Thank you so much for your channel. I had been stuck in my deadend QA/Triage job for a couple years and was about to quit when I first started watching your videos. You do a great job of being informative and entertaining while still being humble about your ability. It was that that reignited my interest and made me insist to my superior to let my apply to their open solder tech position. Long story short three weeks of practice at home with your videos and various youtube tutorials to keep my company and a test last week and I am now a solder tech.
You asked how people make it look so easy, but we aren't watching those people. Your persistence is inspiring! People who know exactly what they're doing aren't fun to watch. I don't know how to repair electronics, but I'm interested. I love it!
Generally with low voltage electronics, all of the grounds will be connected(which is why every cap seemed to be "shorted"). If you do find a short anywhere, one good trick to narrow things down quickly is to look for fuses(or even larger inductors) - You can use them to your advantage to isolate the positive rails of different areas on the pcb. I think of them as little diagnostic switches you can open(remove), and then re-test to see what area is still shorted. Once you find one of those that clears the short from the majority of the board, you'll be down to a much smaller area to check for the culprit.
Patience of a saint Steve and well done for sticking with it - amazing to think it seems to have been all because of that tiny capacitor - they are so small in reality!!Great fix man!!😃😃
This is exactly why right to repair is so important. One small cheap component failed and normally the whole speaker would be thrown away. Having schematic of the board would have helped to diagnose the problem.
Just for future reference, there's fairly little point in taking an MCU off. Even if it is the cause of the fault AND you can source a new replacement, you still need the program the manufacturer put in it to make it work again, which is a non-starter in most cases. Better to diagnose a faulty MCU by process of elimination and then just keep the unit for spares.
Good work Steve, you're getting better and better at fault diagnosis. Now word of advice, when you're looking for a short and start removing components, do not put them back until you've cleared it, why is this important? Because you can accidently introduce a short of your own by accidently making bridges etc, then it can become a real headache real quick. SO when doing this type of work and you suspect a component is the culprit and you remove it, and it turns out not to be the cause of the short just leave it out of circuit until you've cleared the original short, then resolder all the remaining components you originally removed back to the board. All in all good work mate.
thats why there should be more places where things get repaired instead of throwing away everything. An companies should start to make things again which last longer then just a year or two
@@mutosanrc1933 they were actually making things easy to assemble and disassemble.. making it easier to repair. Things weren't compact and glued too tight as well in earlier those days, I remember that old Mac PC was so nice to maintain and then things got changed to the extent that we're forced to dump them if slight damage occurr.
unfortunately it's a question of economics, these components and boards are so cheap to make these days, even if it's a tiny fault like this, it easily takes an hour of work from a skilled person and will cost you more than just replacing, that is if you can find anyone capable of doing this.
So, many years ago in Ireland my Uncle used to fix Bicycles when no-one else could. He took them apart and put them back together again - often with spare bits left over that didn't make any difference to whether the bike worked or not.................... My elderly Granny used to say: "The man who put it there in the first place was a quar fool then wasn't he ?????? " This sort of reminds me of those days ....... LOL. I love your videos - every single time I'm inspired to buy useless non-working junk off ebay.......... I haven't succumbed yet - but when i do - IT WILL BE YOUR FAULT AND I WILL SEND THAT ITEM TO YOU.......
I dont understand alot of what you're doing and saying but enough to follow along. It's good to see old things fixed and used. I've had no end of stuff thrown away to a variety of issues over the years I'd of loved to of seen fixed and in working order again. Great videos man
Oh my gosh, this video is amazing. Thank you so much - I'm learning a ton from watching you fault find through these. You're one of the people who inspired me to start learning about electronics and I've even made a little bit of side money from repairing them and reselling them thanks to you. You truly ignited a love for things like this that I didn't know I even had!
Hi would you consider fixing 1980s Nissan electrical widgits because I think it would be really interesting and I own two. Also broken stuff is cheap and working components worth a mint.
Loved that Steve. Not been on your channel for ages but I was talking to Vince a week or so ago and he mentioned you. Your channel is doing mega since Christmas (I did one of the Vince YT fixers Xmas specials) I know nothing about electronics but I loved this video mate good fix!
I have been binging your channel for a week or so and I am seeing a theme of , Voltage regulator chips, capacitors of ever increasing smallness and flyaway ability, also usb sockets being mangled being the fault usually and also they seem to be the most annoying jobs and very fiddly, I salute your patience. During lock down I bought myself a soldering iron station and a multimeter and all the gubbins, it's all still in the box lol.
