Dang dude that's savage and sad at the same time. I will say though, I've been watching him for a few years and he always claims to not know much. Maybe he doesn't in the grand scheme of repairs, but I've seen him pull off fixes I wouldn't even dream of attempting. His moxy alone makes him a formidable fixer of things...
That is exactly how I have learned to work on boards. Well messed that up oh well learned something new in the process lol cost me a bit if money but so does experience
Thank you, SOO SO much for sharing your workings out. The drawing you shown at 35:40 of the USB-C breakout board and how it should work on a good switch was able to help me identify a short between pin 6 and 7 on the switch I am currently working on. (My diode readings on both were double.)
I'm only half way through, but before I forget I want to commend you Steve, your control with the iron and hot air has come on leaps and bounds. Don't you dare take my customers Mr. Stez 😁
@@StezStixFix you definitely are! I'll leave another comment soon, I'm almost through, but I also want to say you're right on a few things that you concluded on the faults
@@TheCod3rI scrolled through my entire (available) UA-cam history but I couldn't find you, and you're sitting here and chatting with Stez 🙂 Your content is super fun and informative ❤
Just want to say thanks for the shout, and also a few things to point out 😀 M92 can indeed show good but still be bad, and cause charging on one side only The cap shorted on m92 is directly linked to p13usb. If the cap is still short once p13usb is removed the cpu is dead, or the single cap on the bottom of m92 otherwise the cpu is good Chances are the next layer on the port is shorting something out, either that or you have an incorrectly installed p13usb, it's hard to tell on the andonstar with the depth perception it has but that's my best 2 guesses. Great video though, really enjoyed this one
Cheers mate, really appreciate the feedback! Sounds like the CPU might still be OK. I'll have a go at the P13 again. I'll take it off and try again. Maybe it's not seated quite right 👍 I hope it's that and not the layers under the port. The damage was pretty severe, but I couldn't find anything shorting out, but I don't know if it's cut through something or not! 😳 Thanks for all you help, I'll definitely be having another go at this! 👍
I applaud your efforts. This board would be scrapped without inspection at any official repair shops and 99% of aftermarket repairers after looking at that USB-C. Worst is the owner had already meddled with it meaning your already at a HUGE disadvantage.
I call this progress and it is not a fail. I have done the same on switches and I did get failure and success. Even a failure becomes a success on another board as the experience it creates is invaluable. I called this type of failure a learning curve if that makes sense.
Thanks M! Yeah, you're absolutely correct. Even though it's still not working, I learnt so much on this for a first attempt. I know when I look at another one, that it'll make a lot more sense to me and I'll be able to fault find quicker and easier! 👍
Spoiler Saver I think you were incredibly unlucky on this one Steve, especially on your 1st attempt...So many faults to chase. At least subsequent fixes on these will now seem easy compared to this. Maybe the board has internal trace damage on the scrape in between the USB-C port pads, looked pretty deep. Great effort mate 👍
Cheers Vince! Yeah, I'd love to be able to work out for sure if the deep scrape had cut through something. I thought by running the jumper wires it would eliminate that, but I suppose there could be any number of traces under there. I'm going to have another go at it, it's possible I didn't solder on at least one of those chips properly! But you're spot on there, the next one i do has to be easier! I learnt so much on this one, so I'm still very happy with the attempt! 👍
Dude could you not post spoilers? Your comment is the top comment and just completely spoiled the video for me. Even without opening up comments, yours is at the top. Please have some consideration for others.
Good to see this Switch you received from the USA to fix there Steve its great to watch you repair items like this that are more involved and interesting to watch - Nice 1 mate 👍
So let's forget your years of experience, your knowledge, and your finely honed skills - how do you have the patience and determination to do this stuff? Incredible! I have no association with what you do but I am so amazed. Even on tasks you give up on I am amazed. Love the videos. Thank you.
A valiant attempt and a bit of collateral heating on such a small board is really tricky to avoid ... only thing I might have done differently would have been some triage before heating anything up i.e. disconnect the battery and hunt for shorts early ... adding usb power into a damaged board rarely improves it 😀... although I appreciate you might have cut this from the video for time. Do not be disheartened... interesting video and maybe deserves a part 2 at some point. Keep up the great work 👍😀
Well done Steve. You really gave it your all!! I'm not the one to offer up solutions but I really hope someone else can. I'd love to see you get it working.
I love the light hearted content of these fixit vids. You make the end users experience fun and we are rooting for you to persist. Keep up the good work and keep em coming Steve!
Wow! that poor switch had a trip to an electronics butcher ( Not! ) 👿 My bets on the what used to be the, pads/traces of the USB-C port now that... You fixed a number of the, most likely, the original faults. Before it was tortured, I hope you do a 'Fixed!' re-visit in the future brother Steve! It deserves it 🖖👍🏻
Thanks brother Steve! Yeah, I couldn't bring myself to take that USB-C port off again, but I think I will do and see if I can have another go. I'll also be replacing that MAX IC, so between all that, maybe there will still be some life left in this thing! If not, I got me some decent donor parts for the next one! 😬
I also had a switch like that. I identified liquid damage on it from the get go and a fried CPU. I did similiar to you and worked on it as a testing and learning board I guess. It had a very similar situation to yours. Great Effort!
