noah FWD is the glorious when you know how to drive it
@@thealmightytwingo yes it is
I just want to say you rallying that Civic in the end was so satisfying
You don't need upgraded tires. Just correct more out of corners. All you need is a V8 muscle car with all the power and stock tires.
i disagree with the useless earo, yes it makes your car slower on the straights, but it very often barely does anything to your pi while it does give it a lot more traction, i'd probably rather have that than race tires and having to spend 20 extra pi while those can be put into power too to make up for a lot of that straight line speed :3
though the earo is definitely ugly XD
Paused before watching:
-Engine swapping to the last option (usually the i4 Turbo rally)
-Making the car RWD (if its ALW already)
-Changing to the last tire compound. (either vintage or drags)
Recently my friend did this:
-Put on drift suspenssion and then cried about the game being trash.
about the drivetrain part, the fastest land speed record car ever is technically non wheel drive because its jet powered
Dude when I watch your old videos or any other initiald videos I feel like I want to cry.
finally
some good fucking person who knows how to stop horrendous cars being more horrendous
For some god awful reason Turn 10 decided to make the brake tuning backwards. putting a bias towards what they have labeled as the front just locks your rear brakes and setting it towards the "rear" locks the front brakes. I find %30-%35 towards the "rear" works best. %30 for fwd and rwd, %35 for awd/mid engines.
I rarely upgrade my front wheels on AWD cars. It costs too many PI points to be worth such a marginal increase in handling. Rear Wheels on the other hand I upgrade almost always, there are fewer cars than one might think where they actually cost more than 1-2 PI.
One more thing: not adjusting suspension strenght
A bit harder suspension gave my S2 AWD Supras (I have 2 of them) nearly 15% better drivability (using keyboard).
Your voice is strangely calming. Thanks for the tips.
The only part I'd disagree with to an extent is the forza aero part in regards to the wing. If the wing is going to increase your pi then I definitely agree with you. But if it reduces your pi while also increasing grip, then I'm almost always going to pick it up. Unless the cars main advantage in the class is top speed, I'll happily shave off top speed for increased grip and extra PI to spend elsewhere. And as you pointed out in this video, top speed rarely matters. So if im trying to get the most out of my car, I'm always going to pick up pi reduction that comes with a benefit.
That pace car... it gives me CONNIPTIONS.
My A-Class 1965 Mini Cooper S needs the rear Forza Aero bc it would spin out otherwise.
(It's RWD, works surprisingly well lol)
The thing with AWD is... unless you have perfect memory of which car is which, the moment there's any dirt or gravel or rain... the car becomes disadvantaged. AWD negates all that. So unless you're just doing summer road racing where it's 100% asphalt then having AWD is a good insurance policy.
5:20 sorry but your wrong equally balanced width is more important especially when you can tune your springs,rebound,bump stiffness and anti roll bars,if you turn your 1st gear to get the perfect launch you can literally tune a car to get more grip when your on the gas instead of slipping out.
I'd say that sometimes in awd not bothering with front tire width dur to pi actually yields better overall opportunity for dumping it into power(A class R33 build for Example). Even foregoing the race transmission for a sport one may be worth it, sometimes.
That depends on the stock transmissions gearing length and number of gears. For a car where the gears are mostly in line sure, for something that comes stock with 2 regular gears and a super tall 3rd gear, not so much *ahem* gremlin* cough*
Forget everything Purple said... Just slap some stickers (they're each worth 5hp), 20" wheels and a ridiculously ginormous rear wing on the Honda Civic of your choice and you're guaranteed to blow anything off the road. The only real rule is that the stickers must represent parts from manufacturers that aren't actually installed on the car.
5: To be honest, RWD is technically my favourite drive
4: By making this mistake, I wouldn't be able to make a 4-speed car out of 6-speed.
3: That be tough for me if I tune a car for speeds without ignoring the handling, even though on S-classes and X is crucial.
2: I do not really need thickening tires if I don't plan a dragster or a race car
1: This can be tough for me to make my own test track.
1:20 lol this PI system is the reason why people only use AWD, AWD is OP and full of tricks rally/drag tires, spoiler lower PI, wider tires lower PI, you get a lot more grip for a little more or even less PI Zonda C is S2 RWD but AWD swap it go to S1, front engine cars can make a little more HP/weight than AWD swap but the car don't send the power to the ground my 848HP RWD Daytona is a example the car is overall good but straight line is very similar to 600HP AWDs and the difference on start of race is too big that even making faster lap i lost or only get first place in the end of last lap
Another mistake I see a lot is tuning the suspension wrong specifically in drift cars, they’ll have not enough body roll and way to much front stiffness or just all around too stiff
The ohne with the tire with is only sort of true because the Standard Tuning Settings for the race Suspension has wayyyy to much camber so increasing the Front tire with wont do eanything because the majority of the tire wont even tuch the ground even on stock tire with. But you can just adjust the camber with the help of the telemetry and this is Not only going to increase handling performance but also makes incrasing the tire with so much more efficient. It goes so far that it can increase jour grip in the Front by 40% with right adjustment and max tire with. That crazy
Its pretty easy to tune if you understand atleast the basics of vehicle dynamics and how weight transfer/distribution affects each car
I put aeros on to counteract the understeer from awd swapping every car 😭
Thanks for making this, it helped clear up why you do certain things in your guides that confused me.