Dear Stezger (did you see what I did there - did you see??!!) your timing is impeccable Sir, after spending the afternoon repairing a fence panel in my Mums garden, picking up the requisite Indian takeaway, I come home to a brand new video from you! Wonderful to watch and eat at the same time!
Hi Steve, i'm pretty sure I've watched everything you've put out. This is a new favourite. I learnt loads from this. Yeah, this one is your best work so far. And yes, I said solid.
When testing capacitor for shorts with a cont or diode test on a DMM , you MUST back up a short by testing the resistance because its HIGHLY likely that they aren't dead short , but just very low resistance so , find a shorted one , check the resistance , as you get closer to the bad one you will get closer to a dead short on the meter
So I’m very curious about the capacitor that was removed. If you take out that capacitor and now it works, do you eventually find out what capacitor is supposed to be there so that you can replace that or can you just go without? Obviously the capacitor was put in for a reason.
It's just not practical to replace without just guessing since without another board or rare to exist schematic but you don't want to swap it with something that is rated much higher. The cap is only there to add increased current stability but losing one usually won't be an issue as long as it's not on the CPU or something critical. Tiny ceramic caps job is much less crucial than large cylinder type caps.
especially being near a fuse that cap was likely just power smoothing/stability. Likely will be no issue with removing it as it's just part of good design practice but not necessarily needed for operation. it's probably something like a 0.1uF, 1uF, or 10uF.
Just go without older electronics had big electrolyte capacitors that dont fit into smartphones as an example. They are replaced with small smd capacitors and lots of them to make the value of the big old ones that dont fit. So losing 1 capacitor there is still enough left for the value. Or as someone once said if the queen has 100 guards and 1 calls in sick the queen is not in danger she still has 99 guards
I don't normally listen to VOS, but this time he was on point. Love watching you fiddle with things no matter if they end up working or not. Appreciate the content Steve!
I'm a new subscriber and you have already improved my life. My repairs don't always go well but I've identified my problem. I'm going to trade my multimeter in for a new multimeter. Things will go better. Thank you
First off, im not british. I am from the u.s. so im not sure what your terminology would be but i will give it an attempt. Your sense of humor is so funny. Like when you said that was the question on your lips not everyone, that would be weird. I guess its cheeky as you guys say. It is hilarious. Your cheeky sense of humor. Is that right?
Good One! I think it's amazing how quickly your channel has grown. I remember when you hit your 5K subscribers. There I was still hoping that you would soon make 10K subscribers, but it looks like you may have reached 100K soon. Keep it up!
I love what you are doing. Could you give us more scale on the things you use and the stuff you are fixing. Perhaps introduce something as scale reference like a 1cm cube of blutac?!
I'm not sure exactly, but it may be some filter cap which is not critical for proper function of the device, and it can work without. It should be replaced with new capacitor with the proper capacity (if its just the filter one the value is not strictly critical, too) for normal/long term use, though... I think by the look that it's ceramic one...
You were "sad" when it wasn't the MCU.... Being someone who writes firmware for MCUs I was happy for you. As there was no way you are going to replace that STM and have it work without a donor from another unit as it would need to have the firmware that runs it flashed onto it. So seeing that the problem was something else that was probably just a failed component was the best outcome. Good stuff. I love watching your videos. You have such a good attitude and a hilarious way of going about it.
You can use tools like UrJTAG or OpenOCD to read or “snarf” the contents of flash. However, some developers take steps to protect or disable debug interfaces such as JTAG, UART and ICSP, but more often than not you can dump the flash chip directly. It does require an EE/EPROM reader/programmer and the correct chip socket or adapter (should be included).
@@vadimbellous8313 yes it's possible with all the right stuff... At least if the MCU isn't too locked down. That task is a bit out there for a channel like this though. Those tools often involve at least some knowledge of the MCU architecture. But to be fair I did say something along the lines of "not possible" so I guess I should revise that to "not practical".