Bravo Stez. This may not have been a "win" (yet), but this soldering skills and analysis with very little clues to go on is very admirable. From what I've seen, there seems to be a lot of issue Switches and even the top repairers are having issues, some even having to go to Oxbridge to earn a Master's Ology in Switch engineering and still struggle. Beaver man than me.
😁 thanks Toxo! I may yet get my PhD in Switchology, but in the interim, I'll probably have another poke around this board and see what happens! 😅 I don't like being beaten by anything, so would love to see this one up and running again! 👍
18:29 the IC was not properly soldered :) Also you smashed it down while hot air soldering, which it is the proper thing to do, but after that (and after removing the excess solder with the iron as you did) you have to add more flux, remelt the solder and touch it in one corner to make sure if there were shorts, they split apart. Maybe you have shorted the video chip pins, allowing power to go into the CPU by their data lines? Also if the USB doesn't detect the D+ and D- pins (because of bad soldering for example), depending on the units, sometimes they ignore the charger. Also your hot air station is good for destroying components because it doesn't keeps the same air flow and heat, invest on another without a blower inside the handle - doesn't need to be fancy, just needs to have an air pump for example.
Thank you! I'll definitely take another look at that P13 chip. I'll give it another go and see if I can do a better job! I have actually bought the Quick 861DW since filming this, because my cheap Yihua was on it's last legs. So that will make an appearance next time. Hopefully I'll have more luck with it! Really appreciate the comments. Thank you! 👍
This is the first time I watch one video of yours, and I must say that despite you claim you are not an expert, you are skilfull and you sure work like an expert.
Your soldering has come along way, awesome! As for the fault that's a tough one, take a close look at the LCD connector see if anything is touching inside it.
loving your soldering skills now. Not sure if anyone else has said this but at least you now have spare parts for future Switch fix videos. Just a shame you couldn't get this one working.
It would be boring if it was easy.......... I really like the way the community is chipping in to assist - of course you are in the middle of it all, so well done for keeping your head and continuing I look forward to the completion in 2023......😂
Wow your patience & skill. Well done mate, I’m sorry all your skillful efforts were in vain. You’re still an electrical wizard in my book 😊 Love the videos 👍
I felt your pain everytime you thought you found the fix and still nothing. Anybody who has ever tried to fault find and repair electronics knows the pain.
Thanks for these vids. I love that you show all the successes and frustrations. You inspired me to dust off my soldering iron and fix some gadgets around the house!!
Hey Steve, I’ve watched a few of your videos, they are really interesting. I now very little about the inner working of electronics and find your videos fascinating. Did you manage to fix this in the end? I can’t find a follow up video
Great video, will certainly save for pin out info etc. Thank you for keeping the magnet error within the clip, been looking at board holders and this issue never came into my head. You certainly short listed some that I was reviewing. Any recommendations while on the subject. Stay safe
Thanks Michael! I'd never thought of the magnets doing that until it happened! To be fair, it's still a really good board holder and it's my personal favourite since you can easily move the board around to the right angle (ideal to help with recording). I'd say it's still worth getting, just keep an eye out for any coils/inductors and position the magnets away from them! 👍
This is why I totally gave up on repairing anything. Nowadays, (for the last 6 years at least when I threw my soldering station away (after the heating element burnt out,) and everything to do with electronic repairing,) I just throw it away and get new/replacements. Let someone else go through the nightmare of repairing things. Or, in the case of game consoles, just emulate them. The one thing which through the whole video you never tested was the actual screen itself which I found really strange as it would of been my first thing to look at. Or plugging it into a dock to see if it outputted through there. BUt, hey ho, you are still learning, but great video anyway, Steve.
Great video Steve! Don't worry too much about it, you did everything you could :) Even if it was a fail, you still got the experience...at least this is what I've told myself after killing that second Xbox360 :D
Steve, yet again you have produced another great video! I really enjoy your problem solving process and narrowing down the faults. I’m keen to know if this gets repaired. If not, see if TheCod3r can attempt it. Would be cool to see something being shared around until it gets repaired (you, MyMateVince and TheCod3r etc). Keep up the great and entertaining videos!
Thanks Kieron, really appreciate that! I'll certainly be having another go at this. TheCod3r has offered, but I'd like to have one more go. If I can't do it, I'll take him up in the offer! 👍
One thing I use and seems other aren't too keen on, is conductive epoxy or conductive paint/inks, I started using them on Soviet quartz watches where soldering near the stepper motor is a big naughty no no but have found applying a conductive epoxy or paint with a fine needle a lot less bother than 1mm wire in some situations and when you have your circuit working just solder mask over to preserve the connection. On my watches I use a gold filled epoxy which is seriously good stuff.
I've wanted to give that stuff a go for a while. I bought a conductive ink pen, but i can't get it to function how I imagine its supposed to! I've since bought some paint and will give it a go on a future repair I'm sure. 😊
I look forward to your videos every week Steve. You are very funny and humble. Working on the Switch is very difficult. Love the determination, keep it up!
Yes Vince is absolute top banana in my books, he got me into watchmaking in a big way whilst I was in hospital recovering from a triple bypass and I haven't looked back since lol (about 300 working watches in collection O.o)
Like some others have said, I'd check the LCD connector. Also, did you ever try to actually power it on? I don't remember seeing that. I just saw you plug it in, see the power draw and the lack of the display lighting up, and you moved on. Did you ever try powering it up to see if the power draw changed?