So uh, Boneshaker Horizon Guide when?
One common mistake in FH4 is to use sports or racing tyres in winter, and complain about the car sliding all over the place, snow tyres is the way to go in winter 😀
Forza seems to think awd= best wheel drive and its not like that at all awd is heavier and makes cars less nimble and ruins the turning radius of a car so on twisty corners and drag racing rwd and fwd should definitely hold an advantage
For most cars, i think i simply overpower them, like fit everything to racing spec (or rally specs if available) and one thing i have done (but not any more because the engines sound identical so I'm not doing it anymore) is fit a rally engine to any car that is, well, according to real life, sort of, so Evos, Escorts, Imprezas and so on, but I'm stopping that as they all sound identical and also, I'm trying not to overshoot performance stuff on them
2:29 what car is this?
@@edmund8954 1985 Audi Quattro S1 E2
i have a fiat 131 in a rally asset for S1 with a top speed of 300 km/h, i always get surpassed on straight lines, but on dirty ground, noone can catch me. yes i could accellerate the car up to 360 km/h, but it isn't worth it
small front tires = more understeer and large rear tires = less oversteer
I got a Forza tuning ad after watching this
About tires wide and aero in FWD:
For FWD cars give thim a little or max wide rear tires give them really needed stability in corners for example : acura integra or civic vi gen.
Also about aero - for FWD when car is sometimes totaly unpredictable the only way you should take is rear wing, i love driving fwd hondas in lower classes but with soo much overstear they can be crap if you took only one corner badly. Sometimes lower top speed and better stability can win the race.
Sorry for my english, if i write something wrong please correct me.
Toe the rear wheels out and use thinner rear wheels, experiment, that might help you a bit.
For fwd allways widen the rear tires all the way helps keep the rear end from sliding out when u let off and lowers the PI and allways use front/rear aero
Being a GT Sport player,(but I still do love Forza the same way) we don't get customization like this, just tuning and power and weight upgrades, so I'll prob be those people to forget to change drivetrain and aero upgrades lol
@2:30 AWD is only the best drivetrain under certain circumstances - needs a high power output to have an edge - and in this game obviously OP. Race cars are usually cars with high power outputs, hence it gives you a huge advantage in acceleration and only a minor penalty in terms of weight. The biggest disadvantages are weight in kinks and sharp corners and limited top speed.
@5:13 Off course not, excess grip "destroys" the ballance of the car.
Awd low power grip tunes murder short tracks 👍
can you make a video about Richard Burns Rally my dude?
I actually got my 720 PO in s2 class for online adventure, I don't have any aero parts and it is working perfectly find
That thumbnail hurts me so much on a deeply spiritual level purple.
Why
This realy helped me thx :D
I was horrified of tuning until just like a week ago when I made a killer s1 brz grip tune
Most (60%?) players I run into online have no concept of balanced upgrades. They max out their cars with the most power and drag race from corner to corner.
I don’t consider myself a great player by any stretch of the imagination, but I’d like to think I’m average or slightly above average when racing.
I usually get tire/driveline/chassis upgrades first, then power last. As long as I’m not getting blasted by someone who doesn’t know what brakes are, I usually end up in the top 5 somewhere.
Of course sometimes you just outright lose to drag racers, but it feels good to pass idiots in your underpowered car and get a podium.
I usually leave gears as is, maybe change the differential ratio if anything. Just like what I would do in real life.
For those who still don't understand how to tune the transmission, I hope this explanation is clearer:
Are you bouncing off aggressively at the rev limit on top gear? Increase top speed.
Are you driving flat out but not hitting the rev limit on top gear? Lower top speed.
I used to think tuning was way out of my league until i tried to tune an old alfa romeo giulia sprint, it ended up beating the hoonigan rs200 in most things
The civic rally looked so satisfying
For competitive a class on road, I use fwdcars such as the 2012 mini Cooper jcw gp
we need the horizon guide to the boneshaker
Top 500 on almost every speed zone in Forza and I couldn't tell you the slightest thing about tuning
Ignoring Gears
I often do the opposite and have my vehicles (in any racing game that has tuning) tuned to have as much acceleration as possible without hitting the top gear rev' limit on the fastest part of the track.
Ill suggest you one thing, we need moar content,ive already rewarched all your guides for second time,they are fucking amazing, also have you considered to play other games something like assetto corsa n stuff?