Just for future reference; MCU = Microcontroller. Replacing it won't work without the firmware. They come blank ,or with a default program from distributors (mouser, digikey, etc). If you're buying thousands you can discuss buying them pre-programmed from the manufacturer, a few hundred and you'd have the PCB assembler program them in circuit as part of the assembly process. You can program them yourself, but you need access to the specific "I'm a bluetooth speaker" program written (or commissioned) by LG
I own one LG PK7 Boom box +Meridian. I'm still genuinely impressed by it's build quality and of it's impressive bass output from two passive woofers. The battery lasts about 8 hours at full volume per charge. However in my opinion, the charging is the biggest drawback as it requires a dedicated 19vdc charger brick. It would have been most useful to be able to charge it with a 12vdc brick.
Interesting fix.. can’t understand why it would function with a component missing? As a capacitor or even a fuse they are mounted inline no? Without them I thought the power would not get thru? Or did you bridge that connection and not show it?
Nice detective-ing! I wonder if Sysm could check the value on the other speaker 🤔 Guessing that cap was just doing a bit of stabilization or filtering that's not strictly necessary
Thanks AFU! Yeah, I don't think it's that important but I could definitely ask him if my one starts behaving odd. Working perfectly though and it's a great little speaker! 😊
Did you make a video of the disassembly? I did unscrew both ends but everything is inside the tube structure and I see few things sticked to the tube walls. How can I pull out the motherboard without damaging anything else? Cheers!
Maybe you should build or buy a short finder. most models work in-circuit and use low voltage, so the PN junctions don’t turn on. This means you usually don’t have to remove ICs and capacitors during testing.
I've found your channel only recently, but thoroughly enjoy watching items being fixed. I would like to ask what type of wire do you use for fixing traces?
FB is likely a Ferrite Bead. Will read as a short. Will act as a fuse somewhat if you try and push amps though them, but not what they are meant to do :D
Well found Steve ... perhaps this is the opportunity to get yourself a short circuit finder? I can recommend the VC480+ Milliohm meter but there are plenty of others which can help narrow the search. See Learn Electronics Repair channel’s video ‘MicroOhm Meter Short Circuit Finder Review Comparison...’
Great video, Steve. My kid burst out laughing everytime the little chipmunk voice and character came on. So my childs joy was a nice bonus to this video. Thanks for the content.
New subscriber here. Looking at your "info" to see if you've linked to your little thermal camera and you have! The only issue is it's out of stock on Amazon and there's no clue if it'll be back in stock. Such a handy little gadget. What swung it for me was seeing "My desoldering gun that goes moo" as that made me laugh out loud. I was at a demoparty a few years ago, I was with a mate and we've got for the same desoldering stations that both go moo and it became a bit of a cow joke while working on boards :)
Thanks so much for you content, it is because of you I fixed my 42" TV, I would never have attempted it, do not have the tools you have but in the end I just swapped out the small circuit board that I found was faulty, and hey presto all fixed. Thanks so much keep the great videos great fun!! Stupid TV! 😃
Well done, though you should replace the capacitor which was connected to that ferrite bead and acted as a form of LC filter for power rail noise (protecting other components). To determine the value, look at the other unit (that the sender fixed).
Just wondering (noob myself), could you not use actual resistance measurement to maybe figure out where the short is, kinda? The further away from the short you are, the higher the resistance of the traces on the PCB?
Watching a week later and your already 1k more subs. Fair play to you Steve your doing great. I still haven't hit that 1st 1K so know how much of a achievement it is to get these great number :) Also that was a shock, 1 tiny component like that stopping it, also shocked it worked without it tbh haha
I wish I understood why it still works without it. I once slipped with a screwdriver and smashed off one of those off of a computer motherboard. But it still worked. Go figure. Also, rare genuine smile from Mr StezStix?! 2:10 :¬o
I'm not an electrical engineer, but my assumption is that the capacitor was used to pull current from the Ferrite Bead (FB) and safely distribute it to ground. It'll probably be okay for a while, but I personally would have done my best to source a similar component to make absolute certain nothing is going to break in the future.
Stupid speaker?
@wut shtoopid
I've got a stupid Sonos that makes a stupid hum if you fancy trying to fix that. You can keep it. I'm not after a free fix.
capacitor
Every video … I hear the outcome before watching it
Stupid shorted capacitor
Thank you so much for your channel. I had been stuck in my deadend QA/Triage job for a couple years and was about to quit when I first started watching your videos. You do a great job of being informative and entertaining while still being humble about your ability. It was that that reignited my interest and made me insist to my superior to let my apply to their open solder tech position. Long story short three weeks of practice at home with your videos and various youtube tutorials to keep my company and a test last week and I am now a solder tech.