Thanks Toby, yeah i did try to power it on each time. I had to edit several hours of video down, so it likely got cut. I'll definitely check out the LCD connector, appreciate the help! 👍
looking at the gouge under the usb port, i think i could see remnants or the edges of broken traces. plus it looked like the fist jumper wire, under the port, is lifting it a tiny bit
For such stuff, if you are unsure about the pinout and if the usb port is still soldered on, a USB breakout test pcb for 1 buck is a good tool. Its just a little pcb with male and female USB C and all the pins outside to measure it from the cable to its destination
I enjoy your videos. They are educational and also make me smile 😊. I wish I hadn't thrown away my electric music keyboard before finding your videos. ☹️
I still learn a lot from failure.. so yeah.. watched the whole video and am happy I did! One thing.. have you ever published a list of all the tools and supplies you use? I am loving that little thermal camera - I'm going to have to go back and get a still shot to try to identify it for my Christmas list, and I'd like to know what you're using to clean those boards after soldering..
Good attempt on this repair. I almost though by the look of the P13 chip that it wasn't properly seated (then it appears you may have don the same on the M92 as it also doesn't look centred).
Hi Stez, did you check if the lcd connector is good? I changed the max ic of my repair switch because it was getting hot. After installing a new max ic it stil got hot. My cpu also got hot sobit wad a bad cpu. Thx for this video!
Thanks Jimmy! 👍 Yeah, I'm pretty sure the LCD connector was good. That MAX IC is probably supposed to do that I guess. Luckily, my CPU doesn't seem to heat up, so I'm guessing I still have a broken connection somewhere. Probably on one of the chips I put on! I'm going to give it another go! 😬
Up with a smile man, that Switch had already decided to fuck with you before you even opened it up! And don´t say you are like the 3rd choise, you are a good fixer and even if we subbers not are many yet, we still enjoy to see you try to get your and others stuff working! Don´t say you wanna die, i can feel i wanna die when big dreams get hit into pieces by others or i loose someone i love, but an Nintendo Switch? Nah, would not think so, it´s replacement is never more far away then the closest electronics shop! Keep up what you are doing and have a greet smile cuz you make changes into peoples life who can extend the life or their stuff, instead for putting it in the garbage-can! /L
Yo Steven, it’s Stephen… again lol Haha as always I love the vids and I’ve learned a lot! Until we meet again sir… which will be the next time you post 😎
Hi Steve, I've only recently found your channel, having followed Vince for a while. I must say that I really enjoy your efforts, especially as you show simpler fixes on things like coffee machines and toys, rather than the incredibly complicated laptop type of fixes. It makes us mere mortals feel like we've got a chance at fixing stuff 😁 Could I ask what make and model you microscope is please ? Many thanks
Hi Steve , I really enjoy your videos. I have never ever repaired anything electronic successfully. I wonder if you used an oscilloscope somewhere you might find the problem and repair it?
Thanks Wolli! I wasn't sure whether this one would be too long! But that's the shortest I could've got it anyhow, there was loads happening in this one! 😁 I'm sure the revisit will be just as long! 👍
Hi... I don't suppose you remember what air flow rate you had the hot air set at? I guess quite slow or the other components would fly off? Really enjoy the videos. Jase.
I think using USPS counts as percussive maintenance. Whenever I've something shipped by them as soon as it gets into the UK parcelforce end up having to repair the packaging and parts tend to be missing.
Good shout, Jon! I was reluctant to take the port off incase I damaged it. But I've since bought a couple more ports, so i can afford to replace it if necessary. Will definitely be going back to this Switch to try a few more things! 👍
@@StezStixFixbefore you put the port on there was only one short on the video ic and you changed that and then you fixed the traces and put a new port on what I would have done is heated the port from underneath the board using your hot air and it would not have melted the plastic and then checked for shorts before you gave it power because I reckon that’s what took out the m92 chip I am hoping you do a follow up vid Steve and you win also I noticed you did not connect the game card reader which has the touch screen connector it might need that to boot
Thanks Jon. I didn't realise it needed that connecting, but I did put everything in at one point (probably cut it out of the vid) to try it and it behaved the same. You're probably right about the M92 too! 👍
!!!WOW!!! Just watched it after a year from release date :D. But, what a battle! This lost? I'd call it a learning experience, but not lost. I'm saying, if possible let's fix them all, but here was a really hard one + it was your first time! So, you're not a virgin anymore :D. Good job, and most of Us would for sure not do better than you, I'd say that we'd doo much worst ;). Plus, I admire your scope, it's really shaky, so an extra + for you that you're comfortable with it ;). The only thing I'd check apart of what you did would be to charge the battery and each time you did fix the issue try to turn it on. I don't know if you did it or not. I haven't seen it during watching it till the very end. Thank you for this video, was really nice to watch it.
Just found ur channel, idk if you still have this switch. It sounds dumb but I didnt charge my switch for a year and it wouldnt take a charge or turn on. I changed docks power supplies. A hard reset by holding the power button for 15 seconds allows it to charge again after a long period of sitting dead. I wonder after all your repairs if that would start it?
I just came across your channel. How would one go about learning to the things you do? I have been looking for a hobby of some kind for awhile and bring life back to electronics seems fun and challenging and worth while. Where would be a good starting point?