I use AWD all the time but that’s because of the rammers (hey at least I don’t swap all cars, I just pick the AWD ones)
I’m good with springs and camber tuning, I’m bad at gear tuning. It seems confusing
Gearing is quite easy to understand, the smaller they are the shorter it is (more acceleration)
Tuning it is entirely up to your playstyle, whether you prefer more acceleration or top speed while racing
Just get the best transmission and clutch, then just set the final drive so it matches what you need. Don't fidget with the actual gear lengths.
Dr Foxxy - the racing gearbox isn‘t necessary. After switching to AWD you already have an adjustable final drive. For cars with native AWD it is recommended to adjust the final drive by upgrading to the correct camshaft.
@@Deutschmaschine0 I just posted a really stupid comment cause I read one thing and thought something else, camshaft upgrades don't always bump your final drive up to what you want though, and not all awd swaps let you adjust the final drive
Dr Foxxy - of course camshaft upgrades are not available in all cars and sometimes they do not raise the rpm limiter a lot. But it is a good thing to play with at first before you lose 10 points or more for a street gearbox.
But I have to disagree - (nearly) all AWD swaps come with the same adjustable gearbox with only the racing gearbox as additional upgrade with adjustable gears is available. This is because the programmers use the same gearbox for all AWD swaps. This is not only theoretical but also an experience I made with several hundreds of cars swapped to AWD by myself.
Try upgrading everything but the tires on the opel kadett
Top speed can vary on the car and gearbox you have in it. Plus that the max speed you will ever hit in rally is probably around 160 if you ate lucky. You can have a ton of power but only have a top speed of 140 or 130 even. That top speed will not be a matter of factor in rally since acceleration and the ability to slide and turn are the important factors. So the speed graph is basicly useless and I do not think thay a A class race car will hit 175mph in a straight line due to that you will focus on downforce and acceleration mpre than straight line speed in a low class race car
I like how the Thumbnail is the gran turismo pace car
I have an S1 class vauxhall Monaro VXR with sport tires and it’s probably the best S1 car I’ve ever built
Could you please do a video on the ferrari f40 compitizone and how to gear it 👍
I love when people bring awd v12s to the drag strip that they probably downloaded the tune too. Recently with the supra, my friend downloaded a awd 2j tune and it got smoked by my rwd one.
That just makes it sound like all downloaded tunes are bad though
greengamer 007 most are. It’s better to try for yourself and get better. It helps you understand how the cars handle and perform when you tune them
@@Nopenotatall i agree with you that its better to learn how to tune a car yourself but if you know where to look there are some amazing tunes by a small group of people (gtz marple, no3ingame and ryu makkuro just to name a few)
interesting cover picture seeing the that built that paint job on H4 or few who did the pace car
You still need front aero on some fwd A class cars though. I tried with it and without it, doesn't really slow the car down, car wasn't really that fast in the first place , I win with the corners, especially now with the high speed collision thing. I just phase through everyone in corners.
The world would be better if all games were Gran Turismo 4. Just slap a 20k race tire in your car and you can destroy the manufacturer cup.
Lol noob cant tune hahaha
Sometimes I will equip aero for the cosmetics and set the actual down force to the lowest setting.
But the Forza wing sometimes lowers points, slap that puppy on, set the wing to do nothing, and more points for other things
Only peaple who have experienced true pain know what car is in the thumnail
You said you've played Forza alot.
Do you have any tips on which one to buy? (For PC playing)
The last one i played, and totally loved, is Forza Motorsport 3 on X Box 360? And that was ages ago. Only similar game i play now is The Crew 2.
(PS I prefer open world and i believe its Horizon then?)
PS. PI = Performance Index. EVERY race game out there has a PI, might be a different name on the PI system in different games but basically its the same exact thing.
"aero on A class makes you bad"
But it looks so cool. :(
Ricer
Yes, need dem ricer rims as well.
“Aero on A class or lower is useless”
Okay, explain RWD power cars: B class Plymouth Cuda 1,515 hp, A class Buick GSX 1,357 hp, D class 1940 Mercury Deluxe Coupe, 1,515 hp, C class same as D class, but with more handling.
@@vaulthunterfromterra4053
Or Volvo Iron Night.
wait... His voice is not in Text 2 speech.
*WHAT HAVE YOU DONE WITH THE REAL PURPLE GUY 123??*
2:09 Now I know why my car seems impossible to drive
Question!? is it worth tuning individual gears/is that feature useful in any way?
tanks!
Awd swapped cars yes because the fully adjustable race transmission cost allmost no PI where as MOST but not all other cars your better off with stock street or sport transmission(sport usually lowers the PI and you can adjust the final drive ratio) giving you alot more PI to play with which usually out weighs the high PI precision custom gearing 👍 dont worry about the shitty acceleration stat change most fully adjustable race transmissions give because it lengthens the gearing
eVa yes it is different cars with different weight and different upgrade setups need individual gearing to get as much as u can out of the engine
My Trueno has the 4AGE with 200 hp in B Class, because its perfectly realistic and still beats S Class in open world races.