This is a great story! Well done. Also well done Steve for inspiring people
Congrats
Congrats on finding passion in your work.
Late to the comment but 2 yrs on, well done mate and how is it?
You asked how people make it look so easy, but we aren't watching those people. Your persistence is inspiring! People who know exactly what they're doing aren't fun to watch. I don't know how to repair electronics, but I'm interested. I love it!
Generally with low voltage electronics, all of the grounds will be connected(which is why every cap seemed to be "shorted"). If you do find a short anywhere, one good trick to narrow things down quickly is to look for fuses(or even larger inductors) - You can use them to your advantage to isolate the positive rails of different areas on the pcb. I think of them as little diagnostic switches you can open(remove), and then re-test to see what area is still shorted. Once you find one of those that clears the short from the majority of the board, you'll be down to a much smaller area to check for the culprit.
Patience of a saint Steve and well done for sticking with it - amazing to think it seems to have been all because of that tiny capacitor - they are so small in reality!!Great fix man!!😃😃
Thanks Greg! Yeah, it was super satisying to find that little cap! Really enjoyed this one! 👍
This is exactly why right to repair is so important. One small cheap component failed and normally the whole speaker would be thrown away. Having schematic of the board would have helped to diagnose the problem.
Just for future reference, there's fairly little point in taking an MCU off. Even if it is the cause of the fault AND you can source a new replacement, you still need the program the manufacturer put in it to make it work again, which is a non-starter in most cases. Better to diagnose a faulty MCU by process of elimination and then just keep the unit for spares.
Nicely done Steve 👌
Thanks Vince, I really enjoyed this one! 👍
Good work Steve, you're getting better and better at fault diagnosis. Now word of advice, when you're looking for a short and start removing components, do not put them back until you've cleared it, why is this important? Because you can accidently introduce a short of your own by accidently making bridges etc, then it can become a real headache real quick. SO when doing this type of work and you suspect a component is the culprit and you remove it, and it turns out not to be the cause of the short just leave it out of circuit until you've cleared the original short, then resolder all the remaining components you originally removed back to the board. All in all good work mate.
Nice to have these videos..I can see how much electronics must've been going to waste just because of tiny components failing to work. Love you man 😘
thats why there should be more places where things get repaired instead of throwing away everything. An companies should start to make things again which last longer then just a year or two
@@mutosanrc1933 they were actually making things easy to assemble and disassemble.. making it easier to repair. Things weren't compact and glued too tight as well in earlier those days, I remember that old Mac PC was so nice to maintain and then things got changed to the extent that we're forced to dump them if slight damage occurr.
unfortunately it's a question of economics, these components and boards are so cheap to make these days, even if it's a tiny fault like this, it easily takes an hour of work from a skilled person and will cost you more than just replacing, that is if you can find anyone capable of doing this.
So, many years ago in Ireland my Uncle used to fix Bicycles when no-one else could. He took them apart and put them back together again - often with spare bits left over that didn't make any difference to whether the bike worked or not....................
My elderly Granny used to say: "The man who put it there in the first place was a quar fool then wasn't he ?????? "
This sort of reminds me of those days ....... LOL.
I love your videos - every single time I'm inspired to buy useless non-working junk off ebay.......... I haven't succumbed yet - but when i do - IT WILL BE YOUR FAULT AND I WILL SEND THAT ITEM TO YOU.......
Well done Steve. I’m not going to check all 399 comments because I don’t want to. I suspect Mr Sysm is a play on the word mysticism. NICE & SOLID 😊
I dont understand alot of what you're doing and saying but enough to follow along.
It's good to see old things fixed and used. I've had no end of stuff thrown away to a variety of issues over the years I'd of loved to of seen fixed and in working order again.
Great videos man
Oh my gosh, this video is amazing. Thank you so much - I'm learning a ton from watching you fault find through these. You're one of the people who inspired me to start learning about electronics and I've even made a little bit of side money from repairing them and reselling them thanks to you. You truly ignited a love for things like this that I didn't know I even had!
Your style, expertise and innovative approach are immensely entertaining.
I LOST it when you said “FB? Fuse boy” 🤣🤣🤣 great fix Steve!
Thanks again for the video, what a demonstration of perseverance!
Always amazed by your capacity to create new rhymes !
Thanks M.GN! Really enjoyed working on this one! 👍
Hi would you consider fixing 1980s Nissan electrical widgits because I think it would be really interesting and I own two. Also broken stuff is cheap and working components worth a mint.