Oh another Cod3r Switch vid... no wait wrong channel hahaha. I love this vid, it would be like me if I was fixing a switch. I've found the issue, no wait, I've found the issue, now wait hahahah. Great vid as always
Not sure if it's been said already but could it possibly be in rgh mode? That would explain the screen staying black. Plug the switch into the pc and use TegraRcm to check. I know it's an old video so not sure if you've used the switch for parts already
If a Switch is charging, but the screen doesn't turn on, it might just be set to AutoRCM. You should have tried injecting a RCM payload so you know whether the X1 still works or it's just the screen that's broken. ;-)
Hi, this might be a bit of a shot in the dark but did William buy this Switch while it was already broken? The 0.5A charging indicate to me that at least something is/was working and if this is an older Switch it might be the case that it was jailbroken by the previous owner, which may mean that it will not fully turn on until the correct payload is sent via the USB port. This could cause the "lower" charging amperage. Unfortunately I cannot check if it indeed only draws this power at this state since I can't seem to find my usb Ampere-meter right now. However you should be able to check if this is the fault relatively easily if you connect it up to a computer, it should then show up as some sort of device (if not, maybe the program TegraRcmGUI will show something). That is of course after you reinstall the power chip :)
Thanks MetalLeet! Im not sure of the prior background of this Switch, but you could well be right! I did actually see a video this week by Andrew Paul who said that this can happen, so I will definitely be giving it a go! Really appreciate the help! 👍
I swear you worked harder on saving that switch, than the doctors did saving my nan. You have my admiration sir. And a new sub
Looks like the UA-cam algorithm recommended this 2 year old video to you too :D I also subscribed!
Looks like the UA-cam algorithm recommended this 2 year old video to you too :D I also subscribed!
@gavinstirling7088 ha! Yes, I'm glad it did. Better late than never, I've watched about 5 so far, and the self-made music is a nice touch 😂.
that YT Algorithm is such a Mess!
Dang dude that's savage and sad at the same time.
I will say though, I've been watching him for a few years and he always claims to not know much. Maybe he doesn't in the grand scheme of repairs, but I've seen him pull off fixes I wouldn't even dream of attempting. His moxy alone makes him a formidable fixer of things...
I’ve become addicted. This is my favorite video so far. I don’t mind the length at all with this content.
Sometimes you win, sometimes you learn. Never Lose. Great video as always.
best comment
That is exactly how I have learned to work on boards. Well messed that up oh well learned something new in the process lol cost me a bit if money but so does experience
Thank you, SOO SO much for sharing your workings out. The drawing you shown at 35:40 of the USB-C breakout board and how it should work on a good switch was able to help me identify a short between pin 6 and 7 on the switch I am currently working on. (My diode readings on both were double.)
Thanks Liam! That's awesome, glad it helped you out! 👍
I'm only half way through, but before I forget I want to commend you Steve, your control with the iron and hot air has come on leaps and bounds. Don't you dare take my customers Mr. Stez 😁
😁 Cheers Phil, appreciate that mate. I can tell I'm getting better, but still got a way to go! 👍
@@StezStixFix you definitely are! I'll leave another comment soon, I'm almost through, but I also want to say you're right on a few things that you concluded on the faults
@@StezStixFixhi uxulhxppguxli
@@TheCod3rI scrolled through my entire (available) UA-cam history but I couldn't find you, and you're sitting here and chatting with Stez 🙂
Your content is super fun and informative ❤
Hes the pro@SONNYemc
Just want to say thanks for the shout, and also a few things to point out 😀
M92 can indeed show good but still be bad, and cause charging on one side only
The cap shorted on m92 is directly linked to p13usb.
If the cap is still short once p13usb is removed the cpu is dead, or the single cap on the bottom of m92 otherwise the cpu is good
Chances are the next layer on the port is shorting something out, either that or you have an incorrectly installed p13usb, it's hard to tell on the andonstar with the depth perception it has but that's my best 2 guesses. Great video though, really enjoyed this one
Cheers mate, really appreciate the feedback!
Sounds like the CPU might still be OK. I'll have a go at the P13 again. I'll take it off and try again. Maybe it's not seated quite right 👍
I hope it's that and not the layers under the port. The damage was pretty severe, but I couldn't find anything shorting out, but I don't know if it's cut through something or not! 😳
Thanks for all you help, I'll definitely be having another go at this! 👍
Though I don't know the ABC of electronics but I love watching your stuffs. Really, Appreciate your affords.
I applaud your efforts. This board would be scrapped without inspection at any official repair shops and 99% of aftermarket repairers after looking at that USB-C. Worst is the owner had already meddled with it meaning your already at a HUGE disadvantage.
Your resilience and resolve to fix the device is commendable Steve. Big 👍👍
I call this progress and it is not a fail. I have done the same on switches and I did get failure and success. Even a failure becomes a success on another board as the experience it creates is invaluable. I called this type of failure a learning curve if that makes sense.
Thanks M! Yeah, you're absolutely correct. Even though it's still not working, I learnt so much on this for a first attempt. I know when I look at another one, that it'll make a lot more sense to me and I'll be able to fault find quicker and easier! 👍
Spoiler Saver
I think you were incredibly unlucky on this one Steve, especially on your 1st attempt...So many faults to chase. At least subsequent fixes on these will now seem easy compared to this. Maybe the board has internal trace damage on the scrape in between the USB-C port pads, looked pretty deep. Great effort mate 👍
Cheers Vince! Yeah, I'd love to be able to work out for sure if the deep scrape had cut through something. I thought by running the jumper wires it would eliminate that, but I suppose there could be any number of traces under there. I'm going to have another go at it, it's possible I didn't solder on at least one of those chips properly!