Could not describe how I love your videos, they are just like some comfort food to me but in digital form. Love so much Steve.
Loved that Steve. Not been on your channel for ages but I was talking to Vince a week or so ago and he mentioned you.
Your channel is doing mega since Christmas (I did one of the Vince YT fixers Xmas specials)
I know nothing about electronics but I loved this video mate good fix!
I have been binging your channel for a week or so and I am seeing a theme of , Voltage regulator chips, capacitors of ever increasing smallness and flyaway ability, also usb sockets being mangled being the fault usually and also they seem to be the most annoying jobs and very fiddly, I salute your patience. During lock down I bought myself a soldering iron station and a multimeter and all the gubbins, it's all still in the box lol.
Nice work Steve. fantastic that you got it to work .
Thanks Frederick! Super satisfying this one! 😍
Nice Fix Steve, well done! I had the same problem with one of my Hikvision cameras a few month back. Those pesky surface mount caps!
Dear Stezger (did you see what I did there - did you see??!!) your timing is impeccable Sir, after spending the afternoon repairing a fence panel in my Mums garden, picking up the requisite Indian takeaway, I come home to a brand new video from you! Wonderful to watch and eat at the same time!
I don't know how you do it.... !!! Bounce from one component to another..and you fix it.. bloody brilliant!! Love you channel 🤩
Hi Steve, i'm pretty sure I've watched everything you've put out. This is a new favourite. I learnt loads from this. Yeah, this one is your best work so far. And yes, I said solid.
Enjoyed that ! Your infrared camera link, links to a humidity tester on Amazon , by the way.
When testing capacitor for shorts with a cont or diode test on a DMM , you MUST back up a short by testing the resistance because its HIGHLY likely that they aren't dead short , but just very low resistance so , find a shorted one , check the resistance , as you get closer to the bad one you will get closer to a dead short on the meter
A milliohm meter may help as well.
This was a great video Steve! I was kinda worried there for a minute. Very nice trouble shooting!
Thanks Chris, much appreciated! 👍
I love these longer types of videos. Great job, Steve!
Steve you crack me up. Excellent diagnostics and delivery. Thank you!
The "and that's moving edit" really made me giggle, thank you
Don't rely on the beep of a continuity tester to indicate a short, remember it still sounds with low resistances too. Double check with ohmmeter
So I’m very curious about the capacitor that was removed. If you take out that capacitor and now it works, do you eventually find out what capacitor is supposed to be there so that you can replace that or can you just go without? Obviously the capacitor was put in for a reason.
It's just not practical to replace without just guessing since without another board or rare to exist schematic but you don't want to swap it with something that is rated much higher. The cap is only there to add increased current stability but losing one usually won't be an issue as long as it's not on the CPU or something critical. Tiny ceramic caps job is much less crucial than large cylinder type caps.
especially being near a fuse that cap was likely just power smoothing/stability. Likely will be no issue with removing it as it's just part of good design practice but not necessarily needed for operation. it's probably something like a 0.1uF, 1uF, or 10uF.
Just go without older electronics had big electrolyte capacitors that dont fit into smartphones as an example. They are replaced with small smd capacitors and lots of them to make the value of the big old ones that dont fit. So losing 1 capacitor there is still enough left for the value. Or as someone once said if the queen has 100 guards and 1 calls in sick the queen is not in danger she still has 99 guards
Most of these boards are made as cheap as possible. If that extra condenser wasn't necessary, they would save the cost and not add it.
@@TheTinydev The component marked FB wasn't a fuse, it was a Ferrite Bead Inductor. It acts as a noise filter in low frequency applications.
Great job! You could probably email Mr. Sysm and ask him to open his working speaker and see what the capacitance is on that part :)
its been awhile I hope all is well
I don't normally listen to VOS, but this time he was on point. Love watching you fiddle with things no matter if they end up working or not. Appreciate the content Steve!
I think this is one of your best wins, well done.
Dude you deserve a million subscribers I'm definitely sticking around for that day
Incredible tenacity on this one!
I'm a new subscriber and you have already improved my life. My repairs don't always go well but I've identified my problem. I'm going to trade my multimeter in for a new multimeter. Things will go better. Thank you
First off, im not british. I am from the u.s. so im not sure what your terminology would be but i will give it an attempt. Your sense of humor is so funny. Like when you said that was the question on your lips not everyone, that would be weird. I guess its cheeky as you guys say. It is hilarious. Your cheeky sense of humor. Is that right?