But you're spot on there, the next one i do has to be easier! I learnt so much on this one, so I'm still very happy with the attempt! 👍
Dude could you not post spoilers? Your comment is the top comment and just completely spoiled the video for me. Even without opening up comments, yours is at the top. Please have some consideration for others.
I absolutely love that the two of you commenting on eachothers vids. I follow you both intensively! 😂
@@janemba42 I agree. Spoiled it. Lame.
The problem is the effort was wasted. You could tell just by looking at it that it wasn't going to work.
Good to see this Switch you received from the USA to fix there Steve its great to watch you repair items like this that are more involved and interesting to watch - Nice 1 mate 👍
Thanks Chris. This one was way more difficult than I thought it would be, but I've learnt alot, so I'm happy! 👍
So let's forget your years of experience, your knowledge, and your finely honed skills - how do you have the patience and determination to do this stuff? Incredible! I have no association with what you do but I am so amazed. Even on tasks you give up on I am amazed.
Love the videos. Thank you.
Sorry to see this one giving you so much troubles!! Looking forward to an update!
A valiant attempt and a bit of collateral heating on such a small board is really tricky to avoid ... only thing I might have done differently would have been some triage before heating anything up i.e. disconnect the battery and hunt for shorts early ... adding usb power into a damaged board rarely improves it 😀... although I appreciate you might have cut this from the video for time.
Do not be disheartened... interesting video and maybe deserves a part 2 at some point. Keep up the great work 👍😀
Thanks Chris! I'll definitely be going back to it at some point. I learnt alot on my first attempt, so I'd be much more comfortable next time. 👍
Well done Steve. You really gave it your all!! I'm not the one to offer up solutions but I really hope someone else can. I'd love to see you get it working.
Thanks Stuart! I've had a few good suggestions so far, so hopefully I can have another go at it and see where it goes. 👍
I love the light hearted content of these fixit vids. You make the end users experience fun and we are rooting for you to persist. Keep up the good work and keep em coming Steve!
Wow! that poor switch had a trip to an electronics butcher ( Not! ) 👿 My bets on the what used to be the, pads/traces of the USB-C port now that...
You fixed a number of the, most likely, the original faults. Before it was tortured, I hope you do a 'Fixed!' re-visit in the future brother Steve! It deserves it 🖖👍🏻
Thanks brother Steve! Yeah, I couldn't bring myself to take that USB-C port off again, but I think I will do and see if I can have another go. I'll also be replacing that MAX IC, so between all that, maybe there will still be some life left in this thing! If not, I got me some decent donor parts for the next one! 😬
I also had a switch like that. I identified liquid damage on it from the get go and a fried CPU. I did similiar to you and worked on it as a testing and learning board I guess. It had a very similar situation to yours. Great Effort!
I don’t know if he did a follow up to this but I’m pretty sure if the max IC is shorted then it’s a dead APU, someone please correct me if I’m wrong.
Bravo Stez. This may not have been a "win" (yet), but this soldering skills and analysis with very little clues to go on is very admirable.
From what I've seen, there seems to be a lot of issue Switches and even the top repairers are having issues, some even having to go to Oxbridge to earn a Master's Ology in Switch engineering and still struggle.
Beaver man than me.
😁 thanks Toxo! I may yet get my PhD in Switchology, but in the interim, I'll probably have another poke around this board and see what happens! 😅
I don't like being beaten by anything, so would love to see this one up and running again! 👍
I'd so want to see you beat this,@@StezStixFix. If you do, I'll send a telegram to the Buck residents requesting an MBE.
18:29 the IC was not properly soldered :)
Also you smashed it down while hot air soldering, which it is the proper thing to do, but after that (and after removing the excess solder with the iron as you did) you have to add more flux, remelt the solder and touch it in one corner to make sure if there were shorts, they split apart.
Maybe you have shorted the video chip pins, allowing power to go into the CPU by their data lines?
Also if the USB doesn't detect the D+ and D- pins (because of bad soldering for example), depending on the units, sometimes they ignore the charger.
Also your hot air station is good for destroying components because it doesn't keeps the same air flow and heat, invest on another without a blower inside the handle - doesn't need to be fancy, just needs to have an air pump for example.
Thank you! I'll definitely take another look at that P13 chip. I'll give it another go and see if I can do a better job!
I have actually bought the Quick 861DW since filming this, because my cheap Yihua was on it's last legs. So that will make an appearance next time. Hopefully I'll have more luck with it!
Really appreciate the comments. Thank you! 👍
@@StezStixFix NP, keep up the interesting videos :)
Have a great day
Damn right. I missed it live.
This is the first time I watch one video of yours, and I must say that despite you claim you are not an expert, you are skilfull and you sure work like an expert.
Your soldering has come along way, awesome! As for the fault that's a tough one, take a close look at the LCD connector see if anything is touching inside it.
Thanks Micro! Really appreciate that. I'll take a look and see if I can see anything shorting out. 👍
When you have a large blob of solder under a chip that you plan to seat, use your heat gun to float it out so the hip lies level for refloating. :)
Well done darling. I love your process and intuition and you publish when it did not work out! That is pretty awesome.
loving your soldering skills now. Not sure if anyone else has said this but at least you now have spare parts for future Switch fix videos. Just a shame you couldn't get this one working.
Thanks Tony! 👍 I'm hoping to have another go at this one, but I think you're right, i might just have to use it as a donor! 😊
@@StezStixFix fixing it is obviously preferable and would be good to see but at least it still has value as a donor :)
It would be boring if it was easy..........
I really like the way the community is chipping in to assist - of course you are in the middle of it all, so well done for keeping your head and continuing
I look forward to the completion in 2023......😂
😁 thanks Guy! I have plenty of advice, so I'll see what I can pick out of it! 2023 might be pushing it though! 😂
So thorough & amazing patience you have, watched the whole video & enjoyed it too. I feel your anguish at the end.
Mate don't apologise its fascinating watching your reasoning, keep it up bud
Loved this Steve. They are fun to work on but seriously stressful. I have soldering skill envy! Great job buddy!
Cheers Wayne! The soldering was a challenge, and some of it is a bit messy, but I'm happy with how I'm getting better at it! 👍
Wow your patience & skill. Well done mate, I’m sorry all your skillful efforts were in vain. You’re still an electrical wizard in my book 😊 Love the videos 👍
I don't know why but these videos are very relaxing. Thank you!
Great to watch your troubleshooting process even if it didn't work out.
Very inspiring. Have sorted out my intercom and laptop encouraged by the persistence demonstrated in this video
I felt your pain everytime you thought you found the fix and still nothing. Anybody who has ever tried to fault find and repair electronics knows the pain.
Thanks for these vids. I love that you show all the successes and frustrations. You inspired me to dust off my soldering iron and fix some gadgets around the house!!
Hey Steve, I’ve watched a few of your videos, they are really interesting. I now very little about the inner working of electronics and find your videos fascinating. Did you manage to fix this in the end? I can’t find a follow up video
Looks like someone played around soldering on this thing and messed up quite a bit and you fixed it
I don't care about the outcome i am in awe of your persistence
Wow this one looks like an uphill struggle from the very start. 10/10 for even trying.
Thanks Phil. I knew I had my work cut out on this one. Hopefully I'll be able to have another go with more success! 👍
You're awesome you're doing all the stuff that I was thinking about but I'm just not able to do that kind of repair work anymore I love it
Thanks William! And thank you so much for sending it over to me. I really enjoyed working on this! (Despite me looking all grumpy in the video! 😂)
Great video, will certainly save for pin out info etc. Thank you for keeping the magnet error within the clip, been looking at board holders and this issue never came into my head. You certainly short listed some that I was reviewing. Any recommendations while on the subject. Stay safe
Thanks Michael! I'd never thought of the magnets doing that until it happened! To be fair, it's still a really good board holder and it's my personal favourite since you can easily move the board around to the right angle (ideal to help with recording). I'd say it's still worth getting, just keep an eye out for any coils/inductors and position the magnets away from them! 👍
Not sure if you've found it yet, but NorthridgeFix on UA-cam is an excellent channel when it comes to working on stuff like this.
tbh watching ur longer videos makes me perform greater during my learning sessions
Im really happy that I found you. You have a really special kind of humor that I don't know before but I really like . Just "nice." 🤣
This is a heroic effort. Good luck with your puzzle.
This is why I totally gave up on repairing anything. Nowadays, (for the last 6 years at least when I threw my soldering station away (after the heating element burnt out,) and everything to do with electronic repairing,) I just throw it away and get new/replacements. Let someone else go through the nightmare of repairing things. Or, in the case of game consoles, just emulate them. The one thing which through the whole video you never tested was the actual screen itself which I found really strange as it would of been my first thing to look at. Or plugging it into a dock to see if it outputted through there. BUt, hey ho, you are still learning, but great video anyway, Steve.
Great video Steve!
Don't worry too much about it, you did everything you could :)
Even if it was a fail, you still got the experience...at least this is what I've told myself after killing that second Xbox360 :D
Thanks Norrecito! I definitely learnt alot doing this, so yeah I'm happy with the experience! Sorry to hear you killed another X360! 😁
Steve, yet again you have produced another great video! I really enjoy your problem solving process and narrowing down the faults. I’m keen to know if this gets repaired. If not, see if TheCod3r can attempt it. Would be cool to see something being shared around until it gets repaired (you, MyMateVince and TheCod3r etc). Keep up the great and entertaining videos!
Thanks Kieron, really appreciate that! I'll certainly be having another go at this. TheCod3r has offered, but I'd like to have one more go. If I can't do it, I'll take him up in the offer! 👍
@@StezStixFix awesome! I definitely want to see you beat this! I have every faith in you pal!
Cheers Kieron! I'm definitely going to try my best! 👍
One thing I use and seems other aren't too keen on, is conductive epoxy or conductive paint/inks, I started using them on Soviet quartz watches where soldering near the stepper motor is a big naughty no no but have found applying a conductive epoxy or paint with a fine needle a lot less bother than 1mm wire in some situations and when you have your circuit working just solder mask over to preserve the connection. On my watches I use a gold filled epoxy which is seriously good stuff.