This was by far the best flow for the Patreon Shoutout.
I love how you are seemingly descending into madness.
So thermal camera to the rescue - seems every tool box now needs a new tool for this type of work - Good save and much fun watching .Niccceee
Good One! I think it's amazing how quickly your channel has grown. I remember when you hit your 5K subscribers. There I was still hoping that you would soon make 10K subscribers, but it looks like you may have reached 100K soon. Keep it up!
Nice one Steve 😃👍
Thanks Plantmilk! 👍
I love what you are doing. Could you give us more scale on the things you use and the stuff you are fixing. Perhaps introduce something as scale reference like a 1cm cube of blutac?!
Aw yes some Saturday night SOLDER PRON!
cues up "Solder Boi"
Excelente video la paciencia que le pones para poder arreglar saludos desde Argentina
Great vid! How can a capacitor just be left out? Why was it there in the first place? What was its purpose?
I'm not sure exactly, but it may be some filter cap which is not critical for proper function of the device, and it can work without. It should be replaced with new capacitor with the proper capacity (if its just the filter one the value is not strictly critical, too) for normal/long term use, though... I think by the look that it's ceramic one...
It's there for current regulation. It'll still be within spec with it removed. It doesn't make too much difference.
What a repair!!!! Good find, Thermal cameras for the win!!!
You were "sad" when it wasn't the MCU.... Being someone who writes firmware for MCUs I was happy for you. As there was no way you are going to replace that STM and have it work without a donor from another unit as it would need to have the firmware that runs it flashed onto it. So seeing that the problem was something else that was probably just a failed component was the best outcome. Good stuff. I love watching your videos. You have such a good attitude and a hilarious way of going about it.
You can use tools like UrJTAG or OpenOCD to read or “snarf” the contents of flash. However, some developers take steps to protect or disable debug interfaces such as JTAG, UART and ICSP, but more often than not you can dump the flash chip directly. It does require an EE/EPROM reader/programmer and the correct chip socket or adapter (should be included).
@@vadimbellous8313 yes it's possible with all the right stuff... At least if the MCU isn't too locked down. That task is a bit out there for a channel like this though. Those tools often involve at least some knowledge of the MCU architecture. But to be fair I did say something along the lines of "not possible" so I guess I should revise that to "not practical".
WELL DONE !! The satisfaction of a fix is second to none. Great content Steve.
Man you have a charm with you when doing this and on top of that you make me smile ,i subbed !
I really enjoy your humour on these vids. Great stuff
Love how you do all type of items .. gday from Australia 🇦🇺
Fuse Boy! Lol
As a Texan, I approve of the accent.
Just for future reference;
MCU = Microcontroller. Replacing it won't work without the firmware. They come blank ,or with a default program from distributors (mouser, digikey, etc). If you're buying thousands you can discuss buying them pre-programmed from the manufacturer, a few hundred and you'd have the PCB assembler program them in circuit as part of the assembly process. You can program them yourself, but you need access to the specific "I'm a bluetooth speaker" program written (or commissioned) by LG
I own one LG PK7 Boom box +Meridian. I'm still genuinely impressed by it's build quality and of it's impressive bass output from two passive woofers. The battery lasts about 8 hours at full volume per charge. However in my opinion, the charging is the biggest drawback as it requires a dedicated 19vdc charger brick. It would have been most useful to be able to charge it with a 12vdc brick.
Another great fix.. Btw us mortals don't realise the smallness (is that a word) of the components you are dealing with. Well done Steve.
ahh the old red herring went down the rabbit hole for a while 🙂. Nice fix enjoyed it.
Way to go, Capt. Bodge.
Interesting fix.. can’t understand why it would function with a component missing? As a capacitor or even a fuse they are mounted inline no? Without them I thought the power would not get thru? Or did you bridge that connection and not show it?
Great video mate! Awesome problem solving.
Very Nice Steve. I learn more and more. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks WanJockey! Much appreciated! 👍
I have no idea what you are doing 1/2 the time but I love watching your videos =)
Very satisfying fix pal, great job :) May I steal Fuse Boy?!
Greatest band of all time.
Nice fix Steve.
Thanks to Mr Sysm for the donation.
Will you put in a guessy capacitor for S&Giggles ?