I've wanted to give that stuff a go for a while. I bought a conductive ink pen, but i can't get it to function how I imagine its supposed to! I've since bought some paint and will give it a go on a future repair I'm sure. 😊
I feel so badly! One can see the energy just drain from your face over time as you work on this dog.
I look forward to your videos every week Steve. You are very funny and humble. Working on the Switch is very difficult. Love the determination, keep it up!
Thanks Travis! I put lots of time and effort into this Switch, and gutted I had to call it a day! I'll definitely be going back to it though! 👍
Yes Vince is absolute top banana in my books, he got me into watchmaking in a big way whilst I was in hospital recovering from a triple bypass and I haven't looked back since lol (about 300 working watches in collection O.o)
Nice! I imagine plenty of people have done similar. He's certainly an inspiration. And 300 watches is impressive going! 👏
Amazing ! the work you put in is more than what it took to get man to the Moon
man definite A for effort on this one. I would have given up long before you did!
Great effort, hope you can get this working after the all time you’ve put in. I’m Looking forward to part 2.
Thanks Dan. Yeah, I really put everything I could into this one! Hopefully I'll have more luck in the revisit! 👍
@@StezStixFix Any chance this one is still on your list of things to revisit? I'd love to see you defeat this beast.
Like some others have said, I'd check the LCD connector.
Also, did you ever try to actually power it on? I don't remember seeing that. I just saw you plug it in, see the power draw and the lack of the display lighting up, and you moved on. Did you ever try powering it up to see if the power draw changed?
Thanks Toby, yeah i did try to power it on each time. I had to edit several hours of video down, so it likely got cut. I'll definitely check out the LCD connector, appreciate the help! 👍
Wow you worked so hard at this, well done for trying.
looking at the gouge under the usb port, i think i could see remnants or the edges of broken traces. plus it looked like the fist jumper wire, under the port, is lifting it a tiny bit
For such stuff, if you are unsure about the pinout and if the usb port is still soldered on, a USB breakout test pcb for 1 buck is a good tool. Its just a little pcb with male and female USB C and all the pins outside to measure it from the cable to its destination
I enjoy your videos. They are educational and also make me smile 😊. I wish I hadn't thrown away my electric music keyboard before finding your videos. ☹️
I still learn a lot from failure.. so yeah.. watched the whole video and am happy I did! One thing.. have you ever published a list of all the tools and supplies you use? I am loving that little thermal camera - I'm going to have to go back and get a still shot to try to identify it for my Christmas list, and I'd like to know what you're using to clean those boards after soldering..
Very nice logical job - good job it wasn't the microcontroller as well !
I'm a little surprised after all that work u didn't try changing the battery. Easy test to try
Good attempt on this repair. I almost though by the look of the P13 chip that it wasn't properly seated (then it appears you may have don the same on the M92 as it also doesn't look centred).
Hi Stez, did you check if the lcd connector is good? I changed the max ic of my repair switch because it was getting hot. After installing a new max ic it stil got hot. My cpu also got hot sobit wad a bad cpu. Thx for this video!
Thanks Jimmy! 👍 Yeah, I'm pretty sure the LCD connector was good. That MAX IC is probably supposed to do that I guess. Luckily, my CPU doesn't seem to heat up, so I'm guessing I still have a broken connection somewhere. Probably on one of the chips I put on! I'm going to give it another go! 😬
Up with a smile man, that Switch had already decided to fuck with you before you even opened it up!
And don´t say you are like the 3rd choise, you are a good fixer and even if we subbers not are many yet, we still enjoy to see you try to get your and others stuff working!
Don´t say you wanna die, i can feel i wanna die when big dreams get hit into pieces by others or i loose someone i love, but an Nintendo Switch? Nah, would not think so, it´s replacement is never more far away then the closest electronics shop!
Keep up what you are doing and have a greet smile cuz you make changes into peoples life who can extend the life or their stuff, instead for putting it in the garbage-can!
/L
Yo Steven, it’s Stephen… again lol Haha as always I love the vids and I’ve learned a lot! Until we meet again sir… which will be the next time you post 😎
Hey Stephen! Thanks for that, much appreciated! 👍 Steven.
Any update on this one? Would love to see a second go at it.
The APU is keyed to the eMMC if you do ever decide to try to swap one. (Meaning, you'll have to get your hands on a matched set )
Hi Steve, I've only recently found your channel, having followed Vince for a while. I must say that I really enjoy your efforts, especially as you show simpler fixes on things like coffee machines and toys, rather than the incredibly complicated laptop type of fixes. It makes us mere mortals feel like we've got a chance at fixing stuff 😁
Could I ask what make and model you microscope is please ? Many thanks
I love seeing you rip apart electronics and fixing up the shizz within!
10 minutes in and I'm rooting for you so much!! Thanks for the awesome content, really appreciate it!
Hi Steve , I really enjoy your videos. I have never ever repaired anything electronic successfully. I wonder if you used an oscilloscope somewhere you might find the problem and repair it?
Another great video. Please do more long videos its so entertaining and interesting!