100k is close keep the good work man ✌✌
Standing ovation 👏
I wish you said I O you and apology. You’re the best! I know nothing about any of this but find your content super relaxing and educational. Thanks!!
Have you seen the flux vaporizers that can be used to find shorted components?
The song sections are my favorites!
Nice detective-ing! I wonder if Sysm could check the value on the other speaker 🤔 Guessing that cap was just doing a bit of stabilization or filtering that's not strictly necessary
Thanks AFU! Yeah, I don't think it's that important but I could definitely ask him if my one starts behaving odd. Working perfectly though and it's a great little speaker! 😊
Get yourself a Voltage Injector Tool on the shorted components to see where the heat is coming from
19:01 🤣🤣 That should be a new T-shirt slogan. “Fuse Boi”
Did you make a video of the disassembly? I did unscrew both ends but everything is inside the tube structure and I see few things sticked to the tube walls. How can I pull out the motherboard without damaging anything else? Cheers!
Maybe you should build or buy a short finder. most models work in-circuit and use low voltage, so the PN junctions don’t turn on. This means you usually don’t have to remove ICs and capacitors during testing.
Love your videos. Love the TFF ending. Hate small caps. Rock on! :D
Nice bit of troubleshooting, that cap might have been hard to nail down with the chip on so as it turns out that was probably the best approach.
I love how your laugh matches the boot up tone of the speaker
Ive been Watching a bunch of your videos lately, very good stuff I must say! You won over my sub man, keep it up!
Hello Steve!
I wanted to check the thermal cam you used in the video, but the link in the description brings to another product 🤔
I've found your channel only recently, but thoroughly enjoy watching items being fixed. I would like to ask what type of wire do you use for fixing traces?
A single strand from a multi strand wire.
FB is likely a Ferrite Bead. Will read as a short. Will act as a fuse somewhat if you try and push amps though them, but not what they are meant to do :D
This video had me cracking up the whole way through. So good. Especially liked the 'Fuse bouyyy' 😅
Well found Steve ... perhaps this is the opportunity to get yourself a short circuit finder? I can recommend the VC480+ Milliohm meter but there are plenty of others which can help narrow the search. See Learn Electronics Repair channel’s video ‘MicroOhm Meter Short Circuit Finder Review Comparison...’
Great video, Steve. My kid burst out laughing everytime the little chipmunk voice and character came on. So my childs joy was a nice bonus to this video. Thanks for the content.
New subscriber here. Looking at your "info" to see if you've linked to your little thermal camera and you have! The only issue is it's out of stock on Amazon and there's no clue if it'll be back in stock. Such a handy little gadget. What swung it for me was seeing "My desoldering gun that goes moo" as that made me laugh out loud. I was at a demoparty a few years ago, I was with a mate and we've got for the same desoldering stations that both go moo and it became a bit of a cow joke while working on boards :)
Very good work, Captain Bodge! 😁
Thanks so much for you content, it is because of you I fixed my 42" TV, I would never have attempted it, do not have the tools you have but in the end I just swapped out the small circuit board that I found was faulty, and hey presto all fixed.
Thanks so much keep the great videos great fun!! Stupid TV! 😃
Man that singing was great. Great job
Well done, though you should replace the capacitor which was connected to that ferrite bead and acted as a form of LC filter for power rail noise (protecting other components). To determine the value, look at the other unit (that the sender fixed).
Steve, can you check the link for the thermal cam? There might be an error?
Just wondering (noob myself), could you not use actual resistance measurement to maybe figure out where the short is, kinda?
The further away from the short you are, the higher the resistance of the traces on the PCB?
Watching a week later and your already 1k more subs. Fair play to you Steve your doing great. I still haven't hit that 1st 1K so know how much of a achievement it is to get these great number :)
Also that was a shock, 1 tiny component like that stopping it, also shocked it worked without it tbh haha
I wish I understood why it still works without it. I once slipped with a screwdriver and smashed off one of those off of a computer motherboard. But it still worked. Go figure.
Also, rare genuine smile from Mr StezStix?! 2:10 :¬o
I'm not an electrical engineer, but my assumption is that the capacitor was used to pull current from the Ferrite Bead (FB) and safely distribute it to ground. It'll probably be okay for a while, but I personally would have done my best to source a similar component to make absolute certain nothing is going to break in the future.
By-the-way, FB is not 'fuse' but 'ferrite bead'. It is a component used in-line with a power supply to suppress high-frequency noise.