Thanks Wolli! I wasn't sure whether this one would be too long! But that's the shortest I could've got it anyhow, there was loads happening in this one! 😁 I'm sure the revisit will be just as long! 👍
Hi... I don't suppose you remember what air flow rate you had the hot air set at? I guess quite slow or the other components would fly off? Really enjoy the videos. Jase.
my temper would of got the better of me with the end result and it would of been taking flying lessons. good effort steve
Haha. I was very tempted to do that on several occasions! 😂
Love this content and your approach is amazing, can’t believe I watched a whole video this long, I became so invested😊 did you ever get it fixed ?
I think using USPS counts as percussive maintenance. Whenever I've something shipped by them as soon as it gets into the UK parcelforce end up having to repair the packaging and parts tend to be missing.
Like a dog that won't let go of a bone..awesome determination and will power
steve take the usb port off and see if any of the inner pads are shorting and see if that clears the short on the capacitor
Good shout, Jon! I was reluctant to take the port off incase I damaged it. But I've since bought a couple more ports, so i can afford to replace it if necessary. Will definitely be going back to this Switch to try a few more things! 👍
@@StezStixFixbefore you put the port on there was only one short on the video ic and you changed that and then you fixed the traces and put a new port on what I would have done is heated the port from underneath the board using your hot air and it would not have melted the plastic and then checked for shorts before you gave it power because I reckon that’s what took out the m92 chip I am hoping you do a follow up vid Steve and you win also I noticed you did not connect the game card reader which has the touch screen connector it might need that to boot
Thanks Jon. I didn't realise it needed that connecting, but I did put everything in at one point (probably cut it out of the vid) to try it and it behaved the same. You're probably right about the M92 too! 👍
Please do more game cartridge fix videos, keep them around 10-15 mins and I’ll watch them ^.^
Great effort! Needs redubbing to fix the reference to anything 'solid' though!
Hey!! What do I see there in the back? Z5500 speakers!!
Use your heat gun to level the centre pad on the chips and don't press down on the chips as that can cause shorts.
Thanks pds! I'll give it another go. 👍
Your videos are super entertaining. Keep up the great work. May I ask what video editing software you use? Best wishes
Take a sub my friend. Why do I enjoy watching a middle aged bloke fix electrical boards? 😂
The Video chip at 18:30 does not look properly soldered at the long side towards the filters.
I noticed this as well
Holy hand grenade 😂 my girl got me a shirt with the coat of arms for the knights who say "ikky ikky ikky pu tang zoom boing"
!!!WOW!!! Just watched it after a year from release date :D. But, what a battle! This lost? I'd call it a learning experience, but not lost. I'm saying, if possible let's fix them all, but here was a really hard one + it was your first time! So, you're not a virgin anymore :D. Good job, and most of Us would for sure not do better than you, I'd say that we'd doo much worst ;).
Plus, I admire your scope, it's really shaky, so an extra + for you that you're comfortable with it ;).
The only thing I'd check apart of what you did would be to charge the battery and each time you did fix the issue try to turn it on. I don't know if you did it or not. I haven't seen it during watching it till the very end. Thank you for this video, was really nice to watch it.
Just found ur channel, idk if you still have this switch. It sounds dumb but I didnt charge my switch for a year and it wouldnt take a charge or turn on. I changed docks power supplies. A hard reset by holding the power button for 15 seconds allows it to charge again after a long period of sitting dead. I wonder after all your repairs if that would start it?
I just came across your channel. How would one go about learning to the things you do? I have been looking for a hobby of some kind for awhile and bring life back to electronics seems fun and challenging and worth while. Where would be a good starting point?
Oh another Cod3r Switch vid... no wait wrong channel hahaha. I love this vid, it would be like me if I was fixing a switch. I've found the issue, no wait, I've found the issue, now wait hahahah. Great vid as always
Haha, thanks Beaps! That's exactly what it was like 😂. I'm not sure if I kept causing another issue each time I replaced something! 😬
Nice work Steve. That USB prior work was a nightmare 😀
😁 Thanks Kiki! It was certainly a challenge!
I believe you roasted that usb-c connector... (haven't we all!)
Great video.its a shame I feel your pain win some lose some
Not sure if it's been said already but could it possibly be in rgh mode? That would explain the screen staying black.
Plug the switch into the pc and use TegraRcm to check. I know it's an old video so not sure if you've used the switch for parts already
If a Switch is charging, but the screen doesn't turn on, it might just be set to AutoRCM. You should have tried injecting a RCM payload so you know whether the X1 still works or it's just the screen that's broken. ;-)
Thanks Simon, I'll do that on the next one for sure! 👍
good job and bad luck mate.
Thanks RF! 👍
Hi, this might be a bit of a shot in the dark but did William buy this Switch while it was already broken? The 0.5A charging indicate to me that at least something is/was working and if this is an older Switch it might be the case that it was jailbroken by the previous owner, which may mean that it will not fully turn on until the correct payload is sent via the USB port. This could cause the "lower" charging amperage. Unfortunately I cannot check if it indeed only draws this power at this state since I can't seem to find my usb Ampere-meter right now. However you should be able to check if this is the fault relatively easily if you connect it up to a computer, it should then show up as some sort of device (if not, maybe the program TegraRcmGUI will show something). That is of course after you reinstall the power chip :)
Thanks MetalLeet! Im not sure of the prior background of this Switch, but you could well be right! I did actually see a video this week by Andrew Paul who said that this can happen, so I will definitely be giving it a go! Really appreciate the help! 👍
@@StezStixFix Sure, glad to help! Keep up the nice videos!